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APPENDIX 7
Dyeing experiments - based on the work of Golikov (2001a,b). Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 0 Golikov recipe
Water Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 43.22±0.06, a* 40.96±0.01, b* 6.1±0.03
L* 40.85±0.01, a* 41.83±0.02, b* 8.99±0.01
Marseilles soap Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 3.5 pH 3.5
Additives 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 1 Bath w/ soap
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 39.24±0.04, a* 48.65±1.72, b* 4.32±0.02
L* 46.89±0.03, a* 41.96±0.01, b* 4.81±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 3.5 pH 3.5
Additives 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 2 W/ CaCo3
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 57.77±0.03, a* 37.54±0.01, b* -1.34±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 7.8 2 pH 6.9 2 Additives 50 % CaCo3 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 3 NO calcium
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 34.54±0.02, a*62.05±0.02, b* 3.21±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 3.7 pH 4
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 4 Mordanting for 1h
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 44.27±0.01, a*44.33±0.01, b* -0.71±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t ½ h t 1h t 1h 1h
pH 3.8 pH 3.8 Additives 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
1
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 5 W/ sodium nitrate
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 52.06±0.01, a* 40.87±0.01, b* -0.31±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 3.5 pH 3.8
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 6 Mordanting at pH 7
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 35.53±0.02, a* 53.23±0.03, b* -8.39±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 6.9 pH 4
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 7 Mordanting at pH 10
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 45.76±0.03, a* 47.95±0.02, b* -1.55±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 9.8 pH 4.2
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 8 Mordanting at 40ºC
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 29.33±0.02, a* 55.15±0.04, b* -8.06±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 40 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 7.8 pH 4
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 9 Mordanting at 100ºC
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 33.19±0.02, a* 55.24±0.02, b* -5.17±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 100 Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80
t ½ h
t 1h t 1h 1h
pH 8.9 pH 4
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
2
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 10 Dye extraction at 40ºC
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 36.47±0.05, a* 52.65±0.14, b* -5.99±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 40 80
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 7.8 pH 4.2
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 11 Dye extraction at 100ºC
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 34.92±0.02, a* 51.96±0.06, b* -5.28±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 7.8 pH 4.2
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 12 Dye extraction for ½ h
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 38.07±0.04, a* 51.43±0.06, b* -7.91±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80
t ½ h t 1h 24h t ½ h 1h
pH 7.4 pH 3.7
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 13 NO cream of tartar
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 23.18±0.01, a*53.90±0.04, b* -15.98±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 7.4 pH 6.1
Additives Additives
Exp. 14 W/ tannic acid
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 28.79±0.01, a*48.15±0.01, b* -13.53±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80
t ½ h
t 1h t 1h 1h
pH 6.9 pH 4.2
Additives Additives 10 % tannic acid
3
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 15 Dyeing at 40ºC
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 34.96±0.00, a* 55.53±0.03, b* -4.88±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 40
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 6.9 pH 4.2
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 16 Dyeing for ½ h
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 34.48±0.01, a* 52.39±0.02, b* -8.04±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h ½ h
pH 7.5 pH 4
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 17 Dyeing for 1 h + 24h
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 28.39±0.05, a* 58.14±0.01, b* -4.00±0.06
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.5 pH 4
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 18 Dyeing at pH 7
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 39.90±0.09, a* 49.20±0.04,
b* -6.37±0.05
Repetition: L* 37.07±0.09, a* 47.93±0.07, b* -11.36±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.6 / repetition: 7.1 pH 7.2 / rep.: 7.1
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 19 Dyeing at pH 10
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 36.24±0.04, a* 51.15±0.02,
b* -8.70±0.02
Repetition: L* 32.47±0.04, a* 49.21±0.02, b* -10.63±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.6 / rep.: 7.1 pH 9.8 / rep.: 9.6
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
4
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 20 Mordanting at pH 3,5 and dyeing at pH 7
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 47.77±0.02, a* 37.52±0.07, b* -8.32±0.02
Repetition: L* 49.64±0.06, a* 34.36±0.01, b* -6.50±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 3.4 / rep.: 3.8 pH 7.3 / rep.: 7.4
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 21A NO cream of tartar
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 15.57±0.07, a* 49.16±0.06, b* -14.08±0.06
Repetition: L* 21.46±0.04, a* 52.44±0.02, b* -15.35±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7 / rep.: 6.9 pH 5.5 / rep.: 5.8
Additives Additives
Exp. 21B NO cream of tartar
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 19.11±0.03, a* 49.72±0.00, b* -15.85±0.02
Repetition: L* 23.61±0.08, a* 50.05±0.04, b* -16.16±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.3 / rep.: 7.1 pH 5.7 / rep.: 6.1
Additives Additives
Exp. 22A and B Dyeing with higher pH
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) A. L* 19.61±0.03, a* 52.48±0.04, b* -10.87±0.06
B. L* 25.43±0.01, a*52.48±0.03, b* -17.54±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH A. 7.3 / B. 7.3 pH A. 7.3 / B. 8.1
Additives Additives
Exp. 23 Golikov recipe at pH 7
Water Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 49.61±0.16, a*41.86±0.07, b* -8.05±0.07
Marseilles soap Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80
t t 1h 24h t 1h 1h
pH 6.8 pH 7.1 Additives 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
5
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 24 Golikov recipe at pH 7 using wool
Water Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 19.46±0.11, a* 53.10±0.17, b* 2.98±0.02
Marseilles soap Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 6.8
Additives 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 25 Exp. 3 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 16.39±0.01, a* 47.45±0.01, b* 28.11±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 3.7 pH 3.6
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 26 Exp. 14 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 15.67±0.01, a* 47.10±0.03, b* 26.77±0.16
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 4.6
Additives Additives 10% tannic acid
Exp. 27 Exp. 18 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 12.90±0.01, a* 43.88±0.02, b* 22.09±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 6.9
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 28 Exp. 19 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 15.30±0.04, a* 46.33±0.05, b* 26.21±0.06
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.1 pH 10
Additives Additives 10 % tartar
6
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 29 Exp. 21 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) A. L* 14.73±0.07,
a* 45.38±0.12, b* 24.99±0.11
B. L* 12.91±0.05, a* 43.55±0.07, b* 22.10±0.08
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH A. 7.1 / B. 7.1 pH A. 5.6 / B. 5.6
Additives Additives
Exp. 30 Tartar in mordanting and dyeing
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 34.96±0.04, a* 50.77±0.00, b* -8.60±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7 pH 7
Additives 10 % tartar Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 31 Exp. 30 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 9.31±0.03, a* 39.09±0.05, b* 15.90±0.06
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1 h 1h -
pH 7 pH 7.1
Additives 10 % tartar Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 32 W/ calcium nitrate
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 31.36±0.01, a*62.53±0.01, b* 4.23±0.07
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7 pH 6.9
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 33 Exp. 32 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 12.14±0.05, a*42.38±0.06, b* 20.77±0.09
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.1 pH 7.1
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
7
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 34 Tannic acid mordanting and dyeing
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 28.25±0.06, a* 51.67±0.57, b* -13.15±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7 pH 7
Additives 10 % tannic acid Additives 10 % tannic acid
Exp. 35 Exp. 34 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 19.50±0.04, a* 50.88±0.05, b* 31.90±0.05
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.9 pH 7.1
Additives 10 % tannic acid Additives 10 % tannic acid
Exp. 36 W/ tannic acid and calcium nitrate
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 40.35±0.02, a* 49.40±0.05, b* -3.85±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.1 pH 6.9
Additives 10 % ta. ac. + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tannic acid
Exp. 37 Exp. 36 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 13.82±0.09, a* 44.40±0.14, b* 23.66±0.16
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.9 pH 7.1
Additives 10 % ta. ac. + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tannic acid
Exp. 38 Dyeing w/ tap water
Water 100 mL (tap) Water 100 mL (tap) Water 20 mL (tap) L* 35.14±0.03, a* 53.74±0.04, b* -2.84±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7 pH 6.9
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
8
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 39 Exp. 38 using wool
Water 100 mL (tap) Water 100 mL (tap) Water 20 mL (tap) L* 17.73±0.01, a* 47.54±0.01, b* 20.58±0.07
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.1 pH 6.9
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 40 Dyeing w/ lake water
Water 100 mL (lake) Water 100 mL (lake) Water 20 mL (lake) L* 33.59±0.08, a* 56.64±0.04, b* -0.55±0.06
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.1 pH 6.9
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 41 Exp. 40 using wool
Water 100 mL (lake) Water 100 mL (lake) Water 20 mL (lake) L* 17.25±0.08, a* 45.62±0.06, b* 29.58±0.10
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7 pH 6.9
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 42 Dyeing w/ rain water
Water 100 mL (rain) Water 100 mL (rain) Water 20 mL (rain) L* 29.38±0.05, a* 61.16±0.04, b* 9.17±0.08
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 6.9
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 43 Exp. 42 using wool
Water 100 mL (rain) Water 100 mL (rain) Water 20 mL (rain) L* 11.44±0.01, a*41.67±0.01, b* 19.56±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 6.9
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
9
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 44 Dyeing w/ more tartar
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 31.98±0.02, a* 61.58±0.02, b* 3.8±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 6.8
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 45 Mordanting at pH 5 and dyeing at pH 5
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 44.66±0.04, a* 45.93±0.98, b* 5.76±0.05
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 5.0 pH 5.0
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 46 Mordanting at pH 7 and dyeing at pH 5
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 38.16±0.02, a* 60.66±0.04, b* 6.70±0.05
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 5.1
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 47 Exp. 44 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 6.16±0.01, a* 33.32±0.03, b* 10.47±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 7.0
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 48 Cochineal (pH 7) + turmeric 3
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 43.46±0.04, a* 39.01±0.02, b* 24.95±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 6.9
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
10
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 49 Cochineal (pH 5) + turmeric 3
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 41.13±0.03, a* 48.51±0.03, b* 50.43±0.17
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.0 pH 5.1
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 50 Cochineal (no adds +pH 5) + turmeric 3
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 34.92±0.01, a* 42.70±0.03, b* 51.69±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.0 pH 5.0
Additives Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 51 Cochineal (no adds +pH 7) + turmeric 3
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 36.61±0.03, a* 41.38±0.03, b* 31.02±0.08
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h t 1h 24h t ½ h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 6.8
Additives Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 52 Exp. 48 using wool3
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 10.99±0.02, a*10.96±0.03, b* 18.79±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.0 pH 6.8
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 53 Exp. 51 using wool3
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 9.86±0.01, a*39.71±0.01, b* 16.85±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.0 pH 6.8
Additives Additives 25 % tartar
11
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 54 Dyeing w/ turmeric
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) L* 77.32±0.03, a* -1..79±0.03, b* 60.83±0.09
Marseilles soap 50 % Colourant 375 % American cochineal
ºC 80 Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80
t ½ h
t ¼ h ½ h
pH 6.5
Additives
Exp. 55 Cochineal + turmeric procedure 4
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 51.56±0.03, a* 43.29±0.04, b* 0.25±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 4.9
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 56 Turmeric + cochineal (pH 7) 5
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 44.92±0.12, a* 24.46±0.03, b* 31.80±0.06
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 6.8
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 57 Armenian cochineal no adds (0.1 g silk)
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 71.90±0.02, a* 22.51±0.02, b* 1.70±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 200 % Armenian cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 4 days t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.9 pH 6.8
Additives Additives
Exp. 58 Exp. 57 using (0.1 g) wool w/ adds
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 53.18±0.04, a* 48.21±0.02, b* 10.06±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 200 % Armenian cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 7.0
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
12
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 59 Polish cochineal no adds (0.1 g silk)
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 54.59±0.04, a* 32.90±0.02, b* -3.09±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Polish cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 4 days t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.1 pH 6.8
Additives Additives
Exp. 60 Exp. 59 using (0.1 g) wool w/ adds
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 31.23±0.02, a* 58.87±0.01, b* 29.19±0.09
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Polish cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 6.8
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 61 Kermes no adds (0.1 g silk)
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 54.83±0.01, a* 22.95±0.00 b* 6.21±0.00
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Kermes
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 4 days t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.1 pH 7.1
Additives Additives
Exp. 62 Exp. 61 using (0.1 g) wool w/ adds
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 19.97±0.05, a* 48.93±0.06, b* 34.27±0.08
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Kermes
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.1 pH 7.0
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 63 American cochineal + kermes (0.1 g silk)
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 40.96±0.01, a* 55.51±0.02, b* 19.91±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50% American cochineal + 50% kermes
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.0 pH 3.4
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
13
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 64 Exp. 63 using (0.1 g) wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 15.64±0.02, a* 46.48±0.01, b* 26.81±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50% American cochineal + 50% kermes
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 3.5
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 65 Mordanting for 4 days
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) A. L* 32.74±0.02, a* 63.29±0.01, b* 1.74±0.05
B. L* 36.35±0.07, a* 51.52±0.03, b* 0.54±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 4 days t 1h 1h 24h
pH A. 6.8 / B. 6.8 pH A. 6.9 / B. 6.8
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 66 Exp. 65 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) A. L* 12.18±0.05, a* 42.39±0.07, b* 20.83±0.08
B. L* 10.29±0.01, a* 39.96±0.01, b* 17.59±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 4 days t 1h 1h -
pH A. 7.0 / B. 7.0 pH A. 6.9 / B. 7.1
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25% tannic acid
Exp. 67 100% turmeric 6
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 39.78±0.06, a* 52.60±0.02, b* 12.22±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 4 days t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 6.9
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 68 Tin chloride 7
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 35.38±0.05, a* 62.60±0.03, b* 45.40±0.08
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 20 % tin chloride Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 1.9 pH 3.4
Additives 12 % tartar Additives
14
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 69 Exp. 68 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 28.15±0.11, a* 59.23±0.17, b* 47.41±0.09
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 20 % tin chloride Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 2.1 pH 3.2
Additives 12 % tartar Additives
Exp. 70 Tin chloride + tartar in the dye bath
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 42.73±0.01, a* 64.40±0.03, b* 37.77±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 20 % tin chloride Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 2.1 pH 3.1
Additives 12 % tartar Additives 12 % tartar
Exp. 71 Exp. 70 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 25.60±0.06, a* 58.02±0.06, b* 43.98±0.11
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 20 % tin chloride Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1 h 1h -
pH 1.9 pH 3.1
Additives 12 % tartar Additives 12 % tartar
Exp. 72 Tartar + tannic acid
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 42.54±0.03, a*52.27±0.04, b* 3.10±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.9 pH 6.8
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tannic acid
Exp. 73 Tin chloride: NO tartar
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 41.13±0.04, a*63.45±0.01, b* 32.68±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 20 % tin chloride Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 1.8 pH 4.0
Additives Additives
15
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 74 Exp. 73 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 23.03±0.02, a* 54.05±0.03, b* 39.55±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 20 % tin chloride Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 1.8 pH 3.1
Additives Additives
Exp. 75 Reproducibility of Exp. 44
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) A. L* 34.66±0.03, a* 55.93±0.04, b* 2.53±0.01
B. L* 31.23±0.02, a* 61.57±0.01, b* 6.70±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH A. 6.8 / B. 6.8 pH A. 7.0 / B. 7.0
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 76 Exp. 76 using wool
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) A. L* 7.66±0.04, a* 36.30±0.05, b* 13.06±0.06
B. L* 8.28±0.03, a* 37.27±0.05, b* 14.11±0.06
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH A. 6.8 / B. 6.8 pH A. 7.0 / B. 7.0
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 77 Dyeing silk and wool to make pigment 8
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) Silk. L* 80.10±0.02,
a* 10.32±0.01, b* 6.79±0.01 4x amplification
Wool. L* 24.84±0.24, a* 40.43±0.28, b* -11.70±0.16
3.5x amplification
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH silk 7.1 / wool 6.9 pH silk 6.8 wool 6.9
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 78 Armenian cochineal (0.1 g silk) - fat free 9
Water 50 mL (tap) Water 50 mL (tap) Water 20 mL (tap) L* 62.65±0.07, a* 27.96±0.04, b* -0.76±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Armenian cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 6.0
Additives Additives
16
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 79 Exp. 78 using (0.1 g) wool 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 28.39±0.02, a* 60.75±0.01, b* 14.00±0.08
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Armenian cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 6.0
Additives Additives
Exp. 80 Armenian cochineal w/ adds (0.1 g silk) 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 66.25±0.07, a* 26.63±0.06, b* 0.22±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Armenian cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.8 pH 5.7
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives
Exp. 81 Exp. 80 using (0.1 g) wool 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 52.67±0.01, a* 45.63±0.05 b* 1.18±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Armenian cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.9 pH 5.7
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives
Exp. 82 Armenian cochineal - mordanting and dyeing at pH 4 (0.1 g silk) 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 63.27±0.04, a* 32.44±0.08, b* -0.62±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Armenian cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 4.7 pH 5.4
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives
Exp. 83 Exp. 82 using (0.1 g) wool 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 26.49±0.02, a* 57.98±0.03, b* 19.43±0.07
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 100 % Armenian cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 4.7 pH 4.4
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives
17
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 84 Kermes (0.1 g silk) - fat free 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 57.72±0.03, a* 31.19±0.01, b* 4.65±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % Kermes
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.0 pH 6.1
Additives Additives
Exp. 85 Exp. 84 using (0.1 g) wool 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 36.49±0.06, a* 51.55±0.02, b* 14.68±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % Kermes
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.0 pH 6.1
Additives Additives
Exp. 86 Kermes w/ adds (0.1 g silk) 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 59.87±0.02, a* 33.75±0.03, b* 4.49±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % Kermes
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.0 pH 6.1
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives
Exp. 87 Exp. 86 using (0.1 g) wool 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 35.09±0.02, a* 57.75±0.03, b* 17.37±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % Kermes
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.0 pH 6.1
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives
Exp. 88 Polish cochineal (0.1 g silk) - fat free 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 67.82±0.01, a* 24.28±0.03, b* 0.03±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % Polish cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 7.1 pH 5.4
Additives Additives
18
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 89 Exp. 88 using (0.1 g) wool 9
Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 50 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 50.87±0.01, a* 38.37±0.071, b* 2.08±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % Polish cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h -
pH 6.9 pH 5.7
Additives Additives
Exp. 90 Bottled water
Water 100 mL (bottled) Water 100 mL (bottled) Water 20 mL (bottled) L* 62.51±0.01, a* 26.77±0.01, b* 1.23±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 7.0 pH 7.0
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 91 Exp. 90 using wool
Water 100 mL (bottled) Water 100 mL (bottled) Water 20 mL (bottled) L* 62.51±0.02, a* 27.05±0.03, b* 7.36±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1 h 1h -
pH 7.0 pH 7.1
Additives 10 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 10 % tartar
Exp. 92 ↓ alum
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) A. L* 46.41±0.01, a* 40.75±0.01, b* -1.18±0.01
B. L* 37.04±0.04, a* 57.01±0.01, b* 20.95±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 50 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1 h 1h -
pH A. 7.0 / B. 7.0 pH A. 6.8 / B. 3.4
Additives 10 % tartar + 20 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 93 ↓ cochineal
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 49.51±0.02, a* 49.61±0.02, b* -3.74±0.01
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 10 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 7.1
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 5 % tartar
19
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results 1
Exp. 94 American cochineal + turmeric
Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 100 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 40.94±0.06, a* 54.90±0.02, b* 29.27±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50% American cochineal +25% turmeric
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 Troom
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 6.8 pH 3.5
Additives 25 % tartar + 50 % Ca(NO3)2 Additives 25 % tartar
Exp. 95 Recipe based on Hacke (see Table 4)
Water 100 mL (rain) Water 100 mL (rain) Water 40 mL (rain)
L* 28.86±0.02, a* 57.33±0.05, b* 7.51±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 50% American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 2h -
pH 5.1 pH 3.4
Additives 12.5 % NaCl + 187.5 %
copper turnings + 10 % tartar + 50 % wood ashes
Additives 19% gum Arabic + 20% tartar + 187.5% copper turnings + 5.5% turmeric
Exp. 96 Exp. 95 w/ ↓ alum + ↓pH
Water 100 mL (rain) Water 100 mL (rain) Water 40 mL (rain)
L* 28.80±0.03, a* 55.63±0.01, b* 4.67±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 25 % alum Colourant 50% American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80 ↓
t ½ h
t 1h 24h t 1h 2h -
pH 4.5 pH 3.3
Additives 12.5 % NaCl + 187.5 %
copper turnings + 10 % tartar + 10 % wood ashes
Additives 19% gum Arabic + 20% tartar + 187.5% copper turnings + 5.5% turmeric
1 Colour coordinate measurements (L * a * b *, CIELAB) were performed three times on every dyed sample. The colour scale photographed with every dyed sample has a size of 10 x 9 mm. 2 Any increase of pH levels is owed to the addition of CaCo3. 3 Cochineal bath followed by bath of turmeric (2-3 min. exposure at pH ~6.6). 4 Cochineal bath followed by the bath of exp. 54 but without turmeric. 5 After washed, the fibres were dyed with turmeric (following exp. 54) and then mordanted for cochineal dyeing. 6 Cochineal bath followed by a bath of 100% turmeric (2-3 min. exposure at pH ~6.6). 7 Based on the recipe described in the work of Wouters & Verhecken (1989, pp. 190-191). 8 Same dyeing parameters for silk and wool. The pigment was prepared according with a recipe described by Kirby et al. (2014, p. 100-101). 9 The insects were firstly extracted at 100ºC for 1h. As recommended by Wouters & Verhecken (1989, pp. 193), and as soon as the solution reached room temperature, the fat and the dye extract were separated with chloroform, using a separatory funnel.
20
Dyeing experiments - based on the work of Wouters & Verhecken (1989). Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results
Exp. W0 Wouters & Verhecken recipe (wool)
Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 17.83±0.03, a* 48.70±0.03, b* 30.59±0.05
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-100 Left to dry at Troom
Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC Troom 40-80
t 30 min.
t ¾h t 48h 1h
pH pH 2,7
Additives 12 % tartar Additives
Exp. W1 Wouters & Verhecken recipe (silk)
Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 52.61±0.10, a* 34.91±0.09, b* 0.10±0.02
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Left to dry at Troom
Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC Troom 40-80
t 30 min. t ¾h t 48h 1h
pH pH 4,2
Additives 12 % tartar Additives
Exp. W2 Mordanting and dyeing for 24h (silk)
Water 40 mL (distilled) Water 40 mL (distilled) Water 40 mL (distilled) L* 53.97±0.04, a* 38.03±0.02, b* 13.00±0.02
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC Troom 40-80 Troom
t 30 min. t 1 ½ h 24h t 48h 2h 24h
pH 2,3 pH 4,2
Additives 12 % tartar Additives
Exp. W3 NO cream of tartar (wool)
Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 11.77±0.04, a*41.45±0.04, b* 20.15±0.06
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Left to dry at Troom
Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC Troom 40-80
t 30 min.
t ¾h t 48h 1h
pH 3,1 pH 3,1
Additives Additives
Exp. W4 Dye extraction for 1h (wool)
Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 13.55±0.01, a*44.00±0.01, b* 23.20±0.02
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Left to dry at Troom
Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 40-80
t 30 min. t ¾h t 1h 1h
pH 2.6 pH 2.8
Additives 12 % tartar Additives 10 % tartar
21
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results
Exp. W5 Mordanting at pH 7 (wool)
Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 15.75±0.01, a* 46.43±0.02, b* 27.01±0.01
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Left to dry at Troom
Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC Troom 40-80
t 30 min.
t ¾h t 48h 1h
pH 6,9 pH 3.4
Additives 12 % tartar Additives
Exp. W6 Dyeing at pH 7 (wool)
Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 12.71±0.01, a* 43.46±0.02, b* 21.75±0.02
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Left to dry at Troom
Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC Troom 40-80
t 30 min.
t ¾h t 48h 1h
pH 2,6 pH 6,8
Additives 12 % tartar Additives
Exp. W7 Dyeing and mordanting at pH 7 (wool)
Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 14.23±0.04, a* 45.01±0.04, b* 24.37±0.07
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Left to dry at Troom
Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 40-80
t 30 min.
t ¾h t 1h 1h
pH 7.0 pH 6.8
Additives 12 % tartar Additives
Exp. W8 With cream of tartar at pH 4 (silk)
Water 40 mL (distilled) Water 40 mL (distilled) Water 40 mL (distilled) L* 45.82±0.04, a* 41.88±0.02, b* 11.24±0.02
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 40-80 Troom
t 30 min.
t ¾h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 3.9 pH 3.5
Additives 12 % tartar Additives 12 % tartar
Exp. W9 Mordanting w/ cream of tartar at pH 5,5 (silk)
Water 40 mL (distilled) Water 40 mL (distilled) Water 40 mL (distilled) L* 38.00±0.02, a* 50.30±0.02, b* 2.47±0.01
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 40-80 Troom
t 30 min.
t ¾h 24h 24h 1h 1h 24h
pH 5.5 pH 3.4
Additives 12 % tartar Additives 12 % tartar
22
Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results
Exp. W10 Using tap water (wool)
Water 20 mL (tap) Water 40 mL (tap) Water 20 mL (tap) L* 22.01±0.01, a* 51.61±0.03, b* 28.71±0.02
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Left to dry at Troom
Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 40-80
t 30 min.
t ¾h t 1h 1h
pH 3.6 pH 3.7
Additives 12 % tartar Additives 12 % tartar
Exp. W11 Using tap water (silk)
Water 40 mL (tap) Water 40 mL (tap) Water 20 mL (tap) L* 44.43±0.03, a* 45.04±0.00, b* -0.84±0.02
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 40-80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 40-80 Troom
t 30 min.
t ¾h 24h t 1h 1h 24h
pH 2.9 pH 4.5
Additives 12 % tartar Additives 12 % tartar
23
Dyeing experiments - based on the work of Böhmer (2001) and Sandberg (1997). Experiments on 0,2 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results
Exp. B0 Böhmer recipe (wool) 1
Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 27.99±0.05, a* 39.19±0.02, b* -9.39±0.03
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 10 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 80 ↓ Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 100 ↓
t 30 min.
t 2h - t ¼h 10 min -
pH 3,2 pH 3,2
Additives Additives
Exp.B1 Böhmer recipe (silk) 1
Water 40 mL (distilled) Water 40 mL (distilled) Water 40 mL (distilled) L* 45.29±0.02, a* 39.05±0.02, b* -7.67±0.03
Marseilles soap 10 % Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 10 % American cochineal
ºC 70 ºC 80 ↓ Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 70 ↓
t 30 min. t 2h - t ¼h 20 min -
pH 3,0 pH 4,2
Additives Additives
Exp. S0 Sandberg recipe (wool)
Water Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 20.61±0.01, a* 51.81±0.02, b* 35.39±0.02
Marseilles soap Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC ºC 90 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80
t t 1 h 24h t 1 h 2h
pH 3.0 pH 3.1
Additives 12 % tartar Additives
Exp. S1 Sandberg recipe (silk)
Water Water 20 mL (distilled) Water 20 mL (distilled) L* 46.52±0.01, a*41.92±0.02, b* 12.88±0.02
Marseilles soap Mordant 20 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC ºC 90 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 100 80
t
t 1 h 24h t 1 h 1h
pH 3,1 pH 3,4
Additives Additives 1 The dyed fibres were ultimately immersed into a 3% K2CO3 solution.
24
Dyeing experiments based on the work of Hacke (2006). Experiments on 0,4 g fibres Soap bath Mordanting Dyeing Results
Exp. H1 - silk
Water 100 mL (rain) Water 100 mL (rain) Water 80 mL (rain) L* 41.14±0.01, a* 35.60±0.04, b* 7.01±0.02
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80 ↓
t 30 min.
t 1 h 24 h t 1 h 2 h -
pH 3.2 pH 4.2
Additives 12.5 % NaCl + 187.5 % copper turnings Additives
19% gum Arabic + 19% oak galls + 187.5% copper turnings + 5.5% turmeric
Exp. H2 - Wool
Water 100 mL (rain) Water 100 mL (rain) Water 80 mL (rain) L* 19.47±0.01, a* 48.78±0.02, b* 28.12±0.04
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 8.03 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 100 Troom Dye bath
ºC 80 80 ↓
t 30 min.
t 2 h 24 h t 1 h 2 h -
pH 4.3 pH 5.1
Additives 5.23 % tartar + 2.3 % NaCl Additives 9.22 % starch + 3.12 % NaCl + 1.58 %
turmeric
Exp. H3 - Wool
Water 100 mL (rain) Water 100 mL (rain) Water 80 mL (rain) L* 24.15±0.05, a* 53.63±0.04, b* 21.06±0.10
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 8.03 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye bath
ºC 80 80 ↓
t 30 min.
t 2 h 24 h t 1 h 2 h -
pH 4.0 pH 4.9
Additives 5.23 % tartar + 2.3 % NaCl Additives 7.9 % gum arabic + 0.19% alum + 0.81% NaCl
Exp. H4 - Silk
Water 100 mL (rain) Water 100 mL (rain) Water 80 mL (distilled) L* 41.05±0.02, a* 41.94±0.05, b* -2.38±0.03
Marseilles soap 50 % Mordant 50 % alum Colourant 25 % American cochineal
ºC 80 ºC 80 Troom Dye extraction Dye bath
ºC 80 80 ↓
t 30 min.
t 1 h 24 h t 1 h 2 h -
pH 3.9 pH 3.4
Additives 12.5 % NaCl + 187.5 % copper turnings + 10 % tartar Additives
19% gum Arabic + 20% tartar + 187.5% copper turnings + 5.5% turmeric
25
BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES
- Böhmer, H., Enez, N., 2002, Koekboya, Natural Dyes and Textiles, A Colour Journey from
Turkey to India and Beyond, Ganderkesee, Remhöb-Verlag.
- Golikov, V., 2001a, “The technology of silk dyeing by cochineal. III. The experimental
investigation of the influences of pH, water quality, cream of tartar and oak galls”, Dyes in
History and Archaeology, 16/17, pp. 21 – 33.
- Golikov, V., 2001b, “The technology of silk dyeing by cochineal. II. The experimental
investigation of the influences of type and concentratins of cations”, Dyes in History and
Archaeology, 16/17, pp. 10–20.
- Hacke, A. M., 2006, Investigation into the Nature and Ageing of Tapestry Materials, PhD
Thesis, University of Manchester.
- Kirby, J., Bommel, M. van, Verhecken, A., 2014, Natural Colorants for Dyeing and Lake
Pigments - Practical Recipes and their Historical Sources, London, Archetype Publications.
- Sandberg, G., 1997, The Red Dyes, Cochineal, Madder, and Murex Purple - A World Tour of
Textile Techniques, Stockholm, Lark Books.
- Wouters, J., Verhecken, A., 1989, “The coccid insect dyes: HPLC and computerized diode-
array analysis of dyed yarns”, Studies in Conservation, 34, 4, pp. 189–200.
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