Summer Textile Internship

Summer Textile Internship2015

DECLARATION

We Sakshi kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh hereby declare that the internship project report titled Summer Textile Internship, submitted towards the fulfillment of two weeks internship is our original work and no part of the project has been copied from any other reports or any other work carried by someone else which has been submitted for any other degree or award. However, any material taken from any other published source has been suitably referred and acknowledged at various spaces.

(__________________)Ms. Subhalakshmi KropiNAME: Sakhi KaulSohini AliSunistha SinghBATCH: 2013-17.DATE: 25th May 2015 06th June 2015.PLACE: Arvind Textile Mills, Santej, Ahmedabad, Gujrat, India 380015.CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that the Internship Project titled Summer Textile Internship, submitted towards the partial fulfillment of the Bachelors in Fashion Technology by Sakshi Kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh is their original work under my guidance and the results are based on the research done by them.

(___________________) Ms. Subhalakshmi Kropi

DATE: PLACE:

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are grateful to NIFT for providing us an opportunity to work on our Summer Textile Internship. We express our whole hearted thanks to our Mentor Ms. Subhalakshmi Kropi for her encouragement and moral support in organizing our work and giving us valuable information for making it presentable.We are indebted to Mr. Kabir Sarosh (Processing Department Supervisor) and Mr. Rajesh Tiwari(Weaving Department Supervisor), who guided and supervised us throughout this study. We have no words to express our gratitude towards them.We are also thankful to Ms. Shivangi Seth (Human Resource Department) for providing us the details of conducting the research from its inception.We will be failing in our duty if we do not mention the name of our Director Prof. V Shivalingam and other faculty members for their help in our Internship Project.Lastly, we are also obliged to our family and friends for providing us valuable suggestions.

1. INTRODUCTION1.1. TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the design or manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles. Textile is a general term applied to any manufacture from fibers, filaments, or yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness. Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the basic requirement of raw materials to the final products, with huge value-addition at every stage of processing.

Textile Internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes on the learning of the processes in the Textile Industry which involves the major processes of procuring raw material, spinning, weaving or knitting, dyeing, printing, finishing, testing and quality control measures. The internship revolves around observing the functioning and processing at a Textile Manufacturing Unit.

It also greatly focuses on the learning of the process parameters, working conditions, process flow and other important criteria in the manufacturing process. It is also important to observe the machinery details, safety measures, and productivity, testing and quality criteria. We were to understand the step-wise breakdown of all the process, how they are carried and what are the start and end-product at each of these steps.

1.2. INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Indian textile industry and market size Textiles sector contributes to 14 per cent of industrial production. 4 per cent of national GDP. 10.63 per cent of country's export earnings.

MARKET SIZE India's share of global textile exports is expected to increase from the Current 4% to around 7% over the next three-years

GROWTH RATE OF ARVIND LIMITED 3-4 percent during the last six decade 9-10 percent during last five year

SCOPE OF RIVALRY Raymond India Welspun India ltd Alok Industries Gokaldas Exports Fig 1.1. Arvind ltd. Revenue compositionArvee Industries Bharat Vijay mills

1.3. OBJECTIVE OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

The objective of our textile internship at Arvind Limited was to understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purposes.

Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. We further dealt with the way the company handles the raw material and sends it through to subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were to learn about the various stages in the entire process of textile manufacturing, the importance of each of these stages, the machinery features, machine and material process parameters available in detail in the areas as mentioned below.

We summarize some of the major concepts that we were to observe and understand during our internship:

Spinning Section

Weaving Section Dyeing Section Quality Assurance Section Environmental Factors

1.4. COMPANY OVERVIEW

Date of Establishment1931

Revenue604.01 ( USD in Millions )

Market Cap18037.2105231 ( Rs. in Millions )

Corporate AddressNaroda Road, , Ahmedabad-380025, Gujaratwww.arvindmills.com

Management DetailsChairperson- Sanjay S LalbhaiMD- Sanjay S LalbhaiDirectors Bakul Dholakia, G M Yadwadkar, Jayesh K Shah, K M Jayarao, KulinLalbhai, Munesh Khanna, PrabhakarChavan, Prabhakar,Dalal, PunitLalbhai, R V Bhimani, R W Khanna, RenukaRamanath, S R Rao, Sanjay S Lalbhai,Sudhir Mehta, TarunSheth

Business OperationTextile

Company SecretaryR V Bhimani

BankersABN Amro Bank, Axis Bank , Bank of Baroda, Canara Bank , EXIM Bank, HDFC Bank, ICICI Bank, Standard Chartered Bank, State Bank of Hyderabad, State Bank of India, State Bank of Patiala, UCO Bank

AuditorsSorab S Engineer & Co

1.5. COMPANY PROFILE

The Arvind Ltd. was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in 1931. With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been high and quality required has been superlative. The Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 500 million). Arvind Mills has set the pace for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its attention on selection of core products.

Fore vision and Technology has made Arvind one of the top three producers of Denim in the world, and the most diversified conglomerates in the world. Arvind is already making its presence felt in Shirtings, Knits and Khakis fabrics apart from being all set to create ripples in the ready to wear Garments world over.

Arvinds knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 10,000 tons. Apart from the basic knitting capabilities, Arvind has mastered specialty knitting techniques such as yarn-dyed auto stripers, jacquards, and stretch fabric. The knits vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 6500 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of 3500 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabric and offer specialty finishes like mercerization, singing and various forms of brushing and peaching. The department also boasts of a state-of- the art print shop equipped with fully automatic rotary screen printing technique.

1.5.1. VISION AND VALUES

The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of all business activities at Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities and demographics. To serve that end, the corporate vision for Arvind states: We will enable people to experience a better quality of life by providing enriching and inspiring lifestyle solutions.

1.5.2. MILESTONES1931 -The inception of Arvind Mills at the hands of three brothers Kastur bhai, Narottam bhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai.1934 - Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.1980 - Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy Reno vision, points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-quality premium niche market.1987-88 - Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for leisure and Denim for fashion wear.1991 - Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world.1997 - Indias largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set up at Santej.2005 - Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering garment packages to reputed national and international customers.2007 - Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by establishing Mega Mart One of Indias largest value retail chains.2010 - Arvind launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the companys best fabrics, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof. Arvind launches its first major Real Estate projects. Arvind becomes one of Indias largest producers of fire protection fabrics.2012 Joint venture with PD Group, Germany, for manufacture of glass fabrics.2014 Joint venture with PVH Corp for Calvin Klein Businesses in India. Launches Formal suits with Goodhill Corporation Limited of Japan.2014 Joint venture with OG Corp, Japan, for manufacture and sale of non-woven fabrics, project being spearheaded by Dr. Kunal Shah.2014 Forayed into the E-commerce segment with custom clothing brand 'Creyate'.

1.5.3. ARVIND TODAY

Arvind has a strong focus on Research and Development for process improvement, cost reduction and new product development. This is evident in the fact that Arvind continuously modifies its production process to enhance flexibility on the use of various types and quality of cotton.

Fig. 1.2 Arvind StoreState-of-the-art technology and equipment have made Arvind one of the leading producers of denim in the world. This cutting edge position comes to Arvind courtesy technologies such as Open-end Spinning, Foam Finishing, Mercerizing, Slasher-dyeing, Rope-dyeing, Air-Jet, Projectile and Wet Finishing. Its only natural that Arvind quality fabrics are in high demand in the markets of Europe, US, West Asia, the Far East and Asia Pacific.

Fig. 1.31.5.4. PRODUCTION FLOW CHART

ARVIND LIMITED

Managing Director (SANJAY LALBHAI)

Quality AssuranceHuman Resource DepartmentExports & DomesticsStoresGarment Packages Divisions

Processing & FinishingEngineeringSpinningWeaving

ProductionAdministration and AccountsOrder Management & Documentation

Order ManagementSamplingDocumentationInvoicingOrder Follow up

AdministrationAccountsBankingISOCo-ordinationPurchasesProductionInspection

1.6. COMPANY PROCESS FLOW

The customer and the marketing department communicate with each other. The marketing department then talks with Product Development Group (PDG) and then communicates the terms discussed to the Quality Assurance and Product Planning and Control (PPC) who decide on the various guidelines and the time required to execute the order. These guidelines are then communicated to the plant head who conveys them to the various departments according to the guidelines and instructions. The fabric is then sent to the fabric inspection and then to the Central Quality Assurance, who sends it to folding and dispatch from where other financial activities follow.

Fig 1.4 Company Process Flow1.7. DENIM

Fig 1.5Fig 1.3The late 1980s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in their success. The use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. All their products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from their designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of distinctiveness and quality.Some Examples: Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim Organic, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and Sustainable denimThe denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Our labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification) and customers like Levis, Lee, and Wrangler etc.1.8. KNITS

Fig 1.6Arvinds knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics and offers specialty finishes like mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching.Basic knits: Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock

Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric

Fibres: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester

Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.Marks & Spencer Eddie Bauer Zara Josepha Banks

1.9. WOVEN (SHIRTING)

Fig 1.7Their expertise in new age shirting fabric and bottom weights is unparalleled. Their shirting fabrics have consistently fetched a premium in the local and international markets. Their state of the art facility is capable of producing a total of 65 million meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This capacity is set to increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next financial year.

Fig 1.4They have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product innovation and fashion forecasts for the domestic and international markets. They are the largest yardage and sampling mill in India.

Fig 1.8Their spinning setup can produce a variety of counts for yarn types like compacts, slubs, singed yarn etc. Their weaving capabilities include high-speed Airjet looms and Rapier looms. Their finishing capabilities include continuous bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization, and machinery for various chemical and mechanical finishes.A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete with vessels ranging from 1 Kg to 750 Kgs and state of the art printing facilities are also in place. In addition to cotton they now work with a variety of fibres including Modal, Tencel, Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester and Nylon. They are host to Indias first Ammonia Mercerization Plant They use patented technology to impart structural stability and superior hand-feel for the difficult-to-handle fibres like Modal, Tencel, Excel and Viscose Over the years, therein-house R&D department has successfully developed and perfected a number of finishes adding value to their products and uniqueness to their range. Other Chemical Finishes: Wrinkle free, Prepress, Everfresh, Easy to Iron, Stain Repellent, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc. Mechanical Finishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium

Fig 1.9Their product range is certified by Oekotex, their processes are certified by GOTS for producing Organic products, they are certified producers of Lycra and Teflon based varieties, while their laboratory is accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.1.10. Customers

Gap Inc Patagonia Tommy Hilfiger Quicksilver Brooks Brothers Silver Jeans Calvin Klein FCUK Pull & Bear Jack & Jones Energie Esprit S.Oliver Mexx Sisley Benetton Coin

Own BrandsLicensened Brands

MainstreamBridge to Luxury

Excalibur GantU.S.A. 1949

Flying MachineEnergie

PopularPremium

Ruf & TufUSPA

New Port UniversityArrow

Izod

Joint Venture BrandsPopular

Bridge to LuxuryCherokee

Tommy HilfigerMossimo

Premium

Lee

Wrangler

1.11. PRODUCTION PLANNING CONTROLThe production planning team need to coherently work on deciding whether the capacity of the plant is enough to fulfil the order in the given lead time.Usually the lead time for any particular order is 50 to 55 days, including all quality checks inspection etc.The thumb rule for calculation of lead time: Pre- spinning procedures: 3 days

Spinning: 15-20 days

Warping and dyeing- 3 days

For every weaving cycle- 3 to 4 days(weaving cycles depend on the order qty and above mentioned factors)

Usually for one order about 8 to 10 weaving cycles required

Finishing processes- 1 day for each process, if not covered in the integrated finish processing machine

Inspection 2 to 3 days

Washing 2 to 3 days

1.11.1. RAW MATERIAL Cotton

100 kilo cotton = 88 kilo of yarn(for combed yarn) (75% yarn realisation)

Loss: 1 % sizing, 2.3 to 2.5 % weaving, 1% warping (total 4 to 4.5%)

SPINNING SECTION

2. SPINNING SECTIONTo produce quality yarns for world class shirtings with optimum cost within stipulated time frame through continuous improvement. In Arvind open end spinning process is carried out. They have two separate lines of manufacturing, for cotton and synthetic fibers. Each line has the same machines in the same amount.2.1. LAYOUT OF THE SPINNING SECTION

Fig. 2.1 Spinning section layout2.2. RAW MATERIAL

2.2.1. STORAGE Bales are bought and stored into the cotton godown at the shirting section. Weight of the bale (comes in packages of 220 to 250 kg)

Storage Area: 1500-2000 sq. M

Capacity: 4000-6000 bales

2.2.2. VARIETY OF COTTON FOR SHIRTING DIVISION Pakistan cotton Bani Brahma Maharashtra baby cotton American cotton Recycle cotton Gizza-76, 45 & 88(Egyptian) Australian ELS Cotton in Arvind Mills is mainly imported from Pakistan, Turkey, U.S.A., Australia, Egypt and China.

FLOW ORDER

SECTION/FLOW OUTPUT

FUNCTION

1.BLOW ROOM

Cotton tuft

Opening, cleaning and blending

2.CARD

SliverIndividualization of fibre, neps removal and sliver preparation

3.PRE DEFRAME

Breaker sliverParallisation and improvement in sliver

4.UNILAP

Comber lapTo prepare lap sheet suitable for combing

5.COMBER

Combed sliverShort fibre removal, individualization and sliver preparation

6.POST DRAW FRAME

Finisher sliverParallisation and improvement in sliver quality (by mass variation)

7.SPEED FRAME

Roving bobbinTo prepare a suitable roving for ring frame by inserting twist

8.RING FRAME

Yarn

To produce yarn on smaller package

9.

RANDOM WINDING

Cleared yarnTo prepare bigger package after removing faults

10.ASSEMBLY WINDING

Assembled yarnTo assemble the yarn

11.TFO

Double yarnTo impart twist in assembled yarn and produce bigger package

12.SINGEING

Singed yarnTo remove protruding fibres on the surface

Table 1. Flow Order of Spinning Section2.3. TRUTZSCHLER BLOW ROOM PROCESSESThe basic purpose of blow room is to supply small, clean homogeneously blended fibre tufts, if more than one variety of fibre is used to carding machine without increasing fibre rupture, fibre neps, and broken seed particles and without removing more good fibres.

The above is achieved by the following processes in the blow room:

Pre-opening Pre-cleaning Mixing or Blending Fine Opening

2-4% of the fibre is removed in the blow room section as waste. Feeding is done by the lattice feeding system in the blow room. Humidity in the blow room should be around R.H. 65% to 75%.

VARIATION: Standard intra lap variation = 1.0%. If the variation is more than 1.0% the lap shall be rejected.

Lap Parameters: Count Weight Length

8s - 10s 20.0 kg 36 yards

10s 12s 16.5 kg 30 yards

15s 20s 20.5 kg 38 yards

24s 20.0 kg 40 yards

The blow room is divided into two sections:

Open end line ( for pure cotton fibre) Vertex line ( for manmade/ synthetic fibre)

Production capacity (at 85% efficiency) Weight of lap produced 1700 kg/8hr/line Length of lap produced 4000 yards/8hr/line

Total production capacity of the unit 10 ton Time taken to produce one lap approx 4 6 min.No. Of laps produced per hour approx. 12

2.3.1. PRE-OPENING

Machine used: GBR-II Make- Trutzschler (Germany) 400 kg/hour

The tuft size in the missing should be as small as possible. Normally it should be less than 10 grams. Since this machine does not take care of long term blending, mixing should be done properly to maintain the homogenous blending This machine is not meant to remove trash , hence the fibre loss should also be less Trash removal in this machine will result in breaking the seeds, which is very difficult to remove It is easier to remove the bigger trash than the smaller trash, therefore enough care should be taken to avoid breaking the trash particles This machine is just to open the tufts into small sizes so that cleaning becomes easier in the next machines. The fibre tuft size from this machine should be preferably around 100 to 200 milligrams. If tuft size is small, removing trash particles becomes easier, because of large surface area

2.3.2. PRE-CLEANING

Machine used:

Axiflow Cleaner Machine make: Trutzschler (Germany) Model: 52-2502 Pressure- 50-75 Bar Pre-cleaning should be gentle. Since removing finer trash particles is difficult, seeds and bigger trash particles should not be broken. Finer trash particles require severe treatment in Fine openers. This will lead to fibre damage and more nep generation. Therefore, pre-cleaning should be as gentle as possible and no compromise on this. If pre-opening and pre-cleaning are done properly, consistency in trash removal by fine openers is assured.

Dust removal should be started in this machine. Enough care should be taken remove dust in this process.

The fibre treatment in this machine is very gentle because the fibres are not gripped by the feed roller during beating.

Fibre tufts treated by the pin beater when it is carried by air medium

All heavy trash particles fall down before it is broken Cleaning efficiency of this machine is very high in the blow room line

Mostly all heavy seeds( full seeds) fall in this machine without any problem

Around 50 Pascal suction pressure should be maintained in the waste chamber for better cleaning efficiency

Beater speed, air velocity through the machine, grid bar setting and gap between grid bars will affect the cleaning efficiency

Higher the cleaning efficiency, higher the good fibre loss, higher the nep generation and higher the fibre rupture

The optimum cleaning means maximum cleaning performance, minimum loss of good fibres, a high degree of fibre preservation and minimum nep generation.

2.4. BLENDINGPROCESS

Fig. 2.2Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending apron. Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked off by the roll. Some of the cotton stays on apron. The cotton knocked back by roll and continues to chum and blend until picked up again by apron. Another roll strips off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on conveyor belt and is carried to next process. It is necessary so as to obtain uniformity of fiber quality.MACHINE USED: BLENDOMAT -TRUETZSCHLERModelBDT/019/2300

Bale LayoutBOTH SIDES (2 ROWS)

No Of Bales50-60

Weight Of Bales110-167 kgs

Mode Of Bale LayingMANUAL

Material In ProcessCOTTON WITH IMPURITIES

It helps to maintain the homogeneity of the long term blending. Cotton is opened gently without recycling as it is done in manual bale openers. With the latest automatic bale opening machines, the tuft size can be as small as 50 to 100 grams without rupturing the fibres. The opening roller speed should be around 1500 to 1800 rpm. the depth of penetration of the opening should be as minimum as possible for better quality. It is better to use this machine with one mixing or maximum two mixing at the same. If the production per feeding machine is less than 150 kgs, then four mixings can be recommended.

2.5. OPENING PROCESS

Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and loosen up the mass. The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by fan. This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the small rolls.

Fig. 2.3Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton to another type of beater. From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to hopper. The fiber is mixed and passed to an opener, cylinders with protruding fingers open up the limp and free the trash. The kind and number of cylinders or beaters, employed depend upon the type of cotton that is being processed. As the cotton is opened, trash falls through a series of grid bars.

MACHINE USED: GBR COTTON OPENERModel NoGBR

Opening Speed400 Kg/Hr

Tuft Size50-100 gms

Opening Roller Speed1500-1800 rpm

No. Of Mixings2

No. Of Chambers8

Power Consumption4.95 W

2.6. CARDING PROCESS

Fig. 2.4Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING. The work is done by carding machine. The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn o rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves concentrically above this cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining trashes, disentangles the fibers, and arranges them in a relatively parallel manner in form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a round rope like mass called card sliver. Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons serviceable for inexpensive cotton fabrics.

Fig. 2.5STEPS:The lap from pucker unrolls and feed roll passes cotton licker in roll (covered with saw toothed wire).The licker in roll passes fiber against cleaner bars and gives it up to large cylinder which passes between the thousands of fine wires on surface of cylinder and on flats. The cotton follows large cylinder to doffer cylinder, which remove lint from large cylinder. The doffer comb vibrates against doffer cylinder and takes lint off in a filmy web that passes through condenser rolls, coiler head, and then into can. The sliver may be passed from one can to combing for further removal of foreign matter and parallelization of fiber or directly to drawing.

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONSMakeTRUTZSCHLER

ModelDK 803

No Of Machines14

Card Cleaning Efficiency62-67%

Temperature33.3 C

Humidity56.5%

Pressure325 Pascal

Production80 Kgs/Hr

Front Delivery Speed210-240 Min

2.7. DRAWING PROCESS

Fig. 2.7Fig. 2.6The combining of several fibers for the drawing, or drafting, process eliminates irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were pulling through singly. The draw frame has several pairs of rollers, each advanced set of which revolves at a progressively faster speed. This action pulls the staple lengthwise over each other, thereby producing longer and thinner slivers. After several stages of drawing out, the condensed sliver is taken to the slubber, where rollers similar to those in the drawing frame draw out the cotton further. Here the slubbing is passed to the spindles, where it is given its first twist and is then wound on bobbins.

STEPS:Her six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing from delivery. The spoons are connected so that if any one of the six slivers from can should break, the machine automatically stops. This prevents making uneven yarn later. Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set. The last set runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver coming out is the same size as each one of six going in. but is attenuated to six times the length per minute. The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by coiler head. The sliver is now much more uniform and fibers much more nearly parallel. The sliver is now ready for roving frames. 2.8. COMBING PROCESS

Fig. 2.8When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional straightening called COMBING. In this operation, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that the short fibers, called noils, are combed out and completely separated out from the longer fibers. The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which, in turn, produces a smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much as 25% of the original card sliver; Fig. 2.7thus almost one fourth of the raw cotton becomes waste. The combing process, therefore, is identified with consumer goods of better quality. Since long-staple yarns produce stronger, smoother, and more serviceable fabrics, quality cotton goods carry labels indicating that they are made from combed yarns or combed yarns.MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:MakeLAKSHMI

Model NoLK69

Production Capacity2.1 TONS/DAY

Speed600 M

2.9. SPINNING PROCESS

Fig. 2.9Fig. 2.9The roving, onbobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through several sets of rollers running at successively higher rates of speed and is finally drawn out to yarn of the size desired. Spinning machines are of two types; ring frame and mule frame. The ring frame is faster process, but produces a relatively coarse yarn. for very fine yarns, such as worsted, the mule frame is required because of its slow, intermittent operation. The ring frame, which is general in use, is more suitable for the manufacture of cotton yarns in mass production. Its hundreds of spindles, whirling thousands of revolutions per minute, and its constant spinning action provide a fast operation. Thering spinning framecompletes the manufacture of yarn (1) by drawing out the roving (2) by inserting twist, and (3) by winding the yarn on bobbins-all in one operation. The bobbins of yarn are removed for such processing as may be desired; for example, the yarn may be reeled into skeins for bleaching or may be wound on cheeses, or spools, for ultimate weaving.

Fig. 2.10STEPS:The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except that the operation is more refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer. From bobbin roving is fed between set of drafting rolls to draw strand down to its final desired size. The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls is adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired mount of twist as strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by drag of traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it delivered by rolls.

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:MakeZINSER

Model351

Application AreaSTAPLE FIBRES UPTO 60mm

Count Range167 4 TEX

Twist Range100-3500 t/M

No Of Spindles240-1680

Spindles Speed25000 rpm

Ring Diameter36-54m

2.10. OPEN END SPINNING

Fig. 2.11In open end spinning, the fibre supply is reduced, as far as possible, to individual fibres, which are then carried forward on an air-stream as free fibres. This permits internal stresses to be relaxed & gives rise to the term free fibre spinning. These fibres are then progressively attached to the tail or open end of already formed rotating yarn. This enables twist to be imparted by rotation of the yarn end. Thus the continuously formed yarn has only to be withdrawn & taken up on a cross-wound package.

2.10.1. EFFICIENCY IN SPINNING DEPARTMENT:

Open end: 85 to 90% Draw frame: 85 to 90% Auto doffing system: 88% Manual doffing system: 75% Comber: 93% Carding: 87%

2.10.2. PRODUCTION CAPACITY OF OPEN END SPINNING

6700 kg of 10s yarn can be produced per machine per day.

Machines work 24 hours a day, stopping only when faulty or for maintenance.

2.11. WINDING

Machine used: Auto Coner No. 1 In this stage the cops are winded into suitable cheeses and cones. This can be done both manually and automatically. Before final packing and dispatching, proper conditioning is done to the yarns. For this the Palletising machine is used. The lustre is added by spraying very, mild dew drops every two hours. This final cone weighs around 1.5 kilograms. Packing is done in gunny bags each carrying 40 cones and having an entire weight of 60 kilograms.

2.12. FREQUENTLY FACED PROBLEMS

Several defects in the yarn lead to a decrease in the production, and slows down the manufacturing process, since these defects have to be remedied during production. These defects are length variation, thick and thin, moir and count variation.

How these problems can be overcome? Machines with quality stops (sensors) are used to overcome these defects.

Safety precautions observed Fire extinguisher Medical centre with Ambulance Water hose pipe Boots for personal safety First aid box

WEAVING SECTION

3. WEAVING SECTION

3.1. Fig. 3.1PROCESS FLOW IN THE WEAVING UNIT

The warp beams are received from the warping department, which is situated inside the main plant. The transportation between the warping and weaving department is accomplished by the means of warp beam trolleys and trucks. Once the warp beams reach the loom shed, individual warp threads are needled through the heald eyes manually (drawing), hence preparing a beam for loading on to a loom. All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap in the reed prior to weaving. The warp threads are passed through eyelets on the heald. Two operators sit facing each other, across the frame and the operator facing the reed passes a hooked needle through the heald eyes and drop wires. The needle hook is then exposed to the second operator on the other side of the frame; who selects the correct yarn in its proper order and puts it on the hook so that when the needle is pulled, the yarn is threaded through the two loom parts. This process is carried out in an area right behind the main loom shed.

Fig. 3.2Fig. 3.2The yarns are then threaded through the reed dents as required by the reed plan (denting). The reed is like a comb and its purpose is to control the separation of the warp threads. Once the denting is complete, the beam is loaded as per the requirement. Once the already loaded warp beam is exhausted, the new one can be tied on to it by the means of manual knotting. After this the process of weaving can be resumed in about 2 hours.3.2. TYPES OF LOOMS

The Arvind Techno Park weaving unit at Santej houses 48 weaving looms, evenly distributed between two makes that is 24 of each, Toyota E Shed and Picanol Gammax. Both the looms can be bifurcated further on the basis of the number of heald frames and/or colored wefts which they can accommodate. Listed below is the information regarding the looms on the basis of their types and sub-types.

No of LoomsType

24Toyota E Shed (Airjet Looms)

24PicanolGammax (Rapier Looms)

Loom TypeNumber of LoomsNumber of Colored WeftNumber of Heald Frames

Toyota E Shed (Airjet Loom)6616

18416

Picanol Gammax (Rapier Loom)8824

16620

Fig 3.3.

3.2.1. Toyota E Shed (JAT 710)

Fig. 3.4 Toyota E Shed (JAT 710)As the production begins, the pre winder is released which is responsible for the release of the filling yarn in the main nozzle. On the other end, a catch cord catches the weft. The yarn is detached from the pre winder but the end from the pre winder is held at the machine end for the next insertion. This is followed by the beat-up motion, after which shedding and picking take place for the next pick.

3.2.2. Picanol Gammax

Fig. 3.5 Picanol GammaxPicanolGamMax is a double rapier loom. It is equipped with a weft presenter. The color and weave pattern are controlled by a microprocessor. A light weight gripper carries the weft yarn from one selvedge to another using free flight system. The loom makes use of electronic selvedge system.Listed below are the specifications of both the looms against the respective parameters. Toyota E ShedGammax

Type of LoomAirjet LoomDouble Rapier Loom

RPM(for the main shaft)1,250600

WIR2,650 m/min1160 m/min

Production6500m/day4000m/day

Efficiency(targeted)87%85%

UsageFor easier designsFor complex designs

AttachmentsDobbyDobby

Machine Width1900mm2200 mm

TOYOTA E SHED

PICANOL GAMMAX

WEAVING SECTION

4. WEAVING PREPARATORY

4.1. Re-Winding

Machines UsedMurutaMahavir

Capacity50 spindles120 spindles

No. of Machines103

The final cones from spinning are used to rewind the yarns on perfora ted bobbins to form soft cheeses that will be sent for winding. According to number of packages required for sectional warping. The Murata rewinding machines have a capacity of 50 spindles and they are 10 in total. 2-3 Local Mahavir machines can hold 120 spindles at once. A constant length of yarn is wound on all packages.

4.2. Sectional warping

Fig. 4.1

Fig. 4.2The pattern for a fabric requires yarn of specific length, number and color. These are wound on the warp beam in this section. A creel of capacity 720 cones holds the yarns. These are drawn through a leasing reed and warping reed and the emerging pattern wound on warping drum and finally on warping beam. There are 8 rows on the creel, which holds the yarns according to the warp pattern.

Fig. 4.2For shirting, the pattern is placed alternately, i.e. 13572468 upwards. Each row is used as layer for leasing. 7 lease are introduced in the beginning of every section and a 50% lease towards the end. The 7 lease help in sizing to separate layers in order prevent sticking together. 50% leasing helps in drawing.MakerVAMATEXBENNINGER

Model No.VM 108BEN-ERGOTRONIC

Drum Width2500mm2500mm

Maximum Warping Speed800m/min800m/min

Maximum Beaming Speed150m/min150m/min

For precise control high speed sensor are provided.4.2.1. Stop motion Stop motion for Picanol Gammax Rapier looms Warp stop motion (castellated bar)When the warp beam is taken to the loom for gaiting of warp, after being threaded through drop pins, heald eye and reed dents, the drop pins are threaded on to the slide bar. In case of a thread break, the corresponding drop pin falls down the free movement of the slider and slide bar is arrested thereby stopping the loom. Automatic pick findingIn case of a broken pick the machine stops and only the harness frames are brought in motion automatically so as to free the broken pick, without the reed touching the beat-up line.

Stop motion for Toyota E Shed JAT 710 Electronic warp stop motion Leno-selvage & waste-selvage break stop motion Reflecting type weft detector (double feeler) LED signal lampLight ColourImplication

Yellow light blinkingWeft thread breakage

Yellow and red light blinkingShut down via emergency switch

Red lightMechanical fault

Red light blinking when machine is workingElectronic projectile detector or weft detector is switched off

Blue light blinkingWarp thread breakage

4.3. Fabric designingArvind handles weaving consignments from most of the leading brands in the country and its in-house brands. The Arvind Techno Park weaving unit produces Shirting fabric in various contemporary designs such as solids, stripes and plaid. The designing of the fabric for in-house brands is carried out by the Textile Design Department. Henceforth, all the fabrics follow a common route namely, Pre Production Planning. 4.4. Objectives of Pre-Production Planning

Production Method: The selection of the production method is dictated by the Pre Production Committee, keeping in mind the feasibility of the design and efficiency and ability of the machines available.

Determination of Details: Assessment of the fabric in question to establish necessary constants of the weave plan such as Ends per Inch, Picks per Inch, pegplan, drawing, warping section, weave etc.

4.5. Safety measures

Ear plugs: Aloom shed is bound to have extremely high levels of noise due to the constant beat-up motion, clanking of the heald shafts, shuttle (for shuttle looms) etc. Hence, it is absolutely mandatory for the operator to be equipped with ear plugs to prevent permanent damage to his health.

Shoes: To move around in the loom shed, it is absolutely imperative to cover ones feet thereby ensuring physical safety.

Half sleeve clothes: Working with a loom involves a lot of activity near the weft presenters warp thread, machine parts etc. Therefore it is advisable to wear half sleeved clothes and avoid any sort of entanglements and accidents, in extension.

Cover moving machine parts: As far as possible, it is ensured that all the moving machine parts are covered. Such as protection guard over take-up rollers in case of a Picanol Gammax loom.

4.6. Weaving Machine Details:

MACHINE

NO. OF M/C

MAXIMUM COLOR WEFT YARN

PRODUCTION PER DAY

FEATURES

Toyota Air-jet weaving loom type

24

6 M/C 6 18 M/C 4 6500 meter

Working width 3400mm,6 and colours,positive electronic STAUBLI dobby type 2861,up to 16 shafts,max RPM =800, 380V-50Hz, 1 reed.

PINACOL rapier Looms type GamMax model 244400 metreWorking width 3600mm, 4 colours, max RPM = 550, positive electronic STAUBLI dobby type 2861with pre- equipped for batching motion but without the batcher.

ECGI Electric suction machine

4--To suck the loose flying li dust particles to prevent it from sticking to the machines and fabric.

4.7. Product defects

Broken pattern: Instances of wrong drawing of thread in a colour pattern or wrong picking lead to non-continuity of a weave/design/pattern. Double end: Taking more ends in the heald eye leads to weaving of two or more ends as one. Float: Improper shedding, slack heald shafts etc. lead to improper interlacement of warp and weft threads over a certain area. Gout: Foreign matter (such as lint or waste) accidentally gets woven into the fabric. Hole, Cut or Tear: These occur for a variety of reason and end up rupturing the fabric. Missing ends: Despite being equipped with warp stop motions, this defect is observed due to reasons such as dirty electro bars and operators inattentiveness.

4.8. Problem faced

Fig. 4.3 Removal of extra fibersIn weaving room, relative humidity, has a great impact on the performance of the looms. The optimal level of temperature and humidity over the machines, i.e. the warp, is generally not reached, because the sources of heat within the weaving machine disturb the climatic condition. Numerous yarn breaks are caused by the dust, lint and fiber accumulation.

PROCESSING SECTION

5. PROCESSING UNIT

5.1. OBJECTIVEThe aim of preparatory wet processing is to treat the goods by standard procedures so that they are brought to a state in which they can be dyed, printed and finished without showing any fault on fabric.5.2. GREY FABRIC INSPECTIONIn Arvind mills Grey fabric inspection is done through the 4 point system.

Length of defectDemerit points

3 inches or less1

More than 3 inches but not more than 6 inches2

More than 6 inches but not more than 9 inches3

More than 9 inches4

Fig. 5.1

Fig. 5.2

5.2.1. Fabric is classified as:

Grade A: less than 3 defects per 100 m

Grade B: 3 - 6 defects per 100 m

Grade C: more than 6 defects per 100

5.2.2. Acceptable tolerance: 28 points per 100 sq. yd. for each individual roll. 20 points per 100 sq.yd for average of rolls inspected. Fig. 5.3More defects are found in dobby weave, heavy varieties, etc If more than 4 points are detected/ 100m of fabric then it is reported to the weaving section and sent further for mending. 8 machines are used for initial checking but 5 machines are used for rechecking. After initial checking, the fabric is sent to the storage area.

OTHER INFORMATION

There are 8 inspection machines and total 3500 metre of fabric is inspected on one machine in one day. That means total 28 thousand of fabric is inspected in one day. Also efficiency of inspection system is 90%.

5.3. MENDINGThe fabric is bought from the storage area for mending. After mending, the fabric is sent back to the storage area and then sent for re-checking. After mending of the fabric the fabric is sent forbatching. There are 3 mending machines in the industry.

5.4. BATCHING

Fig. 5.4After mending, fabric is sewn end to end and then batched. Spec sheets are sent to the batching in charge, wherein it is mentioned how many meters of what fabric needs to be rolled together in one package. After batching, the fabric is sent for singeing.

5.5. SINGEINGSingeingis a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric.

Fig. 5.5 Singeing Singeing machine used: OSTHOFF-SENGE Model BZ/3.

CNG is used for burning the protruding fibres, yarn ends and fuzz.

Flames are applied perpendicular to the fabric.

Pressure gauge in the machine controls the pressure.

Maximum Speed of the machine is 100 m/min.

In a shift i.e. of 8 hours, 30,000m of fabric is singed.

The efficiency of the machine is 85%.

A roller with brushes removes the fibres on selvedge and small protruding fibres. A suction pump takes these fibres and pumps them into an air bag. This bag needs to be changed every week.

There are two burners, the machine operates at 10000c and works at 1 m/s.

Special rubberized rollers are used for quenching. Fabric takes 4 seconds to traverse from burners to these quenching rollers. Till this time the temperature of the fabric lowers down to 700 C. These rollers further cool the cellulosic fibre.

Arvind mills Ltd uses Gas singeing due to following reasons: Efficient singeing No local cooling problems No hardness is produced on fabric surface.

5.5.1. STEPS INVOLVED IN SINGEING The fabric passes through a tension unit with guide rollers. Then fabric passes through pre-brushing unit which removes dirt/dust, lint and loose fibres from the fabric. After pre-brushing, the fabric enters into the singeing chamber. Adjustable water-cooled rollers are used to obtain different fabric/flame positions, which permit desired degree of singeing effect. A Carburettor or air/gas mixer allows automatic mixing of gas with air to control the intensity of the singeing flame. After passing over the flames, the fabric passes through (optional) steam quenching unit.

5.6. DESIZING

Desizing is done for the fabrics made from cotton or blends, the warp threads are coated with an adhesive substance known as 'size to prevent the threads breaking during weaving. Although many different compounds have been used to size fabrics, starch and its derivatives have been the most common sizing agent. After weaving, the size must be removed again in order to prepare the fabric for dyeing and finishing.

This process (desizing) must be carried out by treating the fabric with chemicals such as acids, alkali or oxidising agents. However starch breaking enzymes (amylases) are preferred for desizing due to their high efficiency and specific action. Amylases bring about complete removal of the size without any harmful effects on the fabric. Another benefit of enzymes compared to strong chemicals mentioned above is that enzymes are environment friendly.The unit visited took enzymatic desizing into practice and used the same m/c as for singeing.

Fig 5.6 desizing

5.6.1. STEPS INVOLVED

Wetting out with a suitable wetting agent. Steeping the temperature for affecting the swelling and softening of the size paste. Rinsing thoroughly in water.

5.6.2. CHEMICALS USED DMCP (surfactant agent) - [Deoxycytidine monophosphate]

Pulkozyme

MFB (wetting agent)

The fabric is desized, and then washed. Temperature = 550c

Efficiency of the machine = 85%

Usage of Calcium and Magnesium causes problems.

Chelating agent is used which forms a complex with the size present in the fabric, mixes in water and gets drained off.

This wet fabric is wound on batching rollers.

These rollers are rotated for 8 hours so that the enzyme can react with the size present on the fabric.

5.6.3. FEATURES:

An exhaust fan removes fluffs, fumes, dust collected by brush & exits through a ventilation hood. Mixture of C.N.G. (3O to 35 %) and air (65 to 70 %) is supplied at constant pressure. Double burner flame system which automatically controls the flame height, width and temperature. Cool water is supplied to make cool the burner. Water & Chemicals for desizing is supplied to quenching chamber from tanks through pipes.

5.6.4. FAULTS

There is a chance of scorching if flame height is not maintained properly.

Stopping of machine may cause heat bars on the fabric.

Selvedge may burn due to extra hairiness.

5.7. WASHING

Fig. 5.7

Machine used: INJECTA MACHINE, BENNINGER (GERMANY) Efficiency- 85-87%

5.7.1. PROCESS

The fabric is dipped in water for pre-wetting at 600C (forms slurry). Then the fabric is passed through steam (pulpy). Washing with hot water at 900C through jet. Then the fabric is washed again at 950C. Washing speed for piece dyed and white fabric is 50 m/min. Washing speed for yarn dyed fabric is 80 m/min

5.8. MERCERISING

Mercerising can be done at different stages during the pre-treatment process. This could be after Desizing or after Scouring or after Bleaching. When done after desize-washing, it induces maximum luster onto the fabric. However, contamination of dye can occur, which reduces life of the caustic lye. High degree of whiteness can be achieved if the bleaching process is done after mercerisation. Mercerisation after scouring and bleaching prevents contamination of caustic dye but effects the whiteness and absorbency. Mercerising can be done either on wet fabric with a dye concentration controller or on dry fabrics. Cold Mercerising is strictly done below 20 degree C as there are few chances of hydrolization of color.

Fig. 5.8250 gpl (grams per litre) caustic soda is applied and kept for 45 sec. Liquid ammonia (NH3) is used in mercerization (NH3 becomes liquid at -33degree Celsius) Liquid ammonia treatment is a highly effective and well controlled alternative to caustic soda mercerisation, but high capital cost of the necessary equipment for recovery and reuse of the ammonia as well as the application steps limits the adoption of this sophisticated approach more widely. The effect of liquid ammonia treatment on the dyeing of the cotton depends on the ammonia is removed. As with mercerising treated yarns and fabrics appear more deeply dyed than untreated material having the same amount of the dye present. There are total 3 machines for mercerization.

5.8.1. PURPOSE BEHIND MERCERIZINGMercerising enhances Dimensional stability Improves strength Absorbency Dye uptake and lustre, Parallelisation of fibres Sphering of fibres.

5.8.2. MACHINES USED

Kyoto Clip mercerizer High speed mercerization machine 72 meters long Speed 80 m/min

Benninger Computerized control Trough capacity(for caustic)- 1100 liters After 1 hour and 45 minutes 250 liters of caustic is drained off automatically to change the concentration of the liquor (concentration due to impurities).

5.8.3. Cold mercerizationIn Arvind cold mercerization is preferred and taken into practice. Cold mercerization dimensionally stabilizes warp and weft. It changes cellulose 1 to cellulose 2. The fabric is washed off with low gel caustic (50 80 gpl) and washed with hot water at 900C and then washed with the cold water. Speed of the machine is maintained at 30-50 m/min and the efficiency of the machine is 90%.

5.9. BLEACHING

(i) Oxidative bleaching: Generally oxidative bleaching is carried out using sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl) or hydrogen peroxide. Natural fibres like cotton are bleached with oxidative methods.

(ii) Reductive bleaching: Reductive method of bleaching is done with sodium hydrosulphite, a powerful reducing agent. Fibers like polyamide, Polyacrylics and Polyacetates can be bleached using reductive bleaching technology.5.9.1. MACHINE USED

1. BENNINGER (GERMANY)

No. of machines 1 Speed 58 m / min Trough capacity 116 litres of liquor Liquor contains - Caustic Peroxide Wetting agent Stabilizer

Fig. 5.9 Beinninger CBR

Wetting of fabric

Bleaching

Washing with plain water

Washing with acetic acid

Machine nameNumber of machines

Batching machine2

Singeing and desizing machine1

Injecta washer1

Continuous bleaching range1

Mercerizing machine3

Jumbo jigger2

Drying machine1

Soaping machine1

Table 5: Types and number of machines in the preparatory unit

DYEING SECTION

6. DYEING UNIT6.1. DYEINGDyeing is the process which provides uniform single colouration throughout the surface of the textile material. Dyeing can be classified into various categories on the basis of parameters such as textile material being dyed and whether batched or continuous. Given below is a description of all the dyeing processes which were going on in the unit during the visit. 6.2. YARN DYEINGDyeing, if done after the fiber has been spun into grey yarn, is described as yarn dyeing. Fabric made of dyed yarns is called yarn dyed fabric.

Fig. 6.1Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn dyed fabrics intended for laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary reason for dyeing in the yarn form is to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different colored yarnsin theweaving process.

Method employed: Package dyeing under high temperature and high pressure

Machine used: THEN

Number of machines: 87

Capacity: 18 tons/day

Fig. 6.26.3. PACKAGE DYEING MACHINES

In these enclosed machines where dyeing under pressure cantake place, the dye-liquor is circulated through wound packages of yarn until the dye is evenly exhausted. The yarn is wound onto perforated tubes or springs, and thepackages are classified according to count and formed are then mounted onto aperforated rod (spindle) or tube. After loading, the carrier is dropped into a seating in the dyeing tank by the means of overhead crane, through which the dye-liquor is circulated. The dye-liquor is pumped through thepackages in either direction, according to need. In dyeing warp yarns, a single perforated cylinder of the yarns fits into the seating of the dye tank.

Fig. 6.3

Packages that are too loosely wound may collapse during the dyeing process. However, packages that are too tightly wound may interfere with the circulation of the dye-liquor. In any case, the packages must be wound as uniformly as possible.

6.4. AUTOLAB-DISPENSER

There is a stock of primary dye solutions that can be mixed in specific proportions to get any shade. This is a computerized process and requires little intervention manually.To prepare dye solutions of accurate and specific concentration, this is helpful. A beaker is placed in which some quantity of water is filled. The range of dye that can be added is shown on the screen. Then it is taken and agitated for homogenous mixing. The beaker is replaced and desired concentration entered in the system. Water is filled to achieve that concentration.Yarn is weighed and tagged to be put into the solution for dyeing. Then the yarn or the fabric swatch is treated with dye for required amount of temperature and time. The machines which are used are:

Turbomat: its capacity is minimum 70gms.

Spectra dye: its capacity is 7. 5gms

Infrared colour: its capacity is 20gms

Fig. 6.4

6.5. PARTS OF DYEING MACHINEThe dyeing machine consists of:

MicroprocessorIt depends on light, medium, dark, reactive dyes. All details are feeded onto the processor and locked, as per the requirement one program is used.

Closing TankIn this chemicals are added as per the approved recipe and a tube passes from this tank to main tank through which dye liquor passes through.

Main tankIts the main tank in which carrier is been put.

First they put the carriage in the main tank in which 900 liters of water is filled. Then chemical is put into chamber which later goes to closing tank. Programming done according to chemicals, water, temperature. Water coming out from bottom of spindle and spreads out. There are mainly two stages: inout and out-in 7-8 hrs is taken for dyeing 1 carrier. Capacity is 18 tons/day

Fig. 6.5 Dummy CarriersDummy CarriersIn same vessel we can have different capacity. There are carriers known as dummy carriers. These carriers consist ofdummy spindles. Dummy spindlesare plain rod which doesnt have holes in them so that when dyeing process takes place water is not wasted in and out through these spindles. So these rods block the movement of water in andout through the spindle.

6.6. R.F. DRYER (RADIO FREQUENCY DRYER)After dyeing process almost double amount of water is present inside the package. Then water comes down due to gravity. For the remnant dyeing liquor, a radio frequency dryer is put to use. In this dryer machine electrodes are present, which create an electromagnetic field. H+ and O- polar molecules areproduced. They start vibrating and create energy. ThereforeH+ an O- get split. In this temperature has to becontrolled which is 80C and also height between these electrodes and yarns have to be maintained.It basically involves placement of dyed packages on a conveyer belt which moves at a speed of 9.2 m/hour. The excess dyeing liquor is removed through the process mentioned above. After the drying process, the yarn packages are winded in a cone, like 2 yarn packages are windedinoneconetocheckfortheshadevariationamongdifferentyarn packages.

TYPES OF DEFECTS1. Shade matching 2. Shade levelling

6.7. CARRIERS There are around 200 carriers available and minimum being 10 spindles. Maximum of 25 carriers can be put on a machine with at least 10 spindles on 1 carrier. Their height is around 180cm.

6.7.1. TYPES OF CARRIERS

SPRING

1.2 kg packages. These carriers are compressed by 12-15%. The weight of these carriers is 160-168 grams.

PLASTIC TUBE

945 g packages The weight of these carriers is 135-140 grams.

Carriers

AFTER TREATMENT:Hot wash: 80C for 10 minutes. Soaping chemical: wash of rd (0.5gpl upto 0.2% depth) Tan: Metaxiladw (0.7gpl 0.21 to 0.5%)6.8. FABRIC DYEING

6.8.1. JET DYEINGThis is the most modern machine used for the dyeing of polyester using disperse dyes. In this machine the cloth is dyed in rope form which is the main disadvantage of the machine.In this machine, the dye tank contains disperse dye, dispersing agent, leveling agent and acetic acid. The solution is filled up in the dye tank and it reaches the heat exchanger where the solution will be heated which then passed on to the centrifugal pump and then to the filter chamber. Therefore, this machine made use of HTHP dyeing method. The solution is filtered and reaches a tubular chamber. Here the material to be dyed will be loaded and the winch is rotated, so that the material is also rotated. Again the dye liquor reaches the heat exchanger and the operation is repeated for 20 to 30 minutes at 135C. Then the dye bath is cooled down, after the material is taken out.Metering wheel is also fixed on winch by external electronic unit. Its purpose is to record the speed of the fabric. The thermometer, pressure gauge is also fixed in the side of the machine to note the temperature and pressure under working. However, in the plant visited, the jet dyeing machine was not put to use due to the fact that it dyes the fabric in rope form, leaving it crinkled and its extremely low capacity of 1000m/batch.

6.8.2. ADVANTAGES OF JET DYEING MACHINE Dyeing time is short compared to beam dyeing. Production is high compared to beam dyeing machine.6.8.3. DISADVANTAGES JET DYEING MACHINE Cloth is dyed in rope form Risk of entanglement Chance for crease formation

6.9. CONTINUOUS DYEING

In continuous dyeing, there is a sequence of machinery chambers where-in the well prepared textile material is impregnated with the dye solution in the first section and then passed into the fixation chamber and/ or any other chemical bath used for fixation. Then the material is washed off and finally dried to complete the process. Continuous dyeing is ideal and economical when a large amount of textile must be dyed to the same shade. Machine used: Ben Dry Number of machines: 1 Dye used: Reactive dye > VAT dye (in order of preference)

6.9.1. PROCESS After a series of various rollers, the grey fabric is passed through a trough of dye stuff. After this comes in picture the process of chemical fixation. After being padded with sodium silicate (in an alkaline medium i.e. soda ash), the fabric is passed through steam chambers for chemical fixation. Further it is padded with CH3COOH to neutralize the soda ash and sodium silicate. Next step involves passing the fabric through an Infra-Red heater for mechanical fixation of the dye and drying up the fabric. 6.9.2. SHADE MANAGEMENTOnce a sample batch is developed, the following method is applied to control center to selvedge variation and shade variation between rolls.Center to selvedge variation checkThis process takes care of shade variation within the roll. The fabric is divided into 4 sections width wise as shown below:

4321

Further these pieces are cut and rearranged as shown below:

4312

Once the pieces are arranged as shown in the diagram, if there is any center to selvedge shade variation, it becomes evident instantly. Remedial measures are taken immediately. PROBLEM

The jet dyeing machine was left inutile due to low ROI and hence, in extension, poor productivity.

SOLUTION

It was resolved by putting the same machine to use for smaller consignments which required crinkle effect. It is now also used for desizing.

QUALITY ASSURANCE

7. QUALITY ASSURANCE7.1. TRADITIONAL VIEWTraditionally quality assurance was looked as if a post-mortem report where in the yarn and the fabric was checked for the quality and standards as per required by the customer. A proper policing was kept on what has been done and what is to be done.Modern view:In the modern day quality assurance has a wider scope and it includes activities like process ownership and calibration where in the department ownership is given to a person and it becomes his/ her duty to deal with it in the most efficient manner.

Fig 7.2Fig 7.1QA Lab is accredited by Marks & Spencers, Levis, L L Bean, Next, Gap Inc, Invista (For Lycra Testing), Liz Claiborne (Under Process)

Fig 7.37.2. QUALITY ASSURANCE LABS

7.2.1. COTTON LABORATORY:Cotton is held for the 70% cost of the fabric cost only and hence becomes a major factor which if controlled will add maximum contribution to the strength of Arvind mills.The coefficient of variance is calculated for the width, diameter and hairiness of the fibre. The machine used for this purpose is USTER TESTER 5.the fibre is passed at a speed of 400m/min and the variance is hence calculated. The variance is calculated against international or the preset Arvind standards.The length, weight and the exact count of the fibre is also calculated and the CASCADE machine is used for this purpose which ensured the right thing at the right time as per customer demands.

7.2.2. PHYSICAL TESTING LABORATORY

This testing happens at the yarn manufacturing stage and the yarn is tested for its1. Length2. Elongation3. ElasticityThe yarn should be tested in a way so as to know whether the yarn can take all the loadings or not and if yes to what extent can it take.This helps in deciding what processes the yarn can face and what effects cab be deduced.Single yarn strength and its elongations is measured using the USTER TENSORPAID 3 machine which is the most trusted name in the field and comes from Switzerland.INSTRON 4465 is used to check the tensile strength of the fibre and the tear strength is also calculated in grams.For all the above written testings the standard lab conditions are made at a temperature of 60+/-2 F and the humidity level is maintained at 65%+/-2%Factors like stretchablilty skew and shrinkage are tested after marking is done followed by three washings of the fabric; the fabric is tonned to the environment after keeping it in the standard environment.

7.2.3. CHEMICAL TESTING LABORATORY:

Fig. 7.4In the chemical laboratory they check all the fuels, dyes, and all the chemicals that are used in the production process. They even check the denim if it is washed with bleach how much it fades the colour. They try different process like how the denim would react in different conditions like in case of perspiration, salt water, normal water, in extreme temperature.

7.2.4. COLOUR QUEST LABORATORY:

In the colour quest they try to find out the different shades and they see to it that after the washing and drying process does the shade match the requirement of the customer or not.

7.2.5. CALIBRATION LABORATORY:

Calibration is a specialized measurement process where in one compares test and measuring instruments/ equipments of unknown status to well defined standards of greater accuracy in order to detect/eliminate error by adjustments & report any variation in accuracy capability.

7.2.6. CALIBRATION ACTIVITY

Calibration through in house facility 93%Calibration through out - side agencies 7%

7.2.7. CALIBRATION FACILITY AT CALIBRATION LABORATORY

Parameters and Instruments used for its calibration

TemperatureMercury thermometer, temperature indicator & controllers, temperature switches, temperature gauges, temperature transmitters.

PressurePressure gauge, vacuum gauge, pressure transmitter, pressure switch.

MassAnalytical weighing balance AC/OC voltage, AC/DC current, single phase power, frequency, resistance capacitance, conductance, logic pulses, logic levels.Digital& analogue amateur, millimeters, panel meters, frequency meters.

DimensionalMeasure tape, steel scale, Vernier capture, micro meter, dial gauge.

Gas lab instrumentsLab instruments used for quality conformance tests & physical testing lab & chemical testing lab.

Fig. 7.5

7.3. HVI SPECTRUM (High Volume Instrument) ZELLWEGER USTER

This is a prime instrument, which fulfills all the requirements and measures the different parameters for cotton to be used in production. The different criteria, which it detects, are as follows:

length of the fiber

uniformity in the length

strength of the fiber

Fig. 7.6 elongation or elastic behavior of the fiber

short fiber length (no. of fibers lesser than )

Rd: the color i.e. the degree of yellowness or whiteness of the fibers.

the percentage of coarseness and fineness of the fiber i.e. the micronaire measurement.

Around 150-200 gms of fibers are taken for testing.

7.4. FIBRO SAMPLER- HVI 900

This is a semi-operated machine and measures all parameters except color. A comb is used to take out fiber beard, which is used to feed the machine.

7.5. USTER MDTA 3

This is used to test impurities in cotton. 10-100 g of fiber is taken and the output includes clean cotton, micro dust and major impurities. The clean cotton serves as a standard for testing efficiency of carded sliver.

7.6. YARN FAULT-TESTING

7.6.1. CLASSIMAT:This instrument tests faults in the yarn. 100 km of yarn can be tested at once. The thick and thin, long and short areas of the yarn are detected and categorized according to the severity. In a graph, A1, B1, C1denotes the length of the fault, while A1, A2, A3denotes the mass of the yarn which in turn is a measure of thickness. If the resultant value falls under E, it is a long and thick area. F and G of the graph show thin and long areas.

7.6.2. USTER TENSOJET:This is a single yarn strength-testing instrument. It runs at a speed of 400 m per min. 500 readings are taken each out of 10 packages of one sample. It gives the values in unit of force/ count = g/tex. Elongation of the yarn is also measured.7.6.3. USTER UNEVENESS TESTER:This tests and reads thick places (+50%), thin places (-50%) and neps (200%). At a speed of 400m/min, yarn from 10 packages is tested. The Unevenness % and hairiness as a sum of total hair lengths are obtained At stages of ring winding, roving, cone winding etc tests are conducted many times a week to ensure consistency. This is in-process checking.

7.6.4. TWIST TESTER:According to the required specifications twist of the yarn is measured in this which involves different methods for single, doubled and open end yarn.

Fig. 7.7

7.6.5. AFIS (ADVANCED FIBER INFORMATION SYSTEM):An in process testing system for detecting neps, length, micronaire till roving stage.

7.6.6. WRAP BLOCK:It is used to measure the hank of the feeding material to decide the setting for the next process

7.6.7. YARN BOARD WINDER:Is done when required. Here, the yarn is wound on black or white board according to its own color and analyzed subjectively for slubs.

7.6.8. ELECTRONIC LEA STRENGTH TESTER:The lea is subjected to pulling force by means of clamps and breaking strength is tested. The value obtained is CSP (count strength product).

7.6.9. HAIRINESS TESTER:On the basis of optical principle, the hairiness is measured as the number of hairs per unit lengthfor 24 mm.

7.7. WRINKLE TESTER:

Fig. 7.8To determine a fabric's ability to recover after wrinkling under a predetermined load for a set period of time. Set of 3-D plastic replicas are available to grade fabrics.

7.8. CROCKMETERTo determine the color fastness of dyed or printed textiles or leather, this test is used for the determination ofcolor fastness against rubbing, either under dry or under wet conditions.

Fig. 7.97.9. Pilling Resistance TesterDetermines the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes of textile fabrics using the random tumble pilling tester. Specimens are laundered 3 times and then conditioned in atmospheric conditions for textiles The edges of 3 4x4 squares cut on the bias are sealed with glue and allowed to dry The 3 specimens are placed in the pilling chamber along with 25mg of gray-dyed cotton fiber and tumbled for 30 minutes Fig. 7.10The specimens are evaluated in a viewing apparatus against photographic standards (ASTM ADJD 3512) or in house fabric standards.

7.10. TEARING TESTER

Elmendorf Tearing Tester. To determine the ballistic tearing strength of textiles, paper or board. Range from 8000 to 64000 Millinewtons with suitable pendulum. Pendulums not included.

Fig. 7.11

Fig. 7.87.11. ABRASION AND PILLING TESTER

Fig. 7.12

Fig. 7.9To determine the abrasion and pilling resistance of all kinds of textile structures. Samples are rubbed against known abradents at low pressures and in continuously changing directions and the amount of abrasion or pilling is compared against standard parameters.

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS

8. ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS AT ARVIND

Optimizing usage of cotton, energy, chemicals & water. Adopting preventive strategies to reduce the generation of effluents, waste & air emissions.

Maintaining a safe working environment.

Increasing the green cover.

Training employees on environmental issues

8.1. AIR POLLUTION CONTROL

Arvind ltd. has switched from liquid fuel to natural gas for all their heating & steam requirements in order to avoid air pollution.

8.2. WATER TREATMENT

Arvind ltd. also possess chemical, biological treatment facilities to treat 1000m/day of effluents to meet the pollution control board norms.

8.3. ACCREDITATIONS

Global organic textile standards, control union certifications, the Netherlands, for processing of fibres from certified organic agriculture. ISO-17025 NABL national accreditation board for laboratories, Delhi, India, for chemical & mechanical disciplines of testing. Premier accreditation scheme by marks & Spencer, test methods and conditions set forth, laboratory, shirting division business, the Arvind mills ltd. Liz claiborne intl ltd., testing audit performance, laboratory, shirting business division, the Arvind mills ltd. SKAL international standards for sustainable textile production Labs certified by DuPont ISO14000: provides environment management standards to help organisations minimise their negative impact on the environment.

8.4. ACCREDITED BY

MARKS & SPENCERS LEVIS TOMMY HILFIGER RALPH LAUREN NEXT DUPONT DEBENHAMS9. LEARNINGS

Arvind is the best platform to learn how quality and quantity is maintained at the same time. Thats the reason we joined the mill for our first internship. We learn a lot in our 15 days internship.Ring dying process in denim was the best part of our learning as it was the process of great curiosity. Our mentor told and explain the whole process and clarified on the the process. Also we saw the only machine in Asia that is cone to beam converter. It converts the cone to beam and vice-versa. So we can use this machine with every machine and can produce output in any type of format.Also we came to know about some new finishing techniques like arrow finish which is given to provide softness to fabric. We got the opportunity to see the latest technology machines in the mill like drawing and carding machines which is able to reduce the manpower upto 8 persons per machine.Our whole internship was full of learning and it teaches us how quality is preserved with quantity.We got chance to an industry full of dedicated workers.

10. ARVIND LIMITED REVIEW NOTE 2014-15Agenda: Financial Performance: Consolidated

Financial Performance: Standalone

Business Analysis

Financial Performance: Q4 2014-15 Consolidated revenue growth of 8% and PAT growth of 3%

Business Highlights: Q4 2014-15 Moderate top-line growth with moderated bottom-line due to higher tax

Key Highlights:

Revenue growth of 8% achieved due to 17% top-line growth in Brands & Retail 16% top-line growth in Garments

PBT growth of 20%, PAT growth 3% over Q4 FY14 Despite healthy growth in PBT for the year, the PAT growth was muted due to higher tax

Exceptional items: Rs. 26 crores for retrenchment of 960 workers Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo Ralph Lauren

Financial Performance: FY 2014-15 Revenue growth of 14% and PAT growth of 7%

Business Highlights: FY 2014-15 Strong top-line & bottom-line growth

Key Highlights

Revenue growth of 14% achieved due to 23% top-line growth of Brands & Retail 6% top-line growth of Textiles EBIDTA margin % slightly lower Higher weightage of Brand & Retail Business Lower textile margin

PBT growth of 18% : PAT growth of 7% PAT growth lower at 7% due to higher tax

Exceptional items : Rs.29 crores for retrenchment of 1012 workers Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo Ralph Lauren Margin moderated in both key business segments in FY 2014-15 Quarterly margins lower than LY due to Forex loss and Mega Mart Performance

EBIDTA margin of textile business lower due losses incurred in two garments manufacturing plants which commenced commercial production in Q4.

Textiles Business: Revenue Mix in FY2014-15Textile revenue grew by 6%

Led by 8% growth Woven fabrics 6% growth in garments

2% growth in Denim 10% growth on a smaller base for the voiles business

Volume growth: Woven volume growth at 8%: Denim at 1%

Key Parameters: FY2014-15 Textiles

11. ANNEXURESReferences: Images given by Mr Subhanish Malhotra, Senior H.R. Manager, Arvind Limited, Santej. Facts and other data provided by different Department Supervisors: Mr.Kabir Sarosh (Processing Department Supervisor) and Mr. Rajesh Tiwari (Weaving Department Supervisor). www.arvindmills.com http://www.arvindmills.com/pdf/shareholding/2013/Review%20Note%20Q4%2012-13.pdf http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arvind_MillsNATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)51