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TEXTILES TRENDS 2019-2020December 2018
CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION
2. SUMMER TRENDS
a. PRINTS & PATTERNS
b. COLOURS
3. FALL/WINTER TRENDS
a. MATERIALS
b. SHAPES
c. COLOURS
© Copyright ASL 2018 *source: https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/sustainability/oeko-tex-survey-reveals-consumer-concerns-textile-production-74028/
Back to Nature
The big textile trend standing out for 2019 is the affinity for natural materials. Natural fibres, rustic materials and ‘craft fashion’ showcased at recent trade fairs celebrates Mother Nature in all her unspoiled glory. The desire to go ‘back to basics’ taps into a wider trend towards simplicity in consumer behaviour. The promotion of sustainable materials and garments produced through ethical practices remain at the forefront of consumers’ minds. Key themes include:
COLOURS GETTING WARMER – DEEP, WARM COLOURS ARE EVERYWHEREEPXERIMENTAL USE OF COLOUR AND PATTERNS
WRINKLED, UNDULATING TEXTURES & PATTERNSRUSTIC, ‘BACK TO NATURE’ FEEL, USING FABRICS WITH NATURAL IMPERFECTIONS
DENIM RE-DISCOVERED – SUSTAINABLE DENIM IS BECOMING A PRIORITY
INTRODUCTION
TEXTILES TRENDS SUMMER 19
© Copyright ASL 2018
SUMMERTRENDS 19
PRINTS & PATTERNS
© Copyright ASL 2018
TEXTILES TRENDS SUMMER 19
MODERN MARINER
WORLDTRIBE TRAVELLER
DARK FLORALS
KITSCH 1980s
COUNTRY CONVERSATIONALS
TOILE DE JOUY PRINTS
KEY PRINT & PATTERNS
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TEXTILES TRENDS SUMMER 19
KEY PRINT & PATTERNS
PALM BEACH NIGHTS
CUTOUT PHOTO
PSYCHEDELIC DYES
SAFARI CAMO
PYJAMA STRIPES
ALL-OVER SCENIC
ALL-OVER BRANDING
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SUMMERTRENDS 19
COLOURS
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KEY COLOURS
SUNNY YELLOW12-0643TCX
BLUE CADET15-4225TCX
RIOT RED19-1757TCX
RUBBER PLANT19-0230TCX
LUPIN LILAC15-3620TCX
TEXTILES TRENDS SUMMER 19
© Copyright ASL 2018
Common Ground
Common Ground features warm colours with an underlying lightness,which makes them feel richer and more luxurious. Earthy tones anchorthe palette, ranging from the luminous yellow of Marigold to the tanbrown of Roasted Pecan and the deeper hues of Iron Red and WildAubergine, and these are offset by leafy and aquatic tones such asRubber Plant, Filtered Aqua and Deep Water. These are colours thatfeel familiar, comforting and connecting, offering broad appeal acrossmarkets and categories.
TEXTILES TRENDS SUMMER 19
PALETTE COLOURS
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In Touch
In Touch is a varied and versatile palette, with a range of tones thatsoothe and offer a sense of clarity, and others that energize andawaken the senses. Oyster Pink and Frosted Lavender sit at the calmerend of the spectrum, while Adrenaline Red and Psychedelic Pink havean enlivening effect. Pastels such as Glacier Mint and Buttermilk have alightness that is almost luminous, while Ripe Maroon, Grounded Greenand Ink introduce depth. These various colour families can be usedalone, or combined to create dynamic contrasts.
TEXTILES TRENDS SUMMER 19
PALETTE COLOURS
© Copyright ASL 2018
Creative Manifesto
The Creative Manifesto palette features colours that are bold enoughto stand on their own, or can be combined to make a powerfulstatement. Riot Red, Energy Yellow and Sky Azure have an almostchildlike simplicity that is refreshing, and can be complemented andbalanced by the more nuanced tones of Shifting Sand and RawTerracotta. Greens are also key in this collection, ranging from themuted military tones of Forest Utility and Burlap Green to the morepunchy hues of Ivy Green and Celeriac.
TEXTILES TRENDS SUMMER 19
PALETTE COLOURS
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FALL.WINTER 2019.20
FALL.WINTERTRENDS 19
CONCEPTS
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TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
MATERIALS
POLYURETHANE
Fibre background: also referred to as Spandex, polyurethane is asynthetic polymer developed by IG Farben in Germany in 1937, thenreiterated over 20 years by chemical companies DuPont, BASF andDow Chemical. Most polyurethanes are thermosetting polymers thatdon't melt under heat, although thermoplastic polyurethanes arealso available. Polyurethane is most commonly blended with nylonand polyester in covered yarn or knitted and woven applications.Polyurethane is also used as a fabric coating on synthetic bases.Eco credentials: polyurethane is not biodegradable. However, bio-derived Spandex by Invista have a lower impact as renewable, naturalresources are used as raw materials. Oils used in the preparationpolyols for more eco polyurethanes include soybean, cotton or neemseed and castor.Fiber properties:– High stretch, durability and wrinkle resistant– Waterproof when applied as a fabric coatingApplications: apparel textiles, accessories, home furnishings,cushioning foam, building insulation, vegan leather
INNOVATION & SUSTAINABILITY
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TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
MATERIALS
ACETATE
Fiber background: cellulose acetate fiber is one of the earliestsynthetic fibers based on cotton or tree pulp, created when cellulosereacts with acids. Fine cellulose acetate filaments are extruded inacetone. Acetate has been replaced by cheaper petro-based fiberssuch as nylon and polyester in recent decades.Eco credentials: acetate fiber production requires extensive chemicaland water processing which has a negative environmentalimpact. Naia by Eastman is making headway into reducing suchimpact, sourcing wood pulp from sustainably managed forests andproduction towards a closed-loop process. Cupro, a cotton-basedcellulosic fiber by Asahi Kasei also has biodegradable properties andfocuses on low-impact production.Fiber properties:– Excellent drape, softness and silky sheen– Shrink, moth and mildew resistant– Takes dye well, high colour fastnessApplications: apparel textiles and trims, apparel linings, homefurnishings
INNOVATION & SUSTAINABILITY
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TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
MATERIALS
VISCOSE, RAYON & LYOCELL
Fiber background: viscose, rayon and Lyocell are regeneratedcellulosic fibers made from wood pulp through processes involvingvarying chemical compositions. While similar in composition, thefibers differ in characteristics due to filament structure and variousmanufacturing processes.Eco credentials: while all three fibers are fully biodegradable, rawmaterial sourcing and varying production methods affect thesustainable credentials of each fiber. In comparison to viscose,Lyocell uses non-toxic chemicals during production and uses a closed-loop process, lowering environmental impacts. Lenzing are fore-runners in the production of sustainable cellulosics, committed tousing wood from renewable sources and dramatic water reduction.Innovations include Tencel™ Luxe and Refibra™.Fiber properties:– Soft handle and excellent drape– High tensile strengthApplications: apparel textiles and trims, accessories, interior textiles
INNOVATION & SUSTAINABILITY
© Copyright ASL 2018
TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
MATERIALS
POLYESTER & NYLON
Fiber background: polyester and polyamide were developed mid20th century. Both are polymer fibers, chemically formulated, knownas synthetics, and without any natural source of fiber. They areinexpensive, durable and easy care. Nylon is branded DuPontpolyamide.Eco credentials: polyester/polyamide are not sustainable norbiodegradable. Production uses nitrous oxide – a potent gas – andlarge amounts of water and energy. Recycling is the best route, withthe activewear industry jumping on board with recycledpolyesters. Econyl has developed an eco-friendly nylon made fromrecycled plastics, while Ploucquet offers developments of recycledand recyclable polyester.Fiber properties: Polyester– Moisture resistant, quick dry and wicking, lightweightFiber properties: Polyamide– Highly absorbent, dries more slowly– Softer hand-feel than polyesterApplications: apparel textiles, hosiery, accessories
INNOVATION & SUSTAINABILITY
© Copyright ASL 2018
MATERIALS
ORGANIC COTTON
Fiber background: with a history tracing back thousands of years,cotton represents a large proportion of fibers used for apparel andnon-apparel textiles worldwide. Cotton is a natural cellulosic fiber,grown in warm climates across the globe, including China, India, US,Pakistan, Uzbekistan and Turkey. Cotton balls are extracted and spuninto yarns.Eco credentials: relying on huge amounts of water for cultivation andproduction, cotton does not fare well in sustainability. Harmfulpesticides and chemicals in cotton production is detrimental tohealth of workers and eco-systems. However, organic cotton farmingeliminates pesticides and reduces extensive water use, offering amore eco-positive solution. Certification bodies suchas BCI and GOTS offer eco-assurance on cotton. CottonIncorporated is a trade organization that promotes US cotton andsustainable information.Fibre properties:– High heat resistance, washable and easy care– Absorbant and comfortableApplications: apparel, accessories, interior textiles, hygiene
INNOVATION & SUSTAINABILITY
TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
© Copyright ASL 2018
TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
MATERIALS
RECYCLED TECH
Sustainable tech fabrics feature recycled materials heavily. Recycled synthetics offer the strength and functional flexibility essential to the sports sector, while reducing the needto produce new materials. Membrane mesh looks from Ploucquet are produced using 100% recycled materials in conditions that ensure the material is fully recyclable at end ofuse. Developments shown by Santoni reveal innovative techniques to tackle sustainability from a number of angles. Seamless knitting technology engineers garments andaccessories without the need for seaming and reducing waste, while using closed loop and recycled fibers for optimum sustainable qualities.
INNOVATION & SUSTAINABILITY
© Copyright ASL 2018
TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
MATERIALS
COSY ORGANICS
As organic cotton ditches harmful chemicals and pesticides, benefits include pollution reduction, supported biodiversity and water reduction. The natural softness of cottonworks well for brushed and fleece fabrics with a cosy feel. Marl jerseys from Ecological Textiles combine flax and organic cotton, benefitting from the low impact of hemp. Otherblended variations include organic cotton and recycled polyester mixes from Lebenskeidung. Look for the GOTS certification to ensure the organic status of textiles throughoutthe supply chain, as well as OE 100 and OE Blended certifications when sourcing organic cotton.
INNOVATION & SUSTAINABILITY
© Copyright ASL 2018
TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
3D PRINTED TEXTILES
Combining design and technology.
INNOVATION & SUSTAINABILITY
© Copyright ASL 2018
FALL.WINTER 2019.20
FALL.WINTERTRENDS 19
SHAPES
© Copyright ASL 2018
TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
Fall/Winter 19.20 tilts towards form over function, with expressive styles and exaggerated details. Glamour and drama return, especially in fitness styles, where self-expression isall. This is tempered by the emergence of modesty wear and styles with more coverage. Functional design informs everyday staples, with styles that respond to physical andemotional needs.
KEY POINTS
Self expression: anything goes, as a new wave of ‘fitness freaks’ challenge clichés and create edgier, personalized looks for the gym.Allclusive design: styles cater for all, irrespective of gender, race or size. Growing demand in Asia and the Middle East drives modesty active wear.Over-exaggeration: pick a detail and blow it up. Exaggeration is key and used to update core styles.Glamour returns: this is a season for drama and glamour. Eveningwear and 1980s influences are key.
ACTIVE WEAR
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TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
ACTIVE WEAR
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TEXTILES TRENDS FW19.20
ACTIVE WEAR
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FALL.WINTER 2019.20
FALL.WINTERTRENDS 19
COLOURS
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FALL.WINTER 2019.20
FREE STYLEFree Style is an expressive, youthful trend that offers a pick-and-remix take on global subcultures. It sees a new wave of fitness outsiders and minority groups recast health and wellness in theirown image, with a strong focus on play, creativity, dressing up, and radical self-expression.
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FALL.WINTER 2019.20
PURPOSE FULLPurpose Full prizes designs with a sense of meaning and authenticity, and focuses on retro-influenced colours, which are updated with a modern sharpness. The palette is warm andcomforting, but also vibrant, and items are characterized by timeless appeal.
© Copyright ASL 2018
FALL.WINTER 2019.20
LIGHT MAGICIn an era driven by rationality, Light Magic explores a growing interest in the mystical andmysterious. Nature, spirituality and technology meet, as ancient rituals are revisited to providedeeper connections with ourselves, and innovations are developed to improve our 'health-spans'.
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