Vol. 1/September 3-September 9, 2015

Saving the giant clam the 10th Sanur village FeStival rumah Sunda Ketjilmandapa ubud

2 September 3, 2015

PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA I EDIToRIAl AND GENERAl DEPARTMENTJl. tukad musi VI/17 Kav.1 renon Denpasar bali (0361) 265 436, 265 437 Fax (0361) 223 698 Jpbali@indosat.net.id, advertisingbali@thejakartapost.com, promotionbali@thejakartapost.com

the 10th Sanur Village Festival ‘mesucian’04 05

from THE EdiTor

Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat

Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara MahendraGraphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh

General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi

ConTEnTs

Cover photo: Courtesy of mandapa

Saving the giant clam

Jebak food court

06

07mandapa Ubud08

1011

12

bathing in paradise

mé agus, mobile grocery vendor

rumah Sunda Ketjil

Cultural tourism is so yesterday. It is still the official credo of the island’s tourism, yet, a fleeting gaze toward the new restaurants, hotels, resorts and malls along the island’s beaches and deep inside its highlands would suffice to show that the local culture is no longer in the front seat of this speeding train of lucrative industry.

this edition’s cover story focuses on a newly opened boutique resort in Ubud that tries to place the local culture center stage again. Instead of offering a golf course, it chose to retain a huge plot of rice fields inside its estate. Instead of building as many rooms as possible, it built only 60.

probably, there is sound business logic behind these decisions. but for bali, having more rice fields and more green areas is certainly good for its culture and its environment.

let’s hope that this resort will thrive, business-wise, so others may follow its approach.

--The Editor

Cultural tourism

bathing in paradise

3September 3, 2015

Since its inaugural race in 2012, bII maybank bali marathon, the pioneer international-standard marathon on the island, has seen growing

popularity.anticipating a huge rise in runners eager

to join the race — due to a regular annual increase of around 1,000 people, the organizer this year had to set a maximum number of participants to maintain quality and comfort.

Indeed, slots for the 42-kilometer full marathon were fully taken up in less than two weeks from registration opening. the quotas for other categories — the half marathon and 10k run, were also all taken up three months prior to the race.

the event has gained popularity in running communities both locally and internationally, with the number of participants increasing from 2,000 in 2012 to 3,000 in 2013, 4,500 in 2014 and 5,076 this year.

racing the scenic roads of Gianyar around the bali Safari & marine park, participants had the experience of getting in touch with natural balinese life.

last Sunday’s race day saw runners strive, be victorious and exhibit sportsmanship, as spectators cheered to boost their spirits as they fought to reach the finish line.

Kenyan mbogo elijah mwaniki won the full marathon men’s open category, dethroning fellow Kenyan Kennedy Kiproo lilan — the three-time race champion.

mwaniki, last year’s runner up, beat lilan by three seconds, clocking a best time of two hours, 17 minutes and 16 seconds compared to his rival’s 2:17:19. another Kenyan, paul eyanae, who ran some 15 minutes off the top time, turned in the third best time.

In all, 1,214 runners traveled the 42-km full marathon track, 2,051 ran the 21-km half-marathon, 1,757 opted for the 10 km run. there

bII maybank balI marathon 2015

WorDS DESY NURHAYATI pHotoS ANGGARA MAHENDRA“tHe HIGHly antICIpateD annUal rUnnInG raCe”

were also 40 paraplegic athletes in the special wheelchair run.

the paraplegic participants, who had a range of physical disabilities, raced 5 km for a total rp 22.5 million (US$1,595) in cash prizes at stake.

these runners came from several disability foundations in bali, with many of them suffering paralysis of the legs and lower body, typically caused by spinal injury or disease.

the wheelchair race has been a regular

event at the bali marathon since the inaugural race three years ago.

the inclusion of the wheelchair race this year also coincided with bII maybank’s corporate social responsibility (CSr) program, which focuses on economic empowerment among the disabled community and education assistance. the CSr program is a token of gratitude from the organizers to local people for their support of the event’s organization.

Sport

4 September 3, 2015

after five days full of fun activities, the 10th Sanur Village Festival ended Sunday night with a cultural parade involving local schools, hotels and the community.

In attractive costumes, the parade participants expressed the various themes of the annual festival over the last 10 years as they passed through the enthusiastic crowds of tourists and residents.

as they arrived at the main stage, they were greeted by bleganjur traditional music, followed by a series of performances that officially marked the end of the festival.

Centered at the maisonette area of Inna Grand bali beach, the festival is a community-based celebration that seeks to preserve and protect the local environment and culture, as well as stimulating innate creativity in Sanur, one of bali’s main tourist destinations.

as ever, the festival presented a huge variety of activities, including exhibitions, cooking, art and photography, fun activities and sport.

an environmental program was also on the main agenda, including beach cleanups, a turtle hatchling release and coral

planting involving school pupils, tourism stakeholders and local nGos.

the 10-year ‘”journey” of the festival had been focused on improving Sanur’s image as a tourist destination and a village with abundant creative potential, the festival’s coordinator, Ida bagus Wisnu Diwangkara, remarked.

With a large number of visitors on the last day, the organizers held a range of interesting activities, in addition to stage performances, including an international kite festival, fashion show and food bazaar.

Ida bagus Gede Sidharta putra, chairman of Sanur Development Foundation — the initiator of the festival, shared his optimism that Sanur would remain competitive as a destination and that the festival would continue to better equip the community to face the challenges ahead.

being community driven, the festival is a celebration of culture and creativity expressed in various activities that engage all components of Sanur’s society.

Festival

Sanur VIllage FeStIVal

the 10th

WorDS DESY NURHAYATI pHotoS ZUL TRIO ANGGONO

“a DeCaDe oF DeDICatIon to tHe SanUr CommUnIty”

5September 3, 2015

It was still very early morning when dozens of trucks carrying awesome barong and rangda demonic figures arrived at the pura padang Dawa temple in the cool,

hilly village of baturiti in tabanan, around 60 kilometers from Denpasar.

the barong and rangda figures had been brought from places in tabanan, bangli, Jembrana, badung and Gianyar.

For balinese Hindus, pura luhur puncak padang Dawa temple is the sacred place where Ida Sang Hyang Widi Wasa in his manifestation as Siwa pasupati reigns.

every buda Kliwon pahang, a day in the balinese lunar calendar, pura puncak Dawa

Images

‘meSucIan’“tHe baronG pUrIFICatIon rItUal”

WorDS anD pHotoS AGUNG PARAMESwARA

temple celebrates its anniversary — or odalan in the balinese language. this time, it fell on aug. 19.

thousands of people attended this extraordinary occasion, strongly believing that this temple was a place where people could

worship to obtain spiritual powers, or taksu. they patiently waited for the peak of

the pasupati ceremony, which took place at midnight. most of them braved the cold, wet and windy night before the temple’s pemangku, Hindu priests, started the ritual.

the ritual started shortly before midnight with a purification process in which hundreds of barong and rangda were carried to the beji, the holy water, creating a mystical atmosphere.

the balinese consider the barong to be a sacred creature that spiritually guides them.

the purified barong and other sacred items were then taken to the temple’s inner sanctum, accompanied by the magical sound of lelambatan and bleganjur, traditional balinese gamelan instruments. the music echoed through the temple, adding to the transcendent feeling of the moment.

like other rituals in bali, mesucian is a means to balance peace and harmony in the universe.

6 September 3, 2015

Soul

Fishermen and a local community group in nusa Dua, yasa Segara bengiat, together with nusa Dua reef Foundation, recently initiated an

underwater garden at bengiat beach, nusa Dua.the garden is designed to be an ecotourism

destination based on conservation of the kima — the wondrous giant clam — combined with coral reef rehabilitation.

the garden was officially opened last Saturday as part of the fourth regional business Forum of the Coral triangle Initiative for Coral reef, Fishery and Food Security, with support from Denpasar’s Coastal and marine resources management office and

Hassanuddin University’s maritime and fishery school.

With the inclusion of the giant clam as an endangered species on the IUCn red list, due to massive trade, the establishment of this underwater garden aims to replenish the giant clam population.

Indonesia is home to at least seven out of 10 kima species known worldwide. these species are spread across the entire archipelago, including in the waters of nusa Dua, as proven by divers who have encountered one of the species — Tridacna maxima, in this area.

the excessive amount of giant clams caught in destructive ways—by gouging them out

of coral reefs, has caused the population to drastically decline.

“by establishing this underwater garden, we expect to restore the kima population in nusa Dua. this will also benefit the local community in terms of improving the area as a sustainable marine destination,” said pariama Hutasoit from nusa Dua reef Foundation.

the Hassanuddin University maritime and fishery school has been conducting giant clam research and breeding since the 1990s off baranglompo island in South Sulawesi. With the help of the university, the nusa Dua underwater garden will also serve as a center of research and development for giant clam species.

For the initial effort, the foundation has placed 20 artificial reefs at a depth of 3-5 meters in this area, as well as some 300 young giant clams of the Tridacna derasa, Tridacna hipopus hippopus and Tridacna squamosal species supplied by the university and fishery company pt Dinar Darum lestari.

according to pariama, the target was for at least 1,000 young giant clams from the seven species to be added to the underwater garden each year.

the giant clam has a vital role to play in the ecosystem, one of which is as an indicator of sea temperature changes. Its presence also indicates that waters are pollution free.

SavIng the gIant ClamWorDS DESY NURHAYATI pHotoS COURTESY OF NUSA DUA REEF FOUNDATION

“neW UnDerWater GarDen IS bUIlt In

nUSa DUa to ConSerVe tHe GIant Clam”

7September 3, 2015

When it comes to finding food outlets in Denpasar, Jl. teuku Umar is one of the most complete locations in the

provincial capital city. From roadside food tents to cozy eateries,

there are scores of places serving a vast selection of food along the street, which has become even more popular as the city’s food center since Jebak food court was established.

Here the tenants offer a wide range of foods and prices, presenting visitors with a culinary journey through a wonderful variety of dishes — from Indonesian traditional foods, to asian and Western cuisines.

If you’re interested in tasting balinese food, there are quite a lot of choices, including the traditional fruit salads of rujak serut and rujak kuah pindang, as well as daluman, tipat kuah and the popular nasi campur (rice with an assortment of side dishes).

one kiosk offering various kinds of rujak is rujak bali, with prices per portion ranging from rp 10,000 to rp 12,000 (71 to 85 US cents).

For more satiating foods, customers can visit any of around 20 kiosks, with choices such as balinese nasi campur with be pindang and

jukut undis (rice with tuna fish and tomato condiment) or the spicy oseng mercon, and yogyakarta’s signature dish, the sweet-tasting gudeg.

Sundanese food is also available here, with one popular choice being nasi timbel (rice in banana leaves with fried carp and sayur asem). Soto betawi, (traditional soup from Jakarta) is also worth trying.

laksa, Singaporean Hainan rice, sushi, as well as thai fried rice, are among the foreign asian dishes served at Jebak.

all the food is prepared in an authentic way and tastes very similar to how it does in its original location.

Customers to Jebak just select the food they want and pay the cashier; the dishes are then prepared and served 10 to 15 minutes later.

all the tenants display pictures of the food and beverages they offer, as well as the prices, so customers can easily pick their favorite.

Jebak food court is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with parking available out front. the two-story building provides plenty of tables to accommodate groups of food enthusiasts during the busy hours.

Jebak Food court

WorDS anD pHotoS LUH DE SURIYANI

“one-Stop CUlInary FeaStInG In DenpaSar”

Savor

8 September 3, 2015

WorDS I wAYAN JUNIARTA pHotoS ANGGARA MAHENDRA

experience

mandapa ubud“a branD neW SanCtUary reSort oFFerS an aUtHentIC balIneSe VIllaGe experIenCe”

WorDS I wAYAN JUNIARTA pHotoS COURTESY OF MANDAPA

9September 3, 2015

the winding driveway opened up to a breathtaking view: a majestic traditional balinese split gate. the towering terracotta structure of earth-

colored bricks stood stoically against the bright blue sky that graced Ubud that afternoon. It instantly brought to mind images of royal balinese palaces from the ancient past and the majapahit empire’s architectural style that inspired them.

the resemblance did not end there. the welcome courtyard and pavilion are all constructed in traditional balinese style, a bold architectural decision amid the rising popularity of modernism with the island’s hotel proprietors.

Constructed in the style of a balinese wantilan—an open hall where kings hold court and the community congregates—the welcome pavilion is bedecked with solid wooden pillars and tranquil pools. mandapa itself is the Sanskrit word for a pillared outdoor hall.

It was this pavilion that truly revealed the unique vision behind mandapa. From its vantage point, patrons get an unhindered view of the sprawling mandapa compound and find that the 5.5-hectare resort has only 35 suites and 25 villas, leaving plenty of space for well-manicured lawns, verdant groves and neat rows of the island’s signature frangipanis.

presented as mandapa, a ritz-Carlton reserve, it is a deliberate departure from the international brand’s image as the proprietor of major hotels, each with hundreds of rooms.

“a few years ago, the president of the company decided to open a new brand, let’s call it a brand within a brand. ritz-Carlton is very much about city hotels and big hotels and we didn’t have small boutique hotels.

the president wanted to add that into our collection and, because it is small and very intimate, he wanted to call it something different. He decided to call it ‘reserve’, like for wines,” said mandapa general manager ana Gorjao Henriques.

a portuguese lady with an infectious smile and vibrant personality, Henriques has been dubbed the reserve Guru by her peers due to her extensive experience at Krabi’s phulay bay, the ritz-Carlton’s first reserve. mandapa is the third reserve to open, following Dorado beach in puerto rico.

the centerpiece of the mandapa landscape, however, is a vast expanse of rice fields right in the middle of the compound. maintained by the staff and local farmers, the rice fields are managed in accordance with the island’s famous subak system, including the use of

traditional hoes to plough the soil.a long stretch of the ayung river runs

alongside the rice fields before hugging the southern part of mandapa, adding another rural charm to the upscale establishment. the soothing sound of its stream is perpetual music that can be enjoyed from any corner of mandapa.

the rice fields and the adjacent pengiasan temple, where regular offerings and rituals are organized by its balinese custodians, were vital to mandapa’s vision of providing an authentic experience to its patrons.

“It’s all about the experience… We want to give [our patrons] a very unique and authentic experience with respect to the local culture. We want to recreate a balinese village in mandapa through the rice fields, the temple and its festivals, the architectural features of the buildings, the paintings and traditional textiles in each room, so the guests can stay here and feel that they are staying in a balinese village,” Henriques pointed out.

mandapa has recreated this village experience without sacrificing the luxuries and amenities any contemporary traveler expects from a boutique hotel.

Its suites offer spacious sleeping quarters adorned with balinese paintings and songket-embroidered duvet covers, as well as opulent bathrooms with a gorgeous view toward the lush hills that surround mandapa and the rice fields.

mandapa’s villas bring that luxury to another level with a private pool, separate, fully equipped living quarters, and gorgeous

sleeping quarters meticulously adorned with beautiful artwork and custom-made ceramics.

a host of butlers, in mandapa they are addressed as “patih”, the balinese term for a kings’ trusted aide, are always ready to provide personalized assistance to the global explorers.

mandapa Spa allows explorer to discover peace of mind and body through holistic, comprehensive wellness and lifestyle programs based on balinese spa treatments, detox and nutrition, alternative therapy, body therapy and healing. It also features a state-of-the-art fitness center, sauna, river-front yoga studio, vitality pool and relaxation areas.

Kubu restaurant, set along the ayung river, is a gorgeous construction of bamboo poles and glass lamps that will spoil patrons with its mediterranean cuisine. It also has nine bamboo cocoons for those who choose to enjoy a more intimate dining experience.

“explorer with children would find mandapa a very interesting place to stay as we have a very extensive program specially tailored for kids,” mandapa pr manager Wiwin Hakim said.

He was referring to Green Camp, the fruit of mandapa’s collaboration with the renowned Green School, which runs a program that sees children learn about the local culture and nature in exciting ways, from tending plants in the organic garden, to feeding cows, watching puppet shows or strolling through the rice fields at night while trying to identify the star constellations in the sky.

Staying at mandapa is not only a tranquil experience that relaxes the body and soothes the mind but also a culturally enriching one.

Cover Story

10 September 3, 2015

Sight

Singaraja, the capital of buleleng regency in north bali, played a crucial role in the historical political and economic landscape of bali and nusa tenggara.

long before Denpasar was declared bali’s provincial capital, Singaraja was already well known among international traders and businessmen operating during the times of the Dutch colonial administration.

the coastal town of Singaraja has been home to people from across the world — locals, Chinese, Indians, arabs, Javanese, bugis from South Sulawesi and other ethnicities, for hundreds of years.

the harbor was once a bustling port and business center for shipping and trade companies importing and exporting goods and commodities.

the Dutch colonial administration appointed Singaraja as the center to cover bali and lesser Sunda, or Sunda Kecil (now east and West nusa

tenggara provinces), from 1849 until 1953. the town was also an administrative center for the Japanese administration during World War II from 1941 to 1945.

the most important architectural legacies from those days are government and private buildings designed in european styles.

Some of these buildings are still used by the government, while many private properties have been transformed into businesses.

one of the more outstanding houses belongs to the family of I Goesti bagoes oka, who was appointed caretaker-resident of Sunda Kecil, overseeing six administrative regencies — bali, lombok, Sumbawa, Sumba, Flores and timor, from 1950 through 1958.

oka was also appointed the first governor of bali and established bali’s legislative Council.

oka’s family house is located in Singaraja’s prime neighborhood of Jl. ngurah rai, overlooking the official house of buleleng’s

Rumah Sunda Ketjil

“HIStory anD DelICIoUS FooD”

WorDS anD pHotoS ANGGARA MAHENDRA

regent and the offices of the buleleng regency.the house was beautifully designed in the

european style with stunning arched terraces and spacious rooms inside. It was built on a 2,600-square-meter plot of land, with a large garden surrounding the main building.

Unfortunately, this beautiful house was left empty for many years and gradually fell into despair as the family moved to other cities.

Several years ago, it got a major makeover and now functions as a “family” museum and the Sari mina food court.

“We had to cut all the grass and clean up the property. Some interior and exterior renovations were done to recover the house’s beauty and

elegance,” said novi, from Sari mina.Initially, novi’s father had a cafeteria at letkol

Wisnu airbase in Sumberkima, near Singaraja; later one of oka’s sons asked her father to open the food court.

“It took four months to cut the grass and clean up the garden,” she said.

now, rumah Sunda Ketjil offers affordable food and a journey though Singaraja’s history and the role of the family of oka and his wife, ni Wayan Gedong.

Singaraja, which houses so many historical and beautiful buildings, is truly considered one of Indonesia’s heritage cities.

11September 3, 2015

Sojourn

We believe that one of the most vital parts of a hotel or resort experience comes from the often-overlooked bathrooms. So, to bring this to the forefront of your attention, here are some of the best bathrooms in bali that we think you simply have to try.

w Retreat and Spa Balithe master bathroom in the extreme WoW Suite is

nothing short of amazing. located on the suite’s second level and offering views of the sparkling ocean, this bathroom fulfills all the extravagant needs of an a-list star that you might not find anywhere else on the island.

almost everything about this bathroom is supersized as it boasts a sprawling 68-square meter space, which is bigger than most rooms in other hotels, and is fitted with a separate rain shower room, a steam room, separate toilet and, the pièce de résistance, a gigantic, 182-centimeter diameter, round terrazzo bathtub with a skylight in which you can practically swim while overlooking the wave breaks of Seminyak beach. and should the ocean bore you, a 40-inch leD tV with state-of-the-art bose surround sound system is easily within reach.

Bisma EightWhat bisma eight’s bathroom lacks in views, it makes up

for in uniqueness — we even dare say that it is a sanctuary in its own right. the room itself is not the biggest in this bunch, but it definitely deserves undivided attention for its thoughtful design as it features a great amount of natural elements, such as stone and wood, that perfectly reflect the lush surroundings and Ubud’s tranquility.

as for the bathroom’s major draw, that would be the wooden bathtub made from Western red Cedar from the forests of Canada, put together by the skillful hands of the resort’s team and craftsmen from the US who were specially flown-in for the project. now, the bathtub itself might take a while to fill up, but once it does, the scent emanating from the wood creates a sublime natural and rustic experience that will definitely send you into a state of utter peace.

The Ritz-Carlton Balithis resort maybe a newcomer to the nusa Dua

peninsula, but it certainly is not a rookie when it comes to providing you with the utmost comfort and relaxation, especially when you are lucky enough to stay at the ritz-Carlton oceanfront Villa and enjoy its marvelous

marble-clad bathroom. the expansive 65 sq.m. bathroom is so swanky it has

a private shower cabin, separate his and hers toilets with a specialized bidet for the ladies, double vanity, walk-in wardrobe, dedicated dressing table, and white Carrara marble sunken bathtub that is so huge it can be called a plunge pool — it measures 2 meters by 1.6 meters to be exact. lavish and extravagant are the only two words that can describe it. oh, and did we mention that from this bathtub, you can gaze out at the surrounding lush greenery and the sparkling azure waters of the Indian ocean beyond?

Four Seasons Sayanthis sprawling resort’s one-bedroom Duplex Suite is

probably one of our favorite rooms in Ubud as it perfectly resonates with the area’s calm with its beautifully designed wood and natural stone finishing, especially the intricately carved teak headboards. but what made us really fall in love with this suite is the bathroom, which boasts an elevated view of the lush greenery of the famed ayung river valley.

the bathroom itself is exquisite. With a soothing color combination of teal and light beige, it reflects the serene surroundings, while also being fitted with a separate glass shower enclosure, walk-in wardrobe, double basins with Italian fixtures and a deep terrazzo soaking tub that is big enough for two (or even three, if you feel adventurous). remembering this bathroom has us reliving our amazing experience bathing in warm fragrant water in that tub while sipping on our wine.

The MuliaWhen opulence by the sea is what you’re looking for,

then the mulia’s baron Suite is where you will find it. as the resort is already renowned for its luxury, it is no wonder that this atmosphere seeps into its amazingly well-appointed bathroom.

Featuring a large marble-top double vanity, a separate shower room, walk-in wardrobe and a large stone bathtub that overlooks the twinkling Indian ocean through a large glass wall, the mulia’s bathroom is specially designed to make you feel like royalty. However, none of these are the reasons why we put this bathroom on this list. In fact, the very thing that got us fixated with it was the super fluffy, warm bathrobe and the Jacuzzi on the balcony.

bathIng In paradISeWorDS ARIkO AHMAD pHotoS COURTESY OF w RETREAT AND SPA, BISMA EIGHT, RITZ-CARLTON

BALI, FOUR SEASONS SAYAN, THE MULIA

12 September 3, 2015

the view from Down here

I first spotted mé agus zipping along the back roads of bongkasa on her scooter, rigged out with wooden carrying pallets, various containers with all manner of goods sticking

out and a forest of plastic bags full of vegetables hanging from every inch of the rig. middle-aged, with a weathered face, she wore a cap, shirt, jacket and tights.

She pulled over in front of a compound where one elderly woman was already waiting. In one deft movement she swung a smooth, 1-meter long, polished wooden pole off the top of her goods and propped the bike upright with it. Clearly she’d done this too many times to count.

Soon a couple of other ladies from neighboring compounds emerged. the women picked and poked and haggled.

“I still have some credit with you, don’t I?” one queried. mé agus nodded. to another she said matter of factly, “you still owe me rp 5,000 [35 US cents], I think?” the woman flicked her eyebrows up in the meaningful-but-not-exactly clear way that only the balinese can do — which in this situation meant a reluctant “yes”. “Well, can you just add this to that bill and I’ll pay you tomorrow, oK?” mé agus nodded with just the tiniest hint of resignation.

on top of her moving grocery jumble, a barely covered container carried preserved fish, the infamous balinese bé pindang. Slightly shy of guileless, I asked what she did with the fish if she didn’t sell them all that morning. “oh, I keep them and sell them the next day.” obviously a dumb question on my part.

about four customers later, after a young boy with his kid brother in tow bought a bunch of boiled soybeans, it was time to pack up and move. I got ready to follow her up the road, only to find that she just zoomed up about four compounds, stopped again, and, once again, with the same smooth, one-move-action, swung the stick over and propped the bike up. at this rate of displacement it was no wonder she was good at that move.

between sales we chatted a bit, and it turned out she was one of the main mobile durian vendors in Ubud for various people in bongkasa who owned the large trees that bear this big, thorny Southeast asian fruit renowned for its odor. there’s no middle road with durian—you either love it or hate it. mé agus told me she did brisk sales in Ubud during durian season.

Wangling her mobile number and address out of her, I set up a time to see her in a couple of days. It seemed to leave her a wee bit non-plussed, but she nodded. I couldn’t help thinking that she agreed just a little like she did with the woman who owed her money and wanted to add more to the tab…

two days later, I tracked her down at home. Home was a small but ornately decorated compound with some fancy stonework. three or four dogs barked ferociously from cages barely big enough to hold them.

mé agus appeared in a singlet and some pajama-like pants. “How did you find me?” I even had to describe the woman at the stall down the road before she was satisfied. Her mother-in-law, fragile and advanced in years, worked quietly on a pile of offerings. I got a very clear impression that this old woman was still quite sharp, observing everything with little comment. mé agus’ husband, who was not home, turned out to be a builder in the traditional style. that

mé aguS, mobile gRoceRy vendoR

WorDS anD pHotoS RIO HELMI

explained the fancy stone and brickwork in an otherwise modest home.

mé agus and I got chatting. We talked about her business first. I asked her how much she spent at the market in blahkiuh, how many times a week she went out, and so on. “oh, I go out probably about three times a week, depending. If it rains, or if I don’t feel well, I stay home. I spend about rp 800,000 at the market for my goods.”

and how much did she gross I wondered. “I don’t know…” came the reply. the pretend businessman in me said, “Wait a minute, how can you not know how much money you bring home? How can you not know your profit margin?”

“Liu nyama braya né Pak…” Which literally translates as “I have a lot of family and relatives”, which translated into plain language basically means that, in typical balinese clan style, she gives to and supports various people from her income and doesn’t keep any books.

I asked her about the people who ran up tabs, did they pay up? “most do. then there are some who don’t…” She said in her matter-of-fact way, the quiet resignation flickering on her face. “but I also spend the money I make on offerings, we have to make lots of offerings daily,” she said pointing to her mother-in-law. “It’s our way of life in bali. So I really don’t know exactly how much profit I make. but we can make the offerings that we need, and that’s most important for our well-being.”

mé agus, which literally means agus’ mum, was now feeling much more comfortable with me. like many balinese, her real full name is rarely used. She tells me her real name (she calls it her “name before”) was Ketut purni from pejeng. In fact, she is by now so trusting of

me that she confessed she was a bit doubtful when I said I wanted to interview her at home. “I wondered what does he want? maybe he wants to hypnotize me?”

Struggling not to fall off the bale pavilion in a fit of almost uncontrollable giggles, I reflected on the many lurid stories that local papers have run about “Javanese” hypnotizing shop attendants who robbed them (don’t laugh, the police seem to think it’s a solid alibi).

“you know a lot of old people are particularly vulnerable to cheats.” that might be, but the sharp-eyed mother-in-law, who is patiently and quietly working on her pile of daily offerings, doesn’t look the type — she is registering everything we say.

It turns out that agus is her first born, a son who now works as a guide for tourists. I spot a shiny new, tri-color Honda Cbr 250 under the two-story building where agus has his digs. I conclude that guiding business is good, despite the fact that he previously couldn’t fulfill his dream of working on a cruise ship due to a lack of registration money.

mé agus has a daughter too; she works in a villa in Canggu and is married with a child. So, I suppose there isn’t that much pressure anymore for mé agus to do excel spreadsheets with profit and loss columns.

the family apparently owns no rice fields or dry fields, so what you see in this ornate but cramped compound is what you get. the absent husband spends time away working on projects; between them they support a functional balinese village household. It dawns on that mé agus, 10 minutes away from the bustling expat hub of Ubud, is in fact a typical balinese villager, who despite having extensive contact with the outside world, including foreigners when she is

selling durian in Ubud, remains emotionally (and blissfully) uninvolved in the booming tourist industry.

“oh, some tourists buy my durians, not all. but they never bargain”.

When I asked her what she thought about all the development and the tourist boom, she was non-committal, almost evasive: “oh, I just pray that everyone is happy, that everyone’s welfare is ensured.”

but when the topic moved over to her gamelan group and a competition in which they came second, she lit up, animated. “We were much better than the winners. the judges were definitely biased. ah, you know nowadays, even the gamelan competitions are just ‘projects’ [meaning opportunities for graft] for these functionaries. they couldn’t believe that our group was all just from our village. Hey, we trained long and hard for it.”

the outside world that concerns her is more likely to be the Javanese workers who come to work in her neighborhood.

“I once had a truck driver and his family board. they burned my curtains and still owe me two months’ rent. they took off and left some stuff behind, they didn’t even dare come and get it themselves; they tried to send someone else to get it. I said no way.”

mé agus, like most women of her village, is much more concerned with what she encounters in her day-to-day life than anything she might hear on the news. there isn’t much room, or time, for the intellectual posturing or theorizing that might preoccupy the men of her village during their leisure time, which they seem to have more of than the women. Her opinions are simple and clear, based on her own direct, day-to-day experiences.

13September 3, 2015

cladsSERVICESAccountant, tax consultant, QuickBooks expert. Call 0878 600 22239 anggra1@yahoo.com

Aqua Fitness Courses and Aqua Bike Courses, Seminyak. Call: 0818 054 19300

Baby sitter services. Contact me 0852 3810 0025

Blue Med Bioresonance theraphy in front of Pecatu Graha. Please contact 087860133047 for more informa-tion.

British photographer services available. Specialist in product & culinary photography. Fully equipped modern studio facilities. Call 08123 883532

CV Yazna Villa Management. Professional service for all needs. Located at Jl. Majapahit No.76 Kuta. Office 0361 767 108. Mobile 0812 382 3731

Do you need a consultant for your F&B outlet? Contact Fokus Hospitality for one-stop solution. 0361 274 0619

Driver, speaks English, freelance, honest. Good price. Contact: 081 797 81005

English private tutor offers English/Math tuition for chil-dren 5-12yrs. 7 years experience as a classroom teacher in UK & Australia. Call 0817 470 3070

Freelance driver, speaks English, is honest and reliable. Contact: 0819 9996 1750

Freelance pool cleaner and garden services. Please call 0878 6017 0659

Funding available for real estate projects or business expansion. Non-recourse, no pre sales, low interest rate 4%-7%. www.ajoyacapital.com

Get your website on Google’s first page for more cus-tomers. Call/SMS 0811 380 151

Grand Master, Babaji Maharaj, offers yoga, medita-tion, shakti healing through the chakras. Experience of a lifetime! Offering private lessons. Ubud area. Email info@omatrixcenter.com

Here is VETERINARY 24/7 SERVICE. VETERINARIAN. High-ly experienced and friendly, on call, 24/7 services. Call: 082144509796

Home made jewelry. Silver and gold. Good price with high quality product. Call 081 7477 9129

Indonesian freelance cook. Text Elok 0813 902 36628

Indonesian lessons for foreigners provided at your home / office, native teacher. Sms/call: Ms. Asima 0821 468 50175 / email gemilangcourse@gmail.co, www.balipages.biz.learn.speak.indonesian.

Indonesian lessons, free trial class. Contact: 0878 616 37555, nika.wirawan@gmail.com

Jonsen Pet House. Dog boarding and playground. 0361 2727 645 / 0812 6304 5125. jonsenpethouse.com

Made to order: bags, wallets, jackets, leather. Pls call 0819 3621 9030

Need a building contractor? Call 0881 460 2907 / 0812 360 9639

Painting courses, professional artist. Call 0361 837 2501

Private courses in the Chinese language. Simple system. Call: 0818 055 60595 / 0813 382 17788

Private Indonesian language classes for foreigners. Call Dwi 0813 3870 5158

Advertise with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to advertisingbali@thejakartapost.com

Island BuzzHoliday Inn launches wedding venue in Benoa Anantara Bali Uluwatu offers sunset yoga

Private piano lessons for kids. Contact Steven, 0813 393 21615 / 089 651 434612

Private yoga lessons: in a studio, in a villa or in the com-fort of your home. British teacher. All levels catered for. 0817 470 3070

Relaxing Thai massage for women. Contact: 0822 3760 3026

Relaxing yoga, private classes. For more info, please call 0822 3760 302

Saxophone or guitar lessons at any level. SMS 0813 398 07682 Doug.

Soap-making class, 4 hours, Rp 1 mill. Call 0813 287 16169, kesambibali@gmail.com

Swimming, private courses. For more information please call 0818 054 19300

Web design, SEO, and video editing service. Portfolio : www.creativewebdesign.com Contact : 0819 9938 5206

Wood & composite decking specialist & carpenter. Email : woodworking.bali@yahoo.co.id 081999857305

www.BaliShoot.com. Affordable commercial advertis-ing photography.

Holiday Inn Resort Bali Benoa has launched NUDI Beach Club as an event and party venue suitable for weddings, engagement parties, gatherings, baby showers, corporate lunches and dinners. Situated in the upper lounge and garden area, there are a variety of indoor and outdoor reception packages available. Clients are offered the best venue, services and consulting for weddings and receptions, with help for individual events based on client needs.NUDI Beach Club accommodates up to 60 people in the upper lounge, overlooking the ocean, as well as having a garden area. After dinner, guests can sit by the pool or dance the night away on the dance floor.Starting from Rp 30 million (US$2,128) net on weekdays and Rp 50 million net at weekends, the price includes a buffet or set menu meal for up to 30 people and 2 hours’ free-flow on select beverages, with additional people charged at Rp 800,000 net.“No matter what your budget, we’ve got something that will fit your needs,” said Simon Morley, general manager of Holiday Inn Resort Bali Benoa.

Anantara Bali Uluwatu is offering balance and wellness programs as the island embraces the end of summer. A wide range of healthy and holistic activities, such as yoga, reiki and taichi, can be booked individually or tailored into a personal program, guided and supported by the resort’s team of wellness experts. This individual approach allows you to relish your personal freedom and find your personal balance as you engage in rejuvenating wellness experiences or indulgences to suit your mood and needs. Focus on your inner awareness, develop your strength, flexibility and balance through holistic exercises that help to release energy blockages, clear and mind and relieve stress. Soften the end of summer blues by nurturing your body, mind and spirit and embrace a healthy new you at Anantara Bali Uluwatu, a stunning resort that cascades down the cliff of Impossible Beach, aptly named for its limestone cliffs, secret caves and wild waves. The unending Indian Ocean views, legendary surf, mesmerizing sunsets and rugged cliff-side beauty are matched by Anantara’s chic luxury and its uniquely flexible Balinese wellness concept.

14 September 3, 2015

Events

Calendar of EventsAn Evening SoireeSept. 4From 7:30 – 9 p.m.Amazing classical piano recital with Toru Oyama and Iswargia Renardi Sudarno.Padma ResortJl. Padma No. 1, Legian

Bali Beach RunSept. 6Starts 6 a.m.Kuta BeachJl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta

BBQ and Beats Every Friday and SaturdayFrom 4 – 7 p.m.Cocoon Beach ClubJl. Pantai Double Six, Kuta

Bounce Pool PartySept. 6From 1 – 7 p.m.Cocoon Beach ClubJl. Pantai Double Six, Kuta

Creamy PleasureSept. 5Starts 8 p.m.Whisky tasting with global brand ambassador, Robin Coupar.Single MaltJl. Kayu Aya No. 68, Seminyak

Film Explorer Night at BowSept. 3From 7 – 10 p.m.Bow BaliJl. Batubelig, Kerobokan

Flesh + Flora – Art Exhibition Until Sept. 15Bandung-based collage artist Resatio Adi Putra presents a feast for the eyes with his impressive art.Ghostbird + SwoonJl. Danau Tamblingan No. 75, Sanur: 0821 442 54110

Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and SaturdayFrom 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m.Mannekepis Jazz and Blues BistroJl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta: (0361) 8475784

Koh Saturday with Arado(Desolat/Moon Harbour/102/DE) Sept. 5Starts 11 p.m.KohJl. Camplung Tanduk, Kuta

Kul Kul Farm Bali Open Day Every ThursdayFrom 8 - 11 a.m.Come and join workshops and the fun of sharing farm duties.Kul Kul Farm BaliJl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Br. Saren, Abiansemal, BadungE-mail: kul@kulkulfarm.com

Limbo Hip Every ThursdayStarts 8:30 p.m.LacalitaJl. Raya Batu Bolong No. 68, Canggu

Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, SundayLive MusicEvery Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, SaturdaySalsa DanceEvery SundayMade’s WarungJl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta: (0361) 755297

Petani Restaurant Special Performances Every Friday – BalawanStarts 7:30 p.m.Alaya UbudJl. Hanoman, Ubud: (0361) 972200

Sunday Brunch and Bazaar by The BeachSept. 6 and 20From 11 a.m. – 7 p.m.Byrdhouse Beach ClubSegara Village Hotel, Sanur

Sunset Beach Bar & GrillEvery SaturdayChill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality.Intercontinental Bali ResortJl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran: (0361) 701888

Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1. Meads Boutique Villas HotelJl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa: (0361) 776604

Food & Drinks

DEnpaSaR Black Canyon AmarisJl. Teuku Umar No. 139, Denpasar: (0361) 9378042 / 9378043

KERoboKanBumbak Coffee Authentic Umalas coffee.Jl. Bumbak No. 170, Kerobokan

KutaBlack Canyon Discovery Shopping MallJl. Kartika Plaza : (0361) 3700379

tubanBlack Canyon Ngurah Rai International Airport : (0361) 8491805

Activities

Courses

Dance Lessons Dance for life. Jl. TangkubanPerahu No. 100x: (0361) 7452045

W presents Late Night Session with Pan – Pot(Second Stage/Ger)

Sept. 10From 10 p.m. – 4 a.m.

Woobar at W Retreat BaliJl. Petitenget, Seminyak : (0361) 4738106

Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com

ART & CULTURE CORNER

CangguChildren’s Art Classes

Sept. 5Arland Studio

Jl. Raya Babakan No. 84, Canggu: 0813 380 31177 (Darius) or 0819 990 96277

DenpasarBarong & Keris Dance

EverydayStarts 9 a.m.

Jl. Waribang No. 11 Kesiman, Denpasar: (0361) 224596

JimbaranKecak & Fire Dance

EverydayStarts 6 p.m.

Uluwatu TempleJimbaran, Badung: (0361) 9041163

KutaTraditional & Modern Performances

Every day (Except Wednesday)Starts 8 p.m.Kuta Theater

Jl. Kartika Plaza No. 8X, Kuta: (0361) 762750

Gamelan Course – Mekar BhuanaLearn more about Balinese culture and music.Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar

: (0361) 464 201

Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures.Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud

: (0361) 7451413 or 976220

Sherrat Gallery/ BCACSurrealism painting and art class with Bruce SherratJl. Raya Andong Gg. Sawah, Ubud (between Gangga Sukta and BSA cargo)

: (0361) 978617 www.baliartclasses.com

Silversmithing Classes – Studio Perak Recommended by Lonely Planet. A relaxing place to explore your creativity and make that piece of silver jewelry you’ve been dreaming about! Jl. Hanoman, Ubud. : (0361) 974244info@studioperak.com Tour & Travel Agent

Perama Tour & TravelBali, Lombok, Flores, all over Indonesia.Easy and safe at a reasonable price, all for your convenience.Head OfficeJl. Legian No. 39, Kuta

: (0361) 751551, 751875, 750808www.peramatour.com

Shopping

Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan, Phone (0361) 705454Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu, Phone (0361) 7472303Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 81470919Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran, Phone (0361) 4729081

BintangPerum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, KutaJl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud

Papaya Fresh Gallery Jl. Mertanadi, Kuta

Ubud

Calonarang Dance Every Thursday, Sunday

Starts 7:30 p.m.Mawang Village, Ubud

Legong Dance Every Friday

Starts 7:30 p.m.Balerung Srinertya Waditra (Balerung Mandera)

Br. Teruna, Peliatan, Ubud: (0361) 972124 or 970503

Topeng Jimat Every Wednesday

Starts 7 p.m.ARMA Museum & Resort

Jl. Raya Pengosekan

Simple Guidance When Attending a Temple Ceremony

1. Always wear a sarong and sash. 2. Do not walk in front of people when they are

praying. 3. Do not use flash or point your camera at the priest’s

face.4. Never sit higher than the priest, the offerings and/or

people praying. 5. During cremation ceremonies, do not get in the

way of attendees, however perfect that photographic moment might be.

6. Women are not allowed to enter temples while menstruating.

15September 3, 2015

Gilimanuk

Tanah LotKerobokan

CangguSeminyak

LegianKuta

Jimbaran

Nusa Dua

Benoa

Sanur

Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport

Penida Island

LOVINA

SINGARAJA

BANGLIAMLAPURA

KLUNGKUNG

GIANYAR

DENPASAR

TABANAN

NEGARA

Menjangan Island

Mt. Musi

Besakih

Mt. Sangiang

Pulaki

West BaliNational Park

Sangeh

Pura LuhurUluwatu

Pura Rambut Siwi

Mt. Batur

Pura Batu Madan

Mt. Agung

1

25

4

3

Ubud

Where to go

BIWA Charity BazaarOct. 4

From 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.Lotte Mart

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Denpasar

1

Tjakra 7 SpaPullman Bali Legian Nirwana

Jl. Melasti no. 1, Legian: (0361) 762500

www.pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com

Indonesia Spa & Wellness International Expo and Festival

Sept. 5 – 6The Stones Hotel

Jl. Pantai Kuta, KutaRetreat Program

Sept. 7 – 9Sapu Lidi Resort, Spa & Gallery, Ubud

: 0878 809 12213, 0812 910 01029, 0812 846 64111

www.iswief.com

4

2

5

MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge & Gallery BaliFrench Mediterranean dining in a heavenly setting, an

uber-chic lounge serving scrumptious tapas and cocktails, complemented by top-notch entertainment.

Jl. Petitenget no.6, Kerobokan: (0361) 4737 888

E-mail: info@metisbali.comwww.metisbali.com

3The Butchers ClubThe best burger you can ever imagine!Jl. Cendrawasih, Petitenget, Kerobokan

: (0361) 8974004www.butchersclub.co.hk

16 September 3, 2015