Bali Expat – Issue 34 – Wildlife

BALI EXPAT ◆ 23rd October – 5th November 2013 1

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership | 34th Edition | 23rd October – 5th November 2013 FREE COPY Rp.

EGRETS TAKING FLIGHT IN NUSA DUA BY LIA BRAND

23rd October – 5th November 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT 2

34th Edition | 23rd October – 5th November 2013

Editor in ChiefAngela [email protected]

Editorial AssistantGabriella [email protected]

ManagementEdo Frese [email protected] AdvertisingErna [email protected]

DistributionDian [email protected]

GraphicsFrederick [email protected]

Finance & AdminPertiwi Gianto [email protected] [email protected] ContributorsStephanie BrookesBill DaltonKaren DavisSeamus McElroyFrancesco RicciardiEamonn SadlerGrace SusetyoPaul V. Walters

Editorial [email protected]

Circulation [email protected]

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Bali Expat is published bi-weekly by PT. Koleksi Klasik. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors, ommisions, or complaints arising there from. No parts of this publication can be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically without permission of the publisher. All trademarks, logos, brands and designs are copyright and fully reserved by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia.

Published byPT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIAJl. Kemang Raya No. 29AKemang, Jakarta — IndonesiaTel: 021 7179 4550 ( Jakarta) 0361 935 1250 (Bali)Fax: 021 7179 4546Office hours: 09.00 – 17.00 Monday – Friday

in this 34th issue:

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T his issue’s theme is ‘Wildlife’, hence the beautiful cover photo of egrets taking flight in Nusa Dua

by none other than Lia Brand; the talented wildlife photographer with the bazooka lens. Bali is abundant with wildlife that you would never expect to see, including the stunning egrets in the South, as well as deer and the black monkey in the North.

However, species like the Bali tiger have been wiped out, the last of its kind shot circa 1937, and other animals like the Bali starling, endemic to the island of Bali, are on the endangered species list. Thanks to Friends of National Parks Foundation, the neighbouring islands of Nusa Penida, Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Lembongan have become an ‘unofficial’ bird sanctuary for our blue-eyed feathery friends also known as the Bali Myna.

For over 400 million years, this planet’s oceans have been inhabited by sharks, predating dinosaurs and surviving their extinction, yet today it is human kind that are wiping out the population of these magnificent and misunderstood (much thanks to Jaws the movie) sea creatures. Indonesia is home to an estimated 250 species of sharks, however it is the world’s top culprit for their demise, with an estimation of over 110,000 tonnes killed a year by shark finning; a cruel practice which involves throwing a still-breathing shark overboard with its fins cut off, left to bleed to death. This staggering number will eventually ruin the balance of the ocean’s ecosystems, with sharks being apex predators, not to mention wipe out

the millions of dollars of income Indonesia earns from tourists who travel far and wide to dive with and catch a glimpse of these disappearing species.

There is always hope. Conservation projects are popping up everywhere, set up by individuals who care about our species’ destructive impact on this planet and the other creatures we share it with. Bali Sharks has created a conservation nursery in South Bali, where young black and white tip reef sharks are housed in an open water floating island. Visitors can experience an up-close and personal encounter with the sharks until they are ready to be released into the wild. In their first 12 months they were able to save and release 43 sharks. Bali Sharks offers an alternative life for fishermen who used to kill sharks for a living, now getting paid to rescue them. It is projects like these that are worth supporting and the individuals behind these who won’t quit trying to make a difference until their last breath.

I will end with a quote from Steve Jobs, may he rest in peace, and hope that you will find your own way to make a change in today’s world.

“…the ones who are crazy enough to think that they can change the world, are the ones who do.”

Thanks for listening,Angela Richardson

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Dead in the Water .......................................................................................... 3Sea Turtles: The Selayar Marine Conservation Challenge .......................... 4Finding Nemo (in Bali) .................................................................................. 6Meet the Expat: Tim Husband — Zoo Curator .............................................. 8Faces of Bali: Wayan The Ubud Painter ........................................................ 9UWRF 2013: Through Darkness to Light ...................................................... 10Monkey Business ......................................................................................... 12Light Entertainment: Funny for All the Wrong Reasons ............................ 13Events + Classifieds ................................................................................ 14–15


Seamus McElroySeamus McElroy is an environmental consultant and University lecturer based in Bali.

observations

I t was a long wait. Six years between Intergovernmental Panel

on Climate Change(IPCC) reports on the state of our planeti . This time the scientists wanted to be sure they had it rightii. Ninety seven percent right to be sureiii.

For what happens when you get the science wrong? You have to wait a generation for people to start to trust you again. And when it comes to climate change and the impacts on our global warming that is just too long. We are living on borrowed time already.

I am a parent and teacherWhen does our generation hand over responsibility for the governorship of our home to our kids? When they are 10? Too young. When 20 perhaps? But by 30, you are now in undisputed territory. And if you and I have messed it up — our stewardship of our and our kids’ home — then you’d better have a good answer for them because otherwise they will never trust us again!

“What did you do in the war, Daddy?” This was a cry for two, nay, three recent generations. It was like a badge for our grandparents to wear with pride. And it doesn’t matter

today whether they were from the so-called victorious or the loser nations. Because the loser nations of Japan and Germany, their people had more resolve than ever to show how really great they were and are as a race, a people, and a society, today.

Great War, Second World War — what was all that about? Propaganda for both sides. Yes, part of it, was done by both sides, for sure.

That was for them then. Over a period of four long years, and in each time period, the issue was of gargantuan importance.

Our survival? So, too, for us now.

What did you do to save the planet today, Daddy?“Not much” I fear this current generation will be able to claimiv.Why? Simply because of our doubts, our scepticism! Where is the enemy? Where is the battle exactly?

It’s the joy of the young to throw scorn on their parents’ views, the views of their generation.

Passing the baton to the next generation means that you have not only made them aware there is a problem, but that our generation was unwilling or unable to solve it for them. Too big and irrelevant for us to care about, even.

I am a scientist. It was my upbringing. Not because of my parents. Simply because as a child I saw the mysteries of the undersea world displayed for the first time to the world by Jacques Cousteau.

The first DVD my daughter saw was Finding Nemo. What an amazing story and a different view of the world. One shark says, “Fish is food.” Right on! That’s right! How else can a shark live?

But then the bigger rubbery looking shark says, “Fish are friends.” What do you do? It’s a turn up for the books for sure.

Today I went to see my doctor about an unusual thing. It had been monitored for a while. It had gotten big. But then when I changed the place I live, the

environment it had flourished in, it also changed, become less aggressive, completely less ghastly and debilitating. Restoring what I value in my life; my kids and my health.

So, too, for our planet.

Cleanliness, safety, taking care of our planet, not being invaded by a mass of foreign bodies, substances, catastrophes I have no idea about. I find it abhorrent because I have no idea where it is it thinks it comes from.

WildlifeIn the urban jungle, do you approach a black man with a Rastafarian hat, hair, demeanour who looks trampish and say, “What’s the best way to Pelham?”

My answer is simple. Of course you do not.

Mobile phone in hand connects you to Facebook and Twitter, yet you still crave for human contact. Being part of your species really matters to you. After all, there has to be someone who can understand you on the other end of the phone, no?

So therein lies the future of our planet. You cannot live on it unless you talk to the other people on it, too.

Messed it upHey mate. You played your part, too!

So guys and girls, it’s simple. Live your life like a member of your clan. Never interact with anyone of a different culture or lifestyle, let alone a different world. Dead we are then. Not for now only, but forever!

Masters of our own UniverseYou do not today know what tomorrow brings.

That’s the usually accepted wisdom. It’s not productive to question everything. So, the planner in you goes haywire in your head! Did something similar also happen in the past? Like 550 million years ago?

But that was then. And this is now. Then, there was real climate change, a naturally occurring sequence of events. Now, our climate change is largely man-made, so potentially reversible. We are using too much carbon and it is getting us into trouble when it gets into the upper atmosphere or our deep oceans. Both contribute to the green house effect of unnecessarily warming our planet.

Our life support systems then become at risk sometimes. We humans are really messing up the world we live on. Why? Screw the pandas. Screw the large whales. We are really screwing up the world we live on. Where to now?

Great questionHome.

What is there at home? More importantly, what is it that you need from your home exactly?

Interaction, sociable people. Certainly not people tied to their mobile phone in public places.

Rude? No. Rather, completely antisocial. If you want your world to survive, accept and embrace an alternative. What you or I have to offer is so much small beer. But offer it we must – for the sake of the planet; your planet, too, you know. ■

by Seamus McElroy

Dead in the Water

iIntergovernmental Panel on Climate Change – IPCC – reported in October. Next reports are out for a mechanism to fight climate change. ii“Last time was a little embarrassing! We kicked the bucket to hell and back again”.iiiPoll of British public about the validity of the findings.ivOne of only a very few exceptions to this is Britain. It has a legal goal to reduce its carbon footprint by 80% by 2050. And it is doing more than most in this field – having reduced its carbon footprint by 25-26% in 2012 since 1990, the benchmark used.


conserving wildlife

I t was a fine day in Benteng, Selayar. The 100-kilometre long island just off the

southern coast of Bira, South Sulawesi, is known to some as a diver’s haven and marine biodiversity hotspot, but in a different way from Bali, Lombok, or Raja Ampat.

The streets of Selayar parade rustic wooden houses elevated on stilts, painted in bright colours. The air is mostly warm with the sunshine, but fresh and breezy like the sea. The landscapes flaunt the unpretentious sights of fishermen’s boats by serene beaches and friendly community hubs; wet markets, warungs, multifunctional soccer fields and dive centres.

One of the highlights of this trip was visiting Kampung Penyu in Desa Barugaiya, Bontomanai. Kampung Penyu, which covers about a kilometre of the west coast of Dusun Tulang, is laced with mangroves and swamps that lead to this black sand beach with coconut groves and the blue waters of the Flores Sea.

In the sand is this fenced area with blue tags on it. It is the grounds on which turtle eggs are incubated, marked with the expected hatching date, number of eggs, and the name of the person who has adopted them.

Sharben from the Sileya Scuba Divers is one of the initiators of Kampung Penyu. “It’s our mission to raise awareness among the residents of Kampung Penyu to guard our ancestors’ homeland and the wildlife that has made it home,” he said.

My travel companions and local children instantly lightened up as Sharben brought a bucket filled with hatchlings in water. As we gathered by the shore, Sharben showed us how to release these young turtles to the sea. “Put them on the ground with their back to the sea, and let them instinctively turn around to find their way into the water,” instructed Sharben.

My friends - divers from Bandung and Jakarta - turned the ritual into a game by lining up the hatchlings and racing them to the

waters over handmade obstacles and ditches. But silly humans couldn’t fool the poor critters, which proved themselves smart and powerful enough to paddle their way to the sea in a matter of minutes.

“Only 10% of these hatchlings would make it to adulthood and produce offspring of their own,” said Sharben. 90% would either fall prey to natural predators such as sharks and seagulls, or die due to human threats such as bombs and chemicals.

In Kampung Penyu there are three species of turtles, including the Hawksbill sea turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata), the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas) and the Olive Ridley sea turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea). Despite all being cosmopolitan species found in tropical waters all over the world, their conservation statuses range from vulnerable to critically endangered.

The idea for Kampung Penyu was conceived in July 2012 when Sharben came home to Dusun Tulang in Barugaiya to take care

of his family’s land. He stayed with Datu, a close relative and community leader. Together they started a conversation about turtle eggs, which Sharben’s grandfather used to consume on a daily basis when they were young.

In August 2012, Sharben, Datu, and two friends from Sileya Scuba Divers Benteng inspected the coast of Tulang for remains of turtle nests. It was past breeding season. Instead, the men found that the beaches were littered with marine debris carried by the Western Monsoon, creating a hazardous environment for spawning turtles.

Since then, members of Sileya Scuba Divers have been regularly meeting in Benteng to start a campaign against the sales of turtle eggs. They invited members of the community and installed banners in the local markets to familiarize them with laws protecting endangered species.

In order to gain community support in eradicating the sales

of turtle eggs, Sileya Scuba Divers compensate poachers Rp.1,000 per egg - well above the market price of Rp.800 per egg. Starting in February 2013, inspections were held in local markets to save turtle eggs. 85 eggs were rescued then, with redemption compensations donated by the Takabonerate National Park. In late March, three of those eggs hatched. The rest were damaged from having been rinsed with fresh water in the market.

After the sad incident, Sileya Scuba Divers invited locals in Tulang to build proper protected nesting grounds for turtle eggs. Beach cleanups were also organized to ensure that mother turtles have safe places to lay their eggs. On 22 April 2013, while celebrating Earth Day with the local government and a travel community from Makassar, the project was christened as “Kampung Penyu”.

In early May, 102 out of the 104 eggs nested in Kampung Penyu hatched. The hatchlings were released to the sea the next day.

words & photos by Grace Susetyo

The Selayar Marine Conservation ChallengeSEA TURTLES


Today, Kampung Penyu is a self-sustaining project funded by members of Sileya Scuba Divers and donors. There is currently only one continuous donor, but many opportunities for one-off donations through its turtle eggs adoption program or tours in Kampung Penyu.

Kampung Penyu intends to adopt the compensation model practised in Derawan in 2005, where turtle egg compensations are gradually phased out as former poachers start earning a living from sustainable alternative livelihood programs. In Selayar, Sileya Scuba Divers are training former poachers to farm mangrove crabs.

“I wouldn’t have started and continued to support this project if it didn’t benefit the local community,” said Sharben. He said he hopes that Kampung Penyu will ensure that future generations in Selayar will still get to see the turtles that call the island home.

In a peaceful and relatively secluded small island where local life is a love affair with the sea, it’s easy to think that Selayar is now free from environmental threats to its wildlife. The truth is, even Selayar’s marine conservation challenges are still many.

Grace SusetyoGrace is a freelance writer, former TV journalist, and aspiring documentarist with a passion for Indonesian history and culture. Now in her 6th year in Jakarta, Grace has lived in various countries and looks forward to exploring more places. Contact her at [email protected]

Conserving sea turtles are never exclusively about saving one or a few species. Rather, it requires the orchestration of protecting the entire ecosystem in which they live. With many factors beyond the community’s control — irresponsible netting, fish bombing, chemical fishing, coral bleaching, marine debris coming from other places — there is so much more to saving the turtles than safely hatching their eggs.

While Selayar is no unspoiled paradise, there is still a lot of beauty in its blissful landscapes and zestful underwater life. And the fact that young locals are doing something to conserve it offers hope that the beauty will remain there a little longer. ■

To visit or donate to Kampung Penyu, contact:Mobile: +62 (0) 852-5525-8910Twitter: @SSD_Selayarhttps://www.facebook.com/sileyascubadivers.selayarBRI Selayar Account nr. 0257-01-006731-53-1 Sileya Scuba Divers


words and photos by Francesco Ricciardi

underwater wildlife

Finding Nemo (in Bali)

I n a blessed land like Bali, it’s not surprising that even tiny little fish like “Nemo”

have decided to settle down and establish their permanent house here. Nemo, otherwise known as clownfish or anemonefish, live in tropical seas off the Indo-Pacific Ocean, from Japan until the Andaman Sea, Maldives and Red Sea. Clownfish live in symbiosis with sea anemone, which are colourful polyps which live on the sea floor attached by an adhesive foot, called a basal disc, and have column-shaped bodies ending in oral discs and many stinging tentacles. Some species of clownfish are very picky about which anemone they will live in, while others are more generalist, so can occupy more than one single species of sea anemone.

Many anemonefish species change from generalist to specialist depending on locations, especially in areas of high biodiversity and density like the Indonesian archipelago. It is something similar to what happens when different species of monkeys live in the same area; some of them like to live only in a specific tree, while other monkeys prefer to stay on the ground, and others in any tree at all.

The clownfish’s use of sea anemone as shelter is a wonderful example of a symbiotic and mutualistic relationship where the anemone protects the fish with its stinging tentacles, and the little fish fight against any predator that may be able to eat or harm the anemone. The skin of a clownfish is immune against the tentacles, so it can live protected inside the anemone, as well as indulge in food scraps left from the anemone's meals and occasional dead anemone tentacles.

Clownfish have a strict social hierarchy inside their anemone host, with a big female at the top of the society, followed by a mature male and many immature individuals. If for some reason

the dominant female dies, the male changes sex, becoming female, and the first immature fish in the hierarchy becomes the mature male. This strange phenomenon of changing sex is called Hermaphroditism and is typical of many fish families. In the Finding Nemo movie, when Nemo’s mother was killed by a giant barracuda, the father should have changed sex, turning into a big female, but maybe this phenomenon was a little too complicated to explain to the young audiences of this movie!

In coastal waters surrounding Bali, it’s possible to observe up to six different species of clownfish, maybe even more considering some rare species are difficult to find. Every clownfish has a preferred place to live, referred

to as their habitat; coral reefs, shallow lagoons and sandy bottoms. But all of them follow the same lifestyle, even if some are more aggressive than others when an observer approaches them. A number of these brave little fish can even bite fingers or smash into scuba masks while trying to fight off the potential danger to the anemone and the clownfish’s family.

The most common species in Bali is the Clarki Anemonefish (Amphiprion clarki). It’s a very generalist and competitive species, normally black and

Although the famous animation film starring a young clownfish and his father took place in Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, Indonesia is the real Nemo Country. The Island of Bali hosts up to six different species of clownfish in its waters; a real hotspot of biodiversity.

orange with two white stripes, actively defending his anemone host against predators, even very big aggressors, including divers. It’s possible to find this fish in almost every location, including Nusa Penida, Lembongan, Amed, Tulamben and Menjangan, the most common destinations for scuba divers and snorkelers. The “Real Nemo” (Amphiprion ocellaris), orange with white stripes, is also present, even if less common, but it’s easily observable in coral slopes like those present in Nusa Penida (South Bali) and Pulau Menjangan, in North Bali. ■

Francesco RicciardiFrancesco Ricciardi is a freelance photographer and journalist based in Bali. PhD in Marine Biology and diving instructor, he uses his camera to uncover the wonders of Indonesian marine and terrestial wildlife. His website: www.francescoricciardi.com



by Bill Dalton

meet the expat

W orking his way up through the ranks, Tim Husband has worked in

zoos in Australia, New Zealand, India and throughout Southeast Asia for more than 30 years. Growing up in a very strict family in New Zealand where little love was shown, Tim found early on in life that being around animals helped him to find the missing bits in his life. As a child he often visited zoos, animal parks and pet shops to see what was there and to learn as much as he could about wildlife. In his early 20s, Tim left New Zealand to live in Australia. At Sydney University, he earned a degree in zoology. In the course of his career, he has helped with the hand-raising of a gorilla, and looked after Sumatran tigers, sun bears and chimps. Presently Tim works as Curator of Life and Science at Bali Safari and Marine Park, one of Asia's top fauna parks.

What was your childhood like?I was one of those kids who was always bringing home animals.

Animals will love you back unconditionally as long as you treat them well and with the respect they deserve.

What was your first pet?That's easy. She was part Whippet and part Labrador and her name was Penny.

When was your first visit to Bali?In 2009, I was working as a consultant in a New Zealand zoo where a keeper had been killed by a tiger. My job was to sort out all the problems and set up new standards so it wouldn't happen again. That same year Hans Manansang, the GM of the Bali Safari and Marine Park, invited me to visit Bali to see if I was interested in joining his team. At first I wasn't interested because zoos over here had such a bad reputation in animal welfare, but I was so impressed with how well the animals were being treated and with the park’s conservation work that I accepted the job.

What are the Bali Safari and Marine Park’s most endangered animals?We have a number of animals that are endangered, from the Bali Mynah to the Sumatran elephant. I can say with confidence that just over 70% of the animals in our collection are endangered.

Are there specific problems related to maintaining your endangered species? In Bali we have the potential of doing so much for endangered Indonesian wildlife, but the one big problem we face is that with the rabies ban on zoos and animal parks on the island, we are not able to import new genetics for use in the breeding

of our carnivores and primates. This means that inbreeding will become a critical issue in the future because of the limited supply of unrelated animals in Bali. This is a situation that really needs to be looked at not only for exotic animals but also for domestic animals. If Bali had its own quarantine centre, then animals with fresh genetic blood for breeding could then be brought in and out of the island.

Is the work of capturing, recapturing or restraining captive wild animals dangerous?Oh yes! Always there’s a danger for the animal. It might get hurt or too stressed out. Secondly, there’s a danger that people could also get hurt. So it’s always important to do the job properly and quickly with safety foremost in mind for both the animal and staff. If we are moving a large crocodile, then we need to make sure we have the manpower first to jump on the reptile and hold

Do zoos and fauna parks follow a code of ethics in their treatment of animals?Yes, there is an ethics code, but unfortunately many zoos and parks do not follow. There’s now a zoo accreditation system in Indonesia as there is in many other countries around the world. This is set up to help bring up the standard for zoos here to a higher level. It covers every part of the husbandry of the animals plus conservation, record keeping and putting in place a master plan. I was very proud when Bali Safari and Marine Park became one of only two parks in Indonesia that passed the strict assessment and achieved an A Class accreditation.

What are the most common misconceptions that the public has about zoos?One is that animals at a zoo or park are pets and can be touched. Another is that all zoos are doing a great job saving wildlife.

Are there differences in the attitudes that Australians and Indonesians have towards animals? It’s easy to say that Australians look after their animals better. But the truth is that in countries like Australia the extinction rate of their wildlife is a lot higher. I do feel, however, that here in Indonesia we can learn from the mistakes that other countries make by taking some very positive steps before it's too late. But we need to move NOW and not sit around talking about it for a few more years.

Of all the species of animals you have worked with, what have been your personal favourites?I try not to have a favourite and try my best to give all species equal attention. I have seen other curators that have fallen into the trap of having a favourite species and the whole collection suffers because of it. It’s easy to find interesting things with every species if you look.

What is the most unusual animal behaviour you’ve ever encountered?To be honest the most bizarre animal behaviour that I have seen is human behaviour. We have the power to do so much good, but we still don't use that uncontested power wisely. All over the earth you see mankind pushing animals to the edge of extinction. We all share this home we call earth and yet we treat it like there is a spare one we can move to. There are many people out there who care for the animals around us, but sadly there are not many that are in a position to be able to change the laws to help. ■

Tim Husband

Zoo Curator

it down. If it's a big cat, then we will try to crate train it so it walks into its box by itself stress-free. Sometimes if that doesn't work we will use drugs to sedate large dangerous animals like tigers and lions.

'THE MOST BIZARRE ANIMAL BEHAVIOUR THAT I HAVE SEEN IS HUMAN BEHAVIOUR. WE HAVE THE POWER TO DO SO MUCH GOOD, BUT WE STILL DON'T USE THAT UNCONTESTED POWER WISELY.'

Bill DaltonBill Dalton has been writing travel features, book reviews, interviews and guidebooks about Indonesia for more than 40 years, starting with his groundbreaking Indonesia Handbook first published in 1976. Bill lives on a farm with his Indonesian family deep in the countryside of west Bali.


Stephanie BrookesStephanie Brookes is a freelance travel writer www.travelwriter.ws and will be covering our Faces of Bali column for David Metcalf, our regular columnist, who is away for one month.

W ayan lives in Ubud, but as an artist who paints for a living, he does not turn to

Ubud to sell his work, but supplies to a wholesale market in Sukawati, Gianyar, which gives him regular cash flow and enables him to continue his passion; to paint every day.

Things changed after the (first) bombing in 2002. This is Wayan’s story.

Business was thriving pre-2002 and more than 70% of people in his village were gainfully employed as artists and painters. “It was very good money and easy to sell your artwork,” Wayan explained to me. “Many people would come and pay upfront before the painting was completed but suddenly that stopped. The orders just stopped. The bombing changed many things for many locals.”

I Wayan Sanggra is 54 years old and his sole income is from painting. He started in 1975, but he has seen many changes in his 38 years of crafting beautiful Balinese traditional paintings.

He now sells his work to a wholesaler from Sukawati Market, who on-sells his work. Most of the customers are Indonesian now, many from Jakarta. He receives Rp.100,000 for a small painting and Rp.200,000 for a large painting. He sells about five per month. His paintings take three to five days to make and he has the paintbrush in his hand at 7am and works all the way through to 10pm, but often he is up till midnight. He does this seven days a week. He breaks for lunch, dinner and a shower only, and of course, when there are temple ceremonies to attend, he stops work.

He used to paint with extreme intricate detail, taking care with the fine features of the hand and fingers and facial expression in his paintings. It would take him one month to complete a painting. He has now

adapted his skills to produce what he calls quick turnaround paintings and has had to compromise on the quality of paint he uses.

The price of canvasses has risen in the last 10 years from Rp.5,000 to Rp.30,000, but the selling price has remained the same. He used to paint with the highest quality paint, however this now runs at five times the price and if he reflected this in his pricing, he would not sell one painting. The going rate for high quality paint is Rp.50,000 per unit and the low quality paint is Rp.10,000, so the economic realty dictates that the cheaper alternative must be used to remain competitive.

Cheap paintings sell quickly and Wayan is happy to have had a 10-year relationship now with his wholesaler who gives him regular orders. The biggest sellers being Barong dance paintings, traditional market scenes and farmers in the rice fields.

Wayan demonstrated how you do a quick painting. In a Barong dancing painting, for example, there might be 30 dancers, so he does the sketch first in pencil and in his words “makes all their heads look like eggs”. Then, he hastily fills in all the colour and does the details of the face last, finishing with the eyes. A one-month painting would start with the detail of the eyes and work out.

Wayan is an acclaimed artist in his village. One of the best. His work is very fine, but he does not get to practice this technique often these days. He is happy to take commissioned assignments, with payment up front (like it used to be in the old days), but he does not market himself and just ekes out a living the best way he knows how. He is very happy, because he is painting every day and doing what he does best and most of all, what he loves. ■

If you would like a painting done, call Wayan on 0852 38451543 or his daughter-in-law (speaks English – Ketut on 0852 384 14177). Wayan lives in Banjar Kutuh Kaja, on Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud.

faces of bali

The Ubud Painterwords & photo by Stephanie Brookes

Wayan


by Karen Davis

happenings

T he Ubud Readers and Writers Festival opened for the tenth year on October

11th with an all female gamelan orchestra. The theme, ‘Through Darkness to Light’, is inspired by the work of Raden Ayu Kartini, a national heroine and pioneer of women’s emancipation in Indonesia. The focus on women was carried throughout the main programs with women writers from around the world. Panel sessions on women’s rights, education and health featured speakers such as Robin Lim, midwife and CNN Hero of the Year, Lebanese writer Iman Humaydan, and Australian journalist Anne Summers. The

Festival Founder and Director, Janet De Neefe opened the 2013 UWRF with a look over the past ten years, with highlights and memories of the authors who participated during the last decade and a look into the future of the festival and literature’s role in Indonesia. Goenawan Mohamad, an ardent supporter of UWRF since the early days, spoke of the festival’s past achievements and how it is Indonesia’s largest and longest-running international festival. It would be impossible to list the numerous special events and authors at the (more than) forty venues across Ubud. There were 75 panel discussions held

daily at three main venues, eighteen book launches, fifteen literary workshops and six film screenings.

Leila S. Chudori had excerpts read by actress Adinia Wirasti from her highly acclaimed novel Pulang (Coming Home). When Chudori published Malam Terakhir in 1989 she was hailed by critics as the golden child of Indonesian literature. Her work as a journalist interrupted her literary career. She did not publish again until 2009 when she presented a collection of short stories, 9 Dari Nadira. Her stories have recently been published in English under the title The Longest Kiss, from which Leila read for us.

Metta Dharmasaputra, investigative reporter and former business Editor of Tempo, spoke about the incredible story behind his best-selling novel Saksi Kunci (Key Witness). This account of corruption and the largest tax evasion in Indonesian history took six years to complete and followed years of fine journalism from this talented, intrepid writer.

Cartoonist, writer, painter, philosopher, poet, and lecturer Michael Leunic spoke on “The Vulnerability of an Idea”. He creates a complex range of emotions in a single image and explains the importance of having ideas that never make it to the page. He shows us how

ideas are nurtured by cultivating our primal innocence, which most of us deny and repress. His work explores the idea of a sacred personal world and the fragile ecosystem of human nature.

The Elders featured Cok Sawitri, an outspoken Balinese leader and Bilawara Lee, an elder of the Larrakia Nation of Darwin, Australia. These women discussed the changes, culturally and socially they have witnessed during their lifetimes in their communities and neighbouring countries. The women led an active discussion on our similarities and shared advice for future generations.

Through Darkness to LightUbud Writers and Readers Festival 2013

words by Karen Davisphotos by Ubud Writers & Readers Festival


The guru of travellers and Lonely Planet co-Founder, Tony Wheeler launched his book Dark Lands at Casa Luna to a full house. He shared his latest adventures visiting the world’s darker corners. His book is an attempt to understand what changed these places. He returned to Pakistan where he spent much of his childhood and has had a long love affair with. He said, “Pakistan is a country which has everything going for it but nothing works.”

Despite the fact he was there during intense anti-American rallies with signs everywhere reading ‘Kill Foreigners’ and ‘Death to Americans’, the people

were warm and friendly. Wheeler found the same throughout his travels to these areas full of anger and hatred toward foreign elements. The Congo inspired him with its gorillas and great volcanoes. Wheeler stated it has been subjected to the curse of its wealth in ivory, copper, gold and diamonds. He was arrested there for taking photos of a bar. From North Korea’s National Stadium where Tony was thrilled by the Army displaying its dance moves; to Palestine where he was inadvertently struck by stones thrown by youngsters, he was moved by the hospitality and generous hearts and minds of the people he encountered.

Karen DavisChilean born American, Karen Davis is a journalist, artist and art therapist. Formerly a NYC fashion designer, she has been coming to Bali since 1979 and now resides here.

The UWRF Poetry slam was not as stimulating as last year, but it still was a favourite event, inspiring hoots and groans from the audience. Excellent deliveries were presented in Indonesian and Malay. Some judges refused to pass judgement on them as they did not understand the words. There was little ‘slamming’ or ‘rapping’ of words. The winning poem was about the erotic love between women; graphic and heartfelt. There was poetry of life in Ubud and much about the angst of love and modern life. Pablo, the 2011 winner, came in third with a moving poem, Eulogy, about loss and acceptance. The event was

hosted by Australia’s current slam champion, C.J. Bowerbird who kept it all together in a humorous manner. One of the outstanding talents was the music presented by Ka Mau. He played diverse music from different time periods in perfect response to situations, keeping a lively beat and much laughter going throughout this celebration of the spoken word. Big respect to all participants for their bravery and fine words!

There are so many events, programs, discussions and book launches, it is impossible to see it all. What this festival is always guaranteed to offer is a lively exchange of ideas and insights. Intellectually stimulating people from all around the world come together and communicate ideas on issues of vital importance. It is a festival of literature from all walks of life, rich in diversity and creativity. UWRF never fails to present new and challenging ideas, bringing people together through the power of words. ■


by Paul V. Walters

Monkey

Business

wildlife travel

Paul V. WaltersPaul Walters is the author of two best-selling novels, Final Diagnosis and Blowback. His third novel, Counterpoint, will be released in October 2013.

T he title for this piece is perhaps a little ambiguous, as it will revolve around

orangutans of Borneo rather than the Gibbons or the Proboscis monkeys of that region. The orangutan is, of course, a giant ape and in many ways just one step removed (evolutionary speaking) from the human species.

Who can resist an orangutan? Well, quite a few actually.

For starters, try the palm oil production companies or the illegal loggers who are in the process of decimating Borneo’s magnificent rainforests. The upshot of this is that the orangutan’s habitat is fast-shrinking, along with the habitats of all other tree dwelling species as the chainsaws roar and the forests fall.

My particular theory is that the more people who make the journey to visit these critically endangered species, the more attention will be bestowed upon them.

There are two ways to see the orangutans, those in the wild, or those in the numerous ‘rehabilitation’ centres scattered throughout Sarawak and Kalimantan. The rehabilitation

centres are the easiest, although I found it rather circus-like with the antics at feeding time almost scripted for the adoring tourists who flock to these sanctuaries.

One of the easiest to get to is the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre just a few miles outside of the capital, Kuching. Here 29 orangutans live in just 650 acres of preserved rainforest. Unfortunately for a troupe this size, the area is far too small. They are nomadic creatures and generally fairly solitary. The males seldom tolerate other males on their patch of jungle and in this particular centre, aggression amongst the older alpha males is becoming more frequent.

Rehabilitation is a wonderful concept, although it has yet to be proven successful. Those in ‘captivity’ will have contact with humans and naturally pick up strains of bacteria not known to those orangutans in the wild. When released, it has been found that the wild orangutans will succumb too easily to human diseases from which they have no immunity.

Having said that, if you have never had the experience of seeing an orangutan, the centre will not disappoint; they are simply lovable to look at, highly

intelligent with their basic use of tools and their ability to reason. I read a report recently from Atlanta Zoo where two orangutan females now play competitive video games! It has been noted that in this particular sanctuary the alpha males will actually plan their day in advance, working out various times to move around and scout out various locations where they will spend the night.

For those more adventurous and wanting to see orangutans in the wild, it is best to venture to the wonders of Kalimantan. The Gamung National Park just across the border from Sarawak in West Kalimantan is the least visited national park in Indonesia. The density of wildlife is astonishing and if you are lucky you may spot the rare and incredibly shy maroon langur.

There are an estimated 2,000 – 2,500 orangutans living in the park, so you are sure not to be disappointed. If you do decide to go there, head to Ketapang, which is the main gateway and secure a permit to visit from the wildlife centre. The Kutai National Park in East Kalimantan is another gem where an estimated 700 orangutans reside, although logging and palm oil plantations are slowly but surely creeping ever closer. Access is easy via the city of Samarinda, but be sure to get your permit at the small town of Batang close to the main gate.

Tourism, in the case of the orangutans, is a good thing, as

the more people who visit will surely bring more and more pressure to their plight. The more people notice, the more noise people make, simple.

Borneo is one of the most incredible places on earth. The world’s third largest island and home to species that mankind has yet to discover. The quest for profit has taken over here as palm oil plantations now cover vast tracts of land where ancient forests once thrived. These easy-to-farm plants are in fact a blight, as when their life cycle has finished not much else can be grown; the tree will have sucked all the nutrients from the soil.

Short term thinking for a quick return, while the acrobatic gibbon, the shy proboscis monkeys as well as the majestic orangutan will one day no longer be with us.

Malaysia (Sarawak) is far more visited than Kalimantan. Its attractions are well-promoted and developed for tourism. If visiting Kalimantan, it’s a good idea to learn some basic Indonesian phrases, as English is not widely spoken. Better still get a guide for the duration of your stay. Kalimantan’s culture is richer, the forests deeper and the people so much friendlier. Check with the local government offices in all four provinces as they will be delighted to help.

So, if you never go, you’ll never know. ■

GETTING THERE

NATIONAL PARKS AND WILDLIFE CENTRES

WHERE TO SLEEP AND EAT

The easiest and most efficient way to travel to Sarawak or Kalimantan is to fly.

Air Malaysia via KL has daily flights to Kuching, the region’s capital. To Kalimantan the best option is to seek out deals out of Jakarta. Air Asia now runs a 3 X weekly flight from Denpasar –Kota Kinabalu.

BY SEAFor the more adventurous, ferries to and from Borneo can be boarded from several locations within Indonesia. Trawl the web for the best routes that will suit you.

SEMENGGOH WILDLIFE CENTRE SARAWAKIf on a whistle’s top journey, this is the quickest and easiest way to see orangutans. If using public transport take the No. 6 bus on Sarawak Transport co. to the main gate and walk the rest of the way (about 20 minutes). Easier still, take a taxi for the 30min ride from the centre of Kuching.

GAMUNG PALUNG NATIONAL PARK, KALIMANTANHighly recommended. To travel there the easiest way is to contact:Nasalis Tour & Travel, a not-for-profit organization owned and operated by the national park.Phone: +62 534 7722701Email: [email protected] or [email protected]

KUTAI NATIONAL PARK, EAST KALIMANTAN This park is adjacent to the main city of Samarinda. To arrange access and tours simply give Pak Supiani a call on +62 (0) 8134638803

Well you can’t take my word for it. Do what I do and visit Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree section and take other travellers’ tips. Alternatively, see what Trip Advisor has to say.


To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail [email protected] or call (+62) 821 1194 3084 or register at www.jakartacomedyclub.com light entertainment

is made possible by:

by Eamonn Sadler

Funny for All the Wrong Reasons

For t

he M

acet

Min

d

ACROSS1. Practise—run through (8)5. Canteen—chaos (4)9. Musical group (5)10. In transit (2,5)11. Meteor (8,4)13. Full-grown—ripe (6)14. Experienced or old sailor (3,3)17. Never-never (4-8)20. Domestic—valet (7)21. Self-satisfied—stately—protruding (5)22. Condiment—sailor (4)23. Phrase indicating compliance or assent (4,4)

DOWN1. Cross—measure (4)2. Axe (7)3. Re-run on TV of section of sporting event (6,6)4. Intervene dramatically, or at a senior level (4,2)6. Burst forth (5)7. Cheapest accommodation on passenger ship (8)8. Irresponsible with firearms (7-5)12. Stress (8)15. Arrange—to get rid (of) (7)16. Squirm (6)18. Of the country—pastoral (5)19. Image (4)

ACROSS — 1. Mischief maker 8. Glitter 9. Baths 10. Dude 11. Disloyal 13. Urgent 14. Stable 17. Literary 19. Wilt 21. Bragg 22. Written 24. Diametrically

Answers in the next edition!

THE LITERATURE

QUIZScan the barcode and answer the 10 questions correctly for a chance to win 1 Night Stay at Aston Kuta Hotel & Residences, Deluxe Room, including a buffet breakfast for two.

CLOSING DATE: 29th OCTOBER 2013

A comedian was appearing at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe early in his career. For his

show he had rented the back room of a pub which, after the landlord had taken the pool table out, could seat about 30 people. For the first four nights he got reasonable numbers by handing out a lot of flyers on the street, but on the fifth night he had a grand total of five people in the audience - two drunk women sitting in the front row, one old man sitting in the second row and two young men in leather jackets leaning against the wall at the back.

The comedian started his act bravely, but it was very difficult in the circumstances. He did his best but the audience remained silent. After about twenty minutes of agonising build-up he delivered his best gag of the act with gusto and beamed at the audience waiting for the big laugh. Nothing came. Then, with perfect

timing in the silence, one of the guys at the back nudged the other and said, “You know, there used to be a pool table in here...” There was no way to recover from that. Everyone got their money back.

Another act was booked to perform at a working men’s club in England. His show was to take place on the top floor of a three storey building to an audience of about 150 people and the only other entertainment was a DJ. There was no stage. There was no lift in the building either so everything for the party had to be carried up the stairs. The kitchen was on the ground floor so all the food had to be taken up to the top floor in a dumb waiter (an open electric lift about four feet square designed for the purpose).

The comedian waited nervously in a small side room. After the audience had finished dinner the DJ suddenly announced that there was a “funny bloke” coming on and cut the music

in mid-song. Caught by surprise, our man ran from the side room, took the microphone from the DJ and said, “Good evening ladies and gentlemen! Are you ready for some fun tonight?” They stared at him. “Well it’s great to be here! Let’s get to know each other a little bit. You Sir, where are you from?” The man ignored him. “Okay, how about you Madam?” She ignored him, too. All he could do was carry on with his act and hope for the best. It didn’t happen.

After about ten minutes somebody shouted, “Get the DJ back on!” Another man shouted, “I’ve got things in my ar*e crack that are funnier than you!” That got a big laugh. After about 20 minutes he gave up and walked back to the side room red-faced as the audience jeered. He felt suicidal. He wanted to leave immediately, but the only way out was through the crowd and he didn’t want to face them. He waited patiently in the side room for them to leave.

Eventually there was silence outside. The comedian ventured out of his hiding place, tiptoed over and peered down the staircase. They were all still there in the bar on the next floor down, including the man with amusing things between his buttocks. He would have to walk past him and right through the middle of everyone to get to the next flight of stairs. He couldn’t bear the thought of it, so he sat at a table and waited.

As midnight approached he was giving up hope of them ever leaving. Then he had an idea; if he could squeeze himself into the dumb waiter and reach out and press the button for the ground floor he would be able to bypass everyone completely and make good his escape. A desperate plan, but he was a desperate man. He squeezed himself into the dumb waiter in a cramped cross-legged position and pressed the button marked “G”. The machine clunked then whined loudly as he was transported slowly downwards

and he began to smile, thinking his plan was working. Unfortunately, the dumb waiter was also being used to send glasses from the bar to the ground floor and somebody from the bar called it just after he climbed in. After a few seconds the contraption stopped with a loud click and our funny man found himself staring out wide-eyed at the crowd from the cramped confines of the dumb waiter. The room suddenly fell silent. Then, simultaneously, everyone looked round at him and burst into laughter as one. A voice from the crowd rang out loud and clear, “I haven’t got anything funnier than THAT in my ar*e crack!” The comedian was forced to extract himself painfully from the dumb waiter and hobble out through the laughing crowd with all the dignity he could muster, which wasn’t much. ■

To read more by Eamonn Sadler go to www.eamonnsadler.com

Send us the funny things you hear new expats in Bali say and you plus a friend could be attending the next Bali Comedy Club event as our guests!

* Thanks to Anneke from Seminyak for this issue’s winning quote.

"But this is a one way street…"

BALI EXPATT H E N E W

DOWN — 1. Mug 2. Shindig 3. Hate 4. Earwig 5. Mobility 6. Kitty 7. Resilient 10. Double bed 12. Intrigue 15. Bristol 16. Drawer 18. Tiara 20. Zinc 23. Nay

ANSWERS FOR EDITION 33


World Culture in Development ForumThe World Culture Forum presents a set of symposia that takes the theme ‘The Power of Culture in Sustainable Development’. The World Culture Forum will be launched by President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono. The focus of this forum is to discuss and debate on strategic changes and development that the cultural industries should undertake. The overarching framework of discussion lies on titles like Holistic Approaches of Culture in Development, Creativity and Cultural Economics, Sustainable Urban Development, Inter-faith Dialogue and Community Building, etc. Leading international agencies and government officials are expected to be present and contribute their ideas in this forum. This conference will be held on 24-27 November 2013. Visit www.wcfina.org or e-mail [email protected] for more information on the event.

1st Bali Beach GamesWhat better way to spend the weekend than by being active and having fun in the sun! Bali Sports Foundation (BSF) will host the first Bali Beach Games. This event is organized in association with Bali Surf Lifesaving, Australian Beach Rugby, Denpasar Cricket, various NGOs and

Yayasan Perbangunan Sanur (YPS). Bali Beach Games will combine regular and adaptive sports in one setting, making it a weekend full of activities. The Bali Beach Games will mark the end of this year’s Sanur Village Festival. The sports that will be competed at the Bali Beach Games include beach rugby, quadrathon (triathlon + canoeing), beach volleyball, beach soccer, surf lifesaving, strongman challenge, beach cricket and others. The Bali Beach Games will start on November 30th 2013 and end on December 1st 2013, in Sanur, at the site of the 2008 Asian Beach Games. Register by sending an e-mail to [email protected] or by visiting www.balibeachgames.com.

Animal Training and Enrichment ConferenceBali Safari & Marine Park is a proud host of the first International Animal Training & Enrichment Conference (ATEC), set to take place on December 1st – 5th 2013. Presentations on wildlife sustainability and veterinary workshops will be the highlight of the conference. Two big names in the field will be joining the event, Steve Martin from Natural Encounters Inc. and animal enrichment expert Valerie Hare. The title of this year’s conference is ‘Hand in Hand... Naturally’. The conference secretariat can be contacted on (0361) 286 283 or send an e-mail to William Andrew on [email protected]. Visit www.atecbali.com for event information.

1st Bali International Stickfighting ChallengeA rather interesting and fairly new sport, the stickfighting sport from the Philippines, is having its International Tournament in Bali. On November 9th 2013, stickfighting athletes from around the world gather to win the stickfighting challenge. What started as a form of combat in wars, the Cacoy Doce Pares (Philippine stickfighting) is now transformed into a form of martial arts. This tournament will include fighters from different range of ages. The ‘Kulata’, a form of stickfighting with lighter padding and minimal body protection, is also scheduled for the tournament, among many other categories. This challenge will be held at the BSF Sports Centre, Jl. Waribang, Kesiman, Bali on November 9th 2013. For inquiries, please contact [email protected] or visit www.balistickfighting.com

Colleena Shakti Dance RetreatColleena Shakti is once again hosting a dance retreat that offers 25 hours of belly dancing training over the course of seven

Soulshine Festival Bali 2013On December 27th and 28th, the world renowned Soulshine Festival will be shaking things up in Bali. This well-known music festival is offering a two-day festivity located at the beautiful Green School Bali. A unique music festival, Soulshine is also an environmental-friendly festival that promotes positive music and messages of nature sustainability. This year’s Soulshine Festival will benefit Bumi Sehat, a natural birthing clinic in Bali and Aceh. Proceeds

from this event will also be going to the Green School Bali’s scholarship program in order to give free education to Indonesian children. The event is family-friendly; children are welcome to experience the fun that the Green School has to offer with activities such as face painting, Balinese dance classes, music performances, etc. This year’s lineup for the Soulshine festival include Michael Franti & Spearhead, Trevor Hall, Norma Jean, Jim Larkin & the Saucy Soul Band, Supa Kalulu, and many more. Tickets are available on www.soulshinefestival.com. E-mail [email protected] for more information on the event.

days. From December 7th to 14th 2013, the widely-known Colleena Shakti will be in Bali at the Desa Seni Resort, an eco friendly boutique hotel, and brings this art to life with her classes. Shakti is the pioneer of Shakti School of Dance in India. Shakti is known for her holistic approach in teaching dancing; engaging the creative mind and spiritual motions to finally create a physical contour that is both meaningful and brings enjoyment. The classes offered include topics on Indian aesthetics – Colleena has lived in India for many years – conditioning exercises, prana (breath awareness in dancing), exploration of posture and body lines, and many more. Visit www.colleenashakti.com for more information or www.desaseni.com for details on the venue.

(Left to right) Phil Kay, Raymond Mearns and Asep Suaji with organizer Eamonn Sadler at the first annual Bali Comedy Festival

The Bali Comedy Club presented the first annual Bali Comedy Festival on October 11th and 12th with shows in Gracie Kelly’s Kuta and Jazz Café Ubud. The festival took place as part of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, which celebrated its tenth anniversary this year. Bali Expat is a sponsor of the Bali Comedy Club and was proud to be part of this ground-breaking event. Comedians on stage were Asep Suaji, one of Indonesia’s rising stars, Chris Dooley, one of Australia’s favourite comedy sons, Phil Kay, the unpredictable wild man of Scottish comedy and Raymond Mearns, the laconic comedy genius from Glasgow. Check Bali Expat for news of future shows, or send your name and mobile number to [email protected].


Classifieds are still FREE!Send in your classifieds to: [email protected] issue deadline: 29TH OCTOBER, 2013

Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Bali Expat!

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Travel Transportation: Need any Transportation in Bali island and island surround it include Lombok island. Just call 6285205363888 or send your e-mail [email protected]

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Legian beach house for rent 4Are, 180m from surf breaks, full furnished, 2br, 1bath, AC, hot water. Open space living room, Large Garden, best Restaurants and shops walking distance. Rp.16, 000, 000 monthly, excluding utilities, optional yearly rate, Photos available, info and visit call/sms 081238384100 [email protected]

For rent: apartment Legian Beach,Bali-1br+/1ba-beach close/surf/shopping/ night clubs. -available dec. 6. Kitchen. 2 student ok,aircon,hot water,32inch flat screen LG tv, cable, wifi, dvd player, dvds. Furnished. 40 mil rp total/ 10 months or 28mil rp total/ 6 months or peak season 9mil rp total/month.call: 082147459912

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A mattress size 120. Sale for only Rp. 400.000. Call: 0812 3917 2763.

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DJ equipment 2 x Pioneer CDJ 1000 MK3, American audio mixer, Pioneer flight case and stand cost $3,500 USD new will sell $1,500 USD includes 100 music discs and lessons. HP: 0812 3759 9053.

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Briston DVD Player with USB, excellent condition, sellign for Rp. 85,000. Fixed. Contact: Maximum Spartan on 0878 5107 3568.

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Nikon Speedlight Flash SB-600, like new in box, with stand, diffuser, instructions, etc. Asking for Rp. 2,500,000 or best offer. Call or SMS: 0361 746 0113.

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Red color baby walker, comes with sunhood, very light weight. Price 700,000. negotiable. Call: 0819 9936 2544 or 081 816 6522.

Prodigy B52 DJ system. Includes DJ stand and leads. Very compact, has 2xCD players with MP3 capability and 4 channel mixer. Great for transport to and from gigs. Just had a new laser put into it, comes with a spare. Also great for learning and teaching for beginner DJs. Price: Rp. 8,000,000. Call: 0812 375 99053.

New laptop battery for Sony laptop type VGP-BPS9/S. 11.1V/4400mAh was wrong size, brand new. never used before. Bought for US$75, sell for only Rp. 500,000. For anyone interested, please e-mail: [email protected]

Dining table black minimalist style made from teakblock, 150cm length, can sit 4 people, table only Rp. 400,000. Contact: 081 735 5842. E-mail: [email protected]


Documents

Bali Expat – Issue 34 – Wildlife