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PlaneTex Covering Instructions The opportunity to provide, you our customer, with this manual came about after we built a couple of “Test

Wing” to physically check some CAD drawn Laser Cut wing ribs. After confirming the fit of the ribs, we were

left with these two partially built test wing that we had no further use for. Therefore, instead of taking these

straight to the dumpster, sadly the little wings final destination, we decided to finish them out to the covering

stage and use them to demonstrate how to cover an actual wing using PlaneTex fabric. On one wing, we will be

using PlaneTex and Consolidated Aircraft Coatings mineral based, “Poly-Tak” adhesive and “Poly-Brush”

Filler / Primer. And on the other wing we will again be using PlaneTex fabric but this time we’ll be using

“Stewart Systems” water based “Eko Bond” adhesive and “Eko Fill” Filler / Primer.

Regardless of which system you use some basic tools will be required for covering a model airplane. First and

foremost is a pair of sharp, high quality, scissors, a Hobby Knife and several #11 blades, maybe some single

edge razor blades too, and an assortment of inexpensive paint brushes.

Please understand these instructions have been written to point out the different features and

techniques of using Plane-Tex to cover a model airplane. We assume that you have

successfully covered other models in the past. If not, there are plenty of very helpful “How To”

videos on the internet we recommend watching. Also, understand that with most everything

involved with this hobby, builders soon develop their own way of doing things including

covering! This is just the way we do it here at Balsa USA!

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First Wing:

“Consolidated Aircraft Coatings”

Mineral Based, “Poly-Tak” adhesive and “Poly-

Brush” Filler / Primer

Note 1: You’re really going to need a “Well

Ventilated Space” for this stuff and we aren’t

kidding, because it’s going to smell as if you were

covering an airplane or something!

Note 2: Notice the “Sub Sheeting” installed

between the two root ribs and below the cap strips

of these wing panels. This Sub Sheeting performs

two functions. First, it stiffens and reinforces the

wing root preventing the covering material from

pulling in and distorting the root ribs. In addition,

the second thing it does is gives the wing the same

over all “open structure” look provided by the cap

strips on the rest of the wing ribs.

Step 1: Sand the framework nice and smooth, and

thoroughly dust it off. Dusting is important for

adhesion and a good smooth finish. Also, make

sure your work area is clean and relatively dust free.

See Photo C 1.

Step 2: Using a disposable paintbrush, paint the

perimeter of the wing with “Poly-Tak” adhesive.

You want to secure the covering all the way around

the frame, but allow it to slide over and shrink down

evenly on the open areas of the wing. Don’t paint

the leading edge sheeting, the cap strips, or anything

else in the open area of the wing frame. (The Filler

/ Primer will take care of that later.)

However, do paint the aileron spar, the corners, and

the ribs at either end of the aileron cutout.

See Photo C 2.

Step 3: Give it an hour or so to dry then apply a

second coat. In addition, don’t sand it, you’d be

sanding off the glue!

Note: This is where some builders get into trouble

with this stuff. For it to work properly it MUST be

allowed to DRY THOROUGHLY before ironing

on the fabric. We recommend overnight for the best

results.

A word about GRAIN

Everything in the world has “grain” to it even

PlaneTex! With PlaneTex, the grain runs the Long

Ways with the frayed edges of the fabric. For the

most part that’s the way you want it to run on a

model, span wise from root to tip on a wing, and

length wise from nose to tail on a fuselage.

Step 4: As with most wings, you want to cover the

bottom first! Pay attention to the grain (it runs span

wise) and cut a piece of PlaneTex at least 1-1/2 to 2

inches larger then the wing frame all the way

around so you’ll have something to pull on.

See Photo C 3.

Step 5: Get your Covering (sealing) Iron out, set it

for about 60%, and let it heat up. Now it’s like

covering with any other iron covering. Tack down

the corners, and remember PlaneTex is a “Heat

Shrink” covering, pull in pretty smooth but don’t

pull it very tight. Then iron it down to first the

wing root, then the leading and trailing edges.

Leave the tip alone for now.

See Photo C 4.

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Step 6: With the fabric ironed down as described in

the previous step, start pulling and ironing it down,

around the wing tip bow.

See Photo C 5.

Step 7: After you have ironed the fabric down

around the perimeter turn the wing over, bring the

fabric around, and iron it down to the top.

With PlaneTex, these scallops can be done with

one piece each, not in several little snipes as with

other covering materials!

Here’s a tip when covering difficult areas (like

scallops) after ironing the fabric down, remove your

iron, but hold the fabric in place allowing it to cool

and the glue to “set” before letting it go.

See Photo C 6.

Step 8: Do the same with the aileron spar and tip

See Photo C 7.

Step 9: Bring the PlaneTex around the leading

edge as you would any other covering, iron it down,

and trim off the excess. Iron the covering down to

the wing root and trim off the excess as well.

DO NOT shrink it up, you’ll warp the wing for

sure!

See Photo C 8.

Step 10: Using “Poly-Tak” paint the perimeter

again making sure you get the covered areas as well

as the wood. Remember PlaneTex is just raw fabric

so “No gluey, No sticky” make sure the areas to be

glued are all thoroughly coated. Again let it dries

overnight! Don’t worry about the sheeted areas or

cap strips, the Filler / Primer will securely stick the

PlaneTex down to all that later.

Step 11: Cut another piece of PlaneTex for the top

of the wing, leaving excess for pulling. You don’t

have to worry about the top or bottom of the fabric

like you do with other coverings with PlaneTex

they’re both the same!

Step 12: With the fabric lying smooth over the top

of the wing tack down the corners and iron down

the perimeter, as you did the bottom. Then pull and

iron the fabric down around the tip bow.

See Photo C 9.

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Step 13: Iron the PlaneTex down to the wing root

and trim off the excess. Flip the wing over, bring

the covering around the tip bow, aileron spar,

leading and trailing edges, iron down and trim off

the excess.

See Photo C 10.

Step 14: Now comes the fun part. Shrink it up, but

shrink smarter, not harder! To avoid the warping

the wing shrink a little on the top, a little on the

bottom, a little on the left, a little on the right. Use

your iron to avoid softening the glue and pulling in

a seam (if that happens it’s a disaster). Stay away

from the “heat gun” it blows hot air all over the

place and can easily soften a seam (disaster)! Make

sure you carefully run your iron over the entire

wing.

Step 15: Now you need the “Poly-Brush” Filler /

Primer. This stuff is rather thin, like 50/50 dope for

you old schooler’s out there, and it needs to be kept

stirred up while you use it! Lay out your stir sticks,

paintbrush, and can of Poly-Brush.

See Photo C 11.

Step 16: Open up the Poly-Brush, IT’S PINK!!

Yeah, so you can see where you already painted it!

Paint the wing panel, don’t put it on so heavily it

runs clean through the fabric, or so lightly that it

doesn’t fill in the weave of the fabric. Every couple

of times you dip your brush stir up the Poly-Brush

with your stir stick, keep going till you have a good

even coat over the entire wing.

See Photo C 12.

Step 17: Inspect your work! Look for, or maybe

better feel for, rough spots, frayed areas, rough

seems, Poly-Tak dribbles, runs, and any other

blemishes. Sand down the problem spots with fine

sand paper and give then another coat of Poly-

Brush. DO NOT sand through the PlaneTex this is

especially important on sharp corners. When what

you’re sanding starts to turn “white” STOP you’ve

gone through the Poly-Brush and into the PlaneTex!

Repeat the operation until you have a nice smooth

seamless covering job!

That’s about it!

This wing is now ready for just about any kind of

paint you want to use from Latex to Automotive

paint. In addition, you’ll notice a PlaneTex

covering job is pretty darn permanent and

maintenance free, it’s far less likely to bubble up or

loosen up despite changing in temperature and

weather conditions than any iron on covering.

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Second Wing:

“Stewart Systems”

Water Based “Eko Bond” Adhesive and “Eko Fill”

Filler / Primer

Note 1: While the level of ventilation required is

nowhere near as critical with the Stewart System

stuff as it is with Poly-Tak and Poly-Brush, I would

not recommend using it in a sealed compartment!

Note 2: This is a completely different wing

although it was built the same as the first wing. All

construction notes on the previous wing structure

apply to this wing as well.

Note 3: Most of the following steps are the same,

and apply to most any covering system used for a

model airplanes, so some of the preparatory steps

will only be briefly covered in these instructions.

Step 1: Sand the framework nice and smooth, and

thoroughly dust it off. Again, this is important, and

make sure your work area is clean and relatively

dust free.

See Photo S 1.

Step 2: Using Stewart System “Eko Bond” paint

the perimeter of the wing as described earlier.

See Photo S 2.

Step 3: This stuff works a good bit faster then the

Consolidated stuff and can be given a second coat

after only a few minutes. And the drying time is

only a couple of hours before you can apply the

fabric.

Step 4: Again start with the bottom, pay attention

to the grain (run it span wise) and cut a piece of

PlaneTex at least 1-1/2 to 2 inches larger then the

wing frame, so you’ll have something to pull on.

See Photo S 3.

Step 5: Set your iron for around 70% you should

have it hot enough to stick the PlaneTex down

good! Tack down the corners, then iron the

perimeter down, then the wing tip, and trim off the

excess.

See Photo S 4.

Step 6: Now you’ll have to paint the perimeter

again concentrating on the areas you already

covered, and let it dry for a few minutes.

Step 7: Cut one more PlaneTex for the top of the

wing, and cover it like normal.

See Photo S 5.

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Step 8: Give the perimeter one more coat of Eko

Bond brushing it down through the fabric. One of

those disposable “Epoxy Brushes” with the bristles

cut short is good for this. Wipe off the excess glue

with paper towels. Let this all dry for a few hours.

See Photo S 6.

Step 9: Shrink up the PlaneTex nice and tight

again, work evenly to prevent warps.

Step 10: Get your Eko-Fill, this stuff needs to be

well stirred, not shaken! Use a stir stick and mix it

up good. Then brush it on with a foam brush, again

brush it on thick enough to fill the weave of the

fabric, but not so much that it runs through.

See Photo S 7.

Note: Uh, Oh, Boss came in and said he wanted

this wing taken to the max with a fine automotive

finish! I said Aye, Aye Sir! More Eko-Fill and

sanding will be required.

Step 11: Allow the Eko-Fill to dry, a couple of

hours should do it, but overnight is best. Then sand

the seams and rough spots, brush on more Eko-Fill

and repeat. After sanding the second coat your

wing should look something like the photo. The

white areas are where we sanded down TO the

PlaneTex but NOT through it, when it starts to turn

white STOP SANDING, sand somewhere else!

See Photo S 8.

Step 12: After sanding, we elected to spray the

next couple of coats, and got out the spray painting

equipment. Notice the Eko-Fill was “strained”

through a filter going into the gun, a good idea!

See Photo S 9.

Note: For me, there was a learning curve to this,

I’d never used that gun before and I’d never sprayed

Eko-Fill before either, but I’m a professional so

what could possibly go wrong?! Well I sprayed it

on way to thick and runny. (More sanding will be

required.) Be careful spraying this it’s surprisingly

easy to lay it on too thick and run it!

Step 13: After a couple more coats of Eko-Bond

and some “Green Glazing Putty” (Green Putty is

basically very thick Primer) available from any

automotive store that handles car paint, and more

sanding the wing panel is ready for color paint.

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Ok, we covered a couple of “test” wing panels here that are NOT parts to any actual model, in fact those two

wings were all we had to work with at the time. On an actual model there would be many other parts requiring

covering. So while some parts are drying “overnight” other parts can be painted with adhesive. I stand by the

products being allowed to dry overnight before proceeding, however after applying the adhesive there’s no need

to rush. There are no ill effects if painted parts are left for days, weeks, or even months before ironing on the

PlaneTex!

While these instructions only covered, covering wings, the same principles should be applied to covering

fuselage, tail groups, control surfaces, or any other parts that require covering.

Repairing damaged covering on a PlaneTex covered model,

Using Either Poly-Tak and Poly-Brush or Stewart Systems Eko Bond and Eko Fill

Now I know this does not apply to any of Balsa USA’s customers or Balsa USA pilots because none of us

have ever banged up a model airplane, right? One of these wings were given a quick “spray can” finish (there

has to be a limit on how much time and money we’re going to put into a couple of throw away wings).

However, regardless of finish the following still apply, and hey a quick “rattle can” finish if done correctly can

be one of the lightest finishes you can put on a model airplane. However, on the off chance that a PlaneTex

covered model does get damaged PlaneTex can be rather easily repaired.

Step 1: Uh, Oh, DENTS!

See Photo R 1.

Step 2: Dents that didn’t penetrate the covering can

be removed by carefully reheating the area. To

avoid unnecessary damage to the finish lay a soft

cloth or paper towel over the area to be repaired.

Bring the your iron heat up gradually, hold the cloth

or paper towel in place and gently run your iron

over top to remove the dents.

See Photo R 2.

Step 3: Small punctures can easily be repaired by

first thoroughly cleaning the area around the

damage removing any oil, exhaust residue, dust and

dirt.

Step 4: We have two holes to patch and cut two

PlaneTex patches about one-half to three quarters of

an inch bigger then the damage area.

See Photo R 3.

Step 5: Using 320-grit sandpaper sand the area

around the damage. Sand down to the PlaneTex but

NOT through it!

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Step 6: Lay your patch or patches over the holes

Using Poly-Brush or Eko Bond (remember, stir it,

and don’t shake it). Brush it through the PlaneTex,

and fill the weave of the patch.

See Photo R 9.

Step 7: Sand the patched areas with 320 grit, work

your way down finer grit as desired. You’ll likely

need additional coats of Poly-Brush and sanding.

Then give the repaired area a couple of coats of

“Sand-able Automotive Primer” compatible with

your finish, sanding between coats. You may want

to spray or brush this on depending on the size and

location of the repairs. This is going to take

multiple applications of Primer and lots and lots of

sanding!

See Photo R 6.

Step 8: After several more coats of Primer, a little

bit of “Green Glazing Putty”, and a whole lot more

sanding the wing is looking pretty good!

Remember all this Primer and Filler is nothing but

added weight, sand off as much as you can leaving

it only in the low or bad spots.

See Photo R 7.

Step 9: After a final coat of Primer to get an even

base color, and a light sanding the wing was given a

couple more color coats. And you can hardly see

the repaired areas

See Photo R8.

Which system is best?

Which would I use on one of my next personal

model?

In my opinion, both systems are excellent, easy to

work with, render outstanding results, and PlaneTex

is a truly FANTASTIC covering material!

For me the answer of which system would I use,

would most likely be dependent on the time of year.

If it was winter, and below freezing outside I’d go

with the water based Stewart Systems, which I

could use in my HEATED shop without the fear of

being overcome by fumes!

Note: It’s IMPORTANT that both, “Eko Bond” n

or “Eko Fill” Not be allowed to Freeze. Once

frozen these products CAN NOT be thawed back

out and used again. They must be stored in an

environment that is always above freezing!

However, if it was summer time and nice and

sunny outside I think I’d go with the Consolidated

Aircraft Coatings Poly-Tak and Poly Brush. We

recommend working outside with this, where

there’s always plenty of fresh air! Of course it

would also depend greatly on which system I could

scrounge off the company! Working at Balsa USA

does have it’s PERKS, you know!!

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