Upload
asm-towheed
View
493
Download
10
Tags:
Embed Size (px)
DESCRIPTION
Assignment on Garment Manufacturing - Quality Control.pdf
Citation preview
Table of Contains
Name of Topic Page No
Page 2 of 48
Quality Control Aspects Of Garment Exports
Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality
increases the value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds
up good reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn results into
consumer satisfaction, high sales and foreign exchange for the country. The
perceived quality of a garment is the result of a number of aspects, which
together help achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer.
Therefore quality control in terms of garment, pre-sales service, posts -sales
service, delivery, pricing, etc are essentials for any garment exporter.
For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name
amongst consumers and fellow companies it is important to maintain a level
of quality. Especially for the businesses engaged in export business has to
sustain a high level of quality to ensure better business globally. Generally
quality control standards for export are set strictly, as this business is also
holds the prestige of the country, whose company is doing the export. Export
houses earn foreign exchange for the country, so it becomes mandatory to
have good quality control of their products. In the garment industry quality
control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to
the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product
quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric
construction, color fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment
products. However quality expectations for export are related to the type of
customer segments and the retail outlets.
There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is
based such as - performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality
of the garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular
framework of cost. The national regulatory quality certification and
international quality programmers like ISO 9000 series lay down the broad
quality parameters based on which companies maintain the export quality in
the garment and apparel industry. Here some of main fabric properties that
are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for export basis:
- Overall look of the garment.
Page 3 of 48
- Right formation of the garment.
- Feel and fall of the garment.
- Physical properties.
- Color fastness of the garment.
- Finishing properties
- Presentation of the final produced garment.
Sourcing of Fabrics
There are certain problems that could be faced by garment manufacturers
when sourcing for certain fabrics, so precautions should be taken for it
beforehand to minimize the problems. The garment exporters source cotton
fabrics mainly from handloom sectors, power looms and mills. Each of these
sectors presents their own unique set of problems to the garment exporters.
Sourcing cotton from handloom sectors might present some set of problems
like color variation, missing ends and picks, irregular weaves and unreliable
supplies. However, the handloom sector is significant source of heavier cotton.
Common problems faced in power loom cotton sourcing are broken ends and
reed marks, thick and thin places, difference in width and massive variation in
costing. The major problem in mill-made fabric sourcing is to meet huge
demands from the mills. Fabrics have to be ordered well in advance in mills
and the long time taken for producing the fabric is a matter of concern for
garment exporters. Mills generally hesitate to take small orders which pose a
problem for small scale exporters.
It is not that sourcing problem which only confined to cotton fabrics, but
also to other fabrics as well. In silk garment industry there are some sorts of
problems faced by silk garment exporters. Some of the problems that could
be faced by silk garment exporters are as follows:
. Shortage of imported silk yarns in the quantities required, as a result
delivery is delayed.
. Silk material is very vulnerable to stains during manufacturing process as
well as stocking, staining results in rejection so a lot of care has to taken
during these procedures.
. Roll length of the silk yarn is often insufficient.
Page 4 of 48
. Color fastness of dyed silk material is sometimes not satisfactory.
. There are also chances of warp breakage.
Basic Thumb Rules for Garment Exporters
For a garment exporter there are many strategies and rules that are required
to be followed to achieve good business. The fabric quality, product quality,
delivery, price, packaging and presentation are some of the many aspects that
need to be taken care of in garment export business. Some rules that are
advisable for garment exporters are listed below:
- Quality has to be taken care by the exporter, excuses are not
entertained in international market for negligence for low quality
garments, new or existing exporters for both it is mandatory to use
design, technology and quality as major up gradation tools.
- Apart from superior quality of the garment, its pricing, packaging,
delivery, etc has to be also taken care of.
- The garment shown in the catalogue should match with the final
garment delivered.
- It is important to perform according to the promises given to the
buyer, or else it creates very bad impression and results in loss of
business and reputation.
- In international market, quality reassurance is required at every point.
- Proper documentation and high standard labels on the garment are
also important aspects as these things also create good impression.
- Timely delivery of garments is as important as its quality.
- If your competitor has the better quality of garment in same pricing,
it is better to also enhance your garment quality.
- Before entering into international market, garment exporters have to
carefully frame out the quality standards, or else if anything goes
wrong it could harm the organization. And after that strictly follow it.
- The garment quality should match the samples shown during taking
the orders.
- The garment exporters should know to negotiate a premium price
after quality assurance is done.
Page 5 of 48
Quality is a multi-dimensional aspect. There are many aspects of quality based
on which the garment exporters are supposed to work.
- Quality of the production.
- Quality of the design of the garment.
- Purchasing functions' quality should also be maintained.
- Quality of final inspection should be superior.
- Quality of the sales has to be also maintained.
- Quality of marketing of the final product is also important as the
quality of the garment itself.
See to it that......
There are certain quality related problems in garment manufacturing that
should not be overlooked:
Sewing defects - Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same color
garment, but usage of different color threads on the garment, miss out of
stitches in between, creasing of the garment, thread tension and raw edges
are some sewing defects that could occur so should be taken care of.
Color effects - Color defects that could occur are - difference of the color of
final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong
color combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.
Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a
garment part from other, for example- sleeves of 'XL' size but body of 'L'
size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too.
Garment defects - During manufacturing process defects could occur like -
faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button
holes, uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colors.
Conclusion
Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality
increases the value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds
up good reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn results into
Page 6 of 48
consumer satisfaction, high sales and foreign exchange for the country. The
perceived quality of a garment is the result of a number of aspects, which
together help achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer.
Therefore quality control in terms of garment, pre-sales service, posts sales
service, delivery; pricing, etc are essentials for any garment exporter.
Necessity Of Quality Control On Garment
There are main three factors for our garment sector. They are as follows:
I) Price
II) Lead-time
III) Quality
From those we cannot control price and lead time. But we can control one
thing “Quality”. If we make high quality product then we may have a chance
to increase the price, and expend the lead-time from buyer. Quality is the
key to survive in this high competitive world market. That is why Quality is
important.
Quality Control
QC refers to the measures that must be included during each assay run to
verify that the test is working properly.
Quality Assurance
QA is defined as the overall program that ensures that the final results
reported by the laboratory are correct.
“The aim of quality control is simply to ensure that the results generated by
the test are correct. However, quality assurance is concerned with much
more: that the right test is carried out on the right specimen, and that the
right result and right interpretation is delivered to the right person at the
right time”
Total Quality Management (TQM)
An integrated effort designed to improve quality performance at every level
of the organization. Quality in each and every section of an organization both in
product and service is called Total Quality Management.
Page 7 of 48
Factory Detail
Name of the factory : Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd.
A Sister Concern of Viyellatex Group of Industries.
Location : Borobari, Gazipur.
Establishment : 1998
Basic products : Shirt & Blouse
Product Category : Men’s dress, casual shirt, ladies blouse, school wear
& Fashion wear.
Building Structure : Six (6) storied
Working areas : 250,000 sqf.
Production : 600,000 Pecs per month.
- Supposed by their washing, printing, and embroidery section.
- One stop service for all trims and accessories except cartooning.
Interfab Shirt manufacturing Ltd. is an export oriented oven shirts garments
factory. Now it has 30 production lines. It supplies to the world’s famous brand
retailers like Marks & Spencer, PVH, Tesco, TU, Adams, and H&M etc.
This factory has fully automated cutting section supported by Gerber with multi
work station Computer Aided Design (CAD), multi spreader and leaser guided cutter.
Around 1000 oil-free stitch programmable Japanese sewing machines with various
type fusing machines and auxiliary facilities are installed there for the purpose of full
non- iron shirt production. Conveyor system with 24 Vacuum Tables and 26
automatic Folding Tables are also installed there
Page 8 of 48
Present working Status
Management Staff : 58
Non-Management Staff : 280
Workers : 2412
Total Manpower : 2750
Yearly Turn over
2000-2001 : 3.2 million
2001-2002 : 4.05 million
2002-2003 : 5.75 million
2003-2004 : 7.00 million
2004-2005 : 8.93 million
2005-2006 : 9.11 million
2006-2007 : 14.00 million
2007-2008 : 17.5 million
2008-2009 : 20.7 million
2009-2010 (Projected) : 24.00 million
Page 9 of 48
Overview of Factory
- Designed as a State of art Readymade Garments factory.
- Ensure productive under ethical, legal and humane condition.
- High professional and experienced work force.
- Having very strong sourcing capabilities both local and external.
Values of the factory
- Their dreams inspire them.
- Their plans drive them.
- Their customers make them thrive.
- Their team is buyer.
- Their innovation energizes them.
- Their standards keep rising.
Strength of the factory
- They are compliance with GSP, ETI, BSCI & local law.
- On time delivery on quality garments.
- Low rate of migration.
- Happy working environment.
Technological Initiatives
- Their entire business is being arranged by world’s renowned ERP
solution SAP.
- They are using Fast React software for their production planning.
- They are using GSD for workout the SMV of all articles.
Page 10 of 48
Organogram of Quality Control of Factory
They have 30 sewing line every line have in-line quality inspector and end-line
inspector.
Major Fateh-UL-Islam, Psc(Retd.) Chief Operating Officer
Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd
QC Manager
Quality Controller
Quality Inspector
Store & Sample
Quality Controller
Quality Inspector
Pattern, Marker &
Cutting
Quality Controller
Quality Inspector
Sewing
In-Line Quality Inspector
End-Line Inspector
Quality Controller
Quality Inspector
Finishing
Page 11 of 48
Buyers of Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd
Byuer Name Logo
Marks & Spencer
S. Oliver
PVH
G-STAR
PUMA
E-SPRIT
ITO YOKADO
Page 12 of 48
Section wise quality control of Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd
To insure quality of the product, quality control personal check each and
every different section of the factory.
1. Store:
Every material comes in the store first. It makes store very important in
quality control. In store the factory quality people check inventory, fabric
quality, the correct fabric is imported or not, the color, other material,
trims and accessories. The inspection team can perform a visual inspection of
products as available at the beginning of the production cycle against a client's
instructions and Purchase Order specifications. The "Initial Production Check"
when combined with a "Final Random Inspection" and any other on-line
production checks, helps in taking corrective actions at an early stage of
production cycle. The inspection team will send out intermediary reports to
Page 13 of 48
the client and keep them informed about the production progress relative to
the delivery terms.
Product development and approval
We ask factories to develop each fabric, each garment and each item before
starting a bulk production run to make sure that the supplier masters all
aspects of the production for a specific item. All quality aspects have to be
approved: shrinkage, gsm, M/m defaults, measures, look, pH, colorfastness,
pilling,…
Approving all accessories ensures that the whole consignment will not be
delayed because of failure to supply one accessory -> sewing thread, labels,
buttons, zip, boxes, shipping notice, polybags, sealing tape,…
Yarn
Yarn is checked upon delivery. We
check the report about the quality of
the raw material delivered with the
yarn. This report tell us mainly the
staple length of the raw material
fibres, the micronaire (diameter of
fibres), shape of fibres,...the count of
the yarn, its contamination-free
performance, evenness of the yarn
(thick & thin places, neps…),
roughness, elongation performance.
Weaving
At the knitting and weaving stage, we can already obtain a fair idea about
finished fabric: gsm, fabric appearance, fabric composition, density (number of
ctheirse per cm or inch) even if we know that the dyeing process will have a
strong impact on all these parameters. Other tests consist of removing any
knitting defects.
Page 14 of 48
Dyeing
Fabric is washed, bleached, dyed, put
through a calendering machine and a bath
of softener or other kind of bath to give
specific characteristics to the fabric
(ignifuge, bacteria free, …) compacted and
dried. This process has a strong impact on
the shrinkage of the fabric, its softness,
resistance and its pH (important for the
skin). Before sending the fabric for
cutting, we check and approve the most
important aspects at this stage: constant
color matching based on their standard but also with previous productions.
For this we use light boxes and the SPM. Other crucial aspects to be checked
are pilling and colorfastness.
CMT
At that making stage we start the garment production as such. Here, after
24 htheirs of fabric relaxation (to reduce the risk of shrinkage, twist or
skewage), we cut, stitch, trim, iron, fold and pack the garments. Each of
these steps has an influence on various
quality aspects such as shrinkage, spots,
measurements, general aspect of the
garment. At the end of sewing lines,
each garment is individually checked. Main
quality aspects here are: measurements,
the design, cut and look of the whole
garment (we also check the patterns
used by the workers to cut the fabric
parts) Major/minor defaults (holes,
spots, threads,..), garment accessories
(button, zip, eyelet, stoppers, cords,
stud,…) have been checked upon delivery
and is now checked again once on the garment.
Page 15 of 48
Accessories
The difference can be located in terms of certain details. The look, the
design, the technical performance of the accessories that we use for their
garments are of utmost importance. The resistance of a zip, the practical
nature of a button and luminosity of high-visibility strips… this is what makes
their garments really theirs.
Sewing threads
Specification no: date:
Needle thread for o/lock, cover seams and L/S tabbing and finishing
Fiber
Structure
Designation
Shade
Other requirements
Color fastness
Bobbin thread for lockstitch
Same as the needle thread
Tapes Specification
Location
Width
Structure
Shade
Color fastness
Zips Specification no
Page 16 of 48
Location
Length
Tapes
Shade
Color fastness
Stability
Other requirement
They do the shade variation of the fabric in here. They have lots of space in
store. They have fixed a rack for a buyer. They never put the fabric of buyer
to other’s rack.
Materials are tested from the store before using. In here different materials
are gone through different tests. Like the tearing test of fabric, breaking
test of button etc.
Process specification – example fabric
References spec no
Fabric description
Product specification nos. relating
Specification no date
Machine gauge
dam feeders
Speed
Width roll length finished:
Page 17 of 48
Min. useable roll weight finished:
Doffing revs:
Doffing time
Technical manufacturing requirements
Stitch length ground
Composition fabric ground
(Off m/c) inlay
Width (off m/c)
Finishing requirements
Processes
Finished fabric parameters
C/3cm W/3cm wt/sq.m
Width overall
Process specification - example
Make-up order
References spec no
Make-up order for
Specification no
Product specification no. relating: -
Manufacturing requirement
Page 18 of 48
Operation Seam Spec. Ref. Extras/seam finish
Process specification - example
Seam specification
References spec no
Specification for
Specification ref. no: date
Make-up order nos.:
Sewing threads
Manufacturing requirements
Stitch
Bight s/5cm
Run-in
Needle
Tension
Fabric Examination Specification
For examination to be a success it is vital that the examiner has an
examination specification. This should include items along the lines of the
following:-
Length
Width
Weight
Page 19 of 48
Incorrect colors
Incorrect pattern
Bow and Skew
Number of parts
Fault rate
Dye listing or tilt
Stains and marks
They are fully equipped Testing Lab accredited by M&S and PUMA. They use
4 Point system for inspecting fabric.
Inspection of fabric
Fabric Defect
Askewed or Bias : condition where filling yarns are not square with warp yarns
on woven fabrics or where ctheirses are not square with wale lines on knits.
Back Fabric Seam Impression : backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric
being printed. If there is a joining seam in the backing fabric, an impression
will result on printed fabric.
Barre : occurs in circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine.
Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks.
Birdseye : caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually
two small distorted stitches, side by side. This term should not be confused
with birdseye fabric which is in fact created intentionally.
Bowing : Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lien in an arc across
fabric width: in knits the ctheirse lines lie in an arc across width of goods.
Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid color fabrics.
Page 20 of 48
Broken Color Pattern : Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame.
Color Out : the result of color running low in reservoir on printing machine.
Color Smear : The result of color being smeared during printing.
Crease Mark : differs from crease streak in that streak will probably appear
for an entire roll. Crease mark appears where creases are caused by fabric
folds in the finishing process. On napped fabric, final pressing may not be
able to restore fabric or original condition. Often discoloration is a problem.
Crease Streak : Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing
through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.
Drop Stitches : results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will appear as
holes or missing stitches.
Dye Streak In Printing : Results from a damaged doctor blade or a blade not
cleaned properly. Usually a long streak until the operator notices the
problem.
End Out : Occurs in Warp knit. Results from knitting machine continuing to
run with missing end.
Hole : caused by broken needle.
Jerk-in : caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into
the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage.
Knots : caused by tying spools of yarn together.
Missing Yarn : Occurs in warp knit. Reuslts from wrong fiber yarn (or
wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or
different color if fibers have different affinity for dye.
Mixed End (yarn) : Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame,
resulting in a streak in the fabric.
Page 21 of 48
Mottled : Color applied unevenly during printing.
Needle Line : Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Usually a
vertical line.
Open Reed : results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held
apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use
different colored yarns on warp and shuttle.
Pin Holes : Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes
through tenter frame.
Press-Off : results when all or some of the needles on circular knitting fail
to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely
disrupted or destroyed. Many knitting needles are broken and have to be
replaced when bad press-off occurs. Bad press-offs usually start a new roll of
fabric.
Printing Machine Stop : Dye or ink smudged along width of fabric as a result
of the printing machine stopping.
Print Out of Repair : Caused by print rollers not being synchronized
properly. This results in various colors of the design not being printed in the
proper position.
Puckered Selvage : Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or by
uneven wetting out in sanforization process.
Runner : caused by broken needle. The runner will appear as vertical
line. Most machines have a stopping device to stop the machine when a
needle breaks.
Sanforize Pucker : Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; usually
caused by defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when
Page 22 of 48
spread on cutting table. Difficult to detect while inspecting on inspection
machine with fabric under roller tension.
Scrimp : the result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through
tenter frames.
Slub (woven fabric) : usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven
into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is
caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.
Slub (Knit fabric) : Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, or by
ling getting onto yarn feeds.
Smash : caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired.
Soiled Filling or End : Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or
on packaged-dyed yarn.
Stop Mark : when the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension;
when the loom starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.
Straying End : Warp Knit. Caused when an end of yarn breaks and the
loose end strays and is knit irregularly into another area.
Thin Place: often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing
to run until the operator notices the problem.
Water Spots : Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long
before drying: color migrates leaving blotchy spots.
If anyone want to produce high quality garments, you need high quality piece
goods. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to
conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. Apparel Search recommends a
minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the
fabric. Many factories attempt to inspect the fabric during the spreading,
but this is probably unrealistic to depend on the spreader to control the
Page 23 of 48
fabric quality evaluation. The fabric should be inspected prior to the fabric
reaching the cutting tables.
Inspection system of fabric
The defect classification works as follows.
Size of Defect:
3 inches or less = 1 point penalty
Over 3 inches but not over 6 inches = 2 point penalty
Over 6 inches but not over 9 inches = 3 point penalty
Over 9 inches = 4 point penalty
Note: a maximum of 4 points should be charged to one linear yard. Also,
note that only "major" defects are charged.
The acceptable score varies. Many companies use 40 points per 100 yards as
acceptable defect rate. However, others may find this not acceptable.
Here is some math to show you an example.
Total Yardage received: 5400
Acceptance Point-count: 40 per 100 yards
Total Yards Inspected : 540
Total penalty points found in the sample inspection: 150 points
150 divided by 540 times 100 = 27.77 points per 100 yards (because the
allowance is 40 points per 100 yards, this shipment would be acceptable).
Page 24 of 48
Above are only a few examples of fabric testing procedures? In fact, above is
only a short summary of the processes. If you are responsible for inspecting
fabric, you really will need to do more research on this subject
Page 25 of 48
They are fully equipped Testing Lab accredited by M&S and PUMA
Marks & Spencer PUMA
10% of all materials comes to the store are inspected randomly. To issue
anything from store they use software named SEP.
2. Sample making:
Sample is the reflection of any factory to the buyer. It is the sample who
represents the factory in front of buyers. Unlike any other factory Interfab is
very much careful about their quality of sample. The points they consider to
check a sample are; whether the samples is as per buyer’s specification or
not, style description, sketch, measurement sheet etc.
They have a Product development section along with the sample section.
Page 26 of 48
They create different types of new design here and give presentation to
buyer.
3. Cutting section:
Pattern & Marker:
At first the patterns are made according to the size set sample approved by
the buyer. Then the sample is checked. The measurement curved spaces like;
arm hole, seam allowances, notch or cut mark, drill mark, gradation,
allowances, pattern part missing, mixed parts, direction of the pattern in
marker, overlapping, etc are carefully checked here. Then the marker goes to
marker. The people in marker section set pattern in different ways to get
the maximum efficiency. This factory has a CAD section. All the markers are
done here by CDA. So they get butter, efficient maker in lowest possible
time.
The efficiency of their shirts is 88 to 90% varies on styling.
Spreading:
During spreading they check; fabric relaxation, incorrect tension of plies, wrong
direction of piles, mismatching of checking of checks and stripes, narrow
fabric, shaded fabric. Over all they check if there are any faults on the fabric.
Here spreading is done in two ways:
Page 27 of 48
I) Auto spreader
II) Manual spreading
Auto spreader is more accurate, efficient and time consuming than manual.
Effective inspection requires random examination of cutting operations. The
inspector should not develop a set routine. You do not want the workers to
be in the habit of knowing when and how you will conduct their
inspection. You should make every effort to get a fair representation of the
cutting production by making random checks on the cutting room
floor. When checking spreaders, make certain to check for marker placement,
shading, table marks, etc. Here are a few issues to check.
Marker Placement: check that the marker is placed on the spread with the
edge parallel to the selvage of the piece goods. Verify that all cut pieces will
be complete.
Shading: unless all parts are ply marked, it is essential to have a system to
control shading.
Table marks: check the table marks as they table is marked. Allow no minus
tolerance for the splices.
Markers: ensure that no markers are creased, damaged, or have overlapped
parts.
Splices: after completion of the spread, check splice laps to see that both
piles extend past the marked splice by no less than 1/2 inch and no more
than 1 inch.
Narrow Goods: after completion of the spread, check the far edge of the
spread to see that all plies extend beyond the marker line.
Tension: check tension during spreading. This is very important on knit
fabrics.
Page 28 of 48
Count: check the count after completion of spreading, and before
cutting. Count all plies at both ends. There should be no tolerance.
Leaning: check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to
table top. Visually inspect the alignment of the edge with the table top.
Record the spreading defects by the quantity of defects found for each
checkpoint. Any defective work discovered by the inspector should be
immediately corrected. Do not only record the problem. Make sure to fix
the problem immediately.
One of the keys to producing good quality merchandise is an in-process quality
control program. Although it is possible to control their outgoing quality
with only a good final audit, it is NOT recommended to simply rely on that
approach. Unless you install an effective in-process quality control program,
their cost of excessive seconds and repairs may be high. It is far more
effective to correct the problem at the operator level, then after the
garment is completely assembled, pressed, packages and prepared for
shipping. Being able to deliver their merchandise on time is important to
their customers. Good in-process controls help assure that the final audit
runs smoothly and allows for timely delivery. You certainly do not want to
learn in their final audit about problems that could have easily been fixed if
detected earlier.
The primary purpose of the in-process auditing is to identify problems as
early as possible. A problem may be caused by the operator, the machine, or
other factors. The inline audits will help you find specific problems in
production. The only way to fix a problem is to find the problem. It is
important to find errors as quickly as possible so that they can be corrected
as fast as possible.
Cutting
Cutting could be done in two different ways:
Page 29 of 48
I) With marker.
II) Without marker.
When cutting is done manually, there has to be a marker. But cutting is
done by auto spreader and auto cutter, no marker is needed there. But to
insure the perfection of cutting a marker is put on the fabric.
Interfab can cut more than 30,000 Pecs of garment in a day.
Bundling, Numbering, Cut panel checking
After cutting the cut parts are bundled together. It is done to prevent
missing parts, shave variation etc. Every part of a lair is given a unic number.
Numbering is done to make a garment from a lay. Numbering is done by
sticker, pen and machine, depends on the fabric. On every bundle the cut
piece of marker is put on. 8 to 10% of the bundles are checked called cut
panel checking.
Fusing Section
As we know that, we can have maximum quality if the fusing section is under
the cutting section. In this industry fusing, printing, embroidery is controlled
by cutting.
4. Sewing Section:
There are some systems are practice in the sewing floor. Interfab takes
Traffic Light System.
Page 30 of 48
Seam Control checks
These checks should be made on a regular basis usually by the quality control
staff; to ensure that the seams being produced are meeting the technical
specification laid down. An example for a Seam control check card is given
below:
Fabric strength
Needle thread strength
Bight
Seam stitches per unit length
Page 31 of 48
Affect strength across seam
Fabric stiffness
Needle thread extensibility
Needle thread tension
Seam stitches per unit length
Affect seam grinning and gaping
Seam stitches per unit length
Needle thread extensibility
Fabric extensibility
Combined thickness of fabric plies
Cover thread thickness
Needle thread tension DIAGRAM
Presser foot pressure
Affect seam extensibility
Stitches per inch
There is a minimum below which a seam will not hold without gaping and
grinning, and the stitches will ride prominently on the fabric surfaces. There
is a maximum above which the seam jams with sewing thread, the base fabric
is damaged, and the seam puckers and is thick and rigid.
Page 32 of 48
Fault analysis card
There are some systems are practice in the sewing floor. Interfab takes
Traffic Light System.
General faults are, for example, those resulting from machine or operative
defects, which may be common to any garment in the workroom. They may
include such as:
1. Skip stitches
2. Unbalanced seams
3. Careless handling faults
4. Seam breakaway
5. Incorrect tensions
Job faults are those which are specific to a given garment e.g.
1. Bad pattern match
2. Wrong measurement
'Fault Analysis' is the name of a well tried technique in which all facets of
each fault are recorded under appropriate headings. Together with an example
FAULT
Split
Stitch
on
Linking
APPEARANCE
Half stitch or
part
Of stitch
CAUSE
Failure
to
place
whole
stitch
on
point
EFFECT
Weak
part in
seam
which
under
pressure
will
break
away
RESPONSIBILITY
Operative
ACTION
Remove
fabric
from
points
and run
on
PREVENTION
Check each
stitch is on a
constructive
point when
fabric is run
on
Page 33 of 48
or examples of each fault the analysis provides an invaluable teaching aid. The
headings are indicated below with an explanation of each
Sewing Checks
a. Stitches per cm. and thread run-in ratio checked to be within tolerance
of specification.
b. Evenness, balance and correct bight, no stitching missed
c. Extensibility and security correct (i.e. no cracking or laddering).
d. Absence of skip stitching.
e. Accountability of machinist.
In-Process Quality Check (IPQC)
The in-process quality check is designed to provide early warning of quality or
other problems arising during production and which may delay shipment.
In other words, it is intended to provide a snapshot of the status of
production at a factory. During production, semi-finished parts must be
inspected based on AQL or percentage according to the company policy and
inspection plan.
There are perfections charts in the sewing line and end line.
Checks carried out include stocks of raw materials, production rates,
estimated production completion date, production bottlenecks, etc.
Page 34 of 48
End line Quality Check
After sewing an end line inspector check 8 to 10% of the finished product.
At the end of the line there is a counting board. It counts the production of
every hour. It helps to fulfill the target production.
If the fabric is light colored or white they use a protective cap on collar top.
Any spot or dirt on these sensitive parts, it is very difficult to remove.
Control of quality in garment assembly
1. Components of an Effective System
The requirements of an effective system are:
i. Specification - i.e. that parts of the total specification which is
required by the making-up supervisor.
Page 35 of 48
ii. Monitoring of
a. the product to ensure conformity with the specification
b. The machinists to determine where non-compliance with the
specification arises.
i. Collection of data - from supervisor's sample checks. Analysis of data.
ii. Corrective action
a. short term- fault correction
b. long term - fault prevention
Garment check by Supervisor
The sample of garments checked by the Supervisor must be representative of
the total production.
Sample size is a function of the fault rate and the degree of confidence
required. Typically, at a confidence level of 95% and a fault rate of around
5% the sample size would be 54 dozen or 648 garments. In the case of a
complex garment this would almost certainly absorb a disproportionate
amount of the supervisor's time - bearing in mind her other duties.
The solution is firstly to concentrate the check on the less dependable and
skilled machinists, checking the others mainly at a major change, such as a
change of style.
Secondly, by checking those critical faults which are currently at an
unacceptable level or are showing an upward trend.
By this procedure a sample of meaningful size can be take in the critical
areas.
Page 36 of 48
i. Where it is not possible to take the optimum sample, bear in mind the
square-law, i.e. that a their garment, sample is 4x4=16 times better
than 1 garment, and eight garment sample is 8x8=64 times better
than a single garment and so on.
ii. The sample should be truly random i.e. of a number of garments, which
have passed through a given operation each one, should have an equal
chance of being selected. Checking a given machinist at precisely the
same times each day will not produce a meaningful sample.
1. Data Service for action by Supervisor
Data arising from final examination is invaluable to the sewing room
supervisor. Typically findings are recorded on a chart as shown below and the
rate for each fault calculated.
5. Finishing section:
Finishing section is the final section to make the product to sellable condition.
Page 37 of 48
They control the finishing section to achieve the maximum quality possible.
Wash garments are 100% checked here. Pressing, folding, tagging, packing are
main operations of finishing. Those operations are checked carefully.
Sequence of final inspection of garments:
To perform a reasonable inspection we have to maintain sequences of different
steps of the inspection are as follows:
1. Packing list verify/ compare with P.O. sheet:
Before starting inspection we have to check the final status of the lot with
p.o. sheet & packing list. Checkpoints are as follows:
a) Quantity
b) Color
c) Size
d) Packing
2. Inspection preparation:
To get the accrete result we must have well preparation for final inspection
are as follows:
a) required facilities are:
1 Sufficient space
a. Shade correct and not varying from one part of garment to another.
b. Cut is correct - e.g. neck, collar and sleeves balanced, pockets correct.
c. Measurements within tolerance of specification, weight correct.
d. Appearance correct, patterns matching.
Page 38 of 48
e. Seams finished correctly, absence of miss stitching, cracking and
laddering.
f. Accessories correctly applied and working.
g. Absence of fabric faults and stains.
h. Correct labeling.
i. Accountability of making-up (volume of work unsatisfactory; break-down
under various fault categories.)
Recovery Inspection
a. Check whether remedial works satisfactory.
b. Check on volume of work successfully recovered.
c. Avoidance of work recycling.
Yarn Checks
1. Count Tests on Staple Fiber Yarns: Check on count variability, within
cones and between deliveries: to be within tolerance of specification. If
coarse, yarn utilization impaired. Check on running average.
2. Bulking Tests on Continuous Filament Textured Yarns: Check on
consistency, and on filamentation
3. Condition Checks:
Check on incorrect condition
4. Yarn wrapping:
Levelness of yarn (also User levelness).
Further Yarn Checks (2nd order priority)
Page 39 of 48
1. Fiber analysis:
As specified for correct labeling
2. Fiber quality:
As required
3. Yarn twist:
On new deliveries and on demand for fault diagnosis. To be within specified
tolerance
4. Co-efficient of friction:
Test and compare to specification
5. Oil content:
When records of finishing loss, yarn utilization, count, grey weights, or
finished weights abnormal, oil content checked; and also if yarn running
abnormally. Content figure to be within tolerance of specification.
6. Accessories Checks:
Shade and size checked to be correct (e.g. buttons)
Stability (e.g. linings and trims and zip tapes) within tolerance of
specification. Extensibility and modulus (e.g. binding and elastic) within
tolerance of specification. Items work properly (e.g. zips)
Sewing threads, correct shade, ticket number and sews normally
7. Boxed Stock Audits
Goods in warehouse - sample checked for quality and faults.
Goods rejected - check to see if correctly rejected.
Page 40 of 48
8. Machine Efficiency
Ratio of knitting time or goods produced compared with basis if no down-
time. Provides measure of machine performance - analyzed against knitter,
machinist, fabric quality, garment style and yarn. -
9. Yarn Utilization
10. Fabric Utilization
As with machine efficiency, checks on process performance.
Analyzed against operation section, style, fabric or yarn.
During Production Check (DUPRO)
The DUPRO provides the on-line inspection, DQC qualified inspectors will check
that the corrections and improvements suggested during the IPC were
implemented, examine the existing productions, advised the manufacturers of
any further corrections or improvements to be made. The DUPRO should be
carried out when 30-50% of the merchandise has been produced (minimum
50 pieces) in this services, inspector will on-line check the production
materials, process, semi-finished and finished products. During Production
Inspection (DUPRO) is used for to guarantee uniformity of the actual
production and specification.
Audit:
Audit can be performed in the sewing floor as well as in the finishing section
or whatever required.
Mini QC:
Every day the products made by Interfab are checked. Each and every shirt is
inspected here.
Pre-final Inspection:
Page 41 of 48
In Interfab before final inspection they perform three per-final inspections.
They are as follows:
I) After 25% garment produced are made and pecked.
II) After 50% garment produced are made and pecked.
III) After 75% garment produced are made and pecked.
Factory Audit
The Factory assessment is performed by our Auditor following a general
framework designed after SA 8000 standard and completed, when requested,
with the client's specific requirements. The audit takes at least one full day
and begins with a request for documentation. The factory management is
assembled. One of the documents reviewed is the Quality Certification. The
grantor of the certificate is scrutinized as are the periodic reviews. The
factory is required to submit documents for a part similar to the part being
considered for production. Documents requested include:
- Process Flow Chart
- Control Plan
- Dimensional Layout
- Capability Study
- Production Failure Effects Mode Analysis
The auditor inspects the factory beginning with raw material storage and
inspection. Tooling workshops are inspected. The auditor then "walks" the
Control Plan through every manufacturing process. The last steps of the
factory inspection are final test, packaging, and laboratory areas. By the
end of the auditing day, the auditor knows if the quality systems claimed
by the factory are in practice and if the management is committed to
constant improvement.
Page 42 of 48
Quality control records
The above data, immediately on being generated, is automatically entered
on records as continuity charts, either in tabular, graphical or
computerized form. This action takes very little time, and enables the
current data to be compared with previous data and with other related Q.
C. data. The visual impact of the presentation is immediate and creates
rapid feed-back of vital information to production and other interested
management personnel.
The essential features of the standard are contained in the following basic
requirements:-
1. Quality System
2. Organization
3. Review of Quality System
4. Documentation/Records
5. Equipment
6. Purchased Materials and Services
7. Manufacturing Control
8. Work Instructions/Workmanship
9. Corrective Action
10. Completed Item and Inspection and Test
11. Sampling Procedures
12. Control on Non-conforming Material
13. Alternative Inspection Procedures and Equipment
Page 43 of 48
14. Indication of Inspection Status
15. Protection and Preservation of Product Handling, Storage and Delivery
16. Training.
Pre shipment Inspection (PSI) or Final inspection:
To select sample Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd follows some certain rule.
The rules are given as below:
Lot or batch size
Special Inspection Levels General Inspection Levels
S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4 I II III
2 ~ 8
9 ~ 15
16 ~ 25
26 ~ 50
51 ~ 90
91 ~ 150
151 ~ 280
281 ~ 500
501 ~ 1200
1201 ~ 3200
3201 ~ 10000
10001 ~ 35000
35001 ~ 150000
150001 ~ 500000
500001 and over
A
A
A
A
B
B
B
B
C
C
C
C
D
D
D
A
A
A
B
B
B
C
C
C
D
D
D
E
E
E
A
A
B
B
C
C
D
D
E
E
F
F
G
G
H
A
A
B
C
C
D
E
E
F
G
G
H
J
J
K
A
A
B
C
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
P
Q
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
P
Q
R
TABLE II SINGLE SAMPLING PLANS FOR NORMAL INSPECTION:
Page 44 of 48
Sample size code
letter Sample size
Acceptable Quality Levels(normal inspection)
0.25 0.40 0.65 1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0 6.5 10
Ac Re Ac
Re Ac Re
Ac
Re
Ac
Re
Ac
Re
Ac
Re
Ac
Re
Ac
Re
A
B
C
2
3
5
0 1
0 1
0 1
1 2
D
E
F
8
13
20
0 1
0 1
0 1
1 2
1 2
2 3
1 2
2 3
3 4
2 3
3 4
5 6
G
H
J
32
50
80
0 1
0 1
1 2
1 2
2 3
1 2
2 3
3 4
2 3
3 4
5 6
3 4
5 6
7 8
5 6
7 8
10 11
7 8
10 11
14 15
K
L
M
125
200
315
1 2
2 3
1 2
2 3
3 4
2 3
3 4
5 6
3 4
5 6
7 8
5 6
7 8
10
11
7 8
10 11
14 15
10 11
14 15
21
22
14 15
21
22
21
22
N
P
500
800
3 4
5 6
5 6
7 8
7 8
10 11
10
11
14
14
15
21
21
22
Page 45 of 48
Q 1250 7 8 10 11 14 15 15
21
22
22
R 2000 10 11 14 15 21
22
Usually the AQL of this factory is 2.5.
The Interfab team performs a final random inspection comprising of a detailed
visual inspection of goods before shipment. It is generally conducted on the
premises of the manufacturer, on samples selected according to defined
sampling procedures.
The inspection criteria covering quality, quantity, marking and packing are
based on the client's specifications and reference samples, as provided. Upon
completion of the final random inspection a detailed inspection report is sent
to the client and the inspection certificate issued to the supplier if all
findings are positive.
The top management of Interfab performs the final inspection. They have so good
relation to its entire buyer that the buyer don not need to send their
representatives or third party inspection team. Interfab does not take any charge
for the final inspection.
Some of the various inspection options available to you are listed below.
Buyer can choose which options you would like to have completed or not.
1. Quantity
2. Master Carton Markings
3. Master Carton Weight & Dimension
4. Master Carton Content Verification
5. Product Packaging Comparison
6. Packaged Product Weight
7. Packaging Dimension
8. Product Packaging/ Remailer Description
9. Sample/ Product Comparison
Page 46 of 48
10. Workmanship
11. Product Functional Verification
12. Master Carton Transportation Drop Test
13. Packaged Product Transportation Drop Test
14. Instruction Sheet/ Booklet
Quality Assurance
Interfab Inspection provides product shipment inspection services for buyers
purchasing item. Their qualified inspection personnel will take any available
samples and/or product related requirements, and inspect shipments
thoroughly before they depart Bangladesh.
They offer product testing and quality verification and report their findings
so that buyer can make the decision to have the shipment sent or returned
to the manufacturer.
They know how stressful it can be to worry whether the items buyer
purchased will be of the quality and design you want them to be. Their
inspection personnel have years of experience and can give buyer a quality
inspection of the products buyer have purchased before they leave Bangladesh.
In the factory they have every floor palned. It is a sign of TQM.
Page 47 of 48
Interfab has world class machines, skilled work force, all over that they are
intended to achieve the maximum possible quality. That makes them one of
the leading Garment manufacturing factories in our country.
After all of that it is clear that Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Limited is a
Page 48 of 48
Model Total Quality Management factory. It is a kind of factory that is
working forward to enhance business among the developing nations and making
us proud of it. If three shirts are sold in UK one of them is made by
Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Limited.
At last we want to thank our Honorable teacher, Kazi Shamsur Rahman for
giving us a chance to see such a nice factory like it.
THE END…