340

Ascent of Everest

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OF
EDINBURGH,
K.G.
IN
point
when
their
respective
companions
on
the
rope
found
themselves
unable
to
go
on.
The
opportunity
first
to
reach
the
top
of
camel's
back.
Considering
that
Everest
is
over
29,000
feet
and
that
some
8,000
feet
have
situated.
Monsoon
conditions
normally
continue
to
prevail
in
this
region
until
to-
lay
beyond,
between
the
two
summits.
It
of
our
planning
was
ultimately
directed.
Here
then,
in
up
a
High-Altitude
Committee,
as
it
had
before
earlier
expeditions,
to
advise
on
equipment
and
diet;
a
physiologist
It
was
in
many
ways
the
hardest
part
of
the
whole
affair,
tion
beyond
the
Commonwealth
and
this
viewpoint
was
accepted
by
the
Committee.
On
an
expedition
of
this
exceptional
nature,
the
stresses
and
a
film
was
no
denying
breathed
out
into
the
surrounding
air.
Under
this
system,
there
is
thus
no
conserva-
tion
of
the
oxygen.
Once
breathed,
it
is
of
hand,
type
Chevalley,
leader
of
their
autumn
expedition,
Raymond
Lambert,
up
these
labours,
not
the
least
of
them
secretarial.
mountain
too
late.
By
the
time
they
had
established
themselves
at
the
upper
end
of
the
Western
Cwm,
Nepal.
Originally
of
Tibetan
stock,
to
whose
language
theirs
is
closely
akin,
they
are
small,
sturdy
men
with
all
the
sterling
quali-
ties
of
born
mountaineers.
Many
of
them
have
migrated
engaging
the
awkward
corners.
Moreover,
there
was
much
clicking
of
cameras
get
to
grips
with
the
no
advantage
in
forcing
the
pace,
even
had
this
been
practicable
with
so
long
a
simple
ceremony
to
perform
on
arrival,
the
laying
deceased
predecessor.
Coached
as
die
 Abominable
Snow-
man .
The
the
harvest,
and
a
special
house
is
maintained
for
him,
situated
high
up
on
the
mountainside.
This
ceremony
was
due
on
the
bring
about
completely
en-
gaged,
Mike
and
Wilfrid
were
trying
out
the
Open-Circuit
equip-
Sherpas
in
ice
work
among
This,
Lake
Camp,
was
journey
between
these
glacier
camps
long,
level
journey
steepened
and
it
became
necessary
to
put
on
crampons
and
rope
up.
This
place
was
named
 the
and
shelter,
trunks
ordered
by
Mike
Westmacott
had
been
set
up
the others.
be
useful
to
supple-
ment
the
crossing
over
this
Berg-
schrund
glacier
it
was
easy
to
dodge
this
obstacle,
Face
Assault
were
to
some
extent
governed
by
the
type
of
oxygen
equipment.
It
had
long
been
realized,
in
theory
at
least,
that
the
peculiar
advantage
of
to
kept
in
preparation
of
a
route
up
the
Lhotse
Face,
having
its
as
Advance
Base
that
morn-
ing.
We
than
when
I
had
seen
him
three
days
before,
and
although
through
the
funnel
formed
by
the
serac
guarding
Camp
VII
and
the
slopes
behind
Camp
IV
next
day.
Since
place
in
the
team;
there
my
pace.
The
route
between
Camps
VI
to
go,
but
the
time,
and
by
about
5.30
p.m.
we
three
were
in
the
Pyramid,
the
two
Sherpas
of
a
mountain
named
Nepal
Peak,
23,400
feet,
close
Col
was
a
 Walkie-phone
set.
This
I
found
and
we
oxygen
all
the
way
since
leaving
Advance
Base
could
reach
a
point
high
on which
buttress
our Advance
time
re-
quired
to
climb
an
unknown
ridge,
seen
foreshortened
in
this
way
so
that
was
dragged
from
his
steps,
sliding
with
gathering
speed
down
the
hard
by
the
clouds
which
now
screened
the
mountain.
typical
of
lower
shelf
half-over-
hanging
the
the Primus and
of
knee,
struggle.
I
checked
both
our
oxygen
sets
and
roughly
the
of
Her
Majesty
the
Queen.
At
this
time,
the
policy
of
accompany-
ing
our
men
through
this
section
The
Queen
and
very
a
most
220
Overseas Air-
teamwork.
If
there
is
a
deeper
and
more
lasting
message
to
reduce
move-
ment
between
Base
Camp
and
camp
(Camp
VII
in
the
event.
Ridge
Camp
was
Camp
IX).
8
spell.
The
parties
will
then
be
reconstituted
and
move
out
again
for
the
second
acclimatization
spell.
Association,
of
Ketter-
ing.
The
design
and
production
months.
slip
into
entrance
sleeves,
been
in
the
Decompression
Chamber
at
Farnborough,
which
proved
it
to
be
satisfactory
at
40,000
so
, N
blood
due
to
lowering
of
CO
2
tension
is
compensated
by
excretion
of
alkaline
urine.
(c)
Increase
in
the
myohaemoglobin
reasons for
atmos-
phere
of
pure
oxygen
the
oxygen
246
Camp
VIII,
177-82,
194,
195,
208
Camp
IX,
Ridge,