Apparel Internship Report-hop

8/11/2019 Apparel Internship Report-hop

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APPAREL INTERNSHIPREPORT

A Dissertation Submitted to

National Institute of Fashion Technology

New Delhi, (Ministry of Textiles)(In the Partial Fulfilment of the requirement for the award of Degree)

Master of Fashion Technology

Sponsored By

PEARL GLOBAL LTD

Submitted by :

Kapil Kumar

M.F. TECHIII

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TEHNOLOGY

NEW DELHI


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Through this project report I would like to thank numerous people whose consistent support and

guidance has been the standing pillar in architecture of this project. To begin with, my sincere

thanks to the management of NIFT for giving this opportunity to experience and learn the processes

practiced in Apparel Industry.

For the completion of this document I would like to thank Mr. Sunil Motwani (Associate Professor,

department of Fashion Technology, NIFT) for being my mentor and my guide throughout the

project.

I would like to express my sincere thanks to the Management and staff of PEARL GLOBAL LTD,

Gurgaon for their outstanding Support and cooperation in my efforts to gain knowledge about the

practical aspects of Apparel industries during the Internship.

I am thankful to Mr. Pradeep Yadav (Sr. Production manager), Mr. Abhinaov Dhain(), Mr.

Dharmender Sharma (Sr. HR manager) for the guidance and planning out the schedule for the

internship.

I would like to grab this opportunity to express my sincere gratitude to Ms. Saumya sharma

(Merchandiser),Ms. Ruchi sardana (Merchandiser), Mr. Santosh for guiding me through all the

processes involved in the processing of the fabric and was patient enough to answer all my doubts

and queries.

I would specially like to thank all the staff members and workers for helping me throughout the

internship. Without their support, it would have been difficult job to successfully complete the

training.

Kapil Kumar


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Declaration

I hereby declare that the work presented in the project report submitted to the Department of

Fashion Technology for the partial fulfillment of the requirement for the award of Degree of

Master of fashion technology is an authentic record of my work carried out at PEARL

GLOBAL LIMITED, GURGAON for a period of 12 weeks from 31stmay 2011 to 23rd Aug 2011 asper my curriculum requirement..

The matter embodied in this project report has not been submitted elsewhere by anybody for the

award of any degree.

Kapil Kumar(11)

MFTech, 3rd SEM,(2010-2011 batch)

Nift, New Delhi.

([email protected])
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]


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EXECUTIVE SUMMERY

In the past two decades, the Indian textile industry in terms of home textile, garments and

accessories have a witnessed a complete transformation in terms of quality, market and product

development as well as the expansion, In this scenario export house plays the major role in the

growth and conduct of exports. Looking from this perspective pearl global is a very good and

important organization in its work.

Internship at pearl global limited has been a great exposure the practical application of my learning.

I gained knowledge about actual work culture of the company and how to deal with the people at

workplace.

I did my internship in Production, IE, merchandising and sampling department; also I followed up

production styles and collected data from different departments for wastage estimation in 3 differentstyles.

OBJECTIVE

Objective of the study is to learn about the functioning of export house and working of various

departments particularly production, merchandising and sampling, earning knowledge about

different departments of the company, their function and information flow during work and wastage

happening in each department and suggestive measures to reduce them.

DATA COLLECTION METHOD

I collectedthis by following method-

Personal interview from various departments

Close observation during work

internal data from various departments

And secondary data was collected from the official websites and manuals of pearl global limited.


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TABLE OF CONTENT

S.no. Topic PAGE NO.

1

i. Acknowledgement

ii. Declaration

iii. Executive summary

Introduction

1.1 Brief history

1.2 Philosophy

1.3 Values and objective

1.4 Quality and excellence

1.5 Product mix

1.6 Production mix

1.7 Production capacity

1.8 Clients

1.9 Business divisions

Design and development

Manufacturing

Sourcing

Marketing

Logistics and warehousing

1.10 Swot analysis(PGL)

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2 DEPARTMENTS IN PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED

2.1 Designing department

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2.2 Testing department

2.3 Trims department

2.4 Fabric sourcing department

2.5 Fabric storage department

2.6 Outsourcing department

2.7 Sampling department

2.8 Cad department

2.9 Production department

Cutting and bundling department

Sewing department

Washing department

Pressing department

Finishing department

Packing department

2.10 Inspections department

2.11 Human resource department

2.12 Marketing/merchandising department

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3PROJECT

3.1 waste minimization

3.1.1. objective

3.1.2. Research methodology

3.1.3. literature review

3.1.4. case study: fabric wastage estimation

3.1.5.case study: cutting loss analysis

3.1.6. case study: Lost time calculation

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3.1.7 Maintenance department analysis.

3.1.8. production department analysis.

3.2. Rework Reduction

3.2.1. objective

3.2.2. research methodology

3.2.3. literature review

3.2.4. existing quality checkpoints

3.2.5. Defect analysis

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4Conclusion

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5 Bibliography 74

6Annexure

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1.INTRODUCTION

1.1 BRIEF HISTORY:-Pearl Global was incorporated in 1979, business began in the 1980s, and its

first manufacturing facility was establishes in 1989.In 1993 it was become a public limited

company. The company structure of pearl global is extremely unique, as it includes all part of

garment industry under the House of Pearl.

A multinational ready to wear apparel business: They currently operate in 11 strategic locations

& six continents, leveraging the strengths of each country in creating a strong value for their

clients.

It offers full services to large retailers with the chain broken into the business unit that cater todifferent product lines. The House of Pearl includes designing and manufacturing units,

marketing units in the U.S. and warehouse & distribution and the U.K.

Its operation in Bangladesh(NorPearl and NorPlanet) focus on more simple sourcing and

manufacturing while its offices in India focus on the sourcing and manufacturing of ethnic theyar

(more production intensive complicated clothing). It also has business in Hong Kong and UK. The

chairman of Pearl Global established a Fashion and Design academy Pearl Fashion Academy. The

company entered into a business and education partnership with Babson college in US. He has

actively involved with the development of readymade garment industry in India. He has

successfully established and promoted the fashion apparel brandLerros in Europe.

Own brands in the USA: - They manage two brands Kool Hearts, DCC in the United States of

America. The brand Kool Hearts focuses on the young fashion, where as the focus of DCC is more

towards Missy segment.


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1.2. Organisation Structure

Management team at PGL

Name Designation

Ashutosh P Bhupatkar Director

Ashwani Palaha COO

Deepak Seth Chairman / Chair Person

Pankaj Bhasin Vice President

Prakash Prusty Company Secretary

Prakash Prusty Secretary

Pulkit Seth CEO

Pulkit Seth Managing Director

Rajeev Anand Vice President

Sanjay Jhangala VP (OPR) Production

Sanjay Pershad Whole Time Director

Vinay Arora VP (Marketing)

Organization chart of JC PENNY.

Mr. Pulkit Seth (MD)

Mr. Pankaj Bhasin (GM)

Mr. Ashish Garg(AGM)

Mr. Abhinaov Dhain (Senior merchandiser)

Ms. Saumya Sharma Ms. Ruchi Sardana

(Asst. Merchandiser) (Asst. Merchandiser)


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1.3.PHILOSOPHY

They strongly believe that growth and prosperity of their business depends on developing an

integrated global community of motivated and innovative members.

Provide adequate support to the employees to perform to their fullest potential by providing

proper direction, arranging for training, supplying the necessary resources, maintaining a safe

working environment and removing unnecessary barriers to performance.

Enhance the skills of their employees, in light of the Groups markets and development goals

drawing strength from the diverse cultures for career growth in India and abroad.

Allow the employees with entrepreneurial spirit to achieve their dreams using the freedom and

flexibility provided for organizational effectiveness by promoting teamwork between groups and

work units strengthening the Groups identity and unity.

Reward the employees for their contributions and respect their dignity and honesty.

Look at our employees as our assets and partners in contributing to growth and in the ongoing

process of improving the systems and procedures ofthe company.

1.4.VALUES AND OBJECTIVE

House of Pearl believes that any business conduct can be ethical only when it rests on the nine

core values of Honesty, Integrity, Fairness, Respect, Trust, Purposefulness, Responsibility,

Citizenship and Caring.

The essence of these commitments is that each employee conducts the Companys business with

integrity, in compliance with applicable laws and in a manner that excludes considerations of

personal advantage.

They do not lose sight of these values under any circumstances, regardless of the goals they have

to achieve. For them, the means are as important as the ends.

1.5. QUALITY AND EXCELLENCE

They care about, Quality and Excellence, Health, Safety and Environment, Human Resource

Development, Energy Conservation, Corporate Citizenship.

They have dedicated teams of Quality Assurance & Quality Control.


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Industrial Engineering Cells.

Compliance Teams.

These Teams ensure that all their factories produce world class quality products across all the

product categories.

In addition their sourcing offices have in house testing labs to ensure international standards for

fabric, yarn and garments.

1.6. PRODUCT MIX

INDIA: Woven cotton and value-added cotton, ethnic wear including blouses, t-shirts, bottoms, skirts,

children dresses.

BANGLADESH: Low cost basic stuff, Wal Mart, Nor Pearl, Nor Planet Pearl Global has manufactured

womens, childrens and mens shirts, vests, trousers, shorts, nightwear dresses suits and outerwear, stain

sealed garment using Goerge etc.

1.7. PRODUCTION MIX:-

Pearl Global uses an assembly line system. They use assembly line system because they receive

different type of value added order from different buyer, so assembly line system is helpful for

handling of this type of orders, because every style has different number of operation, so the

arrange assembly lines according to need of style. Sometime they use zigzag assembly line system.

Style that comes in production is already approved by buyers through sampling.

1.8. PRODDUCTION CAPACITY:-

Pearl Global has 20 million pieces in-house capacity and 120 million pieces capacity all across Asia.

Pearl global has approximately 3500 workers in unit 446.


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1.9. CLIENTS
http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.krys-corpus.eu/DCC_logo.png&imgrefurl=http://www.krys-corpus.eu/&usg=__z-mF2q_RZuX998i4HpfD6-e8TMc=&h=138&w=662&sz=14&hl=en&start=14&itbs=1&tbnid=zzzB_z5P7gjfhM:&tbnh=29&tbnw=138&prev=/images?q=logo+DCC&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://promo.marketwire.com/bnr/images/loblaws-logo.gif&imgrefurl=http://promo.marketwire.com/bnr/mw/marketloblaws.html&usg=__IQK1z_Nfn97-P30GKpzEoNNwRqE=&h=162&w=320&sz=15&hl=en&start=5&itbs=1&tbnid=DIgQTMPvHqPAiM:&tbnh=60&tbnw=118&prev=/images?q=logo+loblaws&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.leadershipcharlotte.org/customers/106060509291370/misc_files/BelkLogoNEW.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.leadershipcharlotte.org/partners.html&usg=__1sYCaVjJ9iHJDY3KNwnFWr9Mapk=&h=300&w=720&sz=40&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=ggAOn9fWyHOSOM:&tbnh=58&tbnw=140&prev=/images?q=logo+Belk&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.shdongxia.cn/image/f_link/logo_esprit.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.shdongxia.cn/hz_e.html&usg=__H6ovCPaIy7kllrQdytPMJxGM7aE=&h=298&w=595&sz=50&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=ntKs0bmK4jposM:&tbnh=68&tbnw=135&prev=/images?q=logo+Esprit&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://retail.franchiseindia.com/images/news/marks-and-spencer-logo1117.jpg&imgrefurl=http://news.franchiseindia.com/retail/Thanks-to-Christmas-Marks-and-Spencer-records-growth-in-sales-1117/&usg=__yRrsnRP5-Dm1VvBt_MbdCXHMYiY=&h=180&w=300&sz=12&hl=en&start=3&itbs=1&tbnid=mw3A85mw7ywsYM:&tbnh=70&tbnw=116&prev=/images?q=logo+Marks+and+Spencer&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.wssc.co.uk/imgs/logo-george.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.wssc.co.uk/whatshere.php&usg=__KtFeoF6cj1gkvn_2-oTbw5T9bmo=&h=60&w=130&sz=2&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=Bi03J9eeYuSFcM:&tbnh=42&tbnw=91&prev=/images?q=logO+George&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.taxresolution.com/blog/images/Inc_Magazine_Logo%20for%20Web.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.taxresolution.com/blog/tax-problems-and-twitter-tax-resolution-services-featured-in-inc-magazine/&usg=__mjUHN9iqcX3ychaY18TFtEmBrdk=&h=283&w=576&sz=66&hl=en&start=5&itbs=1&tbnid=rJVqSVqUoLk98M:&tbnh=66&tbnw=134&prev=/images?q=logO+Inc.&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.aladream25.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/abercrombie-and-fitch-logo-moose.jpg&imgrefurl=http://hollister1.glogster.com/Abercrombie-and-Abercrombie-and-Fitch/&usg=__mhI--HzblsuHX8E2FNe_mdXKYQM=&h=375&w=500&sz=169&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=R265OOmOdb1jZM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=130&prev=/images?q=logO+Abercrombie+&+Fitch&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.classymommy.com/blog/uploaded_images/Old-Navy-Logo-729323.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.classymommy.com/blog/2009/08/old-navy-200-gift-card-giveaway.html&usg=__cWZhldjDuTwj_HCLdL4cxOqplUQ=&h=300&w=910&sz=100&hl=en&start=2&itbs=1&tbnid=uzFn3VoYjxUI4M:&tbnh=48&tbnw=147&prev=/images?q=logO+Old+Navy&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.needtovent.com/files/images/macy-thanksgiving-2009/macys_logo.png&imgrefurl=http://www.needtovent.com/movie-reviews/macy-s-thanksgiving-day-parade----2009.html&usg=__vfiayb21_q8AdPAph57U7b84xLo=&h=504&w=419&sz=17&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=WcMEsXnEiMutfM:&tbnh=130&tbnw=108&prev=/images?q=logo+Macys&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.seeklogo.com/images/L/lerros-logo-E6571F17AB-seeklogo.com.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.seeklogo.com/category.html?q=L&Page=94&usg=__Dr9U7Thqbx1Y1jgSi5WQZnRumys=&h=200&w=200&sz=4&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=J94IY_ppzwAb1M:&tbnh=104&tbnw=104&prev=/images?q=logo+LERROS&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.esquire.com/cm/esquire/images/kohls-logo-0908-lg-66124179.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.esquire.com/style/chain-stores-0908&usg=__RM8qIyTirb0h7pKKPOYmvrOMXgg=&h=240&w=240&sz=11&hl=en&start=2&itbs=1&tbnid=creptSvDo3pSuM:&tbnh=110&tbnw=110&prev=/images?q=logo+Kohl%E2%80%99s&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.factory-outlet-stores.info/images/com_sobi2/clients/4441_banana_republic_factory_store_wa_img.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.factory-outlet-stores.info/waipahu/banana-republic-factory-store.html&usg=__jHK__LrwZZGKtQ00ybb6fyjpqic=&h=260&w=260&sz=6&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=6tqahEVtl4ijuM:&tbnh=112&tbnw=112&prev=/images?q=logo+Banana+republic&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://login.totalweblite.com/Clients/style/stc.jpghttp://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/5/52/H&M_logo.svg/730px-H&M_logo.svg.png&imgrefurl=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:H&M_logo.svg&usg=__mYHqPgV4wcNlSErRX9pK3g5_k3g=&h=485&w=730&sz=37&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=-uJwG2lXPPHeXM:&tbnh=94&tbnw=141&prev=/images?q=logo+H+and+M&hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1http://m.blog.hu/he/hestyle/image/gap_logo.jpghttp://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=ht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1.9. BUSINESS DIVISIONS

1.9.1. DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT

In-house expertise for designing needs:Over 30 designers working across the group constantly

providing latest design inputs on latest design trends internationally. Presentation of product ideas

from across the globe gives the buyer a sense of cross-country styles of trends.

Dedicated fabric development and sampling unit in China and India.

Dedicated Design and Product Development facilities at each manufacturing location:- The

Group has product development capabilities in all categories such as Woven, Knits, Sweaters,

Bottoms which covers the entire range of products across all genders.

Creating a talent pool:- The promoters have also set up a premier fashion institute, Pearl

Academy of Fashions in India with an objective to train professionals who will serve and

eventually lead Indias fashion industry. The Company absorbs the best talent and also creates a

pool for the garment industry globally.

1.9.2. MANUFACTURING

They currently operate ten modern ready to wear apparel manufacturing facilities, of which seven

are located in India, two in Bangladesh and one in Indonesia. This enables them to leverage

relative strengths of each location and offer a wide range of product offerings to their clients.

Multi country presence also helps in diversifying the risks attached to each country.

Each factory specializes in a particular product range. The broad range of products that they offer

includes :-

Ladies tops, Dresses, T-shirts, Denims, Polos, Knits & Woven, Casual Pants and Sweaters etc.The present in-house manufacturing capacity of the company is thirty million pc. per annum

spread over more than 725,000 sq feet of built up area with efficiently designed layouts to ensure

smooth flow of materials. They are planning to double their capacity expanding their operations in

Chennai, Bangladesh & Indonesia.

They follow best practices in manufacturing, which ensures quality products are delivered on

consistent basis.


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Their units are approved by some of top retailers of the world; likes of The Gap, Inc., J.C Penney,

Next, Liz Claiborne, Esprit.

They follow ethical practices and full compliance to regulations prevailing in the country, they

operate.

1.9.3. SOURCING

Hong Kong is one of the biggest hubs for garment sourcing across the world. Their sourcing arm,

Norwest Industries aims to leverage its presence in this region to maximize its business volumes

and margins. To strengthen its sourcing capability credentials, over the years, Norwest set up

sourcing offices

Norwest Industries Ltd., Shanghai, China

Norwest Industries Ltd., Bangalore, India

Norwest Industries Ltd., New Delhi, India

Norwest Industries Ltd., Dacca, Bangladesh

Zamira Fashions Ltd., Hong Kong

These offices specialize in products, merchandising and QA teams directly coordinating

production with third party factories on a day to day basis to ensure quality and timely delivery of

customer orders.

1.9.4. MARKETING

Integrated marketing and merchandising teams in Canada, Europe, HK, UK, US and India closely

interacting with existing and potential customers at their doorstep

Designers are sharing ideas on an ongoing basis. The close interaction with customers gives

them the vital edge.

Distribution companies fully backed by strong sourcing and logistics facilities

The group identified as a strategic vendor by major retailers

Branded business in USA with brands DCC and Kool Hearts, DCC Women's focuses on

Missy segment, Kool Hearts is targeting Young Fashion segment

1.9.5.LOGISTICS AND WAREHOUSING


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Warehousing, Logistics and distribution infrastructure in the UK and the US

Services offered - Logistics and Transportation, Garment processing, Ironing and storage,

Quality control and Reverse Logistics

Capability to perform a range of pre retailing processes on garments which can be

delivered ready to be placed on customer's store shelves

Can handle up to 5M pieces of garments per month

The warehouses are connected to the inventory management system of the customer that

facilitate daily and weekly order pickings and ensures timely delivery.

1.10. SWOT ANALYSIS(PGL)

Strengths:

Effective management

Wide sampling room

Organised workforce

Good inter and intradepartmental communication

Good financial base of house of pearl

International business presence

Good infrastructure

Centralised merchandising

Weaknesses:

High overtime cost

High sampling cost

Absence of dyeing and embroidery department

Opportunities:

International presence

Low labour cost comparing to buying countries

Incentives and support from government for export oriented units.

Threats:

Low cost by china

High Competitive environment

Increase in labour cost due to increment in minimum wages by Haryana government


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2. DEPARTMENTS IN PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED

2.1. DESIGNING DEPARTMENT

This department is basically involved in making the samples for fetching of orders. These samples

are marketing promotion samples because these samples may not have any specific request from

anyone but would be made from inputs from various sources like:

Information about latest trends, inventions, in the field fashion, fabrics, accessories etc

Styling according to season, gender, age group, category etc

Past experiences from buyers selling patterns and market response etc

Can be selected for production with modification

Mainly to inspire them directing them to a new trend

They make samples and show these samples in buyers meeting then buyer choose some sample

according to their need with modification if required, and gives order for development samples.

2.2. TESTING DEPARTMENT

Pearl Global has its own testing lab for some tests these are

Fabric count and construction

Color matching with the help of spectrometer

PH testing

Color fastness to washing

Color fastness to crocking (rubbing)

Appearance to washing

Shrinkage testing

GSM checking

2.3. TRIMS DEPARTMENT

After confirmation of purchase order, Merchant gives the trim sheet to department manager Mr.

Sachin for sourcing of trims. He gives the order to different suppliers and after getting Performa

invoice, he decide for purchase order to particular supplier, sometime supplier are nominated by

the buyers especially in terms of threads, zippers and labels. He gives order of required quantity

+5%extra for wastage.


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PROCESS FLOW CHART

LEAD TIME:-

For button 12-15 days

Lace 12-15 days

Labels 7-10 days (Mostly Nominated supplier)

REQUISITION FOR THE TRIMS

COLLECT ORDER DETAILS

ORDER CONFIRMATION

PERFORMA INVOICE

TRIMS BOOKING

COUNTER SAMPLE APPROVAL

ORDER IN BULK

TRIMS IN HOUSE

RECEIVING OF TRIM SHEET FROM

MERCHANT (MATERIAL INDENT )


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Thread 7-10 days (Mostly Nominated supplier e.g. Vardhman and Pasupati)

Zipper 7-10 days (Mostly Nominated supplier e.g. YKK)

Elastic 12-15 days

After receiving of goods store manager counts all material manually and then sends to production

department.

MATERIAL INDENT

It is an internal document issued to Accessory Dept, for sourcing the required accessory and trims for the

style.

2.4. FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

This department starts its work when the quality is approved from buyer side and the

merchandiser feeds the initial information like purchase order, quantity, and size wise breakup. On

the basis of this purchase order and various inputs like fabric requirement, shades, etc. the fabric

sourcing department prepares a requisition for the fabric as per the demands of the buyer and

raises it to the fabric vendors in the market. Sourcing department deals with getting information

about material from different sources and then select the best material which suits their budget

and buyers specification. The best deal and the vendor are finalized and the order is placed upon

the following basis:

Quality.

Lead time/delivery

Price

Then the factory may send the yarn from store to the fabricators for fabric production, buy raw

for dyeing or directly order the processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics development

receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor sends it in form of lots within the specified time

period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About 5% Extra goods are supplied by

the vendor.

Fabric sourcing means sourcing the right kind of fabric which fulfils the buyers specifications.

Fabric sourcing dept is quite important as more than 90% of garment is fabric and approximately

70% cost of garment is due to fabric.

Selecting the right quality of fabric as per the buyers specification is v ery important otherwise it

may lead to cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The fabric sourcing


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dept gets the sample from the vendors. These samples are tested before sending to buyer for

approval. After the buyer approves the sample, the fabric is ordered for bulk production. On the

time of delivery each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity, colour,

GSM, and weight. The goods are weighed and other details are reconfirmed before they are store.

Documents used in sourcing dept:

Quotation sheet

FPO

JPO

Main responsibilities of this department include:

Determination of the requirements.

Decision on the process parameters. Decision on best deal of fabric


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REQUISITION FOR THE FABRIC

(QUATION SHEET)

ORDER CONFIRMATION

PERFORMA INVOICE

FABRIC PURCHASE ORDER

ORDER FOR INITIAL BULK

COUNTER APPROVAL

ORDER IN BULK

FABRIC IN HOUSE

RECEIVING OF FABRIC

REQUIREMENT PROGRAM FP FROM

PERFORMA INVOICE FOR

ORDER OF BULK PROCESSING

PROCESSED FABRIC IN HOUSE

INSPECTION OF RAW FABRIC

FABRIC PRO REQ (QUATION SHEET)

ORDER CONFERMATION

JOB PROCESSING ORDER(JPO)

INSPECTION

COUNTER APPROVAL


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2.5. FABRIC STORAGE DEPARTMENT

Fabric sourcing and storage department does their work together, but this department starts its

work when fabric comes in-house or fabric store, they inspect both raw and processed fabric, with

machines and manually, when they do all their work then they give report to sourcing department

about status of fabric . For inspection, they follow 4 point system and the fabric received and the

fabric issued details are fed into the SAP software. There are different register for record that

maintains all the information about fabric that comes in the store and that are issued to any

merchant.

STORAGE OF FABRIC

Fabric packages are stored in the racks in two areas:

1. Checked fabric

2. Unchecked Fabric

They are further segregated on the basis of style no. And lot wise. The fabric is put in racks with

the help of Fork Lift and pallets. Such a systematic maintenance of the store makes it easy to make

the fabric whenever needed in future.

2.6. FABRIC INSPECTION

In order to accomplish complete control on the quality of the finished product, it is imperative to

have stringent quality checks on the raw material. Pearl Global quality control procedures based

on AQL 4 point system are laid out based on which all fabrics that come into the warehouse are

screened and categorized.

The fabric being the main contributor to the development of final product i.e. the garment, it is

very important to a control its quality indicated by the no. of faults and variations present in it.

Identifications of these objectionable variations and faults right at the initial stage helps to reduce

the production time. So once the fabric is in-housed it is immediately sent to the inspection area.

TYPES OF INSPECTION

Raw fabric inspection

Processed fabric inspection


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Formula used in inspection

In Yard= Defects Points*3600 /Length* Width

In Meter = Defects Points10,000 /Length* Width

9.44 yard = 1 meter

They accept fabric if raw fabric has maximum 28 point and processed fabric has maximum 40

points

Other defects considered in the fabric store are:

OIL STAINS

WEAVING DEFECTS

DEAD COTTON

PATCHY

BOWING and SKEWNESS

Every defect encountered is marked with an arrow sticker. A fabric checking report is filled which

gives the details about the defects found. After the checking is done the fabric is repacked in large

poly bags and graded according to the standards set by the company. The graders are as follows-

A CLASS: NO defects, Fabric can be used.

B/MENDED CLASS: Defect are present but under acceptance level, can be mended to first

class by subsequent processing, Fabric to be cut care.

C CLASS: Fabric to be negotiated with supplier.

D CLASS: Rejected defects are present beyond acceptance level, Fabric not to be used.

Main responsibilities

Checking in proper manner.

In case there is C and D category in passed lot, should be recheck again and rechecking

report need to be made.

Lab report along with fabric checking report should be given to fabric sourcing manager as

well as merchandiser.

No fabric issued to cutting without QA sign.

Knit fabric check in kilograms.


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Receive fabrics

Start

Conduct shrinkage

test on minimum 2

bits/bale or minimum

10 bits of consignment

Forward one meter of

each consignment for

lab test

Verify whether quantity

received match with

quantity ordered

Inform to stores and prepare

goods received note (in case of

imported fabric)

Inspection based on four

points system. Match

bulk with approved dye

lot, width of fabric etc.

Name shade lot as ABC

Send to merchant for buyers

a roval

If approvedForward to

cutting dept.

End

Reject lot

If No

If No

If No

If Yes

If Yes

If Yes


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2.7. OUTSOURCING DEPARTMENT

This department has the job of sourcing work from outside the unit. Outsourcing may be required

for any task. Even if the company has the capacity to do it, it may not be able to do it if the

particular section/machine is busy some other task, these all are the responsibilities of

outsourcing department who get these job done from outside. For example in Pearl Global they do

this for embroidery because they do not have embroidery machines.

2.8. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

This department is headed by Mr. Madav. Pearl Global has a big sampling room, and this

department directly coordinates with the merchandising department and production department,

In any export house, the sampling department plays a vital role in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling

is done to see how the product will look alike when produced in bulk and to check whether any

discrepancies in the pattern are there or not. Patterns are made according to the buyers

specification.

A sample is a prototype of a product to be manufactured in future course of production. It is also

called mock up of a product and is made to check the design effectiveness and fit of the garment.

Sampling is a set of procedure follotheyd to produce various sample styles. It contains activities

like making of pattern for prototypes according to measurement of produce sample with the help

of machinery and getting buyers approval for the sample produce, there are different categories

of samples like

Proto/Development sample

Fit sample

Testing samples

Preproduction sample

Sealer samples

TOP sample

Ad sample

Photo samples etc

Proto/Development sample-

This is first development of any sketch sheet. Three piece are made in similar kind of fabric and

trims.


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Fit sample-

If buyer likes development sample, the he provide the size chart, now that sample is made

according to that measurement and sizes. Fit samples are normally made in base size or

sometimes as per buyer specification.

Testing samples-

Testing samples are made for tests e.g. FPT, GPT etc.

Preproduction sample-

Preproduction samples are made with actual fabric, actual trims and actual measurements;

Merchant approves all these things from buyer one by one and keeps record with him for

reference and as a proof for the time of inspection. These are made in all sizes and all colors that

are required before but actual production as name indicate it.

Sealer samples-

Comes from buyer side, through PP samples that merchant sent to buyer, these samples are

reference sample for production and inspection.

TOP sample-

Top of production samples are sample that merchant sends to buyer and he takes these from

production, these are first six piece of production, merchant sends these sample because method

of stitching and all in sampling and production are different.

Ad sample

Samples make for advertisement are called ad sample.

Photo shoot samples

Samples make for photo shoot on models etc are called photo sample.

MAIN FUNCTIONS

Two main functions of sampling dept are:

1. To cater the buyer

2. New Development


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TO CATER THE BUYER

In this method first a Tec-Pack or Garment Specification Sheet (GSS) is given by the buyer and then

on the basis of this GSS Patterns are made by the pattern master. With the help of these patterns

fabric average is calculated and then by adding other cost also costing is send to the buyer. On the

basis of this costing buyer places an order. Once the order is placed the sampling dept starts

producing samples. These samples are then send to the buyer through merchandiser for his

approval as per the sequence shown in the above.

NEW DEVELOPMENT

In this method a new design is developed by the designer of the company. Before developing a

new design forecasting is done. By this forecasting they come to know that which colour,

embroidery, type of fabric, silhouette, and texture etc will be like by the fabric in the upcoming

season. This new design is then send to the buyer and if buyer likes the design; he may place an

order of the same design or with some modification in the new design. Once the order is placed by

the buyer, the sampling dept starts producing samples. These samples are then sent to the buyer

through merchandiser for his approval.

MAIN ACTIVITIES

The main activities of the department are:

SAMPLE REQUEST

Firstly the sampling request originates from buyer to merchant; it can be come in the form of tech

pack or development sample, then sampling requests are approved by MM/GM. The evaluation is

basically analyzed on the possibility of executing within timeframe with the given resources and

Checking/Identifying material availability, for this purpose, Merchant makes TNA and they contact

with sourcing department, to know about the availability of material and also they get clarification

from buyer so as to make the request complete in terms of understanding. After all they take

decision on sample request.

SAMPLE FABRIC- WORK ORDER CREATION

Firstly merchant contact to sourcing dept or store, to see required fabric is available in stores or

not. If available then he gets fabric from their otherwise he sends his runner to arrange fabric from

local market like as Nehru place.


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For this he gives clear information like quality/colors/reference fabrics /quantity required etc. If

modification is requested by sourcing, amendment or clarification is done by merchant.

Merchant discuss approximate cost & lead time details with MM/GM.

Reconfirmation with buyer is done, if required

Proceed to sample cost sheet

COSTING OF SAMPLE

Cost sheet is created by merchant and approved by MM. Cost sheet consists following details

Fabric cost/qty

Accessories cost

Any special process cost

Cut & make cost

Others - courier /transportation etc


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Tech pack received from merchant

Develop patterns

Costing CAD

marker

Develop sample

Develop fit/proto sample

Revise Fit/Proto

sample

PP sample

Revise PP sample Size set sample

Incorporate buyer

comments

Sealer sample

Incorporate buyer

comments

Bulk production

(shrinkage to be

added if its a wash

If no comments

If no comments

If no comments

If no comments

If any comments

If any comments

If any comments

If any comments

Fig 3: Workflow of sampling


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2.9. CAD DEPARTMENT

Buyer gives the size chart for all the size of garment to the merchandising department before

development sample, then the size chart reaches the sampling department for development

sample and fit sample. The base pattern is prepared by the sampling department for these

samples, after fit sample that size chart forward to CAD department for grading. Now the base

pattern is digitized and brought on the computer. Here grading is done to develop pattern of all

size required sizes. The department has

Two CAD labs

Two digitizers

Four computers

Two plotters

After getting purchase order, they do marker planning; they transfer pattern file from Modaris

software to Diaminos software through variant folder for markers efficiency this is done to

achieve maximum possible efficiency. The efficiency obtained depends on the style of garment

that varies from80%-86%. In normal style 82% efficiency is ok, but they try to achieve more

efficiency for their profit purpose. The software used for pattern grading are Modaris of Lectra

System Ltd and PDS of Garber system Ltd, and they use Diamino 4.2C2 for average and markerefficiency.

Receive patterns

from patternmaster

Digitize pattern

to feed in

Receive spec

sheet form


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2.10. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

The basic aim of an export house is to deliver value satisfaction of the customer at the profit level.

Production is an act of producing a product i.e quantity obtained by multiplying two quantities together

by making use of available resources. To deliver quality with the quantity the ratio between input

resources or raw material or output goods and services is known as productivity are reciprocally related

to each other.

Therefore an increase in production leads to the fall in cost and rise in profit.

PRODUCTION MANAGER

Pattern correction

Pattern grading

Cut ratio

planning

Market planning

according to the

cut plan ratio

Output mini

marker to

printer

Output marker

to plotter

Send to cutting

room for cutting

Send to

merchandiser for

costing

Output to

plotter

Pattern sent to

merchandiser for

sampling

WORK FLOWIN CAD

DEPARTMENT


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The job of production manager is to discuss Operation bulletin, machine layout and manpower with

production in charge and coordinate with the production contractor explaining him the details of piece

rate, final deadline, OT incentives (which is decided by GM of the company after discussing with other

managers.

FLOOR IN CHARGE

The job of floor in charge is to collect sealer sample from production manager and make reference

based sealer sample to display in each batch and to coordinate during production and ensure peak

production. He also delegates work to the both floor to the respective supervisors.

SUPERVISOR

The Supervisor is responsible for making and receiving the approved templates and profiles from

feeding helpers for running style and giving all the planning for the production setting.

OPERATORThe job of the operator is to perform the operation with desired quality and good efficiency.

FEEDING HELPERS

The cut panels are loaded onto the machine and given to the operator bundle wise by the feeding

helper. They also monitor bundle movement by maintaining the bundle loading register.

2.11. CUTTING AND BUNDLING DEPARTMENT

This department is headed by Mr. Kuldeep Singh, the cutting department provides cut parts to

the all production floors. The main details are as follows:

The cutting department spreads fabric manually.

Length of fabric spreading tables is 18 meters but they spread only 6-7 meters in layers

according to size ratio.

There are 9 straight knives and 1 band knife.

There are 2 fusing machines

They bundle pieces in the quantity of 10 after ticketing.

They spread a brown paper on table before lying of fabric on table.


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Yes

No

Yes

NO

Acquire fabric from

fabric store

Cut sample to

check

Require

Checking

Cut for initial size

set

Assemble and

check

Require

changes

Issue job

Send to CAD for

Change

Receive changed

pattern from CAD

WORK FLOW IN

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Cutting package

from production

manager


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2.12. SEWING DEPARTMENT

Pearl Global has assembly line system, they have lines and 40 machines in each line. and in

their production manpower they have

20% skilled labor for critical operations

30% semiskilled labor

50% unskilled labor for simple operations e.g. side seams.

They have different type of machines in sewing department, that are mentioned in annexure

no---

Production capacity of PGL unit no. 446 is 6000 piece per day. Average time of sewing a

garment is 25-40 minute. SMV department gives actual time for stitching of a particular

garment. And through time and motion study production department sets the sequence of

operations and number of operations. To remove all production related problems managementteam held a pre production meeting, people that are involve in production from any of

department all attend this meeting and discuss on production related issues.

MAIN RESPONSIBILITIES

Bulk cutting

Sorting

Cut plan

Bundling

Issue


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Main responsibilities of this department are

They should follow lead time.

Operations strength in terms of seams strength, buttons holes strength and other this

kind of operation should be according to buyer requirements.

Placement of parts should be on correct place.

Operation sequence also should be correct for saving of time.

In terms of stitching, right person should be on right job because of garment finishing.


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Start

Bulk Production

Cut parts received from

End line checking & AQL

Assembly

Sewing process begins

Button & button hole/ Bar tack

Rough checking

Ironing

Final checkin

Ta in

Packing

FSA Audit

Measurement checking

Auditing by buyer QA

Truck out End

In-Line

Washing


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2.13. WASHING DEPARTMENT

In the washing department, Firstly fabrics are washed for the shrinkage tests and then final garments

after completion of all processes are also washed and given certain required washing finishes according

to buyer requirements and tech. packs. After wash, the garments are sends to finishing department that

is near to washing department.

These are different type of in-house washes

Dip:-with simple water

NID/Normal wash:-with simple water and detergent

Softener/Silicon wash:-for softness of garment

Perk wash:-to remove oily stain

Enzyme wash:-discolor to denim fabric

Stone wash:-for softness

Sand Blast:-discolor to different type of fabrics

2.14. PRESSING DEPARTMENT

Pressing in general is shaping the assembled material with pressure, with /without heat and/or

moisture for further processing. In case of knits this is important but not as significant as in the

case of wovens because of their property of excellent recovery and fit. Then the ironing of t he

garments takes place on the steam boards with steam ironing machine. The patterns of the size

of the garments and then pressed. This is done so that if there are any measurement

discrepancies, they can be set or removed by stretching or contracting while steam pressing the

knits.This ensures one final and equal look within one size of the garment.

2.15. FINISHING DEPARTMENT

After assembly, the garments now come for finishing a key stage of garment manufacturing

process .finishing is done to prepare the final garment according to the quality standards of the

buyer before packing it for shipment.


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PROCESS FLOW OF FINISHING

After washing garment goes to finishing department, in this department workers remove the

extra threads from garment Manually with the help of trimming scissor, thats called thread

cutting or trimming and then they checks spots or stains and remove these stains with the help

of spotting guns, they also removes the paper type things that comes because of ticketing and

bundling process, after that they sends these garment to pressing department for pressing.

2.16. PACKING DEPARTMENT

In packing department they pack garments according to buyer requirements, they do different

type of packing e.g.

Roll pack

Umbrella pack

Fold pack

Hanger pack

Flat pack

Half fold pack

Ratio pack Blister pack

MAIN FUNCTION

To follow required packing style and quantity.

To seal curtain in the proper way.

2.17. INSPECTIONS DEPARTMENT

Suppliers who use subcontractors for production must have their own QC's working under the

subcontractors. It is the supplier's responsibility to make sure that the subcontractor follows all

buyers quality standards and requirements.


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DIFFERENT TYPES OF INSPECTIONS:

INITIAL INSPECTION:

It is important that the QC team carries out initial inspections after a trial cutting of 150 -600

pieces covering all sizes and colors. This is to ensure conformance to requirements. This

inspection is very important in order to get a smooth running production. At this stage it is still

possible to find and solve problems without causing any major disturbance in the production.

Information about an order's planned production start and finish is to be given to the

production manager

INLINE INSPECTION:

The purpose of this inspection is to confirm that during the early stages of production, the

agreed manufacturing specifications are being followed. The approved counter sample, and its

duplicates, must be present at all stages of production. Information regarding style,

measurements, accessories etc must be available for everyone.

All problems identified during inline inspections, must be corrected immediately by the supplier

and must not be present at the time of the next QC inspection.

The goods must be inspected and records must be kept after each major stage during

production e.g.

Cutting: - parts and panels size conformance, fabric defects.

Pre-assembly: - general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. Stitching, linking,

collars, sleeves, position of pockets.

Assembly: - general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking,

pockets, zippers, position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes.

Finishing/pressing: - overall workmanship, pressing appearance and measurements.

GENERAL CHECKING:


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After washing, the garment comes for general checking relating to overall stitching. Here, first

the general visual appearance is studied which includes shape of the garment, balancing of the

parts, color variations etc. then any seaming defects are recognized for example unmade

seams, missed stitches etc. As per requirement the checked pieces are sent for mending in the

assembly line. The production manager gives a TOP sample to the checkers as a visual aid.

MEASUREMENT AND FINAL CHECKING/INSPECTION:

This is the final and most stringent checking done for garment measurements, appearance,

labels, trims etc. to study the final look and shape of the product produced. Measurements are

done according to the specification sheets and recordings are made for any variations in the

measurement chart. This gives an overall idea about the quality of the garment being produced.

Finally, all the good garments are counted recorded and sent to the packing tables.

Because final inspection is the stage of inspection when the garment is going to packing, this is

very important to inspect garment very carefully, to remove all reasons of rejections and

buyers discounts. On this stage garment should be check from every point of view from fabric

construction to pressing.

MAIN FUNCTION OF DEPARTMENT

To follow the approvals and maintains quality on that required level.

Time to time checking of garment in terms of quality, quantity and construction.

The goods must be inspected and records must be kept after each major stage during

production.

2.18. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

The human resource department is involved with managing the most important resource of the

apparel industry that is manpower.

MAIN FUNCTION

HR planning and budget.


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Performance appraisal

Staff motivation

Employee retaining

Welfare Activities.

2.19. MARKETING/MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

This department is headed by Mr. Pankaj Bhasin, this department coordinates between the

buyer and the whole company. The primary concern of an apparel firm is to provide a product

line that will meet the needs of the selected target market and produce a profit so the firm can

grow. The product line is the primary responsibility of merchandising. Merchandising is

planning, developing, and presenting product line (s) for identified target market(s) with regard

to pricing, assortment, styling, and timing. Merchandising is the central coordinating point for

the product line. This department works in conjunction with various other supporting

departments.

There are basically two types of merchandising in Pearl Global.

Marketing merchandising:

The merchandiser approaches buyer with the sample developed by the design department and

receives production order for the same.

Main function of marketing merchandising are :

Product development

Costing

Ordering

Product merchandising:

In which the buyer contact the merchandiser and send their samples for the production.

Product merchandising includes all responsibilities from sample request confirmation to

shipment as follows:

Product development


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Market and Product analysis

Booking Orders

Confirming deliveries and sampling

Costing

Raw material

Flow monitoring and delivering samples to buyer

Production follow ups

Documentation

Payment follows

Shipment

Merchandising or merchandise means commodities or goods dealt in by merchant. A merchant is the

person who acts as a link between a buyer and vendor; he is the one who is central or integral part of a

garment industry.

Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a vendors

company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full manufacturing process of

garment right from getting the order, approving the design, ordering fabric, cutting, production and up

to shipment of the order. A merchant involves coordinating and follows up against tight schedules. He

has to take care of quality, delivery on time and simultaneously the price of garment and due to which

the merchant is liable for some percentage in the company profit.

MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES

Order booking and Receiving all detailed information-from buyer like style details, fabric type, quality

and fiber content, trim requirements and quality color details and various other details like washing,

printing, embroideries etc.

Capacity fulfilment-Fabric and accessories booking- Receive the PO and accepted L/C, amendments if

any, confirm price, category, delivery schedule and the required lead time etc.

Sample arrangement- Make proto types, coordinate with Research & Development team, find fabric

costing and initial costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at sampling stage

etc.


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Delivery on time to buyer- Get the approval for samples and trims, prepare the time and action

calendar, prepare the fabric and trim indent.

Test reports- Coordinate with R&D and IE for further detailed R&D reports, coordinate with PPC for

production planning, send order status to the buying office at every stage.

Production detail preparation- Call for the production meeting, prepare the production file and take

care of the budget at each stage.

Shipping detail preparation- merchandiser works with shipping dept for booking vessel and other

mediums for transporting shipment till vessel and export documentation for preparing necessary

document for custom clearance and payments and also for importing fabrics and accessory.

Merchandiser should take lot approval and all these type of approval means each and every thing that

they use in a particular garment style they should take approval from buyer for reference and he take it

as a proof on the time of inspection, so therefore from every roll and lot swatch is taken firstly, it is

observed in-house and then dispatched to buying house for approvals and after approvals cutting go

head will be given to the factory.

Merchandiser has to do the entire above task for each style but before starting, merchant has to do

costing and plan the whole process from fabric ordering till shipment date and it is called as Time and

Action Calendar (T & A Calendar ).

Merchandiser prepares two T & A Calendar, one external for buyer and supplier which is compactly

prepared to get approvals from buyer and to receive ordered fabric and trims/accessories to get on-time

deliveries, from suppliers in-house and other T & A for internal working for prompt working for style.

Before starting the costing for a style, merchandiser has to consider the following:

Fabric Average

Labour Expenses (Calculated with the help of SMV )

Thread Consumption

Trims and Accessories Cost

Cut Make cost (CM)

Finishing


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Packaging

Margin

Exchange Rate

COSTING

The most important function of the merchandising dept is to calculate the total cost of the garment. It is

the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and also negotiate the cost of

production with the buyer before he sends his PO. The costing should be such that it suits the buyer and

also the Export House. At the Preproduction stage initial costing is done so as to get an idea of the cost

likely to be incurred. This cost includes raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, make up

cost, overhead expenses and the margin of the company. After the buyer has placed his order and

production sample is approved then the final costing is done. The final costing uses fabric average from

CAD, cost of fabric and trims etc.

INTERNAL INDENT-It is an internal document of the company which is a deviation between the actual

costing given to the buyer and companys costing

PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

ORDER CONFIRMATION

PURCHASE ORDER

DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE

TIME AND ACTION

PLAN

COSTING


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FIT SAMPLE

TRIM ORDERCOMMENT

FABRIC ORDER

INTERNAL CHECKING

AND TESTING

INTERNAL CHECKING

AND TESTING(FPT)

APPROVEL FROM

BUYER

APPROVEL FROM

BUYER

SUBMISSION OF

REVISED FIT SAMPLE IF

RE UIRED COMMENT

GARMENT

PP SAMPLE/COMMENT

PREPRODUCTION

MEETING

FINAL INSPECTION

TRIMS IN HOUSE FABRIC IN HOUSE

FINAL INSPECTION

VESSELS BOOKINGREPORT TO

MERCHANDISER

REPORT TO

MERCHANDISER

R & D, SMV AND

OPERATION BREAKDOWN

PRODUCTION-CUTTING,

SEWING AND FINISHING

ETC

FILES HANDOVR TO

PRODUCTION DEPT


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SUBMISSION OF TOP

SAMPLE/COMMENT

PACKING, INSPECTION

SHIPMENT

PAYMENT


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PROJECT

WASTE MINIMIZATION AND REWORK REDUCTION

PEARL GLOBAL LTD

SUBMITTED BY

KAPIL KUMAR

MASTER OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SUBMITTED TO

National Institute of Fashion Technology

New Delhi, (Ministry of Textiles)

Department of Fashion Technology


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3.PROJECT

3.1.Waste minimization

3.1.1. OBJECTIVES:

To define wastage and outline the challenges to control it

To calculate wastage of each department through study of styles

To identify the stages of wastage

To find waste percentage and cost lost in wastage through costing sheet

To develop formats on wastage for each department and the costing sheet

3.1.2. Research methodology:

3.1.3. Literature review

What is wastage?

Waste is purchased raw material which is subsequently not sold as product.

Waste costs money. Reducing the amount of waste the company produces will increase profits

and help the company to remain competitive.

Collecting Data from different department

Analyzing data

Calculation of different losses

Finding areas of improvement

Suggesting improvements


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Waste classification

Overproduction-- Manufacture of products in advance or in excess of demand wastes

money, time and space.

Waiting-- Processes are ineffective and time is wasted when one process waits to begin

while another finishes. Instead, the flow of operations should be smooth andcontinuous. According to some estimates, as much as 99 percent of a product's time in

manufacture is actually spent waiting.

Transportation-- Moving a product between manufacturing processes adds no value, is

expensive and can cause damage or product deterioration.

Inappropriate processing -- Overly elaborate and expensive equipment is wasteful if

simpler machinery would work as well.

Excessive inventorywastes resources through costs of storage and maintenance.

Unnecessary motion-- Resources are wasted when workers have to bend, reach or walk

distances to do their jobs. Workplaceergonomicsassessment should be conducted to

design a more efficient environment. Defects-- Inspecting and quarantining inventory takes time and costs money.

WASTAGE STAGES

FABRIC SOURCED FROM OUTSIDE

FABRIC ISSUED TO CUTTING

PCS CUT

CUT PIECES ISSUED TO BUNDLING

PCS ISSUED FROM BUNDLING TO SEWING

PCS FROM PRODUCTION TO FINISHING

PCS ISSUED TO PACKING
http://searchcio-midmarket.techtarget.com/definition/ergonomicshttp://searchcio-midmarket.techtarget.com/definition/ergonomicshttp://searchcio-midmarket.techtarget.com/definition/ergonomicshttp://searchcio-midmarket.techtarget.com/definition/ergonomics


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REASONS FOR WASTAGES

FABRIC STORE: Fabric must be inspected properly. Though 100% inspection is difficult but the

10% inspection that is done should be done religiously as a lot of fabric defects do find their

way to production floor.

SPREADING: Some defects are detected at time of spreading but some minor defects get

undetected.

Also since manual spreading is done which is prone to errors. End cutters are not used and

fabric is torn by hand which may lead to fabric skewing, bowing and frayed edges.Three

operators are used for spreading one for spreading, one for holding and one for aligning. Even

the use of simple roll stand traveler can reduce the need of holding operator.

CUTTING:Cutting wastage may come from marker utilization, extra cut percentage, end bits

and remnants. Roll width is not properly utilized. Cut order planning is done only on the basis of

the sizes which are required to be shipped first. Roll length and roll width are not taken into

consideration, markers made on minimum width.

TICKETING & BUNDLING:Most of the cutting defects are passed off no proper checking at time

of bundling. While ticketing some pieces may not get ticketed or wrongly ticketed.

SEWING: While sewing if operator founds the piece to be defective it should be disposed off

right at that time and should not be preceded for further operation. But operator gets involved

in his own work so much that some minor defects usually get undetected.

FINISHING: fit/ measurement defects, trim defects, spots, pressing defects.

WASHING:Wastage due to loss or misplaced pieces while transportation.

3.1.4. Case study: Fabric Wastage and lost pieces estimation and control measures:

Fabric comprises at least 50% of the garment cost and the best fabric utilization is to use every

inch of what you buy, converting it into garments and ultimately into earnings.

To evaluate the amount of wastage happening at various stages and its reasons, study was

conducted on 3 styles.

BUYER GAP GAP INDITEX (Pull & Bear)

STYLE NO. #882639 #857945 #V1185


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GARMENT DARTED DRESS TOP DRESS SHIRT DRESS TOP WITH

FRILLS

To establish and identify the major areas of waste. Orders were thoroughly investigated in the

factory. The results of which have been presented here:

The results show that of the total fabric bought for an order only 82% is being used effectively

the remaining 18% is being lost in one way or the other.

The major contributors to this loss are :-


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Style Style 1:

#882639 GAP

Style 2

#857945 GAP

Style 3

# V-1185 Pull & Bear

Color Grey print Green print Sulphur Petroleum Green

Order quantity

(No. of pieces)13140 13722 7510 10840 10840

Marker avg. estimated 0.9 0.9 1.75 1.58 1.58

Required fabric

(yards) 11826 12349.8 13142.5 17127.2 17127.2

Fabric

store

(yards)

Fabric ordered 13670 14275 14400 22024 18206

Fabric received 13635 14265 14452 22020 18206

Issued to

cutting -11553 -12220-13124

-17674.6-17222.5

Fabric left in

stock2082 2045

1328 4345.35 983.55

Cutting

(No. of pieces)14395 14395 7849 11496 11353

Bundling

(No. of pieces)14395 14395 7849 11496 11353

Sewing(No. of pieces)

14122 14934 7849 11496 11353

Finishing

(No. of pieces)13140 13753 7635 10840 10842

Shipped

(No. of pieces)13125 13725 7624 10840 10840

Findings sheet


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Dead stock

It is the fabric that is left in your stores after the order has been shipped. This is mostly the

result of over cautious buying. No one wants to be blamed for short shipment and so there are

lots of stages where extra percentages are added.

As an example the Pattern master calculates consumption on medium size (2 mtr) and addsextra approximately 10 cm to compensate for large sizes a further 3 to 5% is added for cutting

wastages and 2% for shrinkage and defects. The fabric is ordered and a further 5% is added

since the buyer allows a potential 5% to be over-shipped.

Cut to Ship Ratio:

This ratio represents the number of garments shipped against number of garments cut. The cut

to ship ratio varies between 95% and 99%. 6 of the factories achieved a ratio of 96/97% with

only two of them achieving acceptable delivery percentages.

Finding out cut to ship ratio:

Lost Fabric Data

Finding out how much of total fabric is ordered and what %age of it actually ended up as

shippable garment

From the rest %age, cutting loss %age, rejection %age, and dead stock %age is

determined and rest is misplaced or lost fabric %age

Style no. Cut

pieces

Shipped

pieces

Cut to ship

ratio

Loss %

#882639

GAP

Grey print 14395 13195 91.70% 8.30%

Green

print

14395 13725 95.35% 4.65%

#857945GAP

sulphur 7849 7624 97.13% 2.87%

#V1185

Pull &

Bear

Petroleum 11496 11353 98.76% 1.24%

Green 10840 10840 100% 0

Total 17.06%


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#882639 #857945 #V1185

Consumption 0.9 1.75 1.58

Pattern master

(allowances)10 cm 1 10 cm 1.85 10 cm 1.68

Cutting wastage 3% 1.03 3% 1.906 3% 1.73

Shrinkage 1% 1.0403 1% 1.925 2.5% 1.77

#882639 #857945 #V1185

Fabric required 24176 13142.5 37318.5

Fabric Bought 27900 14452 40452

Fabric accounted for 26850 *0.9 = 7624*1.75= 21680*1.58=

24165 13342 34254.4

Fabric Unaccounted for

or lost

3735 1110 6197.6

% loss 13.39% 7.60% 15.32%


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*overproduction loss is not included

Fabric Utilization

styleFabricrequired

FabricReceived

Fabric

accountedfor

Fabric

Unaccountedfor or lost % loss

utilization% KPI

#882639 24176 27900 24165 3735 13.39% 86.612903 87

#857945 13142.5 14452 13342 1110 7.60% 92.319402 92

#V1185 37318.5 40452 34254.4 6197.6 15.32% 84.679126 85

Avg KPI for fabric utilization 12.10333 87.870477 88

In this case the loss is 13% of the total fabric bought, this fabric is either dead stock, lost in

cutting room, lost as reject garments or arrived short on rolls from mill. However, once the

shipment leaves we revel in the fact that we have sent more than order qty instead of realizing

the fact that we actually bought extra 5% fabric but not converted it into earnings.


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Overproduction loss

Manufacture of products in advance or in excess of demand wastes money, time and

space.

Style Style 1: Style 2 Style 3

#882639 #857945 # V-1185

Color Grey print Green print Sulphur Petroleum Green unit

Order quantity 13140 13722 7510 10840 10840

no. of

pcs

Cutting 14395 14395 7849 11496 11353

no. of

pcs

Sewing 14122 14934 7849 11496 11353

no. of

pcs

extra produced 982 1212 339 656 513

no. of

pcs

overproduction

% 7.47% 8.83% 4.51% 6.05% 4.73%

avg 16.30% 4.51% 10.78% 6.94%


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3.1.5. case study: Cutting loss analysis

The Cutting room is one of the most important departments in the factory; The staff in many of

the departments need to be Fabric Conscious. An improvement of 2-3% in utilization

efficiency can make a huge difference to bottom line profitability. Comprehensive fabric

reconciliation is essential; to see this vital aspect in their controls.

Width control

Lets start with this aspect, I was once told that if you can save 1% in width then you will save

1% in length, this of course is not consistently true but it is a fact that on some markers a

considerable difference in the marker length can be achieved if an additional 1cm can be gained

on width. So it is essential that fabric is PROPERLY measured for width when it arrives, and of

course the width that is measured is from selvedge to selvedge. At this time it is also necessary

to split the newly arrived fabric into two more categories, shade and shrinkage, and if this is

done correctly then we can choose specific groups and match them to lays so that all of the

fabric used in one lay conforms to the same specifications.

Wider width fabric and narrower width fabric kept together in a lay, no width wize segragation

for fabric.


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Marker made to the lowest width leading to loss in fabric

Benefit of Fabric Width Utilization in Factory

Style No: #103852 GAP

Width variation found in the fabric 153 cm to 156 cm.

The marker was made on minimum width.

Marker width taken as 142 cm for shell fabric

For lining fabric width variation found to be 120 to 121 cm

Marker was made as 118.5 width:


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Remnant Markers and End bit Administration: factory cut garments from remnants (End bits)

but they are frequently saved to cut part changes and the remaining fabric is wasted. It must be

made mandatory to use all the remnants to cut garments before the last marker and part

changes were done only from off cuts. The final comparison between costed/buying and

achieved consumption will be considerably improve.

Recommendations

1. Accurate Fabric reconciliations to be completed for each order,

2. Standard times for each process must be established,

3. An operator monitoring system needs to be introduced,

4. Cutting room layout and the workflow can be improved,

5. End pieces and remnants should be properly managed,

6. Markers should be made as per the fabric width.

7. Work transportation trolleys and other work aids should be introduced,


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3.1.6. case study: Lost Time calculation

Lost time is described as Time lost by operators for which they are not responsible. It can be

used to monitor the effectiveness of line balancing, service by mechanics, and all other delays

that cause the operator to lose productivity. Company does not utilize this tool adequately.

If the factory made an attempted to record lost time; they will be able to reap substantial

benefits from monitoring lost time and identifying areas of improvement in system to achieve

the full potential.

M/A Ratio Study in Factory

This is a study to establish what the operators are capable of: M = Measured (Timed)

I timed each operation for 3-5 cycles to get the time taken by the operator.

The measured time = 34.93minutes + 20% allowances = 41.91 minutes

An allowance of 20% was added to the measured time for all contingencies.

A = Achieved. This is the average time taken to produce the garment.

Total no. of people working on the style: 52,

working 8 hours a day,

the production output per hour=46 pieces.

The actual line out time to make a garment is 63minutes.

The M/A ratio is 41.916 / 63.16 x 100 = 66.4%

33.6% of the operator time is lost,

Some of the reasons being:

Poor line balancing resulting in waiting time.

Poor work flow, and Poor supervisory control.


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STYLE # 857945 OPERATION BREAKDOWN

PEARL GLOBAL

LIMITED

DESCRIPTION: SHIRT DRESS

BUYER GAP

S. No. PART operatrs Operation Description ATTACH M/CS SMVTGT AT

100%

1 COLLAR 1 MARK PRESS COLLAR TEM IRON 0.45 133

2 1 RUN STITCH COLLAR SN 0.6 100

3 1 TURN PRESS COLLAR IRON 0.45 133

4 1 TOP STITCH AT COLLAR SN 0.6 1005 2 ATTACH COLLAR TO COLLAR BAND SN 0.85 71

6 CUFF 1 MARK CUFF HD 0.45 133

7 2 RUN STITCH CUFF SN 0.75 80

8 SLEEVE 1 JOINT PIPING SN 0.45 133

9 1 SEW SLIT BINDER SN 0.5 120

10 1 TACK END OF SLIT SN 0.45 133

11 1 SEW PLETE AT SLEVE SN 0.6 100

12 BACK 1 SEW GATHER AT BACK SHERRIN SN 0.45 133

13 1 ATTACH BACK YOKE SN 0.6 100

14 FRONT 1 FOLD BUTTON PLACKET SN 0.5 120

15 1 CREASE FRONT PLACKET TEM IRON 0.45 133

16 1 FOLD BUTTON HOLE PATTI SN 0.6 100

17 1 TOP STITCH AT PLACKET SN 0.6 100

18 1 SEW GATHER AT FRONT SHOULDER SHERRIN SN 0.6 100

19 1 TACK BOTH FRONT END OF PLACKET SN 0.3 200

20 1 ATTACH SHOULDER SN 0.5 120

21 2 ATTACH COLLAR SN 0.7 86

22 2 FINISH COLLAR SN 0.88 68

23 2 ATTACH SLEEVE E/CUTERE SN 0.8 75

24 2 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 0.85 71

25 2 SEW SIDE SEAM E/CUTERE SN 0.75 80


27 POCKET 1 ATTACH POCKET FACING SN 0.6 100

28 1 SEW BAG E/CUTERE SN 0.6 100

29 1 O/LOCK AT BAG 3TOL 0.6 100


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30 1 ATTACH BAG AT FRONT SN 0.6 100

31 1 BACK STITCH AT front SN 0.6 100

32 1 TACK BAG AT FRONT SN 0.55 109

33 1 SEW SIDE SEAM LOWER E/CUTERE SN 0.5 120


35 1 ATTACH UPPER TO LOWER SN 0.7 86

36 1 CUT AN JOINT ELASTIC SN 0.45 133

37 1 TACK ELASTIC AT EMPIRE SEAM SN 0.35 171

38 1 FOLD MARGIN WITH ELASTIC SN 0.66 91

39 1 ATTACH CUFF C/SETER SN 0.6 10040 1 TOP STITCH CUFF SN 0.7 86

41 1 BOTTOM FOLD FOLDER SN 0.6 100

42 1 PREPARE LABEL SN 0.5 120

43 1 ATTACH LABEL SN 0.45 133

44 1 ATTACH W/C LABEL SN 0.45 133

45 1 SEW BUTTON HOLES BH 0.75 80

46 1 ATTACH BUTTONS BA 0.75 80

26.99

no. of m/c operators 48

mannual workers (ironers in line) 4

total workers 52

absentism 7

attended minutes 480

planned efficiency 1


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DATE O.T Hrs

No of

Tailors

present

No. of

M/c'sTARGET

Actual

Output

Minutes

produced or

SMV Earned

attended

time(includ

ing OT)

off std time on std timeperformance

%

utilization

%efficiency

15/6/11 00.00 0 0

0 #DIV/0!

16/6/11 7746 55.63 0 0.00

26700 0

17/6/11 5441 47.75 899 100 2550

22920 18554 4366 58.405 19.048 11.125

18/6/11 12346 61.38 1155 300 7650

29460 16362 13098 58.405 44.460 25.967

20/6/11 10943 56.63 1066 300 7650

27180 14082 13098 58.405 48.189 28.145

21/6/11 8442 52.50 988 310 7 905.00

25200 11665.4 13534.6 58.405 53.708 31.369

22/6/11 9437 48.75 918 400 10200

23400 5936 17464 58.405 74.632 43.589

23/6/11 10045 57.50 1082 440 11220

27600 8389.6 19210.4 58.405 69.602 40.652

24/6/11 13244 60.50 1139 500 12750

29040 7210 21830 58.405 75.172 43.904

25/6/11 14446 64.00 1205 505 12878

30720 8671.7 22048.3 58.405 71.771 41.918

27/6/11 15042 60.75 1144 500 12750

29160 7330 21830 58.405 74.862 43.724

28/6/11 11643 57.50 1082 510 13005

27600 5333.4 22266.6 58.405 80.676 47.119

29/6/11 14942 60.63 1141 515 13132.5

29100 6615.1 22484.9 58.405 77.267 45.128

30/6/11 14043 60.5 400 500 13495

29040 7210 21830 61.818 75.172 46.470

01/7/11 10045 57.5 400 500 13495

27600 5770 21830 61.8186 79.094 48.894

02/7/110

0

45 45 800 400 10 796 21600 4136 17464 61.8186 80.851 49.981

04/7/1145 45 800 400 10 796

21600 4136 17464 61.8186 80.851 49.981

05/7/11 0 45 45 800 360 9716.4 21600 5882.4 15717.6 61.8186 72.766 44.983

06/7/11 0 45 45 800 400 10796 21600 4136 17464 61.8186 80.851 49.981

07/7/11 0 48 48 854 360 9716.4 23040 7322.4 15717.6 61.8186 68.218 42.171

08/7/11 0 39 39 694 300 8097 18720 5622 13098 61.8186 69.967 43.253


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PEARL GLOBAL LIMITED

STYLE: shirt dress #857945 STUDIED BY: Kapil Kumar

BUYER: GAP DATE: 25-Jun

S.N. DESC. M/C TYPE

TOTAL

TIME

AVG.(basic

time)

measured

time*

Actual

L/OT time

**lost

time

1 MARK PRESS COLLAR IRON 3.6 0.72 0.864 0.9 0.036

2 RUN STITCH COLLAR SN 5 1 1.2 1.2 0

3 TURN PRESS COLLAR IRON 1.65 0.33 0.396 1.04 0.644

4 TOP STITCH AT COLLAR SN 5 1 1.2 1.22 0.02

5 ATTACH COLLAR TO COLLAR BAND SN 4.1 0.82 0.984 1.14 0.156

6 MARK CUFF HD 2.05 0.41 0.492 1.04 0.548

7 RUN STITCH CUFF SN 5.4 1.08 1.296 2.29 0.994

8 JOINT PIPING SN 2 0.4 0.48 1.02 0.54

9 SEW SLIT SN 2.2 0.44 0.528 1.02 0.492

10 TACK END OF SLIT SN 2 0.4 0.48 1.02 0.54

11 SEW PLETE AT SLEVE SN 3.45 0.69 0.828 1.22 0.392

12 SEW GATHER AT BACK SN 3.55 0.71 0.852 1.02 0.168

13 ATTACH BACK YOKE SN 3.5 0.7 0.84 1.04 0.2

14 FOLD BUTTON PLACKET SN 3.65 0.73 0.876 1.48 0.604

15 CREASE FRONT PLACKET IRON 3.5 0.7 0.84 0.96 0.12

16 FOLD BUTTON HOLE PATTI SN 3.5 0.7 0.84 1.35 0.51

17 TOP STITCH AT PLACKET SN 0.65 0.13 0.156 1.13 0.974

18 SEW GATHER AT FRONT SHOULDER SN 4 0.8 0.96 1.13 0.17

19 TACK BOTH FRONT END OF PLACKET SN 1.5 0.3 0.36 1.12 0.76

20 ATTACH SHOULDER SN 4.15 0.83 0.996 1.17 0.174

21 ATTACH COLLAR SN 2.3 0.46 0.552 1.19 0.638


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22 FINISH COLLAR SN 5.4 1.08 1.296 2.44 1.144

23 ATTACH SLEEVE SN 10.4 2.08 2.496 3.16 0.664

24 FINISH WITH FRENCH SEAM SN 13.5 2.7 3.24 3.67 0.43

25 SEW SIDE SEAM SN 2.5 0.5 0.6 1.19 0.59


27 ATTACH POCKET FACING SN 5 1 1.2 1.25 0.05

28 SEW BAG SN 2.8 0.56 0.672 1.34 0.668

29 O/LOCK AT BAG 3TOL 2.3 0.46 0.552 1.25 0.698

30 ATTACH BAG AT FRONT SN 2.3 0.46 0.552 1.17 0.618

31 BACK STITCH AT front SN 2.25 0.45 0.54 1.17 0.63

32 TACK BAG AT FRONT SN 2.25 0.45 0.54 1.17 0.63

33 SEW SIDE SEAM LOWER SN 2.45 0.49 0.588 1.26 0.672


35 ATTACH UPPER TO LOWER SN 5.4 1.08 1.296 2.3 1.004

36 CUT AN JOINT ELASTIC SN 2.25 0.45 0.54 1.17 0.63

37 TACK ELASTIC AT EMPIRE SEAM SN 5.1 1.02 1.224 1.12 -0.104

38 FOLD MARGIN WITH ELASTIC SN 12.5 2.5 3 3.12 0.12

39 ATTACH CUFF SN 7.4 1.48 1.776 2.44 0.664

40 TOP STITCH CUFF SN 3.5 0.7 0.84 1.28 0.44

41 BOTTOM FOLD SN 2.6 0.52 0.624 1.26 0.636

42 PREPARE LABEL SN 2.5 0.5 0.6 1.04 0.44

43 ATTACH LABEL SN 3.8 0.76 0.912 1.04 0.128

44 ATTACH W/C LABEL SN 3.95 0.79 0.948 1.3 0.352

45 SEW BUTTON HOLES BH 0 0 0 0 0

46 ATTACH BUTTONS BA 0 0 0 0 0

47 TOTAL 34.93 41.916 63.16 21.244

*measured time = (basic time + 20 % allowance)

**lost time = (actual line out time - measured time)


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Off-standard time

Off standard time is that time utilised on performing tasks to which SMVs are not allocated.

On-standard time

This is the actual time worker spent on productive work. This is calculated as the difference

between attended time and off-standard time. This should be obvious and is used in calculatingoperator performance

On standard time = (Attended time Off-standard time)

Utilization

It is the time spent on productive time out of total attended time. It is the percentage of

attended time working earning Standard Minute Values [SMV].

Utilization = (On standard time / Attended time) X 100

SMV Earned

It is the measure of work done by operator. It is calculated from output from an operation

generated in attended minutes and SMV of the operation.

SMV earned = (SMV X Output in number of units)

Efficiencyis directly related to both operator performance and the utilization of the operator.

Efficiency = (SMV earned on standard/ attended time) X 100

Individual Operator performance

It is a measure of both the skills and motivation of the operator and calculated daily.

Performance = (SMVs earned on standard / On standard time) x 100


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It


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Average efficiency is 42-45%

3.1.7. Maintenance department analysis

Companies allocate one mechanic for every 100 to 120 machines. The service provided by the

mechanics is good and prompt. The mechanics are only expected to fix machines and

contribute further by offering advice on attachments and equipment. There is increased

involvement with the IE for the usage of attachments and folders.

The machines are well serviced and oil reservoirs are clean and well-maintained. A maintenance

schedule is in place but is not followed properly. Companies dont have adequate