Apparel internship at Alok Report

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

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Internship at Alok

Industries Ltd Garments

Division, Saily, 2010

Submitted and compiled

By

Ashish Kumar Annepu, Lalit Kishore Singh

B.F.Technology (Apparel Production)

Semester -7(Batch 2007 - 2011)


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We, Ashish Kumar Annepu and Lalit Kishore Singh of NIFT Hyderabad express our in depth

gratitude to Mr. SANDEEP MAHAJAN (VP garments) and Mr. SAMUEL MUPPAVARAPU

(IE HOD) of Saily plant for guiding us along with road map before and throughout the

training.

We are heartily thanking to below member of Alok Vapi HR Team for extending their

courtesy & guideline during our stay with Alok industries Vapi.

• Mr. Suresh Bhardwaj

• Mr. Dinesh Salaskar

• Mr. Suresh Soni

Further we are thankful to following of Alok Garments Production team for giving us technical

and functional knowhow and support during our entire training duration.

Mr. Samuel Muppavarapu (Training Mentor).

Mr. Pratap Rout - Fabric store

Mr. Bharat Upadhayay- Accessory store

Mr. Rahesh D Choudhary- Thread store

Ms. Roshni Bamani- Sampling (Woven)

Mr. Yogesh Srivastava- Sampling (Knits)

Mr. Rakesh Datta- CAD department

Mr. Rajendra D Patidar- Spreading and Cutting

Mr. Harendra Rana- Sewing /Production (knits)

Mr. Pravin Khavade Sewing/Production (woven)

Mr. Subhash Bhandaari- Quality

Mr. Shiva Gateyar- Finishing/Packaging

Mr. Hetal Kamkhaliya- Maintenance

Mr. Samuel Muppavarapu- Industrial engineering

Mr. Moinuddin Sheikh- Production Merchandising

Mr. Pradeep Godhaniya- Production planning and control

Mr. Arvind Ranmale- Embroidery

Mr.Anandan Naidu- Printing

Mr. Amit Pareikh- IT


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We would also like to thank our Honourable Director Mr K.S .Pratap and Respected

Registrar Mr D. Rajesham and the following faculties for guiding us through from the

beginning and successful completion of our internship Ms. Sharmila Sure (Course Co-

ordinator-DFT dept ,Internship mentor)


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PART 1


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INTRODUCTION

B F Tech at NIFT is a very practical oriented course that equips students with all the

necessary skill sets that the industry expects. As a part of the course a two month internship

at a garmennt firm is mandated, which aims at imparting a practical understanding of

various processes related aspects of the sector. Internship enables students to get a better

understanding of a company, correlate theory with practice, provides an opportunity to study

and organsiation and its products and processes and also gaining knowledge on its

functioning.

We chose to pursue the internship at M/S Alok Industries Garments division at Saily,

Silvassa. This company is India’s largest vertically integrated mill with an envious export

record accompanied by a dominant position in the domestic market.

In compilation of this Internship report, all out efforts have been made to present a

comprehensive picture of the activities undertaken at Alok Industries in the garment unit


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1. Company profile

1.1 Introduction

Alok industries Ltd is one of India’s largest Vertically Integrated Company. It is head

quartered in Mumbai with its manufacturing units in Vapi, Silvassa & Navi Mumbai.

The company is an end to end provider of integrated textile solutions with five core

divisions: - Cotton yarn, Apparel fabrics, Home textiles, and Garment and Polyester

yarns.


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1.2 History & evolution

Alok industries were established in 1986 as a

private limited company, with its first polyester

text rising plant being set up in 1989. It became a

public limited company in 1993.

Over the years, it has expanded into weaving,

knitting, processing, home textiles and garments

and to ensure quality and cost efficiencies they

have integrated backward into cotton spinning and manufacturing partially oriented yarn

through the continuous polymerization route. It also provides embroidered products

through Grabal Alok Impex Ltd., their associate company which is the main reason for their

evolution into a diversified manufacturer of world-class home textiles, garments, apparel

fabrics and polyester yarns, selling directly to manufacturers, exporters, importers, retailers

and to some of the world’s top brands. Alok has recently entered the domestic retail

segment through a wholly owned subsidiary, Alok Retail India Limited, with a chain of

stores named ‘H&A’ that offer garments and home textiles at attractive price points.

1.3 Vision of the organization

“To be the world's best- integrated textile solutions enterprise with leadership position

across products and markets, exceeding customer & stakeholder expectation”.

1.4 Mission of the organization

The company aims at achieving the following objectives:

• Offer innovative, customized and value added services to customers.

• Actively explore potential markets & products.

• Optimize use of all resources

• Maximize people development initiatives

• Become a process driven organization

• Be a knowledge leader and an innovator in the businesses

• Exceed compliances and global quality standards

• Be an ethical, transparent and responsible global organization


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2. ORGANISATION CHART/HIERARCHY


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OCM

TNA

As per TNA material

procurement

Fabric

Trims

Other accessories

CAD

Pattern and marker

Fabric consumption

SAMPLING

Fit sample

size set

PP sample

R&D

Tech-Pack analysis

Machine details

Needle and attachment details

Pattern details

OB

Capacity booking

Learning curve

Build up plan

Thread consumption

Cutting

Sewing

Finishing

Dispatch

Embroidery

Printing

3. PROCESS FLOW AT GARMENTS DIVISION


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Part 2


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GARMENTS DIVISION

The garments division consists of the following departments:

1. Fabric , Accessory and thread store

2. Sampling (Woven and Knits)

3. CAD department

4. Spreading and Cutting

5. Sewing /Production

6. Quality

7. Finishing/Packaging

8. Maintenance

9. Industrial engineering

10. Production Merchandising

11. Production planning and control

The other auxiliary departments consists of

12. Embroidery

13. Printing

14. IT

These departments work in coordination with each other for the purpose of fulfilling

the objective of quality and mass produced garments or Apparels


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1.1 FABRIC STORE

1.1.1 PROCESS FLOW

Fabric Receive against DC from Mill

Making Challan In-word

Physical Recording

Quality Checking

Receive of Actual Consumption as per IE Dept.

Issue the fabric to cutting against DC

Reconciliation for Fabric against Particular Order.

In-word and Out-word Stock Record (Physical)


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1.1.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY

The goods are received and unloaded at the unloading bay. The fabrics are received

and stacked in “TO BE INSPECTED” area. Physical check is done on the received

goods to confirm details like Style No, colour, P.O.no, weight per lot; etc which are

provided in the PI(Production information) sheet. Physical check is done for 100% of

the received quantity/stock. A sample swatch from the bulk is sent to buyer for

approval. After Physical check the goods are transferred to their respective storage

areas after which quality inspection is done. Quality inspection consists of checking

the actual GSM, shrinkage, shade and colour continuity card using various testing

tools. The colour continuity card is used for the purpose of dividing the fabric into

various batches for avoiding shade variation within garment /batches. First Quality

inspection is done on 10% of the quantity using Four point system. If the inspection

criteria are not met then again 15-20% of the remaining quantity is checked. Fabrics

that fail the inspection criteria are sent back to the mill for replacements as the fabric

sourcing is in-house. A fabric checking machine is used for woven garments

whereas for knits physical checking is done. Quality inspection takes around 2 days

to complete. If one particular lot fails then fabric Dept must have details like weight of

the lot and Storage area etc. Lot passed with Four point system either has to be

issued to cutting with the DC as against the actual consumption determined by IE

Dept. The Dept also maintains the Reconciliation Report for each Style for

referencing. Record maintenance of the In-word, Out-word and Stock Record for

each Style is maintained both physically and in computerized formats. Fabric Trim

chart is also developed style wise to confirm required fabrics are received. Sampling

fabric for sampling purposes is stored in racks different from bulk fabrics. The fabric

dept mainly communicates with cutting, merchandising, IE, sampling for performing

its responsibilities.


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1.1.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

• IE dept- Fabric details like length (woven), diameter/width and GSM (knits)

are sent to IE for consumption determination.

• PPC dept- Fabric receival date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC

for planning and scheduling.

• Quality dept- Quality inspections are carried out and sent for verification and

approvals.

• Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the

fabric received and also receives the PI sheet of orders.

• IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through

various SAP modules.

• Sampling dept- The fabric for the purpose of sample piece stitching is

provided by the store. These fabrics are specially kept and checked to ensure

quality.

• Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the fabric coming into the factory and

outward of the fabric lot going back to the mill from store is maintained by the

dispatch.

• Cutting dept- The cutting department relies on the store for quality clearance

and issue of the fabric for cutting purposes.

FABRIC STORE

IE

SAMPLING

PROD. MERCHANDISING

IT

CUTTING

QUALITY

PPC

DISPATCH


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FABRIC STORE DETAILS

No. of shifts 2

No. of Workers 11

No. of Quality Personnel 9

Area Covered 19260sft (180 x109)

Capacity 50 tonnes

Machinery 1. One Fabric inspection machine (Make-

Yash co.) (with meterage counter)Hydro

Trolley

MIS SAP (MIGO Module)

Storage 1. Racks (5) (sample fabrics)

2. Pliers (500 kg)

Tables Four Inspection Tables (12’ X 6’ X 3’)

Tubelights 160 (80 X 2)

Fans 40

Compliance norms Metal free zone


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Trims received

Physical check

Storage

Receival of consumption from IE

Issue to sewing /cutting

RECO for stock

In-word and Out-word Stock Record (Physical)

1.2 ACCESSORY STORE

1.2.1 PROCESS FLOW


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ACCESSORY STORE

SAMPLING

PROD MERCHANDISING

IT

(MIS)

SEWING/CUTTING

PPC

(TRACKING)

DISPATCH

(INWARD OUTWARD)

1.2.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

Trims and accessories are received in bulk at the fabric store where physical

accounting of the stock is done. Visual quality inspection is carried out for the 100%

of the stock. Inspection consists of checking the physical properties like colour,

shape, size and design. This inspection takes around 48-36 hrs to complete. An

inspection report is sent to the quality, IE and PPC departments. The inspected stock

is brought to the accessory store for storage. Movable four level racks are used for

storage purposes with the name of buyer on them to store the trims respectively. A

trim chart is also maintained style wise for tracking their receivals. The accessory

store issues trims as per indent. The rejected stock is returned to the vendor as the

sourcing is not in-house. In-ward/out-ward, issue and RECO are maintained on a

daily basis.



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• PPC dept- Trims received date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC

for planning and scheduling.

• Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the trims

received and also receives the PI sheet of orders.



• Sampling dept- The trims for the purpose of sample piece stitching is

provided by the store.

• Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the trims coming into the factory and

outward of the trim lot going back to the vendor from store is maintained by

the dispatch.

• Cutting/Sewing dept- The departments rely on the store for issue of the trims

for cutting/sewing purposes.

ACCESSORY STORE DETAILS

No. of shifts 1

No. of Workers 6


Area Covered 972sft (54 x18)

Storage Eleven Movable Racks (4 level) (Kompact

systems) ((70” X 30” X 104”)/rack)


Machinery Digital weighing machine

Tables Two Inspection Tables (12’ X 6’ X 3’)

Tubelights 20(10 X 2)

Fans 6



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Thread to Order received

Colour matching

Approval from Merchandiser

Purchase Requisition sheet (manual)

PR Approval

PR registration

Generate P.O

Thread ordering

Received

Inspection

Storage

Issue

1.3 THREAD STORE

1.3.1 PROCESS FLOW


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1.3.2 ISSUAL PROCESS FLOW

1.3.3 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

Thread booking is directly done from the factory store. The production merchandiser

provides the consumption details for a particular order along with thread samples.

Colour matching is done using the fabric swatch. Vendor thread card and thread

samples are compared and the matching threads are attached on the swatch and

sent to merchandiser for approval. After the approval, a manual purchase requisition

(P.R) sheet is prepared and approved from the merchandiser. P.R registration is

done on SAP. Purchase Department prepares the Purchase Order (P.O) and places

the order. The order quantity is received at the thread store and undergoes physical

check against P.O. Inspection is also done for checking quantity per cone, colour or

shade and various other thread properties. After inspection threads are stored stack

wise. Each thread stack has a BIN CARD which is used for record purposes.

Thread issue is done when a requisition slip is received from sewing line. The

required quantity is issued in form of cone or boxes of ten cones. Issued quantity is

recorded on the issue slip and filed. Successively entries are recorded on the Bin

Card. Bin Card provides all details of thread issued and the quantity left in the stack

date wise.

Requisition slip

Thread cones /boxes issued

Issue slip entry

Bin card entry in thread stack


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THREAD STORE

SAMPLING

PROD. MERCHANDISING

IT

(MIS)

SEWING

PPC

(TRACKING)

DISPATCH

(INWARD OUTWARD)


• PPC dept- Thread received date, quantity and other details are sent to the

PPC for planning and scheduling.

• Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the

thread received and also receives the consumption and thread details of

orders.



• Sampling dept- The thread for the purpose of sample piece stitching is

provided by the store.

• Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the thread coming into the factory and

outward of the thread going back to the vendor from store is maintained by

the dispatch.


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THREAD STORE DETAILS

No. of shifts 1

No. of Workers 6


Area Covered 600sft(20’X30’)


Storage 8 Movable racks

Tables 4

Tubelights 16(8X2)

Fans 4



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TECH PACK FROM MERCHANDISER

FIT SAMPLE

BUYER COMMENTS AND

APPROVAL

SIZE SET

COMMENTS AND APPROVAL

PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE

BUYER COMMENTS AND

APPROVAL

2. SAMPLING (WOVEN AND KNITS)

2.1 PROCESS FLOW FOR FIT SAMPLING


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TECH PACK

CONCEPT SAMPLE

RED SEAL SAMPLE

APPROVAL

BLACK SEAL SAMPLE

GOLD SEAL SAMPLE

2.2 PROCESS FLOW FOR CONCEPT SAMPLING


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TECH PACK ANALYSIS

PATTERN MAKING

FABRIC ANALYSIS

SAMPLE CUTTING

SAMPLE CONSTRUCTION

FINISHING AND PACKAGING

MERCHANDISER

2.3 PROCESS FLOW IN SAMPLING


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2.4 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY

The department is responsible for making various samples for buyer approvals.

Sampling starts right after Order Confirmation Meeting (OCM). The buyer tech-packs

are sent to the production merchandiser who in coordination with sampling

department develops requisite samples or re-engineers the existing one. Based on

the requirement of buyer various samples are prepared before production.

Department analyzes the tech-pack received and prepares patterns accordingly on

CAD (Computer Aided Design) or manually. During the pattern making fabric

analysis is done and ordered for sample development. Accordingly samples are cut

and tailor stitched. After the samples are created they are sent to the merchandiser

for buyer approval. The comments given by the buyer are analyzed and acted upon.

Sampling ensures that anything that goes into production is approved with no further

changes. The tailors are in three groups with each group developing single sample.

The approved fit sample is sent to the IE department for production feasibility and

costing purposes. After confirmation on the PP sample the production merchandiser

creates the PI sheet including buyer comments received. Records regarding

incoming fabric, samples developed and samples despatched are maintained on a

regular basis.

2.5 TERMINOLOGIES

• Tech-pack- It is a document provided by the buyer that contains details such

as measurements, fabric and trim details, technical and construction details

and packaging details.

• Samples- The various types of samples prepared are:

o Fit sample- It is the first sample developed in compliance with the spec

sheet. It is optional to create the sample using substitute fabric and

trims. Usually fit samples are of middle range size. Fit approvals are

required from the buyer on this sample.


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o Size set- This consists of a group of four to five graded sizes. This is

required to obtain approval on the grading of sizes. Any comments

received on fit samples are applied here. These samples are made

from actual fabric, trims and packaging materials exactly as per tech-

pack.

o Pre-Production (pp) sample- This is the final sample developed with

all comments received from the buyer using actual trims and fabric.

This is the last sample in which changes from buyer is accepted. This

sample acts as reference for production. It is developed with strict

adherence to the tech pack. After approval a FFP (fit for production)

seal is put up on it. It then is called the FFP sample.

o TOP (top of production) sample- This sample is the top most sample

from the pilot run from a real production line. Buyer approval is required

on this sample in order to proceed further. The purpose of the sample

is to determine whether all requirements are met while mass

production.

o Concept sample- It is the first sample created in order to present the

fit and concept of the garment. It may be developed in substitute fabric

and trims. The measurements can be in tolerance range.

o Red seal- This is similar to size set samples of two to three sizes with

fit conformance. The sample can be developed in substitute fabric and

trims.

o Black seal- It is similar to the PP sample and is made of actual fabric

and trims. This sample is optional and is developed on buyer demand.

o Gold seal- This sample is similar to TOP sample and is required to

determine if all specifications are met during production.

• Photo shoot sample- This sample is developed for buyer’s marketing and

advertising purpose. It has to be made from actual fabric and trims. It is

developed in between Fit and PP samples.

• Salesman sample- (SMS Sample) This sample is developed in quantities of

8-12 garments. These samples are required by the buyer for his marketing

purposes. These samples are exactly as per tech packs on actual fabric and

trims.


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SAMPLING

PROD. MERCHANDISING

QUALITY

EMBROIDERYPRINTING

FABRIC,THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE

2.6 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

• PROD. MERCHANDISING- The department co-ordinates with the sampling

department during sample development for buyer requirements and approvals

and another follow ups.

• QUALITY- Quality department receives all critical buyer comments regarding

quality on PP samples for the purpose of quality control.

• EMBROIDERY- The department provides sampling with requisite

embroideries as per buyer need.

• PRINTING- The department provides sampling with requisite prints as per

buyer need.

• FABRIC, THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE- The required fabric trims and

accessories are issued to sampling department from these stores.


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SAMPLING (woven and knits)

No. of shifts 1

No. of Workers 30

No. of Pattern master 5

Area Covered 3700 sft ((75’ X 18’) X 2)

Machinery 1. Flat locks (Pegasus)-8

2. Over lock (Pegasus)-10

3. Feed of the arm(Kansai special)-3

4. SNLS(Juki)-17

5. 1 Riveting m/c(Tony)

6. 1 straight knife(Blue streak)

7. 1 Ramsons veit iron table

8. 1 Picotting m/c (Pegasus)

9. 1 buttonhole (Juki)

10. 1 buttoning m/c (Juki)

MIS SAP and excel sheets

Storage 2 racks

Tables 2 pattern making tables

Tubelights 54 tubes

Fans 15


Average process Lead times • Fit sample- 2 to 3 days

• Revised sampling- 2 to 3 days

• Size set sample- 15 days

• PP sample- 3-5 days


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Tech-pack from sampling

Base Pattern development

Grading

Size set pattern

Ammend Size set

Final pattern

Marker making

Calculate consumption (IE)

Revised Marker making

3. CAD (Computer Aided Designing)

3.1 PROCESS FLOW


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3.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

The cad department receives tech-packs from sampling department for

pattern development. The patterns are developed as per the spec sheet with

style details. The patterns are developed using Gerber Accumark PDS (8.2.1)

Package. Patterns developed manually are digitized using a digitizer (Gerber

Digitizer). The patterns prepared on the CAD are plotted on a plotting paper

by a Gerber Plotter. The plotted patterns are cut-out manually and pasted on

cardboard. These patterns are used for quality checking, referencing,

sampling purposes and cutting. After pattern development marker making is

done on AccuNest by importing the pattern pieces and placing them as per

the ratio in the tech-packs. The marker document consists of details such as

length, width and percentage utilization along with a pictorial diagram of

marker plan. During sampling stage the marker plan is sent to the IE

department for consumption calculations. A revised marker plan is made after

the bulk fabric has been received in the fabric store. The revised marker is

made on the basis of the actual diameter/width received and sent to the IE

department for revised consumption calculation. The final marker plan is

prepared and sent to the cutting section with the sealed patterns. The CAD

keeps the previously made patterns for future referencing in a stack.


CAD

PROD. MERCHANDISIN

G

QUALITY

CUTTING

IE

SAMPLING

IT


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• PROD. MERCHANDISING- The merchandiser checks the developed patterns

and also suggests changes if required to comply with the buyer needs.

• QUALITY- Quality department receives the sealed patterns for quality control

of cut pieces from cutting.

• CUTTING- The cutting receives the marker plan and pattern pieces for

cutting.

• IE- IE calculates the fabric consumption as per the marker plan developed so

as to determine and confirm the fabric consumption.

• SAMPLING- Development of pattern pieces for the purpose of sample

development is done by CAD

• IT- It maintains Network layout between Gerber Cutter and the CAD, and the

software and hardware.

CAD

No. of shifts 1

No. of Pattern Master 2

No. of Marker Makers 1

Area Covered 96 sft (12’ X 8’)

Machinery 1. Gerber digitizer (16 button cursor)

2. Gerber Plotter (Infinity series)

3. 4 Desktops

CAD Software Gerber Accumark

• PDS

• AccuNest

Storage Racks-2

Tables 2


Fans 4



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PI SHEET

SIZE SET CUTTING

QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION

SIZE SET APPROVAL

PRODUCTION PROGRAMME

FABRIC ISSUE REQUISITION

FABRIC ISSUE

SPREADING

CUTTING

TICKETING

BUNDLING

STORAGE

ISSUE

4. SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT

4.1 PROCESS FLOW


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The cutting department receives the PI sheet from the Production

Merchandiser which contains all the details of the order. Accordingly before

mass cutting sample cutting of size set (jump sizes) is done and sent to

quality department for approval. After receiving approval on the size set lay

order plan/production programme is prepared and sent to the CAD, cutting

and the spreader. The lay order plan is prepared as per the ratio to be cut and

the quantity to be cut. The spreader refers to the lay order plan for the length,

the number of plies and lays for spreading. Spreading is done either by

automatic spreader (Gerber XLS 50) or manually. Spreading for solid fabrics

is done by automatic spreader while for yarn dyed fabrics and striped fabrics

it is done manually. The spreading is done batch wise so as to avoid any

shade variation. Batch changes during spreading are differentiated using

fabric strips running across the length of the lay. No splicing is done and the

end bits that are left are used for the purpose of preparing piping. Relaxation

spreading of shrinkable fabrics is done. These are left as spread for 12-24 hrs

to relax and reduce the effect of shrinkage after cutting. Spreading for stripes,

yarn dyed fabrics is done in short lay lengths matching for stripes.

Cutting for solid and All Over Print (AOP) fabrics is done on automatic cutter

(Gerber GT7250). The cutter is movable between 3 spreading tables from

where the fabric lays are fed by air floatation. Cutting for yarn dyed, checks

and stripes are cut by Block cutting. Blocks according to size of patterns are

cut using a straight knife (Blue streak). The pattern pieces which can be cut

on fold are widthwise folded individually and layering done and cut using half

pattern pieces. It is also known as recutting. The cut pieces are transferred to

the QC table where cut pieces are randomly selected from the lot and verified

with original patterns. Checked lots are then sent for ticketing.

Ticketing is done to identify the lay number, batch and size. These tickets are

necessary to avoid shade variation and piece mix-match. Ticketing is done

using ticketing machines on each part and piece. After ticketing all the parts

of the garment are bought together and bundled as per their sizes and batch.

A Bundle ticket is attached to the bundle which contains details like, number

of pieces in bundle, lay number details, batch and other order details. Parts

that require fusing, embroidery or printing are separately bundled and sent to


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respective departments. After the auxiliary processes are complete these

pieces are returned to cutting and bundled along with other garment pieces

and sent for production. The cutting also reworking section that replaces the

cutting rejects from the sewing line with fresh pieces of same batch. In case

of rejections of garments from finishing the cutting provides extra cut pieces

with the fabric available to fulfill the order quantity. Piping for binding

purposes is prepared using piping cutter machines of requisite widths. For

this the end bits are stitched to form tubular fabrics on over lock stitching

machines.


SPREADING AND

CUTTING

PROD MERCHANDISING

FABRIC STORE

SEWING

QUALITY

EMBROIDERY

PRINTING

MAINTAINANCE

CAD


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• PROD MERCHANDISING- Provides the PI sheet and all the details of the

order to be cut.

• FABRIC STORE- It issues the fabric for cutting process as per the PI sheet.

• SEWING- Cutting issues all the cut pieces required for sewing process.

• QUALITY-Quality checks all the cut parts of a garment before they are sent to

sewing.

• EMBROIDERY- Pieces required for embroidery are sent to embroidery

department.

• PRINTING- Pieces required for printing are sent to printing department.

• MAINTAINANCE- Maintenance keeps all the machines in working condition

by preventive and breakdown maintenance.

• CAD- The pattern and the marker plan for spreading and cutting is provided

by the CAD department.


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SPREADING AND CUTTING

No. of shifts 1

No. of Workers 56

No. of Cutting master 2

Area Covered 39240sft

Machinery 1. Ticketing (Blitz Textil 2253)-10

2. Over lock (Juki)-2

3. Piping cutter (Svegea Sweden EC50)-2

4. SNLS(Juki)-2

5. SNLS (PFAFF)-2

6. Straight linear fusing press (Hashima

HP600LFS)

7. Straight knife (Blue streak)-8

8. Band knife (Eastman EC 900N/EC700N)-2

9. End Cutter (Eastman EC 3)-3

10. Continuous press with Folder for piping

press (Hashima HPM 600CA)-2

11. Straight linear fusing press (Hashima

HP600LFS)-1

12. Linear continuous press (Hashima

HP900L CS)

13. Gerber Cutter GT7250

14. Gerber spreader XLS50-2

MIS SAP and excel sheets

Storage • Racks-4 (end bits)

• Racks-2(piece replacement)

• Racks-2( running style patterns)

• Racks-4(piping storage)

Tables • Spreading tables-4 (20m X 2m)

• Printing and embroidery issue-1

• Printing and embroidery sorting-1

• Panel replacement-1

• CAD -2


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• Pipnig-1

• End bits-1

• Manual cutting(knits)-1

• Fusinng-1

• Bundling and ticketing-3

• Quality checking-2


Fans 96 (96 x 2)



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5. SEWING/PRODUCTION

5.1 PROCESS FLOW


The sewing floor consists of main production activities such as sewing,

finishing and packaging. Cut pieces for sewing are issued from the cutting

department to the sewing floor through lift. Reports are maintained regarding

issuals to sewing. Accordingly the pieces are issued to lines responsible for

sewing. There are storage racks to keep cut pieces at the start of every line.

Feeding is done into the line bundle wise. All parts of garment are assembled

together in roll form. Before assembly of pieces they are checked for any

quality related issues and accordingly rejected and recorded. An input

statement of the bundles is also maintained along with the details of the

rejected pieces. The rejected pieces are returned back to the cutting for

CUTTING ISSUE

LINE ISSUE

FEEDING

SEWING

END LINE CHECKING

FINISHING


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replacement to the line. Sewing lines follow unpaced manual Unit

Production System. The machines in the sewing line are laid out as per

sequence of the operations for knits and for woven bundle system is followed

for small parts and UPS for assembly. Each line has supervisor responsible

for managing daily production activities. Line writers are kept to track

production, arrange accessories, get replacement pieces from cutting, get

thread and maintain record. Usually 2 or 3 lines are tracked by one writer.

Every line has a Quality checker and every three lines have a Quality

assurance appointed by QC department. Operators at each workstation pick

up the garment from aisle space on the right side and perform the operation

required. After the operation the garment pieces are again rolled and pushed

ahead through aisle space for next operation. Check points are provided at

various points in the line and end line. Garments from the production line are

dispatched to the finishing on hourly basis. Before finishing the line writers

count the pieces produced size wise after every hour. Every workstation in

the sewing line is provided with necessary work aids to make the job easier

and a mechanical counter to account for the number of pieces produced per

hour which is recorded by line writer. This is used to calculate operator

efficiency and to find bottlenecks. Each line is provided with a production

board on which hourly and cumulative production is displayed. Counter

samples of the FFP sample are provided by the sampling which is hung at the

beginning and the end of the line. Every workstation has a miniature sample

of operation to be performed. Details of the machine and maintenance

records are also hung at every workstation. Format for Traffic Light System

used to track defects are provided by quality department for each

workstations. Storage boxes at check points are provided for collection of

rejected and alter pieces. The alter pieces are worked upon timely by the

concerned operators to avoid production loss. Each line is provided with its

own lighting facilities. Operators for operations are allocated based on their

training and experience due to unavailability of skill matrix. If daily target is not

met, overtime system is followed wherein only males work.


41


• IE- The department is responsible for preparing machine layouts, line setup,

managing productivity, efficiency, line balancing, time and method study.

• QUALITY- Quality department constantly monitors the production process for

quality assurance. It is responsible for placing check points in-line and end-

line.

• MAINTAINANCE- It constantly monitors the functioning of machines and

undertakes preventive or breakdown maintenance as required.

SEWING

IE

QUALITY

MAINTAINANCE

FINISHING/ PACKAGING

CUTTING

THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE

PPC


42

• FINISHING- It receives the production output directly from the sewing lines for

further processing.

• CUTTING- The cutting department issues cut parts as input for the sewing

lines.

• THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE- These stores provide required quantity of

thread accessories and trims on timely basis to sewing lines.

• PPC- It keeps track of the production so as to ensure that deadlines are met

and to take necessary correctional measures.

SEWING

No. of shifts 1

No. of Workers 500

No. of Quality Checker 20

No. of Quality assurance 7

Area Covered 51408 sft (including finishing)

Machinery Refer annexure.

MIS SAP (PP module)

Storage Racks-20

Tables 80


Fans 320 (20 X 16)



43

QUALITY

IE

SEWING

FINISHING / PACKAGING

CUTTING

FABRIC STORE

PROD. MERCHANDISE

R

CAD

EMBROIDERY/PRINTING

6. QUALITY



44

6.2 DEPARTMENTWISE ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

• IE- The IE department sends the Operation Bulletin and machine layout. The

quality department determines the check points (in line) by identifying the critical

operations based upon the buyer comments received upon the PP sample and

the complex operations.

• SEWING- Quality department assures quality production by appointing

checkers, Quality control and Assurance personnel within sewing lines to

monitor the production. The department also follows Traffic Light System

(TLS) where in defects origin can be easily identified and rectified. In the TLS

each workstation is equipped with the TLS format card. This card contains

details of the quality that is being produced from the workstation. The quality

control personnel is required to randomly check six pieces for six times during

the shift. There are six circles in the format for each inspection which is

coloured as per the number of defects found. There are three colours that

represent the result of inspection.

• Red – if found two or more defects

• Yellow – if found one defect

• Green – if found no defects.

Due to this it is called Traffic Light System. Using this system the QC

can identify the workstation where quality issue originates. In case of Red

colour the production from the workstation is stopped and solutions are looked

for. The QA personnel look after major quality concerns and checks the

details of the End Line checking. The QC is also responsible for developing

AQL reports at the end of the shift based upon buyer AQL levels at end-line

checking. The QC based upon his estimates for the production of the day,

selects the required produced pieces criteria and determines the sample size

for the AQL. QC then randomly inspects throughout the day of the required

sample size and compiles the AQL report. The AQL report is generated

similarly for in-line checking by the checker. The AQL reports helps in

classifying the defects into critical, major and minor criteria. The quality also

approves the size set pieces during pre-production phase.


45

• FINISHING- Quality department is responsible for checking that all the buyer

requirements are met before dispatch. The quality is checked after pressing,

folding, and packaging. After pressing the garments are sent to the final

checking tables where teams of checkers check the garments for various

defects. The defects found are classified and segregated for Spotting,

Alteration, Mending and Rejection. Minor spots are mended on the checking

table using petrol guns. The alterations are sent back to the respective lines

based on the line number sticker attached under the label by the end-line

checker. Mending is done on a separate table after which checking is done

again. Rejection pieces are sent to the rejection room and recorded. Each

Checker a sticker under the garment label containing a number specific to the

checker himself. Then after checking the garments are sent for tagging. After

folding it is checked whether it has been done as per buyer requirements.

Similarly various stages of packaging also checking are carried out to ensure

adherence to buyer compliance.

• CUTTING- Quality department regularly checks the cut pieces as per the

patterns provided by the CAD. Department is also involved in the pre

production phase where before bulk cutting, size set samples are approved

before and after pressing. The quality checks the markers before cutting to

ensure all requisite parts of the particular style are present.

• FABRIC STORE- Quality department conducts inspection of received fabrics

using Four point system and gives the reports on the feasibility on usage of

the fabrics. It prepares colour continuity card for shade variation in the

received lot and divide them in respective batches. They also check the GSM

(knits), width/diameter and length (woven). They look for knitting, dyeing and

finishing defects in the fabric. A lot of fabric after arrival goes through 10% of

lot inspection. If positive, fabric is approved for production else it is subjected

to 25% inspection excluding the previous 10%. If fabric fails then it is

subjected to 50% checking excluding previous checked lot failing which the

fabric is sent back to mill. On roll diameter variation is also recorded and

minimum diameter is recorded as cuttable diameter. Usually 1- 1 ½ “of fabric

end is left while measuring cuttable diameter due to end gumming and end


46

pinning. These reports are sent to IE, CAD and Merchandising department for

revised consumption calculation.

• PROD. MERCHANDISER- Production merchandiser sends the buyer

comments received on PP sample to the Quality department to ensure that

these are looked after during production and also to determine in-line check

points. And all major quality related issues during production are highlighted

and sent to merchandiser by the Quality department regularly.

• CAD- It provides the quality department with pattern pieces and the marker

plan for quality control purposes.

• EMBROIDERY/PRINTING- The quality department assigns a QC in these

departments who checks the quality parameters of the outgoing materials to

cutting. Parameters such as colour quality, fastness, shade, shape, size,

thread type and their finishing. The chemicals used have to be in adherence

to the buyer compliance.

QUALITY

No. of shifts 1

No. of Checkers 45



Documentation AQL report(in-line, end-line, final and dupro)

Fabric Inspection Report

Size set approval report

Storage Cupboards (AQL samples)



47

RECEIVE GARMENT

STICKERING

PRESSING

FIINAL CHECKING

TAGGING

FOLDING

PRIMARY PACKAGING

SECONDARY PACKAGING

TERTIARY PACKAGING

FINAL INSPECTION

REPACKING

TO DISPATCH

7. FINISHING/PACKAGING

7.1 PROCESS FLOW


48


The garments from the end-line after counting are bought for stickering. In the

stickering process all the tickets on all the garment parts are removed and only a

single ticket is left at the centre neck/waist band label of the garment. After

stickering the garments are sent for pressing. Steam press are used for pressing.

During pressing the pressers ensure that the size of each garment parts are

within tolerance for this purpose they are provided with hard paper scales having

size markings for different parts of different sizes by quality department. The

pressed garments are counted and stored. Then these garments are sent for

100% final checking where all possible defects are checked. The faulty garments

are divided into SPOTTING, ALTER, MENDING and REJECTION. Rejections are

sent to the rejection room and recorded. Alters are sent back to the lines from

where they have been produced for alterations required. Mending of defects such

as small holes, torn yarns and contamination removal are done. Minor spotting is

done by the final checking itself by using petrol guns. In case of major spots it is

sent to the spotting rooms. Spotting room is equipped with two specialise spotting

machines that can be used to remove various spots by the use of various

chemicals. Then these garments are sent back for pressing. After final checking

Tagging is done wherein different tags such as barcode tags, buyer tags and

price tags are attached with the help of plastic lock tag pins. Folding is done as

per buyer approval. An approved folded sample is hung in the folding section.

After folding garments, they are packed using primary packing materials such as

poly-bags, hanger and packing box. After primary packaging the packed piece

are sent to packing section by passing them through a metal detector to avoid

metal contamination. In the packaging section secondary and tertiary packaging

such as blisters and cartoon packaging is done. As per buyer requirements after

80-100% packaging final inspection is performed on the packed lot. The final

inspection is performed by a third party approved by the buyer. The inspection is

performed on the AQL level decided by the buyer. The inspection is of destructive

nature where the whole sample size is completely checked for any possible

defects. Based on this inspection the shipment is approved. The inspected

garments are repacked and sent to dispatch. Reports such as daily rejection,

finishing and packaging reports are maintained.


49


• QUALITY- Quality is involved in ensuring that proper finishing and packaging

is done.

• MAINTAINANCE- Maintenance looks after the press machines and steam

generators regularly to ensure smooth functioning.

• PPC- PPC keeps track of the pace of work so that the FI and shipment date

are met.

• SEWING- Finishing receives garment from end-line.

• DISPATCH- Dispatch receives packed cartons for shipment.

• PROD. MERCHANDISING- It provides the details of buyer approval regarding

folding, packaging and carton packaging ratios.

FINISHING/ PACKAGING

QUALITY

MAINTAINANCE

PPC

SEWING

DISPATCH

PROD. MERCHANDISING


50

FINISHING AND PACKAGING

No. of shifts 1

No. of Workers 175 (pressers, workers, checkers, helpers)



Machinery 1. Ramsons steam generator -3

2. Ramsons veit pressing vacuum table- 49

3. Strapping machines-10

4. Folding machine (shirt)-4

5. Petrol guns-20

6. Spotting tables(Ramsons stain buster

CL1)

7. Tagging gun-20

8. Metal detector-2

9. Weighing machine

10. Trolley hydro-2

Chemicals used 1. Rust remover(textile stain)

2. LTK-45 (yellow & black stains coloured

fabric)

3. N9 (color stains on light coloured fabric)

4. Hypobleach (black stain from white

fabric)

5. Emerol-ol (grease and hard mud stains)

6. Tin-ol (embroidery and printing stains)

Storage Racks-6

Boxes -35 (Neel-kamal)

Tables Tables (2.5’ X 11’) – 20

Inspection tables- 20

Tables (2.5’ X 5’)-11



51

8. MAINTENANCE


The maintenance department looks after all the machines in the garment

division. The department is mainly responsible for:

o Machine maintenance,

� Preventive maintenance, and

� Break down maintenance.

The maintenance department follows various procedures to ensure that the

machines are in working condition and do not breakdown regularly. The

department is divided into two parts:

o Needle and spare parts department and

o Maintenance and repairs department

The needle and spare parts department is responsible for storage and issue

of needles and machine spare parts. Department follows a ZERO NEEDLE

POLICY. In this policy it is required to find all the parts of a broken needle

before replacing it. The policy has been implemented as per buyer

requirements. In case a needle breaks, the operator reports to line supervisor

who in turn reports to the maintenance. A mechanic is issued a set of needles

for replacement purposes along with a reporting chart for each needle box.

Whenever a needle is replaced all the parts of the broken needle are pasted

on the chart along with signature of the supervisor. Only when the mechanic

returns completely filled report with all the broken needle parts of the replaced

needles is he issued a new box of needles. In case the needle parts are not

retrieved as per rule the supervisor and the mechanic must check within two

meter diameter for 15 minutes and also check all the garments within this

range by a magnetic bar. If the parts are still not found then the contaminated

garment of this range are passed through large metal detector. If any garment

is found with needle contamination it is separated and then the quality

department checks the pieces by hand metal detector and keeps the record

and these garments are rejected.


52

NEEDLE BREAKAGE

REPORT TO MAINTENENCE

SEARCH FOR ALL APRTS OF THE NEEDLE

FOUND

DEPOSIT

RECORD

REPLACE

NOT FOUND

SEARCH WITH MAGNETIC

BAR

CHECK WITH METAL HAND

DETECTOR

FOUND

DEPOSIT

RECORD

REPLACE

NOT FOUND

SEPARATE CONTAMINATED

GARMENTS

USE LARGE METAL

DETECTOR

FOUND

DPOSIT

RECORD

REPLACE

NOT FOUND

SEPARATE CONTAMINATED

GARMENTS

REJECT CONTAMINATED

GARMENTS

NEEDLE REPLACED

ZERO NEEDLE POLICY PROCESS FLOW:-


53

MAINTENANCE

QUALITY

IE

SEWINGFINISHING

& PACKAGING

CUTTING

8.2 PREVENTIVE AND BREAKDOWN MAINTENANCE

Preventive maintenance procedures are followed to ensure that the machines are

in proper working condition and do not breakdown. To meet this purpose a

preventive maintenance checklist is maintained at every workstation. Weekly

checks are performed for various machine parameters to check the condition of

the machine.

Breakdown maintenance is done in cases where machine malfunctions. In this

case the maintenance personnel attend the machine and correct the malfunction

as soon as possible to avoid production loss. A record of the maintenance done

is maintained on a breakdown maintenance sheet kept at the workstation for

reference purposes. The machines having frequent breakdowns are taken out

and replaced. There are three teams of mechanics, engineer and fitters in the

maintenance department for repair works. All major repair jobs are done in the

maintenance department. The department is equipped with all the required

machines, equipments and spare parts to cope with all kind of breakdowns.



54

• QUALITY- During line setup the quality department works in co-ordination

with maintenance for ensuring proper stitch settings. During Zeero Needle

Compliance the quality department assists the maintenance for checking the

garments for contamination.

• IE- Before the line setup IE sends the machine layout required. As per the

garment the maintenance department prepares the machines with appropriate

needle and attachments.

• SEWING- Maintenance department constantly looks after the machines in the

sewing line and does preventive and breakdown maintenance.

• FINISHING & PACKAGING- The department looks after the maintenance of

needle detector machine, pressing, steam generator etc.

• CUTTING- The department looks after the maintenance of Gerber cutter,

spreader, straight knives, band knives etc. It also maintains a record of all the

replacement of blades of Gerber cutter.

MAINTENANCE

No. of shifts 1

No. of Engineers 3

No. of Mechanics 10

No. of Fitters 5

Documentation Zero needle policy report

Machine maintenance record

Storage Cupboards -4

Area 1188 sft (66’ X 18’)


Fans 10

Machinery • Lathe machine

• Drilling machine

• Buffing machine

• Solding machine

• Grinding machine


55

{(LENGTH X WIDTH X GSM) / 10000}/ NUMBER OF GARMENTS = CONSUMPTION PER GARMENT (KNITS)

o Length –length of marker

o Width – width of marker

o GSM – grams per square meter of fabric

o Number of garments – number of garments in the marker

9. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING (IE)


IE have the following roles and functions:-

1.1. Consumption calculation

1.1.1. Fabric

1.1.2. thread

1.2. Line setup

1.2.1. Machine layout

1.2.2. Machine set-up

1.2.3. Line balancing

1.3. Productivity and efficiency management

1.3.1. Time study

1.3.2. Method study

1.4. Costing

1.4.1. Query stage costing

1.4.2. Pre-production costing

1.4.3. Final costing

1.5. Capacity planning

1.5.1. Capacity booking

1.5.2. Learning curve

1.5.3. Production feasibility

1.5.4. Built up plan

1.6. Incentive planning

1.6.1. Worker incentive

9.1.1 Consumption:

9.1.1.1 Fabric Consumption calculation – Consumption calculations for fabric and

thread are done by the IE department. The fabric consumption calculation is done at

two stages. First, before the fabric is ordered and second, after the fabric is received

and inspected. After order confirmation the marker plan is made by the CAD and

sent for consumption calculation by the IE department. The department calculates

the fabric consumed per piece as per the marker provided with required wastages.

The calculations for knits and woven are done separately.


56

LENGTH OF MARKER / NUMBER OF GARMENTS (IN MARKER) = CONSUMPTION PER GARMENT (WOVEN)

In the pre-fabric booking phase the details of the fabric are provided by the

merchandiser as given by the buyer. Consumption per garment is calculated and

fabric is booked by the HO merchandisers based on this consumption. In the post-

fabric receiving phase the actual fabric details like Diameter, GSM, Length, Width,

etc of are sent to the IE for revised consumption calculation. Revised markers are

also prepared by the CAD based on the fabric received and sent t the IE. The IE

crosschecks the consumption requirements and informs the merchandiser in case of

any irregularities. In consumption calculations the fabric width wastage for knits is

taken to be 2” and for tubular 1”. The wastage added to the consumption per

garment for knits is 5% and for woven 3%.

9.1.1.2 Thread consumption calculation – Thread consumption calculation is done

on an estimation basis. The consumption is calculated in the pre-production phase.

The fit sample is provided to the IE by the merchandiser. The consumption is

calculated by using machine consumption ratios and seam length. The machine

ratios determine the consumption per centimetre of a particular seam. The

consumption is calculated with wastages up to 30% for all the thread types used in

the garment. The consumption per garment is calculated and sent to the

merchandiser, who in turn prepares the consumption for the order quantity and

sends it to the thread store for thread booking purposes.


57

Pitch time = SAM (garment) / number of operations

Number of machines required = SAM /Pitch time

9.1.2 Line setup – During the pre-production phase IE performs various functions

such as preparation of OB (operation bulletin), preparation of SAM’s, determining

type and the number of machines required.

9.1.2.1 Machine layout – Before starting with the production IE determines the

layout of the machines on the sewing line. This is based upon the sequence of

operations required. The number of machines required is calculated on the basis of

pitch time calculations. The pitch time is calculated as the sum of SAMs of the

garment divided by the number of operations and then a comparison is done

between the pitch time and the

SAM of each operation. If the

SAM value is more than the pitch

time then the machine required would be equal to the division of the SAM by the

pitch time, else a single machine is required for the operation. The machine layout

chart consists of the operation names, machine names with attachments, SAM

(expected) and target per hour. The estimated SAMs are provided using PDTS (pre

determined time standards). The SAM of the garment is calculated as the sum of

SAM of all the operations. And the production target for each operation per hour and

per day is calculated based on the expected efficiency.

9.1.2.2 Machine set-up – After the machine layout has been prepared the IE

department in co-ordination with the maintenance department gets the machines set

in the lines as per layout. The IE in co-ordination with other departments ensures

that the machines are properly set for production with right attachments and settings.

9.1.2.3 Line balancing – After the line has been set, IE looks after the production of

the line to check whether any operation requires more or less machines. This is done

for the purpose of optimization of production and efficiency to appropriate levels. IE

also performs time study to determine the actual SAM to compare with the estimated

value for this purpose.


58

9.1.3 Productivity and efficiency management – IE looks after the production and

efficiency of the lines to help the production meet its target and deadlines. Various

tools used for this purpose are time study and method study.

9.1.3.1 Time study – It is an analysis tool for measuring the actual time for each

operation. The time study is done using a stopwatch and recording sheet. It is

normally performed a week after line start-up. The time study is performed by ten

continuous cycle time recording for each operation. Average for these values is

calculated and a rating is given to the operators work. Based on the rating and the

average time average time is calculated. Allowance factors are allotted depending

upon the gender of the operator and the machine used in the operation. These

allowances in combination with their basic time are used for deriving the SAM value.

The time study is used for making pitch diagrams to identify bottlenecks in a line. A

pitch diagram is a graphical representation of production of each workstation. The

lowest point on this graph is taken to be estimated production of the line. This lowest

value is also identified as the bottleneck operation. For which various steps are taken

to improve its production. These steps include method study of the operation,

physical check of the machine, sewing operation parameters, nature of fabric and

material handling and motivation of operator to upgrade.

9.1.3.2 Method study – Method study is performed by studying the operational

methods used by the operators. The main aim of the method study is to provide easy

and streamlined way of doing an operation. The method study aims at reducing

wasteful or avoidable movements in order to reduce time for the completion of the

operation. It is done by observing the operators initial work methods and recording

the details of work method such as elemental time required for each type of motion

and frequency of motion. Analysing the recorded data and finding a feasible solution

to reduce the manual work and cycle time a new work method is proposed. The

proposed work method is tested for feasibility and accordingly implemented.


59

CMT = {(SAM of garment) X (cost/min of factory)}/ efficiency (expected)

Cost/min of factory – It is the cost of running the factory for a min.

9.1.4 Costing – The IE department is responsible for costing at three stages. Query

stage, pre-production stage and final costing.

9.1.4.1 Query stage costing – Query is a stage at which a buyer approaches the

company for the purpose of acquiring the approximate details of the costing for a

style of which the buyer proposes production. At this stage the IE provides the rough

estimate on the manufacturing cost of the garment to the buyer on past data and

experiences. This costing is marked up for the purpose of negotiation.

9.1.4.2 Pre-production costing – After the order confirmation the buyer decides the

rate at which it will pay the company. Using this cost as the basis costing is done so

as to ensure considerable profits. The costing at this stage mainly consists of

material cost, CMT charges (Cut Make Trim) and profit. It is necessary at this stage

to adjust the cost at lowest possible. To meet such requirements tries to keep a

control on the consumption quantity of materials. The CMT charges are calculated

department wise as per the machinery and labour invested. The CMT charges are

also affected by the purchase of new machinery for the manufacturing of the order.

These details are sent to the HO for compilation of cost for the order.

9.1.4.3 Final costing – This costing is the final costing done at the completion of

order to calculate the cost incurred for order completion. Using reconciliation

statements of various departments such as stores, cutting, sewing, finishing and

packaging final costing is done to compare the cost with the one given at pre-

production phase. Any kind of revision in consumption of materials and work

investment that are done in-house is highlighted. If the revision is incurred due to the

demands of the buyer then the cost for that is added to the buyer’s cost. The final

objective of this costing is to determine profit or loss that factory incur.


60

9.1.5 Capacity planning – The IE does capacity planning during the pre-production

phase in which it prepares a plan for production on monthly basis depending upon

the capacity available in the factory. Capacity booking consists of balancing work

between different work departments such as cutting, sewing, embroidery, printing,

finishing and packaging depending upon their available capacities.

9.1.5.1 Capacity booking – In capacity booking it is checked whether the

departments in the factory can meet the production requirements of the orders. It

also helps in determining if the orders are to be executed in-house or be given for

job-work. The capacity booking depends upon constraints such as machinery and

production capacity available. It also helps in planning the work as per capacity and

helps in deciding the time period up to which production shall take place depending

upon various variables. In this the requisition of new machinery is also looked after if

required.

9.1.5.2 Learning curve – The learning curve is used for estimating the production

timeline and efficiency at which a style will be produced. There are four types of

learning curves:

• Fast

• Rapid

• Normal

• Slow

The type of learning curve used to estimate the production pick-up is determined by

the styling of the garment. Easier the style steeper (faster) the learning curves.

9.1.5.3 Production feasibility – IE checks the production feasibility for a style

during the sampling stages by checking the machine and attachment requirements.

Feasibility is also decided on the basis of the complex styling of the garment.

9.1.5.4 Build up plan – A build up plan is a plan made up of daily production targets

in advance for an order based upon Efficiency, Learning curve, Capacity and other

production variables. It is represented in a timeline format with daily as well as

cumulative production target. It is prepared separately for each department.


61

9.1.6 Incentive planning (workers incentive) – An incentive is awarded daily to

operators for meeting or exceeding their productions targets. The incentive is

awarded on various criteria such as SAM of the garment and minimum incentive

quantity. Incentives are allocated using incentive slabs based upon range of SAM.

The range of SAM decides the product category. Incentive plan is based on these

product categories. For example a garment with a SAM of 12.5 min will lie in a

category of Product 4 (12-14 min). According to the product category for minimum

incentive minimum production per tailor is decided. The target to be achieved to be

eligible for incentive is calculated as product of the number of tailors and target per

person. If the actual production of line is more than the target then production per

person is found and the incentive rate is selected in the incentive rate slab under the

appropriate product category. The total operator incentive is calculated as the

product of the incentive rate and the total production and incentive per operator is

calculated by dividing this value by the number of operators. Per helper incentive is

calculated as half the value of per operator incentive.


62

IE

QUALITY

SEWING

PROD.

MERCHANDISING

PPCMAINTAINENCE

FABRIC STORE

CAD


• SEWING – The IE dept has various responsibilities relating to production such

as Productivity and efficiency mgmt, line setup, incentive planning etc. these

roles and functions are necessary for optimizing production and maximum

utilization of available resources.

• Quality - The IE sends the machine layout to the Quality department for the

purpose of identifying in-line check points in accordance to buyer comments.

• PROD. MERCHANDISING – The IE dept interacts with the Production

merchandiser for costing and consumption estimation purposes. The IE

assists the merchandiser in the process of costing.

• PPC – The IE in coordination with the PPC department does the planning for

production. Capacity planning, booking and production timeline is done in

coordination with the PPC. Time and action calendar prepared by PPC is

used as a reference for planning production. The IE dept also makes the


63

Build-up plan for each department depending on capacities for meeting

production targets.

• MAINTAINENCE – The IE department provides the maintenance department

with the required machine layout for preparing the machine and attachments

as required for production purpose.

• FABRIC STORE – The fabric store communicates with the IE department in

relation to the bulk fabric received and their inspection reports for the purpose

of revised consumptions on received fabric.

• CAD – The CAD department makes the marker plan on the basis of which the

IE calculates the consumption.


64

10. PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING


The production merchandiser functions at the factory level and is different from the

merchandisers who coordinate with buyers from head quarters. The production

merchandisers do tracking and follow –up of orders in order to ensure that the work

is completed in time and meets all buyer requirements. The merchandisers are

responsible for each and every activity during order completion. The merchandiser

is required to get approval from the buyer regarding and aspect of the order ranging

from sampling, sewing to packaging. Merchandiser plays a centre role in

coordinating, instructing departments and decision making regarding any order

related issue.

10.1.1 PRE-PRODUCTION PHASE

In the pre-production phase, production merchandiser is sent a tech pack from the

buyer on lines of which sampling is to be done. The merchandiser along with the

sampling look after meeting buyer needs and keep record of them. Consumption

calculation and details for compiling costing and booking are done and procured

from the IE department. The details of the consumption and costing are sent to head

quarters. A Production information sheet is sent from the Head quarters that contains

all production related information necessary for production execution .This PI sheet

is sent to cutting, stores, embroidery/printing, sewing and finishing for complying with

the requirements.

10.1.2 PRODUCTION PHASE

After the PP sample from buyer is approved the merchandiser sends the buyer

comments received to all departments for reference. In the production phase the

merchandiser looks after major issues that arise in production and follow up the

details with H.O merchandisers regarding progress in work. As per buyer

requirement the merchandiser also provides each department with department

specific instructions provided by the buyer, for e.g. folding technique, Packaging

method and ratios. Merchandiser remains involved with the follow up and decision

making of the order from beginning till the shipment.


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10.1.3 POST-PRODUCTION PHASE

In the post production phase the merchandiser tracks and follows up the final

inspection. It is also necessary to ensure that the order is ready on time and shipped

as required. At this stage it is required to compile a report of the actual cost incurred

for profit /loss analysis purpose. The merchandiser in coordination with the IE

compiles the data relating to final costs incurred. This costing is based upon RECO

statements of departments and cost incurred by each. This costing is sent to the H.O

for accounting Profit and loss.


PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING

QUALITY

PPC

FABRIC STORE

CAD

EMBROIDERY

PRINTING

FINISHING &

PACKAGING

SAMPLING


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• QUALITY – The merchandiser provides the comments received on the PP

sample to the quality department for keeping it in view while quality checks.

• PPC – The merchandiser follows up the details about various production

phases to the PPC department for the purpose of tracking revising and

following the TNA calendar.

• FABRIC STORE – The merchandiser receives communication regarding the

fabric received and their inspection report for crosschecking of the actual

fabric details to that of the booked fabric details.

• CAD – The merchandiser provides tech-pack details, size ratios and grading

details for preparing the patterns and marker plan.

• EMBROIDERY/ PRINTING – The merchandiser provides the art work

required in the garment to these departments.

• FINISHING & PACKAGING – The merchandiser provides the details

regarding folding and packaging.

• SAMPLING – The merchandiser follows up all the details of all stages of

sampling and all the communication between sampling and buyer goes

through this department only. The merchandiser is also responsible for

receiving approval for various samples from buyer.


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11. PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL (PPC)

11.1 PROCESS FLOW


11.2.1 Pre production phase

After OCM details of the order are sent to the production merchandiser who in turn

sends it to the PPC department. PPC department then starts the planning in order to

determine the timeline during which each production activity has to be performed. To

meet this purpose the PPC works in co-ordination with the IE department for

capacity booking and planning. As per the capacity booking the planning for the in-

house production is done. TNA action calendar is prepared accordingly to determine

the duration for each activity. The TNA calendar consists of various dates such as

sample approval, fabric booking, fabric receiving, production cut date, final

inspection and shipment. A 90 day lead time on an average is taken for order

completion. The FI (final inspection) date is calculated as three day before the

shipment date. The PCD (production cut date) is determined by backward

calculations from the FI date and the days required for production purpose. The

period between the order booking and the PCD is utilized for sampling and material

procurement. The days required for production is calculated on the basis of capacity,

efficiency, labour turnover, learning curve and other production variables.

OCM

PLANNING

TNA

CONTROLLING


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11.2.2 Production phase

During the production phase the PPC is responsible for controlling the production

rate. Micro planning is done on daily basis with IE department to meet required

targets. PPC also keeps track on the material procurement dates such as fabric

received dated for the purpose of revising TNA calendar.

11.2.3 Post production phase

After the production PPC department keeps track of various activities such as

finishing, washing, packaging and inspection dates and details.


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12. EMBROIDERY

12.1 PROCESS FLOW

12.2 PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW

ARTWORK FROM BUYER

SAMPLING

APPROVAL

MASS PRODUCTION

PIECES FROM CUTTING

TESTING

EMBROIDERY

THREAD CUTTER

QUALTY INSPECTION

TO CUTTING


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The embroidery department has a separate sampling process. The artwork from the

buyer is directly received via merchandiser. The department works on that artwork

on the CAD software Wilcom ES65. The artwork is redeveloped and samples are

made and sent for approval. During the garment sampling phase the embroidery on

the samples is done as per buyer approved artwork. During production the pieces

requiring embroidery are received in bundle form. Embroidery is done on some of

the pieces and checked by the QC against the buyer approved sample. After

checking embroidery on the bundle pieces is done sequentially and sent for thread

cutting. The protruding threads and fusing or lining fabrics are cut and finished.

These pieces are then checked for quality, re-bundled and sent back to cutting

department. During embroidery the centre point of the artwork is marked on a table

using pins. A hoop is placed around the pins and another hoop on which the fabric

piece is fastened and pressed over it. After the hoop is secured tightly they are

placed under the machine heads with reference to the needle mark on the fabric.

The design developed in the CAD is fed in the machine and embroidery is done as

required. There are four 18-head embroidery machines (Barudan) which have

capacity of 9-threads per head. Sequins and bead attachments are also available if

required. A 6-head embroidery machine is also available. A sixteen thread machine

for complex embroideries is also available. Tear-able nonwoven linings are used as

backing in embroideries. There are two types of tear-able nonwoven linings in use:

(1 X 1) and (2 X 2). (1 X 1) is used for achieving high quality finish and is costly. For

appliqué works a laser engraving and cutting machine is used. The appliqué fabric is

cut using this machine and attached to the fabric piece using embroidery and

pasting. A needle detector used for detecting needles in case of needle breakage as

per Zero Needle Policy. The consumptions for thread used here are provided by this

department itself.


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EMBROIDERY


QUALITYCUTTING


• PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING – Prod merchandising provides the art

work and follows up it with buyer for approvals.

• QUALITY – Quality is involved in checking proper embroidery as per buyer

needs.

• CUTTING – The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which

embroidery is required and receives the output.

EMBROIDERY

No. of shifts 1

No. of Workers 30

Storage Racks 10

Area 1584 sft (88’ X 18’)


Machinery • Barudan (18 head 9 thread)-4

• Barudan (6 head 9 thread)-1

• Amaya XT (16 colour)

• Golden laser cutting machine-1

• Hashima metal detector


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13. PRINTING

13.1 PROCESS FLOW

13.2 PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW

ARTWORK FROM BUYER

PREPARATION OF SCREEN

SAMPLING

APPROVAL

MASS PRODUCTION

PIECES FROM CUTTING

PREPARATION OF COLOUR

PRINTING

CURING

QUALTY INSPECTION

TO CUTTING


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The printing department does following types of prints for garments:

• Plastic-sol print

• Discharge print

• PVC free print

• Glitter print

• Foil print

• HD print (high definition)

• Heat transfer print

• Pigment print

The common printing technique used for these prints is screen printing. The artwork

from the buyer is directly received via merchandiser. The department works on that

artwork on the Adobe Photoshop CS3 software. The artwork is redeveloped, Screen

prepared and samples are made and sent for approval. During the garment sampling

phase the printing on the samples is done as per buyer approved artwork and the

colors are selected as per the pantone chips sent by the buyer. During production

the pieces requiring printing are received in bundle form. Printing is done on some of

the pieces and checked by the QC against the buyer approved sample. After

checking printing on the bundle pieces is done sequentially and sent for curing.

These pieces are then checked for quality, re-bundled and sent back to cutting

department.

Types of colours used are of two type water base and oil based. PVC free and

Pigment are water based while Plastic-sol is oil based. Screens are prepared UV

light exposure method. The screen fabric used is 15T to 180T. They can be of

maximum size 3’ X 2’. The fabric is fastened on the frame and a chemical (Diazo

cure) is applied all over the screen. Then the screen is semi-cured in a heater. The

design is printed on a water-proof film and is placed centrally aligned on the screen.

The screen is then placed in an exposing machine (Nu-arc Tri-light) and exposed in

UV light. The areas not covered by design harden and become black while the other

areas remain transparent. Then the screen is washed and cured and checked on the

touching table, if required re-exposing is done. The screen is then fitted on the

machine and the required color is prepared. Before beginning with the mass

production a sample printing is done to check whether the required colour is

obtained or not. Then batch-wise printing is done on the printing machine. There are


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three screen printing machines of which two are automatic and one is manual. Up-to

10 colour printing can be done on the manual while in the automatic 10-16 colours

can be applied. The machine rotates the garment piece under the screen heads. The

screens descend on the pieces and automatic squeezing system applies colours.

The number of strokes and number of squeeze depend upon the shade required.

After printing the pieces are cured on a continuous curing machine. Then the pieces

are checked, re-bundled and sent back to cutting.


• PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING – Production merchandising provides the

art work and follows up it with buyer for approvals.

• QUALITY – Quality is involved in checking proper printing as per buyer

needs.

• CUTTING – The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which

printing is required and receives the output.

PRINTING


QUALITYCUTTING


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PRINTING

No. of shifts 2

No. of Workers 26

Storage Racks 8

Area 1870 sft (85’ X 22’)

Tubelights 28 (14 x 2)

Machinery • Cheran fusing machines-2

• Transwift mini curing machine

• M&R Chameleon manual printing machine

(10 colour)

• M&R challenger II –(10 colour) automatic

• M&R challenger II –(16 colour) automatic

• M&R sprint 2000 – automatic continuous

curing machine

• HIX fusing machine

• Nu-Arc tri-light exposing machine

• M&R Digikote’T’ automatic coating

machine

• 1 chamber heater.

• Eye washer

• Washing machine

• Weighing machine


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14. INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY (IT)


The IT department at Alok garment division, Saily looks after the IT infrastructure

and its maintenance. There are various types of server like, E-mail, application, DNS

(Domain Name Server) and anti-virus. ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) such as

SAP (System Application of Production Planning) and Production Fast-react are

used. Switches are used and bus topology is used for wired and star topology for

wireless networks. Virtual LAN system is used for network configuration. The SAP

system is centrally controlled from H.O. There are four main modules of SAP such

as

• Production planning (PP module)

• Material management (MM module)

• Sales and distribution (SD module)

• Finance module (FI module)

Store departments use MM modules for inward and outward. The production

departments such as cutting, sewing and finishing use the PP module for recording

input and output. SD module is used by marketing and sales departments. The FI

module is used by finance, accounts and administration department. Various other

reports are maintained manually using MS-excel other than ERP for backup

purpose. Major reports maintained are:

14.1.1 DFR (Daily Factory Report)

14.1.2 DER (Daily Efficiency Report)

14.1.3 DPR (Daily Production Report)

14.1.4 End-line report (hourly)

14.1.5 Daily rejection report (DR)

14.1.6 DHU percentage report (Defects per Hundred Units)

14.1.7 Operator efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly)

14.1.8 Style efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly)

14.1.9 Incentive reports


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14.1.1 DFR (Daily Factory Report) – A daily factory report is compiled at the end of

the day. The report contains detailed production statistics of the work departments

cutting, sewing, finishing, embroidery, printing and packaging. The production is

compiled buyer/style-wise and line-wise. This report overall view of production of the

factory.

14.1.2 DER (Daily Efficiency Report) – An efficiency report is maintained line-wise

on daily basis for a month.

14.1.3 DPR (Daily Production Report) – A DPR is maintained on daily basis

buyer-wise and line-wise for all the work activities performed. The DPR defers from

the DFR as it represents size-wise details of each work activity.

14.1.4 End-line report (hourly) – End-line report is maintained for each line on an

hourly basis for end-line production.

14.1.5 Daily rejection report (DR) – The daily rejection report is maintained for both

sewing and finishing.

14.1.6 DHU percentage report (Defects per Hundred Units) – The DHU

percentage is measured as the amount of defects per hundred units produced. The

DHU is important for the purpose of quality control and to identify major/frequently

occurring departments. The defects are classified and recorded respectively and

line-wise.

14.1.7 Operator efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) – The report

is compiled for the purpose of assessments and learning curve developments.

14.1.8 Style efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) – This report is

maintained date-wise and line-wise. It contains the efficiency and the production

achieved in a particular style. At the end of the style production a summary is

compiled to know the average efficiency at which the style was produced. This

bakchod report helps in future projections for capacity booking and planning

purpose.

14.1.9 Incentive reports – This is generated on daily basis for calculating and

recording incentives line-wise.


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PROJECT OBJECTIVE:

To optimize thread consumption calculations using calculator

METHODOLOGY:

Study the process flow of thread consumption calculation.

Identify key areas of concern in calculation.

Following some of the finished and running styles of different buyers.

Analysis of various key points of thread consumption

Proposal of a possible solution using IT tools

Development of thread cosumption calculator

Testing of the proposed solution

Comparison of the results with previous results

Implementation


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1. Estimating Thread Consumption

INTRODUCTION

It is important to know the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product so as to

estimate requirements for manufacturing finished product. Thread consumption can

be determined in several ways. To calculate the amount of thread in a seam:

1) Measure the actual amount of thread consumed in a specific length of seam.

2) Calculate the thread consumption by using mathematical stitch formulas

based on the thickness of the seam and the number of stitches per inch.

3) Calculate the thread consumption using thread consumption estimates.

ESTIMATED THREAD CONSUMPTION

Estimated thread consumption is calculated using thread consumption factor values

of various machines. A specified length of the seam, for example 3 cm is measured

on the seam and the thread is removed by carefully unravelling the stitch. Then the

amount of thread consumed in one centimetre is multiplied with the factor times the

total length of the seam measured in cm(s). The factors for each machine/stitch type

is estimated average values based upon a middle SPI.These factors are an average

value of thread consumed in a cm of a particular seam .

If different types of threads are used in the garment then it’s necessary to

differentiate the consumption per thread. This differentiation is done at the seam

calculation stages when the consumption per seam is calculated by the help of

consumption percentages for needle bobbin and loopers per machine type. If in case

spreader is used in case of flatlocks then the consumption for looper and spreader is

evenly distributed.


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Table1.1 – Thread consumption factors*

Sl.

No Machine name

Factor

(per cm) %needle

%looper/bbn

1 Single needle lock stitch 2.5 50% 50%

2 Double needle lockstitch 5 50% 50%

3 Single needle chain stitch 5.5 25% 75%

4 Double needle chain stitch 11 25% 75%

5 4 needle chain stitch 22 25% 75%

6 Baby over lock 24 20% 80%

7 3 thread over lock 15 20% 80%



10 Flat lock (3 thread) 18 30% 70%



13 Single thread chain stitch 4 100% 0%

14 Welt pocket 5 50% 50%

15 Zig zag lockstitch 7 50% 50%

16 Saddle / pic stitch 3.5 100% 0%

17 Feed of the arm (2needle) 11 30% 70%

18 Feed of the arm (3needle) 16.5 30% 70%

19 Bartack 50 77% 23%

20 Button hole 50 75% 25%

21 Buttoning 40 100% 0%

22 Picotting stitch 28 25% 75%

23 Blind hemming 5 100% 0%

24 Baby o/l (3t) 28 20% 80%

26 Smocking 5 100% 0%

25 Radial tacking 50

27 Whip / blanket stitch 8.5

28 Fagotting stitch 5.5

*The factors table for machines and the various distribution factors have been developed by the industry personnel (IE dept)

Alok industries Ltd(Garments division Saily,Silvassa).


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Chart 2.1:- Process flow

2. Study the process flow of thread consumption calculation.

PROCESS FLOW

Garment received in IE Dept

Fomation of operation bulletin

Measurement of the seams and recording

Identification of thread types

Format development for calculation

Data entry for calculation

Thread consumption distribution

calculating consumption

formation of report for merchandiser


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Fig 2.1:- Consumption calculation format

1. Garment received in IE Dept

I.E. dept. receives the garments from the merchandiser after the approval for fit/size

set is received. The calculation for consumption (fabric, thread) and S.A.M value is

done following the receival.

2. Formation of operation bulletin

The first step in thread consumption calculation is the formulation of the operation

bulletin(OB).This helps in identification of various seams used in the garment.

3. Measurement of the seams and recording

The seams identified in the previous step are measured using measuring tape. The

measured seams are recorded accordingly. The measurements are carried out in

centimetres (cms). This iis usually done to ease the work of calculation as the

factors are available for per cm.

4. Identification of thread types

As garments may contain/made up of different kinds of threads its necessary to

identify locations where different types of threads are used in order to quantify their

consumptions required for placing orders for purchase purposes.

5. Format development for calculation

An excel sheet

format is developed

for the purpose of

calculation.


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Fig 2.2 - Example of thread distribution

Total consumption (mts) = (seam-length (S.L)(cm) X factor(per cm)/100) X No. of seams

Consumption (mts) = Percent consumption Per seam of needle/bobbin/looper X Total

consumption in seam

6. Data entry for calculation

Data relating to the seam lengths and the factor corresponding to the type of seam

used is entered into the excel sheet format developed. The factors are referenced

from the standard factors readily developed by the IE dept.

7. Thread consumption distribution

The distribution of consumption as per the threads required in each seam is done by

typing the consumption formulas in the corresponding thread columns.

8. Calculating consumption

The thread consumption per seam is calculated using the formula:

The formula helps in formulation of total thread consumed in a seam irrespective of

the types of threads used. To segregate the consumption of different threads used in

needle, bobbin and spreader the following formula is used:


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Based on consumptions of needle bobbin and spreader the consumptions are

allotted/allocated to the thread type used.

9. Formation of report for merchandiser

Calculated thread consumption is compiled into a suitable report format so as to be

sent to the merchandiser for the purpose of booking the thread for a required

amount of thread quantity. The IE dept only calculates per garment consumption for

a single approved sample of a particular size.


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3. Identification and analysis of key areas of concern in calculation.

It is necessary to identify various variables involved in the calculation process

required as these variables influence the consumption. The various variables

involved are as follows:

• Seam – Length measurement

• Wastage percentage

• Thread distribution per seam (needle/bobbin/spreader).

• Type of seam , garment and fabric type

⊕⊕⊕⊕ Seam-Length measurement

The seam length is an important factor influencing thread consumption. Seam length

also determines how much waste and extra per seam of thread will be consumed.

Preferably extra length is taken so as to consider the wastage during making the

seam.

⊕⊕⊕⊕ Wastage percentage

The wastage percentage is an important factor that helps determining the wastage

required to cover the waste during production. Generally the wastage is taken to be

30 % of total consumptions.

⊕⊕⊕⊕ Thread distribution per seam (needle/bobbin/spreader)

The distribution of thread per seam (i.e. needle /bobbin/spreader), is a necessity for

the purpose of determining and quantifying the amount of thread required. Any

variation in the distribution can lead to less/more consumption of a particular thread.

⊕⊕⊕⊕ Type of seam/Garment and fabric type

The consumption also depends on the type of seam as different seams have

different factors and thus the consumption variates. Any error in identification can

lead to wrong consumption calculations. Consumptions also depend on the fabric

type and garment construction technique as a light weight and difficult constructed

seam have more consumptions as there are chances of error occurrences in them.


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Chart 3.1- Problems in consumption calculation

3.1 Problems during thread consumption calculations

The following are the commonly observed problems during thread consumption

calculations(manual) presently followed:


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4. Proposal of a Feasible Solution Using IT Tools

The solution proposed for the problems identified is based upon reduction of manual

inputs in order to proportionately reduce the time consumed and the chances of error

occurrences.

In order to solve the above enlisted problem we proposed a Thread consumption

calculator(15 thread) ,built in regular excel sheets using various programming tools

and controls.

The objectives of the calculator are as follows:

1. Eliminate the manual entry of factors for each seam type.

2. Eliminate the need of formula entry for calculations.

3. Eliminate the process of segregating consumption for different thread types.

4. Eliminate manual calculation errors.

5. Simplifying and automatic calculation of thread consumption.

6. Developing a user friendly and readily available interface and format.

7. Automatic report generation of thread consumption for merchandiser.

8. Ease in calculation of consumptions of styles having up to 15 thread types

9. Provide accurate and reliable results in less time.

4.1 Benefits of proposal

The calculator shall provide a low cost and act as a feasible solution with the various

objectives on which it has been developed.

The calculator developed report has been developed on line with report compiled by

the merchandiser for the order quantity that is forwarded to the thread store for the

purpose of thread booking

The report generated shall also reduce the work of the merchandiser to compile and

calculate consumption of the whole order quantity based on consumptions per

garment determined by the IE dept.

The merchandiser would only be required to check the figures provided by the IE

dept and continue by forwarding the report to the thread store.


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CONCEPTUALIZING

DESIGNING

DEVELOPMENT

TESTINGIMPLEMENTATION

5 SOLUTION DEVELOPMENT (CALCULATOR)

5.1 CONCEPTUALIZING

In this process the concept of the calculator was developed. The inputs and and

outputs required for the calculator have been designed in a way to reduce errors in

calculation to maximum extent.

The inputs required in the calculator are limited to that of seam length,operation

bulletin and number of seams. Combo-box list provide a more easy way of machine

selection for particular seam type.The selection of threads for needle ,bobbin and

spreader have also been provided with combo lists to enable easy, fast and

accurate selections.

Formulas in corresponding columns of needle, bobbin/looper,spreader and total

consumption provide automatic calculations by retrival of factors automatically from

the factor sheet.


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Automatic consumption report is generated as the consumption or data for

consumption is entered. This report is developed in a way that it reduces the

compiling work of the merchandiser.

5.2 DESIGNING

The calculator has been developed by keeping in mind a user friendly interface that

can easily be understood and used by anyone.

The calculator has been designed in worksheets using various linking , formula and

programming features of excel.

Consumptions for up to 15 Thread types can be determined by entering their

description in the thread description table.

Seventy five (75) rows have been provided to cover long operation bulletins.

Option for saving the consumption calculation file in user determined named location

has been provided.

Reset field option has been provided for instantly clearing field entries.

A generate report option has also been provided for the purpose of automatic report

generation.

Combo box controls have been used in columns of machine type ,needle,bobbin and

spreader thread description, wastage selection for the purpose of easy and quick

selection.

Linking between factor sheet and the main interface has been done using formulas

such that automatic retrieval of factors is possible thus reducing the need for

referencing the thread consumption ratio table and mismatch in values.

The report has been designed on lines of the real life report made by a merchandiser

for calculating consumption per thread for an order quantity for booking purposes.


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Fig 5.3.1.1:- Thread consumption factor sheet

5.3 DEVELOPMENT

5.3.1 FACTOR SHEET

The development of the calculator started with the data collection of the

factors/thread consumption ratios for different machines. This data was provided by

the IE dept of Alok industries Garments division.

A separate worksheet named “factors“ had been developed for the purpose of

tabulating the data of thread consumption ratios.


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Fig 5.3.2.1:- Welcome screen

Fig 5.3.3.1 – Consumption

report for Merchandiser

5.3.2 WELCOME SCREEN

The welcome screen contains a calculate button connected to the calculator

worksheet. This screen is purely a start-up screen meant for introductory display

purposes.

5.3.3 REPORT SCREEN

The report sheet consists of the report format which has links with that of

the calculator so as calculate the consumption for not only per garment

for various thread types but also for the order quantity of the particular

style. This report helps in shortening the process required for compiling

consumption for a order quantity.


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Fig 5.3.4.1.1– Total consumption calculation

5.3.4 Development tools and techniques

The calculator has been made using formulas, referencing and programming tools.

Linking has using sheet reference technique has been used for the purpose of value

retrieval.

5.3.4.1 Formulas

The formulas used range from mathematical, logical, lookup and reference and

information.

Some of the main formulas used are as follows:

• SUM()[mathematical]

• IF()[logical]

• OR()[logical]

• VLOOKUP(Lookup and referencing)

• ISERROR(information)


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Fig 5.3.4.1.3 – Needle /bobbin/spreader consumption allocation

using logical formulas

Fig 5.3.4.1.2– Needle /bobbin/spreader consumption


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Fig 5.3.4.3.1 – command buttons

Fig 5.3.4.3.2 – Drop down combo boxes

5.3.4.2 Referencing

Cell referencing has been used in order to reference values from one cell to another

for purpose of creating the report, calculations and retrieve values in controls.

5.3.4.3 Programming tools

Visual basic controls like command button and combo box list have been used for

the purpose of proving various functional features.

Combo boxes have been used in columns like m/c selection, spreader used, needle,

bobbin and spreader thread descriptions. These boxes help in easy and quick

selection.

Command buttons have been used to provide functionality such as saving, resetting

fields and generating the report.


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6. Testing

The calculator had been tested for its functionality by calculating the consumptions

for previous, running and forthcoming styles in order to confirm and compare the

results with the already calculated values so as to determine its reliability and error

free functioning.

The following previously produced styles have been tested

S.no Style no. Consumption

(calculator)

Consumption

(manual)

%

variation

1. MB2196 99.236 99.349 0.11

2. 8623 174.850 174.85 0

3. SAW 406 92.625 91.325 -1.42

4. Dear hood 184.795 187.265 1.31

5. 8081 179.712 179.712 0

6. EG 56 163.852 163.852 0

7. Asahi 139.328 140.627 0.923

8. FP002 221.033 221.292 0.11

9. Bjornklader 254.475 254.475 0

10. 8054 505.81 505.81 0


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CONCLUSION /DELIVERABLES

The thread consumption calculator is an easy to use and efficient tool to calculate

thread consumptions. The calculator provides a hassle free interface for selection. A

standard format helps in data entry purposes. A human error in data entry reduces to

only the seam lengths, number of seams and the seam type.

The calculator report also provides a systematic report of the consumption

calculated. It also reduces the merchandisers work of compiling the consumption for

order quantities based on the consumption per garment given by IE. The report can

also be helpful in thread booking purposes which can be sent to the thread store by

the merchandiser from where the thread store can proceed with the process of

thread booking.


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LEARNING EXPERIENCE

The internship in many ways provided a platform for new experiences in terms of

industrial exposure as well as personal experiences in terms of tour and travel to

new places and accommodating ourselves into the busy schedules which otherwise

are not experienced in college. Industrial exposure not only drove our curiosity to

know more than our limited textual knowledge but even compelled to get ourselves

involved in the process as a whole. The project undertaken by us exposed us to the

actual working feel and conditions and helped us to tune according to the industry

needs. We first were allowed to observe as much and then our doubts were cleared.

Various communication techniques and industrial practices which are important for

professional behaviour were learnt through our interactions with the industry officials.

Our Interactions with our mentor Mr. Samuel Mupavvarapu were motivational and a

inspirational interaction that fuelled our curiosity for internship with full confidence

and dedication. The managers to whom we were entrusted to meet to learn about

the respective dept.’s were under huge pressures of work but never did it happen

that anyone would deny us any answer to the query which we would ask them at

any point of time, their such generous nature helped us getting the information we

required time to time.

Documents

Apparel internship at Alok Report