Apparel Industry Report

8/13/2019 Apparel Industry Report

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In-plant Training Report

Presentation


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Presented By

o G.Ambikavathi [ 05F004 ]

o S.Nithya [05F036 ]o N.P.Pradeepa [05F038 ]

o Raj Priya.M [05F041 ]

o C.Swasthika [05F055 ]


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IntroductionStallion Garments An ISO 9001:2000 certified company

Chairman and Managing director : K.A.S Thierumurthi and AM.

Karthikkeyan

Manufacturer and exporter of Knit and Woven readymade garments in all

kinds of fabrics

Sister Concerns: M/s. Statesman Fashions, M/s. K.A.T Garments, M/s.

Stallion Fashions

Branches: Production Unit and Dyeing Unit, Karumpalayam

Infrastructure: Entirely in-house and fully integrated facilities
http://www.stallionknits.com/quality.htmlhttp://www.stallionknits.com/quality.html


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Market Distribution

Market Distribution


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Company Plan & Layout

1. Power room

2. Two wheelers

parking

3. Lab room

4. Accessories room

5. Gate

6. Security room

7. Toilet block

8. Compressor room

1 2

3 4 5

7 86

FactoryBuildingF

loorToilet

block

BoilerShed

AC Sheet Roof BuildingFeed Room

AC Sheet Roof BuildingConference Hall

AC Sheet Roof BuildingFinishing Section

AC Sheet Roof BuildingDining Hall & Rest

Room

1 2

3 4 5

7 86

FactoryBuildingF

loorToilet

block

BoilerShed

AC Sheet Roof BuildingFeed Room

AC Sheet Roof BuildingConference Hall

AC Sheet Roof BuildingFinishing Section

AC Sheet Roof BuildingDining Hall & Rest

Room


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Machinery Details Spreading Machine: Automatic

Company : Mehala Assyst Bullmer Compact D600

Cutting Machine: Band Knife Automatic

Company : Gurber

Spreading and cutting done in KVR Nagar , branch in Karumpalayam

Sewing Machines : Juki, Brother, Siruba, Pegasus

Packing Machine: Wedge pack

Needle detector

Fusing machine


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Apparel Production System

Laying/Cutting[KVR Nagar]

Tag forIdentification

Feed Section[Assortment of

bundled pieces

Allotment ofwork to each

floor (sewing)

Checking

Packing

FinalInspection

Bill Of Lading[Cost on

Freight]

Laying/Cutting[KVR Nagar]

Tag forIdentification

Feed Section[Assortment of

bundled pieces

Allotment ofwork to each

floor (sewing)

Checking

Packing

FinalInspection

Bill Of Lading[Cost on

Freight]


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Fabric Department


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Fabric Analysis:Fabric: All Feeder Lycra warp knitting m/c

Fiber Content: 95% Cotton 5% Lycra

Yarn Count: 40s Combed 20 Denier Lycra

Type of fabric produced : Dyed fabric

Width of fabric: 66 Open Width

Fabric Inspection System:

4 point system Fabric quality - number of defect points per 100yd.sq meter of fabric.

length/width of defects point values 40 points first quality


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Recommended Tests for fabric:

Shrinkage

Color Fastness

Wet Rub

Dry Rub

Spirality

Forms issued to cutting department:

Quality check report produced by Quality Inspector

Fabric department dispatches the required amount of fabric to the cutting

department


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Online Inspection System :

Grey stage [dyeing and production] and compacting stage

Fabric Defects:

Holes [ knitting ]Oil Marks [knitting ]

Stains [ dirt or dust forming a temporary defect ]

Color fly [ Mixing of a color thread during spinning ]

Neps [ rare occurrence; entanglement of fibers]

Report : Quality check report - Quality Inspector

Fabric Sourcing and Fabric center : External Sister concern of Stallion


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Pattern making and Sampling Department

N.P.Pradeepa [05F038]


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Software: Investronica Systems, LECTRA Company

Medium size pattern - manually positioned on digitizer

Drafted using optical mouse

Seam allowances given while preparing manual pattern or after pattern

making. Minimum of 1cm

Grading system : Computerized 2-dimensional and 3-dimensional

systems it in 2-D done in 2D effect obtained in 3D

The measurements are entered accurately and the graded pattern is

obtained.

Size Ranges : S, M, L, X, XL [ buyers requirement ]


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Sample Types :

Style Sample - acceptance from the buyer style & shape

Photo sample - appearance

Production Sample - exact one sent for direct production

Design Department :

Export orders - buyer specifies his requirements [style, design, method and

procedure]

Accordingly the company selects the type of machineries and arranges them as

required


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Cutting Department


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CuttingDepartmentLayout

Spreader m/c

Spreader m/c

Spreader m/c

Cutting Table

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Waste

Stock

Numbering

Table

cut Pieces Bundlingarea

Liftroom 1 2 3 4 5 6

FabricRollStock

FabricDepartment

Fabric Manager ERP RoomCAD RoomCutting Manager Fabric AccountantStores

Spreader m/c

Spreader m/c

Spreader m/c

Cutting Table

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Waste

Stock

Numbering

Table

cut Pieces Bundlingarea

Liftroom 1 2 3 4 5 6

FabricRollStock

FabricDepartment

Fabric Manager ERP RoomCAD RoomCutting Manager Fabric AccountantStores


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Cut order planning details :

Plan done prior to cutting

Specification - Order number ,Garment name

Cutting Received - Colors for various sizes and their quantity

I/P & O/P for cutting is mentioned

Pieces ready for packing is also mentioned

Marker Planning done in using the computerized systems as per the

garment patterns

Done in a most economic way

Efficiency : up to 90% can be achieved


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Method Of Cutting:

Automatic cutting machine GURBER cutting machine

Straight knife used

Band knife is being used for edging purposes

Assortment and Bundling :

Single color single size pieces bundled

Ticketed and sent Sewing Department

Transport : trolleys

Production Capacity:

Cutting machines capacity : 5 lakh

Companys Capacity :production of 1 lakh pieces


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Sewing Department

Raj Priya.M [05F041]

Porch


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LiftPorch

SewingSection

Checking

Stock SewingSection

Sewing Section

Checking

Sewing Section

Needle Detector

PackingSection

PackingTables

Iron Tables[8 in number]

StainRemov

er

Fire Exit Fire Exit

Exit Exit

Exit Exit


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Machinery Details

Over lock Machine

3 Thread Over lock - 4 Thread Over lock - 5 Thread Over lock

Flat lock Machine

2 Types of Bed

Circular Bed [ neck , sleeve ]

Flat Bed [ general purpose ]

Single Needle Flat lock

Double Needle Flat lock

2 Thread Over lock - 3 Thread Over lock - 5 Thread Over lock


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Singer Machine

Single Needle

Double Needle

Manufacturers: Germany make

Procedure for Sewing varies acc. to order

Machines equipped with wheels for order arrangements and

rearrangements

Special attachments deployed will be dealt later


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Process Analysis

Style :SLIM FIT T-SHIRT

Garment Segments

Front Panel 1

Back Panel 1

Sleeve 2

Neck Rib [same as fabric]

Cutting Procedure:

The front and back panels are being cut as per the measurements given in

the spec sheet. Sleeves are also being cut.


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Sleeve Hem3 Thread Flat lock

0.00.03.54

Sides Attachment Attachment of Wash Care Label along

4 Thread Over lock0.00.09.88

Bottom Hem Finishing3 Thread Flat Lock

0.00.16.10


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Type of Inspections

Sewing thread inspection

Ply of the yarn is checked usually 3 ply used in the industry 2 ply in rare cases

Operation Inspection

By Quality Assurance department placement of machines and online inspection

Protection EnsureNeedle guard

Safeguard labors from hazardous situations

Glass protecting in front of needle

Pulley Guard

Protective casing around the pulley

Ensures safety - Made of steel covering the belt

Measurement Inspection

Random inspection on any garment is done


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Final Inspection 12 seats in each line 3 floors

Checking table at end checking

Trims are being done

100% inspection of all garments

Material Handling:

Feeding section : Trolley

Manufacturing Unit: Utility Lifts 3 floors serves the purpose only

Sewing Section : Manual movement using Line Tables

Trolley Capacity: 2000 pieces

Service Table:

Sintex bins [bring cut pieces - cutting dept] - Feeding table [boxes as input for sewing]

No hanger system being followed


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Accessories

Sewing ThreadFiber Content - 3 ply polyester 150 Denier

Size - 5000mts cone

Special Finish - White Oil Finish - lubrication

Closures

Button:

Color - Dye to match [DTM] 2 hole

1 Gross = 144 buttons M/C = Rs.10 S/C : Rs.17

Zippers:

Types: Zipper Type ;Spring TypeMethod of Attachment: Visible and Invisible method

Size: As per the requirement of the customer/buyer

Make : China make & Hong Kong supply

M/C : Per inch = 40 paisa S/C = 60 paisa


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Interlining Material:

Specifications : M/C :Per yard = Rs.10 S/C = Rs.12Woven [sticky]Non-woven [non-sticky]

Micro Dot Foam [doesnt appear thick but has sufficient stiffness100% polyester]Labels :

Main LabelSize Label

Wash Care LabelTab Label [pocket side]Flag Label [sides of the garment]

Other Accessories used in Industry:Laces ,Satin ribbons ,Satin elastic, Ready-made piping, Badge [woven],

leather badges, All over embroidery/chest printing, etc.


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Standard Testing For Fabric & Garments


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Machinery

1. Electronic crock-o-meter

Test :colorfastness to crocking

Size of the Test Specimen: 20cm*5cm

Procedure - Rating:

Color staining of wet and dry rub assessed - grey scale ISO 105-A03 standards

or using Spectrophotometer2. Perspirometer

Size of the specimen = 10cm*4cm

Force of the specimen = 5kgs

Size of acrylic plates = 12.5cm*6.5cm

No. of acrylic plates = 163. Washing fastness Tester - Procedure

4. Hot air oven [ Drying ]

Temperature: 105C

Time: 30 minutes


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5. pH TestCompany: ELICO.LTDpH: 10specimen - 10gms cut into tiny pieces boil in 250ml of water cover using watchglass continue boiling for 10 min room temp cool measure with electronic pH

meter directly6. Shrinkage Test

Temperature: 201CRH: 652

7. Spirality TestSpecimen circumference: 11.2cm cut using round plate

Color matching Cabinet:Machine: VerivideMake: Switzerland


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4 light option buttons: [ shops light settings ] Color Matching Software: 3.0 Macbeth.

-D65 [ Europe ]-TL 84 [ US ]-Filament [ US ,Cool white fluorescent]

-UV LightPantone Color Samples:

Shades - textile cotton or textile paper solutionColors Record form Accepted internationally

Testing Centre :Internally - Quality inspector reports check


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Quality Control

S.Nithya [05F036]


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Inspection

Inspection is done at three main stages: Raw Material Inspection In-Process Inspection Final InspectionRaw Material Inspection

Yarn Stage - Before Fabric Inspection - Fabric Inspection Size-Set ApprovalAccessory Inspection

Sewing threadsZippersButtonsInterlining

Online InspectionDuring production - By Quality inspectorCarried out various stages: Spreading ,Cutting ,Sewing, Pressing, Finishing


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Acceptable Quality Level:Statistical Sampling technique

These are 4 main levels followed in Apparel Industry. The levels are;

1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0

Suppose the buyers ask for AQL 2.5, then the industry will follow the

previous AQL 1.5. To be precautious in not exceeding the rejection

number.

Final Inspection:

Final Inspection end of production before shipment

Atleast 80% of the consignment finally packed

Performed according to International Standards

Yarn Test Report


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p

Lab Dip Approval [2.5cm * 2.5cm]

Fabric GSM Approval

Size set approval and Accessories approval

Packing Material approval[Carton, Garment Fold Tissue, Cardboard, photo]

Carton Sticker [printed]

Defective pieces accepted if within AQL level .

Grading given as;ExcellentVery GoodGoodPoor [lot is rejected]


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Cost and Freight[Company responsible for goods gate ]

In-house Stuffing

[Central Excise takes in charge 4 container lorries Rs.400 a lorry

Bill Of Lading

[After a day of dispatch]

Company waits for a high rate of foreign currency then does the in-housestuffing and call for the Central Excise.

That days market value is entered as the final rate in foreign currency.

A small profit to the organization!!!!!!!!!


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Finishing Department


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Sequence till Dispatch after garment construction

Garment Construction

Final Checking

Tagging / Stickering

Poly Bag Packing

Inspection

Checking

Ironing

Carton Box Packing


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Pressing Machinery:Flat Bed

Purpose: Ironing any part of garment

Make: Ram sons and Mehala ,Made in India

Features:

Air sucking in table steam iron pedal for supplying steam Water level 400ml

No. of machines : 8

Iron wt : 400gms [small ]

Folding Specifications:

Tissue Paper PackingInner Board Packing

Hanger Packing [ 20hangers in 1 master bag]

Photo card packing


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Special Machines in various Departments:

Air Flat Lock [auto trimmer dust passage ]

Checking Machine [hole detection tube light ]

Trimming Machine [blade done before checking & after garment make ]

Wedge Pack machine [ handy ]

Needle Detector machine

Bar tack machine

Collar Attachment

Label Fusing Machine

Carton Packing machine [ strapping the carton ]

Easy loading of containers onto vans

Elastic Attachment Machine


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Production Planning & Control

G.Ambikavathi [05F004]


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Line Balancing:- to set the flow through each operation to be as similar as possible

- check from time to time how things are going

- even out the flow again

- each line 2 floaters

Plant Loading:

workers assigned work equally

the quality controller or Line supervisor is in-charge

If the worker is not able to complete his job, then he has to work extra hours. This isnot the incentive since it is his fault

Product Acceptance Sampling:

Pattern Approval

Size Set Sample

Initial Production Check

Buyer Author representatives


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Softwares in Production Planning and Control

Cutting Department: AutoCAD Lectra, Gurber

Sewing Department to Container/Finishing Department:

ERP Sap Software

The details cannot be traced out

One cannot enter anything of ones own wish.


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Administrative Aspects


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Procedure for receiving the order:

price

negotiation

finalization

sample satisfaction

factory inspection

acceptance

order placement

company visit by buyer production

Di t hi g F liti P d


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Dispatching Formalities Procedure

Export Officer

Order sheet, LC requisition, LC Receipt Request from finishing department forEndorsement

Endorsement preparation (invoice, shipping bill filed with AEPC)

Cargo movement msg (ready for shipment) Customs documentation preparation

Filing with customs Preparation of GSP approved by the textile committee

Original document to buyer (air/sea) Bank Attested invoice

Proof of shipment given to AEPC


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Merchandiser

Objectives:

Co-ordinate with buyers

Time and action plan

Maintain quality

Roles played by the merchandiser:Garment costing

Prepares all types of samples for approval

Material requirement planning and sales confirmation

Marketing

Negotiation with buyers


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Few Garment Styles

SEWING AND CUTTING


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SEWING AND CUTTING


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CHECKING AND PACKING


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QUALITY CHECK AND STANDARD TESTING


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Thank You

Documents

Apparel Industry Report