The Atlanta Orchid Society

Bulletin

Affiliated with the American Orchid Society, the Orchid Digest Corporation and the Mid-America Orchid Congress 2001 Recipient of the American Orchid Society’s Distinguished Affiliated Societies Service Award

Newsletter Editor: Danny Lentz Society Librarian: Elaine Jacobson V olume 45: Number 6 www.altantaorchidsociety.org June 2004

JUNE EVENTS The Meeting:

7:00 PM Monday, June 14, 2004, Atlanta Botanical Garden - Day Hall Annual Tour of ABG Greenhouses

Note Change in Meeting Time! The tour of ABG's behind the scene greenhouses by Becky Brinkman will begin at 7 PM and end at 8:15 PM. AtOS's regular meeting will start at 8:30 PM followed by the usual monthly orchid judging and raffle. Please enter your orchids for monthly judging by 8:30 PM. Since the society does not have a speaker for June, you may bring orchids to sell.

The Auction: Sunday, June 20 AtOS's orchid auction will be Sunday, June 20 at the American Legion Post 140 in Chastain Park. Please bring a covered dish by 11:30 a.m. for the buffet that starts at noon. The auction will start at 1PM. Directions are on page 13. A map will be provided at the meeting. Greengrowers: 10 AM, Saturday, June 26 @ Ben Lyda’s greenhouses Come, see, ask questions. Visiting another grower’s greenhouses and growing areas is always a great way to learn more about the art of growing orchids. If you’re not broke and out of space after the auction, Ben can help you out with some fine selections from his collection. See page 15 for directions.

Atlanta Orchid Society 2004 Officers…………Collector’s Item……Cuitlauzina pendula La LEvents Out and About………………Dates forMinutes of the December Meeting ….Teresa The May Exhibition Table (with notes by RonLessons from the OLD: On slugs, predatory snRecent AOS Awards from the Atlanta Judging Directions to AtOS Auction…………………… Notes on Jan Szyren’s talk about MSU fertiliz Greengrowers Directions, First Quarter Exhib All contents © Atlanta Orchid Society unless o

Inside This Issue ………………………………..….…………… Page 2 lave & Lexarza……Ron McHatton…..…….. . Page 2

your Calendar…………...……….…….……… Page 3 Fuller….…….…...……….………………….… Page 3 McHatton)….………………………………..... Page 4 ails and rent-a-duck services...Eduardo Firpo… Page 7 Center…………………………………………. Page 12

……………………………………………….. Page 13er…..David Mellard…………………………… Page 14ition Table Results, Notices……………………. Page 15

therwise noted.

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COLLECTOR’S ITEM Cuitlauzina pendula La Llave & Lexarza kweet-law-ZEE-nah pend-YOU-lah

Tribe: Cymbidieae Subtribe: Oncidiinae

Etymology: In honor of Cuitlahuatzin, Aztec horticulturist and Govenor of Iztapalpo

The genus Cuitlauzina has but one species, Cuitlazina pendula, a native of western Mexico. This epiphyte, characterized by flattened pseudobulbs with two apical leaves, produces pendent inflorescences from the base of the developing new growth. These are often quite apparent before the new growth is more than an inch or two in length. They emerge from within the lower-most sheathing bract, just barely clearing the bract before turning sharply downward. Once fully developed, the inflorescences can be more than 18 inches long and carry 10 or more 5 cm light pink or white flowers on the distal 6-12 inches of the inflorescence. Mature pseudobulbs are laterally compressed, dull gray green to glossy apple green, about 3 inches tall; and, some wrinkling with age is normal. The two apical leaves, up to 12 inches long, are ligulate, leathery and have no obvious petiole. The plants occur at moderate elevations making them amenable to intermediate growing conditions with moderate shade although they do benefit from cooler nights. A slightly drier rest period after the growth has matured is also beneficial. A well drained porous medium should be used and the plants are intolerant of stale or soggy conditions at their roots.

At various times, this Mexican species has been known by its synonym, Odontoglossum pendulum, and is occasionally still offered under that name.

THE ATLANTA ORCHID SOCIETY

Officers President Evan Dessasau, III 2431 Elkhorn Drive Decatur, GA 30034 404-241-4819 Vice-President/Programs David Mellard 3409 Regalwoods Drive Doraville, GA 30340 770-270-5758 Secretary Teresa Fuller 2090 Rockdale Circle Snellville GA 30078 770-972-2634 Treasurer Scott Smith 481 W. Ontario Ave. Atlanta, GA 30310 404-752-6432 Immediate Past President Linda Miller 135 Pheasant Drive Marietta, GA 30067 770-953-2853 Directors Term Expiring 2004 Frank Decaminada (770) 992-8309 Andrew Dott 404-256-7858 Term Expiring 2005 Mark Reinke 404-622-4872 Jeff Whitfield 706-675-3583 Term Expiring 2006 Richard Ackerman 770-978-6109 Fred Missbach 404-237-1694 Refreshments Photo courtesy of Andy’s Orchids

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MINUTES OF THE MAY MEETING The meeting was opened by president Evan Dessassau. The minutes were approved as written. Scott Smith made an announcement about membership dues. They should be paid to him as soon as possible. June will be our annual visit to the greenhouse at 7:00PM. Becky Brinkman will meet us in Day Hall. Elaine Jacobson announced that we have a new Italian book in the library. Roy Harrow announced that he will be going to the IPA on June 5th, anyone wanting to carpool with him is welcome. Please call him for more information. We welcomed two new members. Refreshments were served and the raffle was held. Raffle plants were donated by Danny Lentz / Dianne Morgan, Margo Brinton / Eldon Park, Doug Hartong, Helen Weil. Silent auction plant went to Reba Heartzfeld. Results Of The Show Table Judging were announced by David Mellard. Judges were; On team one: Pat Cleveland, Ben Lyda, and Richard Hallburg. Team two: David Mellard, Marianne Gilmore, and Doug Hartong. There being no further business, the meeting was adjourned after the speaker. Respectfully Submitted, Teresa Fuller, Secretary

Events Out and About

June Saturday, 6/5. IPA Meeting at Lines Orchids in Signal Mountain., TN. Contact Roy Harrow for details, 770-434-8059

Saturday, 6/12. American Orchid Society monthly judging, Atlanta Center, 2 PM, Atlanta Botanical Garden basement workshop. If entering plants, please try to arrive before 1:30 PM to allow time for research and paperwork.

Monday, 6/14. Atlanta Orchid Society monthly meeting, 7:00PM

Sunday, 6/20. AtOS Auction. Lunch begins at 11:30AM, the auction begins at 1:00PM

Saturday, 6/26. Greengrowers at Ben Lyda’s greenhouses. July Saturday, 7/10. American Orchid Society monthly judging, Atlanta Center, 2 PM, Atlanta Botanical Garden basement workshop. If entering plants, please try to arrive before 1:30 PM to allow time for research and paperwork. Monday, 7/12. Atlanta Orchid Society monthly meeting, Atlanta Botanical Garden, Day Hall. Mark Rose from Breckinridge Orchids will talk about species Paphs. He will be bringing plants for sale. He is currently building a website (http://www.breckinridgeorchids.com), which is expected to be up by June 16. You also can reach Mark by phone at 336-656-7991. The cutoff date for preorders is July 8. Breckinridge specializes in Phals and Paphs.

ORCHID DIGEST DUES INCREASE Orchid Digest dues are being increased due to ever rising publication and shipping costs. Effective 9/1/04, a single year will be $32 and two years will be $60. Anyone who renews prior to the 9/1 cutoff date can still renew at the old rates ($28/$54) regardless of when their subscription ends.

JOIN THE ORCHID DIGEST CORPORATION Don’t let the name fool you, the Orchid Digest is a non-profit membership-based organization dedicated to orchids. Designed to appeal to the mid-range to advanced grower nothing beats the Orchid Digest. For just $28/year you get 4 issues of full-color, in-depth articles about orchids. The magazine is large format and the fourth issue of the year is always an extra-special issue devoted to a single genus. For membership application forms contact David Mellard.

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MAY 2004 EXHIBITION TABLE AWARDS with notes by Ron McHatton

CLASS 1: CATTLEYA ALLIANCE

Pot. David Tomassini

Blue Pot. David Tomassini Collier/Reinke Red Lc. Ann Akagi 'H & R', HCC/AOS Coombs White Broughtonia (Laeliopsis) domingensis Collier/Reinke White Slc. Fire Lighter Collier/Reinke Potinara David Tomassini : This grex is a cross of Lc. Brilliant Orange and Pot. Free Spirit. The latter parent is 50% Sc. Beaufort and its hard to overcome the dominance of Pot. Free Spirit for the production of small to mid-sized yellows that look almost identical to the parent. In this case, Lc. Brilliant Orange is a complex hybrid involving predominantly all unifoliate Cattleya species with Laelia harpophylla and Laelia cinnabarina in the fourth generation back as the

source of orange color. These species are dominant for flower count and color except when paired against Sophronitis coccinea. On the one side a fairly large plant, moderate flower size and numerous flowers per inflorescence and on the other side a small plant with one or two flowers. The result…..a slightly larger plant with one or two flowers slightly larger than Pot. Free Spirit with almost exactly the same color pattern.

Broughtonia domingensis : This is one of those plants that seems to change name with regular frequency. The problem here is what to do with the genus Laeliopsis. Current thinking, apparently based on molecular phylogeny, has dissolved the genus and returned this species to Broughtonia. In any case, this pretty species is endemic to the Hispaniola and Mona Island, a small island off the eastern coast of Puerto Rico. As with other closely related Caribbean species very warm temperatures and typically very bright light are requisites to good culture.

CLASS 2: CYMBIDIUM : No entries

CLASS 3: DENDROBIUM Blue Den. unicum Lentz/Morgan Red Den. unicum Hansen White Den. Haleahi Nymph Lentz/Morgan Dendrobium unicum : This is a good point to draw attention to the problem of nomenclature with plants labeled as Dendrobium unicum. For a fair length of time we have been seeing in cultivation plants with two distinct growth habits both called Dendrobium unicum (and to add to the confusion, Dendrobium arachnites and Dendrobium seidenfadenii). The first of these, having

short upright pseudobulbs and quite intense orange flowers and the other with more cane-like, longer and often semi-pendulous pseudobulbs, and somewhat smaller, lighter flowers. The current thinking now considers them to be two species. One of them, found from India through Myanmar to Thailand is Dendrobium dickasonii and the other, found from Thailand through Laos to Vietnam is Dendrobium unicum. To accurately tell them apart requires a competent taxonomist.

Den. unicum

Vaughnara Grapelade

‘H&R’

CLASS 4: EPIDENDRUM Blue Vaughnara Grapelade 'H & R' Collier/Reinke Red Bardendrum Nanboh Pixy 'Cherry Moon’ Collier/Reinke White Epi. Nursery Rhyme Collier/Reinke Vaughnara Grapelade ‘H&R’ This grex is Bepi. Phoenix x C. schilleriana. The first parent is Brassavola nodosa x Encyclia phoenicea (registered using Epidendrum phoeniceum but nonetheless an Encyclia). You can spot a Brassavola nodosa hybrid from a mile away. I would venture a guess without seeing the plant that without flowers it might actually pass as a very robust example of the species. In this hybrid, some of the beautiful veining of the lip from C. schilleriana has come through but the

flowers are almost entirely dominated in form by B. nodosa and in color from the Enc. phoenicea grandparent. It’s unfortunate that Enc. phoenicea doesn’t more strongly influence flower count in its intergeneric hybrids.

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CLASS 5: ONCIDIUM ALLIANCE

Onc. phymatochilum

Brassia Rex ‘Sakata’

AM/AOS

Blue Onc. phymatochilum 'Easter Cloud' Lyda Blue Brassia Rex 'Sakata', AM/AOS Rinn Red Onc. (Sniffen x Kitty Crocker) Brinton/Park White Mtdm. Issaku Nagata Rinn

'Volcano Queen', HCC/AOS Miltonia phymatochila : This was entered under the name Oncidium phymatochilum but, evidently based on molecular phylogeny, has been moved to the genus Miltonia. Perhaps we would all be better off if we simply removed all our species labels and waited about 10 years to put them back! There has historically been some issue with

this species as it is reported to occur in Mexico, Guatemala, and Brazil; a rather unusual distribution for a single species. The flowers of these two groups are very similar while the growth habits of the two are quite dissimilar. This transfer may only involve those plants called Onc. phymatochilum originating in Brazil and handle those from Mexico and Guatemala as something else but that will take more research.

CLASS 6: CYPRIPEDIUM ALLIANCE

Paph. Memoria Albert

Eickhoff

Blue Paph Memoria Albert Eickhoff Mellard/Marino Red Paph. druryii Brinton/Park Red Paph. Vanda M. Pearman Lentz/Morgan White Paph. (liemianum x victoria-reginae) Lentz/Morgan Blue Phrag. Geralda Brinton/Park Red Phrag. Schroderae Brinton/Park White Phrag. Mountain Maid Brannon Blue Cyp. pubescens Mellard/Marino Red Cyp. acaule Mellard/Marino Phragmipedium Geralda : Phrag. lindleyanum is recessive for shape in most of its hybrids while exerting a dominant influence to darken purple and brown pigmentation. This is the source of the deep purple color in most Phrag. Sorcerer’s Apprentice clones. Here we see it again in this cross involving Phrag. caudatum. In addition to the deep, ricPhrag. lindleyanum has also improved the petal and dorsal sepal presentatflower.

Paphiopedilum Memoria Albert Eickhoff : I would love to know how mplant had since its difficult to tell from the photograph. One of the complakolopakingii hybrids is that the flower count is almost never what the speciproducing (there are reported clones with 15 flowers/inflorescence). In ad

kolopakingii tends to carry its inflorescence in almost a horizontal fashion with the flowers sort of frequiring careful staking of the developing inflorescence. That appears to be the case here as well. clone looks to have excellent color saturation. Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens : A great deal of confusion has existed over the years witreatment of the North American yellow Ladyslippers. At various times they have been all lumped Cypripedium calceolus, now considered to be strictly European, or Cypripedium pubescens. Currenow considered to be one of two distinct varietal forms of a single, widespread species CypripediumThe two forms, var. pubescens and var. parviflorum are usually distinguished based on the size of tintensity of color in the sepals and petals; the small dark form being var. parviflorum (although smavar. pubescens do exist).

Phrag. Geralda

h color saturation, ion in the resulting

any flowers this ints of most Paph.

Cyp. pubescens

es is capable of dition, Paph. acing downward This particular

th the taxonomic under the name ntly, the latter is parviflorum.

he flowers and the ll dark clones of

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CLASS 7: PHALAENOPSIS ALLIANCE Blue Phal. Penang Girl Grzesik Red Phal. Baldan's Kaleidoscope 'Orchid Heights' AM/AOS Brinton/Park White Phal. Bright Peacock 'Sweet Fragrance' Grzesik White Phal. (Golden Circles x John’s Gold) Brinton/Park

Phal. Penang Girl

CLASS 8: VANDACEOUS ALLIANCE

Ascf. Cherry Blossom

‘Apricot’

Blue Ascf. Cherry Blossom 'Apricot' Brinton/Park Red Renanthera Tom Thumb Collier/Reinke Ascofinetia Cherry Blossom : This is an unusual orange clone of this hybrid. The typical clones are either nearly white or various shades of light mauve. It would be interesting to know which of the Ascocentrum ampullaceum varietal forms was used to make the hybrid. It is possible that this one involved the orange form of this species which would explain its orange color.

Dactylorhiza purpurella

Bulb. A-doribil Surprise ‘Stiff Wind’ AM/AOS

CLASS 9: MISCELLANEOUS OTHER GENERA Blue Dactylorhiza purpurella Mellard/Marino Red Gongora truncata Collier/Reinke White Bulb. saurocephalum Whitfield Blue Bulb. A-doribil Surprise 'Stiff Wind' (AM/AOS 5/8/04) Rinn Red Bulb. Lovely Elizabeth Lyda White Masd. Dean Haas Brinton/Park Dactylorhiza purpurella : David…. Please write an article about the cultivation of these plants. The generic name refers to the finger-like tubers of this genus. Currently 22 species are recognized distributed from Europe, through the Middle-east, into Northern China and across to Alaska. The taxonomy of this genus is complicated by the fact that many species freely interbreed and slight habitat changes may often favor the hybrid swarm over the species. Nonetheless they are exceptionally beautiful terrestrials that, years ago, could be found in large colonies over much of Europe.

Bulbophyllum A-doribil Surprise ‘Stiff Wind’, AM/AOS : Bulbophyllum trigonosepalum is one of those Bulbophyllum species that is turning out to be exceptionally dominant in its hybrids. In this case, the resulting flowers are somewhat flatter than the species and somewhat larger but otherwise indistinguishable from it.

Thanks to Bill White and Reba Herzfeld for providing pictures from the May show table.

Page 7 www.atlantaorchidsociety.org June 2004 Lessons From the Orchid List Digest (OLD) : On slugs, predatory snails and rent-a-duck services

© Eduardo J. Firpo, Ph.D. Biology Special thanks to Willis Dair for creating and maintaining the OLD* and to all the OLDers who contributed to this article with their personal observations. By no means the compiled material is intended to be used as a judgment on other people's practices. It has the only objective of pointing out the challenges every orchid grower has to face and the different solutions they are able to develop to make their orchids grow and bloom.

[*] For a description of this and other orchid chat sites on the Internet, see: "Orchids Online" by Greg Allikas, in the AOS magazine Orchids, January 1997, p. 32-38. Introduction Scott Strain (alias Daffy Duck) sent this message to OLD: "Help-Slug Attack! I am having a severe slug invasion. Anyone know a good way to get rid of them? I grow my orchids in lava rock so the slimy balls hide down in the rock. So far, they are only eating the Phal. leaves but they hide out in any of the pots (Dendrobium, Vanda, Oncidium, etc.). I have tried some commercial slug bait but it does not seem to be of much help [ 1]". This note compiles the seventeen responses received in OLD from May 24 to June 13, 1997, to this "orchids in distress" call. Responses given similar "extermination techniques" were placed together to facilitate the judgments between them. Then, answers are not necessarily listed in the order they were sent to OLD. Also, different parts of one entry may be cited under various subjects of this note, depending on its contents. A few entries have been selected to prepare the Remarks section at the end of this article giving instructions on how to take care personally of the slugs . Let's now take a look at the slug control methods sent by these OLDers. OLDer's Methods to Combat Slugs 1. Diatomaceous earth (DE) From Lauderhill, Florida, Sal Cherch sent the first response on how to deal with the slug problem: "Try sprinkling some DE on the plants and around the growing area. It was recommended to me and worked[2]". Natural grades of DE are made of the fossilized remains of one-celled algae, known as diatoms, that were common inhabitants of prehistoric seas several million years ago. It looks and feels like a fine talcum powder, but to an insect it is a lethal dust that both scratches and absorbs

the wax layer on the bug's surface, leaving it to die from dehydration[25]. A member of the San Francisco Orchid Society, Assana Fard, agreed with the use of DE to control slugs. The product, Celatom Diatomite (a chemically treated, swimming pool filter grade DE), was suggested to her by someone at OSH (Orchard Hardware Supply) to control slug infestations: "It's worked great for me and my neighbors. We've been using it for the last couple of months. We just sprinkle the powder (wearing gloves) over the flowerbeds and flowers and it's good till it gets all washed away (about a few weeks) and then we reapply". However, she recommended a combination of methods to get a more effective control: "I've come to the conclusion that no one method works all the way all the time. I use the beer method (see below) periodically and the combination of the two has saved all my plants [14]". Other materials with similar dehydrating properties as the DE -like wood ashes and gypsum- also seem to dissuade slugs from crossing an area sprinkled with them[19]. 2. Slug Pubs Setting out shallow pans filled with stale beer or any fermenting liquid for this matter (yeast and water, spoiled yogurt), buried with the lip flush with the soil surface, is one of the oldest methods of protecting plants from slugs. They cannot resist the scent and they will be found drowned the next morning. The beer method is the "die happy" slug solution suggested by Jessica who wrote: "I have heard, but never tried, that uttering out dishes of beer works great. The slugs are supposedly unable to resist the scent and end up drowing in it. If you try it , please, let me know if it works since it seems nicer than chemicals [ 3]". Sandra, the "Elegant Bee", answered Jessica's question: "Yes, putting out little dishes of beer does help get rid of slugs. You have to set them into the earth, or low enough so the slugs can get into them easily. Sprinkling salt on them also destroys them quickly, they dehydrate immediately (not a pretty sight) but it works [4]". 3. Mechanical Barriers Donna M. Ullian, now a member of the Triangle Orchid Society, North Carolina, but still with many fond memories of her old orchid society in Atlanta, suggested: "I recently was at Chadwick and Son Orchids, outside Richmond, Virginia. Art uses all "natural pesticides" in his greenhouses. He came up with a solution to slugs ... copper flashing. Secure

Page 8 www.atlantaorchidsociety.org June 2004 copper flashing to your benches (bottom of upper ledge). It works, he swears the slugs do not like copper. They crawl up and do an about-face when them come up to the copper flashing. One drawback: it is a bit expensive but your collection is worth more! I use it on my benches and I do not have a slug problem [6]". A similar approach is also indicated by Charles Sowle Price, Plant Chair of Northern Nevada Orchid Society: "I have wrapped the legs of my wood benches with bare copper wire. No more slugs! [5]". J.L. Spitzer was experimenting with the effectiveness of mechanical barriers: "One experiment involves copper tape around the edges of the pots, another has copper pennies stuck to the pot rims, and the third has all the pots that are outside sitting on racks of stumps covered with heavy duty aluminum foil. So far, no signs of slug damage, in spite of our very wet weather [18]". She also tried thin copper foil (the one that comes in rolls from stained glass supplies) and wrapped it around the edges of her pots: "Result: all of the untreated pots were invaded at one time or another, usually after every rainstorm, by slugs. But NONE of the treated pots were bothered at all [24]". Copper is very toxic to slugs and snails. Some studies indicated that copper is effective because slugs and snails actually get an electric shock when they touch it. It's theorized that the slug's slimy coating interacts chemically with the copper, creating an electric current. To securely protect plants on greenhouse benches by placing copper strips around bench legs, be sure that the benches don't touch the greenhouse wall or glazing. Securing strips of copper as a permanent edging for greenhouse tables is an effective but expensive way to keep slugs at bay [25]. Aluminum sheets, bent in U-shapes with the arms of the U "large enough", are, purportedly, a good remedy since slugs may not crawl the horizontal overheads of this barrier [19]. 4. Heat Method For those who grow organic, like Bod Dudley from Lehigh Valley, Philadelphia, getting rid of slugs without employing commercial slug baits is very hard. He prefers potting material that has been steam treated or, since it is difficult to find this material nowadays, he sterilizes small batches of medium at a time (Caution: it does smell!). He recommended to Scott this solution: "Slug and snails eggs are in the potting material and these materials should be heat treated to kill the eggs. The plants and pots should be inspected every time they are watered and if there is a suspicion of snail and slug damage the plant should be unpotted [7]". Bob also indicated another "interpretation" on how

the beer method should work, which is explained in Remarks. 5. Metaldehyde "Unfortunately, the only effective control that I have seen is metaldehyde [8]". This observation, first made by Eric Muehlbauer while criticizing some of the other methods (see Critics), soon received more support: a) From Willis Dair: "I would have to agree. I like Deadline and Deadline type products. They are liquid metaldehyde. We use it all over the garden [10]". b) From Alan Rossing, newsletter editor of the Carmel Orchid Society: "I have found the best is Deadline or its equivalent. Cut up a sheet of writing paper into 2" squares and apply a small amount of Deadline to the paper. Then, place these around the pots on the bench and on top of the mix. It will dry out but still be effective, plus every time you water the Deadline is reactivated just when the critters are coming out. If you can find paper that they like to eat, even better, as that will attract them [11]". c) From Troy C. Meyers, living in Poulsbo, Washington: "Like Eric Muehlbauer and Willis Dair, the only really successful slug control that I have found is the liquid metaldehyde such as Deadline. I do use liquid metaldehyde in "traps" in my greenhouse, which are covered trays with open sides, allowing slug passage but not dilution of the bait by falling water [9]". Troy, who lives near woods in the Evergreen State, also contributed with a personalized way to eliminate slugs from his surroundings but, unfortunately, he's never yet won a battle against them (See Remarks). d) From Harry Tolen, newsletter editor of the San Diego County Orchid Society: "Best all around slug and snail bait is metaldehyde granules. Looks like sand, strength is 7.5% and it works! After the second distribution you will not have a slug or snail problem. I get it from the local wholesale nursery supply [12]". Harry, with the experience of managing large collections of different orchid species for many years, also explained why the beer method didn't work for him: "I also have been told about putting out saucers of stale beer to attract and drown slugs. It will also drown roaches who have the habit! But, I never have had any beer go stale around here so have never been able to try". e) From Kay Little: "Tried the beer, tried the bait and nothing worked, especially in the Phals. OFE (a USA horticultural supply company - Ed.) suggested Slug-Fest. It's a liquid concentrate that's fairly expensive, however, it works! I haven't seen a slug or snail anywhere [13]".

Page 9 www.atlantaorchidsociety.org June 2004 6. Cupric Hydroxide The original entry sent by Charles Sowle Price, Northern Nevada Orchid Society, also indicated this other product to combat slugs: "I have had good luck with Kocide 101 (Cupric Hydroxide) available from Hummert International or E.C. Geiger (USA suppliers - Ed.)[5]". 7. Predatory Snails Predatory decollate snails (Rumina decollata) have a varied menu to choose from: brown garden snails (bush snails), common slugs, decaying vegetable matter, and, if those food sources are scarce, living seedlings and transplants. Therefore, there is a potential risk that these snails may become a serious pest in their own right, particularly, because there are no natural predators that eat them. These snails are used very successfully in commercial citrus groves in California where they do no harm to established trees and provide excellent control of the brown snails[25]. Brown snails, although commonly not a serious pest for orchids since they feed mostly on algae and mosses, they are difficult to eradicate. They are not attracted to slug bait and metaldehyde liquid products do not seem to affect them. Predatory snails might be an effective way to control them and, as a bonus, common slugs may also be included as part of their normal diet. A commercial supplier in Montana, Planet Natural, offers decollate snails to control slugs and common garden snails. Eric Muehlbauer decided to try them to protect his orchids from slugs and he provided us with some information in this sense: "According to the catalog, they can eventually achieve 100% reduction of pest snails (bush snails) and 50% reduction of slugs. I would assume that the lower percentage for slugs is based on size. These snails (Rumina decollata) are about 3/4 inch, none more than 1 inch. I would assume that they must do a good job on small slugs, but are unable to eat large slugs. The snails follow the slime trails produced by their prey, track them down and eat them. It's too soon for me to be talking from experience. All my information has come second hand, from the catalogue. By the way, these snails are banned in parts of California, and perhaps other areas of the West coast, as they are considered a threat to native species[20]". 8. Ducks and Rent-a-Duck Services The initial entry recommending ducks to control slugs came from Max Redman, living in Sydney, the city of the 2000 Olympics, and it was as follows: "There is one thing that I have not seen anyone mention and, believe me, it really works. A couple of Indian Runner ducks! Don't laugh! A couple or more ducks running around will completely clear the place

of slugs and snails and, as an added bonus, the eggs are pretty good also. The only problem is that one needs to have an area that can be fenced off as, otherwise, the ducks tend to disappear. Also, I don't know how they would go if you grow in a basement. Of course, in that case you may not have any problems. Friends of mine grew something like 5000 cymbids as well as other genera and after putting in the ducks they never had any more problems. By the way, the plants were all on benches but the ducks did not attack the plants at all. Try it, you may like it, and it also gives the ducks a chance [15]". Max's suggestion received the support of Manfred Schmucker, newsletter editor of the Vienna Orchid Society, Austria. He sent this entry based on his personal observations of some of the ducks in a friend's garden: "I can only support the message of Max Redman on the Indian Runner ducks. A friend here in Austria has some of them in his garden and no more slugs since then! They are outside all year round, even in snow and frost. They have a little dog-house as a home and a submerged old bathtub as a pool and receive in the winter time some additional food (no slugs). Highly recommended [16]". An upgrade in the use of ducks to control the slug population was also contributed by Manfred: "The interesting thing is that this summer the concept of slug control by ducks went out of hiding and the first rent-a-duck service by breeders has appeared in Northern Austria. The method for duck renting described (from newspaper features and personal communications) is as follows: for an amount of approx. US$10 per week you can rent a pair of ducks, including safety cage and some corn fodder. One to two weeks is recommended to get the slug population down. The safety cage is provided to protect the animals during travel and, mainly, during the night from stray cats, minks and other predatory-minded animals in the neighborhood. As far as I know, the customer has to fetch and bring back the ducks. So far, I have not talked to anybody who has actually tried the service. I only know one owner, a friend in Tyrol, who has been happy with them for more than two years [21]". Critics Voices of discontents with the effectiveness showed by some of the above methods soon appeared: 1. "I have yet to find an organic method of slug control that actually works. I have always tried beer traps in the garden (Why waste good beer? Yeast and water will do the same job). I find plenty of slugs dead in the beer, and plenty more alive and well

Page 10 www.atlantaorchidsociety.org June 2004 beneath the container. And lots more alive and well and very well fed on the plants they stopped to munch on along the way! As for DE, it is totally useless. I have seen slugs completely devour lettuce and pepper plants that were literally dusted all over with it, and before rain or watering washed it away. It doesn't seem to work on insects, either. I had a student do an experiment using DE on both crickets and mealworms. Neither group, experimental or control, had any fatalities[8]". 2. "Beer does indeed attract and drown some slugs, but I'm afraid many just slide home crooked. Copper wire and foil tends to repel slugs, but they are very clever about finding alternate routes, and some "stomach" actual contact with it, seemingly knowing that temporary discomfort is worth the goal. Furthermore, barriers such as copper will keep a slug in as well as out, so they may be inclined to take up residence in a pot [9]". 3. "I've tried the beer and I don't find it effective on my slugs. Have used slug baits, metaldehyde and pelleted stuff, with minimal effectiveness -it gets stale, washes away, etc- [18]". 4. The main concern for the use of "slug killers" containing metaldehyde is the risk of toxicity produced by accidental ingestion of this pesticide in domestic pets and, as the next entry explains, for wildlife animals too. Lets take a look at Troy C. Meyers observation: "I do use liquid metaldehyde in "traps" in my greenhouse, which are covered trays with open sides, allowing slug passage but not dilution of the bait by falling water. The traps also keep dogs and cats from getting the bait, which smells good to them but is very, very toxic. I heard a report on the news recently that stated that the last year over 500 dogs were poisoned in the Seattle area by metaldehyde. Until recently, I used the "traps" in the outdoor areas, but I had to quit. It is true that the traps prevent dogs and cats from getting into the bait, but usually the slugs, after eating their fill of bait, crawl out and lose muscular control near the traps. Also, the ones that die in and out of the traps are consumed by maggots, beetle larvae, sow bugs, and earwigs. With shock one day I saw a robin and a varied thrush eating both the maimed slugs and some of the other invertebrates just named. These birds were collecting food for their nestlings. I don't have much of a slug problem in the greenhouse, and only occasional trap-baiting eliminates any that sneak in. The slug corpses in the greenhouse don't seem to be devoured by the other critters, so I still feel comfortable using it there [9]".

5. The feasibility of the "Duck method" was challenged by Colin Hamilton, Publications Director of Orchids Australia. His main concerns were how to keep the ducks between the boundaries of your greenhouse and what to do with their "messy deposits" around the place[17]. According to Max Redman, one way to deal with preventing the ducks flying away from the area is by clipping their wings or having them in an enclosed orchid house. The most difficult part is to train them to do their job under the benches and not in the paths: "Apart from that, snails and slugs are gone, weeds are being kept down under the benches, and the eggs taste wonderful [22]". Discussion Going through all the answers it is very difficult to pick one as the best solution. All have their pros and cons. Commercial baits (granules/pellets) or liquid products -like Deadline - containing metaldehyde received the highest scores in effectiveness by some OLDers. The dark side of this approach is the risk of toxicity by accidental ingestion in domestic animals and, likely, an environmental concern too, when these products are used in large, open areas. When they are applied inside greenhouses and in a controlled way - like spraying Deadline on small pieces of paper, on top of the compost in potted orchids, or placing it inside a specially designed trap- the potential for risks is greatly reduced. For those reluctant to use chemical products, a combination of two different techniques used periodically seems to offer a good level of protection -in example, the beer method and DE-. Still, there is an additional option open: the use of "biological weapons". In these battles, one species is against another species. In this scenario, our hopes are that the good guys, which in theory will swiftly eliminate the bad guys, will not develop themselves as future "enemies". However, except for the idea of using ducks as a slug control measure -very efficient although not necessarily a "clean" method-, other biological control approaches deserve a careful and very attentive look. Predatory snails could be an elegant way to reduce the slug population, but there is some concern about how safe they could be for the environment. Conclusion Scott Strain, who started the "slug attack" thread in OLD, pointed out that "my greenhouse now is slug free". He attributed this success to the use of Deadline, a liquid product containing metaldehyde. The product was put in the clay pots (a circle around plants) where slug infestation was suspected.

Page 11 www.atlantaorchidsociety.org June 2004 Metaldehyde in granules presented a few inconvenients: "I managed to kill a few of my orchids as well as the slugs because it would clog up the pot in the lava rock and drown the roots. Sprinkling the granules on the bench didn't do much since the slugs were living in the pots down among the lava rocks[23]". Remarks These personal solutions to the slug problem deserve being considered in their own class. I left to the readers the judgment regarding efficacy and practicality: Bob Dudley's crushing technique: "I have always had problems with slugs in my garden and I have tried the beer trick many times with little success. Then, one day I discovered the trick. You need some rubber gloves. First, you consume the beer. Several bottles of beer, in fact. After consuming the beer, you put the gloves on, hunt down the little beasts and crush them between your fingers! [7]". Troy Meyers' skewering: "Outdoors, to be kinder to our wildlife, I have been using a labor intensive, fairly disgusting method to battle the slugs. In my forest, there is one native slug (commonly called a "banana slug") that doesn't do much damage to plants; it feeds mostly on detritus. The other slugs, all imports, vastly outnumber the native slug. The imports have a "nasty" habit of eating each other, regardless of species. Generally, this cannibalism (not necessarily the right word in all cases) only occurs when a slug has been maimed. But, as soon as a slug is in distress, others troop over and devour it. This behavior is probably really an excellent survival tactic because the slug-victim has spent hours and days collecting its food, and all that can be had in a few minutes by the eaters. Unfortunately for the slugs, it is an opportunity for me to wreak mass destruction. If I wound one slug (avoiding the natives), its distressed scent becomes a powerful attractant and, at least, five show up soon to eat it. I then skewer them also, and another twenty show up. The skewering continues until I can't stand it any more. The battle is never won by me, but the reduction in plant damage does seems to be noticeable[9]". Max Redman's "big foot" solution: "I have been following the writings on the problem with slugs and snails with some interest and also, I must admit, a little laughter at times. They are nasty little things and no matter what you try there will be some that will normally escape. A size ten boot will work

wonders if you can find them and I really liked Troy's method of shish kebab sticks [15]". References Orchid ListDigest: [1] Daffy Duck v1047 #14700; [2] Sal Cherch, v1050 # 14751; [3] Jessica v1051 # 14774; [4] ElegantBee, v1054 #14829; [5] Charles Sowle Price, v1052 #14785; [6] PrimaD22, v1057 # 14890; [7] Bob Dudley, v1052 #14791; [8] Eric Muehlbauer, v1053 # 14810; [9] Troy C. Meyers, v1057 # 14889; [10] Willis Dair, v1053, # 14810 footnote; [11] Alanrr, v1057 #14882; [12] Harry Tolen, v 1056 # 14867; [13] Kay, v1053 # 14814; [14] Assana Fard, v1057 #14886; [15] Max Redman, v1061, # 14956; [16] Manfred Schmucker, v1065, # 15013; [17] Colin Hamilton, v1064, #15009; [18] J.L. Spitzer, v1056, #14877. Private email: [19] 08/29/'97 Manfred Schmucker; [20] 08/31/'97, 09/01/'97 Eric Muehlbauer; [21] 08/27-28/'97 Manfred Schmucker; [22] 08/27/97 Max Redman; [23] 09/04/97 Scott Strain; [24] 09/08/'97 J.L. Spitzer. Other sources: [25] Rodale's Chemical-Free Yard and Garden, 1991. Comments? efirpo@fred.fhcrc.org [ Editor’s Note: Roy Harrow made the following comments after reading the article: “I use the metaldehyde granular material sold at Lines and it works just fine for me. I've always assumed that there will be 5% that don't find the bait and some new ones that crawl in from the outside. It just needs to be applied correctly, AFTER WATERING, and realize that the next time you water you have ruined the last bait you put out. I also have bait plants (amaryllis flowers) that let me know when I need to do something before they begin to do apparent damage to the orchids… Remember to keep the run-off from the copper away from the bromeliads / tillandsias. I was told that they are very susceptible to its effects.” ]

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RECENT ACTIVITIES OF THE ATLANTA JUDGING CENTER The following awards were granted at the April session of the AOS Atlanta Judging Center. They are provisional awards pending official publication in the Awards Quarterly. Certificates of Horticultural Merit and Certificates of

Botanical Recognition are also provisional pending identification by an AOS certified taxonomist prior to publication of the award.

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Blc. Husky Boy ‘Romeo’ HCC 77 pts Exhibitor: Barney & Aileen Garrison

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C. forbesii ‘Panther Creek II’ HCC 76 pts Exhibitor: Barney & Aileen Garrison

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Phrag. Jason Fischer ‘Casey Elizabeth’ AM 87 pts Exhibitor: Carter & Holmes Orchids

Max. callichroma ‘Ramona Lee’ CHM 83 pts (provisional) Exhibitor: Fred Missbach

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C. skinneri var. oculta ‘Alaine’ AM 81 pts Exhibitor: Carter & Holmes Orchids

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Paph. philippinense ‘Orchidland’ HCC 79 pts Exhibitor: Peach State Orchids

Page 13 www.atlantaorchidsociety.org June 2004

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Den. Vintner’s Reserve ‘Ramona Lee’ AM 80 pts Exhibitor: Fred Missbach

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Onc. Memoria Bill Carter AM 84 pts Exhibitor: Carter & Holmes

Directions to the Auction: We hold our Auction at Post 140 of the American Legion. This meeting hall is onsouthern edge of Chastain Memorial Park at 3905 Powers Ferry Road. From GA 400 South: South to the Buckhead loop. Take the loop to Piedmont Rd and go north. Turn rigRd. The first left will be Powers Ferry Rd. Turn left. Watch on your right just as ypark. The driveway is difficult to spot. From I75: Take I75 to I285 to Roswell Rd. Go south (inside the Perimeter) to Powers Ferry Watch for the driveway on your right at the south end of Chastain Park. From I85, take Piedmont Rd north to Roswell Rd. Turn right on Roswell Rd. ThePowers Ferry Rd. Turn left and take Powers Ferry toward Chastain Park. Look foLegion driveway on your right just as you see the park. If you haven’t been to our auction before, this event is always a lot of fun. Lunch a dish to pass) is at 11:30 and the bidding begins at 1PM. There are always good great plants. See you ALL there!!

‘Mary Ellen’

Orchids

the immediate

ht on Roswell ou get to the

Rd. Turn right.

first left will be r the American

(pot luck, bring bargains on

Page 14 www.atlantaorchidsociety.org June 2004

Notes from Jan Szyren’s Talk About the MSU Fertilizer by David Mellard

What follows are some of my notes on Jan Szyren’s talk about the MSU fertilizer with some added explanations and pointers by me, usually as “Note”. 1. Plants, including orchids, have historically been over fertilized.

2. Plants not only need nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium but also need trace elements, such as sulfur, calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, and molybdenum.

3. Two forms of the fertilizer are available. One form (the Orchid Well Water Special) should be used for hard water, that is, water with a high level of total dissolved solids. Such water has naturally high levels of calcium and magnesium, for instance several hundred ppm. The second form (Orchid RO Water Special) should be used for soft water, that is, water with a low level of total dissolved solids. Such water has low levels of calcium and magnesium. Reverse osmosis water and rainwater have low levels of TDS, typically from 0 for RO water to 20 ppm for rainwater. (Note: please do not confuse treated water that is used to “soften” water. Water treated in this way is sometimes referred to as soft water but actually has high levels of sodium, which can be toxic to plants if used repeatedly.)

4. Water from most of the municipalities around Atlanta has low levels of calcium and magnesium, that is, has low TDS. You can contact your water provider to learn the TDS level. Municipal water around Atlanta should be about 40 to 50 ppm. Orchid growers using municipal water around Atlanta should use the Orchid RO Water Special.

5. Jan suggests mixing ½ teaspoon of MSU fertilizer for each gallon of water. This results in a solution that contains 125 ppm of nitrogen.

6. Jan suggests using water with fertilizer almost every time you water and that it is very important to flush the pot with lots of water to prevent build up of salts in the mix. Occasionally, omit the fertilizer when watering. For instance, every 3rd, 4th, or 5th time use only water (without fertilizer). For Paphs and Pleurothallids, alternate the fertilizing schedule, that is, use water with fertilizer one time and just water the next time. 7. Use fertilizer year round. (Note: exceptions might be plants that are truly resting or dormant.)

8. Use a fish emulsion fertilizer once a year.

9. For Paphs and Pleurothallids, do not increase the ppm level of fertilizer. For other orchids that are “heavy” feeders, higher ppm levels of fertilizer might give even better results, especially during active growth. Examples include Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, and Cymbidiums but you should “experiment” to see how your orchids respond.

10. A host of other factors besides MSU fertilizer are important in having your orchid perform well. These include light conditions, humidity, temperature, temperature fluctuations, and growth/rest periods to name a few. Know your orchids’ special requirements.

11. Sources of MSU fertilizer include: Hilltop Orchids (765-795-6016), Green Acres Orchids (517-543-5670), Galaxy Orchids (989-433-5886), and the Blackmore Company (800-874-8660). Small quantities (1 to 25 pounds) can be ordered from Hilltop Orchids (for $5 to $36 plus shipping). Blackmore Company sells only 25 pound bags ($35 plus shipping).

12. In an email after her talk, Jan added that two companies offer “tweaked formulas.” The Blackmore Company will make a custom formula. Roberts Floral Supply (440-236-5571) has a tweaked formula with higher phosphorus levels. Note: the Blackmore Company is where Bill Argo works, the author of the recent articles about plant nutrition that have been in the AtOS newsletter.

The June 2003 issue of Orchids Magazine has an article by Jan about the MSU fertilizer.

For

For alsomorin ODav

JOIN THE AMERICAN ORCHID SOCIETY $46.50/year, you reap the following benefits:

• 12 issues of Orchids, the Society’s monthly full color magazine chock full of insightful articles and tempting ads for plants and supplies.

• 10% off on purchases from the Society’s Bookstore and Orchid Emporium.Reduced or free admission to participating botanical gardens.

a limited time, if you join for two years ($84) you will get a $30 gift certificate (good on an order of $100 or e) at any one of 13 commercial growers who advertise rchids. JOIN TODAY. For information, contact id Mellard.

Page 15 www.atlantaorchidsociety.org June 2004

Notice: AtO David Mellard is creatingthose people who have c get the newsletter via em2nd email list is to send othat come up between mis using the newsletter diannouncements. If you gmail AND if you want toactivities via email, pleas(DMellard@cdc.gov) anto the announcements listhe newsletter via email, David.

Greengrowers : Ben Lyda Saturday June 26, 2004 10:00-12:00 1925 Idlewood Rd in Tucker Ben will have plants for sale. DIRECTIONS: From Spaghetti Junction (I-85 and I-285), take I-285 East to the Lavista Rd. exit. Turn left on Lavista Rd. and go about 3 miles. Turn right on Main Street (there will on be a school on the left). Take Main Street 3 lights, name of the street will change to Idlewood. Ben’s driveway, about 200 yds after the third light, is on the left across from a fire hydrant. The mailbox is past the driveway, so if you get to the box, turn around .

Monthly Exhibition Table Judging Results First Quarter 2004 Quarter Name Jan Feb Mar Total Hallberg 16 9 11 36 Lentz/Morgan 7 7 18 32 Rinn 21 11 32 Brinton/Park 15 13 28 Gilmore 22 22 Collier/Reinke 3 6 8 17 Hartong 1 8 8 17 Lyda 15 15 Dampog 3 10 13 Hansen 3 9 1 13 Mellard/Marino 7 7 Emerson 6 6 Jacobson 5 1 6 Nierenberg 6 6 Missbach 5 5 Thurner 5 5 Walkosky 3 3 Frank 1 1 Nowell/Kiermaier 1 1

To submit material for the newsletter, or to sign up for the email version of the newsletter, please contact Danny Lentz: DBLGONGORA@BELLSOUTH.NET MAIL TO: Danny Lentz 1045 Wordsworth Dr. Roswell, GA 30075

The deadline for submissions is the 20th.

S Email Lists

a separate email list for omputers but who do NOTail. The purpose of this ut any announcements

eetings. Currently, David stribution list for special et the newsletter via snail be notified of society e email David

d let him know to add you t. If you already receive you don’t need to contact

Please visit our web site at http://www.atlantaorchidsociety.org . If you have suggestions or, better yet, material to contribute to the site, contact Tom Kaschak at 678-474-9001 Remember that Tom is a volunteer also and will certainly appreciate the help.