Apparel Quality Management~ Philip B. Crosby

8/10/2019 Apparel Quality Management~ Philip B. Crosby

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pphrnk quhkety

ahlhonanlt

Zfekep @. Grbs`y



Eltrbdugtebl

Zfekep @hyhrd "Zfek" Grbs`y, whs h ùselnssahl hld hutfbr wfb gbltreùtnd tb

ahlhonanlt tfnbry hld quhkety ahlhonanlt prhgtegns.

Grbs`y eletehtnd tfn ]nrb Dncngts prborha ht tfn Ahrtel Gbaphly. Hs tfn quhkety gbltrbk

ahlhonr bc tfn Znrsfelo aessekn prborha, Grbs`y whs grndetnd wetf h 0> pnrgnlt

rndugtebl el tfn bvnrhkk rnmngtebl rhtn hld h 7: pnrgnlt rndugtebl el sgrhp gbsts.

Zfekep @. Grbs`y whs `brl el _fnnkelo, _nst Seroeleh el 8503. @ntwnnl 8543 hld 8545,

Grbs`y httnldnd _nst Ke`nrty Wthtn Gbkknon hld Ghsn _nstnrl Pnsnrvn ^levnrsety.

Cbkkbwelo el 85>:, Grbs`y httnldnd tfn Bfeb Gbkknon bc Zbdehtry. Gblteluelo el fes

hghdnaeg phtf, fn gbltelund fes orhduhtn studens el 8534 ht tfn Eldustrehk Gbkknon bctfn Hrand Cbrgns. Celhkky, el 85?5, Grbs`y nsth`kesfnd tfn “Xuhkety Gbkknon‒ uldnr fes

lnw cera ZGH el Pusfabrn ^levnrsety.

Lbt blky ded Grbs`y cbgus bl hghdnaegs, fn hksb snrvnd el `btf __EE hld tfn Ibrnhl

_hr. Grbs`y‒s ghrnnr trhgi sthrtnd el 85>0 wfnl fn `nohl wbrielo cbr tfn Grbskny

Gbrp. hs hl Nkngtrbleg Tnst Tngflegehl wfnrn fn mbelnd tfn Hanreghl Wbgenty cbr

Xuhkety Gbltrbk. El 85>>, Grbs`y elvnsteohtnd dncngts hs h Xuhkety Nloelnnr cbr tfn

@nldex Gbrpbrhtebl. ‛]nrb Dncngts‑ whs nsth`kesfnd el 85>? hs Grbs`y whs wbrielo hs

h Xuhkety Nloelnnr cbr Ahrtel Ahrentth Gb. El 853>, Grbs`y abvnd tb ETT hs SegnZrnsednlt bc Gbrpbrhtn Xuhkety, el wfegf fn eapknanltnd fes ahlhonanlt pfekbsbpfy.

El 85?5, Zfekep Grbs`y cbuldnd Zfekep Grbs`y Hssbgehtns, wfegf thuoft ahlhonanlt

tnhas fbw tb ont tfelos dbln reoft tfn cerst tean. El 8558, Grbs`y rnternd, ùt lbt wetfbut

cbuldelo Ghrnnr ES Elg. prbvedelo kngturns hld snaelhrs rnohrdelo gbaphly orbwtf.

Grbs`y whs rngboleznd `y gbrpbrhtebls hrbuld tfn okb`n hs h "ouru" bc quhkety

ahlhonanlt, hld h ùselnss pfekbsbpfnr hld ellbvhtbr wfb gfhlond tfn why

brohlezhtebls snni tb hgfenvn ornhtnr nccegenlgy, rnkehèkety, hld prbcethèkety.

Grbs`y's cerst `bbi, Xuhkety es Crnn, fhs `nnl grndetnd wetf pkhyelo h khron phrt el`noellelo tfn quhkety rnvbkutebl el tfn ^letnd Wthtns hld Nurbpn. Fn pu`kesfnd h tbthk bc

87 `bbis, elgkudelo Tfn H`sbkutns bc Knhdnrsfep el 8553 hld Xuhkety hld An, hl

hutbèborhpfy cekknd wetf knssbls crba kecn pu`kesfnd el 8555.



Gbrs`y hld quhkety

Zfekep @ Grbs`y es ilbwl cbr tfn gblgnpts bc ‛Xuhkety es Crnn‑ hld ‛]nrb Dncngts‑, hld

fes quhkety eaprbvnanlt prbgnss es `hsnd bl fes cbur h`sbkutns bc quhkety=

Tfn Cerst H`sbkutn= tfn dnceletebl bc quhkety es gblcbrahlgn tb rnquernanlts , lbt

hs obbdlnss

Tfn sngbld h`sbkutn= tfn systna cbr ghuselo quhkety es prnvnltevn , lbt

hpprheshk.

Tfn tferd h`sbkutn= tfn pnrcbrahlgn sthldhrd aust `n znrb dncngt , lbt "tfht‒s

gkbsn nlbuof"

Tfn cburtf h`sbkutn= tfn anhsurnanlt bc quhkety es tfn pregn bc lblgblcbrahlgn

, lbt eldnxns.

Tfnsn h`sbkutns fnkp ahlhonanlt cbgus bl quhkety eaprbvnanlt hld, abrn

eapbrthltky, fnkp tfna ahin tfn sfect crba wfht Grbs`y ghkks gblvnlteblhk wesdba (tfn

ednh tfht ec quhkety obns up, sb dbns tfn gbst) tb tfn ednh tfht quhkety hld gbsts hrn lbt el

gbapntetebl wetf nhgf btfnr. Hggbrdelo tb Grbs`y, hs quhkety elgrnhsns, gbst dngrnhsns-

-tfus, quhkety dbnsl't gbst. Tfes rnhsblelo knd tb Grbs`y s chabus pfrhsn, Xuhkety es

crnn, ùt et es lbt h oect (Grbs`y, 85?5). Tb eapknanlt fes quhkety eaprbvnanlt prbgnss,

Grbs`y dnkelnhtns h 84-stnp hpprbhgf gblsestelo bc hgtevetens tfht hrn tfn rnspblseèkety

bc tbp ahlhonanlt, ùt hksb elvbkvn wbrinrs. Tfn 84 stnps rnprnsnlt Grbs`y s

tngflequns cbr ahlhoelo quhkety eaprbvnanlt hld gbaauleghtelo tfn cbur h`sbkutns.

Zrnvnltebl Zrbgnss Grbs`y's hpprbhgf hddrnssns prnvnltebl rhtfnr tfhl elspngtebl hldgbrrngtebl bc nrrbrs. Fn shys tfht prnvnltebl elvbkvns tfelielo, pkhllelo, hld hlhkyzelo

prbgnssns tb hltegephtn wfnrn nrrbrs gbukd bggur, hld tfnl thielo hgtebl tb innp tfna

crba bggurrelo. Tb Grbs`y, prb`knas usuhkky hresn `nghusn prbdugt br snrvegn

rnquernanlts hrn netfnr khgielo br el nrrbr. Fes prnvnltebl prbgnss `noels `y

nsth`kesfelo tfn prbdugt br snrvegn rnquernanlt, dnvnkbpelo tfn prbdugt br snrvegn,

ohtfnrelo dhth, gbaphrelo tfn dhth tb tfn rnquernanlt, hld thielo hgtebl bl tfn rnsukt.

Grbs`y suoonsts tfes es h gblteluelo hgtevety. Xuhkety Shggeln Grbs`y snns prb`knas hs

`hgtnreh bc lblgblcbrahlgn tfht aust `n vhggelhtnd wetf hlte`bdens tb prnvnlt

prb`knas (Grbs`y, 8564). Fn fhs cbraukhtnd h quhkety vhggeln tfht gblsests bc tfrnn

destelgt ahlhonanlt hgtebls--dntnraelhtebl, ndughtebl, hld eapknanlthtebl. Tbp

ahlhonanlt es rnspblse`kn cbr gblteluhkky hdaelestnrelo tfn vhggeln. Dntnraelhtebl

surchgns wfnl ahlhonanlt snns tfn lnnd tb nxgfhlon hld rngbolezns tfht gfhlon

rnquerns ahlhonanlt hgtebl. Ndughtebl es tfn prbgnss bc prbvedelo hkk napkbynns wetf

tfn gbaabl khlouhon bc quhkety, fnkpelo tfna tb uldnrsthld wfht tfner rbkn es el tfn

quhkety eaprbvnanlt prbgnss, hs wnkk hs fnkpelo tfna tb dnvnkbp h ilbwkndon `hsn cbr



prnvnltelo prb`knas. Tfn tferd hgtebl es eapknanlthtebl, wfegf gblsests bc tfn

dnvnkbpanlt bc h pkhl, tfn hsseolanlt bc rnsburgns, hld tfn suppbrt bc hl nlverblanlt

gblsestnlt wetf h quhkety eaprbvnanlt pfekbsbpfy. El tfes pfhsn, ahlhonanlt aust knhd

`y nxhapkn hld prbvedn cbkkbw-up ndughtebl. Wex G's Tb Grbs`y, ndughtebl es h aukte-

sthon prbgnss tfht nvnry brohlezhtebl aust ob tfrbuof, h prbgnss fn ghkks tfn Wex G's

(Grbs`y, 8564). Tfn cerst sthon, br G, es gbaprnfnlsebl, wfegf hddrnssns tfn

eapbrthlgn bc uldnrsthldelo wfht es anhlt `y quhkety. Gbaprnfnlsebl aust `noel ht

tfn tbp hld nvnltuhkky elgkudn hkk napkbynns. _etfbut gbaprnfnlsebl, quhkety

eaprbvnanlt wekk lbt bggur. Tfn sngbld G es gbaaetanlt, wfegf hksb aust `noel ht tfn

tbp hld rnprnsnlts tfn sthon wfnl ahlhonrs nsth`kesf h quhkety pbkegy. Tfn tferd es

gbapntnlgn9 dnvnkbpelo hl ndughtebl hld trhelelo pkhl durelo tfes sthon es greteghk tb

eapknanltelo tfn quhkety eaprbvnanlt prbgnss el h antfbdeghk why. Tfn cburtf G es

gbaauleghtebl9 hkk nccbrts aust `n dbguanltnd hld suggnss stbrens pu`kesfnd sb tfht

gbapkntn uldnrsthldelo bc quhkety `y hkk pnbpkn el tfn gbrpbrhtn gukturn es hgfenvnd. Tfn

cectf es gbrrngtebl, wfegf cbgusns bl prnvnltebl hld pnrcbrahlgn. Celhkky, tfn sextf esgblteluhlgn, wfegf napfhsezns tfht tfn prbgnss aust `ngban h why bc kecn el tfn

brohlezhtebl. Gblteluhlgn es `hsnd bl tfn chgt tfht et es lnvnr gfnhpnr br queginr tb db

hlytfelo reoft tfn sngbld tean, sb quhkety aust `n eltnorhtnd eltb hkk dhy-tb-dhy

bpnrhtebls

Fes cburtnnl stnps tb quhkety eaprbvnanlt hrn=

Ahlhonanlt es gbaaettnd tb h cbrahkesnd quhkety pbkegy

Cbra h ahlhonanlt knvnk quhkety eaprbvnanlt tnha (XET) wetf rnspblseèkety cbrquhkety eaprbvnanlt prbgnss pkhllelo hld hdaelestrhtebl

Dntnraeln wfnrn gurrnlt hld pbtnltehk quhkety prb`knas ken

Nvhkuhtn tfn gbst bc quhkety hld nxpkhel ets usn hs h ahlhonanlt tbbk tb

anhsurn whstn

Phesn quhkety hwhrnlnss hld pnrsblhk gblgnrl cbr quhkety hablost hkk

napkbynns

Thin gbrrngtevn hgtebls, uselo nsth`kesfnd cbrahk systnas tb rnabvn tfn rbbt

ghusns bc prb`knas

Nsth`kesf h znrb dncngts gbaaettnn hld prborhaan Trhel hkk napkbynns el quhkety eaprbvnanlt

Fbkd h ]nrb Dncngts Dhy tb `rbhdghst tfn gfhlon hld hs h ahlhonanlt

rngbaaetanlt hld napkbynn gbaaetanlt

Nlgburhon eldeveduhks hld orbups tb snt eaprbvnanlt obhks

Nlgburhon napkbynns tb gbaauleghtn tb ahlhonanlt hly b`sthgkns tfny chgn

el htthelelo tfner eaprbvnanlt obhks



Oevn cbrahk rngboletebl tb hkk phrtegephlts

Nsth`kesf quhkety gbulgeks cbr quhkety ahlhonanlt elcbrahtebl sfhrelo

Db et hkk bvnr hohel ‗ cbra h lnw quhkety eaprbvnanlt tnha

Tb Grbs`y, quhkety anhls gblcbrahlgn tb rnquernanlts (Grbs`y, 85?5). Xuhketyaust `n dncelnd el anhsurh`kn hld gknhrky sthtnd tnras tb fnkp tfn brohlezhtebl thin

hgtebl `hsnd bl thloe`kn thronts, rhtfnr tfhl bl fulgf, nxpnrenlgn, br bpelebls. Tb

Grbs`y, quhkety es netfnr prnsnlt br lbt prnsnlt. Tfnrn es lb sugf tfelo hs deccnrelo knvnks

bc quhkety. Ahlhonanlt aust anhsurn quhkety `y gblteluhkky trhgielo tfn gbst bc dbelo

tfelos wrblo. Grbs`y rncnrs tb tfes hs tfn pregn bc lblgblcbrahlgn. Tb hed ahlhonrs el

trhgielo tfn gbst bc dbelo tfelos wrblo, fn dnvnkbpnd tfn cbkkbwelo cbraukh= Gbst bc

Xuhkety (GBX) 1 Zregn bc Gblcbrahlgn (ZBG) + Zregn bc Lblgblcbrahlgn (ZBLG). Tfn

ZBG rncnrs tb tfn gbst bc onttelo tfelos dbln reoft tfn cerst tean. ZBLG prbvedns

ahlhonanlt wetf elcbrahtebl rnohrdelo tfn whstnd gbst hld h vese`kn eldeghtebl bc

prbornss hs tfn brohlezhtebl eaprbvns.

Tfn cbuldhtebl bc Grbs`y's hpprbhgf es prnvnltebl. Fes hpprbhgf tb quhkety es `nst

dnsgre`nd `y tfn cbkkbwelo gblgnpts= (8) Db Et Peoft tfn Cerst Tean9 (0) ]nrb Dncngts hld

]nrb Dncngts Dhy9 (7) tfn Cbur H`sbkutns bc Xuhkety9 (4) tfn Zrnvnltebl Zrbgnss9 (>) tfn

Xuhkety Shggeln9 hld (3) tfn Wex G's. Db Et Peoft tfn Cerst Tean Grbs`y s hpprbhgf

cbgusns bl dbelo tfelos reoft tfn cerst tean hld nvnry tean. Tfnrn es lb pkhgn el fes

pfekbsbpfy cbr deccnrelo knvnks bc quhkety br ghtnobrens bc quhkety (n.o., feof/kbw,

obbd/pbbr). Fn `nkenvns tfnrn sfbukd `n lb rnhsbl cbr pkhllelo hld elvnstelo elstrhtnoens tfht hrn dnseolnd el ghsn sbantfelo dbns lbt gblcbra tb rnquernanlts hld

obns wrblo. Fn strnssns tfht tfn why tb ahlhon quhkety es `y prnvnltebl, lbt dntngtebl

hld tnstelo. Tb Grbs`y, hly prbdugt tfht chkks wetfel ets dnseol spngeceghtebls es h quhkety

prbdugt (Ohrvel & Ahrgf, 8563). Grbs`y hddrnssns tfn lnnd tb gfhlon ahlhonanlt's

pnrgnptebl bc hld httetudns h`but quhkety. Fn fhs cbuld et es h gbaabl httetudn hablo

ahlhonrs tb `nkenvn tfht nrrbr es elnveth`kn, et es h lbrahk phrt bc ùselnss kecn, hld bln

lnnds tb gbpn wetf et. Fn `nkenvns ahlhonanlt grnhtns abst bc ets prb`knas tfrbuof ets

httetudns hld prhgtegns el tnras bc wfht es rnwhrdnd hld suppbrtnd el hl brohlezhtebl.

Cbr nxhapkn, ec hdfnrnlgn tb sgfndukn es rnelcbrgnd bvnr quhkety, tfnl sgfndukn wekk

`ngban tfn cbgus bc tfn wbri. ]nrb Dncngts hld ]nrb Dncngts Dhy Tfn ukteahtn obhk bc

fes quhkety eaprbvnanlt prbgnss es ]nrb Dncngts br dncngt-crnn" prbdugts hld snrvegns.

Gbltrhry tb wfht es onlnrhkky `nkenvnd, ]nrb Dncngts es lbt must h abtevhteblhk skbohl,

ùt hl httetudn hld gbaaetanlt tb prnvnltebl. ]nrb Dncngts dbns lbt anhl tfht tfn

prbdugt fhs tb `n pnrcngt. Et dbns anhl tfht nvnry eldeveduhk el tfn brohlezhtebl es

gbaaettnd tb annt tfn rnquernanlt tfn cerst tean, nvnry tean, hld tfht lbt anntelo tfn



rnquernanlt es lbt hggnpth`kn. Tb ont nvnrybln elvbkvnd el tfn prbgnss bc quhkety

eaprbvnanlt, Grbs`y strnssns eldeveduhk gblcbrahlgn tb rnquernanlts. Tb Grbs`y,

wfnl pnbpkn hrn hsind tb db et reoft tfn cerst tean, rnquernanlts hrn tfn et (Grbs`y,

856?). Fes hpprbhgf prbvedns cbr tfn nsth`kesfanlt bc h ]nrb Dncngts Dhy, h dhy tfht

prbvedns h cbrua cbr ahlhonanlt tb rnhccera ets gbaaetanlt tb quhkety hld hkkbws

napkbynns tb ahin tfn shan gbaaetanlt.



Grbs`y dnvnkbpnd vhrebus quhkety anhsurns hld stnps thielo elsperhtebl crba fes kecn

hld wbri hld dnvnkbpnd fes quhkety ahltrh‒s hld tfes ghl `n snnl crba hl nxtrhgt crba

fes `bbi





gblgkusebl

Grbs`y's ahel pbelt es tfht quhkety es hgfenvnd `y prnvnltelo dncngts hld gblcbraelo tb

rnquernanlts. Pnquernanlts aust `n hornnd Bln bc Grbs`y s strnlotfs es fes napfhses

bl trhlscbraelo tfn gukturn bc tfn brohlezhtebl. Fn prbvedns h strugturnd rbhdahp cbr

htthelelo ahlhonanlt gbaaetanlt. Fn hdvbghtns eldeveduhk gbaaetanlt tb quhkety ht

nhgf knvnk bc tfn brohlezhtebl. Grbs`y prbvedns ndughtebl bl tfn gblgnpts bc quhkety

ahlhonanlt, ùt rnhkezns tfht nhgf brohlezhtebl aust grnhtn ets bwl quhkety

eaprbvnanlt prbgnss pkhl. Fes hpprbhgf es nccngtevn el trhlsaettelo tfn lnnd tb gfhlon

httetudns hld `nfhvebrs hld fhs `nnl suggnsscuk el onttelo brohlezhtebls sthrtnd--bln

rnhsbl wfy Grbs`y hppnhks tb ahly ahlhonrs. Wngbld, Grbs`y fhs h strugturnd

trhelelo prborha cbr ahlhonrs tfht es thuoft ht tfn Xuhkety Gbkknon. Ahly ahlhonrs

onlnrhkky celd tfes hpprbhgf nhsy tb su`sgre`n tb hld tfnrncbrn gfbbsn tb `noel quhkety

eaprbvnanlt uselo Grbs`y's hpprbhgf. Fes hpprbhgf napfhsezns anhsurelo tfn gbst bc

dbelo tfelos wrblo vnrsus tfn gbst bc dbelo tfelos reoft tfn cerst tean hld dbns lbtnapfhsezn h sthtesteghk `hses cbr rndugtebl bc vhrehtebl. Hs h rnsukt, brohlezhtebls tfht db

lbt cbgus bl sthtesteghk antfbds ahy lbt `n h`kn tb hgfenvn eaprbvnanlts `nybld eletehk

gbst rndugtebls.

Hggbrdelo tb Hldrnh Oh`br, hutfbr bc Tfn Ahl _fb Desgbvnrnd Xuhkety, "^ltek rngnltky

(855:), Grbs`y dbwlpkhynd tfn rbkn bc sthtestegs. Hctnr Dnaelo's pbpukhrety ohvn lnw

grndnlgn tb tfner eapbrthlgn bc vhrehtebl gbltrbk el tfn khtn 856:s, Grbs`y es shed tb

fhvn `noul tnhgfelo abrn bc tfn su`mngt ht fes snaelhrs (Oh`br, 855:, pp. 853-85?)."

El chgt, Grbs`y cbuldnd Eltnorety Wystnas, Elg., h su`sedehry bc ZGH, tb prbvedn gkenlts

wetf trhelelo phgihons el sthtesteghk prbgnss gbltrbk. Grbs`y hdvbghtns prborhas sugfhs ]nrb Dncngts Dhy, wfegf fhs `nnl wednky aesuldnrstbbd hld venwnd `y sban gretegs

hs anrnky h abtevhteblhk prborha wetf blky sfbrt-tnra `nlncets. Hohel, "]nrb Dncngts

Dhy" es eltnldnd tb `n h tean wfnl ahlhonanlt rnhcceras ets gbaaetanlt tb quhkety hld

napkbynns aust ilbw fbw tb hgfenvn tfna. Tfn ablnthry gbst bc quhkety es tfn cbgus bc

anhsurnanlt, hld fn dnvnkbpnd h cbraukh tb fnkp ahlhonrs trhgi tfes gbst. Tfes

cbraukh prbvedns cbr gbltelubusky anhsurelo tfn gbst bc whstn vnrsus tfn kbwnr gbst bc

dbelo tfelos reoft tfn cerst tean, wfegf es fes pnrcbrahlgn sthldhrd. Fn urons hgtevetens

(n.o., ]nrb Dncngts Dhy) wfnrn ahlhonanlt hld napkbynns rnhccera tfner gbaaetanlt

tb quhkety. Fes trhelelo prborha cbgusns bl fnkpelo ahlhonrs dnvnkbp hl brohlezhteblhk

gukturn tfht cbgusns bl quhkety. Tfn ukteahtn obhk bc fes hpprbhgf es tb prbvedn dncngt-crnn prbdugts hld snrvegns tb tfn gustbanrs.



Pncnrnlgns

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fttp=//www.4rgs.gba/grbs`y.ftak

fttp=//hsq.bro/h`but-hsq/wfb-wn-hrn/èbRgrbs`y.ftak

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Apparel Quality Management~ Philip B. Crosby