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Bartok in Turkey
A. Adnan Saygun
The Musical Quarterly, Vol. 37, No. 1. (Jan., 1951), pp. 5-9.
Stable URL:
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BARTOK IN TURKEYBy A. ADNAN SAYGUN
0NE day in May of 1936 I talked with my friend, the Turkish
musicologist Mahmud R. GazimihAl, about the means of set-
ting forth the t rue character of the folk music of Anatolia, hi therto
unknown to folklorists. Ou r train of thought had been started by a
monograph, in Hungarian, containing a map of folklore areas in
which the Anatolian peninsula had been indicated as belonging tothe Arabo-Persian region. We decided t o publish, each of us indi-
vidually, a booklet, with the end in view of correcting the error and
showing the ties that bound Anatolia on the one hand with Asia and
on the other with Hungary, Ireland, etc.
We did so without delay, and did not neglect to send copies to
the author of the monograph mentioned. After but a few weeks, we
received a letter from our addressee informing us of Rela Bart6k's
interest in the subject. Some bits of music were included, written
out by the composer, who wished to know ~vhe th er n Anatolia one
could find songs exhibiting this turn of phrase. Thus Bart6k
became interested in the folk music of Turkey and expressed a desire
to undertake a trip through Anatolia. His only request was for a
second-class round-tr ip ticket.
Towards the end of October he arrived in Istanbul, and from the
day after his arrival we went to work in the archives of the Con-
servatory hearing one after another the folk pieces there recorded
on disks. On one occasion, he jumped up and-clearly moved-asked
me to play the song o\er again. It ~ v a sa dance tune, in 9/4 nirsak
(irregular meter), divided thus: d di d d J . But no: he drew
my attention to certain irregular arid almost im erceptible pro-
longations whi -11 modified this rhythnl, thus: d d 5 ;d d .) , or- 4
d d d J h . I had to confess that my ears, accustomed to the
regul& aksak'Fl~~thms,ad played a trick on me and that my precon-
ceived notions had prevented my observing this barely perceptible
irregularity. This strange irregularity in a piece of dance music hadcome as a surprise to him.
His meticulous mind kept him constantly alert not only to every-
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6 The Musical Quarterly
thing he heard but also to everything he saw. After a day of listening
to a great many records, we took a short walk through the streets of
Istanbul; and at one point he stopped in front of a store where hehad noticed a kind of h i t hat he had never seen before. We bought
some. I can still see him looking at it as we walked along, and then
stopping-as he often did when he had something important to say-
to ask me if we had any songs with texts describing this fruit. Thus
a new subject of conversation was broached-fruit and folk music.
How could I ever forget that, other example of his valiant and
keen spirit which, like a child's, was interested in everything, asking
questions and then hastening to make comparisons: how often in
Adana we ran after some wagon covered with rustic designs! He was
greatly interested not only in these designs but also in the way the
horses were hitched, and the various kinds of bells that were custo-
marily attached to them. Running thus from one wagon to another
was great sport; and often, leaving the wagons, we would stop before
the caravans of camels, to capture and savor the strange rhythm and
harmony of their bells.t t
JC
At Ankara, where he had given three lectures on folk music
(interestingly enough, the first in French, the second in German, and
the third in Hungarian) and three concerts, we had been able to
collect some songs. Perhaps it might be well to say a few words about
his manner of working which, in my opinion, deserves to be known
by folklorists. Bart6k had assigned to me the phonetic transcription
of the text; I took down this text only during the singing. For his
part, he tried to write down as exactly as possible the melody itself.If I happened to finish with the text before he had completed his
notation of the melody, I was to set to work writing down the melody
also, for later comparison with his version. Of course, I jotted down
on my piece of paper the necessary data about the singer, the place
where the song was collected, etc.
Using a metronome, moreover, we would indicate the tempo at
the beginning of each song; and with a pitch-pipe we would verify
and note the register of the voice. In the course of the repetition of
the melody, we constantly tried to indicate the variants that pre-
sented themselves and I was to pay special attention to the changes
that might occur in the course of the repetition of the text.
Obviously, it was not easy to write all this down at one time. But
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Bart6k in Mersin, Turkey, 1936
Bart6k and the author (in light felt hat) in the district ofToprak Kale, on the road to the nomadic tribes in
the mountains
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Bart6k on M ou nt Tiiys iiz
Bar t6k w i t h members of th e nomadic t r ibe of Ku marl i ,distr ict of Osmaniye
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7art6k in Turkey
after this first part of the work had been completed, there remained
for us only the task of turning on the old Edison recording machine,
to get the song down on the wax cylinder. I was not at all pleasedwith this piece of apparatus, which had many inconvenient features.
It could not, for example, record clearly both the voice and the
accompanying instrument at the same time. Truly it was also annoy-
ing to Bart6k. But he preferred it to the other machines, which
needed either to be plugged into an electric system or to be accom-
panied by heavy storage batteries.
Near Adana, where we went in hopes of finding some nomad
tribes, the Master did not seem to me completely satisfied despite the
good harvest of songs we were gathering there. As we were coming
into one of the villages he told me why: he particularly wanted to
record some songs that were sung by women. This presented quite
a problem, for Moslem women would not easily consent to sing,
especially in the presence of a stranger. I did all I could to persuade
these country folk to produce a woman-whether a lively young girl
or an aged lady-to sing for us; but I was unsuccessful. They had
plenty of time to observe us after our arrival. Surely they could not
impute evil intentions to us; we did not seem to be bad fellows.
Certainly they could trust us. Finally, our host promised me that
after dinner his wife and his daughter would sing. I hastened to tell
Bart6k the good news, which he received with childlike joy. We
waited impatiently for the dinner hour. Finally it was announced.
After dinner, we sat back with our cups of good Turkish coffee,which had been roasted, ground, and brewed right there and which
the Master liked so much. Suddenly a person among the little group
of observers who had accompanied us on this trip, addressing our
host, blurted out, "Well, where are the women?" I can still feel the
blood rush to my face. At that moment, a glacial silence invaded
the room, where there were about fifteen of us, including the others
who had been invited. This was one of the most insulting things
that could be said to a Turkish peasant. Our host glanced with flash-
ing eyes at the one who committed this piece of folly. No one moved.
And Bartbk, though he did not understand a word, was fully aware
that something serious was happening: he remained puzzled, his
cup of coffee in his hand, his eyes fixed on me. I tried to open a
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The Musical Quarterly
conversation (insignificant, I well knew) by speaking of the village
mill we had visited that afternoon. After that, we had to take our
leave. The next morning, at dawn, we left-the two of us-withoutsaying anything to anyone.
In a neighboring village we had the good fortune of finding two
musicians, one of whom played the zurna, a kind of rustic oboe with
piercing tone, and the other the davul, a species of primitive big
drum. This was the first time Bart6k had seen these instruments.
That evening, we set up our equipment in a schoolroom, full of
country people, our inquisitive spectators. Seven oil lamps spread a
pale and wavering light in the room. As usual, before recording we
were to write down the melody of the zurna and the rhythm of the
davul. The musicians began to play, and-something strange re-
sulted: the blows that the old fellow gave to his instrument made the
whole building shake. The panes of glass in the windows never
stopped making their extraordinarily droll answers to the powerful
drum-beats. The piercing cry of the zurna made the air of the room
most vibrant, producing a deafening and bizarre roar. And to crown
the situation, as each blow of the percussion instrument jarred both
the oil and the wicks, the light of the seven lamps dimmed in
cadence, almost going out, and then in a moment coming back on
again most brilliantly, so that there was a peculiar and constant
alternation of light and darkness in the room. I can still see Bartbk,
with a start, dropping his pencil and paper, signalling me to con-
tinue, and carrying his hands to his ears. H e remained thus, his ears
tensely stopped, to the end of the performance. This posture that
he assumed greatly amused the country people, who did not cease
laughing. Truly it amused us too.Bart6k had set to work for some time studying the Turkish
language. The words common to the two languages repeatedly be-
came the subject of our conversation. Having encountered consider-
able difficulties in convincing not only the women to sing but also
the men, whether young or old (for they had a vague apprehension
before a stranger who did not speak their language), I proposed to
the Master that we make up a sentence that would be almost the
same in Hungarian and Turkish. Then whenever we again met
some people who were intimidated by the presence of a stranger, I
would take over and give them a litt le talk about the history of the
two peoples, in which I would say that the Hungarians were only
Turks who had settled somewhere else, that they always had spoken
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9artok in Turkey
Turkish, but that evidently in the course of the centuries their
accent had become more or less different. After that I would ask the
composer to repeat the sentence we concocted. Bart6k would repeatit readily with an anxious smile barely visible on his lips. Of course,
everyone understood it, and after several disquisitions on this sub-
ject we quietly set to work. Here is the sentence:
In Hungarian: Pa mu k tar l dn soh drpa, alnza, teve , sdtor , bal ta, csizma, kicsi
hecske van .
In Turkish: P a m u k t ar la s inda c ok a r pa , a l m a , de v e , ~ a d i r , a lt a, g iz m e,
kiiciik k e ~ iar.
(Translation: In the cotton field are much barley and many apples, camels,
tents, axes, boots, and young goats.)
We returned, first to Ankara, then to Istanbul, where he took the
train for Budapest. The trip had convinced him of the close relation-
ship between Turkish and Hungarian folk music. We decided to
collaborate on these songs and publish them together. From Buda-
pest he sent me copies of some of the wax cylinders I had transcribed.
I sent him the translation of the texts.
In 1937 he was expecting me in Budapest. But, alas-the political
situation was daily becoming more grave. I had my anxieties; he had
his. One day I received a typewritten letter from him-which sur-
prised me, since he had always been accustomed to write by hand. It
was after the Anschlzlss. Bart6k told me in his letter that since Vienna
was being occupied by the Nazis he could no longer maintain con-
tact with his publisher. On the other hand, he saw clearly that he
could no longer live in Hungary. He asked me if I could find a
position for him in Turkey that would permit him to establish per-
manent residence there. We could then work together advantageously
on the study of the folk music of Turkey which, he said, was of lively
interest to him. He would be content with a very small salary. Alas,
again! I was not able to obtain anything for him. Some foreign
musician who had been given the job of organizing musical educa-
tion in Turkey stood in the way. In leaving Hungary, accordingly,
he went to find his home in the United States, whence he was not toreturn again to the Old World.