Assessment of expressive attributes of functional apparel product developed for cosmetologists in Lagos, Nigeria

Assessment of expressive attributes of functional apparelproduct developed for cosmetologists in Lagos, NigeriaDorothy Thompson1 and Elizabeth Anyakoha2

1Department of Home Economics, University of Uyo, Uyo, Nigeria2Department of Vocational Teacher Education, University of Nigeria, Nsukka, Nigeria

Keywords

Expressive attributes, functional apparel,cosmetologists, career apparel.

Correspondence

Dorothy Thompson, Department of HomeEconomics, University of Uyo, Uyo, Nigeria.E-mail: [email protected]

doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2012.01113.x

AbstractThe purpose of this study was to assess the expressive attributes of functional appareldeveloped for cosmetologists in order to ascertain the acceptability of the product by indifferent size categories. The study was carried out in Lagos, Nigeria. The populationcomprised 3820 cosmetologists and 151 judges. Purposive sampling technique wasemployed to select 24 cosmetologists and 22 judges. The instrument used was a 17-itemFunctional Apparel Design Assessment Instrument for Cosmetologists/Functional ApparelDesign Assessment Instrument for Judges. The internal consistency of the instruments wasestablished. Three research questions and two hypotheses guided the study. Findingsindicated mean values for both cosmetologists and judges > 4.00 (X = 4 33. ; standard devia-tion = 0.761). Also, no significant differences (P > 0.05) occurred between the judges’ andcosmetologists’ mean ratings in the expressive variable cluster (t = -1.787; t-crit. = 0.081).The implementation of the findings of this study will afford cosmetologists the opportunityto have an identity that is suggestive of their role in the society.

IntroductionCosmetology is the treatment of hair, skin and nails, using cos-metic applications to beautify and improve appearance. It involvesthe use of equipment and tools, which may pose work-relatedhazards if not handled and stored properly. Cosmetology affordsenormous employment opportunities for men and women bothglobally and in Nigeria. In the US alone, according to the UnitedStates Department of Labor, Bureau of Labour Statistics – Cos-metology (2008; http://www.dol.gov/dol/topic/statistics/index.htm), over 825 000 people were registered as workers in the cos-metology industry either as barbers, skin care specialists or nailtechnicians. In Nigeria, the National Directorate of Employmentin collaboration with the Ministry of Labour and Productivity,reported an estimated 24 020 registered cosmetologists. Out ofthis number, 3820 cosmetologists are registered in Lagos Statealone. Cosmetology has remained a huge fashion-oriented andbeauty care enterprise over the past decades as it plays a key rolein people’s lives and well-being. The establishment of a school ofcosmetology in Nigeria as far back as 1959, has resulted in theemergence of many individuals practising the trade. They operatein a free market situation where laws and regulations guiding theindustry operation are not properly spelt out. As a result, thisindustrial subsector is flooded with all kinds of workers who arenon-professionals and become exposed to various environmentalhazards that may impede job performance and present a poorcorporate image. It is therefore necessary for workers in this indus-

trial subsector to be distinguished through corporate identityspecifically through the use of a common type of apparel thatis uniform in appearance and that would also be functional(Osinsanya, 2005).

Within the cosmetology work environment, the activities, facili-ties, equipment, tools, chemicals and other materials used neces-sitate the wearing of clothing that should be compliant with theusers’ needs. This is because clothing can enhance or hinderbody functions among different groups of people and in differentoccupations. In the cosmetology occupation, the concern for func-tionality is equally matched by a concern for uniformity in appear-ance. The concept of uniformity in relation to functionality meansthat those in the practice should be identifiable, visible and ifpossible, through appearance, express occupational roles fromothers within the same cultural context. Damhorst et al. (2005)believe that uniformity of appearance not only allows outsiders toidentify individuals as members of an occupational subsector, butalso to display the image of that occupational area it representsthrough their dress. These issues pose major challenges in selec-tion and usage of functional apparel, which is apparel designed tomeet special needs of persons in diverse situations.

Functional apparel is a component of dress that constitutes anintimate environment as a visible and non-verbal means of com-munication. Expression of identity through dress has become amajor global concern for many socio-cultural contexts and organi-zations. Issues of identity related to gender and professionbecomes apparent when considering expressive needs of apparel

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International Journal of Consumer Studies ISSN 1470-6423

International Journal of Consumer Studies 36 (2012) 492–497© 2012 Blackwell Publishing Ltd

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consumers. Expressive needs according to Lamb and Kallal(1992) convey particular messages about the wearer in terms ofidentity, roles, status and self-esteem, which enhance the commu-nicative and symbolic aspects of clothing. Dress also provides roleinformation about the wearer, to communicate social standardsand expectations for that role as well as announcing the socialpositions of the wearer (Eicher et al., 2008). Both individual andgroup identity could be established through elements of dress(Chae, 2006). Expressive attributes control the non-verbal mes-sages sent by the product. Chae (2006) has reported several studieson the expressive components of dress. These studies generallyborder on identity, role, behaviour of the individual, feelings, theself-concept and interest in clothing. Expressive needs are there-fore necessary for potential consumers of functional apparel toadequately utilize both the aesthetic and functional componentsof the product for optimum satisfaction during use. This studyassessed the functional apparel product developed for the cosme-tologists workforce in terms of a researcher-developed expressiveattributes rating scale. These attributes are identity-based vari-ables, which, according to literature, must be congruent with theconsumers’ self-image in order to promote acceptability and ulti-mate usage of the product.

Research objectives and hypothesis

The purpose of this study was to assess specially constructedfunctional apparel in terms of expressive attributes. Specifically,the study determined the mean ratings of functional apparel users(cosmetologists) of the uniforms as well as the mean ratings ofjudges in terms of the expressive attributes of the functionalapparel. Ratings were then compared in order to identify short-comings from both perspectives.

The researcher postulated that there would be no significantdifference between the mean ratings of cosmetologists and judgeson the expressive attributes of the functional apparel.

MethodsThe study was explorative and descriptive, and employed a surveydesign. It was conducted in Lagos State.

Population

Two populations were targeted, namely 3820 cosmetologists and151 judges consisting of Home Economics lecturers from tertiaryinstitutions in Lagos State, cosmetology instructors from differentcosmetology institutions of training, registered apparel producersfound in the Nigerian Business Directory Index (2008) andpostgraduate/Higher National Diploma (HND) students of HomeEconomics/fashion design.

Sample and sampling technique

The study adopted a non-probability sampling technique, specifi-cally purposeful sampling to select 24 cosmetologists from thecosmetologists’ population based on their ability to satisfy certainimportant criteria necessary to provide the relevant informationneeded for the study. These criteria were professional qualifica-tion, age and weight, years of experience, size (based on stand-

ardized commercial sizing system) obtained from a range ofanthropometric measurements outlined by Ashdown (2001) andDecker (2007). The sizes were: small (8–10); medium (12–14);and large (16–18). Another characteristic of the subjects requiredfor the study was height: an average height between 160 and170 cm was accepted as the required height range because it wasobserved that the largest percentage of the female population fellwithin this height category.

The sample of judges adopted the purposive sampling strategyto select four cosmetology instructors from a population of 23; twoHome Economics/Fashion Design lecturers from a population of11; two postgraduate/HND Home Economics/Fashion Design stu-dents from a population of nine, and 14 apparel producers from apopulation of 108 apparel producers, i.e. a total of 22 persons whorepresented the judges’ sample. The instructors and apparel pro-ducers had at least 5 years of working experience in their variousfields of endeavour. The postgraduate students selected were thosemajoring in Clothing and Fashion Design and had taken courses inapparel design and production.

Instrument for data collection

The instrument for data collection was a 5-point semantic differ-ential scale for use by cosmetologists and judges to assess theexpressive quality of the functional apparel. It contained two sec-tions i.e. demographic variables including the size, height, weightand educational qualification of the model; as well as an expres-sive attributes rating scale for cosmetologists. The instrument fordata collection for judges specified the occupation of judges, aswell as the expressive attributes rating scale for judges. The vari-ables measured were: ‘adds value to profession/adds no valueto profession’; ‘enhances self-esteem/does not enhance self-esteem’; ‘suggestive of role/not suggestive of role’; ‘projects self-image/does not project self-image’; ‘establishes identity/does notestablish identity’; ‘promotes sense of belonging/no sense ofbelonging’; ‘promotes sense of social security/promotes sense ofsocial insecurity’; ‘promotes image of profession/does not pro-motes image of profession’; ‘gives impression of competence/does not give impression of competence’; ‘gives impression ofcreativity/does not gives impression of creativity’; ‘likely toinspire client confidence/not likely to inspire client confidence’;‘promotes self-confidence/no self-confidence’; ‘appreciate brandname/does not appreciate brand name’. This researcher-composed instrument was subjected to face validation and thereliability was established by calculating the Cronbach’s alphacoefficient for the expressive variable cluster.

Pilot test

Prior to the study, the evaluative instruments developed by theresearchers were pilot-tested using six cosmetologists and eightjudges in Uyo, Nigeria. Two cosmetologists each represented thesmall-, medium- and large-size categories specified in the study.Participants were of an average height ranging between 160 and170 cm and weighing between 50 and 60 kg. The eight judgescomprised two Home Economics lecturers, two cosmetologyinstructors, two apparel producers and two postgraduate stu-dents. The questionnaire responses were used to determine reli-ability, appropriateness and construct validity. There were no

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modifications made; the computation of the responses obtainedwas thereafter excluded from the main study.

Developmental procedures

The procedures for the development of the functional apparelproduct were organized into three phases. Procedures for the firstphase involved a needs assessment of cosmetologists – determi-nation of mean body measurement and wearer preference needsassessment; determination of design criteria based on specifica-tions; generation of creative ideas for prototype apparel; and selec-tion of final design idea. For the second phase, proceduresincluded development of patterns for the final design based onmean body measurements of subjects, construction of the proto-type apparel in sizes small, medium and large, preliminary testing(pilot testing) of prototype product modifications and alterationsfor fit and construction of new sets of functional apparel. Proce-dures for the third phase of the study involved evaluation of thefunctional, general utilitarian, expressive and aesthetic attributesof functional apparel both by user models and four groups ofjudges using the Functional Apparel Design Assessment Instru-ment for Cosmetologists (FADAC) and Functional ApparelDesign Assessment Instrument for Judges (FADAJ) instruments.The research assistants, cosmetologists and panel of judges weretrained prior to the collection of data for the study to explainguidelines on the assessment of the expressive attributes of theapparel product on the semantic differential rating scale so as toavoid any misconceptions in decision by study participants.

Construction of functional apparel

New sets of functional apparel comprising shirt, pants and anapron were constructed for 24 models based on the modificationsobtained from the pilot test. The construction of the functionalapparel was done by the researcher following established sewingtechniques by Glock and Kunz (2000).

Wear test of the functional apparel product

Each of the 24 models collected a set of the functional apparel andwore the functional apparel product in readiness for the ratings bythemselves and by the judges. They were given standard wear teststeps and guidelines in a related study that attempted to assess thefit of apparel.

Assessment/scoring of the functional apparelproduct by user models and panel of judges

User models

Each of the 24 models was given the FADAC instrument to gothrough before completing it for clarity of expressions and instruc-tions to the respondents. Subjects were thereafter allowed time ontheir own to rate the functional apparel product on the variablesoutlined in the expressive needs cluster in a laboratory setting. Theresponses were noted. The subjects were again given the apparel towear and perform tasks in a field setting and to rate the parametersoutlined for assessment. All copies of the FADAC instrumentswere returned to the researcher after the two rating sessions, which

resulted in 100% return. The responses from the cosmetologistswere collected and the average score for the two rating sessionswas used for data analysis. The rationale behind the two ratingsessions was to ascertain the acceptability of the functional apparelby cosmetologists in a normal setting and when performing pro-fessional tasks in a field setting.

Panel of judges

The rating of the functional apparel on each of the models wasdone by a panel of 22 judges. A set of 24 copies of the FADAJinstrument was given to each of the judges for scoring the expres-sive qualities of the apparel on the models representing small-,medium- and large-size category. All copies of questionnaire werereturned at the end of the rating session representing a 100%return. The responses from the judges for each cosmetologist werecollated and the average score was used for the analysis. Themodelling was conducted in a single session.

Results

Data presentation and analysis

The mean ratings of the cosmetologists and judges were computedon the expressive attributes of the functional apparel, which actu-ally controls the non-verbal messages sent out by the apparelproduct (Fig. 1). Data from the study are presented in Tables 1–4.

Design analysis

The functional apparel ensemble (set) comprised a three-piecemodular set made up of a long-/short-sleeve shirt; a pair of ankle/below knee length pants and a sleeveless water-repellent apron.

Tables 1 indicates the 13 bipolar non-verbal messages that wererated on a 5-point semantic differential scale where ‘5’ representeda very positive attribute assessment and ‘1’ represented a verynegative attribute assessment. All 13 items on the scale were ratedpositively by cosmetologists with the mean positive scores rangingfrom 4.08 to 4.42 with low standard deviation values All meanscores were higher than 4.0, indicating that cosmetologists foundall of the non-verbal messages important and applicable to thefunctional apparel product developed for use in their occupation.

Table 2 shows that all the variables for judging the expressivequalities of the functional apparel were rated highly positive withmean scores ranging from 4.05 on the item ‘suggestive of role/notsuggestive of role’ to 4.64 on the item ‘appreciate brand name/donot appreciate brand name’. This indicates that the functionalapparel design is suggestive of their role in the society. Also, thebrand name ‘Basic Editions’ indicate that the product is a proto-type product and could still accept some improvements beforeactual commencement of usage in real work setting.

Table 3 shows that cosmetologists and judges positively ratedthe prototype apparel on all the items on the expressive attributesscale. This rating indicates that among other non-verbal messagesportrayed by the prototype apparel, the enhancement of self-esteem; projection of sense of self-image; promotion of socialsecurity; promotion of image of profession; and the likelihood ofapparel to inspire clients’ confidence received very high ratings.This is also an indication that the prototype apparel was highly

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appreciated by the two groups of assessors. This is probablybecause the cosmetology workforce now has a new design offunctional apparel that is perceived to project a better sense ofself-worth and the image of the profession, and is also suggestiveof the cosmetologists’ role in the society.

This test sought to compare the mean ratings of the two groupsof respondents (cosmetologists and judges) on the expressive com-ponents of the functional apparel. T-tests were run to compare thetotal expressive ratings for functional apparel by cosmetologistsand judges. Out of the 13 items on the expressive rating scale,there were no significant differences found in 11 items while therewere significant differences indicated for two variables. Thisimplies that the t-calculated value was < t-tabulated in 11 vari-ables, while t-calculated > t-tabulated in two variables. The nullhypothesis was therefore accepted for 11 variables and rejected fortwo variables specifically (Table 4) ‘add value to profession/addsno value to profession’ and ‘appreciate brand name’. This meansthat both groups of evaluators differed in their responses about thevalue addition of the prototype apparel product to the cosmetologyprofession and there were significant differences also concerningappreciation of the brand name ‘Basic Editions’.

Table 1 Mean ratings of cosmetologists on expressive attributes offunctional apparel

Expressive attributes X SD

Adds value to profession/adds no value to profession 4.17 0.702Enhances self-esteem/does not enhance self-esteem 4.08 0.654Suggestive of role/not suggestive of role 4.17 0.702Projects self-image/does not project self-image 4.25 0.847Establishes identity/does not establish identity 4.17 0.816Promotes sense of belonging/does not promote sense

of belonging4.08 0.654

Promotes sense of social security/does not promotesense of social security

4.42 0.504

Promotes image of profession/does not promote imageof profession

4.33 0.761

Gives impression of competence/does not giveimpression of competence

4.17 0.702

Gives impression of creativity/does not give impressionof creativity

4.17 0.702

Likely to inspire client confidence/not likely to inspireclient confidence

4.17 0.702

Promotes self-confidence/no self-confidence 4.33 0.761Appreciate brand name/do not appreciate brand name 4.17 0.816

SD, standard deviation.

Table 2 Mean ratings of judges on expressive attributes of functionalapparel

S/n Expressive attributes X SD

Adds value to profession/adds novalue to profession

4.59 0.666

Enhances self-esteem/does notenhance self-esteem

4.41 0.666

Suggestive of role/not suggestive ofrole

4.05 0.653

Projects self-image/does not projectself-image

4.50 0.740

Establishes identity/does not establishidentity

4.27 0.631

Promotes sense of belonging/does notpromote sense of belonging

4.27 0.631

Promotes sense of social security/does not promote sense of socialsecurity

4.14 0.560

Promotes image of profession/doesnot promote image of profession

4.14 0.640

Gives impression of competence/doesnot give impression of competence

4.14 0.560

Gives impression of creativity/does notgive impression of creativity

4.45 0.671

Likely to inspire client confidence/notlikely to inspire client confidence

4.36 0.727

Promotes self-confidence/noself-confidence

4.59 0.734

Appreciate brand name/do notappreciate brand name

4.64 0.658

SD, standard deviation.Expressive statements of functional apparel are rated on a5-point semantic differential scale where ‘5’ = very positive and ‘1’ =very negative.

Figure 1 A three-piece functional apparel – shirt, pants and apron.



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DiscussionThe mean ratings of the cosmetologists and judges were computedon the expressive criteria of the functional apparel, which actuallycontrols the non-verbal messages sent out by the apparel product.Results revealed grand mean ratings of values >4.00 on all itemson the scale by both groups of evaluators (Tables 1, 2 and 3).Variables measured included values, role, self-image, identity,self-esteem, sense of belonging, image of profession, competence,creativity, self-confidence and social security. This researcher-composed and -validated scale measured some of the variables

outlined by Lamb and Kallal (1992) and Sindicich (2008) tomeasure organizations’ functional uniforms which they claim mustbe congruent with the consumers’ self-image and the projection ofrole in the workplace in order to be used. As indicated in Table 3,the standard deviation values indicated low variability in thepattern of responses of the two groups of assessors. T-test resultsshowed no statistically significant difference in the mean ratings ofjudges and cosmetologists in 11 items on this scale. Significantdifferences were revealed for two items (Table 4).

However cosmetologists’ ratings indicated that there wasa positive relationship between expressive needs and overall

Table 3 Mean ratings of cosmetologists and judges on expressive attributes of functional apparel

S/N Expressive attributes X1 SD1 X 2 SD2 Remarks

Adds value to profession/adds no value to profession 4.17 .702 4.59 0.666 PositiveEnhances self-esteem/does not enhance self-esteem 4.08 .654 4.41 0.666 PositiveSuggestive of role/not suggestive of role 4.17 0.702 4.05 0.653 PositiveProjects self-image/does not project self-image 4.25 0.847 4.50 .740 PositiveEstablishes identity/does not establish identity 4.17 0.816 4.27 0.631 PositivePromotes sense of belonging/does not promote sense of belonging 4.08 0.654 4.27 0.631 PositivePromotes sense of social security/does not promote sense of social security 4.42 0.504 4.14 0.560 PositivePromotes image of profession/does not promote image of profession 4.33 0.761 4.14 0.640 PositiveGives impression of competence/does not give impression of competence 4.17 0.702 4.14 0.560 PositiveGives impression of creativity/does not give impression of creativity 4.17 0.702 4.45 0.671 PositiveLikely to inspire client confidence/not likely to inspire client confidence 4.17 0.702 4.36 0.727 PositivePromotes self-confidence/no self-confidence 4.33 0.761 4.59 0.734 PositiveAppreciate brand name/do not appreciate brand name 4.17 0.816 4.64 0.658 Positive

SD, standard deviation.X1 = mean ratings of cosmetologist.X 2 = mean ratings of judges.

Table 4 Result of t-test analysis verifying the differences between cosmetologists’ and judges’ mean ratings on expressive attributes of functionalapparel

Expressive variables n1 n2 X1 SD1 X 2 SD2 t-cal df

Significance(2-tailed)0.05 Decision

Adds value to profession/adds no value to profession 24 22 4.17 0.702 4.59 0.666 2.098 44 0.042 REnhances self-esteem/does not enhance self-esteem 24 22 4.08 0.654 4.41 0.666 1.673 44 0.101 ASuggestive of role/not suggestive of role 24 22 4.17 0.702 4.05 0.653 -0.605 44 0.548 AProjects self-image/does not project self-image 24 22 4.25 0.847 4.50 0.740 1.062 44 0.294 AEstablishes identity/does not establish identity 24 22 4.17 0.816 4.27 0.631 0.490 44 0.627 APromotes sense of belonging/does not promote sense of

belonging24 22 4.08 0.654 4.27 0.631 0.998 44 0.324 A

Promotes sense of social security/does not promote sense ofsocial security

24 22 4.42 0.504 4.14 0.560 -1.787 44 0.081 A

Promotes image of profession/does not promote image ofprofession

24 22 4.33 0.761 4.14 0.640 -0.945 44 0.350 A

Gives impression of competence/does not give impression ofcompetence

24 22 4.17 0.702 4.14 0.560 -0.161 44 0.873 A

Gives impression of creativity/does not give impression ofcreativity

24 22 4.17 0.702 4.45 0.671 1.419 44 0.163 A

Likely to inspire client confidence/not likely to inspire clientconfidence

24 22 4.17 0.702 4.36 0.727 0.935 44 0.355 A

Promotes self-confidence/no self-confidence 24 22 4.33 0.761 4.59 0.734 1.166 44 0.250 AAppreciate brand name/do not appreciate brand name 24 22 4.17 0.816 4.64 0.658 2.136 44 0.038 R

n1 = total number of cosmetologists; n2 = total number of judges. x1 = mean ratings of cosmetologists, x2 = mean ratings of judges, SD1 = standarddeviation for cosmetologists, SD2 = standard deviation for judges.

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acceptability of the functional apparel product developed for usagein that profession. The importance of expressive needs in theoverall acceptability of apparel products to consumers was alsosupported by judges. Previous studies have indicated some rel-evance of expressive needs to consumers’ acceptance of apparelfor the projection of identity (Dickson and Pollack, 2000; Wheatand Dickson, 2000; Chae, 2002, 2006). Based on this concept,potential cosmetologists would be interested in the choice ofappropriate apparel to identify themselves as cosmetologists andto acquire a positive self-concept from such apparel.

ConclusionsResults of the study indicated that in terms of the acceptability ofa functional apparel product for cosmetologists, identity-basedexpressive variables of the products should satisfy the consumers.The implementation of the findings of this study will afford cos-metologists the opportunity to perfect an identity that is sugges-tive of their role in society. However, there could be colour ortextile differentiation to suit both personal and corporate colourcodes and ethnic preferences, which will promote localization ina single line of product for cosmetologists. Manufacturers ofbeauty supplies can for example utilize the findings of this studyin providing cosmetology-functional apparel products withintheir respective retail outlets. Companies/businesses can ordertheir uniform for their employees through the manufacturers. Thefindings of this study further have implications for curriculumand programme developers who can articulate these findings forthe infusion of creativity education and problem-solvingapproaches i.e. to address design problems among individuals inother contexts. This study suggests that judgements about thenon-verbal communicative properties of apparel should not beresident with potential consumers alone but also with beholdersto ensure mutual satisfaction. This study has implications for

other occupational subsectors regarding the development of func-tional apparel for usage in dissimilar occupations.

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Assessment of expressive attributes of functional apparel product developed for cosmetologists in Lagos, Nigeria