Around the World in 106 Days with

Ray & Claire!!

Part 29 – Tahiti

Crystal-clear waters, spectacular coral reefs and black sand beaches surround the island of Tahiti whose landscape - as it was formed from volcanic activity - consists of towering volcanic peaks reaching over dense rainforests of soft ferns, plunging deep into the sea. At high altitudes, the dark, moist tree-ferns blanket the forests and beautiful waterfalls cascade into cool rivers and

streams.Truly and “Island to dream of” (but expensive for a foreigner to live on!)

The word tattoo originated in Tahiti and the legend of To-Hu (the god of tattoo) describes painting all the oceans’ fish in beautiful

colours and patterns.

In Polynesian culture, tattoos have long been

considered signs of beauty and in earlier times were ceremoniously applied

when reaching adolescence

On our travels around the Island we saw many locals wearing at least one flower behind their ear or stacked into a bun

Worn behind both ears means you are married but still available and if it is worn

backward behind your ear, it means you are available -

immediately!

Apparently there exists in Polynesia a true "language of flowers" such as a flower worn behind your right ear, means you are single and

available. Worn behind your left ear means you

are married, engaged or

otherwise taken

The beauty, drama, and power of today’s Tahitian dance testify its resilience in Polynesian culture. In ancient times, dances were directly linked with all aspects of life.

One would dance for joy, to welcome a visitor, to pray to a god, to challenge an enemy, and to seduce a mate

Dance is still accompanied by traditional musical instruments such as thunderous drums, conch shells and harmonic nasal flutes.

One of the most widely recognised

images of the islands is the world famous Tahitian dance

- The Otea.

The name Tahiti invokes many tales of legends, and lifetimes of daydreams! It is the largest island in the Windward group of French Polynesia, located in the archipelago of the Society

Islands in the southern Pacific Ocean, It is the economic, cultural and political centre of French Polynesia

Tahiti is estimated to have been colonised between 300 and 800 AD by settlers from Asia who drifted thousands of miles across the Pacific

The era of European exploration began in the 1500s, when Magellan spotted the atoll of Puka-Puka in 1521 which is now part of Tuamotu Archipelago.

In 1595,the Spanish explorer Mendaña visited Fatu Hiva Island in the Marquesas.

More than 170 years later, Captain Samuel Wallis and the H.M.S. Dolphin was the first to visit the island of Tahiti during his journey to discover “Terra Austral Incognita”, a mythical landmass

below the equator thought to balance the northern hemisphere. Wallis named the island of Tahiti “King George III Island” and claimed it for England - but soon after (and unaware of Wallis’ arrival) French navigator Louis-Antoine de Bougainville landed on

the opposite side of Tahiti and claimed it for the King of France – whoops!

(1) European fascination with the islands grew and grew as news spread through tales of

tropical beauty and the warm nature of the Tahitian people.

(2) Knowledge of Tahiti and the South Pacific continued to grow as Capt. James Cook (think that e have come across this fellow somewhere else haven’t we?!!)

brought back thousands of illustrations of Tahitian flora and fauna as well as the first

map of the islands of the Pacific.

(3) In the 1800s, it was the arrival of whalers, British missionaries, and French military expeditions who changed the way of life on

Tahiti forever and created a French-British rivalry for control of the islands. France emerged as the

colonial power by 1842

In 1847 Queen Pomare accepted the protection of

France

However, it wasn't until the hereditary leader, Pomare 5th,

abdicated his throne in 1880 (in exchange for a life’s pension for himself!) that France came to full

power in the region

In 1957, all the islands of Tahiti were reconstituted as the overseas French territory called French Polynesia. Since 1984, a statute of autonomy was implemented and, in 1998, French Polynesia became an overseas country with greater self-governing powers and their own Assembly and

President.

Tahiti - often called “The Island of Love” - has a population of around 178,000

and is the most populous island of French Polynesia, accounting for around 68% of the group's total

population

The island consists of two roughly round portions centred on volcanic

mountains, the north-western portion is known as Tahiti Nooeee (or Big Tahiti or Tahiti Nui) while the much smaller

south-eastern portion is known as Tahiti Eetteei (or Small Tahit, or Taiara-

Pu.

Tahiti Nui is heavily populated along the coast, especially around the capital

Papeete.

We docked at Quay D’honneur which was very convenient as it is virtually at the centre of the Town, the shopping area, the market, cathedral, post office and town hall

Yes, I have found the

Market on the map.....but let’s go and have a look around the Town first

At the Tourist Office we were

serenaded by a local group whilst

the coconut (what an

extremely useful nut this is!) bra’d

maidens prepared the

garlands

..and on the seafront were some really pleasant gardens

where (at night) local vendors set up mini-restaurants and local

musicians play

The early days of the Catholic Church in French Polynesia go back to 1834.

Established for over 30 years in Tahiti then in the Society Islands,

The Protestant missionaries were having a hard time bringing Christianity to these islands which is why Picpucian Fathers

Caret and Laval, chased away from Hawaii by the British in 1834, chose the Gambier Islands to settle in Polynesia. A cathedral

was then built on the island of Mangareva, probably the most beautiful of all

Polynesian islands.

Proud of their experience, while conflicts between Tahitians and colonists were

fading away, the Catholics finally landed in Tahiti and, in 1856, they built the Notre-Dame de Papeete Cathedral in Papeete

This imposing green roofed church (the Pao-Fai Church) is on the site of the first Protestant church, which was built in the early 19th century but reconstructed in 1981

The town hall – located on Paul Gaugin Street, just up from the quay - was built in 1990 and intended as a

replica of the old Queen's palace

Just one block inland from the centre of the waterfront, Claire found this colourful market – known locally as "Le Marche" – which, is in a sense, the heart of the city.

It has become a tourist and traveller's sightseeing favourite due to its brightly coloured vendors and attractive Tahitian products such as hats and Handbags, shell necklaces (and guess who

purchased one?!) and was a lovely place to visit – especially as the prices were fairly reasonable and it had a local group playing Tahitian tunes for us

We wandered among the many stands and displays and found such products as ripe fruits and vegetables, scented soaps,

vanilla beans, cakes and pies, fruit preserves, dancing costumes and clothing,

woven hats and bags

The market is on two floors including beautiful displays of orchids and a number of

(quite expensive compared to Bora Bora) stalls selling black pearls

The amazing Tahitian Black Pearl is called the King of the Pearls

This necklace looks nice......!

You did bring your wallet

with you didn't you?

...and Claire only purchased a flower for

her hair – see right hand side

On the outskirts of the town is the Bougainville Park, named after Louis-Antoine de Bougainville

The plant, bougainvillea, was also given his name after it

was first sighted in Brazil by a botanist travelling with de

Bougainville.

He was an early Pacific explorer who returned from Tahiti to

France with tales of the primitive people he had met on the island.

There were a number of tours on offer from the Ship and we chose “In Paul Gaugins footsteps” which, as well as the Gaugin Museum also took in the Museum of Tahiti and the Marae

Arahurahu

...we also

passed about 5 miles of Shanty Town

leading up to

Tahiti’s Airport

On the way the National Museum, we

passed alongside about 2 miles of beautiful

gardens and parkland

...and a lovely olde worlde shack

...some roadside shops

..and another type of “joint”

At La Pointe des Pecheurs (Fishermen’s Point) we stopped at the Museum of Tahiti and Her

Islands which is known to have one of the best collections in the Pacific.

This museum had not only a number of archaeological finds but, our Tour Guide (Lidia), helped us to gain an

impression of the island’s geology, its flora and fauna and to learn about the

culture and customs of ancient and modern Tahiti

Part of the Royal Pomare Dynasty of Tahiti

Cooking Pots “Missionaries for the use of”

An ancient Polynesian boat

..but look how it is all held together!

Some ancient Polynesian fishing pots for the “Algar

Boys” to copy!

Have you any idea what this was for? (it was about 12 ft long by the way)

No, it wasn't a canoe..................

.....it was for mixing flour for the village

There are hundreds of these Tikis on Tahiti and I think

that they originally came from Easter Island didn't they?

Come back again real

soon!

Going onto the Gauguin Museum we passed many different types

and styles of churches

We also passed a Noni producer (see green sheds and fields) which is a massage oil

...and also a roadside vendor selling fresh fish

(and yes, for a change it had decided to pour with rain!)

The highlight of the tour was “supposed” to be a visit to the Paul

Gauguin Museum – but unfortunately, it was very poorly

maintained (for example the room housing the carvings had no

electricity in it)

However, set in a tropical garden, this museum (which was/is dedicated to Gauguin's life in French Polynesia) was certainly worth a visit

Paul Gauguin (or Eugene Henri Paul Gauguin) was born in 1848 in Paris.

In his life he experienced bouts of depression and at one time attempted suicide, but it was his dream to find a tropical paradise, where he could 'live on fish and fruit' and paint in his increasingly primitive style.

Gauguin lived in Polynesia from June 1891 to August 1893, and again from August 1895 until May 1903 when he died in the Marquesas Island and where he is buried on Hiva Oa

The time he spent in Tahiti and the Marquesas, was the subject of much

interest both then and in modern times due to his alleged sexual exploits, as he

was known to have had trysts with several very young native girls, some of

whom appear as subjects of his paintings.

A self Portrait

The famous sketch by Gauguin

Gauguin by Picasso and Picasso by

Gauguin

A model of Gauguin’s Tahitian House

Unfortunately no major works of art are kept here, as they are prized possessions of galleries around the world – particularly in St Petersburg’s Hermitage Museum.

Also (unfortunate for him) he didn't get a chance to paint that young maiden under the tree!

Views from the garden

Our final stop was the Marae of Arahurahu

On the way there we passed some quaint little villages and a huge great

nursery

Situated in a pretty little valley the Marae of Arahurahu is the only one that has been fully restored in the whole of Polynesia and is Tahiti's best example of an ancient Royal Polynesian

temple and meeting place

On the way back to the Ship we passed some

lovely scenery

..and a selection of “buildings”

I wonder if Barry has sorted out the greenhouses at Riddiford Yet?

I wonder what he has got to

photograph now?

Doesn't he know that it is

time to Buckle up and sail for The

Marquesas Islands?!

Hey Ray, with three days at sea and plenty to do in the evenings, you had better service your camera – it is taking fuzzy pictures right

now

Smart a***

American

!

Tropical Night

20 Mar 2012

The hip shaking was so fast that the camera couldn't keep up with it –

even at high speed

Go Claire –

GO!!

She was

fabulous and

we have

made her an

honoury

Team

Member

21Mar 2012

You are too late Ray –

this seat is taken!!

22 Mar 2012