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APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS - Pool Solutions - Pool … · Web view(Updated 13/09/2017) APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS BACKGROUND Pool Solutions offers a tough pool epoxy primer with a gloss

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Page 1: APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS - Pool Solutions - Pool … · Web view(Updated 13/09/2017) APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS BACKGROUND Pool Solutions offers a tough pool epoxy primer with a gloss

(Updated 13/09/2017)APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS

Page 2: APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS - Pool Solutions - Pool … · Web view(Updated 13/09/2017) APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS BACKGROUND Pool Solutions offers a tough pool epoxy primer with a gloss

BACKGROUND

Pool Solutions offers a tough pool epoxy primer with a gloss protective topcoat epoxy in various colours. Epoxy coatings are easy to maintain and offer long-lasting protection against algae and staining when applied on marble plaster, fibreglass, cement-plaster or concrete surfaces. The product is engineered to specifically offer qualities like acid and chlorine resistance when using HTH products and normal pool acid in recommended dosages. (Please see the notes on after-care (page 7) and take note of some of the products that have reportedly caused staining of the epoxy coat.) Our guarantee requirements are indicated on the last two pages.__________________________________________________________________________________________IMPORTANT

Maintaining the correct PH, alkalinity and Total Hardness levels will ensure longer lifespan of the product. Please have your swimming pool water tested after filling the swimming pool. Test especifically for CALSIUM HARDNESS or Total Hardness as well as Alkalinity. Low Hardness below 300ppm and Alkalinity below 100ppm may cause more excessive chalking of the epoxy layer and reduce the lifespan. Low calcium levels may have been the culprit causing pitting and deterioration of your existing swimming pool surface. Ensure Calcium Hardness is between 350-500 ppm and Alkalinity 100-150ppm. Keep pH between 17.2 – 7.6 for best results.For guarantee purposes please refer to pages 7,9 and 10 of this document. __________________________________________________________________________________________* Note for fibreglass surfaces:Fibreglass pool linings can be coated with this product. For fibreglass pools ignore the notes applicable to the cleaning and repair of the mosaic tiles and the grinding of marble plaster. Fibreglass surfaces should be solid, crack-free and should not have formed bubbles etc. Start with the application of the Primer coat after thoroughly scourging the fibreglass surface by hand with P60 grit sand paper and following the rest of this installation manual.__________________________________________________________________________________________Online help videos are available at : http://www.poolsolutions.co.za/diy.html

NB: NEVER DILUTE THE SUPPLIED PRODUCT WITH WATER, SOLVENTS OR PAINT THINNERS(Any thinning will compromise the quality and mix ratio of the product with unpredictable results)

SHORT OVERVIEW (please study the rest of this document thoroughly)

There are two possible ways of application that can be followed: Long method (4-5 days)

If you are working alone or have limited help available with a relatively large swimming pool, follow the safer route with our normal 4-5 day process.

Day 1 : Used for the preparation of the pool surface and is done with 230mm grinders and flexible P16 fibre discs mounted on a rubber backing disc to grind the surface to a clean, solid finish and removing all chemicals and algae from the substrate.  If cracks or pitted areas are to be repaired, this may extend the process into a following day. Optionally a PCT56 water barrier can be applied if high water tables are suspected around swimming pool.Day2 : A saturating primer coat is applied. While this primer coat is still damp, after +/-30-60min, a first top-coat is applied to bond or “fuse” with the sticky primer. (allow 2 hours during lower, winter temperatures below 18ºC)Day 3 : Sand the hardened, glossy epoxy coat to create a strong inter-layer bond and apply a second top-coat. Leave to dry overnight. Sanding of any dried, glossy layer is very important.Day 4 : Sand the glossy second top-coat thoroughly again and apply the final top coat. (4-5days in total), 4-layers applied. (Note, In winter time below 15ºC, allow a day in between top coat applications).

Please Note: Sometimes, experienced applicators can apply thicker layers evenly at a time and might be able to use all the Topcoat product provided in only two topcoat layer applications. As long as most of the Topcoat product provided for your size swimming pool have been used, the total, dried coating thickness will be within specifications to ensure a long lifespan (0.6mm-0.8mm).

Quick method (2-3 days)

In summer times, if you are confident that you can manage the whole process on one day with no possibility for rain, you may consider the quicker method. Visit www.poolsolutions.co.za/diy.html for more detail regarding the quicker method. Note: Follow the longer method during colder temperatures below 20ºC). For a better smooth finish and/or less risk of teardrops running in the wet paint, follow the longer method.

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Day 1: Follow the exact same steps as indicated under point 1 under the longer method.Day 2: Follow the steps as indicated under Day 2 of the longer method above. Wait approximately 60-90 minutes after application of the first top-coat layer. While the fist epoxy layers are still damp/tacky (60-90 min. test with touching), apply a second Top-coat layer (3rd epoxy layer) using Mowhair or other short-pile rollers marked for enamel paints, fitted to extension or telescopic extension poles. Walk around the pool to apply the epoxy paint without entering into the swimming pool. Alternatively, you can perform this task by entering the pool on spiked paint shoes. After 60-90 minutes after application of the second top-coat layer (3rd

epoxy layer) while the epoxy is still damp/tacky, apply the last and 4th epoxy top-coat layer using the extension poles or spiked shoes as indicated. While applying each coat with rollers, another helper should use a paint brush to paint along the bottom line of the mosaic tiles and around other mosaic patterns etc. You will need to enter the pool the next day on bare feet and inspect/feel the surface to remove any sharp points with a blade and/or sanding paper. __________________________________________________________________________________

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS FOR LONGER METHOD___________________________________________________________________________________________INSPECTION OF THE POOL SURFACE

The epoxy coat is targeted as a gloss, enamel decorative layer to restore the appearance of the swimming pool and reduce the maintenance effort. The epoxy layer will not strengthen the structure, prevent cracking of the underlying surface or necessarily stop leaks. The underlying fibreglass lining or plaster surface must be strong, hard and solid to support the paint layer. Tap the plastered pool plaster surface to ensure that there are no brittleness or pieces breaking loose. Such areas should be repaired before applying the epoxy paint. Fibreglass linings should be repaired if there are cracks or bubbles using a proper fibreglass repair kit.

On plastered pools, check for wet spots penetrating through the structure from outside the swimming pool due to high water tables, porosity, cavities or cracks in the concrete shell. Do not apply the paint on a damp/wet surface or damp spots. Wet spots can be drilled or grinded open to allow water to freely flow into the swimming pool until the spot becomes completely dry. This can take several days or even longer. Water inflow problems can in some cases be stopped using products available from www.hydrosealant.co.za or similar products.

Inspect the pool structure for osmotic pressure from outside

On a small percentage of swimming pools, we have found that slow penetrating osmotic water pressure from outside the swimming pool may result in small bubbles forming in the coating afterwards. To prevent this, test for potential osmotic pressure. See our online help videos available at www.poolsolutions.co.za/diy.html .

Grind a cross-hatched pattern (1-2cm deep) through the marblite layer or plaster down to the concrete layer (+/- 5cm x 5cm area). Chip the area out to create an inspection hole. This can be done preferably on the vertical side of the steps and at the bottom of the deep end. Test with fingers and visual inspection for dampness inside the structure. If dampness is detected, treat the pool surface with a water barrier like PCT56 water repellent at least a day before applying the epoxy paint. PCT56 can be ordered from us or is available at certain hardware outlets. The spread rate for PCT56 is +/- 7-8m² /L. PCT56 can be sprayed onto the surface with normal household sprayer nozzles or using a pesticide garden sprayer pump or rollers. Sand the surface slightly the next day with a P80 sandpaper before applying the epoxy primer layer. Inspection holes can be filled up again with Underwater Pool Patching, cement plaster or marblite. Use “PCT56” as a search term on Google Search for more information.

Newly plastered surfaces

New swimming pools constructed with concrete and cement plaster, should be treated with PCT56 water barrier as a standard precaution. When using a cement plaster it is further recommended to us a bonding liquid like Sika1 or similar with the plaster water.

Newly plastered marblite surfaces should not be overcoated with an epoxy product but should rather be used for 6 months to allow the release of dioxide gasses formed when marblite comes in contact with moisture.

IMPROTANT NOTES and PREPARATION OF THE POOL SURFACE

The preparation of the pool surface is an important part of the process. Any moisture, dirt or acid residue left on the surface during the application of the product will have a degrading effect on the final finish. DO NOT ACID-WASH the pool beforehand. If an acid-wash was performed, the surface should be thoroughly neutralized with bicarbonate soda and water mix, do this process twice using splash-brushes and washing the neutralizer off with water, applying sufficient pressure to deep-clean the surface. Inherent acid in the surface will migrate into the coating while curing and might cause discolouring after a while.

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1. Empty the pool. Electrical or petrol pumps can be hired from most tool hire companies like Talisman, Toolhire, and Hire Quip etc. Ask for a long outlet pipe in order to drain the water into the street’s storm water drains and preferably not into the complex our house municipal drains.

2. To clean mosaic tiles, apply iKleen7 (undiluted) with squirt nozzle or sponge, leave for 10 minutes to soak. Scrub the tiles with rough scrubbing sponges and water. (iKleen7 is available from Pool Solutions and is non-toxic and safe on the skin). Visit www.poolsolutions.co.za/ikleen7.html for photos and more information on this product.

3. For grind-cleaning of the tiles to remove heavy calcium layers, P36, 180mm fibre grinding discs or “Wire Wheel 50 x 12” or “Flap wheel sander 60 x 40mm paint remover disc”, (Disc - Sanding 115mm Flap 80, may also be used). These discs are mounted on an angle grinder or electric drill to remove dirt from heavily stained tiles. 3 to 4 of these discs will be needed for a normal size pool. (Available from hardware stores). It is advisable to first test these grinding wheels on a small portion of the tiles. Also watch the online video.

NB! It is essential that the tiles be scrubbed with water to remove all chemicals from the tiles. Acid and chemicals may contaminate the epoxy and cause yellow staining of the newly applied epoxy layer.

4 Tap the whole pool surface to check for marble plaster that is breaking loose. Hollow sounds are acceptable if the marble plaster is thick, strong and does not show movement or cracking.

5 Chip out the loose plaster, fill and repair. For small repairs, use Underwater Pool Patch (from Cemcrete), also available from Pool Solutions or other swimming pool outlets. Mix the Pool Patch cement powder with water to obtain a workable paste. Fill the holes or cracks using a putty knife. When dry, sand or grind down to a smooth and level finish. Underwater Pool Patch will be dry within a few hours or can even be dried quicker using a heat gun or hair dryer.

6 Large resurfacing of a damaged pool surface can be done with normal cement plaster, the plaster water should be mixed in 10:1 ratio with a bonding liquid like Sika 1 (available from most hardware stores).

7 Scourge the whole pool with P16 flexible fibre discs mounted on a 230mm angle grinders fitted with M14 flexible rubber backing discs until green algae, loose or brittle plaster and dirt are removed. (P16 flexible fibre discs and M14 Rubber Backing discs are available from Pool Solutions, P16 discs, manufactured by Lucas Abrasives are the correct type.) Black algae and dried algae that has penetrated deep into the surface and has fossilized over time, becoming part of plaster surface does not need to be removed or grinded out completely, it can be painted over if these spots are hard and solid. The main idea of the grinding process is to remove loose green algae or material and chemicals.

8 Alternatively if the pool offers a very solid and hard surface, a high-pressure washer with at least 200KPa pressure capability can be used to clean the pool surface instead of grinding. The high-pressure washer equipped with a rotating-pencil-nozzle works best. High-pressure-wash the pool at least twice at 4-6cm distance from the surface. The pool must be completely dry before applying the first Primer coat. If the marble plaster cannot withstand this pressure and form uneven hollow spots, rather grind the pool surface as described above.

9 After grinding, remove the dust by broom and scoop and wipe the surface clean with damp cloth. 10 If wet spots appear from the outside of the pool and doesn’t dry after a day, drill a hole through the pool

structure to drain the water table. Fix later with Underwater Pool Patching. If reverse osmosis is suspected due to high water tables around the pool, it is strongly advisable to treat the pool surface with a damp sealer like PCT56 (available from Pool Solutions and some hardware stores). This will help to prevent blistering at a later stage due to excessive water pressure from the outside.

11 Remove all water from the weir. Blow hard into the outlet-nozzles to remove water from the pipes.

TIP: To prevent dripping from the inlet jets of the pool, create ”plugs” using cloth bundled into a small plastic bag. Smear the plastic bag with silicon sealant on the outside and push tightly into the pipes after removing the jet nozzles. Alternatively use balloons stretched over the nozzle heads to catch dripping water. Keep an eye on balloons that may be filling up.

12 New cement- plastered pools (or concrete) must have a hard and solid finish. Brittle cement surfaces may break loose with the epoxy coat later. It is recommended that Sika 1 or a similar bonding liquid product be mixed with the water when mixing cement-plaster. New concrete structured pools must dry for the industry recommended drying time specified for concrete, (28 days) before painting.

13 On newly cement plastered pools, test the moisture content of the substrate by placing a clear plastic sheet (1m x 1m) on the floor of the pool in a sunny pot and tape the edges with masking tape. If no moist or dampness has formed underneath the plastic after two days, it is an indication that the surface might be dry enough for the paint process.

14 Do not paint the mosaic tiles or between the tiles. A paintbrush can be used paint along the bottom tile edge and in sharp corners. For the rest of the surface, MOWHAIR rollers can be used. Short-pile rollers intended for enamel paints work best with this thick type of epoxy resins, sheepskin rollers tend to tear and leave particles behind. Paint relatively fast with the rollers while the epoxy paint is still wet as it becomes more sticky with time and can start to tear fibres from the rollers. Experienced painters may choose to paint without applying masking tape along patterns and tiles and using the rollers or brushes to neatly paint along the

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edges. Mowhair type Rollers are disposed of after each layer and you will need a new set of rollers for each layer. Use the same roller handle and use separate roller refills for each layer. Masking tape, if used, should be removed directly after painting each layer while the product is still damp.

15 The POT-LIFE of the mixed epoxy product may vary between 15 min (very warm days) and 60 min (cold days) while still in the container. The higher the ambient temperatures, the shorter the pot life. The product mix should be applied within this time span. Use a second helper to do the applications by brush while another is rolling the rest of the surface to save time. NB! Mix only limited amounts (e.g. 2L) at a time to ensure that the amount of mixed product are utilized before end of pot-life, especially during hot conditions. All unmixed products should be kept cool and in the shade. In very hot conditions above 35°C, the A and B component containers can be kept in a larger container with cold water or ice to help prolong pot-life if necessary, although this is normally not necessary. Under very hot conditions paint early in the morning while the pool surface is still cool. During application DO NOT leave the paint bucket or tray on the surface, the heat from the surface will shorthen the pot life or trigger the gelling porcess.

16 On cold winter months below 15ºC, rather keep all product supplied in a sunny spot to help warming and lower viscosity for easier mixing and faster cure times after application.

17 Make provision for a plastic drop sheet (available from hardware stores) on the outside near the steps of the pool. Use this area to always leave the pool, leaving gumboots and gloves behind on the sheet. This will help to prevent contamination of the paving and other surrounding areas. Keep paint solvents, or Methylated Spirits (or Paint Thinners) and mutton cloth on the drop sheet to remove any wet epoxy where contamination of the tiles or paving has occurred. NB! Epoxy contamination must be removed while the epoxy is still wet. Workers tend to stabilize themselves with one hand (normally with epoxy on it) against the coping stones and paved edges while painting, keep an eye out for fingerprints left on these edges and the mosaic tiles while they work and clean up immediately.

__________________________________________________________________________________________WARNINGS and DISCLAIMER

It is recommended to use rubber gloves, gumboots, face masks and safety glasses when working with chemicals. Many products including epoxy paints may be harmful to the skin, eyes and lungs, especially in non-ventilated areas. The epoxy products may contain solvents and chemical vapours like benzene alcohol. Avoid inhaling the vapours. Immediately wash of all contamination on the skin. Wash skin with Methylated Spirits, warm water and soap. Protect your eyes at all times while mixing or applying these products. Do not eat, drink or use the toilet during application of the products. Remove contaminated clothing and thoroughly wash and shower before eating. Contamination of eyes should be treated by thorough washing with clean water and milk for 15 minutes. Consult a doctor immediately.

Paint products may be flammable to open flame, avoid open fire and smoking while applying and near storage areas.

The product can be slippery when newly applied or when cured but with water on it. Be careful. Anti-slip glass beads can be broadcast on the wet coating in areas like the steps to help prevent accidents.

Disclaimer: Pool Solutions, the owners or any of their dealers or affiliates, will not be held responsible in any way for any accidents, injuries, health-related problems or any other damage claims arising from the storage, use, or application of the supplied products.

PRIMER APPLICATION

Keep the products marked Topcoat apart and away from the Primer to prevent accidental intermixing with wrong components.

The Primer is supplied in two components namely Primer-A and Primer-B. The two parts should be mixed with a ratio of 3:1 per volume (not weight). Note: If you have been supplied with “Wet-Smart Primer” on request, the mix ratio is 3:2. (Wet-Smart Primer is more expensive but offers increased bond-strength on problematic, damp/wet surfaces).(Refer to the labels on the containers to identify the correct components marked Primer A and Primer B)

Standard Primer normally supplied:Example (3:1): PRIMER-A PRIMER-B

1.5 l 0.5 l Mix in manageable quantities typically 2 litres at a time as the product has a pot life of 30 min or even 15 min on very warm days. (Keep products in the shadow or a cool spot for longer pot life)

TIP: Use 500g margarine holders or cut 1L plastic coke bottles in half to measure 3 parts Primer A and one part Primer B epoxy liquids. This should result in practical and manageable mixed quantities. Do not try to mix minute small quantities of the product, as this might be inaccurate and may result in failure to properly set or develop good properties. Smaller quantities can be measured using 60ml syringes if required.

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1 First stir the Primer Part A separately in the supplied bucket with a drill and mixing tip for 1 minute at medium speed. Measure and add the two components together and mix well for +/- 2 minutes at medium speed.

2 Use an electric drill fitted with a paint mixing tip (available from Pool Solutions or hardware stores) to do all the mixing. If not available, rather use a flat paddle rather than a round stick. Wash the mixing tip in paint thinners, solvents or Methylated Spirits between mixes to prevent cross-contamination.

3 Use MOWHAIR or Mock Mohair rollers or other short-pile type rollers marked for enamel paints to apply the epoxy mix. Apply a saturating primer layer. The expected coverage is between 14m2 -18 m2 depending on the porous nature of the surface. (Typical spread rate on old, hard marblite). New cement will absorb more primer.

4 Start at the deep end and paint the walls and floor, working your way from the deep end to the shallow end. Do the steps lastly. On very large pools you may apply the primer and first topcoat process as described here in sections and on different days. Sand pervious hardened areas before moving on to paint other sections to allow bonding in overlapping areas and to prepare the dried surface for the next layer.

5 Use enough mixed primer to saturate the surface. Patches with different shades of yellow/brown will be visible after application, this is normal.

6 Every 10 minutes after the primer coat was applied, check for any dry absorption-spots forming and recoat these spots where necessary.

7 Start early to allow time to apply the first top-coat on a damp and sticky primer coat on the same day. 8 Test every 10 minutes in sunny spots and where you started by touching with the fingers. As soon as the

primer starts to feel slightly sticky at certain spots it is a sign that you should start with the application of the top-coat (normally after 30-60 minutes on warm days, this may be extend to two hours on cold winter days). On large pools and on very hot days, the first topcoat can be applied immediately after finishing the primer application, starting from the deep end again. (See next section)

9 Epoxies will drastically increase pot life and layer drying time under lower temperature conditions and decrease pot life under warmer conditions. During warm conditions the coating will become touch-dry after 3-4 hours and will be rain-resistant. (12-18 hours during cold winter conditions)

10 The top edges (top 500mm) of the pool and the steps should be coated and sealed with extra care and saturated properly with primer to protect against garden moist and water penetrating into the walls of the pool from outside.

Apply the first Top-coat after +/- 60-90 minutes (2-3 hours in winter) while the primer is still damp everywhere. Do not allow the primer to totally dry in some areas. Rather start while still a bit too wet than letting it get become touch-dry. If the primer coat was left to become completely touch-dry before applying the first top-coat, rather stop, leave the coating to completely dry and proceed the next day. Sand the dried, hardened epoxy coat layer and apply the top-coat on the well-sanded primer.

Epoxy layer left to completely harden during the application process must first be sanded before applying the next coat to remove what is called “blushing”, a wax-like residue that forms on the top surface of a completely dried epoxy layer. Failure to do this will result in inner-layer de-lamination at a later stage.

11 Use gumboots or old shoes, or plastic bags over bare feet to walk on the wet, sticky primer coat. Alternatively use Spike Paint Shoes (available from Pool Solutions) to walk on the wet Primer epoxy, the pin-holes caused by the spikes will fill up again. Spike shoes will speed up the application process.

TOP-COAT APPLICATION

Mix the Topcoat components marked Topcoat-A and Topcoat-B (Refer to the label on the container to confirm the exact mix ratio for the specific Topcoat supplied)

Examples: Mix Ratio indicated = 2:1: Topcoat-A Topcoat-B 2 l 1l

For two persons applying the paint and if you have been supplied in small sets (e.g. 4L sets of Parts A and Part B) you may add the Part-B bucket contents directly into the Part-A bucket and stir the contents properly.Do not apply or try to dilute the epoxy after it has started to gel. Rather mix smaller quantities if you are unsure about your application speed.

1 Important: Always stir the Topcoat-A part separately for +/-2 min in its supplied container before measuring out with the B-Part to ensure a homogenous mix throughout the project. Part-A contains heavy pigments and solvents that may sag or separate after a while. Not stirring the Topcoat A separately (especially with dark colours) may result in spots not curing, uneven colour patches or a coating that is compromised regarding its bonding strength and chemical resistance etc.

2 Measure the quantities Topcoat-A and Topcoat-B before mixing. 3 The first Topcoat need not to be applied very thickly on the wet/damp Primer layer to prevent running marks.

The result may still appear a bit patchy and uneven, this is normal. Ensure that no dripping or drops are forming while applying by roller. Re-roll where necessary to remove teardrops.

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4 Apply the first Top-coat on a damp, sticky primer coat as explained under the Primer Application. Start at the deep end and work your way from the deep end to the shallow end. Take care as the wet primer coat might be slippery. Work fast on warm days as the Primer will become sticky or hard quickly during very hot conditions and when applied on heated surfaces.

5 On warm days, sweat from the workers dripping into the topcoat might cause yellow stains, let them use headbands to help prevent this, especially when applying the final top coat.

6 Walk around the pool looking directly downwards at the surfaces below. Touch up spots that are fading or where spots were accidentally skipped. Touch up while the product is still wet

7 For the normally followed longer method, leave the first Topcoat to dry overnight. This way it will also be easier to walk with bare feet in the pool the next day without damaging the first layers while applying the second Topcoat. During colder conditions an extra day of drying might be required in-between Topcoat layers for complete drying. (Refer to the Short Overview at the beginning of this document for the shorter method)

8 The first Topcoat that was left to dry overnight will form a hard, glossy layer. The hardened layer must be sanded by hand using P60 grit sand paper the following day to break the gloss a bit. A gentle rub with 60 grit sandpaper everywhere will be sufficient. Epoxy left to dry for longer than 48 hours becomes very hard and glossy and will require more effort with the sanding process. Ensure that the complete surface was sanded without skipping spots.

9 Apply the second Topcoat on the sanded, first Topcoat layer the next day. Apply a thicker coat this time.10 After also sanding the hardened second top-coat layer the next day, apply the third top-coat in the same

manner. Do not apply too thin. An ideal spread rate would be 12m2 / ℓ..11 If excess top coat product is still left over, recoat the steps and the top 500mm of the pool as soon as the

previous coat becomes slightly sticky (well in time before touch-dry). 12 Enter the pool after one day with socks and feel the surface through for any sharp points etc. Use a knife to

cut any sharp edges or sand down with fine sand paper. If necessary, a small quantity topcoat can be mixed in correct ratio for touch-ups, e.g. mix 60ml-A with 20ml-B. (Use 60mL syringes to measure the quantities).

13 Allow 3 days for hardening before adding water, in winter times allow 7 days.______________________________________________________________________________________CREATING A NON-SLIP COATING FOR SWIMMING POOL STEPS

1. Glass beads (400 – 800 micron) can be used to create a non-slip area. The glass beads are supplied in 150g quantities which is enough to create a non-slip area of +/- 10-20m ². (Available from Pool Solutions)

2. Drill 2mm size holes (+/-10-12 holes) in the cover of the small plastic bottle in which the glass beads are supplied. Use the bottle as a dispenser to evenly spread the glass beads onto a wet epoxy top coat layer. Hold the bottle upside down approximately 10cm above the surface and shake the bottle slightly up and down to release the beads while moving the bottle across the area to be covered. A 3-5mm spacing between particles should be sufficient.

3. After application of the final epoxy layer, immediately sprinkle the glass beads on the steps and areas where a non-slip finish is required. Apply a thicker layer of epoxy on areas to be sprinkled with the glass beads.

_________________________________________________________________________________SUPPORT WHEN THINGS GO WRONG

Should you experience any problems with the epoxy application, feel free to contact us and we will be willing to assess the problem and help you to resolve it the most cost-effective way. Mishaps can happen and we are not inclined on making a further profit due to a client’s’ misfortune. Be honest with us and we will offer replacement stock at a much lower material input-cost-level to you. (After-hours contact details on page 8)

IF THE PRODUCT DOESN’T CURE

We will not replace product free of charge. Epoxy curing is a well-tested science, is chemically balanced and well-proven over the span of many years and thousands of installations. Separate stirring of the Part-A components before mixing with Part-B, accurate measuring of the Topcoat A & B and Primer A & B components will always result in the product setting into a hard and glossy layer within 6-8 hours (25ºC). If curing did not take place within 24 hours, the mixing process or product composition was compromised, it is not a product related problem. Water contamination or thinning the product with paint thinners will compromise the product resin and curing agent composition.

In case of a mishap, use paint thinners or solvents like Acetone, Xylene or even Methylated Spirits to remove any uncured, compromised layer using scrapers etc. Sand the surface and re-apply new product according to instructions.

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IMPORTANT NOTES and AFTER-CARE

If treated correctly, this product will provide you with a clean and easy-to-maintain pool for many years. To protect your investment please note the following:

1 Always have new pool water tested for pH, alkalinity and especially for Calcium Hardness (or Total Hardness) at a swimming pool water test facility. Excessive chalking might occur due to low Calcium Hardness, Low alkalinity and low pH - Keep Calcium Hardness between 350-500 ppm. Calcium flakes (Calcium Chloride) is available from swimming pool outlets or from Pool Solutions. U can use water test strips (InstaTest 6 Plus or Aquachek6/7) to test for this condition on a regular basis.

2 The first 4-6 hours after application is critical due to the vulnerability of the product during this initial curing stage. Because the product is still damp and soft, it could easily be damaged, stained by water and chemicals. During warm summer days, the product will become rain-resistant within 3-4 hours.

3 Don’t do garden work around the pool that could cause dust, grass, leaves etc. to contaminate the epoxy coat while still wet, especially during the first 4 hours. Avoid the use of sprinklers near the pool during the first 3 days. Keep pets, garden workers and children away from the pool during this time.

4 A shadow net or other type of clean, cover may be used to cover the pool during the first few hours after application, but is not compulsory and normally not necessary due to the relatively quick set time of the product. If a cover is used, make sure that it is securely tightened around the pool. Solid coverings should be lifted above ground level to allow ventilation underneath the sides.

5 Water may only be added to the pool after a minimum of 3 days of hardening time during warm summer conditions. During cold weather conditions and during the winter months, the hardening time should be extended to 7 days before adding water.

6 Rainwater that may have formed in the pool should be cleaned up as soon as possible. Don’t step into the pool during the hardening time while the product is still soft. Water, dust and leaves should be left till after the hardening time, as it would normally not damage the surface after the initial 4 hours drying time. After 24 hours of hardening time, the pool may be entered on bare feet when necessary to remove water.

7 Fill the pool in one continuous inflow till full. Let the water fall away from the side directly into the deepest end. Don’t let the water flow down the wall as the continued stream of water and friction might still cause a slight discolouring at his stage. The water should not be left to stand partly full to avoid ring discolouring.

8 Test the water for the correct alkalinity. Correct alkalinity levels to a value of 100-150 first, low alkalinity will incorrectly influence the pH and chlorine readings. Low alkalinity may cause yellowish/brown discolouring of pool surfaces. Add HTH Alkalinity-up in limited quantities. After alkalinity is corrected, then add acid to adjust the pH level to 7.2.

9 When the pH level is at the recommended level, add chlorine as usual to maintain the correct chlorine level. HTH dry chlorine, HTH month-packs, Bio Guard or PoolBrite drifter packs may be used, string them 1m from the wall to the automatic pool cleaner pipe to prevent yellow streaks against the walls. Drifters tend to “park” for long periods of time against the wall and then release shock treating chlorine that can temporarily stain the wall. Bio guard dry chlorine should only be added through the weir while pump is running as per manufacturer’s instructions. We recommend rather using HTH floaters and dry chlorine which can be added directly into the swimming pool.

10 Although this epoxy has excellent resistance against chemicals and should not be permanently stained even by undiluted acid and chlorine, it is still advisable to evenly spread the chemicals by adding through the weir basket while the pump is running for best results. Adhere to manufacturers recommendations.

11 You may start using the pool cleaner again right away after completely filling the swimming pool.12 Should it happen that rusting objects or other forms of discolouring has occurred at a certain spot, use a

kitchen sponge soaked with Handy Andy or iKleen7 to scrub the spot, even under water. 13 Please note. If you have a salt chlorinator, it is strongly advisable to treat the water with normal HTH chlorine

for the first month before adding salt and switching over to the salt chlorinator to allow for the full hardness development of the epoxy coat. Please note that you should minimize the salt dosage to prolong the epoxy layer’s lifespan. Less algae growth due to the epoxy layer requires less chemicals to control algae and maintain a clear water appearance.

14 Waterwell Dry Chlorine and a product to raise alkalinity by Aqua Cure, have been reported to cause yellow staining. Please use normal 4in1 HTH drifter packs, HTH Clear 4 Weeks or HTH dry chlorine, normal pool acid and HTH Alkalinity-up, which have all been well-tested with the product. For algae control and quick clarifying, a product called Two10Blue and Waterwell’s Clarifier and Algaecide can be used. Blue52 can be used but metal removing treatment applied every 12 months is recommended by the manufacturer. Please use all products according to manufacturer’s instructions.

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Typical Materials and Tools list needed for two workers

ITEM QTYRoller Handles 2

Rollers Mohair 100mm (Pool Solutions) 8

Paint Brushes 38mm (Pool Solutions) 8

Sanding Paper P60 (roll) 2

Plastic Bags Black (Roll) 1

Mutton Cloth (Roll) 1

Mentholated Spirits 5L 1Ikleen7 Tile Cleaner, non-toxic, household cleaner (Pool Solutions) 1L 1

Masking Tape (roll) optional 1

Welding Gloves for Grinder Protection optional 2

Rubber Gloves Chem. Resist. Only if Chemicals like Mosaic Wonder or other acids are going to be used. 2

Plastic Drop Sheet 1

Electrical Extension (20m) 1

Safety glasses for grinding work 2Face Mask with two P2 or P1 Dust-filter capsules for grinding work and two A1 Chemical capsules for mixing and paint work in interior areas. Material type masks can be used for outdoor applications.

2

Underwater Pool Patching 5Kg to repair marbelite and cracks (from Pool Solutions or Cemcrete) Optional 1

Buckets for mixing 5 Litre 2-4

Measuring mug (or 500g margarine buckets or similar) 4

Putty knife 1

Broom, brush and scoop set 1

Electric drill (e.g. Ryobi 800w) for mixing 1

Paint Mixing tip for electric drill 1

Angle Grinder 180mm discs (e.g. Ryobi) 2

P16 grinding discs (Lucas Abrasives) (Pool Solutions) 1 per 10sqm 1 per 10sqm

M14 Flexipad rubber backing disc for grinders (Pool Solutions) 2

Spiked Paint Shoes 25mm spikes, optional – (Pool Solutions) 2 Pairs

Paint bucket (2L) with handles for painting with100mm rollers 2

Roller extension poles or telescopic extenders - optional 2

Contact numbers: Celéne – 083 227 6663 Gerhard- 072 603 8895 Philip – 083 4559632

For after-hours support, call us on 083 227 6663. If no answer, send a SMS or Whatsapp message to 083 227 6663 indicating your name and short description of your enquiry. We will be in contact ASAP.

Website: www.poolsolutions.co.za

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QUALITY and GAURANTEE CHECKLISTShould you wish to register for our 3-year, 100% product replacement guarantee, this Quality Checklist should be completed while doing the application process (not afterwards) and emailed, faxed or posted to us within 30 days from date of purchase. A water test report (specifically including a Total Hardness or Calcium Hardness test) should be forwarded for our records within 30 days after application. Take note of page 7 – After-care Instructions to prolong the lifespan of the coating.

Name of client: _______________________________________________

Installation Address: _____________________________________________________________

Indicate Method of application: Longer (4-5 days) [ ] or Quick Method (1-2 days) [ ]

Check items with ( , Yes or No), monitor date and time, take photos where marked as required for reference purposes. For the Quicker Method, draw a line through points 12 and 14, but take photos between layers.

Notes: (Please give us your feedback and comments)

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STEP TASK/DESCRIPTION CHECKED()(yes)(no)

DATE TIME PHOTO

1 Pool emptied and left to dry 12 Check for cracks, loose marblite/cement,

problems fixed3 Was chemicals used to clean tiles or pool

beforehand? (Yes, No)4 Surface scrubbed with soap and water after

chemical cleaning? Neutralizer-wash after acid was used? Indicate process and chemicals used in comments below.

5 Grind the entire pool with P16-P24 Grinding discs

6 After grinding, wipe/broom the pool to ensure it is dust-free. Pool must be completely dry

2

7 Stir Primer A separately. Measure correct quantities of Primer A and Primer B and mix in practical small quantities in correct 3:1 (A:B)-ratio in separate bucket. (Mix for 2 minutes), Do not use a stick, us a paint mixing tip and an electric drill for all mixing.

8 Apply thoroughly with rollers, saturate surface.Check regularly for dry spots and touch up. Use brushes in tight spots or along tile lines.

3

9 Check regularly on different areas by touching. As soon as the layer starts to feel slightly sticky in some areas, start to apply the top-coat. Apply first top-coat on sticky, damp primer on the same day. Normally within 30-60 minutes. (120min - cold weather)

10 Apply 1st Top-coatStir Top-coat A regularly and separately before all mixes for 2min using a proper mixing tip and elect drillMeasure correct quantities and mix practical small quantities in correct ratio (see label on bucket) in separate bucket. (mix for 3 min)

11 Apply with rollers, check regularly for missed spots and touch up. Coat well along top edges and steps. Re-roll to prevent teardrops forming where necessary

12(Ignore

for Quick

Method)

First Top-coat is left to completely dry overnight – sand by hand using P60 grit sand paper next day. Don’t miss any spots when sanding. Clean pool with dry or slightly damp cloth.

4

13 Apply 2nd Top-Coat (3rd epoxy layer)(For Quick method repeat point 9)Stir Top-coat A separatelyMeasure correct quantities and mix practical quantities in correct ratio (see label on bucket) in separate bucket. (mix for 3 min)

14(Ignore

for Quick

Method)

Second Top-coat is left to completely dry overnight – sand thoroughly by hand using P60 sand paper next day. Don’t miss any spots when sanding. Clean pool with dry cloth.

5

15 Apply 3rd Top-coat(For Quick method repeat point 9)Stir Top-coat A separately and thoroughly,Measure correct quantities and mix practical quantities in correct ratio. (mix for 3 min)

16 Apply with rollers, check regularly for missed spots and touch up. Use brushes in corners and along tiles etc. Keep an eye on the last layer to see if teardrops are forming, re-roll while wet to remove any teardrops.

17 After one day drying of final coat, enter bare feet and check for sharp points and missed spots and other deformities, cut sharp points or remove with fine grade water sand paper, touch up if necessary.

17 Leave for 3 days in summer to dry, 7 days in cold winter before adding water NB

6

18 Fill pool in one continuous flow away from walls in deep end.

7

19 Final photo of filled pool 820 Why not send us a nice photo of your clean,

blue pool for publication on our website?9

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_________________________________________________________________________________________________

For our product replacement guarantee: 1. Complete this checklist during application (not afterwards) and forward to us within 30 days of

purchase. 2. Have the swimming pool water tested (including a test for Total Hardness (TH) or Calcium Harness

(CA) within 30 days after filling and rectifying chemical levels, send to us for our records. Where a water test facility (most pool shops) are not available, use a water test strip (Insta Test 6 Plus or Aquachek 6 or 7 avalaible from Pool Solutions, Pool shops, Makro, Builders Express etc.) to test the water and forward a picture of the test strip result next to the colour chart on the bottle. Adjust Calcium (TH) to upper ideal range on these test strips. Calcium Hardness must be adjusted to read between 350ppm and 500ppm regardless of the recommendations by pool shop testing facilities. This will prolong the lifespan of the coating and reduce chalking of the paint. For more information: www.poolsolutions.co.za/guarantee.html

Checklist and photos may be posted to: P.O.Box 74170, Lynnwood Ridge, Pretoria, 0040Or e-mail the form and Photos to: [email protected]: 0866572412

Why not take notes and photos of the process? If you send your project report to us, we will publish your report on our website to encourage and help other DIY enthusiasts.

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