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Karen Darke Lecture“Karen became paraplegic in a climbingincident 16 years ago (a fall that also brokeher skull, neck, ribs, and arms), but sincethen has undertaken many non-climbingadventures (kayaking the inside passagefrom Canada to Alaska, skiing acrossGreenland, hand biking over theHimalayas). When she asked me to skiacross Greenland with her in 2006, my firstcomment was that she should climb El Capinstead, as it would be much easier (littledid I know!!!)”. - Andy Kirkpatrick, alpinist.
Over the last decade Karen has overcomemany physical and mental barriers,completing many trips others believedimpossible; from marathons and triathlons,to kayaking, sit-skiing, hand-cycling andclimbing in some of the most inhospitableplaces on the planet.
Profits from the lecture are going to awater project in Tanzanian Masaii villagethat Karen is supporting. The village wellis broken and unreliable, and currently thevillagers are drinking dirty water or milkfrom their cattle, and have no clean watereither to drink or for the new dispensary /
Aylesbury Climbing ClubNews
Aylesbury Climbing ClubNews
Club members are also active most weekends. Day trips are made to areas such as the Peak District, Wye Valley or South coast. Bank holidayweekends are not formally arranged. Destinations, accommodation and transport are arranged by individual members. The best way to findout what the plans are is to come along to the Broad Leys public house in Aylesbury on Monday nights or to the climbing walls.
Climbing wallsMeets and eventsClub members can be found at theAmersham wall on Monday evenings fromaround 7pm and Oxford Brookes wall onThursday evenings from about 7.30pm. Ifyou want more information talk to PeteAnderson 01844 260712 (for Oxford) orBarry Wright 01525 385211 (forAmersham).
Green ParkClimbing on Monday evenings (7-10pm)at Green Park for fully paid up membersonly (for 3rd party insurance purposes,children of members who wish to climbcan join the junior section of the BMCthrough the ACC), until Monday 20thOctober. For more details contact Bob Leeon 01296 651308, 07718 585106,or [email protected]
News Richard AndrewsBurbage North. May ‘07
Issue Number 112 August 2008
2008
August 15-17 Camping meet at Nicholaston Farm The Gower (SA3 2HL)Mon 25 Bank holiday
Sept Sun 7 Climb at Green Park and barbecue at Wendover Woods 4-8pm12-14 Dinner Meet, Dalesbridge Yorkshire SD 762 676
Oct 17-19 Bryn Golau, Dinas Mawddwy Mid Wales SH 858 148Nov Sun 2 Chiltern Chase Albury SP 965 126
14-16 High House, Borrowdale Lakes NY 235 119Dec 5-7 Thorpe Farm, Hathersage Peaks SK 223 824
Mon 15 Christmas dinner
2009
Jan 17-19 Raven Crag, Great Langdale Lakes NY 286 062Feb 13-15 Glan Dena North Wales SH 667 605March 6-8 Bowderstone Cottage, Borrowdale Lakes NY 254 164April 24-26 Clwt y Bel, Deniolen North Wales SH 591 630May 16-18 Low House Coniston Lakes SD 301 973/June 30-6 Glen Brittle Skye NG 411 215
Affiliated to the British Mountaineering Councilhttp://www.acc.org.uk
health facility. There is an urgent needfor some form of rain water collectionsystem or to fix the well and direct apipe to the dispensary.
http://www.karendarke.com
New Club SecretaryMany thanks to Bob Lee for hiscontribution as club secretary for thepast few years, he has now handedover the spell checker to Mick Barnes- let’s hope it works better for him!
Barbecue and climbSunday 7th September, 4-8pmClimbing at Green Park from 1pm(same rule as always - fully paid upmembers only). With barbecues atWendover Woods from 4pm. Bringyour own food and swop intrepidholiday tales.
Guess who?Apparently it wasn’t Jenny Walkerwho featured on the front coverpicture of the last issue, but PaulNurse - easy mistake! Still it providedsome level of mirth.
The usual reaction when told people thatwe were going to Oman was “Why? Whatdo you want to go there for?” It’s acountry with little outside exposure andbeing fairly central Middle East, notusually on the top of the tourist list. It isstarting to become more popular thoughand I would suspect that in a relativelyshort time scale will be a major venue.
To be honest we didn’t know a great dealabout it either. We’d got as far as theborder from Dubai once before and hadseen that it had potential but had not gotaround to returning that way. If it wasn’tfor the fact that we had friends living inMuscat we probably wouldn’t have goneeither. But they have been out there foryears and love it and as walkers andclimbers have explored it quite well andknow just what it has to offer.
To put it into perspective, the country isabout 20% larger than the UK with apopulation of around 2 million. It sitssmack on the Tropic of Cancer. Thecountry broadly speaking has four distinctareas. The northern sector is the mostpopulated but is also the area of the highmountains. A mountain range runs forapproximately 200 or so miles parallel tothe coast, reaching heights in excess of10,500 feet and cut by deep gorges andwadis and is becoming known as “aheight junkies” playground. Much of theinterior of the country is desert, with the“Empty Quarter” running into the vastArabian Desert in Saudi. To the southernend of the country is Dhofar, with itstropical climate and monsoon season thisis an area of lush green slopes, fertileland, mountains and waterfalls. Finallythere is the coast.
Until around 30 years ago you had to bean Omani national to be allowed into thecountry. Schooling was for boys only.There was a strict night time curfew withcity gates locked. No TV or radio andonly 6 miles of sealed road in the entirecountry! In a short space of time Omanhas embraced the world and become amodern and progressive country whilestill maintaining its cultural and Islamictraditions. Visitors are welcomed and thecountry feels safe and friendly.
We went in October which wasn’t idealfor exploring the outdoor activities astemperatures were still around 37 to 40˚C,our friends were seen to put fleeces on inthe evenings though! Most walking andclimbing is done in the winter season, ie.November to March when thetemperature is more favourable toexertions. Nevertheless we did whatexploring we could.
One of our main objectives was to visitthe turtle beaches. Each year for a fewmonths huge Green Turtles haulthemselves up the sand to nest. Wecamped in the middle of nowhere (on adesignated camping site - ie there is a
October in the Dolpa Turtles and mountains
A non-mountaineering friend of mineasked me why I was going back to theHimalayas for the tenth time when therewere the rest of the world’s mountains toexplore. I cannot remember how Ianswered, but many times on my last trekin the marvellously remote Dolpa (orDolpo) in Western Nepal many reasonscame to mind. Puffing breathlesslythrough deep snow to one of our higherpasses (the Numa La, 5190m) to gaze atthe peaks of Dhaulagiri and theAnapurnas as they burst into view,framed by the prayer flags and a brightclear sky; our first glimpse of the highestwaterfall in Nepal; traversing theincredible yak trail cut out high above thePhoksumdo Lake, so narrow that yakshave to have half their load removed;bouldering with the Sherpas at alunchtime stop on fantastic rock; thebrilliance of the stars when dashing outfor a pee at -15°C. Those of you whohave been to the Himalayas willunderstand I could go on and on withsuch memories, but to those who havenot had this privilege, all I can say is ‘go’.
My travelling companions this time weresix men, one of whom I’ve trekked withbefore, all of them with fascinatingcareers and diverse interests, most over60 years old and very fit! Our leader, IanWade, summitted Everest in 2005 with amate (not a large expedition) and hisinput to the trek was enormous. He wasincredibly hard working, always helpingthe Sherpas to put up the tents, etc., awise decision maker, especially when wehad to make a disappointing but correctdecision not to carry on into the remotestarea of the Dolpa to Shey Gompabecause of the early dump of snow,meaning we almost certainly would notget back over the 17,600 feet high passes.Ian was a good friend to our Sirdar,shared his enormously interestingexperiences (when he could bepersuaded to forget to be so modest!) andabove all a safe and good leader oversuch a diverse group.
I was shocked by the changes inKathmandu since my last visit five yearsago. (I went to Ecuador in between thisand the last Nepal trek.) The pollution isdire, and even out of the city on a visit tothe World Heritage Site of Bhaktapur the
air is very poor. Theairport chaos isunbelievable and thetraffic jams, especiallyin Thamel, are nowmotor bikes and carsrather than the bicyclesand pedestrians of theold days. It is strangeto visit a monasteryand be taken upthrough the Lama’shouse where his wayof life is apparentlyunchanged for
hundreds of years to emerge onto the roofto be faced by a row of solar panels. I stillcannot decide whether ‘progress’ in thesevery remote areas will bring moreproblems than they solve, but wisely theyoung are being encouraged to go to learnnursing, teaching good agriculturalmethods and veterinary work, but alwaysto return to their own village or region. Wenoticed a huge effort, both in the city andvillages, to clear the streets and you don’tsee all the beggars outside the palace wallsany more or so many mothers with babiesbegging in the traffic jams – but sadly theyhave probably been made to go elsewhere.
I am frequently asked which my best trekwas. Probably the honest answer is thepresent one – I’m still sorting out photosand slides and re-living a truly wonderfulexperience. Yes, it is disappointing to beprevented from getting to Shey Gompa inthe inner very remote Dolpa, but thealternative route and the extra timeallowed us to see the last days of harvesttime in fertile high valleys. There isalways a plus if you look hard enough.
So, where next? It’s got to be high andremote, a month away from home toallow for full acclimatisation, preferablywith a small group into a Buddhistregion. And yes, I’m sure it will be Nepal– again! Anyone interested?
Jenny Walker
2
picture of a tent marked on a map) and went out during the night andagain just before dawn to watch the mothers come to lay their eggs andsome young from earlier in the season hatch. A very memorableexperience. We went on to wild camp along the coast, were visited bycamels who took a shine to us and went snorkelling. The marine life ispretty good around here.
We made it up to the mountains as well. There’s quite a bit of climbinghere and some spectacular via ferratas, but it was too hot to try most ofit. We did find some deep wadis to bash, that is long bumpy off roaddriving to find a suitable place to picnic, with some welcome shade todo some walking and cool pools to swim in. There are some nastybiting critters out here - spiders, snakes, scorpions etc, but apart frombeing stung by a hornet didn’t really encounter the wildlife (maybesomething to do with 2 noisy 6 year olds!), most of the larger stuff hasbeen shot. Higher up in the mountains it was cooler, more like adecent British summer and we went walking on the Sayq Plateau (6,500ft), on the whole we followed the mountain paths between the villages,there are some good long remote mountain routes up here as well.
So why did we go? Mainly because we like exploring new places andhaving been there once and seen just how much it has to offer we arevery much hoping to return.
Moira Gainey
... Oman 2007
Sayq Plateau, Western Hajar Mountains
Wadi Tanuf
3
How did you become interested in the outdoors?Growing up in a village in the Chilterns the outdoorsbegan at the end of the garden. My slightly eccentricchildhood resulted in a view of trees and birds as I sat onthe outdoor privy with the door open each morning.
I am currently planning...A solo long distance UK trail (work commitmentspermitting!), preparing for my International MountainLeaders assessment in Switzerland in June and anexpedition to Tanzania for a month this summer with tenteenagers (and two teachers, phew!).
Top tip for a painfree holiday...Don’t get appendicitis, very painful. At least I got to chat tothe locals in Whitehaven hospital after the emergency op.
My best day out in the UK was...So difficult to choose. A real life changer was AnGearanach in January 2000 on a PYB Winter Skills course.My marriage was going down the pan, I was unhappy atwork but there I was, standing on a snow covered peak,with just two other people and the emptiness and beautyof the Grey Corries spread before me. Suddenly none ofthat other stuff mattered. I’d never realized that wintermountaineering was something an ordinary girl fromBucks could achieve and it made me understand howstrong I was, both mentally and physically.
And holiday abroad?Again a tough one but it would have to be Nepal in 2006.Seeing the changing colours of sunset on Everest fromGokyo Ri was an incredible experience. One I wouldnever have had if my ambition to climb Ama Dablam hadbeen realized.
The kit I always take away (apart from essentials)...Duck tape - nuff said.
What have you learnt from your travels?To question our materialistic western culture, but also adeep, and environmentally unsound, love of cleanflushing toilets and hot baths filled with scented bubbles.
With £200 to spend and a long weekend I would...How about the Caledonian sleeper to Fort William andonto Glenfinnan arriving at lunchtime on Saturday. Campat the head of Loch Arkaig that night. Walk the CorryhullyHorseshoe with (hopefully) views across the wilds ofMoidart and Knoydart on Sunday and get the train backon Monday?
I have always wanted to visit...Mars. Slightly more realistically, Antarctica, but alsoEthiopia, Malawi, Namibia, Patagonia. I could go on...
In a nutshell my philosophy is...To quote Wilde “you should try everything once, exceptincest and Morris dancing…”
The 5 minute interview -Sally Woodbridge
Well there a couple of inaccuracies about the title: it’snot a Munro, as it isn’t in Scotland, but it is 3,165ft high;and it isn’t quite in our back yard, the nearest trailheadis about a mile down the road but in this part of theworld that is your back yard.
What is it? Mount Monadnock.
Where is it? In the south west corner of NewHampshire, about two hours drive west of Boston, USA.
We live in a new development of seven houses (onlythree built so far, each on the minimum five acre plot)and we are the only house that does not have an all theyear view of the summit – the elderly couple who hadthis house built last year obviously didn’t appreciatemountain scenery (they have moved to Florida, whichproves it). Now the leaves have come down we can see the topbut we still haven’t been able to pick out the house from thesummit. One benefit of this is that we don’t pay “view tax”,seriously the others do!
There are a handful of trails (well marked paths when translatedinto real English) radiating from the summit, they all hit the roadnetwork at about 1,400 ft so it is an easy climb. Unusually forthis part of the world the summit is above the tree line,apparently there was a disastrous forest fire back around 1900which cleared the tree cover and the soil was eroded awaybefore it regenerated. Not good for the forest but it makes for anice mountain and as the state is more than 80% forest it can’thave been too big a loss. The mountain is made out of granitewhich seems to compete with trees as the staple crop of theregion – we have large lumps of bedrock in the middle of ourlawn, an interesting feature but hard to mow.
We usually hike the Marlborough Trail, because it is the nearest,it’s free and it’s less busy. The main trailheads have State Parktoll collectors so you have to pay $3 per person which goes tomaintain the paths. We use these occasionally so we don’t feeltoo stingy about using the free route most of the time. Thetrailhead has parking for about a dozen cars and is at the end ofa dirt track, but that does not deter people. The first part of thehike (walk for those of you who still speak English) is upthrough mixed forest but you can still see the traces of thegranite dry stone walls, so this must have been pasture probablyabandoned in the 1850s. At about half height the trail steepensto an easy scramble leading to a granite slab and your first bigviews. The trail continues up through steep bits of forest andscrambling over granite slabs. One last haul over the slabs getsyou on to the ridge with a quarter of a mile scrambling andwalking over rough rock gets you to the summit. Pedro’s recordfor up is about 55 minutes.
The views from the top of a clear day are expansive in theextreme – Monadnock being an isolated mountain – you can seethe skyscrapers of Boston but the main impression is that if itisn’t forest it’s lake. Unfortunately, you are almost never alone toappreciate the view - we got there at 7:30 one morning andthere were already two other parties up there. Even after a bignor’easter storm, where snowshoes and crampons were required,we still didn’t get first choice of where to shelter.
Pedro did not appreciate a call at 8:15 one morning when hewas in the office with Morag at the top of the hill describing theantics of the ravens.
It is the sort of mountain that on a sultry summer’s afternoonpeople in the office say “Sod this for a game of soldiers, let’s goand climb Monadnock – it will be cooler at the top” or “It’s toofrosty to pour concrete for the footings, it will have thawed outby the time we get back from Monadnock”!
The other local pleasures are the White Mountains with thenearest hikes being two hours away, but the winter delights ofMount Washington is another hour for the best routes. NewHampshire has a list of 4,000 ft mountains (a measly 48 of them)so those who remember Pedro’s obsession with the Munros willnot be surprised that the tick list is being worked on, with 12already done. These are quite big mountains – up to 6,288 feetfor Mount Washington with the trailheads at about 2,000 feet.They vary from the east side of Washington or the FranconiaRidge with lots of people and heavily used trails to big emptymountains like Kinsman. The main ridge is part of theAppalachian Trail so there are huts at an easy day’s hike fromeach other just below the tree line. We have not stayed in themyet as they closed for the winter just as we established ourselveshere but we will there in the spring.
Morag and Pedro Landers
A Munro in our backyard and other pleasures4
5
Dunmail Raise, Lakes11th-13th January ’08Winter conditions at last. Saturday - gullyclimb and walk on Helvellyn with Geoff,Ian, Nick L and others, descending viaThirlmere. Diccon and Paul N did a kindof “made up” grade 2 winter ridge onBrown Cove crags and then carried on toRed Tarn area to solo up the grade 1Headwall Gully on Helvellyn's easternflank and pop up through the cornice.
Sunday was rainy so many visits togearshops, teashops and the pub.
Tan-y-Garth, Capel Curig, N Wales8th-10th February ’08
Saturday - Peter A, Fiona and Mike E.Walked from hut to Craig Wren then onto the Creigiau Gleision ridge overlookingthe Llyn Cowlyd reservoir where we metup with John, Kay, Zoe, Martyn and JohnIngold. Down to the dam and then up theridge to Pen Llithrig y Wrach for Martyn totick one of his few remaining Welshsummits in glorious sunshine. Back to thehut via a well earned and much enjoyedpint at the Bryn Tyrch.
Sunday - Peter A and Nick L climbed atClogwyn yr Oen in the Moelwyns doingChic and Slick (both VD). Fabulousclimbing in T-shirts in February ....... if thisis global warming it’s not all bad.
High Moss, Duddon Valley, Lakes7th-9th March ’08
No report.
Whillans Hut, The Roaches18th-20th April ’08I did my first outdoor lead rock climb onthe Saturday at The Roaches. I really
enjoyed it. I learned that there wereseveral things to think about - putting inprotection, not falling off and the WIND!!!Oh yes, and the WIND!!!!
Zoe Smith (Aged 10)
It was good to arrive about 08:00 on theSaturday morning and make a start atProw Corner. Zoe did her first lead here(with me close behind!) with goodprotection and good progress - slowedonly by the wind at the top. Emmamanaged to climb up as well, buttwanged her dodgy knee in the process.(It is well on the way to normalitynow.) Further climbs on Prow Crackbefore migrating up to Maude’s Gardenrounded off the Saturday. As newmembers to the group on our first meet,the social side was very warm, eventhough we were staying some 20 milesaway at my parents. Sunday saw onlyZoe and myself returning as Emma’sknee was insisting that she stay doingvery little for the day. With Tom wemade a good ascent of Crack andCorner - Zoe lowered off the start of thethird pitch, but Tom and I made it tothe top. As Zoe and I left to pick upEmma and return home the rain started.We all thought that it was a great meet.
Emma, Matthew, and Zoe Smith
Saturday - Peter A, Nick L and “new” Pete.Great day climbing despite very hostilelooking weather. Comedy moment of themorning was Pete topping out only for hishat to be blown off by the wind! Withsome Peregrines having rather selfishlydecided to set up home in the middle ofone of the best gritstone crags in thecountry, climbing was limited to the westend and lower areas. Nine routes done inall with Pete leading on rock on his firstproper day out. Routes included Maud’sGarden , Heather Slab , Fern Crack ,Inverted Staircase, Chicken Run, andRooster (harder than it looked) followedby a few more at the Chalkstorm areabehind the hut.
Sunday - Peter A, John, Kay, Lynne, Nickand Bill. Walked North to the end of theRoaches ridge and on towardsDanebridge, through the woods toGradbach via the spectacular Lud’sChurch Gorge. Back to the hut with aslight diversion for a couple of pints in arather tacky pub on the A53.
Stanage, The PeaksSaturday 3rd May ’08Tony Scott, Mick Barnes, RichardAndrews, Peter Collins, John King, KayKing, Peter Templer, Tom Beckley, BobLee, Lynne Griffiths, Mike Padmore, IanDavison, Alex Thakway, Nick Loval, ChrisLoval, Freddy Loval and friend Joe.
Must be a record for an ACC day trip, 17of us made our way up to Stanage on theMay Day Saturday. Yes Stanage wasabsolutely heaving, but still an excellent
days climbing with not much queuing.The weather was very good and everyonehad a very good and full day with peoplestill climbing at 7pm. Far too many routesto mention them all. Loads of old Classicsdone, most of us repeating routes for theumpteenth time, but still very enjoyableall the same. Routes included, StraightCrack , (VD), Hollybush Crack (VD),Oblique Crack (S), Via Media (VS), RightHand Trinity (S), April Crack (HS),Leaning Buttress Crack (VD), Black HawkTraverse (VD).
Then we all went down to the pub atBaslow to spin the tale..........
Peter C and Bob Lee
Northumberland16th-19th May ’08Claire, Tom B, Barry, Mick, Mike, Lynne,John E, John I, John K, Kay, Richard A,Val, Fiona, Peter C.
Friday 16th. Richard, John, Kay andPeter went to Berryhill climbing,Marcher Lord (VS5a), Hi Diddle Diddle(S4a), Eastern Arete (MS4a), Cheat (VD),The Flutings (VD).
Saturday 17th. Some people were deterredby the drizzle so walked alongLindisfarne, then Bamburgh Beach. ATWO ICE CREAM DAY. Others had agood afternoon’s climbing at Kyloe OutThe Woods once the rain stopped. Claireled Birdlime Crack (MS), Tom ledChristmas Tree Arete (D with a VS 4cfinish), Barry led Flake Crack (S 4b) andTwin Cracks (S 4b). We finished off bytop-roping Oxter Wall (E1 5b).
Sunday 18th. Started off at Corby’s Cragnear Alnwick with Tom leading Plonka(S), Barry leading Easy Rider (S) and top-roping Black Wall (HVS 5a) beforemoving on to Simonside where Barry ledCairn Wall (MS), Boulder Face Crack (Dbut felt like VS!), Tom led Swastika Cracks(S) and both Tom and Claire ledInnominate Crack (VD). We also top-roped Nee Purchase (VS 5a) and FlakeCorner Direct (VS 5a). Richard, John, Kayand Peter went to Bowden Doorsclimbing, Scoop (VS4b), Black and Tans(S4b), Scorpion (VS4c), Triple Cracks (S),Castle Cracks (VD), Russett Grove (VD),2nd Leaning Groove (VS5a), Crab Wall(S). Richard and Peter managing todamage the same toe, same foot ondifferent routes within 20 minutes, soretired injured not out.
Monday 19th. Some walked over theCheviot to have a look at Henhole Crag.Others (Mick, Mike, Kay, Claire, John E,Tom and Barry) went to Bowden Doorswhere Mick started the day by falling offBanister Crack (VD). Tom finished it offand also led Grovel Groove (MS), Black &Tan (S 4b) and Sue (S4c). Claire ledDeception Crack (VD) and Barry led 2ndStaircase (D), Russet Groove (D), CastleCrack (VD), Black Crack (VD) and CastleWall (MS 4b).
Climbing and meets reports
cont. on page 6
Climbing and meets reports cont.6
Cairngorms20th-24th May ’08Pam, Claire, Kay, Val, Fiona, Lynne, Sally,Jenny, Jo, Fiona, Dave, Bob, John I, Tom,Bill, Paul, Mike, Barry.
Tuesday 20th. Tom and Paul wentclimbing at the Pass of Ballater with Paulleading BO (VD) and Aftershave (S), andTom leading Swivel Head (D), RightGuard (D) and Razor’s Crack (VS4c).Claire, Sally, Jo, Kay and Barry went foran 18 mile trek from the hut to Lin ofDee, White Bridge, Glen Dee, GlenLinberg and Glen Lin. Generally low level;a nice day, good stomp and, but for anunplanned ‘trip’ winding Claire which wasa bit worrying for a moment, it wouldhave been rosy with a visit to the CorrowHut - but still a good day out.
Wednesday 21st. Claire and Jo had aneasier day setting off at 10.45 for someoff-road biking to Balmoral and anotherlow level bumble for 35 miles or so – veryenjoyable. Tom couldn’t resist moreclimbing and took Barry back to the Passof Ballater where he led Ping Pong (S),Lucky Strike (VS4c), Original Route (VS5a)and made a very good attempt to leadBlutered (E15a). Barry took things a biteasier and led Jumble Blocks Crack (VD),Medium Cool (VS4c), Left Hand Crack(VS4c) and Giant Flake Route (VS4b).Sally, Kay and Bob went for another walkfrom Invercould Bridge up FendallacherBurn to the col between the Carn anSagairts then over Carn an Sagairt Beag(1044m) to the Sturic (1093m) and fromthere to Lochnagar's main summit takingin views of Eagle Ridge on the way.Returned the same way but detoured upto Carn a’ Chaire Bhaideach (1110m). Kayand Bob detoured up and over Carn anSagairt Mar (1047m) whilst Sally carriedon west to bivvy above Loch Callater.
Thursday 22nd: Sally made her way fromher bivvy up the track towards Morroneturning off to Carn na Drochaiche (830m)and Carn Mor before dropping down intoInverey (thanks to Claire for the loan ofher bivvy kit, Bill for the maps and Kayfor the blister plasters!). Claire, Val and Jotook advantage of Bill and Barry drivingto Loch Muick and cadged a lift. Theythen traversed Lochnagar to Keilach carpark adding a few tops on the way –Cuidhe Crom (1083m), Cae Carn Mor, CaeCarn Beag (1110m), Carn an t-SagaireBeag and Mor (1047m). They descendedto Feindallacher Burn and through theBalmoral Forest. A fabulous day – evenbetter traversing the tops. After giving thegirls a lift and keeping them company onthe walk in to Lochnagar, Bill and Barryhad a fantastic day climbing Eagle Ridgein 7 pitches plus a 50m snow pitch at thestart. Tom wanted even more climbing sohe went off on a 1.5 hour drive followedby a 1.5 hour walk in to Clach Na Biennwith Bob, Kay, Dave and Mike. It was
very cold and windy and a long way fromthe car for a short crag! Everyone didPlatform Climb (D), Tom, Dave and Mikedid Outside Left (D) and Bob fell off No. 4Chimney (VD).
Castle Crag, Thirlmere, Lakes24th-25th May ’08Tom Beckley and Barry Wright.
Stopped off for some fun on the wayhome from the Cairngorms. Arrived atlunchtime on the Saturday and ticked offthe classic Zig Zag (VS4b) followed byYew Tree Climb (VD) and Slab Climb(S4a). Then spent some time searchingwithout success for a camp site on a BankHoliday and ended up wild campingbehind Blencathra. After a good lie-in anda late breakfast we spent another hotsunny day on the Sunday ticking theclassic Overhanging Bastion (VS5a) andthe bold Gazebo (HVS5a) before the longdrive home.
Stanage, PeaksSunday 25th May ’08Whilst it was a traditional soaking wetbank holiday in the south Pete A, PeteTemplar and Alex took a chance for a dayat Stanage. Although very windy on thetop it stayed dry all day and we did 6 or 7routes starting at Stanage End with TheAriel (HVD), Prospero’s Climb (VD),Doctors Chimney (S) and then Alexshowed us how it should be done byjamming up Surgeons Saunter Direct (HVS5b). Having failed to even get off theground I then bravely allowed him tolower me down it to recover his gear. Acouple more routes were done at CrowChin, New Year’s Eve (S) and AutumnGold (HS) finishing with the excellent andwell protected Cosmic Crack (VS 4c).
Pete Anderson
PortlandSaturday 7th June ’08Bob Lee, John and Kay King, MikePadmore, Lynne Griffiths, Mick Barnes,Barry Wright, Peter Collins.
For a change we headed south instead ofnorth for a day trip to the sunny islet ofPortland Bill. After a gourmet fry up at theBlue Fish Café, it was down to Blacknorfor a day of clipping good old Britishbolts. We all headed down to Fallen Slab,doing the very photogenic Fallen SlabArete (3) and Fallen Slab (3). Have a lookat Mick posing on the yahoo website.Barry and Peter then headed for theupper cliffs, starting with and almostfinishing with Valerian (5+). Bit of ahorror this one and should have beenavoided. If we had done our home workwe would have realised that everyone hasepics on it, due to blocks coming off, andhalf the route missing, managed to finishit but both of us took considerable falls enroute. So egos dented it was round thecorner to do Cake Walk (6a) and the
classic Sling Shots (5). These routes beingmuch more enjoyable. UnfortunatelyBarry sprained his ankle walking alongthe horrible path below cliffs, so retiredinjured. Everyone else went down to theother slabs down by the sea level and hada good time doing lots of routes. Then itwas back to Weymouth for fish and chipsand a pint before the drive home. Peter C
Ariege, French PyreneesJune ’08Mike Padmore, Mick Barnes, RichardAndrews, Peter Collins.
Another visit down to the Ariege for aweek, after last years successful trip. Thistime staying at Climbariege, a luxurybunkhouse, (if the Northumberlandbunkhouse gets 1 star then this one gets 5stars}. Lots done, highlights being Richardand Peter’s Fleur de Rhodo 350 metres 6a,Mike and Mick’s Dalle Blanche 300 metres4c, both topping out on Dent d’Orlu at2222 metres. Also staying at Estangousehut 2245 metres, with the mostspectacular sunset that evening, and up toMont Valier 2838 metres the followingmorning. A full account from MikePadmore will be in the next newsletter.
Discount mapsand compasses
We are a keen group of mountain walkersand have set up a business -http://www.mapandcompass.co.ukWe sell Ordnance Survey and HarveyMaps as well as Silva Compasses. Wehope you find the site useful and, moreimportantly, you take advantage of thespecial rates that apply to your membersbuying maps and compasses from us.
We offer a volume discount schemewhereby the amount of discount increasesas you buy more maps. If you order twomaps with your first order, you'll recieve a25% discount off the price, if, then youlater order another 4 maps, you enter the6+ category and so for that second orderreceive a 26% discount off the wholeorder. Your discount remains with you solong as you use the same login detailseach time you visit the website. Discountsapply per brand, this is so that we canoffer you more discount the more of thatbrand you buy.
ACC is setting up a Club Account throughwhich all purchases will count to increasethe discount level. This will need all mapsto be purchased through a single contact.Pete Templar has agreed to be our clubcoordinator for this activity. Have a lookat their website and if there is anythingyou would like to purchase get in touchwith Pete either at the pub on Mondays oron [email protected].
7BMC club guidance notes - Leadership and Duty of Care
Club guidance notes - Child Protection and Loco Parentis
All of us were novices at some point,and through a combination of personalexperience and guidance from others, anovice becomes a competent climber ormountaineer. Clubs have always playedan essential role in this process, andshould continue to do so. However,before joining a club, new outdoor usersmay gain experience in a variety of ways,sometimes in situations where someoneelse is partly responsible for their safety.
Clubs are not providers of hill walking,mountaineering or climbing instruction,but many people join all types ofamateur sports clubs wanting to learn,and clubs provide a framework forpeople to share their skills and learnfrom each other. However, it’s importantto state exactly what a club is providing,and to make clear that individuals haveresponsibility for themselves.
If a club member decides to organise atrip, it can be done in many differentways. It could be on the basis that he orshe is simply sharing his or herknowledge, and is in no way qualified orregarded by the club as an expert. Anyless-experienced members must be madeaware that they are electing to takeadvice on this basis, and therefore haveto make a decision as to whether to relyon it or not.
The British Mountaineering Council doesnot require volunteer leaders in a clubenvironment to hold leadership orinstructional qualifications. The BMCrecognises the value of training coursesin enhancing and consolidatingknowledge, whilst supporting the ethosof mountaineering where there are fewshortcuts to genuine experience andwhere mountain skills and leadershipabilities are gained over time throughinteraction with others of similar orgreater experience.
As the National Representative Body forthe sport, the BMC has a duty to ensurethat its members are aware of their legaland moral obligations. This includes
publishing standards of accepted goodpractice. By following a few simpleprocedures Clubs can reduce thelikelihood of a negligent act arising inthe first place.
Everyone has a Duty of Care to notcause harm to others by their acts oromissions. In situations whereindividuals of comparable experienceclimb or walk together (in a Clubenvironment or otherwise), there isoften no discernable ‘leader’, andtherefore each will owe the other anequal Duty of Care, but nothing more.
At times, individuals will find themselvesproviding informal advice, or moreformal instruction, to those lessexperienced than themselves. This couldinclude introducing a newcomer to thesport, or taking a group to themountains, and applies proportionallydepending on the difference inexperience. In this situation, it is vitalthat the person(s) perceived to be ‘incharge’ and/or who has the highest levelof experience, is aware of the greaterlevel of Duty of Care that may be placedupon them. Within this context,individuals have a duty to ensure thatthose in their care are aware of thehazards and risks that may arise.
Put simply, the main question oversuitability to lead is that the objective iswithin the capability of the leader, andthe physical and mental capacity of thegroup. Therefore, if an incident occurred,the person perceived of as ‘in charge’could expect to have to show that theyhad suitable and sufficient experience forthe activity that was undertaken.
Therefore the BMC stronglyrecommends that where advice orinstruction is provided within a Clubtype environment, the Club shouldensure that:
• any person involved is aware of theBMC Participation Statement*, and ismade aware of and understands the risks
pertaining to the chosen activity. (*Asstated on our membership form).
• any person involved is aware thatthose perceived of as ‘in charge’ are notnecessarily qualified, do not need to bequalified, are not regarded by the Clubnor regard themselves as ‘technicalexperts’, but are amateur climbers,walkers or mountaineers with someexperience who are happy to imparttheir knowledge, and that any advicegiven be viewed with this in mind bythe recipient.
• the Club follows the guidance withinthe BMC Club Guidance Notes – it is alsohighly desirable that student clubs arerepresented at the BMC Safety and GoodPractice Seminar.
• individuals leading groups selectobjectives that would normally be withintheir capabilities, and those of the group.
• individuals leading groups should:
i) have an awareness of foreseeable hazards
ii) make those hazards clear to those involved
iii) minimise those risks where possible
iv) be aware of appropriate actions totake if emergency situations do occur.
• in groups containing minors, suitableindividual(s) are appointed to act inloco parentis, exercising the care of areasonably prudent parent, andfollowing the appropriate BMCguidance on dealing with minors,particularly with regard to childprotection issues. The informedconsent of parents must be sought.
By adopting these basic principals theClub and/or individual concerned coulddemonstrate that they had promoted‘good practice’ to the best of theirabilities in the circumstances. Whereapplicable, guidelines or operatingprocedures provided by parental bodies(e.g. a Local Authority, Students Union,etc.) should also be followed inconjunction with this statement.
Occasionally someone from the club takes another under 18 (not their own child) on a club activity, ie on a club meet, or day’sclimbing. This is allowed under BMC child protection guidelines, providing that the member taking the under 18 is acting as locoparentis. In order that both parties understand situation, a loco parentis form has been drawn up for for both parent/guardian ofunder 18 and acting loco parentis to sign. This is attached to BMC child protection guideline, which should be read by both parties.
The above also applies if a club member takes another members child on an activity where the parent is not present.
The forms and guidelines are at the back of the emergency folder, which should be on every club meet. The guidelines are on ourwebsite and loco parentis form will be soon.
“I think we should both get rat-arsed”.
Nick paused, his pint at his lips, and stared sideways at me. What had turned Ms. Placid into an incipient alcoholic? Maybeeverything gets turned upside down Down Under. Nothing so profound, it was just frustration and disappointment. We’d rolled up atGlenorchy, leaping off point for New Zealand’s world famous Routeburn track, already braced with the knowledge that theunseasonably wet and cold weather would make it a tougher proposition. What we’d not banked on was finding the track closeddue to avalanche hazard. Our accommodation bookings, made by necessity back in September, might be cancelled and all our plansand preparations would be scuppered.
Denial is a great thing though. Returningto the kennel (an unlovely but cheap,warm and dry garden shed, marketed as achalet) we nevertheless readied ourbackpacks with sleeping bags, cookingequipment and four day’s food. Ouroptimism paid off and at just past 10amon Friday 1st December (2006) weboarded the minibus to start tramping theRouteburn. The plan was to follow theRouteburn Track from the start at theRouteburn Shelter and head westwardsthrough the Humbolt and Ailsa mountainranges via the Harris Saddle (1277m) tothe Hollyford Valley. From here, just35Km east of Milford Sound, a stunningfjord of ‘Lord of the Rings’ fame, wewould leave the Routeburn track and loopback eastwards over the McKellar Saddlepass following the less visited CaplesTrack south east along the Caples River tothe shore of Lake Wakatipu, a short boatride from our starting point, Glenorchy.We would cover 56Km in 4 days crossingtwo 3,000ft passes and walking throughred, silver and mountain beech forests,grassy river flats, orchards of mountainribbonwood trees and alpine snow-tussock grasslands.
An assorted selection of long distance andday hikers alighted from the bus at theshelter and begin to wind their way onwide, well maintained tracks up towardsthe mountains. With only 8.8Km and500m height gain to cover I dalliedbehind taking photos while Nick racedahead of the pack. We lunched togetherwith the local tomtits on the grassyRouteburn river flats and continued tolighten our rucksacks with early afternoonsnacks whilst sunbathing on the smoothgrey glacier scarred rocks alongside thecrashing water of the Routeburn falls. At1000m it wasn’t surprising that we feltcold once the sun had dropped behindthe peaks but the Routeburn Falls hut waswarm enough and had huge windowsproviding a wild view of beechwoodsdropping down to the criss-crossing linesof water in the braided river valley below. An earlyish start, pre-planned to avoid alarge school group, resulted in an emptypath and the privilege of being alonetogether in this alpine environment. Theplants were fantastic; everlasting daisies,white gentians and huge glossy-greenleathery-leaved white buttercups, theendemic Mount Cook lilies. The snow andthe clear sky turned the lakes we passedinto contrasts of diamond white andsapphire blue. After crossing the pass
above Lake Harris we then headed south,over 1000m above the Hollyford Valley,looking across dense woodland and theman-made grass flats of the valley floor tothe icy, jutting outlines of the peaksopposite. Very quickly we were lookingdown on the varied greens of LakeMcKenzie and next to it McKenzie Lodge.This was a short day again with only 4hours walking.
The evening talk by the warden wasfunny and informative, no nationalityescaped his observations, but we werequite relieved not to be Australians. Hegave us a great insight into the effects ofthe introduction of non-indigenousspecies into New Zealand. For an islandwith no native mammals (apart from acouple of types of bat) the impact ofmice, rats and stoats on the groundnesting bird population has beendevastating. Another major pest ispossums. Being nocturnal (unlike myself)the only ones we ever saw were roadkill.Squashed and dead, or just dead isapparently the preferred state for apossum in New Zealand. A magazine atthe hut enumerated the many and variedways of dispatching the beasts. The mostingenious was a tree mounted trap thatkills them as they put their head in to takethe bait. There was an unintentionallyamusing photo of a proud trapperstanding next to a tree which was stillbeing hugged by an obviously deadpossum after it had been ‘whicked on thebick of the nick’ by this device.
The next day, number 3, was going to bea long one. We had to cover 21Km andclimb over the 945m McKellar Saddle withour large packs. There was a worry aswell that we may have to turn back. Ithad been raining heavily all night, it wasstill raining when we left the hut and theroute information had warned abouthazardous river crossings in theseconditions. We doggedly set off, startingby continuing south above and,eventually along the bottom of, theHollyford Valley passing the very vigorousEarland Falls and possibly one of theworld’s most remote portaloos. The onlystream we has to cross before the ascentwas very slow flowing, but deep enoughto need to take your boots off, roll yourtrousers up and feel the mud squidge upbetween your toes. The climb up to thesaddle was wet too, over rainforest treeroots, mud and slippery, mossy boulders.This was quite a change from themanicured tracks of the Routeburn.
At the cairn at the top of the pass, fourand a half hours after setting out, theclouds cleared and we nipped throughthe bogs on boardwalks with great viewsof the surrounding mountains. The nextsection down through the beechwoodland and crossing small streamsbegan to feel interminable though. Wecouldn’t stop to rest for long as thesandflies, evil midge – like creatures,smelled us and hunted us down. There isa Maori saying that sandflies are the Gods’method of ensuring that you don’tbecome lazy in paradise. As a workincentive it’s not very subtle. I can’timagine that the introduction of swarmsof infuriating bugs all trying to gnawholes in you to lap up your blood wouldget past any trade union representation.Lack of bureaucracy is an obviousadvantage when you are omnipotent.
When we arrived at the Upper Caples hutit was unoccupied (except for a million ofthe vicious little buggers) and unwardened(any connection?). We did have othercompany later; a solitary German ladturned up for the night. He had crossedover from the Greenstone Track using theSteele Creek Track. This is apparentlyindistinctly marked in places through thedense rainforest, he’d also cut his handafter slithering down a slope, socompanionship was very welcome. Plushe didn’t have to add a million littledeaths to his conscience as Nick and I hadalready exterminated the biting menaces.
The last day was an easy 15Km ploddown beside the widening Caples River,through beech forest and meadows withsome root avoidance and small streamcrossings thrown in. Flocks of lime greenparakeets wheeled in and out of the treesand a heard of deer burst from thedappled trees and crashed away throughthe river in a blinding white spray.
It was a relief to drop the rucksack downat the end car park and snaffle theremaining emergency rations as wewaited for the bus / water taxi ride back.It had been a fantastic route, full ofcontrast. There had been riversidemeadows, rainforest, alpine flora, tricklingstreams, crashing waterfalls and silentlakes. Sometimes the landscape feltunnervingly familiar, like Scotland or theEuropean Alps, and then suddenly alien,reminding us that home was half theworld away.
Sally Woodbridge
Double or quits ~ Tramping the Routeburn and Caples Tracks back to back
8
Lake on Harris Saddle
River crossing belowMcKellar Saddle
Emily Peak from RouteburnTrack above Lake MacKenzie
View along the Hollyford Valley to Key Summit
9
Of 18th January, 16th March and 6thJune 2008
PresentClaire Guy, Barry Wright, Bob Lee,Kay King, John King, Moira Gainey,Pete Collins.
Outstanding actions from the lastmeetingBarry still has to call the BMC re the ‘dutyof care’ policy.
MeetsFor future meets a consent form is to beproduced to cover children not with theirparents. A copy will be posted on thewebsite and members informed of this.
Dunmail Raise. Sadly another poorlyattended meet at this hut and the club hasmade a further loss. We have written tothe Booking Secretary and complained athow dirty this hut is becoming. Since thiswas the second time a meet at this hut hasbeen poorly attended it was decided notto use this hut next year.
Tan-y Garth, 16 members attended.
High Moss. Another small attendance butthe minimum costs were covered.
Whillans. Oversubscribed so some peoplecamped.
Scottish/Northumberland combined meet.was very successful.
Dalesbridge. We have paid for the stageand bar for this venue and areinvestigating a speaker. The menu for thewas discussed and it was agreed tonegotiate a price for the club’srequirements. Menu’s will be circulatednearer date.http://www.dalesbridge.co.uk
It was decided to go to Derbyshire inDecember ’08 and back to Swanage in ’09.
Some bookings have been made for 2009.As a general policy the bookings are nowdone month by month one year ahead. Assometimes considerable deposits arerequired this piecemeal booking systemevens out the cash flow for the club.There have to be exceptions to this forvery popular huts.
John will ascertain if members can usehuts for longer weekends on request.
NewsletterFollowing the production of twonewsletters in quick succession (Nov,Jan), the supply of articles then slowedup. As the current log book is stillmissing, it was agreed to start a new one.
Social EventsThe Belaying and Self Rescue course wasa great success. Thanks to Pete Collins fororganising it. Thirty people attended.
Karen Darke has been booked as aspeaker for a lecture on 29th October. She
is not asking a fee but profits will go to acharitable cause that she is supporting.Publicity for this event will start at the endof July with a follow up in September.Ticket price set at £7.50.
The Autumn Barbecue will take place on7th September at Wendover Woods. Bobto be asked to book Green Park frommidday to 16.00. Barbecue site to bebooked to follow this.
The Chiltern Chase is on Sunday 2ndNovember, starting at 10am for Albury.
MembershipCurrent membership is approximately 80.
If people are members of more than oneclub or have individual BMC membershipthen Pete has the forms that allow them toreclaim their BMC affiliation fee.
FinanceThe issue of people that pay for a meeton Monday and are then not able toattend and are expecting a refund wasdiscussed. The decision was that refundswould only be provided in exceptionalcircumstances. Barry to ensure that this isin the first meeting handout notes.
The finances have been audited and werepresented for the AGM.
Bank authorisation forms for the newcommittee have been signed.
Green ParkResumed on Monday 31st March and runsuntil Monday 20th October. It was agreedthat Bob Lee will still arrange Green Parkbut the money will pass through the clubaccounts as previously agreed.
AGMTook place on 21st April.
All committee members were willing tostand again except Bob. A nomination wasreceived for Mick Barnes proposed by MikePadmore, seconded by Lynne Griffiths.
There were no proposals from the membership.
There was an action from the last AGM toreview the level of affiliations anddonations. It was decided to retain thecurrent level on all of them. This providesnearly equal payments to the three mainUK mountain areas that we visit.
AOBThe issue of ex-members still being onthe Yahoo group was discussed and itwas decided that this should be formembers only that and that ex-membersshould be removed.
It was agreed that the BMC maps weregood for our activities and membersshould be reminded of their value in thenext news letter.
Next MeetingTBC
Summary of committee meeting - Bob Lee &Mick Barnes
Chairman’s Welcome
Barry welcomed all to the meeting.
Apologies for absence
Received from, Jackie Verrinder, DicconProctor, Jane Atkin, Gill Beck, MoiraGainey, Ian and Ruth Davison.
Minutes of the last AGM
The report of the last AGM on 23rd April2007 was presented and accepted as thetrue record of the meeting.
Matters Arising
Covered later by the committee’s proposaland recommendations.
Chairman’s Report
Barry thanked the committee for theirwork in the last 12 months and thankedBob Lee for his work on the committeeand Green Park.
Barry commented the number of activenew members and the fact that many ofthem were at the AGM. He speculatedthat the high level of interest in the clubwas due to the recent level of TVcoverage of climbing.
Treasurer’s Report
Club membership of 84 brought insubscription income of £1,443.00,accounting for our three Life Members,and one free subscription won at the BenHeason lecture. Also current subscriptionsfrom 2 new members were included.
Occupancy rate for the meets was almostidentical to last year rising by just 0.5% to74.5%. Guest fees contributed towards theprofit on the year of £137.00 compared toa loss in 2006 of £99.55. The success ofthe Dinner meet in Llanwrst with a profitof £156.00 more than offset all therelatively small losses of other meets.
There were various social eventssubsidised or paid for by Club funds: theJuly Family Meet food to the sum of£123.25; hall hire for the AGM of £25.00;Wendover Woods barbecue at £30.00.
All 2008 calendars were sold. The Clubmet the cost of £26.10 for 3 copies for thearchives, Ramblers Shop and The Climb.
From 16th April to 22nd October 2007,£1,045.00 was collected from members onMonday nights at Aston Clinton Wall asclimbing fees and duly paid on in full toGreen Park management. This is amassive 95% increase on the takings of£536.00 for 2006.
The balance sheet of 29th February 2008shows £597.00 of deposits paid for hutbookings in the coming year with £527.00received from the members booked on theNorthumberland and Cairngorm meets.
The bank account balance was £1,502.64at the year end with the National SavingsAccount balance being £1,459.50.
The Creditors figure of £630.00 relates tothe fees received from members for theAston Clinton Skills Day payable toMountain Activities on 26th April 2008.
Membership Secretary’s Report
Membership for 2006/2007 was 84.Compared with 76 for the previous year.All of the new members are very activeand have also decreased the average age.
The BMC fees are £9.75 per memberwhich comes out of subscriptions.
We have 11 children who are BMC juniormembers via the club.
Members that wish their children tobecome BMC junior members, the cost is£6.65 per child, all of which is passed onto the BMC. For those members that takethis up, Pete will give them a copy of theBMC child protection policy.
Pete stated that we seem to be within theguidelines of the BMC child protectionpolicy but under 18’s need to sleep in thesame room as their parents. Also ifmembers take other people’s under 18’sclimbing there needs to be a clearagreement with the parents that they areaccepting full parental responsibility.
There is a link to the BMC child policydocuments on the ACC website and alsoon Yahoo.
Meet Secretary's report
The low point of the year was May 2007when a meet was cancelled due to lowattendance, there was no cost to the club.
The high point was the Dinner Meetwhich had 34 people (up from 19 theprevious year).
John implemented a couple of changes. Onewas to go to Swanage in December whichwas overbooked in spite of bad weather.The other was a split, one week meet inMay, the first part in Northumberland andthe second part in Scotland.
No major changes to venues are plannedfor 2009, but there is a change to thebooking system. Rather than book thewhole year in advance, for the majority ofhuts, John will book them one by one,just one year in advance each, thisreduces the impact on the club’s finances.
Dunmail Raise was poorly attended forthe second year in a row so for 2009 themeet has been moved back a week andchanged to Raven Crag in Langdale.
Jenny asked if the Scottish meet for 2009could be a full week and in June. Johnsaid that his intention was to book GlenBrittle in Skye in June if available (lastweek of May, first week of June).
Ruth Ward said that she finds the Lakes along way for a weekend and asked if itwould be possible to use some of thehuts for a day or two either side of themeet. John pointed out this is often the
case and he can extend a booking if he isgiven enough notice. It was agreed thatJohn will investigate extending the LittleLangdale meet in June and theBorrowdale meet in November.
Social Secretary’s report
We held the same regular events asprevious years ie. Family Meet, DinnerMeet, Christmas Dinner, Green Parkbarbeque and Chiltern Chase. We planthe same for the forthcoming year.
As has been recorded earlier, the DinnerMeet had very good attendance.
Bob Lee won the Chiltern Chase after theonly other entrant (Richard Andrews) got lost.
The Christmas Dinner at the Broad Leyswent well, the poussin were huge!
We are running the ropes skills course onthe 26th April at Green Park.
We are considering a lecture by KarenDarke in October.
The “Go Ape” course at WendoverWoods was suggested as an event as wasthe orienteering course at the same place.
Ruth Ward suggested canoeing with theMarlow Canoe club, the National Canoecentre at Nottingham was also suggestedbut may well prove too expensive.
Members Activity Report
Barry read Moira’s notes. Only 5 replieshave been received with details for theannual report.
Committee Nominations
Chairman Barry Wright
Treasurer Kay King
Secretary Mick Barnes
Meets Secretary John King
Newsletter Editor Moira Gainey
Membership Secretary Pete Collins
Social Secretary Claire Guy
All were elected en-block.
Proposal and Recommendations fromthe Committee
The committee proposed that -
The subscription for the ACC year 1stMay 2008 to 30th April 2009 shall be £25(currently £18.50 + £5 initial registrationfee for new and lapsed members). At thesame time we wish to introduce a £5renewal discount for payment of annualsubscriptions before 1st June each year.As a consequence Clause 8.3 of theconstitution will be amended to read “8.3Any member who does not renew his/hersubscriptions by the 1st June ceases to bea member”, the current wording being“8.3 Any member who does not renewhis/her subscriptions by the end of Juneceases to be a member and will have topay the initial registration fee to rejoin”.
This was accepted with one against andtwo abstentions.
Report of Annual General Meeting of 21st April ’08 - Bob Lee10
May 2007Skye meet. A brilliant week.
Geoff Bowles led an Air Cadet mountainactivities course out of Capel Curig with asuccessful ascent of Snowdon.
The ACC bank holiday meet was at BlackSail. Geoff biked to the hut fromEnnerdale. He then moved north andwent up Ben Nevis, (recommends thetrain ride from Fort William to Mallaig!).He also bagged a couple of Munros, BenOss and Ben Dubhchraig.
June 2007Jo Alford and Jackie Newman walked theWest Highland Way.
Sally Woodbridge worked for two weeksin the Stubai valley, Austria. Highlightswere the Elferspitzer, with a shortscramble section to the 2631m summitand Blaser with its fantastic alpine flora.Nick Haine and Sally then camped inZinal in the Val d’Annivers in the Valaisregion of Switzerland. The weather wasvery mixed but we had some great walksincluding a two day walk over highpasses to the neighbouring Turtmanntalvalley and to the spectacular viewpointRoc de la Vache.
Several club members were activeclimbing in the Peak District.
July 2007Sally took a school group to WesternKenya and Uganda, undertaking a charityproject at a very rural Ugandan primaryschool and also made an ascent of MountElgol in Uganda.
The Newmans were in the USA, climbingin Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows, LakeTahoe, Smiths Rock and Leavenworth.They made an attempt at Mount Rainierbut a storm came in.
Peter and Jane Collins went to Olot, inthe Garroxa National Park (SpanishPyrenees), an absolute gem of a place.Joined by Bob Lee, Pam Trill, RichardAndrews and Mick Barnes for someclimbing around Tarrascon is in theAriege region of France. Also did a ViaFerrata on Pic Bony in Andorra.
Diccon Proctor, Pauls Day and Nurse,and Pete Ryall had a week inChamonix. Climbed Aiguilles Dorees,Papillons Ridge on the Aiguille Peigne,Couzy route on the L’M.
Bill Russell went walking in the Cairngorms,including Ben Macdui and Lochangar.
August 2007The Wrights had two weeks of greatweather with lots of walking, climbing,via ferratas, white water rafting and someclimbing as well in the Ecrin, French Alps.
The Erwoods went climbing, via ferratas
and walking in Andorra, the Ardeche andthe Dordogne.
A Proctor-Ryall family trip to the Lakes.Walks round Hawkshead area, Eskdale,Wasdale, Tilberthwaite and a bit ofcragging on Heron Crag, Eskdale.
Bill was walking in Jura region of France.
September 2007Dinner Meet, Llanrwst, North Wales. Avery successful weekend, with a meal atThe Tannery Bistro followed by a lecturefrom Tim Bird, a guide working withJagged Globe.
Claire Guy completed the Corsican HighLevel Route the GR20 with a workcolleague. One of the best trips ever doneand highly recommended.
Diccon did a guided climb up CenotaphCorner - a prize for a writing competition.
Geoff visited Ireland with his wife.Kayaking the River Nore fromThomastown to New Ross, and did acouple of solo sea kayak trips inBantry Bay.
October 2007Steve and Jackie were sport climbing inPaklenica Gorge, Croatia.
Bob Lee, Pam Trill, Richard Andrews,Mick Barnes, John King, Lynne Griffiths,Mike Padmore and Peter Collins. Anothertrip to the sunny crags of the CostaBlanca. Cragging done at Marin, Foradaand Sella.
The Erwoods went walking in themountains of Oman.
November 2007The Chiltern Chase, won by Bob Lee.
Geoff led an Air Cadet mountain activitiescourse out of Capel Curig. Taking themup Y-Garn and down the Devil’s Kitchenin the mist, and got them scrambling upTryfan in excellent visibility.
Bill and Gill went to Ecuador, (Jungle,Cloud Forest, Galapagos Island andvolcanoes) walking on Chimborazo andCotopaxi (at 5000m. approx).
December 2007Geoff was slumming it on a business tripto Ottawa, and spent a cold (-17˚C) daycross country skiing in Gatineau Park.Following it with New Year in Oban. Afterone day walking around the island ofKerrera, the main walking event was acircuit over Ben Cruachan in winterconditions - a long day in poor visibility,and a (planned) descent in the dark.
February 2008Steve Newman went climbing in Anti-Atlas, Morocco.
Sally went up to Scotland but, due to highwinds, only managed one
ACC Annual Report 2007/2008The committee’s recommendations were -
a) The guest fee should remain at thepresent level of £2.50 per night.
b) All donations should remain the sameas in 2007/2008, ie.Mountain Rescue Council £3 per memberJohn Muir Trust £25.00
c) The following affiliations should beretained:-BMC £9.75 per member for their financialyear 1st January to 31st December 2008.Snowdonia Society £30(same as 2007/2008)Friends of the Lake District £25(same as 2007/2008)
Note: affiliation subscription fees are setby each association and may increase ordecrease.
These were accepted.
Proposals
None.
AOB
Pete Collins reviewed the arrangementsfor the ropes skills course.
A group have booked a gite in the Southof France and have 3 places left, see PeteCollins/Mick Barnes if interested.
Dress code at the dinner meet wasdiscussed.
There being no further business themeeting closed at 10pm.
11
cont. on page 12
Hawkshead Hall Farm campsiteThis Lake District campsite comesrecommended by Diccon.
A medium size family run site for familiesor couples only. Basic facilities but newshower/loo block/washing area for 2007.
Well run, peaceful, good views and evena ‘bouncer’ on the door to detertroublesome groups! 10 minutes walk intoHawkshead for pubs, shops etc.
Telephone 015394-36221http://www.hawksheadhall-campsite.com
RoachesThere is a Youth Hostel at Gradbachmilland a YHA camping barn at Underbank.
Basic camping at the Hen CloudCampsite as mentioned in Rockfax.
http://www.roachestearooms.co.ukTel 01538 300419
Or White Lee Farm, Blakelow Road,Onecote, Leek, ST13 - looks morecivilized!Tel 01538 304 522
Recommendedaccommodation
http://www.aylesburyclimbing.org.uk http://www.acc.org.uk
Both of the above addresses lead to the same web site. As with the newsletter, anyideas, pictures or other contributions for the web site will be gratefully received.
We also have a Yahoo group site. It is a fast and convenient means of getting in touchwith other club members and finding out what is going on. It also has photos and alog book on it. If you want to subscribe contact Barry on [email protected]
Committee MembersChairman & Web Barry Wright 01525 385211
Secretary Mick Barnes 01844 352102
Treasurer Kay King 01442 236616
Meets Secretary John King 01442 236616
Membership Sec. Peter Collins 01296 434524
Social Secretary Claire Guy 01296 612365
News Editor Moira Gainey 01844 279955
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really good day out, to A’Mharconaich and Geal-Charn in theDrumochter pass. Nick and Sally spent a week, skiing every day,based in a small village just below Alvoriaz in the Porte de Soleilarea of France.
March 2008Steve Newman went ice climbing in Norway.
Diccon and Barry Wright got in a Scottish winter mountaineeringtrip, ticking off Tower Ridge (IV) on Ben Nevis, and Sron naLairg (II) on Sto Coire Sgreamhach, Glencoe.
April 2008Jackie walked the Dartmoor Way .
Geoff ran a one-week Air Cadet course out of an adventuretraining centre at Windermere. He also ran a climbing session inTiberthwaite quarry, mountain biking in Grizedale andkayaking/canoeing on Windermere.
Steve N went ice climbing in Scotland.
Meanwhile...The Landers are getting to know their local mountain - MountMonadnock and have started to do all the 4000 feet mountains inNew Hampshire - 12 done out of the 48 on offer (some in goodwinter conditions). They also went ice climbing on MountWashington and hiking near San Diego - through one of theareas burned 4 years ago, driving through where one of therecent fires happened to get there.
Bob and Pam visited the Faroes and walked round some ofthe islands.
Pete Collins and John King had a few days in the KarwendelMountains north of Innsbruck, having spied a ‘Classic Climb’on the Lamsenspitze, Die Nord Ost Kant, or, to John, TheNorth East Arête.
The Andersons ventured to the Sella region of the Dolomites invarying quantities 3 times in 2007-08. Peter and Debbie had a(child free) week walking, Peter and Chris along with Dave andAlex Sweeney had a fabulous weekend doing via ferratas and thewhole family went skiing in Corvara during the February 2008half term. Debbie and Pete also escaped for two long weekendsskiing, Lech in Austria in January (expensive but excellent snow)and Garmisch Partenkirchen in Germany in March.
For me...I “discovered” the joys of walking up mountains asopposed to bumbling around the countryside (which I also enjoy)last year when I discovered how easy it was to get to the Breconsand Snowdonia for a weekend.
My first trip with the the ACC was to Robertsons hut in the LakeDistrict and I was hooked, joining there and then.(I also learntthat weekend that taking bright turquoise winsiette pyjamasadorned with dancing elephants really isn't a good idea!)Everyone made me feel welcome and Clare very kindly offered towalk with me on the Saturday.
My only other trip with ACC to date was to Snowdonia inFebruary this year - the hottest February on record! It was withsome trepidation as I didn't think any other “girls” were goingand not being in any way a rufty tufty climber, I thought I mayget left out. But I had a great time on both days, walking withdifferent people, and in very different terrain. I went back acouple of weeks later with a pal and led them all over the Glydersand the Carneddau.
For me the great thing about ACC is you can get out and dostuff in the mountains, and, while obviously you have to beable to take responsibility for navigation, first aid etc, it feels alot safer (and a lot more fun) doing it with other like-mindedpeople. I’m booked to go to Scotland with the ACC and amlooking forward to it.
Fiona Broadbent
ACC Annual Report 2007/2008 cont.
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