Everything is bigger in Texas—especially the portion sizes. On my recent visit to Dallas, I nearly overdosed on Texas-sized plates of food as I ate my way around the city. But one thing is for sure, each meal was delicious and reminiscent of down-home, lovingly cooked meals that are satisfying for more reasons than because they fill your stomach.

Aside from a goosebump-inducing mole sauce at the Mexican joint Mesa Maya and authentic, mouth-watering barbecue from Lockhart Smokehouse, I found my way to one of the city’s newest and most noteworthy spots for modern Texan cuisine—out Dallas chef Stephan Pyles’ Stampede 66. It hit precisely on all points of what I think any traveler craves—and expects—when traveling to the heart of Texas. As soon as you step foot in the restaurant, you’re overtaken by aromas of homestyle cookin’ that will quickly have your stomach rumbling in appreciation.

What else is evident from Chef Pyles’ award-winning, created-from-scratch restaurants—and even from the use of his talents in the kitchen to combat hunger in the community at large—is that the chef who has been dubbed one of the founding fathers of Southwestern cuisine has a deep passion for his home state. Among dishes like honey-fried chicken and biscuits, Freeto-chili pie and butterscotch pudding, it’s clear that the

cookbook author-world traveler-celebrity chef’s latest recipe for success puts the Lonestar State center stage. As he proudly states on the menu: “When I was growing up in West Texas, my uncle had a sticker on the back window of his Ford pick-up truck that read ‘Made in Texas by Texans.’ While I came to believe that was probably not true, I have made every effort to make that slogan a reality through the procurement of ingredients on this menu.”

Between bites we got the chance to chat with the acclaimed tried-and-true Texan chef, who’s been doing incredible and scrumptious things for Dallas’ food scene since 1983, about Stampede 66 and where exactly he gets the inspiration for his culinary creations. So just go ahead and make plans now to loosen that oversized belt buckle you’ll inevitably end up purchasing when you get there.

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Fried Chicken & Biscuits: Chef Stephan Pyles Takes Us into the Kitchen

by Aaron Drake

I definitely enjoyed the comfort foods at Stampede 66. Is there something you set out to accomplish with the down-home feel of the restaurant and menu?

The restaurant and the food are really inspirations from my childhood experiences both at the Phillips 66 Truck Stop Café and at-home environment with my extended family. Stampede 66 is what my truck stop café would have looked and felt like had I had taste, control and money at the age of 10. I think I am giving Dallas the food they really want to eat.

We noticed the interior of Stampede blends perfectly with the menu choices. (We especially love the wall of actual Texas city names.) Where in the process of creating a new restaurant concept does the layout of the restaurant factor into your planning—does it factor into the menu or come to you afterwards?

For me, the creative process starts with an idea then radiates out to all the components inherent in restaurant conceptualization and execution. The functional space—the architecturals, the interiors, the lighting—as well as the graphics, the music, the tabletops, menu and beverage lists are all developed with the central theme clearly in mind. In this case it was a “bigger than life” Texas experience featuring comfort food, Southern hospitality and a wine list that categorizes wine from anywhere other than Texas as imports (including California). I have a saying that hospitality was created in the South and perfected in Texas.

I did feel right at home. So where do you find you get the inspiration for your dishes?

Each restaurant is different. My travels often inspire my menus, but at Stampede 66 the inspiration really was the food of my childhood and the foods of Texas. There are as many as 25 ethnic and cultural influences that have molded Texas cuisine, so there’s a lot to be inspired by. Classic Southern, Mexican and cowboy, or range cooking, are the most predominant styles of cooking here.

Which dish do you recommend that diners absolutely must try at Stampede 66?

When asked what my last supper meal would be, I quickly answer honey-fried chicken with buttermilk biscuits.

That was what I ordered off the menu! Any surprising or interesting stories behind how any of the current dishes made its way onto the menu?

I wanted to do a classic barbecued brisket but also wanted to modernize it, so I kept the traditional methods of dry marinating for 24 hours but then cold-smoking it over hickory for 24 hours. Then I cook the brisket in sous-vide for 72 hours at 141 degrees, which makes an incredible tender product but keeps a bit of rosy color in the center.

Delicious. Tell us, do you have a personal favorite restaurant in Dallas or even a guilty pleasure that you’re willing to share?

I have to promote my protégés: FT33 by Matt McCallister and Smoke by Tim Byers.

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Aaron Drake is Executive Editor of Gaycation Magazine. He has contributed to The Advocate, Out Traveler, Man About World and Amtrak Ride With Pride. When he’s not writing and traveling the globe, you can find him remodeling his house with his hubby or playing with his two mischievous

dogs. Follow his travels and travails on Twitter and Instagram at @theaarondrake. Share your travels with us at editor@gaycationmagazine.com.

You mentioned your travels—we know you’ve been around the world tasting cuisine. Are there any countries or particular foods that you just can’t seem to forget?

I go to Peru and Spain at least once a year. I’ve been to Spain twice already this year. I was blown away last month by the food in Shanghai.

Do you have anything up your sleeve that you can share with us, whether it be a new dish you’re working on or upcoming restaurant changes?

I’m moving my flagship [restaurant Stephan Pyles in the Dallas Arts District] to a dynamic location across from the Symphony Hall and Opera House later this year when my 10-year lease is up at the current location. I think of it as my “swan song” for luxury restaurants.

Sounds incredible and reason enough to make a trip back soon. Lastly, what would you share with LGBT travelers who come to Dallas to make the most of their visit?

After eating at my restaurants, of course, they must go to the “Crossroads” on Cedar Springs where Dallas’ gay culture began. In particular, they need to visit The Roundup. It’s almost surreal to see hundreds of decked out cowboys two-stepping and doing the Cotton-Eyed Joe in tandem.

You’ll find us two-stepping the night away!

Stampede66.com

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