Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse

8/12/2019 Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse

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Basic Pattern for Sari BlouseThis sari blouse pattern is with waistline darts. As it is named, it is the most basic

pattern for a sari blouse. Hence, the pattern is without waistband or any other cuts.

Even though this pattern looks similar to the basic sloper, it is slightly different in its fit.Letsstart with the measurements.

Measurements Needed:Shoulder Measurement:

Taken between two shoulder ends or nape of the neck to one shoulder end and doubled.

When neckline depth is more than 1/6th of the bust round, shoulder measurement is

taken about 3cm to 4cm less on each side.

Armscye Depth or Armhole Depth:

Taken by direct measurement or calculated from the Bust Circumference.

It is the best to measure the armscye depth directly on the body for accurate

measurement. It is measured straight from the shoulder end to about an inch below

the armpit. Armscye depth varies from 13cm 18cm (or about 5 inch 7 inch) in the

increasing order from the small sizes to the larger ones.

Armscye depth can be calculated from the bust circumference in many of the ways by

different dressmakers for different outfits.

For a sari blouse, following calculation is found to be the best.

1/6th

of Bust Circumference

Front & Back Neck depths:

Taken directly on the body or taken from an existing garment.

Bust Circumference:

Taken around the fullest part of the bust.

Waist Circumference:

Taken around the navel point.

Bust Point or Pivot Point:

Taken straight down the shoulder to the bust point.

Waist Length:

Taken from the nape of the neck to the desired length of the blouse.

Drafting & Cutting Instructions For A Basic BlouseWith Waistline DartFront Part:


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Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts Front Bodice

1. Square down centre front line and shoulder lines.
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Centre Front Line:Waist Length + 1cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam

allowance at waist

Shoulder Line: of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance

Shoulder can be taken square or sloped. This depends up on the garment to be made.

Since a sari blouse is usually of wide neck, no slope is suggested here.

2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4thof the Bust

Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam

allowance is useful for alterations.

3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth. Drawfront armhole

shapeabout 1cm inward this dropped line.

4. Square Waist Lineat the bottom of the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4thWaist

Circumference + 5cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. Give a rounded shape

at the sides.5.Dart: Take 1/12thof the Bust Circumference + 2.5cm at waist from the centre

front. Draw an upright line. Measure a point at about 3cm from the waist. (Note: This

will be the starting point of the waist, exactly under the bust part.)


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7. Draw desiredfront neckline.

8. Cut along the highlighted outline excluding the darts as shown.

Back Part:


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Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts Back Bodice

1. Square down centre back lineand shoulder lines.
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Centre Back Line: Waist Length + 1 cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam

allowance at waist

Shoulder Line: of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance

2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4thof the Bust

Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam

allowance is useful for alterations.

3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth.Draw back armhole

shape on this dropped line.

4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4thWaist

Circumference + 2cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. You may need to shape the

waistline a little to match it to the front.

5. Dart:Mark a dart on the waist line at 1/12th

of Bust Circumference + 1cm.This dart is about 7cm in length with 1cm width on each side.

6. Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waist line.

7.Draw desired back neckline. This is usually kept deeper than that in the

front.

8. Cut along the highlighted outline as shown.

Fastening:

Fastening can be given in the centre front or in the centre back. Add 1cm seam

allowancefor the attachment of hook and eye fastening strips.

We are done!

Well, I must mention the uses of this basic pattern.

Significance of Having A Basic Bodice Pattern1. This is the basicand the simplest patternfor sari blouse excluding waist bands

and extra darts. Construction is simple for the beginners.

2. Any style variation in the neckline can be tried on this pattern. For high necks,

ashoulder slopeis given.

3. This pattern serves as a base for all the types ofprincess lines. For details on

princess lines, clickhere.Just exclude the darts without a need to press the patternas givenhere.

4. Easy to add length.
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5. Back or frontfastening styles are easily adapted. This pattern is excluding the

seam allowance for fastening. 1cm seam allowance is to be added at the centre (front

or back) to give an opening.

So, did you find this DIY post useful? Your valuable feedback and suggestions help me

to understand your requirements :) After all, Tantu is for you!

Expect a detailed post on adapting this basic sari blouse pattern into a princess line

pattern soon.

Let me sign off for now!

Documents

Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse