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lorc
aBal
earic
Isle
sSp
ain
Portugal
France
UnitedKingdom
Morocco
Algeria
AtlanticOcean
Madrid
Paris
London
Lisbon
CeutaMelilla
Contents
Introduction 1Description, climate, roads,language and people 2How to get there 4Intineraries and excursions 6Rural Mallorca 26A tour of the city 30Town plan of Palma 34Sport, leisure andentertainment 39Local cuisine 43Trade Fairs and Exhibitions 44Fiestas and festivities 45Things to buy and Handicrafts 45Excursions from Mallorca 46Useful addresses 48
Bay of Biscay
Spain
Mediterranean Sea
Mallorca
710
712
713
711
710
719
715
714
717
715
PM-27
PM-19PM-1
PARQUE NACIONALMARÍTIMO-TERRESTRE
DEL ARCHIPIÉLAGO DE CABRERA
PARQUE NATURALS'ALBUFERA
PARQUE NATURALSA DRAGONERA
PARQUE NATURALCALA MONDRAGÓ
Cala Millor
Deià
Algaida
s'Arenal
ses Salines
Can Picafort
Cala SanVicenç
Port d'Alcúdia
Llubí
Sineu
Binissalem
Santa Mariadel Camí
Puigpunyent
Porreres
s'Estanyolde Migjorn
Cala Figuera
Cala d'Or
Portocolom
Calonge
Portopetro
Cala Blava
Portocristo
sa Coma
Petra
Sencelles
Son Ferriol
Lloret deVista Alegre
Vilafrancade Bonany
María dela Salud
Cala Rajada
Cala MesquidaColònia deSant Pere
Bunyola
Port de Sóller
Selva
sa Calobra
Valldemossa
s'Esgleieta
Campanet
Son Sant Joan
Montuiri
PalmanovaPortals Nous
Santa Ponça
Port d'Andratx
Estellencs Esporles
Paguera
Consell
Port dePollença
Sant Jordi
s'Aranjassa
es Llombards
Colònia deSant Jordi
sa RàpitaCala Pi
Can Pastilla
ses Olleries
Costitx
LlosetaSon Marroig
Magaluf
ses Illetes
Inca
ManacorCalvià
Banyalbufar
Andratx
Sóller
SantaMargalida
Muro
Pollença
Alcúdia
sa Pobla
Son Servera
Artà
Capdepera
Felanitx
Campos
Llucmajor
Santanyí
sa CabanetaMarratxí
PALMA
Cabo Formentor
Cabo Pinar
Cabo d'esLlamp
Cabo deCala Figuera
Cabo Enderrocat
Cabo Blanc
Cabo Salinas
Cabo Farrutx
Punta de saForadada
Bahía deAlcúdia
Bahía dePalma
CONEJERA
Laguna de'sTamarells
M A L L O R C A
Cala de sa
Calobra
Cala Morlanda
Cala Moreia
Cala Bona
Bahíade
Pollença
Ensenada deSanta Ponça
CalaSant Elm
CABRERA
FORMENTOR
Menorca
Mallorca
Ibiza
Formentera
Cabrera
ISLASBALEARES
Cala Portals Vells
Ensenada desa Ràpita
Cala Murta
Cala d'Or
Cala de s'Algar
Cala F
iguer
a
Cala d
e San
t Vice
nç
Cala deDeiá
Cala deses Ortigues
Cala Mondragóes Trenc
Platjade Palma
MA R M E D
IT
ER
RÁ
NE
O
Cala Arsenau
Cala Magraner
Cala Estany
Cala Manacor
CalaCanyamel
Cala dePeña Rotja
Cala d'es Clot
CalaSollerich
CalaCodolar
Bahía deSóller
Cala deValldemossa
Cala C
arril
Cala MarmolsCala Entugores
SI E
RR
A
DE
TR
AM
UN
TA
NA
Mayor1445
Roig1000
Galatzó1026
Tex1064
Cuevas del Drac
Cuevas dels Hams
Cueva de Artà
Santuario deSant Salvador
Santuario de Cura
AutovíaCtra. autonómica 2º ordenCarretera localFerrocarrilParque naturalMonasterioCastilloMonumentoRuinasCuevasGolfCampingBalnearioPuerto deportivoFaroAeropuerto
N
CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35Tel. 91 416 73 41 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 1999
25 Km.0 10 20
Freeway“B” RoadLocal RoadRailwayNature ReserveMonasteryCastleMonumentHistoric ruinsCavesGolf courseCamp siteSpaMarinaLighthouseAirport
Welcome!Mallorca is the ideal choice fora holiday. Island of tranquillity;isle of light and beauty. Ahaven of peace where life stillgoes by at an agreeable,unhurried pace and there areno nagging worries or anxietiesto mar the contemplation ofbeauty.
In summer, the sun and thebeaches are an open invitationto relaxation. But whatever thetime of year, Mallorca is joyousand carefree.
In winter, the island mantlesitself in the glory of itsinnumerable almond trees.Santiago Ruisiñol has painteda canvas in which headmirably expresses the call ofspring of the almond blossom.Mallorca, eternal Spring.
Mallorca is sea and mountainbasking beneath aMediterranean sun. Mallorcais scenery, and art, and thewarmth of its friendlyhospitable inhabitants.Welcome to Mallorca!
1
Alcúdia Bay
Description, climate, roads,language and peopleEurope’s paradise, an islandopen to the world for relaxationand entertainment. Mallorca,with an area of 3,640 squarekilometres (just over 1,000 sq.miles), is the largest of theBalearic Isles. On Mallorca,Nature, be it mountainside orcoast, is a feast. Rearing abovethe Tramuntana Range is theisland’s highest peak, Puig Mayor(close on 5,000 ft.). Mallorca’s340 miles of coastline are itschief attraction, with coves andbeaches rivalling each other inmagic and charm.
Not only have traces of Judaicand Islamic cultures been foundon Mallorca, but richly endowedsettlements bear eloquenttestimony to Roman times. In
1229, King James I conqueredthe island and the Kingdom ofMallorca was born. Mallorca wasfirstly annexed to the Kingdomof Aragon under James III, andsubsequently to Spain itself,coinciding with the politicalunification of the country in1492 under the CatholicMonarchs, Ferdinand and Isabel.Nowadays, Mallorca forms partof the Balearic Isles (Illes Balears),one of Spain’s AutonomousRegions.
Mallorca enjoys an enviableMediterranean climate of hotsummers and mild winters. In thecity of Palma, the island capital,the annual average temperatureis 20ºC. In the mountain areastemperatures are lower and inwinter, snow on the highestridges is not an unusual sight. In
2
Fornalutx
autumn and winter, the north ofthe island receives a moderaterainfall and is generouslyforested with holm oak, pineand olive. Spring and summerbrings splendid sunshine, to beenjoyed on beaches of finewhite sand. Coveted blue-pennant status has beenawarded by the European Unionto a number of Mallorca’sbeaches in recognition of theirbeing safe, clean and welltended.
Mallorca enjoys a good roadnetwork for those wishing to getabout by car. Three motorwayshead out of Palma, bound forthe airport and Llucmajor (A-19),Palmanova-Andratx (A-1) andInca-Alcúdia (A-27).
The official languages areCastilian Spanish and Catalán(Mallorquín). In tourist resorts,hotels and restaurants, Englishand German are also spoken.The bulk of tourists come fromGermany, England and theSpanish mainland.
Mallorca has a population of615,000, half of whom live in thecapital. Mallorcans, whiletending to be serious andreserved, are extremely politeand hospitable.
3
Capdepera. Cala Son Moll
How to get there
PLANEPalma’s Son Sant Joan airportlies eight kilometres from thecapital. Direct and connectingflights, scheduled and charter,link Palma with all mainEuropean destinations. Thereare daily scheduled domesticflights to Madrid, Barcelona,Valencia and Alicante, as wellas to other cities aroundSpain. Buses leave the airportfor the city centre (Plaza deEspaña) every 15 minutes, andfrom here, buses can then betaken to other points andtowns on the island. At theairport, there is a permanenttaxi rank and a number of car-rental agencies.
FERRYThe Trasmediterránea FerryLine plies between Palma andBarcelona, Valencia, Ibiza andMenorca (daily roundtrips).The ships are comfortable,being equipped with cabins,armchair-style seating and abar and restaurant service.The Flebasa Line covers thePalma-Ibiza-Denia (Alicante)routes. The vessels used arecar ferries. As from December1996, a new rapid ferry servicecame into operation, linkingPalma with the mainland in4 hours.
ACCOMMODATIONBefitting its importance as atourist centre, Mallorca hasover one thousand hotels.There are hotels for all tastesand pockets, including 5- and4-star luxury hotels, and verycomfortable 3- and 2-starhotels, situated, for the most
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Cala Esmeralda
5
part, in the capital and seasidetowns and villages. In the highseason, visitors arerecommended to book ahead.The Tourist Information Officeat the airport will furnishinformation on hotels,locations and categories.
Another form of lodging isavailable in the island’s interior,namely, estates and countrycottages given over to agri- andrural tourism, where the visitorcan be in direct contact withthe countryside in a familyenvironment (for agritourism informationkindly call, Avenida GabrielAlomar i Villalonga, 8A, 2º A,
07006 Palma. 971 72 15 08 - Fax: 971 71 73 17.e-mail: [email protected]).
USEFUL INFORMATIONThe peseta is the nationalcurrency. Money can beexchanged at the airport itselfor at any bank. Bank openingtimes are 8:30 a.m. - 2 p.m.,Monday to Saturday. Mostestablishments (shops,restaurants, hotels, etc.)accept credit cards.
Port d’Andratx
Itineraries and excursions
Palma
Valldemossa
Deià
Sóller
Valldemossa lying 17kilometres from Palma alongthe s’Esgleieta road, is famous,among other reasons, for theCarthusian Monastery, knownas La Cartuja, where FrédéricChopin and Georges Sandspent the winter of 1838-1839.The monastery (closedSundays), with its distinctivegreen-tiled belfry, rises headand shoulders above thetown. In the church, there arefrescoes by Miguel Bayeu,Goya’s brother-in-law. Thecloister encloses a beautifulgarden, where summer
concerts are held, with famouspianists playing Chopin’sworks. The “Pleyel” pianowhich the Polish musiciancaused to be brought fromParis can still be seen here.
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Valldemossa
Cabo d'esLlamp
Punta de saForadada
Mayor1445
Roig1000
Galatzó1026
Tex1064
Bahía dePalma
Cala de saCalobra
Ensenada deSanta Ponça
CalaSant Elm
Cala deDeià
Cala deses Ortigues
Platjade Palma
PARQUENATURAL
SA DRAGONERA
SA DRAGONERA
PalmanovaPortals Nous
Estellencs
Paguera
Banyalbufar
Can Pastilla
ses Olleries
Lloseta
713
710
719
715
PM-27
PM-19PM-1
711
Deià
s'Arenal
Port de Sóller
sa Calobra
Valldemossa
Son Sant Joan
PalmaCalvià
Sóller
Andratx
Santa Ponças'Aranjassa
sa Cabaneta
Consell
Binissalem Inca
Esporles
Port d'Andratx
Marratxí
Santa Mariadel Camí
Sencelles
Algaida
Son Marroig
S I E R R A D E
T R A MU N T A N A
Further points of interestinclude the monks’ pharmacy(17th century)and the Prior’scell, now a museum andlibrary. Worth seeing in thetown are King Sancho’s Palace(Palacio del Rey Sancho) andthe House of Santa CatalinaThomas. Valldemossa is one ofthe most picturesque and bestconserved towns on Mallorca.
Superb panoramic vistas,through olive groves and outto sea, can be had from
the C-710 corniche road fromValldemossa to Deià. In SonMarroig one should make astop and take in the sightfrom the cliffs, easily one ofthe most stunning views ofthe entire Mallorcan coastline.Here is Na Foradada, thefamous rock weathered andpierced by wind and wave.Before resuming one’sjourney, a visit should be paidto the House-cum-Museum ofthe Archduke Ludwig Salvatorof Austria (Casa Museo delArchiduque Luis Salvador).
Continuing along the sameroad (C-710), flanked by thetwisted trunks of ancientolives, one arrives in Deià(population, 600). The villagestraggles along a hillside.Robert Graves, author
Valldemossa. Son Marroig
of “I, Claudius”, chose Deià ashis home, and lies buried here,in the romantic graveyard ofthe village church. The village,with its old island-stylehouses, has remaineduntouched by time and is afavourite haunt of artists andpainters. Here one can enjoy apleasant stroll (two kilometresdown to the sea) and relax ina delightful, secluded cove.
The road descends to Sóller(14 kilometres from Deià),traversing a valley studdedwith orange trees. Sóller is aprosperous city (population,10,500) with imposing
seigneurial houses andpalatial mansions built byemigrants returning fromFrance. The parish church,built in 1912, was designed bythe architect, Juan Rubió iBellver, a disciple of Gaudí ‘s.A visit to the Balearic NaturalSciences Museum (Museo
8
Deià
Sóller train
Balear de Ciencias Naturales)is well worthwhile (Port deSóller, closed Mondays).
One can get to Port de Sóllerby taking a typical tram-ride,an experience to berecommended. From Port deSóller, boats leave for thecreek of sa Calobra, a beachthat is a veritable spectacle ofNature. One can return toPalma via the Sóller Tunnel,which links the two cities (the C-711).
9
Port de Sóller
Sa Calobra. Torrent de Pareis
Punta de saForadada
Mayor1445
Tex1064
Bahía dePalma
Cala de saCalobra
Cala deDeià
Platjade Palma
Portals NousCan Pastilla
Deià
ses
Marratxí
Son Sant Joan
Esporles
s'Aranjassa
Palma
Port de Sóller
Sóller
sa Calobr
Santa Mariadel Camí Consell
Llos
sa Cabaneta
Valldemossa
S I E R R A D E
T R A
Binissalem
713
711
710
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PM-27
PM-19
Palma
Manacor
Portcristo
Cuevas del Drac
Artà
There’s not a tourist whoreturns home without havingcrossed the threshold of themagical world carved beneathMallorca’s limestone core by thetimeless dripping of water... theCaverns. In all, there are some800 of these caverns, but onlyfive are open to visitors: theDrach, Hams, Artà, Campanetand Génova Caves.
The C-715 traverses the oldmarket-garden area of Palma,where cattle graze and typicalwindmills are seen, lending thelandscape its altogether uniquelook. Over to the right, is thecity’s Son Sant Joan Airport, itsnewly opened terminal built tosolve problems of imminentsaturation; only recently, thepassenger-handling facilitiessurpassed the 15-million mark.
Standing by the roadside is amodern castle-like constructionhousing the Gordiola
Algaida. Can Gordiola. Glass Museum
Cabo Formentor
Cabo Pinar
Cabo Farrutx
Roig1000
Bahía deAlcúdia
Cala Morlanda
Cala Moreia
Cala Bona
Cala Millor
Bahíade
Pollença
FORMENTOR
Cala Murta
Cala Fig
uera
Cala de S
ant V
icenç
Port d'Alcúdia
Port dePollença
Sineu
Olleries715
Cuevasdel Drac
Cuevasdels Hams
AlgaidaPortocristo
Vilafrancade BonanyMontuiri
Manacor
Son Servera
Artà
Capdepera
ra
Pollença
Llubí
l
seta Inca
sa Pobla
Muro
Alcúdia
PetraSencelles
Costitx
A MU N T A N A
PARQUE NATURALS'ALBUFERA
Cuevade Artà
710
712
715
Glassworks, where handmadeglass is still blown in thetraditional manner. The GlassMuseum (Museo de Vidrio),located on the top floor, is thebest and most complete inEurope (no entrance charge).
Passing by Algaida, situatednear the road, and a little later,Montuiri, off to the left, onearrives in Vilafranca deBonany. Driving on throughthe town, one sees the localproduce, principally melons andgarlic, laid out and displayed bythe side of the road. The claysoils in the district are ideal formaking tiles and bricks.
Manacor (population, 30,000)is both the district capital andan industrial city, specialising infurniture and cultured pearls. Avisit to the world-renownedPerlas Majórica plant is a
Son Sant Joan. Typical mill
12
“must”. Other sights worthseeing in Manacor are thecathedral-like Neogothicchurch, St. Dominic’s Cloister(Claustro de Santo Domingo)and the Regional Museum.Taking the coastbound road,the next stop is Portocristo, ascenic seaside village. Fishing
boats and pleasure craft bob attheir moorings in the quietwaters of the inlet.
Lying concealed across thewater are Mallorca’s mostfamous caverns, the DracCaves (Coves del Drac), afantasy world of stalactites andstalagmites. The name “Drac”comes from the dragon which,legend has it, once guarded theentrance. A combination ofstrategic lighting and classicalmusic accompanies the boatridearound Lake Martel, the largestsubterranean lake in the world.Guided tours in groups last twohours. Two kilometres away arethe Hams Caves (Coves dels
Manacor. Cloister of Monastery of SanVicente Ferrer
Portocristo
13
Hams), somewhat lessgrandiose, with stalactitesshaped like fish-hooks.
On the way to Son Servera,the Autosafari game park canbe visited, where free-roamingAfrican wildlife lends an exotictouch to the landscape. Incisingthe nearby coast are anexquisite and, in summer,popular series of inlets, creeksand coves (calas): CalaMorlanda, Cala Moreia, CalaMillor, Cala Bona, etc.
Head, via Son Servera, forCapdepera and, once throughthe tunnel, take the turn-off tothe Artà Caves. An enormousochre-coloured towerdominates the localcountryside, the CanyamelTower, a structure dating fromthe end of the 12th century, a
contemporary of Seville’slandmark Giralda Tower. Downby the shore, the naturallyformed pointed archway ofgigantic proportions that is themouth of the Gruta de Artàappears, a supernaturalgeological wonder, which hasbeen compared to the infernalsetting of Dante’s DivineComedy.
The return trip takes in Artà,where the medieval castle, St.Saviour’s Church (Santuario deSan Salvador) and the RegionalMuseum (closed weekends) areall worth a visit.
Artà cave
Palma
Santa Ponça
Andratx
Banyalbufar
La Granja
Heading westwards along theseafront drive, one leaves thecity via the A-1 motorway andsoon comes to Palmanova,which sprawls and mergeswith Magaluf, a major touristresort in the Calvià municipaldistrict, blessed with superbbeaches and top-flight hotelfacilities. Nearby are PortalsNous and Puerto Portals, withits elegant harbour sidewalkcafés. Across the way is theMarineland aquapark, with itsfamous dolphin show.
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Santa Ponça
Portals Nous. Harbour
Cabo d'esLlamp
Cabo deCala Figuera
Cabo Enderrocat
Punta de saForadada
Galatzó1026
Tex1064
Bahía dePalma
Ensenada deSanta Ponça
CalaSant Elm
Cala Portals Vells
Cala deDeià
Cala deses Ortigues
Platjade Palma
PARQUE NATURALSA DRAGONERA
SA DRAGONERA
Can Pastilla
Deià
Port de Sóller
PM-1719
s'ArenalPalmanova
Portals Nous
Santa Ponça
Port d'Andratx
Estellencs Esporles
Paguera
PalmaCalvià
Banyalbufar
Andratx
SI E
RR
A
DE
T RA
MU
NT A
NA
Marratxí
Valldemossa
711
710 PM-27
All these places are wellsignposted at crossroads andintersections.
Taking the C-719, which is thecontinuation of themotorway, one gets to SantaPonça, marking the site
where the Christian forces ofJames I landed prior to theirrecapturing the island fromthe Moors (the Reconquista),an event commemoratedevery year on 9th September.Today, Santa Ponça, with its
15
Andratx. Cape sa Mola
16
pine-fringed beach,restaurants and yacht club, is aholiday and residential town.Good, well tended golfcourses are to be found in thispart of the Calvià district.
Port d’Andratx , a fishingharbour in which fishing boatsride at anchor alongsidepleasure craft. In summerluxury yachts berth here. Thetown of Andratx, ensconced inthe valley some distance fromthe harbour, huddles aroundthe old castle-fort which oncedefended it from the threat ofinvasion.
From Sant Elm beach, sa Dragonera island can beseen. The island is now an
officially declared Nature Reserve, a living museum ofBalearic fauna and flora.
Leaving Andratx, one takesthe C-710 corniche road,which clings to the cliffsideand is flanked on both sidesby stunning scenery. Estellencsis followed by Banyalbufar(from the original Arabic, Ban-al-bahar), with its steep,
Sant Elm beach
Sa Dragonera
twisting cobbled streets,terraced fields and orchards.
On the way back to Palma, avisit should be made to LaGranja, near Esporles.La Granja is a magnificent
mansion with anextraordinary Museum ofEthnography, in which farmimplements and traditionalhandicraft tools and artefactsare displayed, along with afine selection of furniture anddomestic utensils. The visitor is treated to hot fritters(buñuelos), wine and otherdelicacies of Mallorcan cuisine.
17
Banyalbufar
Esporles. La Granja mansion
Cabo d'esLlamp
C
Punta de saForadada
Galatzó1026
Te106
Bahía dPalma
Ensenada deSanta Ponça
Cala Portals Vells
Cala dDeià
Cala deses Ortigues
C
Po
PalmanovaPortals Nous
Santa Ponça
Estellencs
Paguera
Banyalbufar
PalmaCalvià
Vallde
Andratx
Esporles
S I E R R A D E
710
719PM-1
Palma
Inca
Alcúdia
Pollença
Formentor
By taking the old C-713 road inpreference to the modernmotorway, one gets the chance ofenjoying closer contact with thecountryside and the people.Almond and carob trees line theroute. Santa Maria del Camíis the first town en route. It wasfounded by the Romans in 100 B.C.Consell is a small town, with goodwine and a taste for handicrafts,e.g., wrought iron, ceramicware,alpargatas (traditional rope andcanvas sandals), glassware,needlework, kitchen knives,furniture and the like.
Binissalem
Cabo Pinar
Cabo Enderrocat
Mayor1445
Roig1000
ex64
Bahía deAlcúdia
dea
Cala de saCalobra
Bahíade
Pollença
Cala Murta
Cala Fig
uera
Cala de S
ant V
icenç
deà
Platjade Palma
Algaida
Petra
Can Pastilla
Manacor
Llubí
Sineu
LlosetaDeià
ort de Sóller
sa Calobra
Sóller
Formentor
Cabo Formentor
Port d'Alcúdia
Binissalem
Santa Mariadel Camí Consell
Port dePollença
Pollença
Alcúdia
Marratxí
mossa
sa CabanetaSencelles
Costitx
Muro
sa Pobla
ses Olleries
s'Aranjassa
Son Sant Joan
Llucmajor
Montuiri
s'Arenal
Vilafrancade Bonany
E T R A M
U N T A N A
PARQUE NATURALS'ALBUFERA
710
712
713
711
715
714
715
PM-27
PM-19
Inca
The sight of a Norman spire fromafar announces Binissalem (fromthe Arabic, “sons of Salem”).Grand houses with palatialpretensions abound. Already inthe 15th century, the town wasfamed for its wines and Benissalemhas now given its name to thelocal seal of origin (similar toFrance’s Appelation d’OrigineCôntroléé) for full-bodied reds of12-13% strength whose fame,according to Jules Verne, “extendsfar beyond the confines of theBalearics”.
Housed in the castle-like Foro deMallorca is the HistoricalWaxworks Museum (MuseoHistórico de Figuras de Cera)where important episodes andfigures in Mallorcan history areexhibited, from the times of thetraditional island warrior armedwith a sling (hondero) down to the
present. The next stop is Inca,Mallorca’s third largest town (pop.22,000). Here the leather industry-footware in particular- is themain activity. The Church of SantaMaría la Mayor is simply magnificent. Good food can be
Inca. Church
20
had at the local “cellers” (wine-cellar-type bistros), which specialisein regional cuisine, and thesavoury crunchy biscuits, known asgalletes d’Inca or gallets fortes(a distant relative of the traditionalship’s biscuit) are a popularfavourite. Carrying on, one sooncomes to the outskirts of sa Pobla.These are fertile fields, landreclaimed from the salt marshes, aHerculean task. In the town thereis a monument bearing the legend“als poblers que varem fer sesmarjals” (to the inhabitants of sa Pobla who dried themarshes).The soil hereabouts yields
three harvests a year: potatoes,haricot beans and vegetables. Thetown’s principal fiesta is famous, ariot of noise, with bonfires,demons and devils on the loose,and generalised mayhem andmerrymaking...the rite of fire, anancestral rite.Nearby is the former Albufera(marshland), today a NatureReserve and a nesting site for
birdlife -indigenous andmigratory- an ornithologist’sparadise. At the end of the roadlies the medieval town of Alcúdia,with its reconstructed rampartsand walls, and two impressivegates, the Palma or Sant SebastiàGate and the Xara or Del PortGate. The Church of Sant Jaume(St. James’) is a magnificent sight.One mile south, in the direction ofthe harbour, is the Roman Theatre,the smallest of its kind in Spain, itstiers carved out of the rock in asmall declivity.Port d’Alcúdia: business, fishingand tourism make this a residentialand shopping centre. With its portarea, Alcúdia has a population often thousand, which in summerswells to ten times that figure. Asuperb stretch of beach and goodhotel facilities account for thisgrowing summer influx.
Pollença Bay (Bahía de Pollença)is one of the smallest and yet mostexquisite of Mallorca’s bays, a
Alcúdia. Sant Sebastià gate
Port de Pollença
21
medallion of transparent blue,sparkling between the encirclingarms of Capes Pinar andFormentor. Port de Pollença isthe next stop, its charms praised bypoets and immortalised by artists.As one of Mallorca’s pioneertourist resorts, it has earned itself aname for excellence, both inservice and quality. Boats leavefrom here for Formentor, takinghalf-an-hour to complete thecrossing. One can also drive there(and go all the way to thelighthouse on the point) via aspectacular, cliff- andmountainside road. En route, onepasses the belvedere or lookout,known as Mirador d’es Colomer, avertical rock sheering away to adrop of 760 feet.
Formentor. A beach of fine whitesand stretches down to crystallinewaters surrounding the untouchedisle in the bay. Here, fronting ontothe beach and partly screened by aflowering terraced garden, standsa stately luxury hotel, theacknowledged glory of the
Mallorcan hotel world, frequentedby a select clientele, including,among others, famouspersonalities and leading figuresfrom the performing arts, politicsand other walks of life.The town of Pollença lies at thefoot of its calvari hill, with itschapel and cypress-borderedstairway of 365 steps, along whichthe devallament procession(descent from the cross) passes onGood Friday. The town’s mainchurch is imposing, whilst the
cloister of St. Dominic’s (SantoDomingo) serves as the venue forthe Summer Music Festival. In theenvirons, to the north of the town,is a small yet well-preservedRoman bridge over the Torrentede Sant Jordi (St. George’s Torrent),an invaluable testimony to theRoman occupation in the 4th century.
Pollença. Calvary hill
Formentor beach
Llucmajor
Felanitx
Santanyí
Colònia de Sant Jordi
Cabrera
Take the airport motorway to theLlucmajor and Manacor turn-off,and a little further on, to theright, but still heading in thedirection of Llucmajor, lies thebucolic hamlet of Sant Jordi, withits windmills and reclaimedmarshland. Passing the village ofs’Aranjassa, the road climbs andemerges onto a plateau coveredwith low bush and thicket, knownlocally as garriga. Soon the solid
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Cabo deCala Figuera
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silhouette of the 18th-centuryparish church of Llucmajor, withits soaring bell tower, appears onthe horizon. In the town stands across, marking the spot whereKing James III, the last of theHouse that ruled over the short-lived medieval kingdom ofMallorca, met his death.
From Llucmajor one can drive upto the Cura Monastery (SantuarioMonasterio de Cura), medieval inorigin. Nearby is the grotto towhich Ramón Llull, the 14th -century philosopher, theologian,mystic and father figure of
Catalonian culture, retired for atime, when he renounced theluxuries and indulgences of courtlife for a life of poverty, study andcontemplation. In the 16thcentury, Cura housed a GrammarSchool (imparting instruction inLatin and the Arts). Today, monksof the Franciscan Order occupythe site. The church is truly lovelyand commands a fine view ofseemingly infinite horizons.
For the next leg of the journey toCampos, one has to return toLlucmajor. Just where the roadbegins, one can visit a windmill,
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Cabo Blanc
Cabo Salinas
Ensenada desa Ràpita
Cala d'Or
Cala de s'Algar
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Platjade Palma
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restored down to the last detailand a superb example of thosewhere cereals were once groundfor a multure, the fee or tollexacted in kind. It is perhaps theonly windmill left on the islandthat could begin milling rightaway.
Campos is a farm town, with abeautiful church and a typicalquarter, which is a finerepresentative sample oftraditional Mallorcan architecture,as are both Llucmajor andSantanyí, our next staging post.
Before arriving in Santanyí, theSon Danús talaiot (also, talayot) ,arrogant and majestic, loomsbefore one. It was in the BronzeAge when the so-called talaiotculture made its appearance.These megalithic structures taketheir name from the Arabic“atalaia”, the word for watchtower. Talaiots were built on acircular or quadrangulargroundplan and served asdwellings and look-out posts inthe island’s fortifications.
Santanyí is home to a charmingchurch, which houses themonumental organ brought bysea and land from St. Dominic’sMonastery in Palma in 1837. Alsowithin the municipal boundariesis the cove of Cala Mondragó, setin privileged naturalsurroundings. Lying a shortdistance off is the city ofFelanitx, its sumptuous 13th-century parish church a mix ofGothic, Renaissance andChurrigueresque. The town layoutmight have been purpose-designed for leisurely strolling,with its row of windmills lookingdown from the ridge. Felanitxceramicware is the best on theisland. Once in Felanitx, it is worththe effort to make the climb to St.Saviour’s Monastery (Santuario deSan Salvador), a stunninghermitage some 2,000 feet abovesea level.
Santanyí. Typical courtyard
Santanyí. Cala s’Almunia
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Not far away, perched on animpregnable outcrop of rock, arethe ruins of Santueri Castle. Fromthese heights, one now makes thedescent seawards to visit thecoves of Cala Ferrer, Cala d’Or,Portopetro, Cala Mondragó, CalaFiguera and then back toSantanyí. From here, the roadwanders on to es Llombards, sesSalines and Colònia Sant Jordi.
Colònia San Jordi is a smallfishing harbour, with a finebeach. Nowadays the area is a
good-sized popular tourist resort.Offshore lies the island ofCabrera, the first ever officiallydeclared Sea & Land NationalPark.
Cabrera and its toy port; Cabreraand its castle; Cabrera and its tinyarchipelago, floating in an intenseturquoise sea, washed by limpid,translucent waters... The island
boasts an underwater treasuretrove, with a great variety of fish,echinoderms (starfish, sea-urchinsetc.) and crustaceans. Its shoresand cliffs are home to a widevariety of birdlife, and highoverhead, ospreys and peregrinefalcons swoop and soar. Touristscan apply for permits to visitCabrera (National Park
971 72 55 85).
Leaving Colònia behind, onemakes for the spa of Balneario deSant Joan de la Fontsanta, theonly thermal springs on Mallorca.From here, crossing Salobrar deCampos, one of the island’swetland areas, one then gets tothe nudist beach of es Trenc, anda little farther on, ses Covetesbeach.
An interesting route is the onethat goes via sa Rapita and Cala Pito the talaiot settlement ofCapocorb Vell, a major andextremely well-preserved site,which the archaeologist, GiovanniLilliu, described as, “one of themost important megalithiccomplexes in the westernMediterranean”.
The final stretch of the return tripfollows the coastal road to thecosmopolitan holiday resort areasof s’Arenal and Can Pastilla,overlooking the superb Playa dePalma beach.
Colònia Sant Jordi. Beach
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Cabo d'esLlamp Ensenada de
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Sencelles
Rural Mallorca
Sineu
Petra
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Lloseta
Consell
This is a modest route in termsof scenery and sights. Yet it isprecisely here that one canfind, still intact, the time-honoured traditions andlifestyles of Mallorca’s people.Follow the old Inca road (C-713) past the primitive Son Bonet aerodrome andturn down to sa Cabaneta andses Olleries, in the Marratxímunicipal district. Potters’workshops abound in theseparts, the local clays lendingtheir wares a warm honeycolour.
Travelling on throughvineyards, one passes SantaMaria del Cami on the left and
Cabo deCala Figuera
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Santa Eugènia on the right, toarrive in Biniali, an oldMoorish hamlet. Sencelles isa mite bigger: parish churchand steeple rise above thereddish hues of thetraditional, authenticallyMallorcan architecture of the
town centre. Costitx is tiny,typical and tranquil,surrounded by evergreen
Costitx. Son Corró
fields. The villagers take pridein their astronomicalobservatory. The Museum ofBalearic Fauna (Museo de laFauna Balear), where there isa wide range of stuffedanimals on display, isinteresting.
Sineu is the largest townalong this route. It is locatedin the geographical centre ofthe island, and in bygonedays, it was here that the medieval monarchs had theirpalace, today converted into amonastery. The church ismagnificent, and, in the town,there are excellent cellers(wine-cellar-type bistros)offering tasty regional cooking.The frito mallorquín is to berecommended. The way now leads on toPetra, birthplace of theFranciscan Friar, Junípero Serra,
founder of the originalCalifornian missions fromwhich a good part of theState’s present-day towns andcities grew and flourished. InPetra, the house whereJunípero Serra was born, theSan Bernadino Monasterywhere he was educated andthe parish church where he wasbaptised should all be visited.
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Sineu
Petra. Frar Junipero´s house
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Muro too is worth seeing.Here the architecture is typicalof the Mallorcan plain, thebuildings being made fromlimestone blocks (marés).There is a good church, thelovely La Sang chapel and anexcellent EthnologicalMuseum. The bullring is rathercurious, in that it has beenhammered and chiselled outof the cavity left by a formermarés quarry.
Sa Pobla, with its wide swatheof fertile farmland, lies off tothe right, but it is preferable
to go via Llubi to Inca. A stone’s throw from Inca, inLloseta, there is amagnificent palace belongingto the Marquis de Ayamans.From Lloseta the roaddescends to Binissalem, atown famed for its excellentred wine, reds which arecomparable to those of LaRioja. All that remains now isto go through the town ofConsell and one will findoneself on the way back toPalma.
Muro. Church
Lloseta. Ayamans Palace
A tour of the cityPalma, the old quarter
Palma is the capital of theBalearic Isles, and was founded bythe Romans in 120 B.C. At thattime, the Romans already called itPalma. The Moors -from 903 A.D.-called it Madina’t Mayurga, andthe Catalonians, following theisland’s recapture in 1229,renamed it Ciutat de Mallorques.These days it is known by theislanders as Palma or Ciutat.
The city tour begins in the Parc dela Mar (1). Like some mirror, thelake reflects the image of theCathedral. At the foot of thestairway, stands a bronze piece byLlorenç Roselló, representing theBalearic hondero (warrior armedwith a sling), the mythicalinhabitant of these parts. Along
one wall is a mural by Joan Miróand a scupture group by JosepGuinovart. The stairs take one upto La Almudaina (2) -theCitadella (Citadel)-fortress/residence of the MoorishWalis’ Caliphate (11th-13thcenturies) and subsequently thepalace of James II (14th century).In this fine example of civic Gothicarchitecture, attention should bedrawn to the medieval bronzesculpture of the Angel Gabriel,keeping guard from its perch atopone of the four slender towers. A series of elegant Gothic andRennaisance halls and rooms areto be found inside. It is theSpanish Royal Family’s officialresidence on Mallorca, as well asbeing the H.Q. for the BalearicsMilitary High Command (visitingtimes: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. daily; closedSaturday afternoons and Sundays.
971 71 43 68).
30
Palma. Parc de la Mar
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Opposite the Almudaina standsthe magnificent edifice that isPalma Cathedral (3), known toMallorcans as La Seu. Gothic instyle, it dates from the 14th-16thcenturies. On its exterior, the southor Mirador door (overlooking thesea), is one of the true gems ofSpanish Gothic. The other façadesare the Rennaisance-Style MajorPortal (west) and the northernl’Almoina Door, through whichone enters. Towering above is thebelfry, with the massive N’Eloi bell,which weighs over 5,000 kilos andcan be heard many miles away. Inthe interior, a surface area of 6,600square metres (7,894 square yards)is divided into a nave and twoaisles, the nave being one of thewidest and highest in the world.The splendid rose window over themain altar at the west end is 11metres in diameter and covers 97 square metres. It, together with
the other rose and large picturewindows, are the work of thearchitect, Gaudí. The aisles giveonto eighteen side-chapels. Ofthese, the Mudejar-Style TrinitatChapel, is the oldest and serves asthe burial place of James II andJames III, erstwhile monarchs ofthe Kingdom of Mallorca. TheCathedral Museum is worth seeing(visiting times: 10 a.m.-6:30 p.m.daily; closed Sundays and PublicHolidays. 971 72 31 30).
Palma. La Almudaina (fortress/residence)
Palma. City Hall
The street running along theAlmudaina leads into the Plaza deCort, site of the City Hall(Ayuntamiento) (4). Thebuilding’s façade, in a styledubbed Palma Baroque (17thcentury), features an overhanging3-metre eave. Inside, in the mainhall, portraits of Mallorca’s mostillustrious sons line the walls.
Three seigneurial mansions are tobe found in the vicinity: CanCorbella, done in the Neo-Mudejarstyle (19th century); Can FortezaRey and the El Águila building,Modernist in style; and, in CanSavella street, the Palau Vivot(18th century), arches andCorinthian columns adorning itscentral courtyard.
Leading off Cort Square, a turntakes one into Santa EulàliaSquare. The 13th-century Gothic
Church of St. Eulàlia (5) is oneof the oldest in Palma. TakingCalle (calle or carrer: street)Arquitecto Reynés, one gets to St.Francis’ (San Francisco) (6),another of Palma’s historicchurches. Its Gothic cloister isconsidered particularly valuable,as is the Plateresque portaltympanum by Francisco Herrera.Outside is the statue of FriarJunípero Serra, the Mallorcanevangelist who took his messageto California; and inside, the tombof Ramón Llull, medieval mysticand philosopher.
Leaving St. Eulalia’s, the Calle deMorey brings one to the OldQuarter (7). On the right, standsthe Roman Arch of theAlmudaina; on the left, thePalacio Can Oleza, a delightful
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Palma. Cathedral
33
instance of seigneurial Mallorcanarchitecture. The Calle Platería isthe centre of the old JewishQuarter (Barrio Hebreo Call). A number of Mallorcan surnamestrace their origins to the Jewish(xueta) community. Thesynagogue was once situated onthe site where the MontesiónChurch now stands. This church,with its Baroque frontage andrich interior, was founded by theSociety of Jesus.
In the Calle de Portella is theMallorcan Museum (8). Housed
in an old Mallorcan mansion(1634), its archaeological exhibitsinclude prehistoric, Roman,Moorish and medieval artefacts.Paintings and sculptures are alsodisplayed (closed Mondays.
971 71 75 40). In the Calle deSerra are the 10th-centuryMoorish Baths (Banys Arabs), anexample of Moorish art inMallorca (visiting times: 9 a.m.-7p.m. 971 72 15 49).
Town Plan of Palma
1 Parc de la Mar2 La Almudaina
(fortress/residence)3 Cathedral4 City Hall5 Church of St. Eulàlia6 Church of St. Francis7 Old Quarter8 Mallorcan Museum9 La Llotja
10 Auditorium11 Poble Espanyol12 Bellver Castle
Palma. Mallorcan Museum Palma. Typical courtyard
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Along old alleyways redolent withthe island’s historic past, onemakes one’s way via Socorro streetand the Avenidas, to the Plaza deEspaña, the centre of the moderncity. Standing in a small yet livelygarden is the equestrian statue ofJames I. Opposite are the stations:the railway station for trains toInca and the station for the Trende Sóller, a delightful trainjourney from Palma to Sóller,through the mountains.
The way back takes in the OlivarMarket and Calle de San Miguel, abustling pedestrian shoppingprecinct, which leads one to thePlaza Mayor and, via the City Hall,to the Paseo del Borne.
The splendid Paseo del Borne(Passeig des Born), which begins atthe Plaza de la Reina, is a centraltree-lined walkway, an openinvitation to stroll or just sit on a
bench and read the paper. In olden days, the Borne served asthe site for jousts and tourneys,and as a river bed channellingtorrential flood waters seawards.Today it is a meeting point andleisure area. It comes to an end inthe Plaza de las Tortugas (tortuga:turtle or tortoise), now renamedthe Plaza de Juan Carlos I. Leadingoff to the left is Jaime III Avenue, amodern business district. On theother side is the Plaza Mercat,with the solemn 18th-century LawCourts. Directly opposite is thebuilding of the Gran Hotel (PlazaWeyler), restored and refurbishedas a venue for cultural activities.Its rooms house a permanentexhibition of the works of theartist, Anglada Camarasa. Facingthe Gran Hotel is the TeatroPrincipal, with its Neoclassicalfaçade.
The next point on the route is LaRambla, a colourful walk withnumerous flower stalls. Situated atthe far end are the BotanicalGardens, with the ficus nitida,Palma’s biggest tree. Walk downSan Jaume street towards theAvenida de Jaime III, cross overand, by taking a series of alleysand lanes, one can then get to thesmall square of La Llotja.
La Llotja (Sa Llotja) (9), the oldcommercial exchange, is a notablebuilding, which marks thepinnacle of Mediterranean Gothic
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Palma. Modernist building
(15th century). Delicate traceryand the elegant beauty of thefaçade are points to watch for onthe exterior. In the interior, a setof six spirally fluted piers supportthe vaulting, making the wholelook like a palm grove set instone. Adjoining the Llotja, is theformer Maritime Consulate(Consulado del Mar), whichnowadays houses the BalearicsRegional Authority (the Llotja isclosed on Mondays.
971 71 17 05). The MaritimeConsulate (17th century) wasonce a Merchant ShippingTribunal which settledcommercial and trade-relateddisputes. On the seaward side,there is a beautifully cofferedgallery.
Verdant palm trees grace thePaseo Marítimo (seafront drive),which runs for three kilometresalong the superb sweep of bay.Luxury hotels, modern apartmentblocks and night spots overlook
the Paseo. Here too is the YachtClub, with its pleasure craft andsailing boats.
Located on the Paseo Marítimo isthe Auditorium (10), the concerthall where leading internationalmusic competitions, theatre andfolk-music festivals are staged. Astone lyre commemorates itsfounder, Marcos Ferragut. Risingat the point where the Paseoterminates are the twin Pelairestowers, which date from the 14thcentury and once served to anchorthe chains that were used to close
off the small medieval harbour.Leaving the Paseo Marítimo, onegets to the Poble Espanyol (11),the Spanish Village, which is wellworth visiting. It is a livingmuseum, which serves as ashowcase for Spain’s architecturaland cultural heritage. Over onehundred artistic monuments andbuildings are reproduced here,reflecting different eras and styles
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Palma. La Llotja (commercial exchange)
Palma. Poble Espanyol (replicaSpanish village)
in Spanish art down the ages. Inthe same complex, there is aConference Centre, equipped withthe very latest facilities.
Bellver Castle (12) dominatesthe city and its circular groundplanis a unique example of Gothicmilitary architecture. Bellvermeans bella vista or beautiful viewand, indeed, the view of the seaand city from the castle is quitemagnificent. Originally thesummer residence for theMallorcan Monarchy, it laterbecame a prison. Outstandingamong the names of illustriousprisoners incarcerated within itswalls is that of Melchor Gaspar deJovellanos, Minister of Justice andAmbassador to Russia.
In addition to its palatialmansions, churches andmonuments, Palma offers thevisitor true quality as regards itsopen spaces. Trees, shrubs andgreen areas are the very lungs ofthe city, places where one canenjoy the relative solitude of amoment alone, contemplate asunlit evening or just become asilent spectator, participating inthe life of this island capital,bathed by the waters of theMediterranean.
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Palma. Bellver Castle
Sports, leisure and
entertainment
Sports
Apart from football, tennis andcycling, other sports enjoying along tradition in Mallorca aresailing, golf and horseracing.
Sailing. Sailing of all types has akeen band of young devotees,with yacht basins and clubsoffering a comprehensive range ofservices and facilities.
In Palma, a seafaring city parexcellence, a number of regattasare held, including the King’s CupYacht Race (Copa del Rey de Vela),in the first week in August, anevent which transcends its purelysporting dimension. It is acompetition with a markedly socialflavour, drawing a clutch ofcelebrities and jet setters. Eachsummer, the entire Royal Familytraditionally takes part in theKing’s Cup. As a mark of hispersonal interest and skill, H.M.King Juan Carlos usually crews onthe “Bribón”. His Highness, CrownPrince Felipe, as well as PrincessesElena and Cristina also ventureforth under sail, one of the island’sfavourite pastimes.
For the space of one week, theReal Club Náutico de Palma(Royal Yacht Club) takes on anentirely different character. Thefleet of participating vessels
(generally over one hundredstrong) moors here. The race isheld over one of the best regattacourses in the world, Palma Bay.For information kindly call thefollowing numbers:
971 72 68 48(Club Náutico de Palma).
The Trofeo S.A.R. Princesa Sofía(H.R.H. Princess Sofía Trophy) is held
in winter and is characterised by thehigh numbers of entries from allover the world in the smallercategories. For information kindlycall the following number:
971 40 24 12 (Federación Balearde Vela - Balearic Sailing Federation).
The Escuela Nacional de Vela deCalanova (National SailingSchool) offers intensive beginners’courses for the very young, as wellas advanced courses. Class-roomsfacilities. Boarders accepted.Address: Avenida Joan Miró, CalaMayor (Palma). 971 40 25 12. Real Club Náutico de Palma:with open-air swimming pool, barsand restaurant; Muelle San Pedro
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Palma. Royal Yatch Club
No. 1 (Palma). 971 72 68 48.Club de Mar: Muelle de Pelaires(Palma). 971 40 36 11. Puerto Portals: with 670 berthsand sailing school; Portals Nous.
971 17 11 00. Club Náutico de Santa Ponça:with 522 berths and sailing school.
971 69 49 30.
Golf. On Mallorca, many visitorsfind themselves drawn to golf.
There are 12 golf courses on theisland, 10 of which are eighteen-hole and two, nine-hole courses.The Balearics Open is a regularevent, a competition for worldclass professionals. In Spring, PulaGolf holds exhibition tournamentsfeaturing some of the leadingplayers on the European circuit.Balearic Golf Federation ( 971 72 27 53).
The following are among thebest tended and equippedcourses:Golf Son Vida: 18 holes; Son VidaEstate (Palma). 971 79 12 10. Golf de Bendinat: 18 holes; near
Palma, set in superb naturalsurroundings; Calle Campoamor(Calvià). 971 40 52 00. Golf deSanta Ponça: two 18-holecourses. 971 69 02 11. Pula Golf: Costa de Pinos Estate (Son Servera). 971 81 70 34.
Horseracing. Harness or sulkyracing is a well-established sporton Mallorca. Races are held everyweekend at the Palma andManacor racecourse, and drawhorse lovers, in search of anattractive sports event, as well aspunters eager to try their luck. Forinformation kindly call thefollowing number:
971 46 85 08 (Balearic HarnessRacing Federation).
Hipódromo Son Pardo(hipódromo: racecourse): race-track, bar, restaurant, terraces for7,000 racegoers; at the 3-km. markon the Sóller road (Palma).
971 75 40 31. Hipódromo Manacor: at the 50-km. mark on the Palma-Artà road(Manacor). 971 55 00 23.
Aquaparks and Zoos
Marineland (Costa d’en Blanes).This is a park with a veryinteresting dolphin and seal show.The park also features a parrotand penguin circus, and anaquarium with sharks and reptiles( 971 67 51 25. Closed inDecember).Other Aquaparks:Aquacity Park (at the 15-km. markon the Palma-Arenal motorway).
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Pollença Bay. Horse riding
Aquapark (on the Cala Figuera-Magaluf road). Aqualandia (atthe 25-km. mark on the Palma-Incaroad). Autosafari (at the 5-km.mark on the Portocristo-SonServera road), a drive-throughsafari park where free-roamingwild animals can be seen close upfrom the safety of one’s own car( 971 81 09 09).
Culture, theatres,festivals, music and exhibitions
Teatro Principal. The building,which has a classical façadefeaturing Doric, Ionic andCorinthian columns, was founded350 years ago but has beenrefurbished on several occasionssince. Today it is the yearly venuefor a brilliant season of springtimeopera and drama (La Rambla,opposite the Gran Hotel.
971 72 55 48).
Auditorium. The concert hall isthe home of the BalearicSymphony Orchestra and, duringthe year, is host to other famousorchestras led by conductors ofrenown, with a concert repertoirecovering both classical andmodern music. Spanish andinternational ballet troupes visitthe Auditorium every year (PaseoMarítimo, 18. 971 73 47 35).
The Summer Piano ConcertoCycle held annually in the gardensof La Cartuja in Valldemossa ismost enjoyable. The PollençaSummer Festival offers concerts
given by leading orchestrasagainst the exquisite backdrop ofSt. Dominic’s Cloister (SantoDomingo).
Art galleries and exhibition halls
The Gran Hotel (La CaixaFoundation) is a noteworthyModernist building, devoted tocultural activities, with apermanent exhibition of the worksof Anglada Camarasa
The Fundación Pilar y Joan Miróis an active arts centre. A Mirócollection is on permanent displayand there are temporaryexhibitions of leading artists,together with debates, lectures,symposia, music cycles and so forth(Calle Joan de Saridakis, 29.
971 70 14 20. Closed Mondays).
Palau Solleric. This Mallorcanmansion acts as a gallery anddocumentation centre forcontemporary art (Passeig desBorn, 27. 971 72 20 92).
Círculo de Bellas Artes (CasalBalaguer). This is an oldMallorcan house which has beenconverted into an exhibition hall(Calle Unió, 3. 971 72 31 12).
Centro de Cultura Sa Nostra. An18th-century Mallorcan mansion inthe Old Quarter of the city with sixrooms given over to exhibitions ofpaintings, engravings, photographyand the like. Lectures, exhibitionsand concerts are organised here.
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Use may be made of a libraryspecialised in art (CalleConcepción, 12. 971 72 52 10.Closed Sundays).
Fundación Barceló. Temporaryexhibitions are held here, focusingon painting, photography andother forms of cultural expression(Calle de Sant Jaume, 4.
971 72 24 67. Closed inAugust).
Galería Juan Guaita. Paintingsand sculptures by leading artists(Vía Veri, 10. 971 71 59 89).
Galería Xavier Fiol. Housed in apalatial mansion in the OldQuarter. Contemporary Spanish art(Calle Montenegro, 4.
971 71 89 14).
Galería Ferrán Cano (previously, 4Gats). New trends. Leading artists(Calle de la Pau, 3. 971 71 40 67).
Galería Gianni Giacobbi.Contemporary art. Painting,sculpture, graphic art (Calle de CanRibera, 4. 971 72 00 02).
Palma by night
Palma offers visitors a wide andvaried choice of leisure andentertainment, which tends tomake the city’s nightlife just thatbit different and lively. There are anumber of nightlife districts,though these are wont to changewith passing fads and fashions.
The areas around La Llotja andthe Consulado del Mar, with
their upbeat street action andmusic bars featuring spontaneousperformances, are extremelypopular with the younger crowd.The Paseo Marítimo is anotherarea for discotheques and night-time entertainment. There areelegant and more informal disco’sfor all ages. Some have a terracewith various rooms leading off,
each with a different kind ofmusic. The Plaza Gomila is amagnet for the young, with scoresof disco-bars. S’Arenal is also apopular discotheque and nightlifearea. Located outside Palma, inMagaluf, is the biggestdiscotheque in Europe, plus aluxury Casino, with dinner andfloor show ( 971 13 00 00). Acomprehensive list of all thepossibilities for night-timeentertainment in Palma would beendless. Before going home aftera night out, go out onto one ofthe many terraces and enjoy themulticolour spectacle of Palma bynight, sparkling beneath a star-studded sky.
Palma by night
Local cuisineOne of the most widely foundspecialities, served as a first course,are the typical Mallorcan soups,which, far from being of theconsommé type, are a nourishingblend of vegetables, thinly cutslices of (brown) bread, onion andtomato. There is never a shortageof greens in the local dishes. Apartfrom the Mallorcan soups, anothervery typical dish is the tumbet, aratatouille-like baked vegetabledish, usually cooked in a greixera(casserole) and containingaubergines (eggplant), potatoes,peppers and tomato. There is alsothe frito mallorquín, withvegetables and giblets.
Buying vegetables and fresh fruitat Palma’s Olivar Market, or at anyof the town markets on the island,is always a fascinating gourmetexcursion. Choosing theingredients for a vegetarian mealfrom among the mountains ofartichokes, aubergines, peppers,tomatoes, cabbages and otherlocally grown greens is a simpletask. The eggs are newly laid andthe fruit has that special flavourthat only comes when it ripens onthe tree.
With regard to meat, mentionshould be made of the popular localroast sucking pig, and the so-calledescaldums, duck or turkey stews withpotatoes and almonds. Loin of porkwith cabbage is another speciality.Then there is also the famedMallorcan spicy red sausage spread,sobrasada, made of finely dicedpork, seasoning, paprika andcayenne pepper.
However, the really exquisite side ofisland cooking, is to be found in thelocal fish and seafood dishes. Thecaldereta de langosta (caldereta dellagosta - lobster stew) is excellent,owing to the fact that it is preciselyin these parts, in the waters betweenMallorca and Menorca, where themost delicious lobsters are caught.The cap roig (cabracho - sea-scorpion), served freshly caught andgrilled, is simply superb. Somethingaltogether singular are the fishcroquettes made with jonquillo, verydifficult to come by outside theislands. The jonquillo is a kind ofgoby, with very exquisite whitemeat...what might be called thearistocratic of all gobies, well wortha try.In Mallorca, the solution to justabout any problem can be foundover a good meal, and eating out isa marvellous way to relax and enjoythe unique sunny beauty of theisland’s Mediterranean scenery.
Cakes and Pastries. The ensaimada(from the word saïm: lard) is verypopular. Made from flour and lard, ita sweet magically fluffy half-bun,half-pastry with a flattened, coiled,turban-like shape. The “smaller”ones are eaten with breakfast, while
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Inca. Typical “celler”
the bigger ones (which can be verybig indeed), filled with cabello deangel (literally angel’s hair, a fibrouspumpkin jam) or whipped cream,are eaten as a dessert or at tea time,or taken home by visitors as asouvenir of a happy holiday spent onMallorca.Another island speciality are the so-called rubiols, made from flour andaniseed, with a cottage cheese orjam filling. In addition there is thecoca (a pizza-like base) filled withfresh apricots or dried peaches (ordried apricots). Ice cream withalmonds is also a Mallorcan specialty,while the chocolates made by theFresquet confectionery firmrepresent a tradition going back tothe 17th century.
Wine and other drinks. The Ferrerand Ribas wines bear the BinissalemSeal of Origin and are of excellentquality. By far the most popularaperitif is palo, a drink resemblingvermouth, made from the carobbean. Liqueurs made from naturalherbs enjoy wide renown.Recently a local type of cava(sparkling wine) has made its
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Trade fairs and exhibitions
January 15th-20th, Alimenta(food and wine), Palma.February 20th-23rd, Feria delCaballo (horses), Palma.March 6th-9th, Rastrillo NuevoFuturo (flea market), Palma.15th-23rd, Feria de antiguedadesy galerías de arte (antiques andart galleries), Palma.29th-30th, Muestra internacionalcanina (international dog show),Palma.April 14th-23rd, Mostra CuinaMallorquina (dishes fromcompeting restaurants), Palma.April 22nd-May 2nd, BalearesNáutica (boat show), Palma.May 30th-June 8th, Feria delLibro (book fair), Paseo del Borne,Palma.September 17th-21st, Feria deFranquicias (franchises), Palma.November 19th-21st, Nupcial(wedding catering and services),Palma.19th-24th, Tecnoturista, Palma.December 2nd-12nd, Baleart(artisan work), Palma.
The Palma Showgrounds aresituated on the Polígono deLevante Industrial Estate, Calle Ciudad de Querétaro s/n(s/n: not numbered), 07006,Palma de Mallorca.
971 77 13 02- Fax: 971 77 01 60.
Mallorcan “ensaimada” pastry
appearance, the Mallorcan viescumós de qualitat brut nature,produced by Jaume Mesquida. Thissparkling wine, made by thechampagne method, is limpidlybrilliant with a light greenish-yellowcolour.
Fiestas and festivities
Traditional fiestas and feast days fillthe calendar. The eve of 17thJanuary heralds the Fiesta of SantAntoni Abat (St. Anthony). Bonfires(foguerons) are lit, and there issinging, dancing and carousing inabundance. These fiestas arecelebrated with special verve in Artàand sa Pobla. In addition, there areprocessions and blessing of animalsin Palma and other towns.Carnival, known as sa Rua, is marked in Palma withnoisy and colourful parades. InEaster Week, the processions inFelanitx and the devallament inPollença hark back to another age.The Feast of San Sebastian, patronsaint of Palma, is honoured in thecapital on 20th January.One of the most popular festivities isheld in Sóller on the first Monday inMay. Ses valentes donescommemorates the attack on thecity by marauding Turkish pirates in1561. Vigorous mock battlesbetween Moors and Christians arestaged, with the local womenentering the fray.
29th June in Alcúdia and 16th Julyin Port de Sóller and Cala Rajada arethe dates that signal the launchingof the seaborne processions. The
Cavalcada de la Beata takes place inValldemossa on 27th July.
There are other festivities, profaneand joyous, connected with theharvest and with food: the Festa desMelo (melon) in Vilafranca on thesecond Sunday in September; theFesta des Vermar (grape harvest) inBinissalem, Mallorca’s wine capital,on the last Sunday in September;the Festa des Botifarro (Mallorcansausage spiced with cumin seed andcinnamon) in Sant Joan on the firstSunday in October; and the Festades Bunyol in Bunyola on the lastSunday in October.
Things to buyand handicraftsPalma offers a wide variety of top-quality leather goods and footware,made by the factories in Inca.Browsing in shops run by registereddealers can bring to light interestingantiques and curios. Localhandicrafts and Mallorcanceramicware are to be found inmany stores and are worth buying,
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Selva. Traditional dances
whether as souvenirs or gifts. No listwould be complete without amention of the prized quality of theMajórica cultured pearls, producedin Manacor. Another product inwhich the island specialises is hand-blown glass. In Vidrios Gordiola (atthe 19-km. mark on the Manacorroad), visitors are welcome to seeglass-making and -blowing, as wellas the items on display.
There are some curious objects,typical of Mallorca, called siurells.These are clay, toy-like figures witha whistle in the base. Mallorcanpottery is rich and varied, with thetown of Portol being the pottery
capital. Locally made needle- andbasketwork is sold in Artà. The inevitable ensaimada must ofcourse be bought to take back tothe family, on one’s return home.But before leaving, it is a good ideato spend a Saturday morning at thePlaza Major, wandering around theopen-air Jewellery and HandicraftsMarket.
Excursionsfrom MallorcaFerries depart daily, connectingMallorca with Menorca and/or Ibiza.These excursions are well worthwhileas a way of getting to know thedifferent peoples and traditions ofthe various Balearic islands, bound bytheir common denominator of sunand sea.
MENORCAThe island of Menorca has a surfacearea of 702 square kilometres (a littleover 270 square miles), contoured byrolling hills and shallow valleys. Atbottom, it is an open-airarchaeological museum. On landing,the traveller is greeted by the veryfirst talaiot, the Torrelló Talaiot, atthe airport. The remains of roughlyone thousand six hundred prehistoricsettlements, known locally as clapers,can still be seen.Up until the arrival of the English,Ciutadella, with its stately buildingsand impressive churches hadtraditionally been the capital. ThePlaza del Born serves as the arena forthe gallant fiesta in honour of SantJoan (St. John’s - 24th June), with itsamazing display of skilledhorsemanship, during whichmedievally-clad riders get their steedsto describe, caragols or triplepirouettes. Quiet Moriscan lanes(from “Morisco”: Moorish converts,sometimes known as Spanish Moors)lead past noble frontages. Lying tothe north is Cala Morell, enclosed byrocky headlands, and Puerto Fornells,with Monte Toro at its back; to thesouth, is the superb beach of Cala
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Handmade glassware
Galdana, its curve seemingly tracedby the hand of a masterdraughtsman. In these parts thecaldereta de langosta is to be highlyrecommended.
The Plaza de España is the heart andcentre of Mahón (Maó). Much inevidence throughout the city, theisland’s capital, are the British-styledouble-hung windows, calledboinders, fitted with Venetian blinds,always green and very Moorish.Down at the port, one should strollthe wharves and pop into an oldtavern. Here they serve a gin that isthe British recipe of the Menorcanginebra. Make sure to order someescupinyes, freshly dug clams, as atasty tapa on the side. Anotherinvention to come out of Menorca issalsa mahonesa, the originalmayonnaise. The Albufera de EsGrau, to the north of Maó, makes amagnificent sight at sundown.
IBIZAIbiza (Eivissa) is hospitable, lively andcosmopolitan. It is an island where itnever snows (and according to therecords it has only ever snowedonce). One enters the Old Quarter inthe Upper Town (Dalt Vila) by the LasTablas Gate, which dates back to thetime of Philip II. The Plaza de Españais not only the site of the Town Hallbut is also a marvellous look-outpoint commanding a splendid view.Noble mansions, art galleries andantique dealers line the cobbledstreets. Beside the Cathedral, standsthe Archaeological Museum, themost important of its kind in theworld in the field of Punic (i.e.,Carthaginian) culture. Descending the steep slope, oneleaves by the Nou Gateway and joinsthe Vía Romana which runsalongside the Carthaginiannecropolis. A gentle stroll along thePaseo de Vara del Rey, with itsdistinctly provincial feel, takes onedown to the Marina Quarter andquayside. This bustling area is full offashionable boutiques (folk wisdomhereabouts says, “dress how you likebut dress well”), souvenir shops,
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Ibiza
Binibèquer. Menorca
48
restaurants, bars, sidewalk cafés andthe tang of the sea air.Following the coast, the northboundroad takes one to Santa Eulària, withits fortress-church, gleaming whitelyatop the Puig de Missa. Below, runsSanta Eulària des Riu’s river, the onlyone in the entire Balearics, a smallriver (the Balcar) which accounts forthe town’s name. There is a finebeach here which attracts manytourists.Situated on the north coast is SantAntoni de Portmany, a small polyglotholiday resort with scores of bars anddisco’s. Passing through the island’swhite villages, charming ruralchurches are to be seen -Sant Jordi,Santa Eulària, Sant Augustí, SantJosep- each with the distinctive sealof Ibizan architecture. Ibiza is natural,free-spirited and welcoming. It is easyto leave one’s heart in Ibiza, be it toreturn or stay forever.
FORMENTERA Formentera is the epilogue to theBalearic saga. Formentera strikes oneas some whim or caprice of MotherNature. Ten kilometres toexplore...cliffs, beaches and plain.The Puerto de la Savina is like sometoy-town; the capital, Sant Franesc deFormentera, pure fairy tale. It washere that the Normans landed (859A.D.), decided they liked the placeand stayed. Their genetic heritagelives on: Formentera boasts thehighest number of blue eyes andblond women per square kilometrein the whole of Spain, as well as thehighest number of people living to aripe old age, a sure consequence of alife of peace and quiet amidst suchsplendid scenery.
Formentera. Punta de sa Creu
USEFUL ADDRESSESArea Dialling CodeInternational: 34TOURIST INFORMATION TELEPHONETURESPAÑA 901 300 600www.tourspain.esBalearic Tourist BoardMontenegro, 07012 Palma
971 17 61 91, fax 971 17 61 85IBATUR (Balearic Tourism Institute)Montenegro, 5, Palma
971 17 61 91, fax 971 17 71 55Fomento del Turismo de Mallorca (MallorcanTourist Promotions) Constitució, 1, Palma 971 72 53 96Tourist Information Offices:Palma. Plaza de la Reina, 2 971 71 22 16Palma. Airport 971 78 95 56Ibiza (Ibiza). Calle Bes, 9 971 30 19 00Mahón (Menorca). Plaza de la Explanada, 40
971 36 37 90TRAVELAirport 971 78 95 56Iberia 902 40 05 00Spanair. Airport 971 74 50 20Air Europa. 902 40 15 01Trasmediterránea (Ferries). Estación Marítima, 2(Harbour Ferry Terminal)
902 45 46 45Balearia. Estación Marítima, 3
971 40 53 60Bus and Coach StationInformation 971 17 69 70Taxis 971 40 14 14Buquebus. Estación Marítima, 3
902 41 42 42Road TrafficRoad & Highway information 900 12 35 05Guardia Civil 971 46 51 12Traffic Police 971 46 52 62POST & TELEGRAPHSGeneral Post Office 902 19 71 97USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERSEmergencies: 112Public Information Service: 010Balearic Central Hotel/Holiday ApartmentBooking Office
971 70 60 06, fax 971 47 09 81
SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROADCanada. Toronto. Tourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402 TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2
1416/ 961 31 31, fax 1416/ 961 19 92e-mail: [email protected] Britain. London. Spanish Tourist OfficeManchester Square, 22-23. LONDON W1M 5AP
44207/ 486 80 77, fax 44207/ 486 80 34e-mail: [email protected]. Tokyo. Tourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F. 3-1-10Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105
813/ 34 32 61 41, fax 813/ 34 32 61 44e-mail: [email protected]
Russia. Moscow. Spanish Tourist OfficeTverskaya – 16/2 Business Center “Galeria Aktor”6º floor. MOSCÚ 103009
7095 / 935 83 97, fax 7095 / 935 83 96e-mail: [email protected]. Singapore. Spanish Tourist Office541Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04 238881 SINGAPORE
657/ 37 30 08, fax 657/ 37 31 73e-mail: [email protected] States of AmericaLos Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960 BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211
1323/ 658 71 95, fax 1323/ 658 10 61e-mail: [email protected]. Tourist Office of SpainWater Tower Place, suite 915 East. 845, NorthMichigan Avenue. CHICAGO, ILL 60-611
1312/ 642 19 92, fax 1312/ 642 98 17e-mail: [email protected]. Tourist Office of Spain1221 Brickell Avenue. MIAMI, Florida 33131
1305/ 358 19 92, fax 1305/ 358 82 23e-mail: [email protected] York. Tourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35 th floor NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103
1212/ 265 88 22, fax 1212/ 265 88 64e-mail:[email protected]
EMBASSIES IN MADRIDCanada: Nuñez de Balboa, 35
91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67Great Britain: Fernando El Santo, 16
91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33Japan: Serrano, 109
91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21Russia: Velazquez, 155
91 562 22 64, fax 91 562 97 12United States of America: Serrano, 75
91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03
CONSULATESGreat Britain: Plaza Mayor, 3. Palma
971 71 24 45United States of America: Avenida Jaime III, 26entresuelo. Palma 971 22 53 00 / 971 22 26 60
Writen by:José María Olona de Armenteras
Translated by:Michael D. Benedict
Photographs:Turespaña Photographic Archives
Design:Florencio García
Published by© Turespaña
Secretaría de Estado de Comercioy Turismo
Ministerio de Economía
Printed by:Grafoffset, S.L.
D. L.: M. 24.523-2000
NIPO: 104-00-019-0Printed in Spain
3rd edition
LV T R AP L V S
TurespañaSecretaría de Estado de Comercio y Turismo
Ministerio de Economía
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