Bangles

‘...They wear on their arms, above the elbow, rich armlets two inches wide, enriched on the

surface with stones, and having small bunches of pearls depending from them. At their wrists are

very rich bracelets, or bands of pearls, which usually go round nine or twelve times...’

from Storia do Mogor by Niccolao Manucci, (1638–1717)

This Italian traveller and writer, worked at the Moghul court and his first-hand knowledge led to

his famously detailed written account “Storia do Mogor”, an extensive eye witness testimony of

Moghul history and life.

Infinitely varied in design, material and decoration, the bangle is one of the primary ornaments

of traditional Indian jewellery and a significant indication to the wearer’s marital status. Its

endless diversity in shape and structure, inspired us to compose this publication, dedicated to

this powerful ornament.

3

Baju BandNorth India, Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow, late 18th century

Rigid gold armlet (BAJU BAND) consisting of double hexagonal cylinders, complemented

with pliable floral design hinges, kundan set with diamonds, at both ends. Both cylinders

have MAKARA head finials, kundan set with diamonds on the top and along the sides against

a SABZ ZAMIN (green) translucent enameled ground.

54

NaugariIndia, Rajasthan, mid 20th century

Pair of gold bracelets, NAUGARI, are ornamented with bunched hollow balls (GAJRE), rigidly

fixed to the main body by threading a wire through their attached integral loops. This work is

called MOTI KE GAJRE KAM; the effect of bunching is GUCHCHEDAR.

76

Baju BandIndia, Punjab, Lahore, 19th century

A gold BAJU BAND kundan set with foiled rock crystals, embellishes with carved and gold

floral pattern. The reverse of the pendant is plain gold.

98

Baju BandsNorth India, circa 1900

A pair of gold, open worked BAJU BANDS, the front kundan set with the classic Hindu planetal

gemstone arrangement NAVA RATNA, a central ruby, rounded by cat’s eye, topaz, coral,

hyacinth, sapphire, pearl, diamond and emerald. The reverse of each BAJU BAND is decorated

with blue enamel on a green ground, depicting a floral design.

1110

NaugariIndia, Rajasthan, early 20th century

The gold bracelet, NAUGARI, consists of nine half-cylindrical hinged sections,

set with emeralds.

1312

Baju BandsIndia, Bikaner, 19th century

Pair of gold armlets, BAJU BANDS, set with parab cut saphires. The reverse is decorated

with multicolored enamel, depicting birds and flowers.

1514

KadaIndia, Rajasthan, Jaipur, 18th century

Pair of gold enameled bangles, KADA, with two elephant-heads meeting face to face

(HATHI-KA-KARA). Red enamel on the outside and the inside shows red birds and flowers

on a white ground (SAFED CHALWAN).

1716

BalaiSouth India, Tamil Nadu, 20th century

A variety of plain gold bangles with different hammered patterns: points (GOKHRI),

twisted rope (GATHI) and wish fulfilling vine (KALPALATA).

1918

ChurinNorth India, Rajasthan, Jaipur, early 20th century

A pair of gold bangles, CHURIN, of which the outer side is decorated with dark blue, Nil Zamin

enamel, kundan set with white sapphire in gold collets, shaped like leaf and flower buds. The

inside is decorated in a floral pattern with SAFED CHALWAN enamel, red and green enamel on

a white ground.

2120

Baju BandsNorth India, Rajasthan, Bikaner, circa 1900

Pair of gold armlets, BAJU BANDS, kundan set with irregular size flat cut diamonds. The reverse

is enameled in the champlevé technique with red and blue flowers, green leaves forming

arabesques with red, green, gold and blue enameled birds on a white opaque enamel ground,

known as SAFED CHALWAN.

2322

KadaIndia, Bikaner, 19th century

A pair of open worked gold KADA, bangles, kundan set with white and blue sapphires. The rim

is decorated with a webbing of tight knitted pearls, MOTI JALI. These bangles are an example of

one of many India wedding ornaments.

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www.vangelderjewellery.com