I want to start a topic which can be interesting for you guys.

Now my garage floor is ready, I will jack up my 964 next week for the 100000 kilometre service I bought the parts this week, all filters, spark plugs, brake pads front and rear. Valve cover gaskets because of the valve adjustment and also I bought Mobil synthetic gearbox oil. I need to replace the oil pressure sender because it does strange things, and leaks oil and I also plan to replace the gasket from the cover on top of the engine which is also the spot where the engine ventilation hose is connected. Also my secondary muffler needs to be welded; it was broken by the engine vibrations I think. My question is, Does some body wants to have any pictures from special places on the car? Ask, and I will see what I can do. This topic could run for a while, because a have to do a lot of work on the car. So please have patience when my answer will not come the same day. I try to post as many pictures as I can. So, as soon as I start, I will post a few pictures from the car jacked up in the air and we will see what happens.

NOTE: Please be aware of the danger that could occur by non-professional repairs of the brakes. If you don't trust yourself, let somebody professional carry out these repairs. I drove the car into the garage tonight,

I think the floor is 100% ok now. So,........I think I make a start this weekend with jacking up the car and start to work on the service and repair session. I let you guys know how the progress is. The oil leak starts to show it self very much, the secondary muffler is full of oil right now and so is the undertray . The top of the engine it completely wet from leaking oil near the oil pressure sender, I cleaned it a few weeks ago completely with brake cleaner, but it full of oil again........ It's a leak near the oil pressure sender, all the top of the sender area is fully wet with fresh oil, and when I drive a while and park the car after that, the next day there is oil on the street...... I bought an oil pressure sender, engine ventilation hose and the gasket for the cover who is on top of the engine. So that should be all possible causes. I made a start last night working on the car. I removed the catalytic converter, cup pipe and secondary muffler. All the plates [heat shields] around the cat I removed also, I had to drill all the bolts, too much oxidation. So, I noticed the cat had a crack which I need to weld, also the same for the secondary muffler. Probably track use brings more vibrations then you think and lets things break. The oil leak is pretty bad, this means all the oil from the top of the engine fell down on the undertray and sprayed around on the exhaust and crank case.

Here are the first series of pictures of the start from the 100000 km service. The first one is from the car on jack stands to see how much space you need under the car to work.

Here one from a different angle

Starting with removing the wheels and put all the wheel nuts back on. Then start to remove the undertray from the engine and also remove the tray under the gearbox. This gives you a lot of space to work under there. Next is the removal from primary [cup pipe] muffler, secondary muffler and catalytic converter. I removed all the heat shields also because I suspect a crack in the cat. Note: the bolts from the heat shield could give you some problems. If the nut starts to spin, drill the bolt heads off. Buy new nuts, no problem.

So, here are the collected parts I removed under there. This includes also the side board near the valve head covers [lower ones]

After drilling a few bolts from the cat heat shields, I removed the 02 sensor. I want to replace it. It is not a part of the service, it's extra.

A picture of the inside of the catalytic converter. Mine still is fine.

Now I start to remove the air flow meter to get access to the oil pressure sender. First remove the air filter cover and air filter itself. Then remove the Idle control valve, which is located on top of the intake manifold [silver coloured with two hoses connected] to get access to the nut who holds the a wiring harness. Remove the Air flow meter by removing 2 nuts in the lower part of the area where the air filter fits. NOTE: these are nuts which are also rubber brackets who could spin while un-tighten them. Please use a small vice grip to hold them against spinning. There is a big hose clamp on the left side of the air flow meter, open it. Then remove the bolt that holds the wiring harness on top of the air flow meter. Now you can remove the meter carefully. Put some paper in the intake area for against dirt and stuff.

Removed.......

And here is the oil pressure sender area

Then I removed the engine ventilation hose, one of the oil leak suspects....

The hose is very hard and cracked, so I think this is the oil leak I have. We'll see........ This hose is on the left side next to the oil pressure sender.

Yes, you can remove the sender by removing only the air flow meter! NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE!!!!!

First time Do it your selfers should place the Jack stands under the regular jack stand spots!!! I did it this way to have more space to work for my self. I want to show the places where I put my jack stands. Note: My jack stands are safe for those spots I choose because of a curve on top of the stand, so it’s very stable. I did this because my jack is not low enough to reach the right spots under the car. Also I have more space for my ' roller bed ' where I transport myself under the car.

This is the spot on the rear side [NOT THE NORMAL JACK SPOT]

From a different angle The ones in the front, no possible movement to whatever direction. The jack stands are closed up in the sub frame.

NOTE: Never use FLAT jack stands over here, I mean flat on top so they could possible slip under there.

These are the NORMAL jack positions under the car which is recommended to use always! The front side:

And on the back side of the car.............. Please note that I did it a different way because it is my choice and comfortable to me. Otherwise I recommend the original spots!!!

I found some time this afternoon to work on the car. First I replaced the gasket from the aluminium cover which connects the engine ventilation hose to the engine. It's placed in the middle on top of the engine near the oil pressure sender. I did not trust the gasket, but it was o.k. after replacing it. The old one wasn't broke. I didn't know what my oil leak was, so I ordered it also. Please be very careful that nothing falls in to the engine if you ever should replace the gasket!!! I noticed that the nuts where loose from the bracket who holds the cable for the throttle valve to the gas pedal. It's placed on the back side of the intake manifold. I could turn them by hand. Please check them anyway, it's easy to do.

This is the hose which was broke and the gasket that was o.k. Replaced because of the oil leak I have.

After that I replaced the fuel filter. Please be careful with that, and be sure you double check the connections after replacing. Please use tissues to absorb the fuel which comes out the filter.

BE SURE THAT YOUR BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A second picture

The 3rd,

PLEASE MARK THE CONNECTIONS WITH PAINT AFTER TIGHTENING THEM!

Now I start to drain all the oil from the engine, tank and gear box. First make a small 5 mm hole in the top of your oil filter before replacing it. This is for some air into the filter, for the oil that will go back to the tank, otherwise all the oil from the filter will drain in the engine bay............... Then drain the oil tank, on the right rear side just in front of your rear wheel. Some WATER will come first.................. THIS IS NORMAL!!!!

Then drain the engine. Please clean the small magnet which is in the drain plug

.

Now I drain the gearbox, I want to make a oil change on the gear box too.

Now we come to the nicest work from today, cleaning the oil filter area.......................................

Please turn then new filter with your hands, no tools allowed!!!!!!! Some brake cleaner will help cleaning that area, please use also compressed air for drying the area. Yes I did use plenty of paper

in the picture before, it's never enough............

Please secure the floor with some plastic, you will need it!!!!

I have the tool to replace the oil pressure sender, so I will do that tonight. It's like a wrench who's head is cut off. No space for a normal wrench 24 mm metric. After that, I start to remove the valve head covers for the adjustment of the valves. Tonight I replaced the oil pressure sender. I made a tool my self for replacing the sender. With a little patience everything is possible.

As you see, the new one is placed. Please take care nothing falls in the hole of the sender when you have it out.

Now we come to the valve area. Please remove all the dirt around the valve head covers. Remove all the spark plug cables and tight them with some ty raps. Then unscrew the nuts from the covers.

REMOVE THE VALVE HEAD COVERS ONLY BY HAND, USE NO SCREW DRIVER. USE A

SMALL PLASTIC HAMMER WHEN IT GOES HARD.

GIVE A FEW SOFT BUMPS AGAINST THE SIDE OF THE COVERS. The upper valve head covers needs to be cleaned very well because some dirt can fall in the valve train area. Before removing the spark plugs, use some air to remove dirt out of that area.

Then remove the spark plugs.

NOW WE COME TO THE NUMBER 6 SPARK PLUG WHO EVERYBODIES FEAR AND HATED PLUG.

GUYS, ........NO PROBLEM, TAKE IT FROM BELOW WITH THE RIGHT TOOL. SEE FOR YOUR SELF.....................

A normal spark plug tool will do the job easily.............

Be sure you clean the spark plug holes with air before removing them completely!!

As you see, there is plenty room to work. So, this is

it for today.

I went to my advisor yesterday, looked for the cause of a leak. We think it is one or two rocker arm axles on the left side. I have to remove the axles and polish the head surface where the axles are resting with a fine sand paper 400 and use a special liquid gasket for engines. Use some on one side of the head surface end push the rocker arm axle back in and then on the last I have to put some gasket material on the last part of the axle, so there will no gasket material near the rocker or any oil canal. This gasket material is special because it will not block the axles from oil canals. Only places without oxygen will maximal protected by the liquid gasket. And....the axles can be removed also after a few years without any problems. I asked 3 engine re-builders, who all said, yes we know of this problem and do I all that way and one said, I order always special seal rings from the United States which fit in the rim of the axles. It takes too long to order these, so I will choose for the first option. The promised pics from today. 3 axles where leaking! I did them all. Removed the whole family, and worked bit by bit to the end........ First the oil leak, good and visible on the leak trace powder.

Leak as seen from under the car

Here you see how much oil came between the axle [shaft] and the head.............. Cleaning all the surfaces and shafts, polish the surfaces, and degrease everything.

Tonight we can go and replace the bolts and nuts. How do we do that??? Easier then it looks in the first place, just remove all the rocker arms and replace the bolts and nuts. Rotate the camshaft so far it doesn’t push the rocker up, remove the Allen bolt and nut , clean 1 side of the rocker axle before pushing it back thru the tunnel and .......yes, the rocker comes out easy! I removed all the rockers for security reasons and checked all the bolts and nuts. 7 OUT OF 12 WHERE STRETCHED!!!! NOT USING THE RIGHT TORQUE CAUSES THIS!!!!!!! I will replace all 12 pieces, so I will have that "safe" feeling again.

The bolts are stretched under the nut, so you will not see that, only feel it when you turn the rotate the nut during adjusting the valves. It feels very heavy, and will not turn smoothly. Clean all the materials very good and oil them against rust. Before putting back, please work very cleanly!!!!!!!!!

All of the rockers and the adjusters after being cleaned and oiled ready for re-assembly and valve adjustment.

Next we start to cure an oil leak that was spotted before, and reassemble the new adjusters and rockers. Before resetting the valve adjustment

Gasket in the surface where the shaft leaks. NEVER put gasket on the whole shaft, the rocker will block and will get no oil..........

At last, the end of the shaft will be getting some gasket. This is the only way not to get any gasket in the oil system. The gasket I use will give no problems if it should come into the oil, only the parts where oxygen is gone will be harder.

The gasket is a engine re-builders choice, such as Loctite. It can last high engine temps, precise data I have to ask. The Material works where oxygen is gone, and will seal off that area. All the excess gasket will stay soft and "if" there should come some gasket in the oil system, then it will not block any oil circuit area. It works in a minute for a pressure, and after 5 hours it will last a 5 bar pressure. In 12 hour is 100% o.k.

After checking all bolts, I will do the valve adjustment. I always mark things, In case I have to go somewhere during a job......

After all the rockers reworked, I put some oil on all of them. The first rotations the camshaft and rockers [degreased] will not have oil from the engine it self, that's why I put some oil everywhere.

Tonight I started to adjust the valves. First clean the spark plug holes with air before removing the spark plugs. Rotate the crankshaft by turning the fan pulley. If slip is there, please push on the v-belt, this will help to give some traction. Now rotate the crankshaft till the first valve to adjust is out of tension. This will happen if the rocker arm is on the ground circle from the crankshaft. Now you can measure the play [needs to be 0,10 mm on all valves] If play is ok, check the adjust nut if it's tight enough. If yes, please mark with paint marker. So you will never forget something.

You must first find TDC for Cylinder no: 1, then it’s a case of rotating the crank 120o for each cylinder in turn, just follow the firing order.

If you need to adjust the valve, please un-tighten the nut, and turn with a screw driver

the bolt a little to the left. Tight the nut again, and check the play. If not o.k., repeat

again. Then tighten the nut very well and mark it with a paint marker. Done.... Go to

the next available valve You can adjust ALL the valves from the lower engine area.

No adjustment needed in the engine bay.

Made a pic. of the tool part number which should be used if you want to adjust the valves

PLEASE TAKE YOUR TIME TO ADJUST THE VALVES, WHY RUSH, BE

PATIENT!!!!!

Please clean the valve head covers very well with brake cleaner. Inside

and outside before putting them back on the cylinder heads. Please look if every gasket is fitted well in

the cover, and clean also the cylinder head surfaces very well.

First thing I did is the 12 spark plugs. Put some copper grease on the threads and turn screw them in the engine by hand as far as possible. The rest with

the wrench.

Then I installed the gaskets in the valve head covers and installed the covers on the engine.

After the cover installation, place the mud shields and then the spark plug wires. Done..........

Today we start with the brakes on the rear side.

Start to disconnect the overflow hose on the brake

fluid container, and put it in a bottle the catch the wasted fluid when you push your

brake pads back in 'new pads position'.

Please be careful with the brake fluid, it damage your paint when it

should leak on the fender/wing .

For the rear brakes. Remove the two Allen bolts out of the calliper. One bolt is hidden

behind the rear axle. Then push back the pads so you can move

the calliper of the disk.

Remove the spacer if you have it on the car; otherwise just remove the rotor/disk. Behind the disk there is the often forgotten hand brake which needs also service Remove the pads by release the spring in the calliper and push the pads out. Could go the hard way, but please be careful for the rubber "condoms" on the inside of the calliper [4]

Please remove the safety clip on the brake fluid line which it placed on thee rear axle where the brake fluid line connects to the brake fluid hose.

This is to allow for more space to move the calliper around. Please hang the calliper on a ty rap and don't damage the brake fluid line!!!!!!

Same procedure on the front side, here you have to remove two normal bolts. Also remove the clip on the brake fluid line for more space. If you want to remove the rotors, remove the two Philips head screws, and give it a bang with the hammer on the flat side between the wheel bolts. It will come off easy.

PLEASE BE CAREFULL THAT YOU DON'T HIT THE WHEEL BOLTS! On my car two where damaged already, so I have to get new ones.

My brake pads are really worn out, I will place two new sets, original Porsche parts. Also the new cable [8] for the thickness sensors. Please clean all the items very well, and make it rust free. The use grease for the hand brake area and spray the rotors after had some work done with sand paper, with zinc spray, They will get the nice grey look. Only the NON BRAKEPAD AREA needs to be sprayed. Also clean the wheel bolts and nuts with brake cleaner and give them a copper grease after.

Did some things today, Install the pad wear indicators [shown as red cables] on all the callipers. The

old ones broke when I removed them

I started a other topic about the difficulties I had with the pads which were difficult to fit, due mainly to corrosion build up under the guide plate. Here is a 'decoration' calliper which shows a clear spot of the 'problem area' Rust between the guide plate and the calliper pushes up the guide plate and so the pads needs to be 'modified' by removing the paint or more........ Then put enough copper grease on the pads sides.

WHEN THE PADS NEED TO BE REPLACED, PLEASE

REMOVE THE CLIP ALSO, NO DAMAGE TO THE

BRAKE FLUID LINE THEN. I got a nice one from De Bock

Porsche parts.

Yesterday I worked just 2 hours on the car, worked on the brake disks and the spacers. Renewed them by polishing them with a 'sand paper tool' which you can use on a air drill tool. When the rust and dirt is gone, clean them with paint thinners, and spray them with zinc spray which is grey coloured. Only

the surfaces that will not be contacted by the pads. You can always remove the brake pad contact surface with sand paper later, after spraying. I sprayed them outside and inside, also the hand brake

pads surface on the inside from the rear disks.

I found some time in the afternoon doing some things on the car. I prepared the handbrake, lubricated it and adjusted it. Please check if the handbrake adjust system works well by rotating the shown little wheel. Please oil the system, so it will work still in two years.

Please adjust the handbrake with the disk placed. This is possible through the big hole on the front side in the disk. Use a flash light and a screw driver to rotate the little wheel. Make the handbrake handle adjustment inside the car under the handbrake handle. Please clean the contact surfaces of the disk and wheel bolt unit very well. Otherwise you will have a imbalance in the brake disk after you’re done.

In the front brake area there are two shields that will keep the water of the disk which could come from

under the car. Mine where corroded, so I prepared them and painted them black again. Easy to do.

When I refresh the brake fluid, I will use a DOT 4 brake fluid, and use a pressure bleeder. It's easy to do by your self, and like this way you don't damage the brake master cylinder. If you use your feet and

use the pedals to refresh the brake fluid, don't push the brake pedal to the bottom! This will damage your internal seals. The seals will come into area's where corrosion is, the master cylinder piston never

comes that far out in normal brake procedure.. Then I started to refresh the brake and clutch fluid.

I placed the bleeder on the brake fluid container

Please block the overflow line as I show here.

and put the line in a bottle. Pressure on the system, and refresh from all the callipers the fluid, one after the other. These are 8 drain screws!!! If you are finished, check all the drain plugs to see if they are tight

enough. Use a clear hose for drain, you can see that eventually all the air in the system, and the

brightness of the fluid that comes out.

Then find your way under the car............ drain the clutch cylinder.

Use a lot of &##^!(T#&(^!^@&#!)#)!)@#)*(!) words to get there and refresh the

clutch fluid. I did the fluid almost 2 years ago, and it was still clear, also the clutch part. I drove a few times on the

Nordschleife, and the brakes where very hot, no problems with boiling then, I use DOT 4 brake fluid for

ordinary road cars.

Clutch drain plug. Use 7 mm metric mini wrench

After you are done, please fill the container to the maximum mark. Clean the container

area from any brake fluid.

I had some time extra today, so I started to install the air flow meter and the air filter Please double check the nuts which hold the air flow meter inside!!! Spray the connectors you can reach, spray them

inside with electric grease for weather protection.

I installed the idle control valve back into place, you have to remove it if you want to remove the air flow meter.

There is a screw which holds a wiring harness. You have to remove that screw, It's easier when you

remove the ICV first.

Connecting the wires

Protect the soldered joint against water

And also the one million Dollars bolts and speed nuts.............. Made a extra ground for the o2 sensor, for a better response

Please be sure the alignment of the exhaust is fine, then tight all the bolts, and done...... Here the ground cable connection to the body. This way is the easiest and without drilling.

Be sure the steel rings will sit o.k. double check and

then tight the tension clamps.

As you see, the exhaust is fine again. I will fill up the gear box tomorrow, double check some things, and hopefully the engine runs fine tomorrow...........

Today, was my last day for the service on the car. I started to place the wheels, the 17 Inch CUP for test driving. After that I will place the winter wheels, the 16 Inch. After installing the wheels I checked the drive belts for the fan and alternator. They where ok. My ignition distributor I don't check, he is almost

new, and so are the caps and rotors from the ignition.

I lubricated the door hold ups and the rest of the door's and hoods that need some grease

This morning I refreshed a part of the power steering fluid. I sucked a 1/4 litre out of the container for the fluid, next to the oil filter. A 1/4 litre of fresh Dextron 2 fluid will clean the rest of the oil in the

system. Next week I will do the procedure a second time. So I refresh the system without unscrew any parts. It works fine.

And so ends the Arjan 100,000K service,

My Thanks to Arjan B for letting me create this, For John D for letting me rip the site to bits and to Garrett for the additional pictures of the Brake bleeding kit.

Kevin. aka Warmfuzzies