Another look at southeast.PDF

Chapter and section contributorsIlse Sturkenboom, University of Groningen, Netherlands (Archaeology)Nevin Soyukaya, Diyarbak›r Museum (Archaeology)Nejdet ‹nal, Diyarbak›r Museum (Archaeology)Mesut Alp, Mardin Museum (Archaeology) Dr. Birgül Aç›ky›ld›z, Oriental Institute, Oxford University, UK (Yezidi)Kameel Ahmady, University of Kent, UK (Introduction, Newroz,Acknowledgment, Food)Dr. Sarah Keeler, University of Kurdistan Hawler & University of Exeter UK (Project outline/Consultant)Hatice Kamar (History) ‹pek Tafll› (Glossary, Travel Dictionary)Ömer Fidan (Biographies, Newroz) fieyhmus Diken (Diyarbak›r)Mustafa Gazî/Seyda (Food, Travel Dictionary)Sabahattin Gültekin (Travel Dictionary)Jelle Verheij (History of Armenian Churches)fiirin Gencer (Food) Hacer Sunar (Travel Dictionary) Semra Özbey (Travel Dictionary)Mark Cambell (Newroz)

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

EditorRichard Lim

Turkish TranslationMetin Çulhao¤lu

Proofreaders ‹pek Tafll› Nil Ayhanfiirin Gencer fieyhmus DikenCavlan Erengezgin Hatice Kamar Diyarbak›r Kurdish InstituteÖmer Fidan

Project Assistantsfiirin Gencer‹pek Tafll›Ahmet Tan›kYekbun GürgözHacer SunarMetin Özçelik

Fieldwork staffKameel Ahmadyfiirin Gencer‹pek Tafll›

Mapsfieyhmus Kalkan fiirin Gencer

Poems Translations Dr. Kadri Y›ld›r›m (Kurmanji to Turkish)Ömer Fidan (Turkish to Kurmanji and English)Ahmet Tan›k (Turkish to English)Sabahattin Gültekin (Zazaki to Turkish)Semra Özbey (Kurmanji to Turkish)

Cover photoMehmet Masum Süer(Ulu Cami-Diyarbak›r)

Cover designDeniz Akkol

Graphic DesignerSevinç Tany›ld›z

Second Graphic Designer and Controller Murat O¤urlu

Graphic Design Quality Control TeamMurat O¤urluKameel AhmadyAbdülmenaf fiekerfiirin GencerSevinç Tany›ld›z

Another Look at East and Southeast Turkey© Union of Southeast Anatolia Region MunicipalitiesAll Rights Reserved. First Edition 2009

Project Developer and CoordinatorKameel Ahmady

Special thanks to the followings for their contributions in terms of books,information, cross checking materials and providing assistants during thefieldwork:

Ad›yaman: Ad›yaman Municipality, Welat Dilken, ‹brahim Polattafl Family,Besni Municipality, Hüseyin-Kudret Soku Family, family-run KaradutGuesthouse, Hüsniye’s family in Haydaran Village, Gölbafl›, Municipality, KahtaMunicipality. A¤r›: A¤r› Municipality, Ahmet Öztürk, Do¤ubayaz›t Municipality,Mukaddes Kubilay Family, Simer Turizm. Batman: Batman Municipality,Batman Culture and Art Association, Recep Kavufl, Besse Kabak AgosGazetesi, Yavuz Ekinci, Sason Municipality, Gercüfl Municipality, BefliriMunicipality, Hasankeyf Municipality, Kozluk Municipality, Mehmet Emin, EsatÖners family in Kefre Village. Bingöl: Bingöl Municipality, Haqi Botan, GençMunicipality, Solhan Municipality. Bitlis: Bitlis Municipality, Osman-K›ymetGencer and fiükrü Avc›’s family for their hospitality, Berrin Arslan AnadoluAgency, Ziya Avc›, Adilcevaz Municipality, Ahlat Municipality, GeylaniAd›yaman. Diyarbak›r: Diyarbak›r Metropolitan Municipality, Mala Dengbêjtheir staff and all the talented Dengbêjs, Cevahir Sadak Düzgün, Dicle-F›ratCulture Centre, Sur Municipality, Bismil Municipality, Y›lmaz Erkek, ÇermikMunicipality, Ç›nar Municipality, Çüngüs Municipality, Dicle Municipality, E¤ilMunicipality, Ergani Municipality, Hani Municipality, Hazro Municipality,Kocaköy Municipality, Kulp Municipality, A¤açl› Municipality, Lice Municipality,Silvan Municipality, Diyarbak›r Museum, Nevin Soyukaya, Nejdet ‹nal, fierefYumruk, Diyarbak›r Chamber of Commerce, Meryem Özdemir, Diyarbak›rKurdish Institute, Diyarbak›r Chamber of Craftsmen, Diyarbak›r Turizm andTan›tma Derne¤i, Meryem Ana Church,Yusuf Akbulut, Handan Ayd›nalpGümüfl, Mustafa‘n›n Kahvalt› Dünyas›, Hac› Halit Et Lokantas›, Kaday›fç› S›tk›Usta, fiafak Kahvalt› and Do¤u Mutfa¤› Ahmet Usta, fierafettin Usta, HaticeKamar, Hilmi Akyol, Semra Özbey, Çavlan Erengezgin, Mustafa Karabulut,Kadri Avc›, Berfin Ajans, Diyarbak›r Arts Centre, Melike Coflkun, MehmetMasum Süer, Hüsamettin Bahçe, Filiz Parlak, Felat Özsoy, Muzaffer Özdemir,Meral Gunger. Elaz›¤: Elaz›¤ Municipality, ‹brahim Gültekin Family, MetinAktafl, Mustafa Balaban, Gezin Municipality. Hakkâri: Hakkâri Municipality,Nasrullah Müezzino¤lu, Çukurca Municipality, Naif and Mehtap Family,fiemdinli Municipality, Yüksekova Municipality Mardin: Mardin Municipality,Horiepiskopos Gabriel Akyüz K›rklar Church, Mardin Art House, ‹brahim ‹lhan,Kelmo Kili, Kevork Mor Gabriel Monastery Guide, Erdoba Hotel, Büyük MardinHotel, Artuklu Kervansaray Hotel, Nusaybin Municipality, Ercan Alpay,Selmet Güler, Mesut Alp, Alaadin Siyaniç, K›z›ltepe Municipality, DargeçitMunicipality, Derik Municipality, Maz›da¤› Municipality, Ulafl Fut, MidyatMunicipality, Matiat Hotel, Ömerli Municipality, Savur Municipality, YeflilliMunicipality. Mufl: Adem Sönmez, Nimet Y›lmaz, Mufl Municipality, Bulan›kMunicipality, Malazgirt Municipality, Varto Municipality, Murat Ayd›n. Siirt: SiirtMunicipality, Özgür Turhan, Ahmet Arslan, Dara Turhan, Ramazan Oktan,Kurtalan Municipality, Murat Ceylan Family, Nurettin Asma family, EminAkflam, Ayd›nlar Municipality, Baykan Municipality, Eruh Municipality,Gökçeba¤ Municipality, Pervari Municipality, fiirvan Municipality. fi›rnak:fi›rnak Municipality, Ahmet Ertaks family, Abdulrezzak Y›ld›z, BeytüflflebabMunicipality, Dursun Family, Emin Bal, Cizre Municipality, Vedat Y›ld›z, ‹brahimBudak, Abdulcabbar ‹¤di, Abdullah Yafl›n, Güçlükonak Municipality, ‹dilMunicipality, Resul Sadaks Family, Abdurrahman Nas, Silopi Municipality,Muhsin Konur Family. Tunceli: Tunceli Municipality, Gürkan Kahraman, KemalKarabulut, Yusuf Cengiz, Aliflan Ünlü, Mahmut Utan, Kemal Özer. fianl›urfa:fianl›urfa Municipality, Ceylanpinar Municipality, Masum Arslan family,Mehmet Y›lmaz, Hilvan Municipality, Siverek Municipality, Suruç Municipality,Viranflehir Municipality, fiebnem Altan, Murat Sar›o¤lu, Suar Uzun, HarranKültür Evi, Hasan ‹dikurt, Viranflehir Municipality. Van: Van Municipality,Bostaniçi Municipality, Gülcihan fiimflek Family, Van Museum, Yüksel Alaç’sFamily, Jelle Verheij, Ahmet Özer. UK: ‹brahim Do¤ufl, ‹lhan Genç, MürayRamadan. France: Anne Holmes,

AcknowledgementsContentsMapMessage from the Mayor About the projectIntroductionProvincesAd›yaman (Semsûr)fianl›urfa (Ruha)Elazi¤ (Elezîz)Tunceli (Dêrsim)Bingöl (Çewlik)Mufl (Mûfl)Diyarbak›r (Amed)

NewrozBatman (Êlîh)

YezidisMardin (Mêrdîn)Siirt (Sêrt)Bitlis (Bedlîs)fiirnak (fiirnex)Hakkâri (Colemêrg)

Kurdish Weddings and DanceVan (Wan)A¤ri (Agirî)TransportAccommodationFoodGlossaryTravel DictionaryIndexPhoto Credits

CONTENTS

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Born and raised in Diyarbakir, and having worked in theregion for all my life, I have rediscovered the unique beautyof my city and Eastern and Southeastern Anatolia throughthe pages of this modest but path breaking guide. I presentthis guide as an invitation, and wholeheartedly urge you todiscover for yourself the hidden treasures of the region.

Why such a guide? Despite all that it has to offer the curioustraveller, our region has been left out of much of the popu-lar travel literature, or else mischaracterized due to insuffi-cient information. We know how much it has to offer, so indeveloping this guide, we wanted not just to lead the trav-eller around the historical attractions, but share some of ourtraditions, our deep cosmopolitan culture, and our richheritage of language, creed, nature, and culture. We wantedthe reader to learn more about region’s hospitable peopleand unique archaeological sites; about Mesopotamia, whichgains life from the rivers Euphrates and Tigris; and about ourdiverse cultural heritage, which faces the threat of extinctionby the very same waters. We wanted to show you, that is,the other face of our region.

If you are curious about the region, be ready to take anexhilarating journey with this guide. This land, bearing theimprint of so many civilisations, will tell you about its richhistory and heritage, through its solemn fortresses, itsmodest pilgrimage sites, and much more. This ancient landwill speak to those who know how to listen. Be our guest;this land will accommodate you well.

As the Union of Municipalities, we hope this guide will helpcontribute to the economic development of the Eastern andSoutheastern Anatolia by encouraging a sector whosepotential has yet to be fully explored: tourism, an “industrywithout smokestacks”.

My acknowledgements are due to all those who had a handin writing and researching this book, but first and foremostto the gracious people of the region.

Accept our warmest welcome. Meet the new and the time-less, the past in the present. Absorb, learn, enjoy!

Osman BAYDEM‹RPresident, Union of Southeast Anatolia Region Municipalities Mayor, Diyarbak›r Metropolitan Municipality

Another Look at East and Southeast of Turkey6

A Message from the Mayor

The history and contemporary culture of the predominantly Kurdish regionsof the Middle East holds vast riches to explore for the adventurous and sea-soned traveller, but for various reasons, both practical and political, this area,centred in the ancient region known as Mesopotamia, has been obscuredfrom the sights of travellers. This book, primarily intended as a travel guidecovering east and southeast Turkey, hopes to remedy this to some extent.

The book highlights ethnographic details and paints a picture of traditionsand contemporary life which goes beyond what you will find in manyexisting travel guides. As such, it should appeal to those with a special inter-est in the Kurdish regions as well as those seeking an alternative tourismexperience with more direct interaction with local people, cultures and land-scapes. The book takes particular care to cover less visited sites, includingunusual museums and ancient ruins, many undiscovered examples of whichremain to be explored by the curious visitor.

The core of the guide comprises chapters on 15 provinces. Each chapterstarts with a description of the provincial capital and includes some detailsof how to reach the area, before covering other districts within the province.There are also additional sections giving practical advice and some historicalor other background to the subjects covered.

Being a diaspora Kurd, and indeed a travelling restless one, with a specialinterest in the Middle East and the Kurdish heartland, I came across manydifficulties when travelling in the region due to a lack of tourism infrastruc-ture and of local and Kurdish literature written in a critical and comparativemanner. This book, which relates personal and professional observation oflife in the region, provides the opportunity to introduce this amazing landto both foreign and local travellers.

This book came to fruition thanks to the Mayor of Diyarbak›r Mr OsmanBaydemir, whose passion for tourism development in this region has drivenhis constant support for this project. Also thanks to GABB General ManagerMr Abdülmenaf fieker for his practical assistance throughout, the GABBmember municipalities who helped the project staff with accommodation,food and transportation, and the different departments of Diyarbak›rMetropolitan Municipality. Special thanks go to the efforts of a very dedicat-ed team of experts and editorial staff, in particular to Richard Lim for his pro-fessional support and commitment, plus the translators, proofreaders andskilled photographers, graphic designers and especially the project assistants;in particular fiirin Gencer and ‹pek Tafll› whose contributions went wellbeyond their duties. The inspirations in shaping the project during prelimi-nary research at the British Library came from Dr. Sarah Keeler, to whomI am truly grateful.

The team members’ own experience of living in this region, I believe, helpedus reflect the realities here as perceived by ordinary people, and at the verysame time, the book incorporates the local writers, museums, historians,NGOs, etc. Although not perfect, this work, it can proudly be said, is the firstof its kind that has been done on such a scale, and my wish is that this willbe the backbone of similar future projects to promote tourism in this ignoredregion.

Kameel Ahmady

Project Developer and Coordinator

7

About the project

NOTE: Place names are predominantly given in Turkish in the text, though most places have older namesin Kurdish or other languages, which are given in parentheses in headings or in the text itself at the firstmention of the place. Population statistics in the text 2007 figures.

The eastand thesoutheast

For some timeSoutheast Turkeyhas been off themainstream touristtrail, an undeservedconsequence of theunrest here in the1990s. But don’t beput off: today theregion is for the most part calm andeasy to visit, and tourists who make ithere are rewarded with a glimpse of aregion quite removed from the com-mercialism of the resorts ofwestern Turkey. In thesoutheast, you canexplore an environ-ment with a more tra-ditional feel, a largelyKurdish flavour andhistorical riches asextensive and fasci-nating as anywhereelse in the country.

On the fringes of the FertileCrescent, the region was thescene of some of the earliest settle-ments in human history, a factreflected in the many mounds andtumuli scattered around. Of moregeneral interest are the ruinedfortresses and rock tombs dottedaround the countryside, some datingback to as early as the UrartianKingdom, which rose to prominence inthe 9th century BC. Since then the

region has been con-tested by a seeminglynever-ending parade ofstates, kingdoms andcivilisations, includingthe Medes,Achaemenids (defeatedby Alexander the Great,who likewise left his

mark on the region) and Parthians inpre-Christian times. With the rise ofByzantium, the region became hometo some of the earliest Christian com-

munities, some of whose monas-teries and churches still

stand today. It alsobecame the battle-

ground between theByzantines and firstthe PersianSassanids and, later,

the Islamic dynasties,including the

Umayyads, Hamdanidsand in 10th and 11thcenturies the Kurdish dynasty

of Mervanids began to dominate largepart of the region.

In the 11th century the Seljuk Turksadvanced west into the region andstruck a decisive blow against theByzantines at the Battle of Malazgirt in1071. Seljuk dominance soonweakened, however, and the regioncame under the control of local dynas-ties such as the Artukids. Later on the

Alexander the Great (1)


region was conquered by KurdishRuler Selahaddin Eyyubi (see p: 259)who also conquered Jerusalem in1187. Fragmentation continued whenthe Mongols arrived in the second halfof the 13th century and the regionbecame divided into small beyliksunder local beys. In the late 14th and15th centuries, the region came underthe control of the Akkoyunlu (WhiteSheep Turcoman) and Karakoyunlu(Black Sheep Turcoman) tribes, butmeanwhile the Ottomans had been onthe rise in the west. Having capturedConstantinople in 1453, the Ottomanseventually drove east and south intothe region in the early sixteenthcentury. Needless to say, each of theseMuslim dynasties and entities left itsown interesting architectural legacy.

With the messy collapse of theOttoman Empire at the end of World

War I and the unfortunate event of theArmenians, the Treaty of Sèvresbetween the allies and the Turks wasintended to give at least some Kurds asay in their political future. The treatywas never implemented, however, andwas superseded by the Treaty ofLausanne which gave rise to themodern Turkish state with a nationalslogan of ‘’One Language. One Nation.One flag’’. Ever since, there have beentensions between the aspirations ofTurkey and those of its Kurdish popu-lation, with Kurds asking for greatercultural and political rights and recog-nition from the central governmentin Ankara.

While the southeast of Turkey ismainly Kurdish, the ethnic distinctionsare usually lost on tourists, for whomeveryonetends to look the same(though if you can speak Turkish, youmight find that the distinctive accent inthe southeast gives away the fact thatmost people are not native speakers).You can sometimes spot Kurds by theway some men wear chequered head-scarves or other traditional garb suchas the fial û flapik outfit of loosetrousers and jacket or in placeswearing Kurdish flalvar, while somewomen wear mainly white headscarvesand sometimes colourful dressescalled kiras-fîstan. In fact the

Selahaddin Eyyubi (2)

Signing of the Treaty of Sèvres (3)

Introduction 11

southeast is alsohome to other minori-ties, notably theancient SyrianOrthodox communityin Mardin and the sur-rounding area, which alsohas a small Arabic-speakingcommunity close to the Syrian bor-der. The Syrian Orthodox aside, therest of the population is predominantlySunni Muslim, and indeed most Kurdsare Sunnis adhering to the Shafi`iSchool of Islamic jurisprudence alsosome belongs to Hanafi school ofSunni Islam. There are also groupswho belong to Sufi religious orders(tariqa) such as the Naqshbendis , andthere are also Alevis – who sharesome beliefs with the Shia but areessentially separate. Finally you mayalso come across groups of KurdishYezidis, a sect influenced by Sufismand Zoroastrianism.

All this ethnic and religious diversitymakes for a rich cultural experiencefor visitors. Here you have the chanceto listen to Kurdish dengbêj singing, orattend to Kurdish wedding, alsocolourful events such as Newroz andtraditional religious or agriculturalfestivals in the countryside, or take in

a huge range of tradi-tionally styledarchitecture, fromOttoman mosques to

mansions and monas-teries decorated with

incredible stonework inand around Mardin and

Diyarbak›r. You can also enjoy avaried and delightful range of food fea-turing many Kurdish and Arab dishesseldom seen in western Turkey.

The terrain of southeast Turkey is asdiverse and interesting as its peoples.Here you will find seeminglynever-ending chains of mountains,snowbound all winter; upland plateausbrimming with wildflowers in spring,and arid steppe that can be scrubby

Kurdish Jewish weddingin Israel (4)

Newroz (5)

Kurdish dengbêj (6)

and leafless much of the year. Theregion is also home to Turkey’s largestinland body of water, the magnificentblue expanse that is Lake Van, encircledby formidable peaks. It is also home totwo of the world’s great rivers, theTigris and the Euphrates.

So far from the major urban centres ofwestern Turkey, the region remainssomething of a rural backwater, a situa-tion that rankles with locals as much asany issues to do with cultural and politi-cal expression. The local economy isdominated by agriculture, notably thecultivation of cereals, pulses and grapes;and by livestock farming, often practisedin transhumance fashion. The areaunder cultivation is being extendedthrough a massive programme of dam-

Mesopotamia

Known as the cradle of civilisation,Mesopotamia gave us writingalong with the first literary epicand even beer.

As used in this book, the wordMesopotamia refers to the land“between two rivers” – as it trans-lates from the ancient Greek. Therivers in question are the Tigris andEuphrates, which begin in southeastAnatolia and flow a long waythrough Syria and Iraq, eventuallymeeting in the Shatt Al-ArabWaterway in southern Iraq. Theupper part of Mesopotamia ismountainous, with many tributariesnourishing the rivers; lowerMesopotamia is marshy and flat.

With its fertile plains, Mesopotamiais of course also the cradle of civili-sation, and was one of the areaswhere settled agriculture was firstpractised with the help of irrigation.The region was the stompingground of – and a zone of conflictfor – the ancient Akkadians,Assyrians, Hittites, Medes,Babylonians, Persians and so on.Today, for many peopleMesopotamia lives on mainly as ahistorical construct, the area itselfbeing divided among the modernstates of Turkey, Syria and Iraq.


Mesapotemia (7)

Mesopotamia, Map (8)

Hishepherd and Livestock (9)

building, which is not without contro-versy as it has led to historical townsbeing submerged under new lakes andconcerns being expressed byTurkey’s neighbours aboutthe security of water flow inthe Tigris and Euphrates.There is also light industry insome areas, sometimesbased on local mineralresources, which include oilreserves in the Batman area.

As for deciding when to visit,bear in mind that southeastTurkey is cut off by theAnatolian plateau from the moderatinginfluence of the Mediterranean, and sofeatures a continental climate.Summers can be searingly hot while

winters are often bitterly cold, aggra-vated by the elevated terrain; as anexample, temperatures in Diyarbak›r

average 31°C at the heightof summer and 1.8°C in thedepths of winter – thoughpeak temperatures oftenexceed 40°C in summer andminimum tem peraturescan plunge some way belowfreezing in winter. Springand autumn are thus idealtimes to travel to southeastTurkey, though you shouldnot be put off visiting at

other times of year. At least rain is notthat likely to interfere with your travelsas precipitation is low, at around500mm a year.

Introduction 13

Munzur Mountain (10)

Weather (11)


AttractionsFor tourists, the most obvious focalpoints in southeast Turkey are themain cities, which offer attractions intheir own right and opportunities forexploring their hinterland. Most promi-nent and most populous of these isDiyarbak›r, right at the heart of theregion and something of a standard-bearer for Kurdish aspirations, thoughat the same time a relaxed and wel-coming place. Here you can explorethe city’s extensive city walls, built ofblack basalt, are the longest ofmedieval fortifications; encircling thecity they are more than 5.5 km long,said to be with the Great Wall of Chinabeing the only longer, also take in asmattering of old mosques andchurches. Just nearby is Mardin, withits incredibly beautiful architecture,

whose rich decorations have been cre-ated by generations of expert stone-cutters, close to Mardin is the town ofMidyat, itself home to much splendidstone architecture as well as being thegateway to the Syrian Orthodoxmonasteries of the Tur Abdin Plateau.In the west of the region is Urfa (offi-cially fianl›urfa), an ancient city with anatmospheric mosque complex associ-

Diyarbak›r City Walls (12)

Mor Mihayel Monastery (13)

Introduction 15

ated with the Prophet Abraham; themosque’s pools, filled with carp, aresaid to have miraculously appeared inplace of a pyre when Abraham wasordered to be flung into a pit of flamesfrom the citadel above. At the otherend of southeast Turkey, close to theborder with Iran, is the surprisinglysophisticated city of Van, ideal for see-ing nearby Lake Van and part of a

region that was once an Armenianheartland, boasting several survivingArmenian churches and monasteries,including the superb Akdamar Churchon a lonely island in the lake. The cityalso boasts one of the most extensivecitadels in the region, Van Kalesi.From Van, you can not only visitAkdamar Church but also the Kurdishcitadel of Hoflap Kalesi.

Ad›yaman is a potential base for visit-ing the spectacular Mount Nemrut,littered with bizarre stone heads leftbehind by the ancient CommageneKingdom. As for Diyarbak›r, it is just ashort hop from the modern city ofBatman, which is close to the magicalold town of Hasankeyf, containingattractive old mosques and an exten-sive citadel overlooking the Tigris;sadly the town is due to be immersedwhen a dam is built in the vicinity inAkdamar Church (14)

the face of vehement local and inter-national opposition, and there is notmuch time left in which to view itstreasures. Batman is also not far fromthe Malabadi Bridge, a historical stoneconstruction that is one of the mostsizeable and well known of its kind.

The region also has opportunities forsports and outdoor activities. You cantrek in the Munzur Valley NationalPark in Tunceli province and at MountSüphan, ski at Çiftkaya and MountHazarbaba, and undertake a propermountaineering expedition if you fancytackling Mount Ararat – amongst othersites. For something much morerelaxing, consider taking the waters atany of the numerous hot springs, forexample at Tafll›dere (Holê) villagenear Bekirhan in Batman province andDiyadin in A¤r›.


Malabadi Bridge (15) Munzur River (16)

Munzur Valley (17)

Top highlights

01Mount Nemrut and CendereBridge (Ad›yaman/Kahta) A UNESCO World HeritageSite, Mount Nemrut is anopen-air museum notablefor its vast statues of theCommagene Kingdom,dating from the 1st centuryBC. Nearby is the elegantRoman Cendere Bridge.

Introduction 17

20Here in geographical order of provinces but no particularorders of merit are twenty things to make a special effort

to see in east and southeast of Turkey:

Diyarbak›r (18)

(19)


05Munzur Valley in Tunceli

The steep, snow-capped peaksleave a lasting impression, as do

the province’s other unspoiltnatural attractions, also many

historical sites. The Munzur ValleyNational Park, one of the biggest

national parks in the country at420 square kilometres in size,

features some of the wildest andbeautiful nature of the entire

southeast, offers excellentopportunities for trekking

and rafting.

02fianl›urfa

Regarded by many as thebirthplace of Abraham, sacred to

Muslims, Christians, and Jews,Urfa features many sites

associated with the Prophet aswell as some atmospheric

bazaars, and is also a place toattend s›ra geceleri, convivial

evenings of spicy local food andtraditional folk music.

04Harran (fianl›urfa) Close to the Syrian border, theplains of Harran are best knownfor their unusual beehive houses – so called because oftheir conical roofs.

03Göbekli Tepe (fianl›urfa)

These substantial remains comprise one of theworld’s oldest known shrine complexes.

(20)

(21) (22)

(23)

(24)

Introduction 19

06Floating Island(Bingöl/Solhan) This “island” is really threeislets which are clumps ofearth held together by treeroots, as a result of whichthey can drift about on thesurface of the surroundinglake – a most unusualnatural phenomenon.

08Hasankeyf (Batman)

Magical town and the starof this region, threatened

with inundation by the lakeof the proposed Il›su Dam,

Hasankeyf bristles withIslamic monuments and old

cave dwellings, and alsoboasts an extensive citadel

with excellent views overthe Tigris Valley.

07Ayd›nlar (Siirt) Has number of attractive old houses and Abbaras,and also boasts the tombs of ‹brahim Hakk›, therenowned religious scholar and astronomer, andthat of his master ‹smail Fakirullah. ‹brahimHakk›’s remarkable optical phenomenon thatonce a year beam the first rays of the rising sunof March 21(Newroz) across the distance onto amirror, which would illuminate the length of thetomb of ‹smail Fakirullah. Also nearby is themausoleum of Veysel Karani in Ziyaret, which isvisited by thousands of pilgrims each year.

(25)

(26)

(27)


09Diyarbak›r The world’s most populous Kurdish city makes a great gateway to the region andoffers a mixture of sights, including extensive city walls, ancient mosques andchurches, some bustling bazaars, gardens by the Tigris and off course the joyfulKurdish Newroz Festival.

10The Hilar Caves(Diyarbak›r/Ergani) The caves at Hilarnear town of Erganifeature a wholeseries of interesting,sometimesspectacular rocktombs.

11Malabadi Bridge

(Diyarbak›r/Silvan) One of the best-known

monuments in this part,the Malabadi Bridge isconsidered the longest

historical bridge ofAnatolia.

(28)

(29)

(30)

Introduction 21

12MardinCrowning a hilltop with vistas over the Mesopotamian plains, Mardin’s old city ispacked with houses decorated with immaculate carved stonework, and alsocontains several important mosques and churches.

13Deyrul Zafaran and Mor

Gabriel Monasteries(Mardin)

Close to Mardin, both thesesites not only feature

impressive stonework butmore importantly help to

preserve the religioustraditions of the much

depleted Syrian Christiancommunity.

14The Red Madrasah(fi›rnak/Cizre) Built of red brick; this was adistinguished centre of learningin its time and features a numberof classrooms with some nicelydecorated ceilings. Close by isthe tomb of the 17th-centuryKurdish poet Melayê Cizirî, with adome which, unusually, bulgesdownwards.

(31)

(32)

(33)


16Akdamar Island (Van/Gevafl)

This lonely island in the southern part ofLake Van is the site of the beautiful

Akdamar Church, which once served thenow-vanished Armenian community.

17Nemrut Crater Lake (Bitlis/Tatvan) Not to be confused with the Commagene site of Mount Nemrut, the NemrutCrater Lake is an ideal place to camp, go on boat rides and enjoy beautiful views.

15Zap Valley (Hakkâri) Known for its natural beauty andalso several Nestorian churches,typically perched dramatically abovevalleys. Ba¤lar (Nehrî) village infiemdinli, a village redolent ofassociations with Kurdish historywhere the Nehri Clan belonging tothe Neqshbendi order built elegantKayme Palace, and set up amadrasah, and a tekke (dervishlodge) that would be a spiritualbeacon for the Kurds.(34)

(35)

(36)

Introduction 23

19‹shak Pafla Palace (A¤r›/Do¤ubayaz›t) A classic example of Ottoman architecture, this palace complex deserves to beadmired in the same way as ‹stanbul’s Topkap› Palace.

20Mount Ararat (A¤r›) Believed by some to

be the resting place ofNoah’s Ark, this is

Turkey’s highest peakat 5165m and makes a

challenging climb.

18Ahlat (Bitlis) Besides an excellentarchaeological museum,Ahlat boasts number ofamazing tombstones ofhistorical rulers.

(37)

(38)

(39)

Nemrut Mountain (1)

According to legend, the nameAd›yaman derives from the storyof a father who had seven sons.They were annoyed by the factthat their father was a pagan, andone day, when he was not athome, they destroyed all the idolshe worshipped. Enraged todiscover this, he killed all his sonsone by one. People were shockedby this and named the city YediYaman (“seven heroes”) to com-memorate them. According toanother tale, the name is acorruption of Vadi-i-Leman(“beautiful valley”), which was thename applied to a valley near the citywhere plenty of fruit trees grew.

With its forests providing opportunitiesfor hunting and sources of water,

Ad›yaman has been home to manycommunities throughout history. Theprovince of Ad›yaman has a major

historical claim to fame in thatit was the seat of the

Commagene Kingdom,created in 80 BC byMithridates. He broughtPersians, Macedonians

and other communitiestogether to form a

powerful state, whose


Provincial population

582.762 (2007)

Average altitude

669mArea7572 square kilometres

DistrictsAd›yaman, Besni, Çelikhan, Gerger,

Gölbafl›, Kahta, Samsat, Sincik, Tut

EconomyAgriculture (particularly tobacco,

pistachios and pulses), Oil production,

TourismNeighbouring provinces

Kahramanmarafl (west), Malatya

(north), Diyarbak›r (east), fianl›urfa

(southeast), Gaziantep (southwest)

At aglance

Old photo of Ad›yaman locals (2)

Archeological findings from the region (3)

name “Commagene” meant somethinglike “community of races” in Greek, inline with the fact that its rulers were ofmixed Greek and Persian descent. Theglories of the Kingdom are glimpsedby the thousands of tourists who comeeach year to see the remnants ofCommagene statues on MountNemrut. After Romans took the area, itwas ruled by, amongst others, theByzantines, Umayyads, Abbasids,Hamdanids, Seljuks, Artukids,Mongols, Mamlukes and Ottomans.

Ad›yaman province enjoys prioritystatus for development and is expectedto attract new investment in the nearfuture, which has somewhat slowedemigration to more prosperous partsof the country. As is true of other partsof southeastern Turkey,Ad›yaman remains animportant centre for agri-culture, which employsa large proportion of thepopulation; pistachiosand pulses are amongthe important crops, as istobacco, though its produc-tion has declined since thestate imposed quotas. Carpet-makingis a prominent small-scale industry inthe towns of Besni and Tut. Theprovince is also a major oil-producingarea within Turkey and the state oilcompany TPAO is undertaking surveysto discover new petroleum resources,

which has attracted the interest ofinternational companies.

Tourism is also of some importancegiven the presence of Mount Nemrut,one of the top attractions in Turkey,with excursions marketed to touristsas far away as ‹stanbul. The sight ofthe fallen heads of numerous statuesmakes a lasting impression, as doesthe sunrise here, which people journeythrough the night just to see. It’spossible to combine a visit to themountain with visits to otherCommagene sites in the vicinity, theKarakufl Tumulus, a burial moundwhere you can view a famous eagle-topped column and such as Arsameia,which was their summer capital. Closeto Ad›yaman city, the ruins of the cave

necropolis of Perre are worthy ofattention. Tut and Besni,

though small towns, offergood opportunities to shopfor carpets, and otherlocal handicrafts.

Ad›yaman 27

Life in Ad›yaman (4)

Ad›yaman almond (5)

Quality Ad›yaman tobbaco (6)


Ad›yaman CityA fast-growing, modern citywith a population of 191,627,Ad›yaman is the capital ofa province which was onlycreated in 1954; prior to thatit had been part of Malatya.The birth of the new provincewas a spur to the develop-ment of what had been a ruralarea; subsequentlystate-owned companiesinvested in the new cement,textile and dairy productionfacilities. The GAP project (seep: 67) and tax breaks allowedthe private sector to take offtoo, mainly in the textile andlivestock sectors.

Human settlement heredates all the way back to4000 BC. The populationtoday is a mixture ofKurds and Turks, andthis is a province(along with Marafland Malatya) wherethe accent withwhich Kurmanji

Kurdish is spoken is regarded asparticularly attractive. The city

also has a large Alevi populationand thus a number of cemevi,

Alevi community establish-ments where they pray onThursdays. The city also hasSyrian Orthodox population,and one of its priests was

promoted to MetropolitanBishop in 2006. Interestingly,the city is also one of the fewplaces in this part of the countrywhere you will come across alarge number of bicycles andscooters in the streets, whichare tree-lined and pleasant towalk through.

Ad›yaman is a reasonablebase for visits to Mount

Nemrut (see p:44) andnearby Commagenesites, and many hotelsoffer excursions there.The city also has asmattering of attrac-tions, notably thecave tombs of thePerre Necropolis.

Ad›yaman watch tower (7)

Mor Petrus/Pavlos church (8)

Ad›yaman 29

For famous people of Ad›yamanplease see (Kahta p: 37 andSamsat p: 53)

H›sn-i Mansur Kalesi

Dating back to the eighthcentury, the fortress onthe mound in thecentre of Ad›yaman wasoriginally built by theUmayyad ruler MansurBin Cavene as a defenceagainst the Byzantines.Nowadays it is in ruinsand has been convertedto a park. A local talehas it that the city wasonce named H›sn-iMansur because ofthis castle.

Ulu Cami

This is the biggestmosque in Ad›yaman centre, with onelarge and four small domes, beautifulUlu Cami (Great Mosque) was built atthe time of Dülkadiro¤ullar›, beyliks.The mosque was demolished andrebuilt in 1873 and restorated byMehmed Fevzi Efendi in 1902. This

rectangular planned building is madeup of truncated stones, its minaret islocated to the northeast side of themosque, and there are two dates on

the inscription of the minaret as1798 and 1854. It is supposed

that the dates are about therestoration of the mosque andbuilding date of the minaret.

Çarfl› Camii

If you pass by the bazaar,you can visit the Çarfl›

Camii (BazaarMosque).

According to therecords it hasbeen built in1557 andrestorated byHac› Abdülgani

some forty yearslater, built with

white stones and covered with awooden dome. It has lost most of itsoriginal appeal due to unsympatheticrenovations, most recently in 1957.Some even believe that the 1902restoration was in fact a completerebuilding of the mosque.

A local girl in traditional clothes (9)

Ad›yaman Ulu Camii (10)

Coppersmiths(11)


Eski Saray (‹brahim Bey) Camii

The city’s most elegant mosque is theEski Saray Camii, west of the centre inthe district of Eski Saray. Built ofstone, with a wooden floor and ceiling,according to the original inscriptionlocated above the portal to the east, itwas constructed in the seventeenthcentury by ‹brahim Pafla, therefore it isalso called ‹brahim Pafla Mosqueamong the locals and has aparticularly attractive and highlydecorated mihrab.

Mor Petrus/Pavlos Church

The tiny Armenian and Syrian Orthodoxcommunities of Ad›yaman still use thischurch, in the central Mara district.The church was built in late 18thcentury (though the very first churchhere was built in the 11th century) andbear an inscription stating that it wasrenovated in 1905. There are twotombs of metropolitan bishops here,one inside the building itself while theother is at the entrance. The churchalso has a religious school whichhouses some novice nuns andstudents.

Kap Camii

The mosque is located in Kap quarterof the city. According to the inscrip-tions on its north and southern doors,it has been built in 1768 and restoratedin 1923 by Hac› Mehmet Ali. Thebuilding has been made up oftruncated stones and covered with awooden dome. The minaret located tothe north side of the building has asquare base and cylindrical body. Theminaret was demolished by a lightningand rebuilt in 1934.

Eski Saray (‹brahim Bey) Camii (12)

Service at Mor Petrus/Pavlos church (13)

Ad›yaman 31

Traditional Ad›yamanHouses

Most of these traditionalhouses are double storeyand made up of limestonethat is special and commonin the region. The rectangularplanned houses are generally coveredwith flat earth roofs. There is akitchen and storage room in thebasement. The second floor consistsof rooms used for winter andsummer. The wood work and stonework is common in these houses,ceilings are decorated with differentkind of plant and geometric motifs.Many of these houses are from the19th century. Among some of the wellknown houses are, Kadir Aslan Houseand Mustafa Kuran House in the cen-tre of the city.

Ad›yaman Museum

The museum, in Atatürk Cad, exhibitsartefacts found in and around theregion from the Paleolithic Agethrough the Neolithic, Copper,Bronze and Iron ages, as well asHellenistic, Roman, Byzantine,Seljuk and Ottoman items. Inaddition, late Hittite stone steles,

plus coins andmosaics from theCommagene Kingdom

are on display.Ethnographic items are

on show in a separate hall.The museum (0416 216 29

29) is open from 8.30am until noonand from 1pm to 5.30pm (not openMondays).

Ad›yaman houses(14)

Historical artifacts(15)

Historical artifacts (16)


Accommodation

Places to eat

Municipality: 0416 216 1020 Tourist information: 0416 216 12 59

Getting there

There are a fair number of midrange hotels on Atatürk Bulvar›, some with views.Bozdo¤an (0416 216 3999, www.otelbozdogan.com) was one of the city’s firsthotels and has decent rooms, many overlooking the swimming pool. Isias (0416214 8800, www.grandisias.com) is more recent and a bit classier, with a sauna,hamam and a nice terrace restaurant, though no pool. Another possibility is theAntiochos (0416 225 0282), which does have a pool.

The budget hotels are more likely to be found in the centre. Near the otogar isthe Hotel Serdaro¤lu on Turgut Reis Cad (0416 216 4841), while you can also trythe Hotel Yoluç, Har›kç› Cad (0416 213 5226).

Ad›yaman as an important provincial centre has good transport connections tothe rest of the country. The airport has direct flights to Ankara and Istanbul. Cityof Ad›yan is also reachable by air. There is daily car and passenger ferry fromKahta to the Siverek district of Urfa province, which allows you to continue eastfrom here.

Ad›yaman cuisine features the usual kebabs of the southeast and fresh fish fromthe lakes. The Papatya Kebab in front of the Zeus Hotel on Mustafa Kemal Cad(0416 726 2989) serves delicious good examples of both and bakes its own bread;it’s open from 11am till around 11pm.

If you stay in the centre, try one of the restaurants in the Hac› Ömer quarter, likethe Süreyya on 85 Sokak (0416 216 6902). With your own car, you can head toBaraj Yolu, where a few restaurants such as Akropolitan (0416 725 5132),situated on top of a hill overlooking the Atatürk Dam, serve local grilled fish andmeat and alcohol.

Ferry boat to Kahta (17)

Ad›yaman 33

Perre Ancient City (Pirin)

If you are in Ad›yaman, make sure tovisit the ruins of Perre 5km away,accessible by dolmufl from thecentre (Örenli–Pirin minibuses). Thesite (no formal hours; free) was oneof the five biggest Commagenesettlements and was sited so as tooffer views of Nemrut Da¤›. Itsnecropolis has 25 sepulchres whichare located in a network of some 200caves – hence the local name, PirinMa¤aralar› (Pirin caves) – and linkedby a network of so-called galleries.Excavations have revealed a numberof bracelets, necklaces and other

jewellery, now exhibited inAd›yaman’s museum.

Despite the site now being declareda protected area, pieces of theremains are still finding their wayinto village homes, so as to support afalling wall or whatever; don’t besurprised if you are invited for tea bya local and discover old columns inthe stable of your host.

Within walking distance of the cavesis an 1800-year-old spring-fedRoman fountain, often crowded withwomen and young girls of the village,who use it as a place to wash clothesand from which to fetch drinkingwater for the home. There used to bea baths complex here reached by aRoman fountain (20)

Perre ancient city (18)

Per

re m

osai

cs(1

9)


narrow passageway, and locals saythat an underground reservoirsurvives.

Abuzer Gaffari Türbesi

This tomb is located 5 km fromAd›yaman in Ziyaret (Elifê) village.The date of 1136 is written on aninscription near the tomb’s maindoor. There is also a small mosquelinked to the tomb used for prayingby the visitors. It’s said that there isanother tomb belonging to the sameperson in the village of Rebze nearDamascus.

Haydaran Cave Tombs

Another Commagene-era site can beseen in the upper rocky part of thevillage of Taflgedik (Haydaran), 12kmfrom Ad›yaman. Besides ancienttombs, you can see an interestingrelief depicting King Antiochusshaking hands with the God of theSun, Hellias.

Alevi Tombs

There are number of Alevi tombs andpilgrimage sites in Ad›yaman.

Around 5km east of Ad›yaman is theMahmut-I Ensari Tomb, atop AliMount. It was built on the order ofSultan Murat IV. Finally, the fieyhAbdurrahman Erzicani tomb is a lateOttoman structure in the village of‹ndere (Zey), 7km north of Ad›yaman.

Palanl› Caves

Cave art depicting deer and chamoisdating back to 40,000 BC can be seennear the village of Palanl›, 10km

Haydaran rock tombs (21)

Palanl› caves (22)

Ad›yaman 35

north of Ad›yaman. They are locatedinside a green valley.

Ç›plak Baba (Dede) Ziyareti

Located 21km from the city centre onthe way to Kahta is this tomb,reached by taking a narrow road justbehind the Ad›yaman air-port. Thetomb belongs to Mehmet Öryan,locally known as Ç›plak Baba(“Naked Baba”). He was a servant inthe house of a rich lord. While hislord was in Mecca his wife cookedher husband’s favourite food andsaid, “I wish my husband was here,he liked this meal so much.” Ç›plakDede said he could take the food tohis lord. The woman gave him someof the food, thinking that Ç›plak Babawas hungry but was ashamed to askfor the food. Ç›plak Baba returned ashort while later, saying he had giventhe food to his lord, and when hislord returned from Mecca he toldpeople that Ç›plak Baba haddelivered the food to him. This madepeople believe that Ç›plak Baba mustbe a holy man to have such powersin order to fly to Mecca.

Happy locals from Haydaran Village (23)

Ç›plak Baba (Dede) tomb (24)

Kahta (Kolik)


Antiochos(25)

The small town of Kahta (population of59,570) 40km east of Ad›yaman, isflanked by the Atatürk Dam lake to theeast and southeast, although you can’tactually see it from the centre. Kahtahas recently experienced a boom withthe inception of the oil refinery; don’t besurprised to see some wells in thevicinity. Most tourists who arrive here,is because of the town’s location closeto the foot of Mount Nemrut (see p:44).

The Kahta International CommageneFestival takes place here in summer(dates and more information on 0416725 51 00) and features folkloricperformances of music and dance aswell as the usual seminars, plus atrip to the historic sites within theregion. On the last day people ascendMount Nemrut to watch the sunsetand a traditional Kurdish danceperformance.

Zeus Oteli on Mustafa Kemal Bulvar› (0416 7255694) has modern luxury rooms, international TVchannels and also a large swimming pool. On thesame street is the Nemrut Tour Hotel (0416 7256881) with air-conditioned en-suite rooms, arestaurant and a pool. Less expensive is the HotelKommagene on Yeni Diyarbak›r Yolu (0416 7259726, [email protected]), which is suitedto backpackers. You can also try Zeus Camping onMustafa Kemal Cad (0416 725 5695), though thereare plans to transform it into a hotel. Most placesto stay offer Nemrut excursions (see p:50).

Yayla Çay Bahçesi veIzgara is a decent restau-rant on Mustafa KemalCad, while Nefletin Yeri,(0416 725 76 75) 5kmeast of the town on theNemrut road and acces-sible with your own car,is a good fish restaurantwith views over the lake.

Accommodation Places to eat

Ad›yaman/Kahta 37

Kahta international Commagene festival(26)

Kahta is the birthplace ofa number of well-knownintellectuals andperformers. The linguistand poet, Osman Sebrî,of the well-knownMirdêsan Clan, was bornhere in 1905. He wasimprisoned (and some ofhis relatives were execut-ed) in the wake of the failedKurdish rebellion led by Sheikh Saidin 1925 (see p: 139), though heescaped to Syria four years later,where he eventually diedat the age of 88. Hiscareer in literature beganwith a poem whichappeared in 1932 inHawar, a magazine pub-lished by his mentor MirCeladet Ali Bedirxan (seep: 474). Making an

impact in quite a differ-ent field is the gynaecol-ogist ‹smet Sami Turanl›,born in Kahta in 1930.A graduate of theUniversity of Istanbul, hehas worked in variousEuropean medical cen-tres and has been wonan award in Germany,

where he lives part of the time, forhis research contributions to hisfield. Much beloved in Kahta is thesinger Kahtal› M›ç› (real name

Mustafa Arslan), bornhere in 1953. Besidesgiving concerts, he hasmade TV appearancesnationally and interna-tionally and appeared inthe recent award-win-ning Turkish movieBeynelmilel.

Some prominent people from Ad›yaman

Osman Sebrî(27)

Kahtal› M›ç›(28)


Eagle head, Karakufl tumulus (29)

Karakufl Tumulus

Karakufl, literally “blackbird”, is 9kmnorth of Kahta, just after you passErikdere (Sako) village. The site datesback to the first century BC, andartefacts found during excavationshave borne inscriptions proclaimingloyalty to the Romans.

The mound was created by KingMithridates I for the graves of hismother, Isias, his sister Antiochis andhis niece Aka. Excavations haverevealed that the graves were lootedlong ago. One of the columns aroundthe site bears the headless statue ofan eagle – the “blackbird” of the site’sname. A lion and a bull on the easterncolumn shows King Mithridates II(grandson of Mithridates I) shakinghands with his sister Laodice. It onlytakes a few minutes to climb themound for views of the columns andCendere Bridge to the north.

Karakufl tumulus (30)

Ad›yaman/Kahta 39

Cendere Bridge

Dating back to the Roman period, thisimpressive single-span bridge issituated some 10km on from thetumulus. A turning just before thebridge will take you directly to Nemrut,bypassing other sites below.

Around 120m long, 30m high and 7mwide, the bridge was built during thereign of Emperor Septimius Severusaround 200 AD. The arch is semicircu-lar and has a span of 34m. The bridgespans Kahta creek at its narrowestpoint and is still in use by pedestrians.There are number of cafés and giftshops and a restaurant nearby.

Two pillars at each end of the bridgeonce commemorated SeptimiusSeverus, his wife Julia Donna (referredto as the goddess of soldiers) and hissons Caracalla and Geta. Three pillarsstand out of the initial four; it is

believed that Caracalla, havingascended to the throne, killed hisyounger brother Geta and had thepillar representing him removed.

Haroon Kalesi

A ruined Commagene Fortress, Derik(Heroon) Fortress, is located in smallDatgeli village on Sincik road afterCendere Bridge. It has been built on a1400m high slope. It is guessed thatthe fort was built by Romans in 70. It isthough that the fortress was home tothe ruined Commagene settlement ofLocatena, and the remains of tombsand temples are visible.

Cendere Bridge (31)

Derik (Heroon) Kalesi (32)


Yeni Kale

Yeni Kale (New Fortress) is 20kmnorth of Kahta in the village ofKocahisar (Eski Kahta). The fortresssits on a rock 300m long, and wasprobably first occupied by the Arabs,though most of what is left is ofArtukid and Mamluke origin. The siteis 5km on from Cendere Bridge.

The fortress has three circular wallsenclosing the upper ward to the eastof the rock, and lower ward to thewest. To the west and north is an outercircuit enclosed by the third wall. Thewall around the upper ward still con-tains a tower built during the Arab era;the walls, towers and remains else-where point at Artukid and Mamlukeconstruction.

The fortress can be accessed by theouter gate, built in 1826, on the northside of the third wall. Here also is amosque tower built under the reign ofthe Mamluke Sultan al-Ashraf in 1293.Follow the outer circuit round to thesouth of the fortress where you willfind the gate to the lower ward; theway you have just come is exactly

how hostile enemies would have hadto move, giving the defenders of thefortress the chance to shoot at thembefore they could reach the lowerward. Also on the south side is a set ofstairs, build by the Artukid, whichleads all the way down to the creekand was used for bringing water up tothe fortress.

From here you should also be able tosee fieytan Köprüsü (literally “devil’sbridge”), whose construction is similarto that of Cendere.

Entering the lower ward, you will see ahall on the left with an impressivevault. In the upper ward to the east ofthe fortress you can see chambersthat originally had multiple storeys, aswell as cisterns.

Yeni Kale(33)

Kufic writings on entrance of Yeni Kale(34)

Ad›yaman/Kahta 41

Viwe of fieytan bridge (36)

On the road to Yeni Kale (35)


Herakles and Mithridates shake hands(37)

Arsameia

Some 4km on is Arsameia, within theMount Nemrut National Park, whichyou have to pay a small fee to enter;your ticket is valid for 24 hours in caseyou want to make use of accommoda-tion here (see p: 43) or the villages enroute to Nemrut.

The fortress might have been builtduring the 9th century BC under theHittites, but it was certainly an impor-tant sanctuary in the 1st century BCfor Mithridates and his son Antiochus.Excavations have demonstrated thatafter them there was a brief phase ofRoman occupation, and that the sitewas occupied subsequently in the 9thand 10th centuries, and again in the13th century.

A short walk will bring you to thishighly impressive fortress on a hillsideeast of the gorge of the Kahta Creek,with great views over the creek andthe nearby Kurdish village.

A relief to the south of site depictsApollo. This is just part of a scene inwhich Apollo is shown shaking thehand of Mithridates or Antiochus (ascene also visible at Nemrut Da¤›),signifying the deification of the king. To

Mithras(38)

Ad›yaman/Kahta 43

the north of this relief is a tunnel witha Greek inscription over its entrance,stating that Antiochus had improvedthe fortifications of the town andbeautified it. The tunnel is 158m longand does not lead to rooms or otherareas; it was probably intended toprovide a way for the dead Mithridates,repersonified as the God Mithras, torise from the ground. The relief overthe staircase leading to the tunnel’sentrance shows Heracles shaking thehand of Mithridates. Symbols of theMithras cult extend to the west of thesite where chambers of what probablywas a Mithraeum – a secret room toworship Mithras – are preserved.

Accommodation

If you wish to stay near Arsameia,Neflet’in Yeri (0416 741 22 24) is a goodchoice. It has a number of rooms,restaurant, gift shop and a campsite(bring your own tents to use it).

Tunnel to the underground palace(39)

Herakles and Mithridates (40)


Nemrut Da¤›

Is there anyone who, having heard ofthe giant heads on top of the NemrutDa¤› (Mount Nemrut), has not dreamtof watching the sunrise from there?This UNESCO World Heritage Sitehosts the majestic tomb of KingAntiochus, the Commagene ruler whodeclared himself the equal of gods. Hehad a temple/mausoleum built on topof the mountain, with giant stonedepictions of himself plus an array ofgods. Although successive earth-quakes have caused the heads of thestatues to topple, the sight of themstill makes a lasting impression.

The Commagenes were one of thesmallest kingdoms of antiquity,although powerful and respected. The

kingdom was created in 80 BC by KingMithridates I and reached its apogeeunder his son Antiochus (reignedbetween 64–38 BC). It is thought thatAntiochus had Persian ancestry on hisfather’s side (he claimed descent fromthe Achaemenid King Darius) andGreek ancestry on his mother’s side;his mother was in fact Laodice, thedaughter of Antiochus Grypos. This iswhy the temple displays Greek andPersian deities together. Unfortunatelymuch material was lost when theRomans captured Commagene andplundered the tumulus. The conicaltumulus rises 50 meters above thetemples, is 150 meters in diameterand is composed of countlessthousand fist-sized pieces of whitelimestone. Archaeologists, assumingthe tumulus enshrines the burialremains of Antiochus, have tunnelledinto the great cone of rocks but found

Statue of Antiochus (41)

Nemrut Mt tumulus (42)

Ad›yaman/Kahta 45

nothing to substantiate their assump-tions. The purpose of this massiveundertaking remains a mystery.

Helmut von Moltke, the German con-sultant to the Ottoman Empire, visitedthe site in 1838 and is thought to havebeen the first European to do so. Buthe kept quiet about his discovery. Itwas only in 1881 that two Germanscientists, Karl Puchstein and KarlSester, climbed the peak and reportedthe mysterious statues. Two yearslater the site was explored by KarlHumann, better known as the manwho excavated Pergamon (Bergama inwestern Turkey). Some locals believethat he carted off relics from Nemrutas he did at Pergamon. In the 1950sproper excavation work under theaegis of German archaeologistsTheresa Goel and Friedrich KarlDörner was finally undertaken. Dörner

dedicated some years of his life to thestudy of Mount Nemrut, and interest-ingly, after his death his ashes werescattered on the sacred temple.

Over 2000m high, the mountain is105km from Ad›yaman and 65 fromKahta, and is now a national park. Thesite is best visited any time betweenthe end of spring till and late autumn(the best period is from May through toSeptember); at other times snowyconditions may reduce access to someareas. Even in summer the summitcan be freezing cold, so bring warmclothing as well as one or two blanketsif you intend to sit around for a while.Obviously, do wear shoes suitable for ahike and bring a reasonable quantity ofdrinking water. Organized tours willtake you to the base of the mound onwhich the mausoleum sits, from whereyou can climb up in about 20 minutes.If you are a professional photographerwith plenty of gear, you are likely tohave to pay a small official fee.

Antiochus’ tomb is believed to besomewhere in the mound, though ithas not been excavated. The mound issurrounded by manmade terraces.

Theresa Goel (43) Friedrich Karl Dörner(44)

Col

d M

orni

ng (4

5)


Eastern Terrace

The statues, once 10m in height, originally represented Antiochus side by sidewith a bevy of deities, some of which are Hellenic-Zoroastrian assimilations.These include Apollo-Mithra-Helios (Apollo being the Greek God of music, whileMithra was a Zoroastrian figure referred to as the judge of souls and Helios wasthe Sun God), Tyche (the Greek Goddess of fortune), Zeus-Ahura Mazda (Zeusbeing the supreme God in Greek mythology, while Ahura Mazda was the God ofGods in Zorastrianism) and Heracles-Ares (the Greek epitome of strength andthe God of War respectively). The toppled heads are at least 2m tall. Thesefigures are accompanied by giant statues of eagles and lions, supposedly pro-tecting the temple-mausoleum. The inscriptions in Greek on the backs of thestatues are to do with ceremonies for King Antiochus’ birthday celebrations.

Allow a good 20 minutes to climb to the eastern terrace. This area is popularwith those who want to watch the spectacular sunrise. The site can be gusty andyou will see people sheltering behind the statues or rock columns. There is awell stocked café and gift shop for refreshments or breakfast.

Towards the eastern terrace (46)

Ad›yaman/Kahta 47

Watching the sunrise (48)

Moment of Sunrise (47)

Western Terrace

The deities above are depicted by morestatues lined up on the westernterrace, which can be reached via thepath around the north of the tumulus.Perhaps surprisingly, the heads on thewestern terrace are better preservedthan on the eastern terrace. Here youcan see a relief depicting KingAntiochus shaking hands with Apollo,Zeus and Hercules, though the mostinteresting thing to see is anotherrelief of a lion; all of these are keptinside a container to protect themfrom snow. The star on his neckprobably stands for the CommegeneKingdom, while the stars of his back

stand for Mars, Mercury and Jupiter.Some believe that the lion isastronomically or astrologically linkedto the stellar configuration at 7.37pmon 14 July in the year 109 BC, theexact date and time at whichMithrades declared a kingdomindependent of the Seleucids.

As the eastern terrace is popular forsunrise views, so the western terraceis much used for viewing the sunset. Astone path leads here and theclimb up is mucheasier than that tothe easternterrace.


Towards western terrace(49)

Western terrace(50)

Ad›yaman/Kahta 49

Sun

fall

at w

este

rn te

rrac

e(51)

Reaching the mountain

Organized tours from Kahta, Ad›yamanor Malatya will take you to MountNemrut; groups typically comprisearound half a dozen people. The longertours depart from Ad›yaman at 2am,enabling you to see the sunrise andthen visit sites such as Arsameia,Cendere Bridge and the KarakuflTumulus (all covered under Kahta; seep.: 38). The shorter version only takes

you to the summit. There are also reg-ular tours during the day, which won’tlet you see the sunrise or sunset (alsoexceptionally beautiful).

Driving, you can simply follow thesigns up the mountain. The route is ona track, so proceed slowly. You willhave to park your car at the base ofthe summit mound and continue onfoot. If you stop by Karadut village enroute from Kahta, you can buyexcellent local jam and nuts.


The family-run Karadut guesthouse in Karadut village (0416 737 2169) nearbyhas just three rooms and is adequate; it also serves excellent locally Kurdishhome made food. Also in the village is the Euphrates Hotel (0416 737 21 75) with52 rooms, and serving breakfast and dinner. The hotel is 9km from themountain.

Accommodation

A local from Kahta (52)

Ad›yaman black mulberry (53)

Gerger (Aldûfl)

Beyond Kahta, the small town ofGerger (population 4,059) sits on thebanks of the Euphrates 105kmnortheast of Ad›yaman. Though theriver renders the sur-rounding area cultivable,unemployment is highand some rely on remit-tances from relatives inthe cities or abroad.

The sole attraction isGerger Kalesi, believed tohave been built byArsemes, an ancestor ofthe Commagene rulers,in the 2nd century BC.The location of fortress atop a steephill in the village of Oymakl› (NefsiGerger) on the west bank of theEuphrates, made it a great vantagepoint. You can reach the village byleaving Gerger in the direction ofMount Nemrut and turning after 8km.The climb up isn’t easy but ismanageable and is recommended forthe views.

The fortress was the first administra-tive site of the Commagenes, who usedthe place as a winter residence.

Armenians dwelt here in the 11thcentury, while under the Mamlukes thesite became an important SyrianChristian centre. The only remaining

building is a gatehousewith vaulted chambersand bearing a Mamlukeinscription. On the westside of the cliff is a highrelief showing a walkingman wearing the samecrown as the figures atNemrut; an inscriptionidentifies him asAntiochus.

If you need a place tostay, there is an ö¤retmenevi (0416 43124 00) next to Gerger town’s only highschool, Gerger Lisesi.

Ad›yaman/Gerger 51

Folkloric clothes (54)

Animal breeding (56)

A detail from Gerger Kalesi(55)

Tut means“mulberry”,reflecting thefact thatmulberry treesgrow here inabundance. Thetown, with a population of 4,369, is inthe Taurus range 60km northwest ofAd›yaman, with the Göksu River to thesouth and west and the fiovak River tothe east.

Tut carpets, rugs and felt cloth aregenerally made in villages and are wellregarded in Ad›yaman. The carpetsand rugs can be dyed naturally withmadder or with artificial colours, andare mainly exported to USA andEurope, so if you are here you may findit worthwhile to spend some timebrowsing examples of these in Tut’sshops. Copper, woodwork and leather-wear are other local handicrafts.

Tut has an Ottoman-era Ulu Camii,built in 1634 and last restored in 1953.It has 12 columns inside, and a stoneminaret. Much more recent is theMusalla Camii, built in 1913 andfeaturing some wood ornamentation.

Vijne Bridge

Anotherexample of oldarchitecture,the Vijne

Bridge, can be found inthe Çaml›ca quarter. The

bridge was once used by caravans andis still in reasonable condition.


Tut (Tût)

Girls weaving rugs(57)

Wood work(59)

Traditional rug(58)

Samsat (Somsat/fiemîzînan)

Samsat (population 4,654) is a smalltown around 47km southeast ofAd›yaman. The town sits on apeninsula extending southwest into thelake of Atatürk Dam. Agriculture is themain industry here; apples, grapes,olives and pomegranates are amongthe main products.

The old town was one of the mostancient settlements in the region, andwas strategically important as a fordon the Euphrates. It was calledSemizata in the Sumerian era and waslater a Hittite centre. In 708 BC it wastaken by the Assyrians who built an

enclosure around the mound, andafter changing hands several moretimes it became part of theCommagene Kingdom in 69 BC. Thetown was an important commercialcentre under the Romans, whoannexed it in 71 AD. The fortressdeclined in importance when the areacame under Muslim control, though itsfortunes revived under the Hamdanids,who built another defensive wallagainst the Byzantines. The site wasrefortified when it was handed over tothe Artukids of Hasankeyf in 1170.

Lucian, the satirist and philosopher,was born in what is now Samsataround AD 120. Although he is oftendescribed as Greek, he may have beenan Assyrian who wrote in Greek.Besides producing learned works,Lucian was among the first sci-fiwriters, and actually came up with astory involving lunar travel.

Ad›yaman/Tut/Samsat 53

Historical artifacts from Samsat (60)

Samsat (61)

Fishing (62)

A new town of Samsat was built on thenewly created lakeshore in 1988 afterthe old town was inundated under therising waters of the Atatürk Dam.Ankara University staff undertook eightyears of archaeological excavationsbefore the town was submerged. Theydiscovered a Commagene palace built

at the behest of Mithridates,but only had

time to excavate it partially. The palaceincluded a richly ornamented room inwhich heads were found thatresembled the ones in Nemrut Da¤›,suggesting that the room was used forworship of deities and the king.Artefacts such as gems wrapped incloth, glass and porcelain cups,bracelets, necklaces and earthenwarejars were also discovered. Most ofthese were handed over to theMuseum of Ad›yaman. Another palacedating from the 12th and 13thcenturies lies to the east of themound. It was excavated in the 1960s.


A view from Samsat (63)

Surfing (64)

Besni (Bêsnî)

Besni (population 24,996), 44km south-west of Ad›yaman, has modern streetsand an old city that you can visit. Thedistrict’s population is a mixture ofTurks (mainly in the town) and Kurds.

The name of the town derives fromBethesna, meaning “a mate in para-dise” in Syriac. The area was part ofMalatya province until 1926, thenbriefly came under Gaziantep province,and was returned to Malatya again forjust over 20 years before becomingpart of the new Ad›yaman province in1954. As the old town was not suitablefor enlargement and cars could noteasily use the narrow streets, it wasdecided to move the town to a site in

what had been the Çat area.Destructive floods in 1956 delayed theproject, and the move to the new townwas not completed until 1965. The oldtown is worth seeing if you are in thearea, with assorted Ottoman buildingssuch as mosques and hamams.Further out are an assortment of olderhistorical sites.

Besni is well known for its weaving andearns a decent reward from its carpetworkshops – the backbone of the localeconomy – and stores. South of themain bazaar you can easily findyourself surrounded by examples ofthese small carpet-making enterprises.

Ad›yaman/Besni 55

Traditional customs(65)

Besni bazaar (66)

Besni A.C. Yamazaki school (67)

Some of youths are relatively welleducated and tend to have leftistviews. A visiting Japanese coupledecided to show solidarity with thechildren by building the modern BesniA.C Yamazaki Primary School in thetown centre, with a large billboard atthe entrance showing Japanesecostume.

The town hosts a cultural festival inlate September, featuring drama,poetry reading and seminars to do withthe arts.

Old Besni (Bêsnîya Kevn)

The old town is 3km from the towncentre, at the entrance to town if you

arrive from Ad›yaman. A steep hill hereis the site of Besni fortress, aroundwhich the settlement is based. Thefortress can only be reached from thesouth side. Most of the sites arelocated close to each other.

Grand Mosque

East of the fortress is the Ulu Camii,there are no other remains of thismosque except its minaret. Accordingto a script, the mosque was restoredin 1492. However, there is nodocument giving information about itsarchitect and date of construction. Thepart between the upper point of the


Rug weaving factory (68)

Old Besni (70)

Kur

sunl

u C

amii

(69)

minaret and its gallery is ornamentedwith some motifs. The style isdomestic with some Arabic influence.

Kurflunlu Mosque

This mosque in K›z›lcaoba quarter of‹dris neighbourhood was constructed.Having a rectangular plan, the mosquewas constructed with smooth cutstones. While the gate is still standing,its flat roof is now destroyed. Thereare three rows of windows on three ofits outer walls. The square basedminaret of the mosque is located inthe north-eastern corner of the court-yard. The upper part of the minaret ispartly destroyed. Its classical Ottomanstyle suggests that it dates back to the16th or 17th century.

Meydan Bath

Near by the Kurflunlu Camii is theremains of the Meydan Hamam, it islocated on the west side of the streamwhich divides the town into two. Itsentrance is made of black and whitestones and there is a pool in thechanging section which is fed by waterpouring out of the mouth of a lionsculpture. The hamam is not in use.

Tahta Oba (Dereli Oba) Camii

This mosque is to the east of KurflunluMosque, in Tahtaoba location of Kahtaneighbourhood. The mosque iscompletely destroyed except itsstanding minaret. Geometric designscan be observed between the upper

Ad›yaman/Besni 57

Old photo of Kursunlu Camii (71)

View from old Besni (73)

Meydan Bath (72)

edge and balcony of the minaret whichis located to the north-western part ofthe courtyard. Today, guardrails of theminaret are broken and some aremissing.

Tahta Oba Bath

The remains of this bath with rectan-gular plan can be found in Kahtaneighbourhood. Two successive gateswith a space in-between lead to thechanging room. This round-shapedroom is surrounded by walls withniches on. The changing room, warmand hot parts give way to each other.There is a hot platform at the centre.

K›z›lca Oba Mosque

There is no sufficient information con-cerning the date and constructor ofthis mosque located at K›z›lca Oba inBesni. Presently, there are someremains of its south-eastern front and

walls in other directions. The minaretcould survive half to its height. Wallswere constructed with wooden beamsand smoothly cut stone blocks. Thereare three rectangular windows on theastern wall. The cylindrical minaret issquare based. The style suggests thatit was constructed in the 15th century.

Keysun

Another fortress, Keysun, rests on topof a mound (höyük) in the plains of theÇak›rhöyük district, where there hasbeen a settlement inhabitedcontinuously since the Paleolithic era.The age of the fortress is unknown,but it has been rebuilt and restoredmany times. Only the walls remainnow, but the walk there is enjoyable.

Sofraz Tumulus

This site is 15km southeast of Besni inthe Üçgöz (Sofraz) area. The main


Accommodation

Try the fiahane restaurant onAtatürk Cad (0416 318 16 66),serves local food.

Next to the otogar is the Ustahan Hotel (0416318 17 03), which has decent enough en-suiterooms with TV though breakfast is not includ-ed in the rate.

Places to eat

Besni women cooking bread (74)

entrance (dromos), is 5m below thesurface and is reached via the gate tothe south; you will have to walk upseveral steps and down a flight ofsteps to reach it. It gives onto the mainroom of the mausoleum dating back tothe Romans in the 2nd century.

Sesönk Tumulus

There is another tumulus located tothe south some 150 meters away,where a vaulted chamber containsthree funerary rooms carved into therock as well as sarcophagi. You canenter the chamber and mayget a creepy feeling fromtouching the moist cream-coloured stones; torches areprovided by the caretakers.Both tumuli are looked after bymember of tourism office, youwill be provided with a handlight to access the graves.

Dikilitafl Tümülüs

Some 30km further on from the SofrazTumulus is a village called Zorma¤araon Mount K›z›lda¤ (Çiyayê Qizil).A tumulus lies within walking distanceof the village (allow up to 45 minutesto reach it on foot) though the trackthere is passable with a 4x4. Obelisks5m tall surround the tumulus.

K›z›lin Bridge

Leave Zorma¤ara village and back onthe main road some 20km further onis K›z›lin Bridge built over the GöksuStream. A bridge was built here in aslong ago as the reign of the Roman

Emperor Vespasian, and this was a keycrossing point on the Euphrates in theMiddle Ages. What you see today is athree-arched structure similar to theCendere Bridge in Kahta (see p: 39).The site is worth seeing as there area number of historical gravestonesnearby, though its central arch hascollapsed.

Göksu Caves and Gümüflkaya(Palafl) Caves

All along the Göksu River, especially invillages like K›z›lin(Hementil) and Sar›kaya,there are a number ofimpressive caves in thecliffs, sometimes veryhigh up. Best are theGümüflkaya Caves, inthe southern part ofthe district. To seethem head to the vil-lage of Göksu, 40kmsouthwest ofAd›yaman, on thebanks of the GöksuRiver. The caves

here are connected to each other byvery narrow passages that lead torooms, balconies and wells createdaround 150 BC by the Romans, whoinhabited the caves.

Thermal Springs

Two hot springs 13km south of Besnitown, namely Kuruçay Kapl›cas› andÇörmük Kapl›cas›. Besides separatepools for men and women, you canalso use the municipal picnic site.

Ad›yaman/Besni 59

Sofraz tumulus (76)

K›z›lin bridge (77)

Obelisk (75)

Gölbafl› (Serêgolê)

Pleasant Gölbafl› (population 26,993),with its large forest, is 63km west ofAd›yaman city close to the GöksuRiver. This is something of a junctiontown, served by roads connectingMalatya, Ad›yaman, Gaziantep andKahramanmarafl provinces. Gölbafl›Lake is connected to the smallerAzapl› and Yeflilova (‹nekli) Lakes bychannels built by DS‹ (the state-runwater utility company), providing waterfor irrigation. The lakes also supplydelicious carp and catfish, and theirpresence lends Gölbafl› something ofthe air of a recreational centre.

The area is part of the GAP project(see p: 67), and the forthcomingÇataltepe Dam on the Göksu river isexpected to augment irrigation andprovide new employmentopportunities. The Göksu alreadysupplies drinking water to theindustrial province of Gaziantepthrough pipelines via Gölbafl› Lake.

Agriculture is the dominant activity inthis mixed Turkish and Alevi Kurdisharea, which is particularly known forits grapes and pistachios. The localgrapes are so highly regarded thatthey are known as “prophet grapes”and celebrated at an annual festival inmid-September. At this time, not onlyare the best grapes awarded prizes,but cultural and sporting activities areorganised.

Alt›nl› Bridge andthe German Rail Bridge

The main sight, such as it is, is theelegant Alt›nl› Bridge in Yolba¤› village,7km from Gölbafl› town. Spanning theGöksu River and still in use, it is


Gölbafl›, Alt›nl› bridge (78)

Bazaar (79)

thought to date back to the Romansand comprises one large arch andthree smaller ones. The bridge wasconstructed without use of a cement-ing material, instead taking advantageof the weight of the stones themselvesto hold the structure together, atechnique known as Cendere (meaning“the press”). The main arch has 24layers of stones, while the smaller

arches have 9 layers of stones. At thebase of the bridge, note the conicalstructures which protect it against thewater.

There is also a rail bridge across theGöksu River, used by trains runningbetween Diyarbak›r andKahramanmarafl. It was built by theGermans between 1938 and 1940.

Ad›yaman/Gölbafl› 61

Local tobacco (80)

Alt›nl› bridge (81)

Sun fall (82)

The pool of sacred fish (1)

Urfa (officially fianl›urfa) isdescribed both by Muslim andJewish sources as the place whereAbraham received his summonsfrom God to move to the PromisedLand. According to other stories, theGarden of Eden was located some-where around here.

Whatever your beliefs about thesestories, it is certain that the area hasbeen inhabited for thousands of years.The Hurrians built a fortress on thesite of Urfa city’s present citadelaround 3500 BC. Thereafter theHittites and Assyrians took control ofthe city, followed by the usualchanging parade of rulers, includingthe Byzantines, Seljuks, Akkoyunlusand Ottomans. The area was strategi-cally significant thanks to its role as atransit point on the Silk Road, and wasan important site for trade in jew-ellery, cotton and leather. Muchearlier, under the Byzantines, Urfawas already prospering as a city, andwas endowed with monasteries,churches and schools.

As with Mardin, Urfa boasts a multi-cultural society, dominated by Kurdsbut with Arabs and some Turcomansalso visible. Within Urfa city as well asdistricts such as Viranflehir, Siverekand Ceylanp›nar, you may well seepeople in traditional dress. The baggyKurdish trousers men wear are muchwider here than in Batman orDiyarbak›r. Some women in generaltend to wear a purple scarf (wearing



1.523.099 (2007)

Average altitude

518mArea19,091 square kilometres

Districtsfianl›urfa, Akçakale, Birecik, Bozova,

Ceylanp›nar, Halfeti, Harran, Hilvan,

Siverek, Suruç, Viranflehir

EconomyAgriculture (cotton particularly),

Fishing, Tourism

Neighbouring provinces

Gaziantep (west), Ad›yaman (north-

west), Diyarbak›r (northeast),

Mardin (east)

At a glanceLocal men from Urfa (2)

purple scarf is also very popularamong men) and tie a red-and-blackstrip around the forehead, but some ofthe Zaza women in Siverek are morelikely to wear a white headscarf.

The highlight of the province isobviously Urfa city itself and its sitescommemorating Abraham, including apool said to have saved the Prophetfrom death when he was thrown fromthe citadel in to the fire on the ordersof King Nimrod. The city also boastssome interesting bazaars, whilenearby one of the world’s oldest shrinecomplexes can be visited. Not far fromthe city Göbekli Tepe, has substantialremains of one of the world’s oldestknown shrine or temple complexes,established by hunter-gatherers in the9th millennium BC.

Another noteworthy attraction isHarran, not far from the Syrian border,

where unusual beehive houses – socalled because of their conical roofs –can still be seen. Close by in the samedistrict lies So¤matar, a group ofancient temples built by the Sabiansfor their worship of the sun, moon andplanets. Elsewhere, extensive citywalls in Viranflehir, and the remains ofthe citadel of Rumkale can be reachedby boat from Halfeti, itself known forits dark-hued roses. Nature lovers cantry to spot migrant ibises in Birecik,gazelles in Ceylanp›nar and turtles inBozova.

fianl›urfa CityWith a history going back some 13,500years, fianl›urfa is one of the world’soldest cities. It is deservedly called“the City of Prophets”, being believedto have been the home of the ProphetAbraham, and the city is on the pil-grimage route for Muslims travelling

fianl›urfa 67

The Güneydo¤u Anadolu Projesi(Southeastern Anatolia Project, oftencalled GAP) is a massive dam con-struction effort to generate hydro-electricity and irrigate this underde-veloped part of Turkey. It consists of22 dams on Tigris and Euphrates, ofwhich the Atatürk Dam on theEuphrates is the centrepiece.

Irrigation has certainly transformedthe prospects for agriculture. Wherefarmers once struggled to produceone harvest of wheat each year, nowthey can grow not only wheat butalso peppers and cotton (the area

now produces half the cotton outputof Turkey). Today fishing is of someimportance, a large proportion of thefreshwater fish caught here are soldon to the tourist resorts of westernTurkey.

But despite the many benefits of theproject, some environmentalists areconcerned that it has reinforcedinequalities in the region, forcingpoor tenant farmers off the landwhile the landowning classes reapthe rewards. Others say that the proj-ect has caused a rise in waterbornediseases, while yet others lament theloss of archaeological heritage thathas been submerged or will one daybe drowned (for example atHasankeyf, Batman; see p: 334) bythe lakes created. The project hasnaturally also angered the down-stream countries of Syria and Iraq,worried about their continued accessto the rivers’ waters.

Southeastern Anatolia Project, often called (GAP)

Agriculture in southeast (3)

between Syria and Iran. As befits sucha city, the place has a conservativefeel. Urfa has a population of 472,238with Arabs and Kurds forming themajority in the centre (you’ll see quitea few men in Arab jalabiya robes andwomen in black gowns), while Kurdspredominate in the fast-growingsuburbs.

Alexander the Great gave the city thename Edessa, but it was subsequentlyrenamed Urfa (the name by which it isstill commonly known) and then offi-cially fianl›urfa

(“Glorious Urfa”) by the TurkishNational Assembly in 1984, commem-orating its role in resisting theoccupying French army (who werethemselves taking over from theoccupying British in the aftermath ofthe collapse of the Ottoman Empire).

The French were defeated on11 April 1920 and forced toretreat to Syria, andnowadays the date 11April is marked in Urfa asLiberation Day.

Urfa is well known for spicyfood, with many dishes

featuring a red pepper calledÎsot, which even figures in songs

of praise performed at convivial socialgatherings called s›ra geceleri (“nightsby turn”), which groups of male friendstraditionally take turns to host at


A view of Urfa Kalesi (4)

Red pepper (5)

Urfa s›ra gecesi(Nights by turn) (6)

home. Nowadays some restaurantshave picked up on the concept and puton similar evenings of music anddance for customers.

‹brahim Halilullah Dergah›

It is believed that Abraham was born inthis cave at the southern end of theAkarbafl› street, and that this is wherehe dwelt for the first ten years of hislife, hiding from the brutal local kingNimrod, who had ordered that allnewborn children be killed. The cavetoday is a Muslim shrine, withseparate entrances for men andwomen. In another cave nearby a hairsaid to have come from the ProphetMohammed’s head is exhibited.

This large complex consists of a verylarge mosque with the same sizecourtyard which is carpeted duringthe pray times as there is alwaysgoing to be a lack of space. The com-plex also has washing rooms (showerrooms) cleaning facilities and a largeIslamic library. The site also used asa resting place for foreign pilgrim-ages such as those coming from Iranin large groups.

There are number of good (if slightlypricey) restaurants and a café near thepool with good views.

Urfa Kalesi

Offering good views of the mosquesand pool below, this citadel on a hilljust above the cave is believed to havebeen built in the 12th century. Besidesruined fortifications, you can see twoCorinthian columns which were part ofa winter palace built here in the late2nd or early 3rd century. The name ofa queen, Shalmath, is inscribed inSyriac at the base of one of them.

Halil-ür Rahman (Bal›kl› Göl),Halil Camii and ‹brahimMadrasah

It is said that after Abraham emergedfrom his cave, he angered Nimrod bytrying to smash the idols in thetemple. The King ordered Abraham tobe thrown from the citadel into a pyrebelow. Thanks to divine intervention,the fire turned to water and thefirewood to fish. Another tale has itthat Nimrod’s daughter, Zeliha, whodid not worship the idols but the trueGod, threw herself into the flames as

fianl›urfa 69

Remains of Urfa Kalesi (7)

well. The pool, close to the cave, issurrounded by stone arches, a relaxingpark and several mosques, and is nowfilled with carp, which some regard assacred. It is said that anyone trying tocatch and eat one of the fish will goblind; large crowds of visitors concen-trate on feeding the fish instead.

North of the pool is the ‹brahimMadrasah, built in the 1710s, with alarge courtyard. South of the pool isHalil Camii, which comprises amosque and madrasah. It was rebuiltin the early 19th century, but itsearliest surviving section, a squareminaret, dates right back to the early13th century. Next to the Halil Camii isa small room with two windows

looking into the pool; this is the spotwhere it is believed Abraham wasthrown into the fire. The site is popularwith visitors, who pay a small fee tothe official at the door to say a prayerhere.

Selahattin Eyyubi Camii

This building, on Vali Fuat BeyCaddesi, a little way to the north of thepool, was built by Armenians in 1860and later on converted into a mosque.It once had 32 columns of red marble,and carvings of snakes can still beseen on the windows and birds andangels on the remaining columns.

Ulu Cami

Some 15 minutes’ walk from Bal›kl›Göl towards the city centre is the UluCami, near the Eski Hükümet Kona¤›.Probably built on the site of what wasonce St. Stephen’s Church (also calledK›z›l Church), the Great Mosque issituated on the west side of Divan YoluCad. It has a large courtyardcontaining a graveyard, and a prayerhall dating from 1146. The octagonal


Bal›kl› Göl at night (8)

Whe

re ‹b

rahi

m w

as th

row

n in

to fi

re (9

)

minaret in the north wall of thecourtyard might at first sight seemstrange in comparison with the squareminaret of Halil Camii, but demon-strates that polygonal minarets were atypical feature for 12th- and 13th-century Urfa. While the cross vaults inthe three naves of the prayer hall arenot so common, the dome over themihrab is perfectly placed in atradition that is also recognizable inthe Great Mosques of Mardin, Silvanand K›z›ltepe. The minaret was once abell tower and a large clock has beeninstalled at the top.

To the southeast of the Ulu Cami, onDivan Yolu Cad itself, is an 18th-century reconstruction of a 12th-century madrasah.

Eyyubi Madrasah

The madrasah, located in Camikebirquarter east of Ulu Cami, originallydates from the Ayyubid era. In 1781 itwas demolished and rebuilt by oneNazikzade Hac› ‹brahim Efendi, and atthis time a fountain was built by FiruzBey in the southern wall. Besidesclassrooms on either side of thecourtyard, there is a large dome-covered room on the eastern side,which was used as a library.

Vali Bey Hamam

In Mithat Pafla Cad in DabbakhaneMahallesi, not far from the bazaararea, this rectangular, stone hamam

was built in 1693 by the Vali Beg binMahmud. The warm room has threeparts, two with dooms and one with avaulted roof.

Bazaars

Urfa retains several magnificent andphotogenic Ottoman-era bazaarswhich you must visit at some point.Leave a good few hours to discover thebazaars and hans, where you mightpurchase good-quality spices, tradi-tional clothes or dried, organic food-stuffs. All the bazaars are located notfar from Bal›kl› Göl; eight are coveredwhile one is underground.

The Kazaz Bazaar (Bedesten), sellingtraditional clothes, was built in 1566 byBehram Pafla and is located oppositethe Merçek Han› and south of GümrükHan. A document dated 1740 refers tothe building as the Bezzazistan andstates that it had been restored. The

fianl›urfa 71

One of the city’s most famoussons is the singer and actor‹brahim Tatl›ses, born into alarge, poor family here in1952. When still young hestarted working on construc-tion sites, and was overheardsinging one day by a localwho helped arrange a record-ing session for him. Eventuallyhe became a well-knownsinger and businessman. Hejustifies his lack of educationwith the remark, “Was therean Oxford College in Urfa thatwe did not attend?” Formore on famous people ofUrfa See (Siverek page: 91)

Some prominentpeople from Urfa

Ulu Cami (10)

barrel-vaulted structure is aligned onan east-west direction and has fourdomes. The shops lining the bazaarused to stand one meter above theground, but were lowered during arestoration in 1988. This is one of thebest preserved bazaars in Anatolia.

The Sipahi Bazaar is west of theGümrük Han near Afla¤› Çarfl› and hascarpets, kilims, furs and felt goods. Itwas built in 1562 by Behram Pafla, andmay have served as a stable forvisitors to the han.

The K›nac› Bazaar, for jewellery, isaligned north–south and dates fromthe Ottoman period. The northernsection is barrel-vaulted while thesouthern part is uncovered.

The Hüseyniye Bazaar was built in1887 by Hüseyin Pafla and consists of

two parallel buildings between theÇad›rc› and Kazanc› Bazaars. Restoredin 1998, this is where to come forcopperware. The Boyahane Bazaar iswhere dyers used to work. Finally, theEski (Old) Kuyumcu Bazaar is used bya variety of tradesmen. A barrel-vaulted Ottoman bazaar, it was partlydemolished in 1983 to make wayfor a road.

Eski Ömeriye Camii

Located in the Kazanc› Bazaar, this isthought to be one of the oldestmosques in fianl›urfa, although theprecise date of the construction is notknown. The earliest inscription statesthat it was restored in 1301. On eitherside of the mihrab are the finestbalcony-style minbars in the city. Theyare topped by half-domes made ofstone and feature iron balustrades.

Hans

The one han you should visit duringyour tour of the bazaars is GümrükHan, located near Haflimiye Square.Built by Behram Pafla in 1562 duringthe reign of Suleiman the Magnificent,the han is the most impressive andmonumental inn in the city. The squarecourtyard is surrounded by shops andthe rooms on the second floor openonto porticos. The han was restored


Urfa Bazaar (11)

Shopping at Urfa Bazaar (12)

between 2001 and 2006; today therooms on the upper level housetailors’ workshops, and the courtyard isfilled with tea houses.

After the Gümrük Han, Barutçu Han isthe most impressive inn in Urfa. Alsoknown as the harem of Halil Bey of theSak›plar, it is located in Kazanc›larBazaar and entered via a vaulted iwan.The western and northern sections arethree storeys tall but the southernsection is in ruins. Today the groundfloor is occupied by felt-makers anddress shops.

Also noteworthy is the large Millet Han,currently undergoing restoration with aview to turning it into an archaeologicalmuseum. Thought to have been built inthe sixteenth century, it is located nearthe Samsat Gate.

Akçarlar House

Located near the pool of ProphetAbraham is this beautiful example oftraditional Urfa architecture, with fivecourtyards. The area around the pool ofAbraham was first developed in theearly 18th century, and the AkçarlarHouse is thought to date from thisperiod. Restorated between 1994 and2001, it now serves as HarranUniversity House of Culture. The houseis built on tiers rising up a slope and is

divided into a selaml›k (men’s section)and harem (women’s section).

Museum of Urfa

If you plan to visit historical sitesaround Urfa, it’s not a bad idea first tocheck out the city’s museum (0414 31315 88), on Çaml›k Cad, near TopçuMeydan› in the northern part of the city.It showcases artefacts from sites likeHarran and Göbekli Tepe. Assyrian,Babylonian and Hittite relics areexhibited in the first room on theground floor, while the second and thethird rooms contain Neolithic and earlyBronze Age items. The museum alsohas a section dedicated toethnographic items.

The museum is open from Tuesday toSunday between 8am and noon andfrom 1.30pm to 4.30pm.

fianl›urfa 73

Gümrük Han(13)

Cevahir Konukevi (Cevahir Guest House) (14)


As an important provincial centre, Urfa has good transport connections to the rest ofTurkey. The main bus station is to the west of the city centre. The airport has directflights from Ankara and Istanbul.

Getting there

Places to stay include theHotel Edessa,Göl Cad (0414 215 99 11,www.hoteledessa.com), afive-star affair in a perfectlocation overlooking the Bal›kl›Göl complex; the three-starHarran Hotel on Atatürk Cad(0414 313 28 60,www.hotelharran.com.tr),which has a swimming pool,hamam and top-floor bar,though the street itself can benoisy; and Gülizar Konuk Evion Göl Cad (0414 215 05 05), abeautiful Armenian courtyardmansion that houses a hoteland restaurant. It’s alsopossible to stay at Y›ld›zKonukevi (see below).

The city is well known inTurkey for its lahmacun (thinbread topped with spicy lamb),Urfa kebap (featuring îsot) andçi¤ köfte (likewise with îsot).There are two places in Urfathat organise s›ra geceleri, andit’s worth booking if you wantto attend: Y›ld›z Saray›Konukevi, (0414 216 94 94) andY›ld›z, Meydan› Yorganc› Sokak.More posh is Cevahir Konukevi,Büyükyol Cad (0414 215 9377), with live music and a fullmenu.

Accommodation

Municipality: 0414 313 16 34 Tourist information: 0414 313 10 40/0414 313 28 88

Making çi¤ köfte in s›ra gecesi (16)

Places to eat and drink

Cev

ahir

Kon

ukev

i (C

evah

ir G

uest

Hou

se)

(15)

Göbekli Tepe (Girê Navokê)

It’s worth heading 15km northeast outof Urfa to the village of Örencik(Xerabrefl) to see Göbekli Tepe, thesubstantial remains ofone of the world’s oldestknown shrine or templecomplexes. Discovered bya German archaeologistKlaus Schmidt, the sitewas established byhunter-gatherers whoused to come together inorder to hold religionceremonies in the 11thmillennium BC, and isstill being excavated. Thesite is a jumble of largeand tall beautifully carved stonesfeaturing pictures of animals andsome others with interesting figurestones and old walls, but look out alsofor the lone tree which grows here–regarded by locals as one which canmake wishes come true. Archaeologystudents are able to escort visitorsaround the site, but it is not permittedto enter. To reach the site, drive 5kmout towards Mardin and turn left justafter the fievkat Petrol Station, contin-uing for another 10km.

Atatürk Dam

Constructed between 1983 and 1992on the Euphrates, the Atatürk Dam is52km northwest of Urfa. One of theworld’s largest barrages, it generateshydroelectricity as well as providingwater for irrigation, but its creation

meant the inundation of 120settlements. The dam’s lake hasallowed a fishing sector to arise and issurrounded by several recreational

sites. Some times inSeptember a water-sports festival isorganised locally. Thereare no formal tours ofthe dam, but there is adesignated viewpointabout 1km away, where itoffers you a good view ofthe area and some seatsto relax with a cup of teaand light snack from thecafé nearby.

Two irrigation tunnelsfrom the lake run parallel to eachother from northeast of Urfa Plain tothe Harran Plain, a distance of26.4km.

Karaali Spa

This state-run three-star spa resort isin Karaali village, some 44km southeastfrom Urfa. The water, at an averagetemperature of 45°C, can help treatrheumatism, skin diseases, inflamma-tory diseases and kidney stones.

The Karaali Spa Hotel has 34 roomsand an Apart with 54 flats. The flats areconsist of two rooms, a kitchen and asmall privet (private) pool inside. Thereare two large pools (one for man andthe other for women) in the hotel whichcan be used by the day visitors and thehotel guests. The Spa also offers you arestaurant and two cafes.


Göbekli Tepe (17)

Atatürk Dam (18)

Ulu Cami (19)

Bozova (population 14,450) is a district38km northwest of Urfa, with a historygoing back to the Assyrians, whonamed the settlement hereAsuranianu in 2000 BC. The town ofBozova is only 17km from the AtatürkDam and is surrounded by terrainwhich has been transformed intofarmland thanks to new irrigation. Theproximity of the dam has allowedsome water sports to take off andthere is an annual international eventdevoted to them (Su Sporlar› Festivali).Also here are some state-ownedholiday resorts equipped with modernfacilities.

The region is also home to the largeEuphrates soft-shell turtle (RafetusEuphraticus), living in the Tigris andEuphrates Rivers. This endangeredspecies is protected in the Bozovaconservation zone.

Just like the surrounding cities,Bozova is a place of great historicheritage and a considerable number ofmounds indicating historical settle-ments (höyük) are located here. Some

excavations are still going on, forexample in the village of Göller (Sö¤ütHöyük) and in Sultantepe. However,some settlements dating from as farback as the Chalcolithic until theSeljuk period, such as Lidar Höyük andKurban Höyük, were submerged by theconstruction of the Atatürk Dam.

Çar Melik (Çar Melîk)Caravanserai

Believed to date from Seljuk times,this caravanserai is in the village ofBüyükhan (Çarmelik), 17km west ofBozova. The traveller Evliya Çelebirefers to it in his Seyahatname andexplains that it was built by fourbrothers who were princes, hence thename (which strictly translates as“four kings”). Urgently in need ofrestoration, it has a large courtyardsurrounded by summer and winterrooms and stalls, and is similar inconstruction to the caravanserais inSyria. What you see today are a largenumber of arches, walls and inscrip-tions. To get to the caravanserai, takethe road to Suruç at the entrance of


Bozova (Hewenge/Hüvek)

A local girl (20)

Bozova; the caravanserai is located inthe middle of the village beside themain road.

Titrifl Caravanserai

The caravanserai in Titrifl village isthought to have been built in theOttoman era, in the 15th or 16thcenturies. Some parts of the buildingare now clad in concrete and used asshops, but the main building stillpreserves something of its originalappearance. Caravans heading forBirecik used to stop at the Ilgar (Mîrbi)Caravansary within the boundaries ofthe present district and then continueto Çarmelik Caravansary. Havingreached Çarmelik, caravans eithercontinued north for eventuallyreaching Siverek and Diyarbak›r viaBozova (Hüvek) and Titrifl Caravansaryor turned south to reach Baghdadthrough Urfa, Harran and Hanel-Ba’rür Caravansary.

Water sports

Around 24km from Bozova town,Devlet Su ‹flleri (DS‹) Misafirhanesi is

a state-run guest house and sportcentre (0414 721 21 06,www.bozova.gov.tr) on the AtatürkDam, offering all kinds of water sportsas well as swimming classes and thechance to sail and dive. There is a day-time snack bar and a restaurant whichserves alcohol in a pleasant garden.

fianl›urfa/Bozova 79

Water sport (21)

Swimming (22)

Worth considering fora weekend break,Halfeti (population10,238) is locatedalong the EuphratesRiver on a steephillside, 105km fromUrfa. The first knownname for Halfeti wasEkamia. Later on itwas named Kale-iZerrin, Urumgala andRumkale, acquiringits present nameduring the republicanera, when it became adistrict of Urfa.

This ancient town was a centre forChristianity and once a way station onthe main Silk Road. Thanks to anumber of historical attractions,including a citadel, it is sometimesused as a location for filming. Thetown is also known for its swathes ofso-called black roses, which growonly in the locality. The blooms are

very dark in the springand autumn, changingto a claret shade inthe summer. It issometimes said theroses are black inmourning for thetown’s moreprosperous past.

The construction ofthe Birecik Damcaused Halfeti to becut into two, with 150houses in the middlebeing submerged in2000. New settlements

were built higher up in the villages ofKaramezre, 7km to the south of theold town, but locals had difficultyadapting to their surroundings, wherethe land was much less fertile thantheir old plots. Old Halfeti, with itshalf-drowned settlements, Armenianstonework and minaret which has ablue charm against the evil eye, isworth a look, and includes some old


Halfeti (Xelfetî)

A view from Halfeti (23)

Minaret partly under water (24)

stone mansions, the Kanneci, HamdiBey and Hamaml› Houses. One oldhouse you will not see in Halfeti is themansion of Feyzullah Bey, a 14-roomaffair built by one of the town’snotables. The house was moved pieceby piece to the Osman Bey Campus ofthe University of Harran, 18km fromUrfa towards Mardin.

Rumkale (Kale-i Zerrin)

Located on a hill overlooking theEuphrates and the main highway, thiscitadel dates roughly from the lateHittite period, around 900–850 BC,though the present name actuallymeans “Roman fortress”. It is amassive structure with two mainentrances in the east and west, andseven towers in the east and northwalls. The western entrance isreached via a bridge spanning theMenzimen River, while the easternone is reached from the Euphrates viaa twenty-minute boat ride fromHalfeti (bookings on 0414 751 50 03).

It is said that John, one of Christ’sapostles, may have made copies ofthe Bible here, which were later takensecretly to Beirut. In 1147 the widowof the last Count of Edessa sold thefortress to the Armenian PatriarchGregorius III. He moved the head-quarters of the patriarchate here,after which it remained a majorcentre for Christianity for 150 years.

fianl›urfa/Halfeti 81

A view from Halfeti (26)

Rumkale (Kale-i Zerrin) (25)

Halfeti is shaped like a bowl on the steep hillsides sloping down to theEuphrates, and the houses and streets have been carefully planned tosuit the topography. Halfeti’s flat-roofed stone houses are built parallelto the Euphrates and often have bay windows from which residents cansit and watch the river flow by. Most of the houses are two storeys tall,although some also have a partial basement used a stable, larder, pantryor storage area. The houses are usually entered by a garden gate. Theground floors of the larger houses are reserved for servants’ quartersand guestrooms. The area boasts many stone quarries; as a result, mostHalfeti buildings are constructed from natural stone and “Ba¤dadi”mortar. The masonry and structure of the houses is characteristic ofsoutheastern Anatolia and Mesopotamia.

Halfeti Houses

In the north part of Rumkale is theSaint Nerses Church, built in 1173and named for the Patriarch Nerses.The Ottomans converted it to amosque in the 17th century.

There are subterranean stairs in thefortress going down to a reservoir,which is consid-ered to be thequickest way toreach theEuphrates.According tolegend, the lord ofRumkale, SaintNerses, had a son

called Nergis who often went down tothe well to look at his reflection in thewater. One day, he lost his balancewhile doing so and toppled into thewater and was drowned. It is said thata very beautiful flower sprang upwhere he drowned.

Savaflan (Belesor)

This village is located onthe far side of the riverfrom the town. Half thevillage was submergedin 2000 and thecultivable land hasbeen lost, but still


Halfeti houses (27)

Cross signs from Savaflan (Belesor) cave church (28)

fianl›urfa/Halfeti 83

there are some old people resistantto vacating their homes despite thefact that the young have abandonedthe village, some for big cities andsome for the new village. The olderfolk believe that moving from theirancestral lands will cut their linkswith their roots, which will lead themto some other disaster. The village

was recently used as a backdrop in aTurkish horror movie.

Opposite the village there are theremains of a cave church. The sight ofthe ruins, with its stonework andcross still surviving, is as dramatic asthe village itself. Boat tours fromHalfeti to Rumkale will bringyou here.

You can stay at thefielaleli Guest House(0414 751 55 00) or themunicipality’s guest-house (0535 849 81 72).It is possible to stay inan old Halfeti house (tobook, call 0414 751 0033 or the municipalityon 0414 751 10 10).

Accommodation

A view from Savaflan (Belesor) Village (29)

A Halfeti restaurant by the river (30)


Birecik town (population 46,304), 76kmsouthwest of fianl›urfa, is well knownto archaeologists because it is theplace where the first Paleolithicartefact was found in 1894. Since then,the region has been widely exploredand traces of Paleolithic settlementshave been found all throughAsia Minor.

The Euphrates is convenient for theriver transport from Birecik south-wards, and thus this was something ofa transhipment point. In the 16thcentury there was a shipyard here, butBirecik lost some of its importance

with the advent of rail. After theconstruction of the 720m-long BirecikBridge in 1956, the city became amajor crossing point over theEuphrates once again.

Birecik is known for its ibises(kelaynak), which migrate there inmid-February and leave forMadagascar and Ethiopia in June. Inthe 1960s some 1000 pairs of ibiseswere migrating to Birecik, but they arenow endangered and are protectedwithin an area around Birecik.

The area is also known for the pro-duction of hemp (kendircilik), whichgrows by the banks of the Euphratesand is used for rope-making, thoughthese days a diminishing number ofcraftsmen pursue this trade.

The city centre is surrounded bybeautiful city walls dating back to 1483and the Mamluke era. Between 30mand 40m tall, the walls originally hadfour gates. The beautiful Urfa Gate(Urfa Kap›) still stands.

Centrally located on the southern sideof the Euphrates is the Beyaz Kale

Birecik (Bêrecûg)

A view from Birecik castle (31)

Bald ‹bises(32)

fianl›urfa/Birecik 85

(“white fortress”), which derives itsname from the fact that it is built ontop of a white limestone hill. Thepresent version probably dates fromthe 13th century; though there wereearlier incarnations under the Franksin the preceding century and all theway back in the Roman era.

In the city centre between ‹nönü Cad

and Belediye Cad is the HürriyetKahvesi ve Oteli, located in themunicipal cultural centre. Formerlythe city hall, it was built at the start ofthe last century and survives as abeautiful example of Ottomanarchitecture. Part of it is now a publiclibrary.

The remaining attraction, though not inBirecik but in the village of M›rbi (Ilgar)35km northeast, is a ruinedcaravanserai, built during the Ottomanperiod as a way station betweenDiyarbak›r and Urfa. At the start of thelast century, one Hartavizâde EminA¤a built a second storey on top of thecaravanserai so that he could use it asa personal residence.

Kule Mosque

This mosque by city walls and adjacentto Urfa Gate is believed to beconstructed by Mamluk SultanKay›tbay in 1482. The mosque has aneast-to-west rectangular plan with alarge cross vault at the centre. AlaburçMosque (from the Mamluk era) is tothe southwest of walls surroundingBirecik, inside Alaburç at the locationcalled Meydan Kap›s›.

The Gülbaba is cen-trally located onKalealt› Cad (0414652 48 22) andserves kebabs andlocal food. Out onthe Gaziantep–Urfaroad, the K›y›Restaurant (0414661 17 18) servessimilar fare as wellas excellent fish.Arriving from Urfa, turn onto the dirt track next to theMirkelam Tesisleri ( 0 414 661 05 03), just before youreach Birecik Bridge, and you will find the restaurant600m ahead in a leafy area.

The MirkelamTesisleri is asmall andpleasant hotelon theGaziantep–Urfahighway (0414661 05 00).There is also anö¤retmenevi(teachers’guesthouse;0414 652 26 73).


Urfa gate (33)

Street life (34)

The agricultural town of Hilvan (popu-lation 22,181) is 56km north of Urfaand derives its name from the blackstone, called curun or curn (refl means“black”), characteristic of the regionand used in the ancient times forthreshing wheat (this method is still inuse in some of the villages in the

region). During the Ottoman era, it wasinhabited by some nomadic tribes andhad the name Karacurun (kara alsomeans “black”). In 1926, it became adistrict of Urfa and acquired itspresent name.

The district includes Nevala Çori(Newala Çorî), an archaeological site inthe village of Kantara (Qentaran) onthe right bank of the Euphrates, nextto the Kantara River. The site isbelieved to have been inhabited sincethe Neolithic period, and excavationshave revealed the presence of humanand animal figures dating back to 9000BC. Along with Halan Çem (near Silvanin Diyarbak›r) and Qotê ber Çem (atErgani near Diyarbak›r), Newala Çori isthought to have been one of the sitesin northern Mesopotamia where wildwheat and barley were first cultivatedand animals were domesticated.It is also said that humans built theirfirst shelters in this area withsundried brick.


Hilvan (Curnê Refl)

A local from Hilvan (35)

Pistachio trees (36)

In the last 25 years, new excavationshere have shed light on the ancientsocieties of the region. Excavationsbetween 1983 and 1991 showed thatthere were Neolithic, Chalcolithicand Bronze Age settlements, andone of the world’s oldest places ofworship, possibly dating to 7200 BC,is thought to have been identified.There were also many human facescarved in stone probably represent-ing divinities, and places for stor-age, indicating that a period whenthe humans were in transition fromnomadism to a more settledexistence.

Tribal relations in the area are stillstrong and traditions and culturereflect this. Large tracts of landhereabouts belong to local lords,the a¤a. Land reform programmesdating from the 1970s have so farfailed to redistribute land to tenantfarmers and now appear to havebeen shelved.

fianl›urfa/Hilvan 87

Playing Arbane (Daf) (37)

Handmade home design (38)

With a population of 108,094, Siverek,95km northeast of fianl›urfa, wasbriefly a province in the 1920s butthanks to local rivalries, it wasdowngraded to become part of Urfa.Even today, however, people here stillappear to have aspirations of creatinga province for themselves, and civicorganisations are active in promotinga distinctive agenda.

Siverek town is a place wheretraditions are still very much alive andpeople usually marry within theirafliret (clan). The inhabitants aremainly Kurds, with small minorities ofTurks and Arabs. In terms oftraditions and social relations, peoplehere are more like Diyarbak›r folkthan people from Urfa. Kuyu quarter isa good area in which to observepeople in traditional dress.

As an indication of the complexities oflocal clan politics, the influentialBucak Clan has had members who

have benefited from the patronage ofthe state (and indeed havecollaborated with it to combat Kurdishaspirations since the 1920s) whileinterestingly other members aresupporters of Kurdish rights such as


Siverek (Girê Sor)Y›lmaz Güney (39)

Ulu Cami (40)

fianl›urfa/Siverek 89

the now deceased Faik Bucak, whoonce established a dormitory in‹stanbul for Kurdish students andwent into exile in 1961 due to hisinvolvement in Kurdish nationalistpolitics. He was assassinated fiveyears later.

Ulu Cami, Hüseyin Çeribafl› Camiiand Gülabibey Camii

The town centre has three noteworthymosques, all in the Güney quarter.The beautiful Ulu Cami was convertedfrom a church to a mosque in 982,sundial in the middle of the courtyardcannot be missed, and you should alsonote the large and beautiful stonedoor with the words Allah andMuhammad beautifully carved, whilethe Hüseyin Çeribafl› Mosque has animpressively carved wooden door.Nearby is the Gülabibey Mosque,named after the Seljuk governor whobuilt it in 1211.

Historic architecture

In the Camikebir and Hasan ÇelebiNeighborhoods, you will see Armenianhouses built of the beautiful blackstone for which the area is known(according to some sources, the nameof the town comes from the Armenianfor “black stone”). Three cara-vanserais, namely Gümrük Han, Hac›Yusuf Han and Kirazlar Han, offergood examples of 18th-century Ottoman archi-tecture.

Karacada¤ and Siverek Kalesi

To the east of the centre is the extinctvolcano of Karacada¤ (Qerejdax),which features in traditional songsand is a peak to which shepherdsbring their flocks in summer.Unusually the mountain is also one ofthe few sites in Turkey where rice iscultivated.

Located in the town centre at Kalequarter, is an Assyrian-era fortresswhich now a municipal-run teagarden, also used for weddings andconcerts. It was last renovated by theByzantine Emperor Constantin II, whonot only strengthened it to improvethe defence of nearby Diyarbak›r butalso made it one of the most beautifulfortresses in Mesopotamia. The ruinsstill stand 30m tall in places, andbelow are recently discovered struc-tures, found when land was beingexcavated for new housing. In particu-

lar, you can visit the subter-ranean Abdala¤a Hamam

linked to the castle; itis believed that thehamam was built forroyalty, who used toreach it through asecret stairway. Itis a good exampleof Ottomanarchitecturethough now ina ruinousstate.

Houses in Hasan Çelebi quarter (41)

Local girls from Karacada¤ in Kurdish outfit (42)


Pafla Kona¤›

Formally called Cudi Pafla Han›, thisplace is now referred to as PaflaKona¤› after the restaurant here. TheHan is centrally located just oppositeof the library (Siverek ‹lçeKütüphanesi) and also includes a café.In the back is a large courtyard whichhas a stage for cultural performances.

Karacada¤ Ski Resort

This ski resort is 43km from Siverekand is open for four months a year,starting from November. There is acafé but no accommodation.

Try the belediye tourist office for moreinformation (0414 552 12 00).

Shepherd and his sheep (43)

The Pafla Kona¤› Restaurant is based in an oldbeautiful house in Güney Mahallesi, Emniyet yan›(next to Emniyet-Police) (0414 552 22 70).

Hotels include theKarahan Turizm,‹nönü Bulvar› (0414552 09 46), MercanPalas, Hürriyet Cad(0414 552 12 36) andFeran Palas, also onHürriyet Cad(0414 552 11 45).


Pafla Kona¤› (44)

Siverek has spawned severalprominent Kurdish figures,including Y›lmaz Güney, theactor and film-maker. He won thePalme d’Or in Cannes in 1982 forhis movie Yol, depicting thejourney from ‹stanbul to the south-east of a group of prisoners giventemporary release. After spendingsome years of his life in exile inParis, he died there in 1984 at theage of 47. Another well-knownlocal Kurdish figure from the litera-ture is the writer Mehmed Uzun,born in Siverek in 1953. He startedto write aged 16, beginning withpoetry, though he is now mainlyknown as a novelist with bookssuch best, Bîra Qederê and RonîMîna Evîne and Tarî Mîna Mirinê,arrested once in Diyarbak›r beforehe went to Ankara to attenduniversity. He was arrested forwriting Kurdish poetry as well asarticles and sentenced to eightyears’ imprisonment, though heonly served two. After his releasehe joined a Kurdish magazine, butthis landed him in jail againbecause of the then forbiddenstatus of the Kurdish language.Eventually he was exiled to Sweden,though he returned to Turkey afterbeing diagnosed with cancer in2006. Most of his life he was advo-cating for more united front withinthe Kurdish politics. He died inDiyarbak›r the following year.

Another great Kurdish artisticfigure, the musician and poetfiivan Perwer, was born ‹smailAygün here in 1955. Exiled toGermany since 1976, this singerand performer on the Saz (lute) isa musical ambassador for hispeople. Though banned in Turkeyfor many years, his recordingswere always in circulation there,and he is regarded as one of themajor dengbêj, or bards, perform-ing in a style that combines oralhistory with music. A particularlywell-known song of his:

Some prominent people from Siverek

Canê Canê / Darling, darling

Canê, canê, canê / Darling, darling, darling Were meydanê / To the meadow let’s be runningDilê min pir xwefle / How my heart is singingBi vê dîlanê, bi vê dîlanê / n this dance, in this dance

Dîlane florefle / All of us are fired by Herkes pê serxwefle/ Dance of rebellion Erd û ezman flên bûn/ Heaven and earth rejoicing Bi vê dîlanê, bi vê dîlanê / In this dance, in this dance

Canê, canê, canê… / Darling, darling, darling…

Keç û jin û pîr tev / Girls and boy salike, nowRabûn tev dest dan hev / Take each other’s hands, nowXort û mêr hstin b’rev / Friends and comrades, run nowJi bo dîlanê, ji bo dîlanê/ To this dance, to this dance

Canê, canê, canê… / Darling, darling, darling….

Dîlan gellek xwefl bû / Oh, how fine our dance is!Dilê dostan gefl bû / How our hearts are beating!Dilê dijmin refl bû / Enemy hearts are smartingBi vê dîlanê, bi vê dîlanêThanks to this dance, thanks to this danceCanê, canê, canê…/ Darling, darling, darling…

Meh

med

Uzu

n(4

5)

fiivan Perwer (46)

91

East of Urfa, Viranflehir (population100,929) was destroyed so many timesin history that it took the name viran,meaning “ruined”. The area benefitsfrom cross-border trade, beingon the road to Nusaybinon the Syrian border(with Iraq not faraway either-159km)and just a little tothe north ofCeylanp›nar, also onthe Syrian border. Thesurrounding area is animportant grain producer withinTurkey and is also known for its redlentils (k›rm›z› mercimek) and a typeof vegetable (look like melon) calledflelengo. The terrain around is dottedwith some 40 höyük, small moundsindicating the presence of a settlementdating back to the Neolithic Era. Someof them have been excavated andceramics and remnants of walls found.

Viranflehir weddings, as elsewhere inthe region, can sometimes go on forthree days and nights in a row, withmen and women dancing hand in hand

in extended long halay (folkdances, in Kurdish dilan).

The ceremony takes place inhomes or wedding halls and

some times big tents where peopleare welcomed by high-rankedmembers of the afliret (clan).Also see p: 520

With regional instability, the town hasseen its population grow in recentyears. The inhabitants include smallminority of Syrian Orthodox and Arabsand majority Kurds, differentiated fromeach other by small variations in theirtraditional clothing, sometimes imper-ceptible to the untrained eye. Thereare also some ten Yezidi villages,although there are more uninhabitedones. In the village of Burç (Birc),


Viranflehir (Wêranflar)

Historical remains from Viranflehir (47)

Local wedding (48)

Kurdish wedding (49)

there is an anonymous tomb veneratedby the Yezidi community. Small groupsof Mirtib-Roma- locally called Qaraçi,settle in the Viranflehir in summer.They earn their living frommusic while other localgroup of Roma,devote themselvesto crafts.

Viranflehir Kaleand City Walls

The City Walls werebuilt by the son ofByzantine EmperorConstantine and are 2800mlong (second inlength toDiyarbak›r’s) and15m high, with 24watchtowers to the east and south and23 towers to the north side and fourgates (Urfa, Harran, Diyarbak›r andBa¤dat). Nowadays most of the kaleand the walls are in a poor state anddeserve proper restoration. Theremains of the city walls has beenprotected by the municipality ofViranflehir. The area is called Antînby locals.

The Martryrium(Martyrium) (Dikmen)

In the central Gölbafl› quarter part oftown you will find the martyrium. Theywere used to be built on basalt stonewith a dome and had an octagonalplan. This is one of the biggestByzantine Christian constructions,possibly dating from the 4th or 5thcenturies, and might be the tomb ofMor Yakub, who also gave his name toone of the Syrian Orthodox monaster-ies in Mardin. Pictures taken by theBritish archaeologist Gertrude Bell atthe start of the last century show themartyrium in good shape, but today itis mostly in ruins, with only one of theeight original pillars still standing.Remnants of mosaics found here

indicate that the building was oncerichly decorated. Nowadays the hasbeen converted into a park.

‹brahim Pafla Konak(Kona¤›)

Also in Gölbafl›, thishouse was con-structed in 1893 bythe powerful‹brahim Pafla yêMilî, a Kurdish clan

chief of theHamidiye. In 1891,

Sultan Abdul Hamit(Abdülhamit) decided to

form an irregularforce to keep thetribes under controland ward off the

Russians in Eastern Anatolia, withwhom some of the tribes sympathised.Members of the Hamidiye, as the forcewas called, were mainly selected fromKurdish horsemen and the command-ing officer was a tribal chief whoreceived military training in Istanbul.When the Hamidiye were not providedenough money from the centralgovernment, they were authorized tocollect taxes from communities suchas the Alevis and the Armenians. Whenthe Young Turks took over they

fianl›urfa/Viranflehir 93

Details of city walls (50/51)

The martryrium (52)

changed the name from Hamidiye toAfliret, but the force’s role remainedunchanged. The house, now used as alibrary, is built of black basalt andyellow limestone. There are eightrooms, with a large hall in the middle;note the beautifully carved exteriors ofthe window frames. The house ismanaged by the Ministry of Cultureand Tourism and open daily from8am to 5pm.

Traditional houses

Similar to those of Urfa, houses herehave a lounge (diwan) which has oneroom at each side, screened off fromthe tribal meetings which would beheld in the lounge. There are still

many centrally located houses in thistraditional style, including the Kayalar,Takdirler and ‹brahim Pafla Houses, allbuilt up of basalt and lime stones.There are Greek tablets more or lesson all their walls or doors. Thecertainly worth to visit, the KayalarHouse was recently restored by themunicipality and due to be used as acultural house. The house has a largeground level hall and a number ofhalls at the first and second floors.The house has a large courtyard withfountain located in the middle.

Yolbilen (Haftemal)

This Arab village just 2km south ofViranflehir is home to a SyrianChristian tomb, 12m long and 3.5mwide. It is decorated with a largemosaic, not restored, depictinganimals (some villagers have similarmosaics in their houses) and aneight-line Syriac inscription reading“This tomb was constructed in 873,during the reign of fiem, by the monksHelpidius and Yuhannun living in thismonastery”. The monastery inquestion, named Aziz Sergius orfiemnu, of which this is a relic, is


‹brahim Pafla Konak (53)

Kayalar house (54)

thought to have been substantial. Toreach the village, take left at the end oftown on the road to Urfa. The village isdivided into three parts, with themiddle part being where the tomb islocated.

K›zlar Saray›

This “Girls’ Palace”,as the nametranslates, is inthe village ofBinekli (Kerik)some 28km southof Viranflehir. Thepalace is believed tohave been built in thefourth century and was animportant centre for Syrian Christians.Numerous inscriptions in Syriac andwall paintings can be seen here aswell as in people’s homes, materials

from the palace having been re-usedby the locals. There is also a subter-ranean bazaar under the palace, withits own ventilation system. Villagersnow use parts of the palace to keep

livestock or for storage.

Çemdin Kalesi(Keleha Çimdîn)

This castle, around27km southeast ofViranflehir in thevillage of Eski Kale(Çimdîn), was built

during the Ayyubidperiod and once had 12

towers and two watchtowers.Beyond the western entrance of

the castle, many large caves can beseen. According to the inscription inthe fortress it has been built in 1899 bySaadeddin Muhammed. The fortresshas been surrounded with defensivecanals made of natural rock.

The head of the village (muhtar), Hac›Mustafa, is addicted to m›rra (tehl inKurdish), a traditional bitter coffeewhich he believes to have beneficialproperties. Visitors will be invited tosample the coffee, but it is said that


K›zlar Saray› (57)

Inscription from K›zlar Saray› (56)

Mosaic from Yolbilen Village(55)

you should not leave thecup on the floor or onthe table, which canbe interpreted as asign of disrespect.Instead, give itback to theperson whoserved you. If youdo cause offence, itis said you will have nochoice but to marrysomeone designated by your host or tofill the empty cup with gold.

Akkese (Hanefifl) Church

Once was a rock grave date back fromRoman era and it is said to have beenconverted into a church. This church,carved out of the rock, is situated20km southwest of Viranflehir in thevillage of K›rl›k (Gawir Horî). It isthought to have been built during the2nd century as a secret place ofworship, entered through a hole 2mfrom the ground.

Once you go in, you still have to walksome 2m stooping before you can

access the church. Bas-reliefs ofpeacocks can be seen on the

walls of the cave as wellas a big cross on thedomed roof. From theoutside, you can onlysee the two entranceholes and the windows.

There is nothing aroundto indicate the church, so

you will have to ask a local toguide you to it.

The Tomb of Eyüp

In the village of Eyüp Nebi (Caffer),15km northwest of Viranflehir, are


Çemdin Kalesi (58)

M›rra (59)

Akkese (Hanefifl) Church (60)


tombs said to be that of Eyüp (Job), hiswife Rahime Hatun and Elyesa(Elisha), which is mainly visited bypilgrims going to Mecca by road andlarge number of locals. To the north ofthe tome is the Sab›r Tafl› (ordealstone) that represents the patient whatthe Prophet Eyyub was famous for.Further down you will see flifal› su,water that is supposed to cureailments. To the west of the water isthe tomb of Elyesa. Rahime HatunTomb is located some 100 metersaway from the ziyaret complex. Thetomb is composed of one single roomcovered with a white dome.

As the site receives large number ofpilgrims daily, therefore it has beenlooked after and kept clean to thehighest standard.

Eyüp

Pey

gam

ber

Tom

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1)

Eyüp Peygamber Tomb (62)

There is a decent hotel in Viranflehir,the Yükselen on Mardin Yolu (0414 51179 24, www.yukselhanhotel.com). Youcan also find accommodation in theö¤retmenevi (teachers’ guesthouse;0414 511 31 89).

Accommodation

Cooking pastry in Viranflehir street (63)

The town of Akçakale (population26,877), also known as Tell Ebyad, issouth of Urfa on the border with Syria.The town’s fortunes should receive aboost from a recent decision toallow it to be used as a conduit forcross-border trade between Turkeyand Syria. To cross the border here(daily 8am to 5pm), head for the end ofFevzi Çakmak quarter.

The Cudi Valley, 20km north ofAkçakale, has a topography thatmakes its hills look like waves ina green sea. With ruins of tombs,hamams and towers visible on someareas, it is possible to see.

Just across the border is an oasis, Aynel-Arus (“spring of the marriage”),much visited by locals. This is whereAbraham is said to have rested whiletravelling to Damascus, and where hewas married to Sarah.

Different goods from Syria can beeasily found in the town market, whilethere it might be a good idea for quickshopping.


Akçakale (Tilebyad)

A view from Akçakale Bazaar (64)

Border Bazaar (65)

Local transport (66)

One of the highlights of the province isthe remarkable town of Harran (popu-lation 9,866), famous for its beehive-shaped houses and probably one of themost ancient settlements in the world.The town, 44km from Urfa, is easilyaccessible by dolmufl. Most of theinhabitants are Arabs, who arebelieved to be the descendants ofsemi-nomadic pastoralists andfarmers who traditionally inhabitedthese plains. While visiting you may beapproached by groups of children whowill be determined to get some smallchange off you or sell you trinkets.

The beehive houses, about 1.5km fromthe new town, are not lived in anymore and are mostly used to keep thelivestock. The conical roofs, of whichthere can be up to six on an individualhouse, are made of kerpiç, a mix ofclay, straw and bricks. A hole at thetop allows sunlight in and aidsventilation. The houses were mostlybuilt 150–200 years ago from brickscollected from ruins.

After the beehive houses became partof an archaeologically protected area,the municipality bought and restored afew of them. An example of such oldhouses is the Harran Kültür Evi (0414441 2477), a museum and gift shop andwith some accommodation for tourists.The owner of the house speaks severallanguages.

Harran Kalesi

Harran is surrounded by walls whichhad six gates, only one of whichsurvives (Halep Gate). In the southeastof the walls is an inner gate leading toa three-storey structure that was used

fianl›urfa/Akçakale/Harran 99

Harran (Xarran/Heran)Ancient Harran University (67)

Harran traditional houses (68)

as a palace. It was restored in 1059 byMeni bin fiebib and again in 1192 bythe Ayyubid Melik el-Adil. The fortresslocated in the middle of the village.

Harran höyük (Höyü¤ü) andHarran University

The settlement, in the northwest of thetown, appears to have been continu-ously inhabited from before the time ofChrist until the 13th century.Excavations on the mound began in1951, and some of the artefactsrecovered are now exhibited in theMuseum of Urfa.

On the northeastern side of the höyükare the remains of the Ulu Cami, builtby the Umayyad Caliph Marwan II inthe 8th century and said to be theoldest surviving example of Islamic

architecture in Turkey. It was con-structed on or close to the site of whathad been a Sabian moon temple (seealso So¤matar, p: 102), some of whosestones were recycled in the building ofthe mosque. One of these stones,depicting the last king of Babylon wor-shipping heavenly bodies, is nowexhibited in the Museum of Urfa. Whenreused in the mosque, it was placedfacing the ground so worshipperswould not see the pagan image. Themosque itself was enlarged in the 12thcentury by Nureddin Mahmud Zengi,who added a fourth nave to the northand probably the ablutions pool in thecourtyard. In 1192 Saladin had theportal to the east of the mosque con-structed. These features and theminaret survive, but the mosque isotherwise in a ruinous state.

If you happen to be at the mound inspring, you may see the flowers ofPeganum Harmala (üzerlik/ spind inTurkish), a plant whose seeds havepsychotropic effects. The site is onewhere little girls from the surroundingvillages come to collect the flowers,which they dry for decoration and formaking talismans and sell to thetourists.


Harran Kalesi (69)

Ancient Harran University (70)

Harran is believed to have been aprominent educational centre from the8th to the 10th centuries, and the ruinsof the once-famous Arab universitycan be seen near the Ulu Cami.

Han El-Ba’Rur Caravanserai andthe Bazda Caves

Some 19km southeast of Harran in thevillage of Göktafl (Han elBa’rur) is the Han ElBa’Rur Caravanserai.Thought to have beenbuilt in 1228 by el-Hac HüsameddinAli bin ‹sa, it typi-fies the architec-ture of the Seljukperiod.

Some of the mostbeautiful and most

impressive caves in Anatolia are situ-ated on both sides of the road to thecaravanserai from Harran. Known asthe Bazda, Albazdu, Elbazde or Bozda¤Caves, they first appeared as quarryingtook place to build the surroundingtemples and caravanserai. The caveshave numerous galleries and tunnelswith ceilings up to 15m high. WithinArabic inscriptions dating back to the13th century and namingAbdurrahman el-Hakkâri, Muhammed‹bn-i Bak›r and Muhammed el-Uzzarcan be seen. It is a good idea to bring atorch to explore the caves.

fiuayb Ancient City

Another 23km from the caravanseraiis the ancient city of fiuayb, a largesettlement inhabited from Roman

times until the Mongol inva-sions. There are

hundreds of stonegraves at the site,

which issometimes knownas Özkent. Localtraditionassociates the site

with the Prophetfiuayib (Jethro),

Moses’ father-in-law.

fianl›urfa/Harran 101

Bazda caves (71)

fiuayb ancient city (72)

Han El Ba’Rur (73)

So¤matar (Eski Sumatar)

So¤matar, a collection of ruinedSabian temples, lies 55km fromHarran and 15km to the north offiuayib in the village of Ya¤murlu. Thesite probably dates back to the 2ndcentury or so and comprises ninecave-temples, each thought to bededicated to a particular astronomicaldeity and surrounding a centralmound. You will see the remains ofsculptures of humans, representinggods, on the hilltop ruins to the northside of the village where the temple ofthe Moon God Sin is thought to befound. There are also Syriacinscriptions, dating back to 165, onthis mound.

The Sabians worshipped the sun,moon and the planets Mercury, Venus,Mars, Jupiter and Saturn, so theycould be called polytheists, thoughsome researchers think they also wor-shipped a “higher” deity, which wouldmake their religion essentiallymonotheistic with the astronomicalbodies as “priests”. It is said that thesect acquired its name after a visit by

Caliph Abdullah al Ma’mun to Harran,where Sabians also lived. When hediscovered that they were not adher-ents of Judaism, Christianity or Islam,he announced that he could have themkilled but said he would let them live ifthey converted to one of these faithsbefore his next visit. Meanwhile aKoranic scholar advised them to startcalling themselves “Sabians”, after amonotheistic creed mentioned in theKoran. The caliph died before he couldreturn to Harran but it is thought thatthe sect changed its name as had beensuggested, though they carried withtheir old religious beliefs and rituals(said to include human sacrifice).


Tahir and his friends (74)

Helpful children of So¤matar (75)

fianl›urfa/Harran 103

Çaml›k (0542 727 20 55) serves traditionaland local dishes and also offers a varietyof alcoholic drinks. There is also musicand it is open till late. The restaurant islocated 2km from Harran in Tah›lalanarea, on the road to Urfa. Local fare is alsoserved at Harran Kültür Evi, which has livemusic and organises s›ra geceleri forlarge groups.

It’s possible to stay in one of thebeehive houses. At Harran KültürEvi in ‹bnitemiye Mahallesi (0414441 22 80 – 0542 337 85 12), youcan either sleep on a mattress onthe floor in one of the rooms or ina wooden bed (that) in the gardenor on the roof. Excellent localfood, live music and s›ra geceleriis available. Other choices areKubbeli Ev (0542 337 85 12) andHarran Evi (0414 441 20 20) in‹bniteymiye Mahallesi. In the towncentre itself, try the Bazda Hotel(0414 441 35 90,[email protected]).


Senema¤ar

These caves are close to the village ofBüyük Senem M›¤ar (Senema¤ar),11km on the north of So¤matar. Thesite is believed to have been animportant Christian centre, especiallyin the early years of the religion.A three-storey building on top of thehill in the village was probably amonastery or a palace. On the northof this worship place are churchesdug out of the rock.

Senema¤ar (76) So¤matar Cave (77)

Harran Kültür evi (78)


In the far southeast of the province,Ceylanp›nar (population 43,890) wascreated to house the workers whoconstructed the rail line connectingTurkey to Syria. Trains still run fromCeylanp›nar to Syria once a week(0414 471 40 75 for more information).

Historically the place was called RiflAyna. The current name dates from1923, with the proclamation of therepublic, though Ceylanp›nar also hasan Arabic name, Ayn al-Zuhur.According to legend, a king’s daughterof that name came one spring day to

Ceylanp›nar and liked the view somuch that she became a regularvisitor, and the place eventuallyacquired her name.

The town was divided into two whenthe border with Syria was demarcated.Since 1999, the border has been openat the end of Ramadan and at Bayramfor few days to allow people visitrelatives on the other side. Recently itwas decided that Ceylanp›nar willbecome a designated port of entry fortrade goods.

Interestingly Ceylanp›nar has smallUzbek and Afghan minority, whomhelped by the government and arrivedfrom Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan inthe 1950s and from Afghanistan in1986, fleeing conflict there. Wearingtheir traditional clothes, with highcheekbones and slanting eyes, theyare easily recognised and share spacein the bazaar with the locals. Some1800 Uzbeks from Afghanistan weregiven 215 houses 3km in Evrenpaflavillage (named after the general who

Ceylanp›nar (Serêkaniyê)Gazelles in Ceylanp›nar (79)

A gazelle in Tigem (80)

led Turkey’s military coup in 1980),where they still live today, drinkinggreen tea and cooking Afghan foodalong with basmati rice which areimported via Syria. Most of them lead apoor existence, trading leatherproducts that they bring from ‹stanbul.

Tigem

The region is home to the Ceylanp›narAgricultural Enterprise (T‹GEM), thelargest farm in Turkey, created in 1943(although far before that the farm wasused for similar reasons by the localKurdish pafla, (‹brahim Paflayê Milî) asa model agricultural establishment. Inparticular, it produces cotton,sunflowers, dairy products, generalfruits and vegetables and also rearslivestock. Ceylan means gazelle in

Turkish (Xezal in Kurdish) and this isthe only part of Turkey where you willfind gazelles, which are endangeredand are thus have protected statuswithin a particular zone in the area.

fianl›urfa/Ceylanp›nar 105

Try the Kepez Lokantas›, Cumhuriyet Cad (0414 47174 15), or fiafak, on the same street (0414 471 22 83).The restaurants serve different types of kebabs anddishes with rice.

You can stay at the Otelfiaabin, Cumhuriyet Cad(0414 471 49 46).


Afghan children from Ceylanp›nar (81)

Tigem farm (82)

Hana handed Afghan girl (83)

Folk dance (çayda ç›ra) (1)

Elaz›¤ was the site of a Hurriansettlement in around 2000 BC,and was later invaded by Hittitesand Urartians, coming underRoman influence between thefirst and third centuries. TheArabs occupied the region untilthe end of the tenth century,following which it fell underByzantine control for a whilebefore being regained by the Arabs.The Seljuks took over the regionfollowing the battle of Malazgirt(Manzigert) in 1071. The Artukids ofHarput and then Hasankeyf ruledhere briefly in the early 12th century,after which the Seljuks took controlagain. Subsequently the Mongols,Mamlukes, Akkoyunlus and Safavidscame and went, and then, like the rest

of the region, Elaz›¤ passed intoOttoman hands in 1516. During the lastyears of the Ottoman Empire the areawhich had a considerable Armenianpopulation, became the centre ofintense American Protestant mission-ary activity with the establishment of atheological seminary and high school,the Euphrates College in Harput,which functioned until World War I.

The local economy is mainly based onagriculture and some mining, in

Elaz›¤ 109


541.258 (2007)

Average altitude

1067m.Area9181 square kilometres

DistrictsElaz›¤, Alacakaya, Ar›cak, A¤›n,

Baskil, Karakoçan, Keban,

Kovanc›lar, Maden, Palu, Sivrice

EconomyAgriculture (especially wine

production), Livestock farming


Malatya (west), Erzincan (northwest),

Tunceli (north), Bingöl (east),

Diyarbak›r (southeast)

At aglance

A view form Elaz›¤ (2)

Old Elaz›¤ School (3)


particular extraction some valuablemarble stones, especially viniculture,for which Elaz›¤ serves as a marketcentre. The state-run vineyards ofElaz›¤ produce the well-known redBuzba¤. The Öküzgözü grape variety ofElaz›¤ is mentioned on the labels ofhigh-quality Turkish wines, forexample Kavakl›dere and Doluca,which are popular in Turkey. Industryin the region includes lead productionand some fishing around Keban andthe chromium mining factory inKovanc›lar.

Modern Elaz›¤ city is a good startingpoint to visit the Euphrates basin, andaffords good views of Ad›yaman MountNemrut. The ancient city of Harputnearby is famous for its fortress,though there are other interestingmonuments too, such as the Ulu Camiwith its slanting minaret and VirginMary Church in Harput. If you feel likebreathing some fresh air, you willenjoy a walk around the pretty HazarLake, 30km to the south and sur-rounded by smart villas and hotels, ortaking a drive to the HazarbabaMountain. Sivrice and Gezin townshave become popular with visitorsthanks to new infrastructure forpicnics and water sports, winter sportas well as camping around HazarLake. At Palu an Urartian fortressoffers views over the old town, whilethere is a good spa at Yo¤una¤aç

(Golan) in the Karakoçan district.There are some ruins left fromHulvenk Monastery which founded inthe 13th century in fiahinkaya(Bizmêflin) village some 6km from citycentre.

Elaz›¤ City Contemporary Elaz›¤ is an extension ofthe historic city of Harput. Under thereign of Mahmut II, the governor ReflidMehmed Pafla began to expand Mezreas the location of Harput was high andnot easy to reach, which lay on theplains a short distance from Harput.During the reign of Sultan Abdulaziz,military barracks, a hospital and amansion for the governor were built toaccommodate the seat of the newvilâyet (province). Mezre was namedMamûret’ül Azîz in 1867 on theoccasion of the fifth anniversary ofcrowning of Sultan Abdülaziz. The citybecame known as Elezîz simplybecause it was easier to pronounce,but after Mustafa Kemal decided torename the place once more, thegovernment settled on Elaz›¤.

The city has a population of 319,381,with a majority Kurds, and minority ofSyriac and some Turks, and hasa youthful feel thanks to the presenceof F›rat University, founded in 1975. InJune participants in the university’sQuality Öküzgözü grapes (4)

City centre (5)

Elaz›¤ is the hometown of FethiyeÇetin, the former spokeswomanof the Minorities Commission ofthe Istanbul Bar Association. Herpoignant memoirs are contained inthe book My Grandmother, thestory of her Armeniangrandmother who con-verted to Islam afterbeing sheltered bya Turkish family follow-ing the events of 1920swhich let to lose herown family. The bookwas a big success andhas been translated inEnglish and in French.Figures from the arts whooriginally hailed from Elaz›¤include Arif Susam, a popularmusician in the 1980s, and ErdalYaz›c›, a talented photo-journalistwho has had his pictures publishedin National Geographic. Othernatives of Elaz›¤ include theArmenian philosopher ShahanNatalie and the now deceasedarchitect Vedat Dalokay, whodesigned the head office of theIslamic Development Bank inJeddah. From the world music,Erkan O¤ur is known a pioneer offretless guitars; he invented thefirst fretless classical guitar in1976. He was born in 1954, inAnkara, Turkey but spent hischildhood in Elaz›¤, as composer,he has influenced many musicianswith his compositions combiningthe sounds of folk music, classicalmusic with the ancienttraditional music. He is regarded asa master of the kopuz andba¤lama lutes. Lastly Dr.

Nûredîn Zaza (Nûredîn Ûsiv/Zaza)the Kurdish short story writer,Nûredîn Zaza, was born in Maden,in 1919. In his youth he went toSyria, once there he met and

worked with some importantKurdish intellectuals. His firstwritings were published in Hawar,the first Kurdish magazine pub-lished by Celadet Alî Bedirxan in1932 and Ronahî (See p:474 ).

At the end of the 2ndWorld War, he went toSweden and studiedPedagogy at LausanneUniversity. For his PhDthesis he compiled aresearch on the Frenchphilosopher EmanuelMonnier. On his returnto Syria and involving inpolitics he was arrested

in Syria but also in Iraq, Jordan andLebanon. After his last release in1969, he went to Sweden andcontinued his writings about thesituation of Kurds and especiallyhis mother tongue, Kurdish.Nûredîn Zaza was one of theinstallers of the Kurdish Institute inFrance (http://www.institutkurde.org/en/). He left behind largenumber of books wrote in Kurdishand French such as his mostknown book written in French,Ma Vîe Kurde (My Kurdish Life).He translated the famous EhmedêXanî’s Mem û Zîn story intoFrench. Dr. Nûredîn Zaza passedaway in 1988 after a long battlewith cancer, he was buried atLausanne.

Some prominent people from Elaz›¤

Book cover (6)

Nûr

edîn

Zaz

a B

ook

cove

r(7

)

111

Apart fromthe regularbus services,airlines oper-ate flights toElaz›¤ fromAnkara andIstanbul.There arealso dailytrain serviceto Istanbulcan be foundin Elaz›¤ city.


folklore festival arrive by the hundreds.The vibrant and lively Kapal› Bazaar inthe centre of the city is surely worthshopping and visiting.

A traditional Elaz›¤ dance known asçayda ç›ra always begins in darkness,with the dancers holding little platesbearing lit candles. Some people inElaz›¤ believe that the roots of thisdance lie in a tragic love story involvingtwo young people living south of thetown, close to Hazar Lake. They usedto meet secretly in the evenings, theyoung man swimming across the laketo the meeting place. The girl wouldsignal her position with lighted kin-dling (ç›ra). The girl’s father came tolearn about these assignations andextinguished the kindling, as a resultof which the young man drowned inthe lake. As soon as she heard of his

death, the desperate girl committedsuicide by jumping into the water.

Elaz›¤ is a relaxed base from which tovisit the historical attractions ofHarput, which is the highlight of theprovince. One of the few attractions intown itself is the Archaeology andEthnography Museum (9am–5pm) onthe campus of F›rat University. Onesection exhibits historical artefactsfound during the construction of Kebanand Karakaya Dams, while the othersection showcases ethnographic workslike handmade carpets, kilims, etc.While in Elaz›¤, you can also easily getout into the countryside by catching adolmufl to the Sefkar Baba Forest,northeast of town.

Getting there Accommodation Places to eat

A four-star hotelwith a niceswimming pool isthe Akgün Elaz›¤,KorgeneralHulusi Sayin Cad(0424 248 20 00,www.akgunelazighotel.com). Analternative is theAkar Otel, BalakGazi Cad (0424218 34 89).

Like Urfa, Elaz›¤ is well known forçi¤köfte, a specialty made with rawmeat and spices. You can try it atEyvan or at fiiflko’nun Yeri. Kilis, Alt›nfiifl, Havuzbafl›, fielale and Polatlar arerecommended for kebabs also inHarput try kebabs in Halit Usta, forHarput Soup, a specialty made withchickpeas and meat. There are also many places en routefrom town to Diyarbak›r where you canhave fish from Hazar Lake, includingÇaml›k Restaurant, Mavi Göl and HarzoDay›. Keban Alabal›k Tesisleri andrestaurants in the Koçkale area arealso very popular places for fish.

Municipality: 0424 238 24 90 Tourist information: 0424 236 58 54

Çayda ç›ra in Elaz›¤ (8)

Elaz›¤’s main bazaar (9)

Harput (Xarpêt)

Harput houses (10)

Elaz›¤/Harput 113

Harput is only 3km from Elaz›¤ andaccessible by dolmufl or taxi. The towntakes its name from the majesticHarput kalesi (har means “rock” andput “castle” in Armenian), a reminderof the glorious past when this was aregional metropolis throughoutmedieval and Ottoman times. On yourway to the town you will see manyexamples of old Harput houses, someof which are planned for restoration,also can be found nearby, are somerestaurants with occasional live musicin the evening, and are good for viewsover the fortress.

Along with the ruins of the castle, thebuilding of most interest is the UluCami, founded around 1165. There arealso three Ottoman caravanserais andother monuments. The historicalsites are concentrated aroundYakup fievki Cad.

Harput Kalesi

The majestic citadel on a southeasternhilltop was built by the Urartians. It issometimes referred to as the Milk

Citadel (Süt Kalesi) because legendsays that the Urartians were so welloff that they coated the whole citadelin milk and mixed milk with thebuilding materials to reflect its status.The fortress has an inner keep and anouter keep, each of them restoredmany times during the course of histo-ry. During the recent excavations sometunnels and a water cistern fromUrartian era were found.

Virgin Mary (Meryem Ana)Church

South of the citadel and sharing onewall with it is the Virgin Mary Church(also referred to as the Red Church,the Assyrian Church or the JacobinChurch). One of the oldest Syriacchurches, it was probably a place ofpagan worship before becoming a

Harput house(11)


Harput Kalesi (12)

Christian place of wor-ship during the sixthcentury. Rectangularin plan, the churchwas reconstructed in179 and the portico wasrestored in 1845 accordingto records in Mardin, and wasit used by Assyrian Christians, distinctfrom the Armenians of Harput. Someof the walls are actually natural rockwalls, and the church is linked to thecitadel by secret passages.

Ulu Cami

The only mosque in Anatolia with aleaning minaret is on Nizamettin Cad.One of the oldest and most importantmosques in Anatolia, it was builtaround 1156 by the Artukid ruler ofHarput, Fahrettin Karaaslan. Theoriginal wooden minbar of this mosqueis now to be found in the KurflunluCamii (see below). Inscriptionsattribute the minbar to a son of Çubuk,at the end of the 11th or beginning ofthe 12th century. The mosque is large-ly of rubble stone, though the leaningminaret is made of brick and contains

some wonderful brickornamentation. A doorin the west wall whichleads to the interior ofthe mosque contains

the same style of brick.Inside of the mosque is an

integrated courtyard thatremained invisible from the outside.The vaulted naves around the

Ulu

Cam

i lea

ning

min

aret

(14)

Ulu Camii (13)

Elaz›¤/Harput 115

courtyard are 14th or 15th centuryrebuilding. The areas around theminaret as well as the prayer hall tothe south are probably the onlyremains of the 12th-century mosque.

A¤a Camii

Thought to have been built in 1559 byPervane A¤a, this mosque is in theeastern part of the city, at the end ofthe main road into Harput (Yakup fievkiCad). Its dome was in ruins but hasbeen restored and the mosque is stillused for worship.

Kurflunlu Camii andHoca Hasan Hamam

Don’t miss this beautiful Ottomanmosque, built in the 1730s, with itslead-covered dome. On Yakup fievki

Cad, it has a dome with four windowson top of the dome. The woodenminbar of the Ulu Cami, with beautifulinscriptions and vegetal designs, wasinstalled in this mosque in the 1960s.West of the castle you can see thedome of the Ottoman-era Hoca HasanHamam, built on a rectangular plan.The Hamam is in ruins.

Alacal› Camii

This small rectangular mosque in thesouthwest of town (turn right on Yakupfievki Cad before reaching A¤a Camii)is probably Ottoman and is worthseeing for its minaret, with alternatingblack and white bands. The minaretand the decorations on the ceiling datefrom a 19th-century restoration.

Arap Baba Tomb

At the end of Nadir Baba Cad in south-ern Harput is this tomb, probably fromthe Seljuk period. There is no reliableinformation on Arap Baba’s identity,but it is believed that he was alsoknown as Yusuf ‹bn-i Arapshah andthat he built the tomb for himself in1276. A legend says that after a year of

Arab Baba tomb (15)

Hasan Hoca Hamam (16)


drought, a woman dreamt that if ArapBaba’s head could be chopped off fromhis corpse and thrown in the river, therains would come. Without sayinga word to anyone, the woman dulyaccomplished this task, whereupon itrained continuously. Then the womandreamt that if Arap Baba’s head wasfound and replaced, the deluge wouldstop. The village elders recovered thehead and restored it to its owner’sbody, whereupon the rain ceased andthe weather returned to normal.

Saray Hatun Mosque, Cimflit BeyHamam and Mansur Baba’s Tomb

Constructed by the Akkoyunlu leaderHasan Bahad›r Khan’s mother in 1465,and since restored many times, theSarayhatun Mosque (it’s also known asSara Hatun) contains some beautifulexamples of handworked stone. Nextto the mosque and sharing a commonwall with it is the beautiful Cimflit BeyHamam, which has four domed roomsthat let daylight in. It was built duringthe 16th century by one of SultanSelim’s military commanders, CimflitBey. Nowadays part of the hamam hasbeen converted into an attractiverestaurant, though you don’t have toeat here to have a look at the formerbathing areas.

To the northwest of the mosque in thesame street, Nizamettin Cad, isMansur Baba’s Tomb, thought to bethe resting place of various Artukids.The original building, likely to be fromthe mid-13th century, was probably ontwo storeys, with an octagonal plan,but it was subsequently completelyrebuilt.

Harput Dabakhane Spa

In Dabakhane Cad 5km from Elaz›¤,this spa has three pools made ofmarble. Clear water, neither acid noralkaline, emerges at 50°C and ismeant to be good for stomach andliver ailments.

Harput Museum

The museum is opposite the oldmunicipality building and contains andinteresting collection of handicraftsand other local artefacts. Openbetween 8.30am and 5pm (closedMondays), it was opened in 1965 andwas something of a trailblazer forElaz›¤’s Archaeology and EthnographyMuseum (0424 241 11 30).

The

gate

to th

e C

emfli

t Bey

Ham

am(1

8)

Cimflit Bey Hamam› (17)

Elaz›¤/Keban 117

Keban with the population of 5,328,hosting one of biggest dams in Turkeyand generating nearly a tenth ofTurkey’s electricity is the Kebanregion, 45km to the west of Elaz›¤. Theruins discovered during the construc-tion of Keban Dam show that Kebanwas settled as far back as the tenthcentury. A Seljuk captain, Ça¤r› Bey,entered the area with his troops in1017, paving the way for furtherTurkish invasions. Keban was one ofthe provinces of Ottoman Empire until1834 when Harput was designateda province.

The hydroelectric power complex wascompleted in 1975, and itsconstruction required the evacuationof thirty thousand people from morethan 200 settlements. The lake, whichhas submerged several dozen archae-ological sites, is a popular picnic siteand for trout fishing and water sportsorganised by a local-government office(0424 571 20 01). You can eat here atÇurç›r Alabal›k Tesisleri, which spe-cialises in fish, (0424 571 23 23).

If you are invited to a wedding here-

abouts, you might join a simsimi halay,a folkloric dance usually performed atthe groom’s house and symbolisingunity, solidarity, heroism andforgiveness. Youths gather arounda circle placing one of their friends inthe middle, blindfolded and with handstied behind his back. He moves aroundwithin the circle trying to touch one ofhis friends, who will then replace him.

Yusuf Ziya Pafla’s Complex

In the town centre is a külliye (Islamicreligious complex) built in the 18thcentury by the governor of Diyarbak›r,Yusuf Ziya Pafla. These buildings,including a mosque, madrasah,fountain, library and mausoleum, wereonce a fine example of Ottomanarchitecture but only the entrance andsome walls are still standing.

Keban Dam (19)

Simsimi Halay› (folk dance) (20)

Keban


Denizli Caravanserai (Vak›f Han)

Built in the 13th century, this cara-vanserai is in the village of Denizli,8km from Keban. It includes a domedmosque, a courtyard pool, a hamamand guest quarters.

Armenian Church

The Hallar area of Keban, just oppositethe police station, has a dilapidatedArmenian church with a basilicalayout. Unusually, the remains offrescoes can still be seen. The churchis used by the municipality as repairingcentre for cars.

The Euphrates isthe western ofthe two greatrivers (the otherbeing the Tigris).Euphrates River islonger then Tigris,approximately2,781km long. Itsformed by theunion of twobranches, theKarasu risesnortheast ofErzurum also inthe Kargapazar›Mountains andthe Murat whichrises from north-east of Lake Van,

about midway between Lake Van and Mount Ararat. The riverflows through steep canyons and gorges, southeast across Syria,and finally through Iraq in the Persian Gulf.

Tigris joins with the Euphrates, and for the remaining 170 km tothe outlet at the Persian Gulf, known as Shatt El Arab. (See forTigris p: 239)

The two great rivers of Mesopotamia

Euphrates River (21)

Apples (22)

A¤›n (Axîn)

Elaz›¤/A¤›n 119

Famous A¤›n chickpeas (23)

Some 80km northwest of Elaz›¤ on theKeban Dam Lake is the small town ofA¤›n with population of 1.824, linked byday to Elaz›¤ and Malatya by a ferry onthe Arapkir River. Half the residentsare retired, and the town is also distin-guished by having an unusually highliteracy rate. Plenty of officials,writers, academics and poets hail fromhere, a fact of which locals are proudof this fact; they like to claim thatElaz›¤ is administered from A¤›n.

A cooperative of fishing families makesa living off the lake. The town was alsoonce reputed for its chickpeas and itsÖküzgözü, a Turkish grape variety, andthe wine made from it, but is now try-ing to promote tourism.

The local cuisine is excellent, withspecialities such as kaburga kebab›,yemlikli yemek. The local chickpeasderive their special flavour supposedly

by cooking them with some very thinkind of sand from the village ofBademli.

The old houses here are made ofmudbrick and have a pleasantly rusticappearance. In the town centre is theEkrem ‹spir Mansion, which belongedto the first mayor of the town.Renovation plans are on the way by thegovernor of A¤›n and the TurkeyConservation Organisation ÇEKÜL,so the house to be used as a culturalcentre and museum. The buildingtypifies the architecture of A¤›n, thehouses having flat roofs.

In summer there is a local festival, theA¤›n fienlikleri, on the last weekend inJuly, at which time prizes are awardedto the best roasted chickpeas in thearea. The event also features poetryrecitations and dance performances.

Cooking chickpeas (24)

A¤›n local dance (25)

Sivrice (Xox/Dzovk)


Hazar lake/sivrice (26)

Located by Hazar Lake 30km south ofElaz›¤, Sivrice has a population of 4,803and was established in 1939 forMuslims emigrating from Romania andRussia under population-exchangeagreements of the time. The town owesmuch of its appeal to the lake itself,whose name means “one thousand” inKurdish. According to legend, therewas a mining community living here,selling their ores to Mosul, Aleppo andDamascus, as well as growing themost delicious grapes and makingwine. But they neglected to thank thedeities for their prosperity. Angered,the gods sent storms to the region,drowning one thousand.

Given the presence of the lake, the2347m peak of Hazarbaba and theKarao¤lan Mountains, the area is pop-ular with visitors and has a number of

summer houses, picnic areas and gov-ernment recreational facilities. Thelake’s recreational potential ispromoted at the Sivrice Göl fienliklerifestivities in July. Besides tourism,fishing is important activity forthe area.

If you happen to be around inmid-June, try to attend the local cherryfestival, at which the best cherries ofthe province are selected by the mostbeautiful women in the province, andthere are performances of traditionalmusic and dance.

Hazar Lake

The lake is situated some 25 km south-east of Elaz›¤ and accessible bydolmufl. The lake has a dozen ofbeaches with clear water where youcan windsurf. For accommodation,there are designated campsites as wellas the two-star Elaz›¤ Mavi Göl Hotel(0424 425 10 20), 30km out from Elaz›¤on the Diyarbak›r road and 16km fromthe small lakeside town of Gezin. It hasa sports centre and pool, the latterhosting some live music sessions.Another place that you may considerstaying can be Tur-Pol Tesisleri(0 424 425 11 00)Hazar lake (27)

Elaz›¤/Sivrice 121

The Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebidescribed a sunken settlement in thelake, and parts of it were visible whenthe water level fell recently. The settle-ment is on a small island called GölcükAdas› in the southwest of the lake. Arelatively recent tale says that apregnant woman cursed the settle-ment when she was refused a drink ofwater by its inhabitants, causing it tosink into the water, though a morerational explanation is that the settle-ment was on an island or peninsulawhich sank after earthquakes. You canmake out the top of the settlement’swalls from the shore, between the littleisland Gölcük (Kilise) Adas› and theshore. The walls are 520m long and upto 6m tall.

Hazarbaba Mountain

In the south of the province is the2347m Hazarbaba Mountain,

accessible by dolmufl. You can enjoya view of both the Hazar Lake and theKeban Dam Lake from the mountain-top. The mountain also has facilities forskiing.

Gezin Strawberry Festival

This municipally organised festival on21 July invites the local farmers andgardeners to win prizes for theirstrawberries, and is a good opportunityfor you to buy not just strawberries butalso cherries at reasonable prices. Thefestival also features concerts andsports activities, including a swimmingcompetition.

Sivrice sunken settlement (28)

Skiing in Hazar Baba Mt(29)

Gezin strawberries (30)

Palu (Palo)


Palu historic hamam (31)

A tranquil area, Palu is surrounded bythe Taurus Mountains and traversed bythe Murat River. Being a conservativeplace, Palu with the population of8,894 is said to be the ideal place togrow, tobacco and sugar-beet are alsogrown.

P›nar Tepesi, the hill to the west of thetown, has proved a rich source ofarchaeological finds from theChalcolithic period (fourth millenniumB.C.) right up to the Middle Ages. Palubecame capital of the Urartian Empirewhen it was conquered by King Menau.It was from Palu that Helmuth VonMoltke (Moltke the Elder), a famousGerman adviser to the Ottoman army,set out on his journey downstream bykelek (a raft made from sixty animalskins) to investigate whether theEuphrates was navigable.

Palu was administratively attached toDiyarbak›r until the foundation of theTurkish Republic. The town, for someshort time was the control centreduring the Kurdish rebellion of 1925 ledby Sheikh Said also known as fiex SeîdêPalo, and where the insurrection had itslast stand. The rebellion was crushedand Sheikh Said, who was from theNaqshibendi dervish order, and some ofhis followers were arrested andhanged in June of that year at Da¤kap›Square in Diyarbak›r (Also see p: 139).Like the Elaz›¤ Plain, the region wasvery much inhabited by Armeniansbefore the 1920s event, some scholarshave documented that there were once48 Armenian villages.

Sheikh Said before hanging (32)

Ulu Cami in old Palu (33)

Elaz›¤/Palu 123

There are several historical siteswithin walking distance of one anotherin Old Palu (Eski Palu), some 8kmaway from the modern town.

Merkez Mosque

Dating from 1874, this is a square con-struction in the centre of New Palu inCumhuriyet quarter with a flat roofdivided into three naves inside. Themihrab is beautifully decorated.

Palu Fortress

This Urartian fortress sits on a steephillside with views of Old Palu in Yukar›Palu (Zeve) district. Dating from thesame era is an 80m tunnel with stepsin the northwest side of the hill and, onthe west side, a large rock bearing aninscription by King Menua. Theremains of the Church of the HolyIlluminator and two ancientmosques can also be seen.

Ulu Cami

Located in in Çarfl›bafl›area the original mosquewas a 12th-centuryArtukid construction, butwhat you see today is theresult of rebuilding in the 15th cen-tury, and the minaret and mihrab datefrom the 17th and 18th centuriesrespectively. The mosque has a rec-tangular plan with a flat roof and blackand white arches running north–south.Its walls are made of rubble stone,typical of the region. Nearby is Küçük

Cami, of which only the minaret andsome sections of wall are still stand-ing.

Cemflit Bey’s Tomb

Located near the Ulu Cami also inÇarfl›bafl› area, Cemflit Bey was acavalry officer of Sultan Selim in the16th century, and his tomb, withbeautiful stonework, survives togetherwith the tombs of other members of

his family. A cube-like domedmosque is also part of the

complex.

Palu Church and PaluBridge

Though when it was buildis unknown but it said that

the Palu Church is an Byzantinemaster. It consists of one nave, whichwas originally domed, though of thedome only the octagonal drumremains. East of the nave is the apse,to either side of which you will findsome frescoes of angels and biblicaltexts on the arches. The precise age ofthe church is unknown, though itmight date from the early 19th centu-ry. The church is around 100 metresbelow the Ulu Cami and 600-700metres away from the Bridge.

Walking towards the river from thechurch you will come up to the historicPalu Bridge. Palu was part of the SilkRoad during the 12th century, and thisbridge was an important ford over theMurat River. The bridge you see todayis an Ottoman construction.

On the way to old Palu (34)

Train station (35)

Palu

chu

rch

(36)

Kovanc›lar (Qowanciyan)


With the population of 19,358, some67km northeast of Elaz›¤ is the town ofKovanc›lar. In 1934 three hundredTurkic families were resettled fromRomania to Elaz›¤, by arrangementbetween the two countries. Thesefamilies were settled around Palutemporarily and the following year theymoved to a newly built village namedafter their place of origin in Romania –Kovanc›lar. It is said that it took awhile for these migrants to integrate;for example, they were reluctant toallow their daughters to marry local

men. Many of the migrants later leftfor the western cities of Sakarya andBursa to join relatives.

Near the village of Ekinözü (Habap), onthe side of Venk Mountain 7km fromKovanc›lar, can be seen the remains ofan Armenian monastery dating backprobably from 13th century with 15rooms, though it is sometimesdescribed as a castle. Above theentrance are chiselled two snakes, andnext to the ruins are two Ottoman-erafountains.

A local from Elaz›¤ (37)

Cooking bread (38)

Alacakaya (Guleman)

Elaz›¤/Karakoçan/Alacakaya 125

Alacakaya town with the population of2,863, 85km from Elaz›¤, stands on topof a hill at high altitude. The town’smodern history begins with the discov-ery of chromium in the vicinity in the1930s. The story goes that a miningengineer chanced upon some rocksdiscarded by a villager, who had beenusing them to balance the load on hismule. The engineer went to the Saisiarea, where the villager said he hadobtained the rocks, and he discoveredchromium resources. The state

launched a mining company to exploitthem and the town grew up around thearea, which also produces marble.

Nearby is the Murat Han›Caravanserai in the village ofÇakmakkaya (Dolek), some 8km fromAlacakaya. Once a stopping point onthe Silk Road, the caravanserai isthought to have been built during thereign of Sultan Murat IV in the 17thcentury. There are waterfalls 3kmfurther towards Elaz›¤.

Alacakaya’s famous marbles (39)

A joyful girl (40)

Maden

On the border between Diyarbak›r andElaz›¤ provinces some 80km awayfrom the city of Elaz›¤, is the town ofMaden, population 5,952, can bereached through a steep road thatleads off the Diyarbak›r–Elaz›¤highway. The town lies in a valley closeto the Mihrap Mountains (an extensionof the Taurus range) at an altitude of1054m.

Maden is the only placebetween the Tigris and theEuphrates which producescopper. It is believed that thecopper reserves were foundby the Assyrians andexploited later by theRomans. Until 1889 it ruledfrom Diyarbakir, but becamea district of Elaz›¤ in 1927.

The town has two minormonuments, one of whichis the Camii-Kebirmosque built in 1872 bySultan Hamit andrestored three timessince. Its refined stoneminaret was built inAH 1317. The other is

the Clock Tower (Saat Kulesi), thoughtto date from 1898, which stands in thegarden of the Hükümet Kona¤› (CityHall). Despite the typical Ottomanarchitecture, it was once officiallyregistered by the Ministry of Tourismand Culture as a church. The buildinghas also seen use as an ‹mam-HatipLisesi, that is to say a school forMuslim religious education. It is onlyeight years after that the truth came

out and the ministryreclassified it a historicalOttoman city house.However, the building is stillbeing used as a school andthus restoration has notbeen possible.

Some 25km from Madenon the way to Elaz›¤ isGezin beach, a popularHazar Lake swimming

spot in summer andhome to somegovernment-owned facilitiesand villas mostlybelonging topeople fromDiyarbak›r.


A view from Maden town (41)

The old watch tower in Maden (42)

Karakoçan (Dep)

With the population of 12,903, 104 kmnortheast of Elaz›¤ is town ofKarakoçan, a mountainous region withbeautiful oak trees along the valley.Local people cultivate sugar beet, sun-flowers and cotton and rear Karamansheep. Remittances from Europebenefit the area a lot as more or lessevery family here has a relativeabroad.

This was once a buffer zone betweenthe Romans and Sassanids, and was abattleground for the Byzantines andPersians and then Byzantines andSeljuks, eventually being taken by theSeljuks in 1107, though their reign wasended by the Mongol invasion. Thetown played an important role duringthe First World War when the 2ndOttoman Legion, well known for itsexploits in Çanakkale, was moved hereto counter the Russian armies whichwere menacing the Ottoman Empire.

Karakoçan is the hometown of YükselYavuz, a Kurdish film-maker whomoved to Germany in 1980. His moviesdeal with problems facing Turkishimmigrants in Germany. One of hismost recent works is a documentary

called Close Up Kurdistan (2007), inwhich he makes a personal journeyfrom Hamburg in Germany to IraqiKurdish region, through Stockholmand Turkey, and makes a connectionbetween his personal odyssey and thecurrent state of Turkish–Kurdishrelations.

The area is largely home to Alevis, andit is possible to visit the tombs of theirsaints. For a taste of the countrysideyou can spend some time in the forestof Güzel Baba or you can go for anexcursion in the Sefkar Baba forest,accessible by dolmufl.

Elaz›¤/Maden/Karakoçan 127

Karakoçan city centre (43)

Clos

e up

Kur

dist

an(4

4)

Golan Thermal Spring

From the town center, dolmufl cantake to you the natural thermalsprings in the village of Yo¤una¤aç(Golan), 18km from Karakoçan. Thewater wells up at a temperature of upto 60°C from 400m deep, and is said tohave powers to deal with gastricailments, intestinal, liver and skinproblems. The district is also famousfor potable spring water especially inthe villages of Kalecik and Bahçecik.

Yücekonak (Qavuman)

The village of Yücekonak (Qawuman),18km north of Karakoçan, is worthvisiting to see the ruins of a castle anda lake named Yüzenada(“Swimming/floating Island”) by thelocals. Oddly, steps lead down into thedepths of the lake but these are oftenhidden by reeds.

Pir Cemal Abdal Tomb

This Alevi tomb in the village ofÜçbudak (Delikan), 3km northwest ofKarakoçan, is that of a person believedto have lived between in the late 12thand early 13th centuries, at the timeof the Seljuks.

Garip Baba Tomb

Another Alevitomb, this is25km north-east of

Karakoçan in the village of Yeflilbelen(Gaxmud). It is thought that GaripBaba, passing through the regionsome 200 years ago, fell sick and hadto stay for a while. The villagersrealised he was an erudite mystic, andhis grave subsequently became aplace of pilgrimage. The shrine herewas added only recently.

Sefkar Baba (Seyyid ‹brahim)Tomb

This Alevi tomb is 4km west ofKarakoçan in the village of Demirdelen(Kafan). Sefkar is said to have lived in

the area in the late 13th andearly 14th centuries,

having arrived fromwhat is now

northern Iraqin order to

preachIslam.


Golan hot springs (45)

Tomb (46)

An inscription of a tomb (47)

Spring time, Dêrsim (1)

The mountainous region formerlyknown as Dêrsim (meaning “silverdoor” in Persian, because the city ofthat name was said to be impreg-nable and so was nicknamed thus)has historically been home torecalcitrant tribes who, up untilOttoman times, refused to pay taxesto the central government.

Mesopotamian sources say that in2000 BC, the area we now call Elaz›¤and Tunceli was called ‹fluva. It wasconquered by the Hittites to the west,and then controlled by the Mushkipeople until it was taken by the Medesin the 7th century BC. Subsequentdecades saw the Persians,Macedonians and Romans in charge.The area then came under Byzantinecontrol, and was something ofa battleground for the Byzantines andSassanids for many years. Eventuallythe region came under the Seljuksafter the key Battle of Malazgirt in the11th century. Under the Ottomans,Dêrsim was at various times aprovince in its own right or sanjaklinked to Erzurum and Elaz›¤. It finallybecame a province once again in 1946.

Tunceli has a special place in Kurdishcollective memory, since it was hometo one of the two biggest uprisings inthe modern history of the region, inthis case led by the Alevi tribal leaderSeyid R›za-i Zaza in the 1930s(See p:139). All along, the province hadfiercely gone its own way, adopting itsown laws and taxation system, and theAlevis of Dêrsim had refused to servein the Ottoman army. In 1921, theKurdish Rise Association (see alsop: 139) decided to open branches inKoçgiri district of Sivas, further north,

Tunceli 131

Munzur River (2)


84,022 (2007)

Average altitude

1.264 mArea7.774 square kilometres

DistrictsTunceli, Çemiflgezek, Hozat, Mazgirt,

Nazimiye, Ovac›k, Pertek, Pülümür

EconomyBeekeeping, Agriculture,

Livestock Farming


Erzincan (north), Bingöl (east),

Elaz›¤ (south)

At a glance

and in Dêrsim. The governmentreacted by despatching a special armyto the region, which put down theinsurrection harshly after three and ahalf months. In the 1930s, new militaryinstallations here plus the Tunceli lawof 1935, which amongst other thingsaimed to settle Turks in the area,triggered Seyid R›za-i Zaza’s uprising(also called Dêrsim Rebellion) , whichwas eventually put down in 1937, withSeyid R›za and some other peopleincluding his son and brother beinghanged in November that year. From1938 to 1949, large parts of theprovince were declared ano-man’s-land by the Turkish army,and travel restrictions persisted untilthe late 1960s.

Tunceli province still retains its dis-tinctive identity and a particular flavour

of nationalism. This is due to partly tothe fact that most people are Zaza inorigin and speak Zazaki (often calledDimili), and also the fact that themajority of the people are of the Alevifaith, a unorthodox branch of ShiiteIslam that, among other things, allowswomen to pray with men in worshipplaces called cem evi, instead of tradi-tional mosque. The Alevis have facedpersecution at various times. In themid-16th century for example, thechief Ottoman religious official,Ebussud Efendi, circulated a fatwa tokill Alevis in parts of Turkey, whichresulted in large numbers of thembeing murdered. The relaxed nature ofthe Alevi faith, perceptible in the factthat Alevi women can pray togetherwith the men, might be due to a reac-tion against Sunni Islam and somehow


Chained prisoner, Dêrsim rebellion (3)

Pir Sultan monument, Tunceli centre (5)

Alevi religious dance (4)

their relaxed way of life may originatefrom the influence of migrant Dêrsimiswho live in western Turkey or Europe.Indeed women play a major role in theprovince, in business and even infrontline politics.

Also underlining this nonconformity,for example, are the stickers you maysee in the streets and on windows ofthe shops, reading MunzurumaDokunma! (“Don’t touch my Munzur”).They are one small part of a localcampaign against the project (not partof the wider Southeastern AnatoliaProject, see p: 67) to build a series ofdams on the Munzur River, a branchof the Euphrates. Ultimately thesedams could mean thousands ofpeople having to be resettled and theterritory forming the Munzur ValleyNational Park being submerged by alake. The economy of the provinceis based on livestock mainly andsome agriculture. Some of themain products are wheat,tobacco, fishery vegetableand grapes.

For tourists, the steep, snow-capped peaks leave a lastingimpression, as do theprovince’s other unspoiltnatural attractions – rivervalleys, plateaus and water-falls. The Munzur ValleyNational Park, which runs fromthe provincial capital to Ovac›k,offers excellent opportunities for

trekking and rafting. Also good forexcursions are the Mercan Valley inOvac›k and the Pülümür Valley.Another attraction in Tunceli are natu-ral spring waters, such as at DereovaWaterfalls, which are actually spring-fed. The district of Pertek boasts largeoak forests in the west which extendinto neighbouring districts; the greenforest gives an extra beauty to rich-ness of the region. Mazgirt is worthvisiting for the wonderful view from itsfortress and the Bagin Thermal Springon the Peri River. You can also stop bysome cave dwellings in Çemiflgezek.Wherever you go, locals will be happyto regale you with stories of Dêrsimand to give you directions to help younavigate the rural roads. You shouldinsist from the old people to tell the

stories about theholy Alevi

places inDêrsim.

Tunceli 133

Munzur springs (6)

A zaza woman from Dêrsim (7)


Tunceli CityTunceli city (population 27,091) issurprisingly modern in its outlookcompared with other towns in south-eastern Turkey or even some ofIstanbul’s more conservativeneighbourhoods. The city is known forhaving an independent-mindedpopulation, but for visitors, the mainreason to make for this little-visitedarea is if you are big fan of nature. Thecity is surrounded by high mountainsand steep cliffs, and the Munzur Valleynearby was one of Turkey’s first fifteennational parks.

Otherwise, the city itself has a restfulgreen space in ‹nönü Park, in thecentral Mo¤ultay quarter. The parkoffers good views of the MunzurMountains and the Munzur River,which runs through the city. A numberof cafés in the area serves fresh fish,snacks and various drinks, includingalcohol.

A good time to visit Tunceli is betweenspring until mid Autumn also during

the Munzur Kültür ve Do¤a Festivali(Munzur Festival of Culture andNature), an open-air four-day eventorganized by the municipality andsome NGO organisations at the end ofJuly or in early August. As its namesuggests, the festival gathers togetherleading singers and other performers,but is also a time when discussionpanels, film screenings and campaignsare organised in the city centre alsosimilar smaller events held in the

Con

cert

dur

ing

Dêr

sim

fest

ival

(9)

A view from Dêrsim City (8)

Tunceli 135

other districts of Tunceli on the themeof nature conservation and against thedamming of the Munzur River.Interestingly large number of DiasporaKurds also attend this event. Peoplenormally camp nearby the river in theriver for days and keep the whole cityalive until very early hours of themornings. Large number of streetstales, exhibitions, book sellers can befound in the city centre. Take walkalong the river and if you please justjoin one of the large or small groups ofyouth whom play saz and sing together

while drinking cold beer or raki andusually discuss politics until late.

Munzur Valley National Park

The park begins just 5km outside townand stretches all the way to Ovac›k,with the road running parallel to theriver along the way. For more on thepark, (see p.141).

Anafatma Natural Springs

At 27°C, these natural springs are 7kmfrom the centre of Tunceli on the wayto Ovac›k. The water is mildly acidic(with soda) and the area is a good pic-nic spot which is popular with locals.

Kutuderesi Picnic Site

If you are after some fresh fish andcold drinks or even some swimming inthe river, then head for KutuderesiMunzur valley national park (12)

Young people by Munzur river (11)

Munzur Culture Festival (10)

picnic site located some 18km fromthe city centre on the way to Naz›miye.Nearby there are number of otherrestaurants and resting placesproviding similar services.

Halbori Springs

These springs, 20km from Tunceli, sitin a rocky canyon. The water whichgushes out is icy cold and flowsthrough a beautiful landscape, stilluntouristed, down to the Munzur River.If you do visit, do bring refreshmentsas there are no facilities.

Munzur Mountains andBa¤›rpafla Mountain

They are good excursion places withan altitude of 3000m at their highestpoints. The sides of the mountains arecovered with oak and juniper trees.There are also a few crater lakes, ataltitudes between 2000 or 3000m suchas Karagöl, Koçgölü, Mercan Lakesand Buyerbaba. However, it is hard tosee the crater lakes because notransportation will get you there.

There are more than 1500 differentspecies of plants in the National Parkof Munzur, some of them endemic tothe region (that can only be found inthe region). The province would havenaturally become an attraction placefor mountainous activities if therehadn’t been the state of emergency forso long. The winters are especiallylong in the region, with snow coveringthe mountains until mid-April. Thehighest point of the province is AkbabaTepesi, at 3,463m.


Munzur springs (15)

Halbori springs (13)

Kutuderesi picnic site (14)

Tunceli 137

The closest airport is in Elaz›¤, 120km away, while the nearest train station is inErzincan and in Elaz›¤, from where you can take a dolmufl to Tunceli. There arealso regular bus services from other parts of Turkey also Elaz›¤, Diyarbak›r andErzincan to city of Tunceli.

Tunceli has a few decent places to stay. Centrally located options include theDemir Otel at Okullar Cad, Ata Sokak, No. 7 (0428 212 15 51), with 28 rooms; thepricier Has Otel on Boysan Cad (0428 212 1115), with 17 rooms, a restaurant andbreakfast is a clean and comfortable place to stay; and the Yüksel Otel, also onOkullar Cad, with 21 rooms (0428 212 27 84).

Getting there

Accommodation

Places to eat


Munzur mountains (16)

Tunceli will give you the opportunity to taste excellent fish and fresh fruit andvegetable produce. Do not miss the local green salad, which is prepared fromfresh organic ingredients daily and is served with a pomegranate dressing.

The centrally located Kalan Restaurant on Cumhuriyet Cad (0428 21255 96) is agood choice, with a wide-ranging menu, as is the Damla Restaurant on HürriyetCad (0428 212 15 18) near the Has Otel. If you want to enjoy some live music whileyou dine, pay a visit to Yunus Emre in the Gençlik Merkezi (youth centre) inMo¤ultay Mahallesi (0428 212 50 93), which has nice views of the Munzur and is arelaxing place to drink a few beers. In addition to those in the city, are number ofclosely located restaurants in the centre by the Munzur River, also some just out-side of the Tunceli also by river which they serve good quality fish with live music.

Dêrsimi performers

The province has been the birthplace of a number of poets, writersand musicians, among them Sey Qajî (or Seyîdê Qajî; 1936–1971).Despite losing his sight as a child, he began reciting poems and thensinging them while playing the tembur. His love for Dêrsim andsupport for the poor and handicapped caused him some trouble withthe authorities, which forced him to move elsewhere. Even today mostpeople in Tunceli know a couple of his compositions.

Usar Ame / Spring CameBinê Bîrîkano / From the hillsides of BirikanBinê darikano / From the deeper side of treesÇefê cenano / It is the joy of womenSerê no banano / On the roofsÇefêna xortano / It is the joy of youthBinê birikano / Under the bushÇefê pîrîkano / It is the joy of eldersPê kila doano / Bringing some more AyranÇefê viyvîkano / It is the joy brides

Sey Qajî

Then there are thebrothers Metin andKemal Kahraman, whowere born and broughtup in the Pülümür district,blended traditional Zazakisongs with modern instru-ments and sounds, bywhich they hope tobridge old and new styles.Also musical brothers of the province are Mikail and Ahmed Aslan,who now live in Germany. They have been able to spread their enthu-siasm for traditional Dêrsimi musical instruments and styles to youth,among whom these had not enjoyed a particularly strong following.Last but not least is Aynur Do¤an, born in 1975 in Cemisgezek. Sheis particularly known for a song Keçê Kurdan (“Kurdish Girls”), whichcaused a stir with its message calling upon Kurdish women to resistoppression.

Aynur Do¤an (17)

Metin-Kemal Kahraman (18)

138

Dêrsim Rebellion (Seyyid R›zai Zaza Rebellion)

Tunceli was the stage for manyuprisings taking place during themore recent history of the region.Kurdish uprisings such as Koçgiri(1921) and Sheikh Said (1925) hadtheir imprint on all areas inhabitedby Kurds including Tunceli. Finallythe Seyyid R›za-i Zaza Rebellionstarting in Dêrsim in 1937 is stillfresh in the memory of localpeople. In the face of frequentuprisings in the region, there wererepeated military operations whilenew methods were adopted toestablish the authority of thecentral government. In one ofthese, the “Tunceli Law” wasenacted on 25th December 1935and remained in effect for 10years, martial law was declared inDêrsim, Elaz›¤ and Bingöl, andDêrsim was renamed as “Tunceli.”(means-bronze hand) With thislegislation which also envisagedsettling Turkish population in thearea accorded the status of bothmilitary commander and generalinspector to the Governor of thearea. As such the Governor wasgiven immense authority includingthe following: Prosecuting, judgingand sentencing persons; displacingpersons or families. According tothe legislation, any accused personwould be denied the right to seethe indictment or defend himself.Furthermore, any court decisionwould be definitive without thepossibility of appeal to a higher

court. With the implementation ofthe new legislation fresh unrestbroke out early in 1937. Born inDêrsim, Seyyid R›za was the chiefof one of the leading tribes of theregion. Though not taking activepart, he had helped insurgentsduring the Koçgiri Rebellion of1921 and Sheikh Said Rebellionlater in 1925. While in contactwith Government authorities in theregion, Seyyid R›za opposed theGovernment decree requestingtribes to surrender arms and not tooppose to construction of newmilitary bases and police stations.Instead, he asked for a newregional government that wouldsafeguard the rights of population.The Government responded bysending new troops to the region.In September 1937, while inErzincan to discuss the issue withGovernment authorities, SeyyidR›za was arrested. After a trial of14 days he was sentenced to deathand on 18 November 1937 he washanged at Bu¤day Square in Elaz›¤with 11 more including his son andbrother. Large groups of specialarmy were despatched to theregion to deal with the unrestwhich led to alleged killing ordisappearance including forcedmigration of some tribes to otherparts of Turkey. Most part of theprovince was kept uninhabited bythe Turkish Army until 1949 andtravel restrictions continued up tothe end of the 60s.

Send to exile, Dêrsim rebellion (19)

Seyid R›zai Zaza in court before hanging (20)

139

With a name that means “little plain”in Turkish, Ovac›k (population 4,603) iswell known for its natural beauty, withgreen forests covering the MunzurMountains and traversed by purestreams and rivers. Over 3000m inheight, the mountains lie just a fewkilometres north of Ovac›k town andtheir summits are covered with snowyear round. They were the first rangeformed in Anatolia around 5 millionyears ago, and the peaks are richlyabundant in flora and fauna. Amongstthe many varieties of plants arehealth-promoting garlic, fungi, tulipsand plants that can be used to makeherbal teas.

The Munzur is the most important ofthe rivers here, rising some 17km westof the town and flowing through Ovac›kand Tunceli until it gets to the Elaz›¤province and the lake behind theKeban Dam. The town itself, 60kmnorthwest of Tunceli, is something ofa cool oasis in area withoverwhelmingly hot summers, butOvac›k also endures long winters, soyou can expect to find snow hereuntil mid-April.

Giving the beauty of this area withmany of its waterfalls, Munzur Riverand amazing Munzur and MercanValleys, Ovac›k is been familiar friendto host those who have an appetite fordrinking alcohol while having picnic.One of the favourite drinks in Turkeywhich also consumed here is rak›,Similar to the Greek ouzo, raki ispopular in the area and excellent for apicnic along with some grilled fish.There is much to say about rak›: forexample, it is commonly said thatcheese and watermelon are thepartners of rak› because one cannot

Ovac›k (Pulur)


Munzur Baba Gözeleri spring (21)

Loca

ls fr

om D

êrsi

m(2

2)

Tunceli/Ovac›k 141

go without the two others. Somepeople believe that rak› stimulates allfive senses: smell, because rak› isstrongly flavoured with aniseed; sight,because the table at which rak› isdrunk should be laden with all sort ofmeze; hearing, because conversationswill be avid around the table; taste, asrak› with meze is undeniably tasty; andtouch, because at the end of the mealpeople get closer and tend to holdeach other.

El Baba Camping Resort

The El Baba Resort (0428 511 31 49,fax 0428 511 25 50) http://www.discov-eranatolia.org is a good place to stay ifyou want to enjoy the natural attrac-tions of the area. The resort, 4kmnorth of Ovac›k in Güneykonak(Çakperi) village, has 80 beds withsome tents and dorms which canaccommodate up to eight people.Local dishes are prepared and servedup in front of the campfire in theevening, and there are sometimesperformances of music and dance too.

The resort offers tours and activitiessuch as rafting, paragliding, cycling

and of course trekking, with walkslasting up to eight hours and taking inplateaus, waterfalls and valleys. Mealscan be arranged. For details of theircurrent packages and prices, contactthem directly.

Munzur Valley National Park

Munzur Valley National Park, one ofthe biggest national parks in Turkey at420 square kilometres in size, ismostly situated within the Ovac›kdistrict and features some of thewildest and beautiful nature of theentire southeast. You can enjoy a slowdrive next to the river and there aremany suitable places to pause fora cold beer or picnic. The park is home

Rafting, Munzur river (23)

A wild deer(24)


to a wide range of endemic plants,including 1500 herbs, 43 of which areendemic to Mount Munzur, as well asanimals – you might even encountera few creatures on the road.

Munzur Baba Gözeleri

The Munzur River rises in a beautifullocation near the village of Ziyaret,some 17km west of Ovac›k and 80kmfrom Tunceli. As the weekends arevery popular among the locals to use

this site for picnic it’s recommendedthat you turn up early to find a place.Facilities include a children’s play-ground and a little restaurant. If youvisit you may see people lightingcandles next to the water, which Alevisoften do when praying or makinga wish.

Right opposite the picnic spot andclose to the falls is the Munzur watercompany, which distributes bottleddrinking water to the region. Munzurwater is popular among some Kurds inTurkey, who almost seem to considerit part of the national heritage.

The K›rkmerdiven Plateau andWaterfalls

Once used to be the old route of theSilk Road to Erzincan. There are morethan 40 springs that feed the amazingwaterfalls. K›rkmerdiven is a smallvalley leading down into the depths ofthe Munzur Mountains. It is famous forits 4 large waterfalls. The single clovedwild garlic grows and wild mushroomsin higher points here. You be lucky tocome across bears, pheasants and

Munzur Baba springs (25)

Wild bear from (26)

Tunceli/Ovac›k 143

mountain goats. You can picnic here inthe afternoon and return to the resortin the evening.

To get to this site you would need todrive for 9km and 3km on foot, closestvillage is Gözeler (Ç›m›), just 500mfrom the waterfalls.

The Mercan Valley

A good excursion is to head out toMercan Valley, 15km north of Ovac›k.There are two beautiful waterfalls

some 500m apart in attractive sur-roundings. The Turkish name for thewaterfalls, K›rk Merdiven fielaleleri,literally means “40 stairs waterfalls”.

From Ovac›k town, a 36km drive up tothe end of the valley road and then anhour’s walk will take you to the sourceof the Mercan River, on the borderwith Erzincan province. Like theMunzur River, the Mercan is renownedfor its trout. Here you can also findwalnuts and wild pears, and the areais also known for its Munzur honey.The nearest villages are Havuzlu(Hapo) and Ayay›k (Solesen).

The Kepir Plateau

Ideal for trekking, the Kepir Plateaucan be reached in six hours, hiking upfrom the main road. You can evencamp for a night or two on the plateaubut note that it lies at an altitude of3400m, so be prepared for cold condi-tions. There are six lakes on the KepirPlateau or higher up.

To reach the plateau, take the roadleading due north out of Ovac›k andcontinue for around 17km.

Kir

kmer

diva

n w

ater

fall

(28)

Snowdrops (27)


Picnic site by the Munzur Baba Gözeleri springs (29)

Trout are farmed within the Munzur ValleyNational Park, and you can try the well-known reddish trout at the K›rm›z› BenekliAlabal›k Restaurant (0428 511 21 57),which also serves alcohol. You’ll find therestaurant in the Kandolar quarter, nearthe centre of Ovac›k town.

The Munzur Otel (0428 511 20 64)is a small centrally located placewith 22 rooms in the Ovac›k towncentre. Otherwise, consider stayingat the Elbaba Camping Resort(0428 511 31 49) just out of town(see p:141).


Melon, Watermelon and Rak› (30)

The Legend of Munzur Baba

This is the tale of a shepherdcalled Munzur who lived aroundthe Ziyaret ( Jarê) village in Ovac›k.

One day Munzur’s master made apilgrimage to Mecca. While hewas away, Munzur said to thelord’s wife, “Madam, my masterdesires sweets. If you preparethem, I will take them to him.”

At first she was surprised andthen she thought Munzur mightwant the sweets for himself. Butshe prepared the sweets anywayand gave them to him. As soon ashe had the sweets he was trans-ported to Mecca in the twinklingof an eye and took them to hismaster, who was naturallypuzzled. Munzur said, “Mymaster, you desired sweets and soI brought them to you.” Hismaster wanted to reply butMunzur had disappeared.

When his master returned, all thepeasants went to greet him, asdid Munzur, who took a bucketfilled with milk. While the crowdwas trying to kiss the master’s

hand, he said to them, “This is theone whose hand must be kissed,”pointing out Munzur. But Munzurran away from the approachingthrong and disappeared in theMunzur Mountains. The milk hewas carrying splashed around andwhere it spilt, water gushed out –the springs that feed the MunzurRiver. However there is a differentversion of the shepherd story, alsoanother Munzur Baba legendwhich tells of Prophet Abrahamand his sheep.

Mun

zur

Bab

a Zi

yare

t, s

etti

ng c

andl

es (3

1)

Handing out food at Munzur Baba Ziyaret (32)

145

Pertek (Pêrtag)


Pertek (population of 6,032), is closerto and has stronger commercial tieswith neighbouring Elaz›¤ province thanwith Tunceli. Around 50km south ofTunceli city, the town lies on apeninsula on the edges of the lakebehind the Keban Dam. The proximityof the dam has allowed the develop-ment of fishing and gives the area alush appearance, especially in spring.Regular ferries run between Pertekand Elaz›¤ every 30 minutes from6.30am to 8.30pm.

During Ottoman times Pertek was acultural centre and a number ofmosques and madrasahs were built,though many monuments were sub-merged when the dam was built,including a 15th or 16th-century Syriacchurch, which was once the largest inthe province and stood in the village ofKorluca (Til). Most of the monumentsthat survive were rescued in1975, a massive operation inwhich students of the MiddleEastern Technical University inAnkara transported them pieceby piece to the then newly builtSo¤ukp›nar district.

An annual one-day festival is celeb-rated, usually in July, in the vicinity ofthe dam. It is called the Pertek Peynirve Pekmez Festivali (Festival ofPertek’s Cheese and Pekmez, pekmezbeing a kind of sweet made of grapes)and features music and folkloricshows, as well as gold medals for themakers of the best cheese andpekmez.

Çelebi A¤a Camii

Probably the most impressive of themonuments in Pertek town, thismosque was built by Koca Hac›l› AliO¤lu Çelebi around 1560, with theminaret dating to the 1570s. With threedomes in the portico infront of the prayerhall, it is agorgeous

A view of sun fall in Pertek (33)

Çelebi A¤a Camii (34)

Tunceli/Pertek 147

example of Ottoman architecture. Themosque was carefully moved to itspresent location in the central ‹stiklalquarter. There are three small tombsand one large one at the back.

Yukar› (Baysungur) Camii

Also in the ‹stiklal quarter is this stonemosque, nicely decorated with Koranicinscriptions and murals. The mosque

was built in 1569 by Baysungur, a locallord. Note the beautiful entrance doordecorated with geometrical figures oneach side and a muqarnas canopy.There are three domes on the portico,and a minaret with a square base andcylindrical shaft, all built with stone oftwo different colours. Inscriptions fromhere are on show in the Archaeologyand Ethnography Museum at F›ratUniversity in Elaz›¤ (see p: 112).

Accommodation

Pertek has a decent hotel on thecentral Atatürk Cad, namely the ParkOtel (0428 651 36 44).

Pertek Kalesi

This fortress, 3km southwest of townon the banks of the Murat River, sitson an island in the Keban Dam Lake.The fortress was built during the 11thcentury by the Mengujukids, and reno-vated by the Ottomans. At the highestpoint of the Kale is a bird statuesymbolising fertility. Two mosques anda caravanserai from the 16th centuryin the immediate surroundings arenow underwater. The fortress is

Yuka

r› (B

aysu

ngur

) Cam

ii(3

6)

Pertek Kalesi (35)


located near the ferry stop; you caneither get to the fortress by ferry boator walk to form behind the ferry stop.

Derun-i Hisar (Sa¤man) Kalesiand Sa¤man Mosque

In the village of Sa¤man, 19km northof town, is the Derun-i Hisar Kalesi.The Turkish traveller Evliya Çelebireferred to it as the property of anArtukid Ruler from Diyarbak›r. Only thewestern and southern parts of thestructure are still standing.

The mosque, with its beautifulminarets and Islamic inscriptions, wasbuilt by Salih Bey in 1555. The prayerhall is domed and entered via a portalwith muqarnas in a half-dome. Thevertical inscriptions on the portalframe are worth noting, beautifullycarved into the stone. The mihrab israther simple in comparison, though italso has a half-dome with muqarnasand is framed by muqarnas ornamen-

tation. To the east and west of theportico are rows of rooms;to the west is the tomb of Salih Bey,added around 1570.

Pertek port (37)

Sunset in Pertek (38)

Hozat (Xozat)

Tunceli/Hozat 149

The small town of Hozat is some 96kmaway from the city of Tunceli. In thenineteenth century the district town ofHozat was the Ottoman stronghold inDêrsim, where the troops and theofficials resided. It has an old inhabit-ed place, its history probably datingback to Urartian times when it wascalled Hozana. The town has a livelyhigh street and has a population of5,837. There are regularly connectionsby dolmus to Pertek and Elaz›g, but– surprisingly – not to Tunceli center.

The Monastery of Geçimli

10km away from the Hozat towncentre, in the tiny village of Geçimli(Ergen) there are the remains of theArmenian monastery of Erkayn, proba-bly dating back from the 10th century.This was as an important place of pil-grimage for the Armenians of the area.The monastery is seldom visited bytourists. To reach Geçimli, shortly

before entering Hozat turn right andcross the bridge over the Hozat River.From here continue your journey.About halfway, just after the village,you will see some ancient graves inthe form of sheep at the leftof the road.

Woman shepherd in Hozat (39)

From Geçimli Monastery (40)

Çemiflgezek (Melkiflî)


As a Kurmanji-speaking, Sunni Muslimstronghold in a predominantly Aleviarea, Çemiflgezek (population 3,327)has a strong and distinctive sense ofidentity. The town is a quiet sort ofplace 120km west of Tunceli inruggedly beautiful surroundings, thehighest point of which is the Y›lan(K›rklar) Mountain at 2950m. Some ofthe town’s population are semi-nomadic, and are commonly referredto as fiavaklar; these people leave forthe plateaus in May and June,returning in September.

Çemiflgezek is one of the oldestinhabited places in Turkey, with ahistory going back 7000 years. But

despite being archaeologically impor-tant, only two-thirds of the area couldbe surveyed before being submergedby the waters behind the Keban Dam,which lies to the south.

The town is mentioned in EvliyaÇelebi’s Seyahatname as being theplace where an Iranian captain choseto settle here to escape a powerfulPersian ruler called Çemsit (Jamshed),a corruption of whose name laterbecame part of the town’s name. Thecaptain became so wealthy that he hada kale built (see below) to protect himfrom Çemsit.

Çemiflgezek was one of the principali-ties influential in Dêrsim at the time,also known as “Melkifliler” whom wereKurdish. In the period 1202-1508,rulers from this principality controlled32 fortresses and 16 settlements fromthe western part of Dêrsim to the eastof Karasu and to the north of MuratRiver. Local rulers of Çemiflgezekmanaged to hold control over the areaeven in the times of Genghis Khan,Tamerlane and his son fiahruh Mirza

Çemiflgezek (41)

Symbol of Ahura Mazda (42)

Tunceli/Çemiflgezek 151

and Turcoman Kara Yusuf. Kurdishhistorian fierefxan, mentions theemergence of Shah ‹smail who sentNur Ali Halife, one of the K›z›lbafl Beys,for subduing the principality ofÇemiflgezek, after which Hac› RüstemBey surrendered his land without anyresistance and then went up to thepalace of the Shah to proclaim hisobedience. Rüstem Bey indeed foughtagainst the Ottoman army with theShah in the Battle of Çald›ran.However, upon the victory of theOttoman army and subsequent marchtowards Tabriz, Rüstem Bey this timedefected to the Ottoman side, whichproved futile since Yavuz Sultan Selimordered the execution of 40 incomersincluding Rüstem Bey and his familymembers.

To break the Safevid influence over theregion, ‹dris-i Bitlisi had developed thepolicy of placing Kurdish principalitiesto the service of the Ottoman State. Inline with this policy, Pir Hüseyin Bey,son of Rüstem Bey, met with YavuzSultan Selim while the latter was inAmasya declaring his obedi-ence. Accepting this, YavuzSultan Selim accorded theprincipality of Çemiflgezekto Pir Hüseyin.

The houses in Çemiflgezekwill probably catch youreye, with their flat roofsand timber supports,and featuring a mix ofstone and adobe(kerpiç). The top floor ofsuch houses is tradition-ally reserved for guests,and rooms here usuallyhave window overhang-ing the street, makingthem the focal pointof the house.

The relics of a Kurdishemirate which flour-ished here briefly in the

16th century can still be seenmosques, tombs, stone bridges and anelegant hamam are strewn across thetown and neighbouring villages. Also

worth visiting today are somesurprising troglodyte caves.

If you are looking for local spe-cialities, consider buying somehoney or mulberry. In fact bothare awarded as prizes at a

municipal festival held inmid-July, at which

there are also con-certs and folkloricperformances.

Çemiflgezek(Hieropolis)Kalesi

On the eastern bankof the Euphrates arejust a few remainingwalls of this kalethat was made oftruncated stones inparts only. It dates

Çemiflgezek house (43)

Old photo of a woman from Dêrsim (44)


from the Byzantine period. ByzantineEmperor ‹oannes Tzimisces (969–976)who was born there is said to havegiven his name to the town. Nowadaysa shopping centre has been built in itsplace.

A 20km drive west of the town, andnear the east bank of the Euphrates isthe original fortress of Çemiflgezek,which was either built by or named forthe Byzantine Emperor John Tzimisces(ruled 969–976) who was a native ofthis region.

Süleymaniye Camii (Kale Camii)

This mosque, in the central Kaledistrict, is the town’s largest historicalmonument. It is believed to be a Seljukconstruction, perhaps originally amadrasah which in the 17th centurywas converted into a mosque withthree bays. The minaret can now beseen in its original glory, as a laterplaster coat has now been removed.

Yelmaniye Camii (Eski Camii) andHamidiye Madrasah

Based in the central MedreseNeighbourhood, this is an interestingexample of transitional architecture,reflecting both medieval and Ottomantastes. The mosque was actually oncea madrasah, built in 1274 by Emir

Taceddin Yelman, a Turcoman Bey(ruler) descended from Tamerlane.The building was transformed intoa mosque in 1404 by the Kurdish EmirYalman. The entrance consists ofa large pointed arch, around which isa frame with different kinds ofgeometrical motifs. At the mainentrance of the mosque there areoctagon columns with ornament andwhen you open the door these twocolumns will rurn on their own. Inside,take a look at the mihrab, whose semi-dome and spandrels contain floralornamentation, and whose niche has aframe decorated with a geometricalstar design.

In the same area is the HamidiyeMadrasah, with quite a simple facade.Built during the reign of SultanAbdülhamid II, it was used as anadministrative building for years andlater sold into private ownership. Thebuilding is open to the public.

Hamam-› Atik

The ruins of an attractive 15th centuryAkkoyunlu Hamam, also called theEski Hamam, can be seen in thecentre of the town close to the mainmarket. Inscriptions in both Arabic andTurkish at the entrance state that itwas renovated by one Hac› Ali A¤a.

Çemiflgezek Bridge

This bridge, also known as TagarKöprüsü or Yusuf Ziya Pafla Köprüsü,

The entrance of Süleymaniye (Kale) Camii (45)

Yelmaniye Camii (Eski Camii) (46)

Tunceli/Çemiflgezek 153

is in an exceptionally beautiful setting2km from town on the Ta¤ar River.Built in 1807 by Yusuf Ziya Pafla, thebridge is 4m wide, 29m long and 9mtall, and was renovated in 1856 by theDiyarbak›r Governorate. The bridgehas one big arch and interestingcarvings on both sides showingcypress trees in stone vases, which iswhy it is also commonly referred to asSelvili Köprü (“cypress bridge”).

‹n Delikleri/Dervifl Hücreleri

These so-called “dervish cells” arecaves in the Kela quarter, just west ofthe town. The caves are thought to bethousands of years old were mostprobably hollowed out further for thepurpose of inhabiting them. Theresulting rooms are more than 2mwide and 2m high, and linked to eachother by corridors, with the largestroom lying above all the others. Thecaves are high up in rocks by Ta¤arRiver; a path leads up to a point justbelow, from where you climb to thecaves by ladder.

Ulukale and the Tombof Ferruh-fiad Bey

The village of Ulukale, 20km southeastof town, is named after the fortresshere, of which only some walls remain.The village itself features an Ottomanmosque constructed in 1793 by theformer governor of Diyarbak›r, Yusuf

Hamam-› Atik (47)

Dervifl Hücreleri (48)


Pafla. Here you can also seea beautiful fountain made of stone,said to date from the 16th century.

Close to the village is the tomb ofFerruh fiad Bey, a man of powerduring the 16th century. The tomb,built in 1550/51, is octagonal and fea-tures an unusual belt of reddish stone.

Pulur Höyü¤ü

This tumulus, 40km southwest of townin the village of Sakyol (Pulur), wasexcavated in 1968, revealed that thearea has been inhabited since theBronze Age. This is an interestingplace for those who have interest inarchaeology.

Village Store (49)

Çemiflgezek Bridge (50)

Getting there Accommodation

The town can be reached from Tunceli via Pertekor by ferry from Elaz›¤. One serves the Akçap›narvillage 10km south of Çemiflgezek, with hourlydepartures from Çemiflgezek between 6am and6pm, and departures from Elaz›¤ between 7amand 7pm. A new, faster ferry leaves fromYemifldere (Devdirej), taking ten minutes to com-plete its journey. There are sailings on this routeevery two hours between 8am and 10pm in sum-mer, and between 8am and 4pm in winter.

You can stay at the ögret-mentevi (teachers’ guest-house) on Leventler Cad inHamamat Mahallesi (0428611 21 94).

Mazgirt (Mêzgir)

Tunceli/Mazgirt 155

Mazgirt is a beautiful green town 33kmeast of Tunceli. The population of 2,474is mostly Zaza Alevis, though there aresome Kurmanji-speaking Alevi villagesand a small Armenianminority who are mainlyartisans residing in thetown and in a few nearbyvillages. Beautiful Mazgirthas more touristicresources than neighbour-ing towns and equallybeautiful natural land-scapes. The castle and the

Ba¤›n Water Springs will be thehighlights of your stay in Mazgirt.

Mazgirt Kalesi

In the northern part of thecentre, this fortress,thought to have been builtby the Urartian King RusasII, is built on top of steeprocks and is only accessiblethrough a cave, itselfreached by a series of 40steps. Most of the walls arein ruins today; people make

the climb mainly to enjoy the breath-taking panorama over the surroundingmountains and valleys.

The Tomb and Mosqueof Elti Hatun

West of Mazgirt Kalesi is the Elti HatunMosque, named after a princess wholikely was a Seljuk and on whoseorders the mosque was built in1252/53. Noteworthy here are theportal and fountain, decorated withmuqarnas ornamentation. Further to

Towards Mazgirt (51)

The tomb of Elti Hatun (52)

Mazgirt Kalesi (53)


the west is the Elti Hatun’s Tomb,though this is not where she wasoriginally interred, as it dates perhapsto the 15th century.

The Tomb of Çoban Baba

This 15th-century tomb can be in thecemetery in the eastern part of thetown. A popular pilgrimage site, it isbelieved to house the grave of a shep-herd who, during the Mongol inva-sions, was despatched here by Hac›Bektafl I to convince people not toleave the region. The site is a relaxingspot, with a nice fountain close by.Built of stone, the tomb itself isrectangular and covered with twoconical domes.

A poem by Haci Bektas Sevgi, muhabbet kaynar, yanan oca¤›m›zda Bülbüller flevke gelir, gül açar ba¤›m›zdaH›rslar, kinler yok olur, aflkla meydan›m›zdaArslanlarla ceylanlar dostturkuca¤›m›zdaHararetnardad›r,sacdade¤ildirKeramet bafltad›r,tacda de¤ildirHer ne arar isenkendinde araMekke’de kudüs’te hac’da de¤ildirErkek difli sorulmaz, muhabbetin dilindeHakk’›n yaratt›¤› her fley yerli yerindeBizim nazar›m›zda, kad›n-erkek fark› yokNoksanl›kla eksiklik seningörüfllerinde

Love and talk never end in our lively home,Nightingales flatter to sing, Roses uncoverAmbitiouns and hates disappear on our table,Lions and gazelles are friends

in our embrace.Heating is from the fire not the plate,Miracle is from the brain not from the crown,Whatever you search for is in yourselfNot in Mecca or Jerusalem.Regardless of being men and women ,Anything God created should be in its place.The missing lies in your thoughts, Not in gender.

Kaleköyü Kalesi

Another example of Urartian architec-ture, most probably dating to the 9thcentury BC, can be found in the village

of Kaleköyü 10kmeast of town, on topof a hill. An interest-ing tunnel beyondthe castle leads to anumber of rooms ofvarious sizes.

Ba¤›n Kalesi

In the village of Dedeba¤ (Ba¤›n), 38kmfrom Mazgirt, is a partly ruinedUrartian citadel dating back 2800years. This was once used as a base bythe Seljuks during the reign of

Imam Ali (54)

Ba¤›n Kalesi (55)

Old grave stone Gelincik Village (56)

Tunceli/Mazgirt 157

Alaaddin Keykybat in the 1200s, buttoday it is the beautiful setting ratherthan the history that is striking: thepartly cultivated hills from a perfectbackdrop around the site, with the PeriRiver also visible.

Gelincik (Kupik)

Probably the most distinctive place inMazgirt is the cemetery at theentrance to Gelincik village, 25km eastof Mazgirt. Some of the tombstoneshere, said to date from the Akkoyunluera, are surprisingly in the form ofstylized sheep. Note also the images ofswords which some tombstones have,symbolising the Alevi faith.

Baba Mansur’s Tomb

Some 30km east of from Mazgirt is theTomb of Baba Mansur, in the largevillage of Dar›kent (Mixundî). He isthought to have migrated here fromKhorasan in Iran, and as a descendentof the Prophet Muhammad he hasmany followers among the Alevis. On

some Thursdays people gather aroundhis tomb to sacrifice animals and pray.

The most popular – and rather bizarre– tale surrounding him is that onceupon a time his relative Baba Kureyflwas riding a wild bear when he cameacross Baba Mansur constructing awall. Puzzled to see Baba Kureyfl ridingthe wild bear, Baba Mansur imitatedBaba Kureyfl by riding the wall he wasbuilding. Baba Kureyfl looked admir-ingly at Baba Mansur and kissed hishand. It is believed that Baba Kureyfland his followers had become admir-ers of Papa Mansur since then.

Ba¤›n (Dedeba¤) Hot Springs

With great views of steep rocky hillsaround, these are probably the nicesthot springs in the area. The spa isnear Peri Suyu, a river whose namemeans “fairy water”, and the springwater is as bubbly as champagne. Ata balmy 35°C, the water is slightlyacid, and bathing is said to be able toameliorate rheumatism, fractures,neuralgia and gynaecological diseases.When drunk the water is said toimprove liver conditions.

The thermal springs are 20km fromKarakoçan, a town in Elaz›¤, which hasfree dolmufles to the spa; dolmuflesalso run from Mazgirt’s bus station tothe springs. There is a single-storeyresort with 30 beds, a restaurant anda cafe here (0537 92127 22).

Ba¤›n (Dedeba¤) spring(57)

Sacrificing animals in Baba Mansur (58)

Naz›miye (K›z›lkilise) (Kislê)


The pleasant mountain town ofNaz›miye, 37km east of Tunceli, hasa population of just 2,923. Formerlyknown as Q›z›lkilise (meaning “redchurch”), the town takes its currentname from that of the grandson of theSultan Naz›m Efendi, who was alsocalled Naz›m. This is a good place tocome if you appreciate rugged naturalbeauty: high peaks lie in the vicinity,including Düzgün Baba Da¤› (2097m),Hamit Baba Da¤› (2133m) and BedirDa¤› (2614m), and the area is crossedby the Pülümür and Peri streams. Thehigh spots of Naz›miye’s naturalbeauties are Dereova waterfalls andHarik natural springs, the town isoverall of particular beauty, especiallyfor those who love mountains.

Believed to have been settled as longago as the Byzantine period, in 1876the town was a district linked toErzurum province. Subsequently it waslinked to Elaz›¤ until becoming adistrict of Tunceli in 1946. Though tiny,the town has a place to stay, the KentOtel on Cumhuriyet Meydan› (0428 41124 01), with eleven rooms.

Nazimiye, Alvi man praying (59)

Imam Ali stone (60)

Tunceli/Nazimiye 159

Düzgün Baba’s Tomb and theCemevi

The tomb of Düzgün Baba is accessi-ble by car 14km north of the town.Legend has it that Düzgün Baba,whose real name was fiah Haydar, wasa shepherd on Mount Zargovit. He wasthe son of Kurefl supposedly a descen-dent of the Alevi religious leaderMahmud Hayrani. One day the father,surprised that his animals were inunusually good condition despite theharsh winter, followed his son to themountain. Concealing himself, hediscovered that every touch of hisson’s stick made the oak leaves growso that the animals could be fed. Theanimals were aware of the father andthis showed in their behaviour. Düzgünasked his sheep, “What happened? Didyou see my father?”. Then he saw hisfather and realized that his father hadseen his ability to work miracles. Heasked him, “Father, what are youlooking at?”, but immediately feltashamed of having done so and wentup to the top of the mountain for

a long period. After a while, his fathersent men to check if his son was doingwell. They reported that everythingwas in order (düzgün in Turkish); sincethen, the peak has been referred to bythe name Düzgün Baba.

En route to Düzgün Baba Tomb, youwill come across a stone called AliTafl›, after the cousin and son in law ofProphet Muhammed. Locals believethat you should light a candle and prayhere before heading for Düzgün Baba.Ali has a special significance to Alevis.Nearby is the cem evi, which includes

At Düzgün Baba pilgrimage (61)

Care taker in Düzgün Baba pilgrimage (62)


seven rooms to be used for accommo-dating travellers (free of charge), aswell as places to eat and cook. Thereare also places to sacrifice animals,and you will see locals selling livestockfor this purpose.

There is also another route to get to theDüzgün Baba’s Tomb; you can get therefrom Tunceli city via K›lköy village.

Dereova Waterfalls (Gelin P›nar›)

Dereova is an ideal place for a day-tripamid beautiful surroundings. You canget there by dolmufl from the town orby car, heading 10km south from townand following the signs for “fielale”.The beauty of the waterfalls and thecalm of the area are ample reward forthe steep road that you have to takefrom the village of Dereova (Dêriyê).The falls are fed from three differentsources 20m up. The landscape takeson another dimension in winter, whenthe falls can freeze.

Afla¤› Doluca (Harik) Hot Spring

This spring, in a valley and close toAfla¤› Doluca (Jêr Harik) village, 16km

from Naz›miye, is surrounded bywoods and features a spa resort withseparate pools for men and women.Bathing in the water, which has atemperature of 39°C and is slightlyacidic, is said to be curative forrheumatism, fractures, and gynaeco-logical diseases. There is also a smallhotel where food is served. Dolmuflesbound for the village of Dalibahçe candrop you here.

A welcome smile from Nazimiye (63)

Der

eova

wat

erfa

ll(6

4)

Pülümür (population 2,082) is 68kmnortheast of Tunceli and lies on a wideplateau surrounded by the Ba¤›r Pafla,Mercan and Munzur Mountains. Thearea has natural resources includingchromium, marble and lime, but thesehave not been exploited so far, andlandscapes remain unspoilt. Thebeautiful landscapes of Pülümür arespotted by rivers (Pülümür, Karagöl,K›rklar) and natural sources.

You can stay in Pülümür at the Ifl›klarOtel, Erzincan Cad (0428 441 24 54).

Hatun Bridge and GelinMa¤aralar›

The name of this bridge refers to thefact that it was a woman whosupposedly ordered the construction ofthe bridge. The story has it that sherequired the artisan responsible to tellher beforehand the exact quantity ofstones that he would use for the con-struction. If he got the number exactlyright, so that not one more stoneshould be needed or any stone leftspare, then he would have the right tomarry her. The story says the artisan

was so gifted that he indeed managedto get the calculation exactly right, andthis was the prelude to a happymarriage.

Just 3km from town, the bridge spansa narrow stretch of the Pülümür River.Close by you can see Gelin Ma¤aralar›,some cave dwellings believed to datefrom the time of the Urartians, witheight rooms and two windows. It isthought that a secret passage leadsfrom the caves down to the river.

Salt production

Salt is still produced traditionally inthe Hiver quarter of Göreli (Gonêli)village, 8km from Pülümür. Herewater flows from a lake into varioussmaller ones, gradually evaporating as

Tunceli/Pülümür 161

Pülümür (Pîlemor/Pilemoriye)

Animals crossing from a bridge near Pülümür(65)

Hatun Bridge(66)

it does so. Eventually just salt remainsin the last lake, where it is collected.

A¤layan Rocks

A pleasant place to picnic lies on theway between Tunceli and Pülümür,close to the K›rm›z› Bridge (also calledthe Hilbes Bridge), 10km southeastfrom Pülümür, where you will seethese famous rocks with water flowingon either side. In winter the waterusually freezes, and when the springthaw arrives in late April, it creates anoptical illusion of the rocks crying –hence the name A¤layan, whichmeans “crying”.

On the way back, you can ask locals inthe village of Gökçekonak (Tahsînî) toshow you Zenginp›nar (Zage)Waterfalls, though you may wellstumble upon them anyway.

K›rm›z› Köprü and Sa¤lamtafl

Some villages, such as K›rm›z› Köprü(Danzik) 13km from town, andSa¤lamtafl (Ç›r›k) 17km away, offer thechance to see examples of Koç-Koyungraves dating from the Akkoyunluperiod between the 15th and 16thcentury. The stelae-like tombstoneshere are decorated with stylised ramand horse motifs and are the earliestexamples of these in the region.

Buz Ma¤aras›

If you pass by the village of Dereboyu(Danzik), near K›rm›z› Köprü, you canask the locals to show you this cave,whose floor is covered with ice (buz)for much of the year. The interior isdivided into 12 rooms, and villagersuse it as a large natural freezer forstoring food.


Traditional salt production(67)

Waterfalls(68)

Gelin Ma¤aralar› (69)

Floating island (1)

Scenic, green Bingöl province islocated in the upper Euphratesbasin. Until 1945 Bingöl was namedÇapakçur, which means “violentwater” in Armenian, but its presentname (meaning “thousand lakes”)derives from the presence of anumber of volcanic lakes in themountains. However, the area issometimes referred to as Çewlik.It became a province in its ownright in 1935.

It is known that Bingöl was a part ofthe Urartu Kingdom in antic times. Thearea then came under the successivedomination of various powers includingAssyrians, Meds, and Persians,Alexander the Great, Seleucids, ArasKingdom, Parts, Romans, Byzantinesand the Ottoman Empire. With itssparsely distributed population andsettlements, Bingöl area was usedmainly for transhumance by rulingpowers. It is also known thatTamerlane used this area as a militarybase during his Eastern Anatoliacampaign in the 14th century.

As described in holy books, Eden fitswell to Bingöl or Kox mountains

with its rich springs and watersources. It is said that the origin ofAb-›- Hayat (water of eternal life) isalso here and there is quite a lot ofsaying about it. A partridge shot downby a hunter is said to come alive andflew away after being left near one ofthe natural ponds here. Another sayingis about a lame bear recovering whilepassing through these lakes. The 17th-century traveller Evliya Çelebi wrotethat Çapakçur was founded and named

Bingöl 165

A view from Bingöl (2)


251,552 (2007)

Average altitude

8.125 kmArea8402 square kilometres

DistrictsBingöl, Adakl›, Genç, Karl›ova,

Ki¤›, Solhan, Yayladere, Yedisu

EconomyAgriculture, Beekeeping and

Livestock raising

Neighboring provinces

Elaz›¤ (west), Tunceli (northwest),

Erzurum (north), Mufl (east),

Diyarbak›r (south)

At aglance


by Alexander the Great. According toÇelebi, Alexander was trying to curehis constant pain. Many doctors failedto cure him, and finally he decided tolook for a source of healing watercalled Ab-›- Hayat. Even though hedidn’t find the source itself, he founda fountain fed by the source, andrecovered his health. It is said thatAlexander told his doctor that God hadcured him with the waters of theParadise River, and gave instructionsthat a fortress be constructed in thatlocation, named Çapakçur or “paradisewater”. The fortress was duly built in315 days.

What is now Bingöl and its hinterlandare mentioned in Anabasis, theaccount by the Greek historianXenophon of a trek made around 400BC by Greek armies from what is nowIraq to the Black Sea. The authordescribes the Bingöl area ascontaining many villages, inhabited bypatriarchal families who kept livestockand produced a strong spirit frombarley. Bingöl is where Tamerlane’sarmy was encamped in the 14thcentury while he was occupyingErzurum.

With extensive grasslands and fertileplateaus, the province is largelydependent on agriculture and livestockfarming, and is visited by traders in thesummer who come to buy variousdairy and agricultural products,including organic honey. Weaving isa common cottage industry, withwoollen garments for men and calicoclothes for women being produced onhand looms. Although there has beengreat improvement in the economicalfront but unemployment remains highand youths are often drawn to citieselsewhere in Turkey in search of work.

The area is considered one of the bestplaces for hunting in Turkey. Gameincludes partridge, woodcock, hazelgrouse and rabbit, which are hunted

The city has produced twowell-known musicians.Mahsun K›rm›z›gül wasborn as Abdullah Bazencirhere in 1969 into a Zazaki-speaking family with 22children. He has recordedsome well-known songs,some of which are inspiredby traditional Kurdish music.Servet Kocakaya, was bornin Bingöl in 1973, records

mainly inTurkish,though hisalbumsincludesomeKurdishsongs.

Some prominent people from Bingöl

Bingöl Ulu Cami (3)

ServetKocakaya (4)

Bingöl 167

from September through to November.In January and February, rabbits andfoxes may be hunted. Periods forhunting are designated by the Ministryof Agriculture, and if you are a localtourist with a gun licence then you canvisit their office in any province formore information. The mountains ofBingöl are home to wild deer, thoughhunting these is not permitted.

The province’s chief attractions arerelated to its natural beauty. There arebeautiful upland views, and one of theimportant of these is that of thesunrise witnessed from KalatepeMountain nearby the town of Karl›ova,which is said to rival that seen fromMount Nemrut. Another interestingattraction is the “floating islands” ona pretty lake near the town of Solhan,which are really clumps of earth heldtogether by trees and which drift abouton the water. In small and delightfultown of Ki¤› and its nearby are manyhistorical sites such as hamam, schooland some intact Armenian churches.

Bingöl City Bingöl city (population 86,511) wasonce located on the plains near theSa¤yer river, but a lack of land forexpansion led to it being moved to itscurrent location. Unfortunately thearea is seismically active and the cityhas suffered from two quakes in

recent times, the first in 1972 andmore recently in 2003, when there wasonce again serious damage to propertyand many were killed. State housingconstructed for victims of the quakecan still be seen around the river.

A modern sort of place, with teagardens and green parks in the centre,the city centre is dominated by the verylarge, newly built Ulu Cami, which hasa green space from which you can takein the vibrant street life. There is asmall, lively main street bazaar also,with most banks and offices nearby.Kurds are the main inhabitants ofBingöl, Kurmanji and Zazaki arespoken here.

‹sfahan Bey Mosque

Thought to date from the 16th century,this mosque is in the bazaar area ofÇapakçur, the old location of Bingöl.The main minaret is original but otherparts have largely been renovated withmodern materials.

The nearest airport is120km away in Muflprovince also Elaz›¤nearby, and is served byflights from Istanbul andAnkara. The nearest trainstation is in Genç, south ofthe city, on the branch lineto Tatvan, with thepossibility of connecting toVan and on to Tehran.

The Sar›o¤lu Hotelon Genç Cad hasmore than 30 roomswith TV, and its ownrestaurant (0426 21317 57). On the samestreet is the Atl›Hotel (0426 213 1037), a smaller placewithout a restaurant.

Sakl›kent Restaurant, inHastane Cad (0 426 213 7700) serves different types ofkebaps, döner, fast foodand meat tava. Also inHastane Cad, Yaylal› Kona¤›(0 426 213 30 15) also servesimilar food including lambbüryan and pide, lahmacun.

Accommodation


Getting there Places to eat

Dried peppers (5)


Çir Waterfall

Water plummets 50mthrough a high rockcalled Çir nearUzundere (Belzer)village, 28km fromBingöl city centre.The area issurrounded by cliffsand caves, and isparticularly attractive inspring.

The old Urartian Road

One of the oldest roads in the world,constructed in 800BC by the Urartians,is well signposted at the 20km markon the Bingöl–Elaz›¤ highway. TheUrartians established an administra-tive system in Anatolia and built roadsto support it. This line of this particularroad can still be seen clearly. It wouldonce have been over 5m wide andextended east to Van and west toMalatya, with rest stations every25–30km.

Za¤ Cave

Located on a craggy rock by the MuratRiver, this cave is 200–300m aboveground, but is easily reached by a path.It was once inhabited and has three“floors”, each with over 20 rooms. It isthought that the rooms at the entrance

level were living rooms, while the onesjust above were for storage and the toplevel rooms were for the women.Circular pathways were made to gofrom one floor to the next, and some17 rooms are still in reasonable condi-tion. The site is 12km from Bingöl citybetween the villages of Gökçeli(Talavra) and Yenidal (Çirik).

Yolçat› Ski Resort and Kuruca(Gazik)

From December to March it is possibleto ski in Yolçat› (fiarge) village, 25kmfrom Bingöl on the Elaz›¤ highway. The

two-storey ski resort (Tel: 04262312015) has fifty beds and

facilities such as arestaurant, hamam

and billiards. A ski liftwill take up to thetwo pistes, one ofwhich is forbeginners.

Just four kilometresback towards Bingöl

from Yolçat› is Kurucavillage, ideal place to pickup some delicious honey

and cream sold in the local shops.

Kös Spa

Located 20km northeast on the high-way to Karl›ova, Kös Spa is said tohave curative properties for those withrheumatism or gynecologicalproblems. Analysis of the water showsthat it would be suitable for bottling asmineral water.

Çir waterfall (6)

The old Urartuian road (8)

Yolçat› skiing centre (7)

Bingöl 169

Binkap Thermal Hotel

This popular spa complex(0426 252 50 03, [email protected]),10km northeast of Bingöl city on theErzurum highway, makes a good,relaxing spot for a weekend break. Thehotel and wooden cottages linked to itare located on the both sides of theriver here, and offer views of the riveras well as the surrounding mountains.

Each house boasts a kitchen, loungeand mini spa pool, while general facili-ties include a hamam, saunas and afitness centre.

The waters are not dissimilar in com-position to those at Kös Spa, and aremeant to help with joint pains, ulcersand various other ailments.

Ayd›ntepe Underground City

The ruins of this settlement, though tobe Hittite, lie on both sides of a roadand are linked by tunnels. Rooms aresquare and are reached by an archedentrance. There are also remains ofsome rooms with vaulted roofs whichstand in row for 5km till Arpal› (Niv)village. Digging marks on the rocks,air holes and the fire signs still can beseen clearly. In its time the city hasalso been used as a prison by variouspowers that have controlled theregion. A grave belonging to theearly Byzantine era has also beenfound here.

Binkap Thermal (9)

A view from Bingöl countryside (10)

Genç (Darahênî/Darayêni)


Spring flowers (11)

Threaded by the Murat River, Genç(population 18,885) is one of the mostrichly forested districts of the province.The district was administered as partof Bitlis during Ottoman period, butbecame a province in the first fewyears of the republic. It wasproclaimed as the temporary capital ofthe Kurdish territory that Sheikh Saidled during the brief uprising he led in1925 (See p:276). The town of Gençbecome part of Mufl briefly before itsabsorption into Bingöl in 1936.

Patriarchal family life still dominateshere in what is a mostly Zazaki-speaking (also called Dimilî)community. Likewise in this region ofTurkey, there is a great tradition ofhospitality, and if you are invited tosomeone’s home for a meal you mayfind your hosts will continue eating togive you ample time to take your fill ofthe food (it is considered impolite forthe hosts to finish before the guestsdo). Weddings are celebrated with folkdances such as gelin götürme(escorting the bride to her new home)and el ç›rpma (hand clapping).

It is possible to stay in Genç town,which is 21km south of Bingöl city.Besides the ö¤retmenevi (teachers’guesthouse; 0426 411 22 08), you canalso try the Divan Hotel (0426 4113022).

Sebeterias Kalesi

The signposted fortress is in ruins,though some walls survive, thisfortress is located at the entrance toGenç town as you arrive from BingölKurdish Cavalry July 1918-Sheik Said Piran(12)

Bingöl/Genç 171

city nearby the local river and long oldstyle iron bridge. It is thought that thisis one of the three castles built by theUrartians to dominate the plateaus ofBingöl and monitor their frontier.

Sürekli (Dîyarburg) Villageand Kral K›z› Fortress

This village 3km east of Genç towncontains two tombs of descendants ofthe Prophet, one of which is coveredwith a dome. Thought to date from the15th century, they are visited by localswho make wishes here in the hopethat they will come true. The tombs

are on a hillside before you enter thevillage, and are signposted.

Also on a hill just before you enter thevillage is the Kral K›z› fortress, builtbetween 1080 and 1200. It is believedthat the fortress accounts for this areaformerly being known as (Darayêni)Dara was the name of either thePersian ruler who built it or his daugh-ter, while “yêni” (yêni) means in Zazaki“fountain”. The Turkish name Kral K›z›means “daughter of the king”. The sitearound the fortress and its nearbyarea is popular for weekend picnic bythe locals.

Girls by the fountain(13)

Sebeterias Kale(14)

Solhan (Bongilan)


Winter in Solhan (15)

Livestock farming dominates, hilly,undulating Solhan (population 17,895),which lies some 60km east of Bingölcity. If you are in Solhan town, youmight notice a house in the centrewhose front wall bears some Syriacand Farsi inscriptions. The house wasbuilt by Vahdettin Sönmez Efendi in the1950s, and incorporates intricatelycarved stones from a famous churchcalled Surp Garabet located on theslopes of the fierafettin Mountains inYa¤c›lar (Dêra Çengelî) village,22km from Mufl city. Two streamspass through the district and cometogether in a point. Murat river is alsopasses by the southern border ofSolhan this adds a kind of naturalbeauty to the town.

The Floating Island

You can enjoy someexcellent views byvisiting the site ofBingöl’s so-called FloatingIsland, whichis actually

three small, grassy “islands” thatmove slowly on a small lake (really alarge pond) that was discovered acci-dentally by the villagers of Hazarsah.The site is 45km from Bingöl city; driv-ing up the highway to Mufl, follow thesigns and drive for another 1.5km offthe highway to reach the site, whichhas a café.

The lake, which has been declared asa protected area by the Ministry ofCulture and Tourism, is surrounded bybeautiful peaks. There is a constantdeep current in the lake, whose waterlevel varies little through the seasons.If you manage to step on any of theislands, which are actually disc-likeclumps of earth held together byroots, it will feel like being on a raft.

A few ash trees grow on thelargest island. This spec-

tacular site givesyour camera an

excellent oppor-tunity to take

some greatphotos.

Stone work from Solhan old house (16)

Bingöl/Solhan 173

Floating Island (17)

Kale (Ginç) Mosque

The mosque in the village of Kale,20km from Solhan town, there is amosque, a cave, jail and madrasah;there was once a fortress too, Oghnut,now destroyed. According to aninscription, the mosque was built byMeneflkurd Süleyman Bey in 1570. Stillused for worship, the mosque is arectangular construction consisting ofgrey and brown stone and with twogates. Nearby you can spot old tombsbelonging to prominent people. The

jail, located on the cliff, was intendedfor prisoners who had been sentencedto death.

Children on floating island (19)

Zaza woman (18)

Karl›ova (Kanîrefl)


Animal Bazaar (20)

Karl›ova (population 7,985) is situatedon rugged terrain at an altitude ofnearly 2000m. The area is situated ona fault line running through easternAnatolia, and has witnessed manydestructive earthquakes.

According to a tale, a protractedmeeting of officials was unable tocome up with a new name for thedistrict when it became part of the newprovince of Bingöl in 1936.Eavesdropping, the impatient doormanasked if he could make a suggestion.“Look through the window,” he said.“The plain is full of snow, so why don’tyou name it Karl›ova [‘snowy plain’]?”.The doorman’s idea was accepted.

It’s possible to stay in Karl›ova town,which is 72km northeast of Bingöl city,at either the Hotel Karl›da¤ (0426 51123 56) or the ö¤retmenevi (teachers’guesthouse; 0426 511 20 84).

July sees many locals and foreignershere taking part in a festival ofhorsemanship, organised by themunicipality.

The sunrise from Mount Kalatepe

A peak called Kalatepe (3250m) is apopular spot for locals to observe thesunrise; you can reach it by heading7km from Karl›ova to Kargapazar›,then following the signs for thesunrise-view location and continuingfor another 25km. From the car parkjust below the summit, it takes 25minutes to walk all the way up. On aclear day (April to August is when theweather is best), you will see a redglow which turns to gold and finallycrystallizes like a diamond on thehorizon.

Fittingly, a sunrise festival is held inthe town centre over four days in thethird week of July. Besides cultural

Sun-rise in Kalatepe Mt (21)

Bingöl/Karl›ova 175

and music performances, it features abazaar selling handcrafts and, on thethird day, horse racing with partici-pants drawn from around the district.On the afternoon of that day peoplestart heading to Kala peak, where theycamp on the mountainside. At 3amthey climb to the summit in time towatch the sunrise at 4.50am.

Upland plateaus

Something of a natural wonder, dottedwith lakes, the Bingöl Plateau lies atan average height of 2750m. It can bereached by a surfaced road 20km afterKargapazar› village.

Another pretty spot is H›rhal Plateau,2600m up and 20 km away fromKarl›ova town. The plateau lies 5kmfrom the highway to Erzurum.

Around 7km from the Erzurum high-way at altitude of 2570m is the ÇavreflPlateau, which boasts a rich flora andis a site where nomadic tent-dwellersspend the summer months.

Waterfalls

You can enjoy the scenery and fish fortrout at two waterfalls in the area. Oneis south of Devecik (Kurik) village,30km from Karl›ova town; the other isnorthwest of Ba¤l›isa (Baxlu) village,35km from Karl›ova town.

Canyons

There are a number of canyons cutthrough by fast-flowing rivers aroundKaynarp›nar (Liçik), some 20km north-west of Karl›ova town. If you have yourown equipment, you will find this agreat spot to surf.

Hac›lar and Çerme springs

Hac›lar is a popular bathing spot withlocals, and is a good spot for fishing asit’s located by the Göynük River nearHac›lar (Heciyan) village, 35km fromKarl›ova town. Similar is the Çermespring by the Murat River 15km awayfrom Karl›ova town. Here you cancatch delicious catak fish, which arespecific to the region.

Nomad Life (22)

Fishing at Murat river (23)

Kig› (Kêxî)


School girls (24)

The quiet small town of Ki¤› (population3,470) is in a forested upland area 75kmnorthwest of Bingöl town. The town andnearby villages offers you a renege ofsites to visit, such as hamam, schooland some intact Armenian churches.The area is populated mainly by Aleviand Sunni Kurds. Agriculture andlivestock are the dominant ways ofearning a living, though there is littleproduce left over to trade with otherparts of the country. The chief river ofthe district is the delightfully namedPeri Suyu (“fairy water”), which hasbeen put to use generating power viathe Özlüce Dam, with a second damunder construction.

In Roman times the town was ruled byTalon, the son of someone called Kiga,after whom a local fortress was named,and some historians think the towntook its name from that era. In theMiddle Ages and in Ottoman times,people here made a living by miningiron, and in the Mongol period coinswere minted in the town, a practicewhich seems to have continued during

the Akkoyunlu and Ottoman eras,until 1820.

Some locals in the villages believe thatspring only arrives after 13 April, as pera local fable. An old lady with a kid goatwas happy that she had survived asevere winter, but on 13 April a terriblesnowstorm arrived. She tried to protectthe kid under a basket but was shockedto see it had frozen to death the nextday. Locals call the period prior to 13April the “Old Lady Spring” (in Kurdish(gîskê pîrê) and say that any warmsunny days in the run-up to this dateare deceptive.

Kerek Hamam

Centrally located, this Ottoman-erahamam is no longer in use but remainsin reasonable condition. It is divided intoa tepid room, hot room and changingroom; the first part you come to is therectangular changing room which is inthe eastern part. South of here is thevaulted tepid room, from which the hotroom, also vaulted, can be accessed.

Bingöl/Ki¤› 177

Ki¤› Kalesi

Located 2km southeast of town, thisfortress is surrounded by the cliffs andthus reached by a narrow road.According to some sources, thefortress was abandoned after it wasattacked, and the inhabitants settled inan area town which later becameknown as the Kale quarter. Some oldjewellery and household items werefound after archaeological digs. Just200m away are the remains of a churchis the Ottoman Ki¤› School (currentlyused a private house), located in a pri-vate garden.

Piltan Bey Mosque

This wooden-ceilinged mosque, alsocalled the Balaban Mosque, is locatedin the Eski (old) quarter in Ki¤› town notfar from the Ki¤› School. An inscriptionon the minaret mentions the AkkoyunluPir Ali and the year 1402. This is justafter the attacks of Tamerlane, and sothe reference is to a restoration of themosque. Another restoration, probablyon a larger scale, is referred to in theinscription above the minbar, whichmentions 1413.

The prayer hall is rectangular and has around arched portico on its northernside. The mosque is still used forworship.

Güney Mahalle Church

Thought to be a Byzantine church, lateron it become of the largest Armenianchurches of Ki¤›. This ruined structureis located in the southern part of thetown in Aliflan Engin Sokak, in theEskiçarfl› quarter; you’ll find it on theleft among the local houses. It has arectangular plan with three naveswhich end in apses. Most of it is ruined,but front and side walls are stillstanding.

Çanakç› Village Church

Relatively intact, this Armenian church,in Çanakç› village 44km from Ki¤› town,is built on a rectangular plan and isthought to date from the Ottoman era.It shouldn’t be confused with a similarlynamed village in the nearby Adakl›district. The church is largely intact asit was used for Islamic worship after

Kerek Hamam (25)

Piltan Bey mosque (26)

Çanakç› Village church (27)


Armenians left the area. Much of it iscomposed of basalt but the vaultedwindows and door are made of yellowlimestone, and beautifully ornamented.The key to the church can be obtainedfrom the village mukhtar.

Selenk Bridge

This beautiful stone bridge still in usespans over the Peri River, which it’slocated 5km before you entre the townof Ki¤› as you are coming form Bingöl.Built during the reign of OttomanSultan Abdulhamit II, it’s 28m long and

4m wide, and has three arches. A newBridge was build near by the SelenkBridge from where you can fallow thesign to reach the Selenk Bridge. Thebridge is closed to main traffic.

Horses (29)

Selenk Bridge(28)

A child from K›¤› (30)

Mufl tulips (1)

According to one tale, Mufl wasnamed by a Jewish tribe who, fleeingthe Assyrians, settled down in thisarea. The yearbook of Bitlis provincefor 1914 supports this, stating that thename Mufl comes from Hebrew wordmufla meaning a watery fertile field.Another story says that one of thebranches of the Mushki Tribe, whodominated central Anatolia after theoverthrowing of the Hatti civilization,expanded towards the east, settledhere and named the area. For theUrartu State with its large anddeveloped transportationsystem, Mufl was impor-tant as a centre openingto west. In his work“Anabasis” Ksenephonwrites about local peoplein Mufl and surroundingplateaus who supplied wheat,barley, vegetable, meat and caval-ry horses. In 331 BC, Mufl togetherwith whole eastern Anatolia cameunder Macedonian rule and

than taken by Persiansatraps upon thedemise of Alexanderthe Great.

Historically the regionplayed a key role in the

struggle for dominancebetween the Seljuks and the

Byzantines, the eventual triumph ofthe Seljuks being commemorated by amonument in Malazgirt town. In 1915

Mufl 181


405,509 (2007)

Average altitude


DistrictsMufl, Bulan›k, Hasköy, Korkut,

Malazgirt, Varto

EconomyGrapes, Tobacco, Sugar beet,

Wheat, Barley, Livestcok


Bingöl (west), Erzurum (north),

A¤r› (northeast), Bitlis (southeast),

Batman and Diyarbak›r (south)

At aglance

TraditionalMufl rug

(3)

Rug weaving (2)

Varto and in 1916 Mufl was captured byRussians but due to the OctoberRevolution in 1917 Russian troopsretreated.

Subsistence agriculture and livestockare, unsurprisingly, the main sourcesof livelihood. Some grapes, melonsand cabbages are marketed in nearbyprovinces. Locals claim that theirgrapes were once well known abroad,and that the vines, inherited from theArmenians, were brought from Russiain 19th century and became the pro-genitors of some of the vineyards ofBordrux (Fransa). Until recently tobac-co was also a significant crop, andthe tobacco of the region isstill well regardedlocally.

Traditional familylife still domi-nates in Mufl,and some vil-lages still holdspecial rituals tomark births. Whenthe time of labourapproaches, the house iscompletely cleaned, the moth-er wears nice dresses and food pre-pared by neighbours is offered toguests; in fact neighbours see to theneeds of the new mother in the weekafter the birth. The baby will be namedin this first week by family elders, andwhen it is 40 days old, the father takesmother and baby to see his father-in-law and then returns home towelcome guests, who come withpresents for the baby.

The dark red Mufl tulip, whichflowers attractively on the plainof Mufl at the end of April and the startof May, is celebrated at this time in theMufl Tulip Festival. Events includesports competitions and, of course,awards for the best tulips, which aremarketed both domestically and inter-nationally.

Another local event is the H›d›rellezFestival on 6 May, essentially a springfestival (although this festival is com-mon in other regions of Turkey). It ismostly celebrated in green areas byrivers or lakes, and locals consumewild vegetables, lamb and liver, asthese are believed to be good forhealth and well-being. People keeptheir stores and wallets open,believing they will be filled as thewishes made on the night of H›d›rellezare granted by God. Special requestsare written on paper and fastened to arose bush with a red ribbon.

The main attractions of the provinceare the stone-built religious

complex of Alaeddin Beyin Mufl city and the

substantial MalazgirtKalesi, whose mas-sive walls are notunlike those inDiyarbak›r. Alsonoteworthy is the

Surp GarabetMonastery (Dêra

Çengelî) nearby inYa¤c›lar village, which was

once an important Armenian centreof worship and still draws someArmenian visitors today. Otherwise, theprovince has the usual smattering ofold mosques, bridges and tombs, andsome natural attractions in the twoAkdo¤an (Hamurpet/Xamirpêt) lakes– one blue, the other green – and theKunav Caves near Varto town.

Mufl (Mûfl) CityThe provincial capital (population70,509) is a largely modern affair,though with some older neighbour-hoods and a conservative feel. In theevenings lamps in the shape of tulips,symbol of the province, lend someinteresting colour to the city centre.The city has some nice tea gardensand modern cafés. The café on the topof the Mufl Kalesi can be a good choice


Livestock (4)

of visit where also fine view of the citycan be observed and photographed.

Mufl Kalesi andMeryem Ana Church

Centrally located, the kale is one of theoldest parts of Mufl, though the exactdate of its construction is unknown.Most parts of it have been destroyed invarious wars of the years, although thewestern section was restored underthe Seljuks and Ottomans.

Walking down from the kale you willnotice the large Meryem Ana Church,basically a ruin, though a fair bit stillstands. No exact information existsabout when it was built or by whom.

Alaaddin Bey Complex

Located in the Minare Neighbourhood,this stone complex was constructed in

1748 by Ottoman governor AlaaddinBey. Apart from a mosque, which isstill in use, the complex also includesa hamam, madrasah, fountain and his

Mufl 183

Meryen Ana Church (6)

Mufl houses (5)

Mufl is wellknown as thebirthplace ofHuseynêOrgînosî(appropriatelyalso known

as Huseynê Mûflî), sometimesreferred to as the king of alldengbêj singers, who wasborn in nearby Orgînos villagein 1936, into a family wherehis grandfather, father andmost of his siblings were alsodengbêjs. He passed away in2001, a short time after oneof the most important figuresin his love songs, his wifeDîlber, had died. His talentednephew Delîl Dîlanar is nowwell known among Kurds inEurope, where he is based, asa dengbêj performer (ForZahiro dengbêj see Bulan›kp: 192).

A Dengbêj from Mufl:Huseynê Orgînosî

Huseynê Mûflî (7)

mausoleum. The minaret, on the westside of the mosque, is square with anoctagonal base and one balcony.

Built of stone and brick, thehamam is still in use, but it haslost some of its original charac-ter due to various additions andrenovations, most recently in1948. The hamam is on a rec-tangular plan and is divided intocold, warm and hot sections,

the last of which is domed. Thehot room also has bathing cubi-

cles in all four corners, witha central message platform. The

fountain sits in a circular niche andhas a raised pool behind.

The graves of Alaeddin Bey, his wifeand daughter lie in a domed mau-soleum in the northwest corner ofthe complex. A marble headstonehere bears the dates (AH)1158/1171.

‹brahim Samidi Tomb

The tomb of one ‹brahim Samidi islocated in the garden next to theAlaaddin Bey Hamam›.Constructed in 1888 of stoneblocks as well as rubble stone,the tomb has a crypt and anupper floor with two sec-tions, one of which contains amihrab. The door in the eastside of this section gives accessto the tomb where the sarcoph-agus is located. People believethat the mental illness andmalaria can be cured by visit-ing, and pilgrimages hereare common.

Ulu Cami

Also in the MinareNeighbourhood, westof Alaaddin Bey andHac› fieref Mosques,the Ulu Cami isthought to have beenbuilt by SheikhAlâeddin Bey (8)

Muhammed in 979. It is believed thatthe structure on the west side mighthave been an annex added later, and asmall mihrab has been placed here.The minaret is a modern addition, hav-ing been built in 1968, damaged in aquake and renovated in 1972. On arectangular plan, it is ornamented withzigzag lines.

Hac› fieref Mosque

Located close to the Ulu Cami, theHac› fieref Mosque was built in 743and renovated a number of timesbetween 1036 and 1309, according toinscriptions. On a square plan, it has

nine domes, though decoration islimited. The minaret, built in 1902, isa little more eye catching, with colour-ful stones arranged to create zigzagand geometrical patterns.

Y›ld›zl› Caravanserai

Located in the city centre’s upperbazaar, this two-storey stonecaravanserai was built by Seyfi Bey in1889, and survived some damage by theRussian army in 1916. There is a deco-rative entrance gate, through which youwill find a ground floor built of stonewhile the upper floor consists of brickand rough stone. Jewellers, copper-

Mufl 185

Besides theusual road andrail transportconnections,Mufl is servedby flights operated byTurkish airwaysand other airlines.

The Park Lokantas›,Belediye Önü (0436 212 2740), does traditionalmeals, including kebabsand some vegetarian fare,with a seasonal menu.Next to the restaurant is anice tea garden with twofish ponds. For kebabsand grills, try the Alt›n fiiflKebap, on Erzurum Cad(0436 212 51 43).

Accommodation Places to eatGetting there

(9)

Municipality: 0 436 215 20 97 Tourist information: 0 436 212 10 15

The Dap Hotel, AtatürkBulvar› Sok 6, No 2(0436 212 98 11) is athree-star place,terrace restaurant withviews of the mountainsand the Mufl plains.Similar is the ZümrütOtel, on ‹stasyon Cad (0436 212 96 05), withsome 70 rooms.

A child from Mufl


smiths, silver shops and drapersoccupied the ground floor while theupper floor, which may have beenadded later, was used foraccommodation.

Haspet Kalesi

This fortress is located on a hillsidewhich forms part of the eastern exten-sion of Ziyaret Mountain, 9km south oftown. Natural disasters have destroyedall of the structure apart from somewalls and two watchtowers in So¤ucak(Mongok) village downhill.

The precise age of the kale isunknown, though it is associated witha tale involving Alexander the Great.On his way to capture Egypt, heinstructed one of his commanders,Beatlis, to build an impregnable

fortress. Upon Alexander’s return hefound the castle completed and triedseveral times to attack the castle,unsuccessfully. He sent an envoy tothe fortress and this drew somepeople from within the fortress to talkto him. Alexander asked them, “Tellme who dares to irritate the army of acommander trying to capture thewhole world.” They replied, “We arethe lords of Gur. You irritated usentering our land.” MeanwhileCommander Beatlis went to Alexanderto hand over the castle, saying, “I builtthis castle upon your instruction and itstopped the strongest army in theworld, thus carrying out my mission.I am ready to hand over the keys of thecastle.” Alexander was happy with theanswer and forgave the commander(similar story is told for Bitlis Castle).

Haspet Kalesi (11)

Murat Bridge (10)

Murat Bridge

Located 10km north oftown on the Varto road, thisstone bridge spans MuratRiver. The materials used andstructure of the bridge suggest itcould have been built by the Seljuks inthe 13th century. With 12 sharp-point-ed arches, the bridge is 143m long.The arches have large stone baseswith a triangular shape that helpsreduce the damaging effect of strongflows.

Surp Garabet Monastery(Dêra Çengelî)

Surp Garabet is located on the slopesof the fierafettin Mountains (Çiyayênfierefdînê) in Ya¤c›lar (Dêra Çengelî)village, 21km from Mufl city. This wasonce a sun temple, before becoming amonastery and used as a centre ofeducation by the Armenians in 399.Built of stone on a rectangular plan, itis in ruins, with only the arches in theeastern walls still stand-ing, but was once a sig-nificant and substantialmonastery, with 360rooms and a domedchapel. Some bas-reliefs can still beseen and there once ahuge bell here whichwas audible from along distance (the oldKurdish name derivesfrom this fact).

Tourists, mainlyArmenians and Christian’smissionaries, are drawnto the site today. If youwalk around the village too, you maysee parts of the monastery that havebeen recycled into the walls of localhomes, and villagers may even offerto see you bits of stone or other arte-facts from monastery.

To reach thesite, head outfrom Mufl on theBingöl highway.Just before youpass small town ofYayg›n (Nahye),turn right to sta-bilised village roadand follow signs forYa¤c›lar.

Sironk Church(Dêra Sirongê)

Located in K›rköy (Sirong) village,30km from the city centre, you willfind this church dating back to 651.

Though only the adobewalls still stand, thechurch still drawsChristian visitors everyyear, mainly fromGermany and otherEuropean destinations.

Winter Tourism- MuflSki Center

The Skier house and twobaby-lift lines are locatedon the way of Kulp-Muflnear the village of

Güzeltepe (Ajmanûk) some9km away from Mufl centre.This facility was built to usein winters, however it can

serve the guests in other seasonswho want to stay for trekking, ormountain tourism. The ski houseoffers you with a café serving hot andcold drinks. The snow season startsin November and ends in April.

Mufl 187

Winter Tourism (13)

A motif from Surp Garabet Monastrery (12)

Varto (population 10,764) is located45km north of Mufl city. There aretales surrounding both the old andnew names of the town: Varto couldderive from the Armenian name ofVartan, while Gimgim could be derivedfrom the word used for the volcanicrumblings locals heard in thesurrounding mountains.

The history of Varto goes back toUrartians, and indeed some Urartianartefacts were unearthed in the 1960sby archeological digs in Kayal›dere(Xinzora jêr) village. The district played

a prominent role in the Kurdishuprising of the mid-1920s, with theultimate aim of establishing a Kurdishstate in the region, led by Colonel HalilBey of Cibran (Xalid Begê Cibranî),chief of the Cibranl› tribe influential inVarto, Bulan›k and Malazgirt, and alsothe president of the Kurdish LiberationAssociation (Azadî Örgütü). After thisabortive uprising, Halil Bey was firstexiled to Erzurum and then executedin Bitlis on 14 April 1925. Earlier in thesame year, there was another Kurdishrebellion associated with Sheikh Said,starting on 13 February 1925 on alarge territory comprising Mufl, Elaz›¤,Genç and Diyarbak›r. In the course ofevents, Sheikh Said and his companywere caught by Turkish military troopsnear Evdirehmanpafla (Abdulrahman)Bridge (see p: 170) in this area andthey were hanged in Diyarbak›r on 27May 1925.

Varto is located on the EasternAnatolia fault line, and there weredestructive earthquakes here in 1946


Ko¤ Festival, horse racing (14)

Folk dance (15)

Varto (Gimgim)

and 1966. Most of the inhabitants areSunni Kurds, but there are significantcommunities of Alevi Zaza speakers inVarto and nearby villages, thesecommunities in Varto haveexcellent relationshipswith one and another,a wonderful but hid-den testament to thekinds of everydayinterfaith sense ofcamaraderie whichexists in daily lives butrarely makes headlines.

Interestingly Varto has largegroups in diaspora who contribute tothe economy; you will be surprised tosee many stores, restaurant andhotels which are named afterEuropean capital cities such as Paris,Berlin…

The municipality arranges the VartoKo¤ Festival in mid-July, featuring artworkshops and exhibitions. On the lastday of the event, people drive an hourto Mount Ko¤, 15km from town, fora concert. Some choose to camp uphere and next day ascend to thesummit to observe the sunrise.Unusually, the area has two troutfarms in addition to the usual activi-

ties of agriculture and livestockfarming. Just 1km away is the Do¤anAlabal›k Tesisleri, serving fresh fish

and alcohol in a beautifulriverside garden.

The Tombs of Boylu(Kêrs) Village

Some Urartian tombsare dug out of the topof the highest hills

east and south ofBoylu village, 15km

east of Varto town.Reaching the site requires ten

to fifteen minutes’ climb. The smallerof two caves containing the tombs isjust behind the village while the largeris further south; both are now used asshelters for animals. You can enterthe rock tombs and will find sar-cophagi and huge graves inside. Don’tleave the village without refreshingyourself with a drink from the coolvillage spring next to the Ulu Cami.

Kunav Caves

These caves are located in Kayadelen(Kunav) village, some 18km east ofVarto town. Reached by a path, thefirst cave is about 25m above groundlevel, and gives access to the next

Mufl/Varto 189

Kunav Caves (17)

Ko¤ Festival (16)

cave from its western side. Then youwill see a creek flowing through, whichwas responsible for creating the caveitself. The dark passages and noises ofbats can be a bit eerie.

Kayal›dere Kale

Offering a good view over the MuratRiver, the fortress is located nearKayal›dere (Xinzora jêr) village, 22kmsoutheast of Varto, and can be reachedby a half-hour bus ride. It is thought todate back to the reign of the UrartianKing Sarduri II, in the mid-8th centuryBC. Archaeological work on the castleand Ancient City in 1964 uncovered theruins of a temple, a tower anda palace. There are also storage areasand rock tombs, consisting of a

passageway and six burial chambers.Artifacts found, among which area bronze lion, buttons, arrowheads andbronze needles, are exhibited inAnkara’s Museum of AnatolianCivilizations.

The construction date of the castlewas assumed to be from the UrartuKing II. Sarduri period (BC 735 - 764)and is still mostly intact. The templehas a stone floored courtyard anda bronze statue of a lion in sittingposition dated BC VII.

Hamurpet Lakes(Golên Xamirpêtê)

Two volcanic lakes, both calledHamurpet, are situated west of theAkdo¤an Mountains, in the east of thedistrict. The larger of the two is 2149mand covers 13 square kilometres.Nourished with spring melt water, thelake has a greenish hue and is popu-lated with carp, ducks, geese andbeavers. Just a few hundred metresaway is the smaller lake, a circularbody of water which is blue because itis much deeper than its larger cousin.The lakes are popular for weekendpicnics, carp- and trout-fishing and


Hamurpet Lakes (18)

Kayal›dere Kalesi (19)

bird-watching. The closest village tothe lakes is ‹skender. While travelingnote some section of the stone maderoad built by the Russian army,a reminder of the Russian occupation.

Gadiza Waterfall

With a height of 15m, these falls arelocated in Ozankent (Gadiza) village onthe slopes of the Bingöl Mountains.The views from here are good and thearea is popular among locals forpicnics, but you will need to walk upfor 20 minutes from the end of theroad before reaching the falls.The village itself is 15km northwestof Varto.

Kaynarca Bridge andBarikon Hot String

This three-arched stone bridge islocated in Kaynarca (Baflkan) village,21km west of Varto town. Witha height of 4m and a length of 43m,the bridge spans the Kaynarca River(a branch of the Murat River), and issaid to have been built by Armenian

craftsmen; it was restored in 2007 andis in use. Unfortunately the Ottoman-era inscription on the bridge isillegible and thus no precise age canbe given for the bridge.

Close to the bridge are the BarikonSprings, no more than a small pondwith no formal facilities. The watersare said to cure liver and stomachailments and are popular with youthsand children.

Mufl/Varto 191

Kaynarca Bridge (21)

Barikon Thermal Spring (20)

East of Mufl city is Bulan›k (popu-lation 20,727) some 105km awayfrom Mufl city; it is the largestdistrict of the province in terms ofarea and population. It is boundedby Haçl› Lake to the south (a goodsite for fishing as well asbird-watching – pelicans,cormorants and a type of duckcan be seen here) and the MuratRiver to the north. Melt waterfrom the peaks is clear until itbecomes muddy in the lake itself,hence the name of the district(Bulan›k means “muddy”). Thelarge prairies of the district areagriculturally productive, yieldingcrops such as wheat, barley andsugar beet, while some fishing onthe lake is also of someimportance.

Traditional two-storey houses canstill be seen here, accommodatinglivestock below with the familyabove. Bulan›k also has someinteresting old mosquesand tombs.

Esenlik (Abirî) Village Mosque andSheikh ‹brahim Tomb

Located 30km southwest ofBulan›k town, this mosque isthought to have been built by theArtukids, and is still used forworship. The structure, lastrestored in 1985, has two naves,four domes and a mihrab.

On the hilltop opposite is the tombof Sheikh ‹brahim (and that of hisson). The construction andmaterials suggest it dates fromthe 16th century. Rectangular in


Stone house (22)

Bulan›k (Kop)

Another claim to fame of thedistrict is that it is the birth-place of one of the mostwell-known Kurdish dengbêjsingers in the country,Zahiro. He lived here until1993, but has since moved toAyd›n province in westernTurkey.

Dengbêj Zahiro

plan, it is covered with barrelvaults. As for the sheikh, he isbelieved to have been the followerof the teachings of the great Sufimystic Jalal-ud-Din Rumi. Localsmake pilgrimages here in thehope of being cured of theirillnesses.

Mollakent Village

Located in Mollakent village 35kmfrom Bulan›k is a this steeplyvaulted mosque which has severaldomes and is flanked by a grave-yard, the ruins of an old mosqueto the west and a dervish lodge tothe north. According to inscrip-tions on the tablet on the door, itwas built by one Sheikh ‹brahimin 1878.

To the south is a simple madrasahwith a room to either side of theentrance. It was built by a certainSheikh Abdurrahman in 1818. It isnow a private residence.

Also in the village you will find thetomb of Sheikh Ömer Sahubi, builtof stone with a rectangular plan,and with a layered roof. Little isknown about Ömer himself, but itis rumoured that he had aguesthouse and kitchen built atthe site of tomb. Locals believethat staying in his tombovernight cures people of epilepsy.

The local cemetery has manybeautifully decorated entrancesmade of yellow and black stone,and containing the graves oflocally important religiousleaders.

Mufl/Bulan›k 193

Esenlik mosque (25)

Mollakent graveyards (23)

Mollakent graveyard entrances (24)

The easternmostdistrict of theprovince is127km awayfrom Mufl city,Malazgirt (popu-lation 20,987) lieson the northshore of Lake Van. Historical tabletssay that the Urartian King Menuasbuilt a city named Menuahina afterhimself, a name which eventuallybecame Malazgirt. The district wasa key battleground in the conflictbetween the Byzantines and Seljuks in1071. The Seljuks were triumphant andcaptured the Byzantine ruler who wastaken into the presence of Seljukleader. The conflict proved a turningpoint, shifting the balance of powercompletely in favour of the Seljuks andSunni Muslims, spelling the beginningof the end for the Byzantines andopening the door to Turkish domina-tion in Asia Minor. A large monumentto the battle, called the AlpaslanMonument after the Seljuk leader ofthe time, has been built in Malazgirt

town. 28 of Augusteach year a formalceremony calledMalazgirt Zaferiheld nearby theMonument to markthis victory.

Agriculture and livestock, includingcattle rearing, are the main sources oflivelihood, helped by a 28km irrigationpipeline which enables a good harvestof sugar beet, melons, wheat, barleyand lentils.

A well-known local tale says that fire-worshippers led by a shah calledTeymus once lived around Malazgirt’scitadel. One of the Shah’s sons, Beflir,converted to Islam and was punishedby his father by having his tongue cutout. Beflir left Malazgirt and cameeventually to Mecca where he metCaliph Ali and told him his story. Alicame to Malazgirt with an army anddeposed the Shah, but the soldierscould not drink water from thefountain as it was full of snakes. Aliprayed the snakes to leave, and they


Malazgirt (Milazgir

A view from inside Malazgirt Kalesi (27)

A vi

ew fr

om M

alaz

girt

(26)

duly went into a well in fianedervillage (nowadays it is a quarter of thetown). Even today, says the tale, thewell is full of snakes between 15 Mayand 15 June each year, though thesnakes are not venomous and notaggressive even if touched.

Malazgirt Kalesi

There are four major historicalfortresses in the district, the mostimportant of which is Malazgirt Kalesi,in the Mengüç Gazi quarter. It hasdouble walls, with a 5m gap betweeneach, and is in two parts: a citadelsurrounding the old town, unlikeDiyarbak›r’s city walls, with a fortressin the centre itself. Its precise age isunknown, though the seventeenth-century traveller Evliya Çelebi wrotethat the castle was attacked byTamerlane. “It has [within] twothousand houses, a mosque, twomadrasahs, a small bath, an inn, fiftystores and seven schools forchildren,” he also wrote. The wallsincluded some bastion towers, butsome parts have been destroyed by

earthquakes. Nowadays part of theinterior has been turned intorefreshing park. Stone-paved pathslead down to the creek which oncefurnished the water supply.

The key to the fortress can beobtained from the security guard atthe park. Good views can be had fromthe top of the site, while in the parkafterwards you can rest over a cup offresh tea.

K›z Bridge

Located 2km from Malazgirt towncentre of the Saftekin quarter, thesimply constructed Girl Bridge (as itsname translates) is comprised of twoslabs that are 5m long and 1m wide.The bridge was built by order of theking for his daughter, though exactlywhen is unknown.

Hatun Bridge

On the main road to Bulan›k, at theend of Murat quarter, this bridge hasa single arch and made up of Horasanplaster and stone. Though its age and

Mufl/Malazgirt 195

Malazgirt Kalesi (28)


Hatun Bridge (29)

K›z Bridge (30)

the name of the builder are not known,its style leads people to assume that itdates from the Seljuk era. The bridge,spanning the fiekrik River, is no longerused by vehicles as it has been super-seded by a modern bridge; nowadaysit’s a popular spot for angling.

Bostan Kale

Another Urartian structure, this lies17km from Malazgirt town in thevillage of Bostankale. It was built byhollowing out a huge rocky mass.Steps were carved into the south sideof the rock, and when you visit you willsee more excavated rock used forwheat stores and water tanks. To the

north there are the small ruins of achurch, identifiable by stones bearingcrosses.

T›k›zl› Kale

Located in T›k›zl› (Fiflva) village 44kmfrom Malazgirt town, this fortress wasbuilt by the Urartians, probably in the8th century BC. Large rocks were piledup to create it without any plasteringmaterials, and it had an inner andouter keep. The 4m-thick walls in thenorthern section of the inner wall arereasonably well preserved and standup to 2m high, but the outer wall hasbeen reduced to lines of a few stones.

Yedi Kardefl tower (1)

On the west bank of the Tigris,Diyarbak›r has been one of the mainsettlements of the regionthroughout history. Stone tools andother artefacts unearthed in theprovince reveal that the area hascontinuously been settled sincePalaeolithic times. The Hurrians andMitannis were the first civilisationshere, and they were followed by theHittites, Assyrians, Medes,Achaemenids, Parthians, Romans,Byzantines and so forth. In the earlyyears of Christianity the city was animportant religious centre called Amidand produced many theologians, someof whom are buried in the Virgin MaryChurch. Muslim did conquestDiyarbak›r in 639 by Halid bin Velid,one of the commanders of the armyled by Îyâz bin Ganm who was giventhe mission of conquering el-Cezire.

Once Islam gained dominance in theregion, Diyarbak›r was ruled in the10th and 11th centuries by Mervanids,a Kurdish dynasty. Persian travellerand literary man Nâs›r-› Hüsrev whovisited Diyarbak›r in late 1046 duringthe reign of Mervani RulerNasrüddevle (1021-1061) gives someinformation about the city in his worktitled “Sefernâme”. According toHüsrev, the city is on a huge rock, sur-rounded by black walls; he nameseastern, western, northern and south

ern gates as “Tigris”, “Rum”, “Ermen”and “Tel”, respectively. He also men-tions the existence of a water right atthe middle of the city whose source isunknown and then describes theGrand Mosque and city walls. Thebattle of Malazgirt in 1071 cementedMuslim control over Anatolia and thedecline of the Byzantines, althoughDiyarbak›r was not captured by theMuslims until 7th century. ThereafterDiyarbak›r and the rest of the regioncame under the Seljuks, Artukids,‹naldis, Ayyubids, Karakoyunlus,Akkoyunlus and Ottomans.



1,460,714 (2007)

Average altitude


DistrictsDiyarbak›r, Bismil, Çermik, Ç›nar,

Çüngüs, Dicle, E¤il, Ergani, Hani,

Hazro, Kocaköy, Kulp, Lice, Silvan

EconomyAgriculture, Livestock farming, Light

industry, Commerce, Tourism


Ad›yaman, Malatya and fianl›urfa (west),

Bingöl and Elaz›¤ (north), Mufl (north-

east), Batman (east), Mardin (south)

At aglance

An old picture of Diyarbak›r nargile house/tea house (2)

The province is not particularly green:the plains which make up much of theprovince are green in springtime, butotherwise vegetation amounts topatches of oak forest on the hills.Mount Kolubaba (1957m) in theKaracada¤ range is as mountainousas Diyarbak›r gets. The local economyis dominated by agriculture, includingthe cultivation of cereals, pulses,cotton and fruits. Diyarbak›r is animportant point for commerce, servedas it is by the railway betweenIstanbul and Batman; Bismil alsonorth east of Diyarbak›r has some oilresources while copper is found inErgani district, and Kulp is an impor-tant sericulture centre.

Diyarbak›r is the northern gateway tothe Fertile Crescent of Mesopotamiaand, as the largest city in the south-east of Turkey, is indeed the placetourists naturally gravitate towardswhen visiting here. The substantialcity walls are the most obvioussight, but even morerewarding is theintroductionthat the cityoffers to thecomplex reli-gious and culturalmake-up of this part ofTurkey – evident in itsmosques, churches and distinc-tively Kurdish flavour. If you havecome to southeastern Turkey to getsome deeper insight into the regionbeyond what makes it into the newsheadlines and to understand its peo-ples, then this is the ideal place tostart, particularly if you can be here

during the Kurdish Newroz Festival(see p: 248).

Elsewhere in the province, Silvantown has the large and beautifullydecorated Selahaddin Eyyubi Camii,while nearby is the famous MalabadiBridge, an enormous stone structureand one of the most famous of itskind in Turkey. The province also hasa popular spa resort at Çermik,where numerous hotels and guest-houses cluster around a hot-springcomplex. If you have a thing forcaves, head to Birkleyn, where thereare inscriptions and reliefs datingback to the Assyrians, or to

Sevenp›nar,where the Hilar

caves containvarious rock

tombs, also withancient reliefs. Thereare yet more rock

tombs near the DicleDam in E¤il district, andreachable by boat.

Besides plenty of Islamic architec-ture, the province is also home to anold synagogue at Çermik, and severalchurches including a substantial oneat Çüngüfl. Finally, if you want to seesilk being produced – unusual inTurkey – head to the Kulp district.

Diyarbak›r 201

Newroz in Diyarbak›r (3)

Diyarbak›r city walls (5)

Diyarbak›r old townfrom the sky

(4)


Diyarbak›r CityIt is the largest city of not just easternTurkey but the whole Kurdish-speak-ing world, what is significant about thecity’s obvious pride in its Kurdish iden-tity is that it has given Diyarbak›r theconfidence to blend itself into the fab-ric of modern Turkey, more so thansome expect; these days theDiyarbak›rians here are just as likely tospeak Turkish as Kurdish, and they doso with a unique accent.

And as visitors soon discover, for themost part Diyarbak›r (population592,557) is a likeable and surprisinglyprogressive city, with some worthwhilemonuments, a thriving university, livelyrestaurants and atmospheric old tea-houses. Walking down the streets ofold town, you may find studentsbefriending you in order to practisetheir English and they will point outthe finer points of Kurdish dress, thenuances of the Zaza and Kurmanji, andeven which Kurdish cassettes areespecially worth hearing.

Most tourists are naturally drawn tothe old city, encircled by huge walls ofblack stone and overlooking the quietHevsel Gardens and farmlands of theTigris Valley to the east. It’s possible toascend various sections of the wall forgreat views of the surroundingcountryside as well as the bustlingstreets within the old city. Here youwill also find a number of attractive oldmosques as well as two fully openedchurches and some ruined ones,bearing mute witness to the nowlargely vanished Christian community.Things seemed more multicultural tothe traveller Edmund Naumann, visit-ing in 1890, who described seeing“dervishes in fantastic clothes,religious Keldanimen [ChaldeanChristians]… Turks and Christians andstill many others… An Armenian shoeshop, with red, yellow and greenleathers at the front and a lot ofArmenians working inside was beauti-ful enough to inspire one to point.”Today the diversity is less obvious,though it is there in the presence ofKurmanji- and Zazaki-speaking Kurds,ethnic Turkish students and a smallArab minority. Despite a surprisingamount of modern architecture, thereare still districts of old houses andalleyways. Also visible are theremnants of shantytowns that sprangup after a massive influx of Kurds fromthe countryside caused by the troubles

Far view of the walls (6)

Photo taken in 1873. On the right a Kurd fromCizre, Center, a Kurd of Mardin and a shepherd

from Diyarbek›r (7)

of recent decades, though these arenow gradually being removed.

The effects of that influx are alsoevident in the new city, whosehigh-rise neighbourhoods sprawl tothe west and north of the city walls.Few tourists spend much time here,but it’s worth having a look around thebustling Ofis area, in particular therestaurants and cafés of Sanat Soka¤›(Art Street). All in all, Diyarbak›rdeserves a stay of at least a couple ofdays, though you’ll get a much betterappreciation of the place if you canhang around for double that time.

After Newroz (see p.248), organised byMunicipality, Diyarbak›r’s Culture andArt Festival is the city’s main festivaland attracts some international per-formers. Over the space of a week inlate May/early June events are held atdozens of venues in the city centre –including in the open-air near Da¤Kap› – and in other towns in theprovince. The programme featuresconcerts, film screenings, folkloricdances, shows involving acrobats andclowns, and so forth, and there alsopanel discussions and seminars on theart and literature of the region.

Da¤ Kap› to Mardin Kap›Gazi Cad, the main north–south thor-oughfare in the old city, connects Da¤Kap› (the north gate in the city walls)with Mardin Kap› (the south gate) overa distance of just under 1500m. Thissection covers the two gates plusattractions along, or just off, Gazi Cad.

Da¤ Kap› (Derîyê Çîyê)

You’re bound to pass through Da¤ Kap›(called Harput Kap› in the past), the

Diyarbak›r 203

Da¤kap› tower (8)

Diyarbak›r city centre, Ofis (9)

Among many figuresfrom the arts to havecome from Diyarbak›ris the poetAhmed Arif, bornhere in 1927.He studied philosophyat Ankara Universityand was arrested onpolitical grounds in1950, serving two years in prison.His fame derives from just oneanthology, Hasretinden PrangalarEskittim, which became highlypopular after its publication in1968. He died in 1991. Also promi-nent was the writer and poet CahitS›tk› Taranc› (Huseyin Cahit), bornin Diyarbak›r in 1910. Educated inIstanbul, he learnedFrench in school andstarted to read the poemsof French poets such asBaudelaire and Verlaine.Eventually he went tostudy politics in Paris,where he worked as anannouncer on a Turkish-language station; returningto Turkey, he did some work for thestate as an interpreter. His poemstended to be about death and deso-lation; his most well-known work is

Yafl 35. He died in1956 and is buried inAnkara.

Another of the city’sliterary figures is theArmenian writerM›g›rdiç Margosyan,born in the Hançepekquarter of the old cityin 1938. He has written

short stories in Armenian, publishedin the award-winning collection MerAyt Go¤mer› (“My Hometown”),and often describes the life ofArmenians in Diyarbak›r and theirrelations with other groups. He con-tinues to work as a columnist withnational newspapers. Another

Armenian writer from thecity is Jaklin Çelik, bornhere in 1968, though shewent to Istanbul as achild. She was the editorof the well-knownTurkish-Armeniannewspaper, Agos, and inher writing she tries toillustrate that Armeniansaren’t foreign to this

terrain, and that all tribes and creedsface the same issues and can try tosolve their problems in solidarity.

Some prominent people from Diyarbakir


northern gate, at some point: the areaaround contains numerous hotels andrestaurants, and the tourist office is inthe square just outside. The gate isplaced between two cylindrical towersand consists of an arch with twocolumns bearing reliefs of variousanimals as well as several inscriptionsincluding one in Latin from the time ofRoman Emperor Valentinianus andone in Greek from the reign ofByzantine Emperor Theodosius II. Theupper floor houses a small prayer areaof Mervanian provenance, while theground floor and the basement of thistwo storey structure are used as an art

gallery and tourist office. On the southside of the gate is a pilgrimage sitecontaining the graves of Sahat B›niVakkas and Ebulmuhsin.

Nebi Camii

This much-visited mosque is located innorthern west of the crossroad whereGazi and ‹nönü Streets intersect in‹nönü Quarter. The minaret, accordingto the inscription on it, was built by alocal butcher named Hac› Hüseyin in1530. This mosque has a spaciouscourtyard somehow larger than themosque itself. The portico is decorated

Ahmed Arif (10)

M›g›rdiç Margosyan (11)

One famousface you maysee inDiyarbak›r inphotos dis-played aroundtown is thatof Ayfle fian,born in 1938into a familywhere the

men were dengbêjs. She started tosing at a tea garden in 1963 andquickly made a name for herself,but restrictions on the use of theKurdish language made it difficultfor her to record commercially. AJewish man from ‹stanbul, AlbertMesulum, decided to take a riskand got her to record four songs,two in Turkish and two in Kurdishso as not to attract accusations offavouring “separatism”. It was animmediate success and after thatshe made many records, thoughthese were banned after the mili-tary coup of March. Ayfle fian leftfor Germany in 1971 where shelived for 3 years; subsequently shewent to live in northern Iraqbefore returning to Turkey to livein ‹zmir. She died in 1996, but isstill fondly remembered as the firstfemale singer in Turkey to recordin Kurdish.

It is a sad song by a woman in lovewith a married man. To be with herbeloved one, the woman is evenready to be his second wife, but shenever accomplishes her wish.

Some prominent people from Diyarbakir

Bavê fiukrîfiukrî’s FatherHawer delal, hawer delal tu delal î kuroHawer delal, hawer delal tu delal î kuroCome, come to me you the handsome manCome, come to me you the handsome manDelal qurban migo, çem û çemê BiflêriyêWî delal qurban mi dî kelekçiya kelek vala berda dû gemiyêWî delal qurban migo,koloz xwefl e lo li ber kofiyêWî delal qurban migo zewac xwefl e li zozanê jorîn li koçeriyêAx hawer delal,hawer delal,hawer delal tu delal î kuro

I said “May I sacrifice my head for you my handsome man”River, the Besiri River“May I sacrifice my head for you my handsome man?”The river drivers’ empty rafts are following a shipI said “ May I sacrifice my head for you my handsome man”Conical hat would be good with coifI said “ May I sacrifice my head for you my handsome man”Marriage is good at uplands, nomadic life…Oh Come, come to me you the handsome man

Diyarbak›r 205

with colourful mosaics. Featuringalternating bands of black and whitestone, the mosque also hasa hexagonal, elevated roof where youwould expect the dome to be. Themihrab is decorated with tiles, whilethe minaret was built in its currentspot at the start of the 20th century,partly with material from the originalminaret which was demolished. Theimportance of the minaret is that itrepresents a bridge betweenAkkoyunlu and Ottoman styles.

By the south wall of the mosque isa tomb built by governor Köprülüzade

Abdullah Pafla in 1718 for his wifeZübeyde Han›m and daughter LeylaHan›m; one Hac› Abdullah Bey is alsoburied here. Built of black stone, thetomb is square in plan and has archesscreened by iron grilles on all foursides.

Opposite the mosque on the east sideof Gazi Cad is a street which leadseast to the ‹çkale (see p: 228).

Vahap A¤a Hamam›

In Telgrafhane Sok. a little way southof the Nebi Mosque, this disused 16th-or 17th-century hamam is on the west

Eyfle flan (12)


side of Gazi Cad opposite the policestation. It’s said that in the past, allnew visitors to the city were requiredto take a bath in one of the hamams,and for this purpose hamams wereplaced close to all the four main citygates. These days, however, most ofthe hamams are disused, thoughsome are due for restoration.

Stone blocks have beenused for the areasclose to entrance anduncut stones for theother parts. Thechanging room isdivided into three

sections, the side areas being coveredwith barrel vaults while there is adome over the central section. Thewarm room is likewise domed. An areaof private cubicles has a marble poolin its centre and a couple of iwans.

Hasan Pasha Han

You can’t miss this han, with its alter-nating black and white stone stripes;it’s the most well known of severalhans in the city which were basicallycaravanserais, and is located on theeast side of Gazi Cad about 100msouth of the Nebi Mosque. The hanwas built between 1572 and 1575 byHasan Pasha, the son of provincialgovernor Sokullu Mehmet Pafla.Simeon of Poland, a traveller whovisited in 1612, wrote that the han “hadtwo stables for 500 horses, a gorgeous

fountain and several stonechambers on three

floors”. He alsodescribed the upperfloor as having manysleeping quarters,while adjacent tohan was a bazaar

for jewellers, knife-

Vahap A¤a Hamam (13)

Hasan Pafla Han(14)

A view from Hasan Pafla Han (15)

Diyarbak›r 207

makers, shoemakers and othercraftsmen.

The han was recently restoredand is now basically a col-lection of souvenirshops and galleries,open till late, tuckedinto the varioussmall rooms liningthe aisles around thespacious courtyard.Even if you don’t wantto buy anything, it’s wortha visit just to admire the all-pervading striped stonework andto pace up and down the numerousnarrow flights of steps that give accessto the upper floor. From above you geta good view over the atmosphericcourtyard with its central fountain,covered with a cupola.

The Gold Bazaar

Just south of Hasan Pafla Han› is thegold bazaar (Kuyumcular Çarfl›s› inTurkish or Bazara zêrfiroflan inKurdish), perhaps unsurprisingly thesmartest bazaar in Diyarbak›r. Until1987 this was an area where meat wassold; now you’ll find a number ofstores selling beautiful gold and silverjewellery. The silversmiths arepeerless masters in making silver jugsand goldsmiths are just as skilful atmaking traditional women’s jewellery.Further in are more bazaars,covered on p:210.

Çifte Han (Bursa Han›)

Another han is located 50m south ofHasan Pafla Han and opposite the UluCami; look for it on the east side ofGazi Cad in the Dabano¤lu quarter,specifically Çiftehan Sok, which ispacked with restaurants and shops.Said to date back to the 16th century,this was once two hans built of basaltblocks; ‹nciciyan, an Armenian writerwho visited Diyarbak›r in the 18thcentury, wrote in 1804 that this was

the largest han in the city. One hanwas demolished in 1940 for a road tobe built, while the ground floor of the

remaining building was con-verted into shops, though

today it is occupied by ateahouse. The floorabove comprises por-ticos behind which thesleeping quarterswere located; now it is

in state of disrepairawaiting restoration.

Ulu Cami (Mizgefta Mezin)

On the west side of Gazi Cadopposite the two hans is Diyarbak›r’sUlu Cami, which introduces itself withan entrance portal on which appearsa depiction of a lion attacking a bull.The mosque is said to have been con-verted from the Mar Toma Churchafter the city was conquered by theArabs in 639, in fact it was first con-structed as a pagan temple. The geog-rapher al-Muqqadasi mentioned aGreat Mosque in the city at the end ofthe 10th century. Also the Persiantraveller Nasir-i Khusraw wrote aboutthis mosque which he saw in 1046,though his description does not matchthe mosque standing now. The earliestinscriptions on the mosque make clear

Ulu Cami sun clock(17)

Gold Bazaar(16)


that it began to be rebuilt in 1091/92during the reign of the SeljukMelikflah. Earlier on in his reign, someadditions were made to the GreatMosque ofDamascus, whichmay be why theplan of Diyarbak›r’sUlu Cami bears astriking similarity tothe Great Mosque inDamascus.

Marble columnswith reliefs and lav-ish decorations, most probably fromthe Roman period, the fountain withoctagonal pillars and the sundial arethe most striking parts of the com-plex, but everything is in completeharmony despite being a blend of thework of different civilisations overtime (an American traveller from NewYork who stayed in Diyarbak›r in the1850s described the mosque as “moreEuropean than oriental”). Many Kuficinscriptions record in detail therebuilding and various additions madeto the complex throughout its longhistory.

The complex includes the Mesudiyeand Zinciriye Madrasas and once hadsections intended for followers of eachof the four schools of Sunni Islamic

jurisprudence toperform their wor-ships separately.Once upon the timethe mosque hadseparate prayershalls for all the fourmain school ofSunni Islam; thesedays there is a

small section for the Shafi’is while alarger section is set aside for Hanafis.Next to the two main fountains is asquare space with wooden bencheswhere local men come to seek advicefrom the imams. Look out also for thesquare marble sundial in the courtyard,which is of Roman origin.

On the square opposite the mosque’smain door are number of popularteahouses, where large groups of mengather to chat and street pedlars hawkperfumes and religious booklets – anespecially photogenic scene. Justnorthwest of the mosque is the Cahit

A view from Ulu Cami, courtyard (18)

Lion and bull figure, over entrance door(19)

Diyarbak›r 209

S›tk› Taranc› Museum (see p: 230), buthaving seen the mosque it makessense to continue with the twoadjacent madrasahs befor you visit themuseum.

South of the Ulu Cami is the “BurntBazaar” (see p: 210).

Mesudiye Madrasah

The construction of this two-storeystone madrasah, by the northwestcorner of the mosque, started in 1194and was completed in 1223 by theArtukid Ruler Melik Mesut; itis open in the afternoonand can be enteredfrom the mosquecourtyard or via a sep-arate entrance, thoughyou may need to knock.This is one of the con-tenders for the oldestuniversity in Anatolia,teaching subjectsincluding medicine,astronomy, science, lit-erature and philosophy.The stone columnsplaced on either side of

the mihrab can jiggle in the event ofany slight tremor, giving warning ofearthquakes. The columns offer adifferent view of the mihrab located inthe South of the courtyard.

In the north of the structure is the gateleading to a cross-vaulted courtyardwith an iwan that is different from therest of the building in that it is built oflimestone. The courtyard has two-storey porticos separated with friezes,but unusually the porticos do not have

rooms behind them.

Zinciriye Madrasah

By the southwest cor-ner of the mosque isthe Zinciriyemadrasah, which canbe reached via theback door of themosque; you will findthe madrasah with itslarge iron grilles onyour left. It is a 12th-century construction,built by either a kingnamed SalihNecmettin or by one

Mesudiye madrasah(20)

Rolling Stone columns(21)


Ebu ‹sa Dirhem, depending on whichsource you believe, and was used as amadrasah right up until World War I,when it served as a shelter for thepoor. Later it was for a time the homeof the Archaeology Museum; today it isa place where female students takeKoranic classes, and men cannot enterthe building.

Built of stone blocks, it is distinguishedfrom other Anatolian madrasahs in thatits facade is relatively plain. The court-yard has been covered with a glassdome and converted into a salon with asmall pool while the yard is surroundedwith student rooms. There is a domedroom in the left corner of the courtyardand two barrel-vaulted rooms on eitherside of main iwan, which is the mostprominent part of the structure. In frontof the madrasah is a stone fountain ofthe same age as the building.

The “Burnt Bazaar”(Çarflîya fiewitî)

South of the Ulu Cami is the Yan›kÇarfl› (Çarflîya fiewitî in Kurdish) or“Burnt Bazaar”, which acquired thisname after a fire some years ago,though it used to be called EspahîÇarfl›s› or “Soldier Bazaar”. Here youwill find shoes and slippers on sale,

and there are also small stores sellingtraditional clothes, spices, tea, henna,scarves, carpets and kilims; at the endof the bazaar is a small section sellinggood quality local tobacco. You willalso find people selling secondhandclothes, and some stores sell oldelectronic goods as well. By the wall ofUlu Mosque are some larger storeswhere you can find different kind ofhousehold goods and gift shopspopular with tourists. Located in thesquare is the old Wheat Bazaar, nowturned into furniture and carpetstores. Visiting in 1881, the travellerAmand Von Schwieger-Lerchenfeldmentioned that the bazaars featuredplenty of European products importedfrom Aleppo in Syria, adding that “thebest leather comes from Hamedan [inIran], cotton from Azerbaijan, shawlsfrom Kerman and Mashhad [in Iran],

Zinciriye Madrasah(22)

Inside of Zinciriye Madrasah(23)

Diyarbak›r 211

and world-famous beautiful carpetsfrom Kermanshah [in Iran]”. Todaymany goods you’ll find are, unsurpris-ingly perhaps, from China, thoughthere are still textiles and carpetsfrom Iran, as well as clothes from‹stanbul.

If you leave the bazaar by heading outto Melik Ahmet Cad (the mainwest–east street in the old city) youwill come across some saddler’sworkshops. Traditionally saddle-mak-ing has been an important localindustry, and the consumers arepeople in nearby villages. The sad-dles are stuffed with a materialknown locally as cil. Soft layers of feltand haircloth are then placed on topof the stuffing material so that thesaddle does not hurt theanimal’s back.

Deve Hamam› andthe Cheese Bazaar

Beyond the major junction of Gazi Cadwith Melik Ahmet Cad is the disusedDeve Hamam›, on the south side ofGazi Cad about 300m from the junctionwith Melik Ahmet Cad. Said to havebeen built between 1520 and 1540, itwas referred to as the “large hamam”on account of its size; a tale relatesthat a lost camel from a caravan wasfound here after a search of severaldays, causing people to name this thedeve hamam› (deve means “camel”),now amended to deva (“remedy”).

The hamam has four iwans and isaccessed through a cross-vaulted gate

The Burnt Bazaar (Çarflîya fiewitî)(24)

Saddler(25)

Spice Shops(26)


as the one on the main street isclosed. On the right side of the landingis the entrance into the changingrooms plus the warm and hot rooms.The changing room contains a stonepool and is covered by a dome 14m

across resting on an octagonal drumwith eight windows. A chimneybetween the changing room and warmroom used to vent steam. In themiddle of the structure is the massageplatform, which used to be made ofmarble though what you see now isconcrete from a renovation.

Just south of the hamam is thePeynirciler Çarfl›s›, Diyarbak›r’sCheese Bazaar, to which villagersbring all kinds of cheese and yogurt inthe early hours. The smell of freshcheese and yogurt is amazing, andother items suitable for breakfast,such as honey and butter, are alsosold.

Deliller Han

On the east side of the road close toMardin gate is Deliller Han, built bythe Ottoman governor Hüsref Pafla in1527 (and also called Hüsref PaflaHan). Occupying a large area, thecomplex is where the deliller, peoplewho led groups of pilgrims to Mecca,used to assemble. It is built of blackand white stone and once comprised aone-storey building housing thestables, and a two-storey mainbuilding, whose upper floor housed the

sleeping quarters. Barrel-vaultedshops lined the street, including thefront part of stable, down to MardinGate.

Having been thoroughly refurbished,the complex is now home to thefive-star Hotel Grand Kervansaray,with rooms on both floors. Thecourtyard is an open-air restaurant;the stable is a restaurant too.

The Tomb andFountain of Sultan Suça

Facing the Hotel Grand Kervansaray isthe Sultan fiuca Türbesi, built of stoneand with a pyramidal roof. There is notan inscription on the tomb itself, butthere is one on the fountain in front ofthe tomb, bearing his name and thedate 1208–1209. The tomb has under-gone several renovations and nolonger contains a sarcophagus.

Opposite is a fountain made up ofblack basalt with three smalldecorative niches above the tap andsome Kufic inscriptions. The cemeteryjust outside the Mardin Gate getscrowded on Thursday and Fridayevenings, and the fountain comes inhandy not only for people to quenchtheir thirst but also to collect water forwatering the plants around the tombsof their loved ones.

Ömer fieddad Camii

Unusually, this mosque is built insidethe city walls right next to Mardin Kap›.

Cheese Bazaar (27)

The tomb of Sultan fiuca(28)

Diyarbak›r 213

Although this mosque is called HazretiÖmer Camii by locals, there is noconnection between the building andthe Caliph Omar.

It is said that there were once severalgates at this spot, but one of them wasclosed by Muslim armies when theyconquered the city, and converted intoa mosque. If you look at the back wallfrom the interior of the mosque, youcan still see the arches of a gate. Themosque has a small green courtyardand boasts beautiful Kûfic calligraphyon its main door and right-hand-side.

Mardin Kap› (Derîyê Mêrdînê)

This was the most strategically impor-tant of the city’s gates as most attackstended to come from the south. Thesection of walls in which it sits waspartly destroyed after the conquest ofthe city by Caliph Murtezid Billah onthe grounds that this area was hideoutfor rebels. The gate was restored byone Ahmed El Amidi, a local engineer,in 909–910 according to the inscription.

With the construction of new orbitalroads, Mardin Gate no longer receives

Deliler Han (29)



a lot of traffic, though many villagersenter this way to sell their produce inthe city. It’s worth taking some time toview the enormous metal doors stillkept in good condition. Note there areanimal figures, stars and Kuficcalligraphy on the right hand sideof the gate.

Placed just outside Mardin Gate, nearthe cemetery, is the Hatun Fountain(sometimes called Hatun Kastal›), builtof square stone blocks. The fountain isno longer used, but you can still seeslots through which water once flowed.Also just outside is the gate is the Y›ld›zTea Garden, a good spot for a refresh-ing cup of tea. For some sights furthersouth from here, see the “South of thecity walls” section on p: 239.

Urfa Kap› to Yeni Kap›The first part of the walk east fromUrfa Kap›, the main west gate in thecity walls, is straightforward, takingyou along the main Melik Ahmet Cadto the intersection with Gazi Cad.However, the route further east to YeniKap›, the old city’s eastern gate,involves following a narrow lane thatbends slightly on its way to the oldcity’s far wall. This section coversattractions along, or just off, thiswest–east route across the old city.

Urfa Kap› (Derîyê Ruhayê)

Urfa Kap› is one of the busiest gates,as it is traversed by a busy road intothe old city. Considered the bestpreserved of the gates, it has threeportals, one of which is for pedestriansto pass through. According to theinscription on the northern portal, itwas renovated by the Artukid RulerSultan Mehmet in 1183 and an irongate with double doors on whichhuman and animal figures aredepicted was added. This portal is saidto have been used only by imperialmilitary expeditions only, and wasotherwise closed.


Praying in Sar› Salt›k (32)

The street on the right (south) of thegate as you enter from outside thewalls is the so-called Turistik Cad,which curves past a park area beneaththe city walls on the way toMardin Kap›.

The Tomb of Sar› Salt›k

At the western end of Melik Ahmet Cadopposite Urfa Kap› is this octagonaltomb built of stone blocks, with apyramidal roof. Though it doesn’tcontain a sarcophagus, it is a popularpilgrimage site for both men andwomen, and old men holding theKoran nearby may offer to read aprayer on your behalf for a smallconsideration. Adjacent is the lodge ofthe Gülfleniler Dervishes.

Melik Ahmet PaflaCamii

A short walk eastalong Melik AhmetCad from the gatewill bring you to thistwo-storey mosque onthe left, which was builtin the late sixteenth centuryand was designed by themaster architect MimarSinan, famous for the Blue Mosque in

‹stanbul. The mosque is accessed viaan abbara, an arched passageway. The

ground-level areas facing MelikAhmet Cad are used as

shops, while the facadefacing the courtyard isused as a place ofprayer in winter. Thebalcony inside thesecond floor is used by

women and partitionedwith wooden screens

called flahniflin in Turkish.Walls throughout themosque have been covered

with a band of blue tiles about one

Diyarbak›r 215

Urfa Kap› (Urfa gate) (33)

The

iron

gat

e of

Ufa

Kap

›(34)

A detail from Melik ahmed Pafla Camii (35)


metre in height. Another feature of themosque is its minaret with doublestaircases inside.

Safa (‹parl› /Palo) Camiiand Muslihiddin LariMadrasah

This black basaltmosque is locatedmore or less halfwaydown Melik AhmetCad and just north ofthe street in the‹skender Pafla quarter.The mosque is thought tohave been built in thesecond half of the 14th century by theAkkoyunlu Ruler Uzun Hasan. Thewomen’s section is decorated withtiles making a water-wave pattern anddifferent designs and in East and southlocateded a small cemetery. Theminaret is nicely decorated withinscriptions and stonework from thebase to the tip.

In the courtyard is the 14th-centuryMuslihiddin Lari Madrasah (MizgeftaPalo u Medresa Muslihiddin inKurdish), which doesn’t look so verydifferent to other buildings of this typefrom the outside, though the interiorturns out to be highly decorated: thewalls are partly covered with blue tiles,while the minbar and mihrab are madeof black marble. The ornate ceiling issupported by four huge columns of

cubical basalt blocks. The octagonaltomb in the back belongs toMuslihiddin Lari, who taught in amadrasah and was the author ofseveral books.

Dicle F›rat Cultureand Arts Centre

This centre, Navenda Çand û Hunerêya Dîcle Firatê in Kurdish (0412 2290926, www.diclefirat.org), was openedwith support of municipalities andNGOs several years ago in a traditionalhouse in the Ziya Gökalp quarter, northof Melik Ahmet Cad and opposite thesign for the Mala Dengbêj (see p: 235).The house, which was used as a place

where salt was stored and sold andnamed Mehmeto¤lu ‹flhan›,

is more than 400 yearsand typifies the old

residences ofDiyarbak›r, with itsbig inner courtyard,pool and areas for

summer and winteruse. Besides playing

host to theatre, musicand dance workshops andcourses, the centre is a

great place to have tea in its opencourtyard and chat with young locals.

Ziya Gökalp Museum

Behind the Dicle F›rat Arts Centre isthe Ziya Gökalp Museum (0412 221 2755), another traditional house built in1806 of basalt. The two-storey building

Dicle F›rat culture and art centre(36)

Ziya Gökalp Museum (38)

A detail from Dicle F›rat cultureand art center (37)

Diyarbak›r 217

is where the sociologist and writer ZiyaGökalp was born in 1876, and wasconverted into a museum in 1956,housing a collection of the writer’spersonal belongings and documents.Access is through a wooden gate intothe courtyard surrounded by iwans andwith a pool and a black statue of ZiyaGökalp himself. Labels in Arabic andold Ottoman Turkish above the doorsgive some of the history behind thehouse. The museum is open daily(except Monday) from 7.30am untilnoon and from 1.30pmto 5pm.

Aflefçiler Çarfl›s›(ÇarflîyaEflêfçîyan)

On the south side ofMelik Ahmet Cad alittle closer to theintersection with GaziCad is another bazaarcalled Aflefçiler Çarfl›s›, in narrowOcak Sok. Popular with villagers fromthe surrounding area, this sells amixture of spices, dried foods andclothes.

Melik Ahmet Hamam

Opposite the arcade called AvrupaPasaj› is this disused stone hamam,built between 1564 and 1567 on thesouth side of Melik Ahmet Cad. Themain portal, of white stone, leads intothe structure through a cusped vault.At the corners of the portal are pillars

with geometric motifs and beautifulmasonry work. The octagonal dome,whose windows and lantern illuminatethe place, is enhanced by the additionof several smaller domes. The otherportal leads into the changing room.The massage platform, which used tobe marble, has been replaced with aconcrete version.

Four-legged Minaret andfieyh Mutahhar Camii

Cross the busy intersection of MelikAhmet Cad and Gazi Cad and

you find yourself in anarrow street which will

eventually take you toYeni Kap›. Close to thestart of this street, onthe right, is thissquare-planned

mosque in the fiavaflquarter. It was built by

the Akkoyunlu Sultan Kas›min 1500, as mentioned in the

inscription. The lead-coated singledome is unusual among Anatolianmosques.

The curious Four-legged Minaret (DörtAyakl› Minare in Turkish, MinaraÇarling in Kurdish) is quite separate

Melik AhmedHamam (39)

Spice shops (40) Four legged minaret(41)

from the fieyh Mutahhar Camii, theminaret was built by the AkkoyunluSultan Kas›m in 1500 and is square inplan. The alternating bands of blackand white stones are not surprising,but what is unusual is that the base ofthe minaret consists of four slenderpillars in between which a person caneasily walk – and it is believed thatanyone who walks through the baseseven times will have his or her wishesgranted. The pillars are said torepresent the four Sunni schools ofjurisprudence, while the body of theminaret represents the unity of Islam.

The Mar Petyun ChaldeanCatholic Church (Keldani Kilisesi)

A little further east from the Four-legged Minaret, this 17th-centurychurch in fieftali Sok (Savafl quarter) isone of only two functioning churches inDiyarbak›r (the date 1834 in an inscrip-


K›r›ks used to be a common featureof Diyarbak›r’s street life. These men–ranging from youths to middle-aged– were once like vigilantes,enforcing law and order and insome cases managing to extortmoney from the rich to donate tothe poor. They were regarded astrustworthy and were looked uponby locals with a mixture of fear andadmiration. Their stronghold wasthe Hançepak (Xançepek) area ofthe old town (around the Four-legged Minaret), but these daysthey are on the wane, though a fewcan still be seen about. The classicimage of K›r›k is of men struttingabout with their jackets over theirleft shoulder as though aping char-acters from a 1970s movie, andwearing shoes whose heels aredeliberately folded down so that theshoes act almost like clogs and pro-

duce a loud clomp with every step.Among other stereotypical charac-teristics of k›r›ks are that they greetone another by putting their handson the left side of their chest andlove fiddling with rosary beads aswell as keeping pigeons; liver kebabis meant to be their favourite food,and they use slang terms such asanqût (foolish), gûndî (illiterate/ vil-lager – used jokingly as an insult)and kene (money).

The K›r›ks of Diyarbak›r (K›r›klar/ Qirixên Amedê)

Cross under four legged minaret(43)

Turkish in Diyarbak›rian accent(42)

tion represents a date whenrestoration took place). Built of blackbasalt, with columns painted white, ithas three naves and five apsesdecorated with plant motifs. Somemasses are held in this church by ahandful of Chaldean Christians. Thechurch is open daily from 9am to 6pm.

Surp Giragos Armenian Church

On a narrow alleyway called GöcmenSokak opposite the Four-leggedMinaret (Savafl quarter), this churchwas built between 1515 and 1518, andhad to be rebuilt in 1888 after beinggutted by fire. Built of black basalt, thechurch used to have a magnificent

five-storey Gothic bell tower, but it wasdemolished in 1916 as it was higherthan the Four-legged Minaret. At thestart of World War I the church wasused as German army headquarters.Later it was used as a state militarydepot and a warehouse for theSümerbank Textile Company until, in1960, it was handed over to theArmenian community.

Visiting in 1615, Simeon of Polandwrote: “One tradition I liked was thatleaders of rites gave plenty of offeringsto all priests according to their rank,and after the ceremony they invite

Diyarbak›r 219

A view of Surp Giragos Armenian Church (44)

Surp

Gir

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Arm

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The Mar Petyun Chaldean Catholic Church (46)


them to dine with them at theirs.These people also offer delicious foodsthat I didn’t see even in ‹stanbul orAleppo… It’s impossible to drink morethan one glass of sweet and darkErgani wine, offered with variouskebabs, pastries or other delicacies.”

The church is large but is basicallyderelict and roofless. The altar and thebaptismal font on the right of thechurch can still be seen. The familywho lives here acts as the caretakersand are happy to let visitors in andmay even guide you around.

Esma Ocak Köflkü

Just opposite the Surp GiragosArmenian Church is an old traditonallystyled house Göçmen Sokak no. 17,Savafl quarter) which originally

belonged to an Armenian namedYemenici Babofl, who madehand-printed headscarves.Researcher-writer Esma Ocak, whohas written several books aboutDiyarbak›r, bought and restored thehouse and then handed it over toofficials so that the place couldbecome a tourist attraction.

Fully furnished, the house is built ofblack basalt and boasts a courtyardwith pool, common areas and guestrooms on the ground floor, a largestore-room in the basement (whichalso has a bedroom used for naps onhot summer days) and many rooms onthe upper floor. There are also fouriwans, one of which is upstairs. Thehouse is open on Saturdays andSundays from 8am to 7pm.

Esma Ocak House, living room (47)

Esma Ocak House(48)

Diyarbak›r Houses

Traditional houses in Diyarbak›r aretwo-storey structures built of blackbasalt and with a courtyard. Iwanswith columns are mostly placed tothe south and north of thecourtyard, around which arecommunal areas such as thekitchen, as well as some bedroomsfor guests. Stone stairs lead to theupstairs rooms, which are moreprivate. Rooms upstairs tend tohave high ceilings covered withwooden roofs which are protectedby roofing tiles. North-facing roomsare used in summer and south-fac-ing ones in winter. A sloping roofprevents the snow accumulate forlong in winter. The blocks of basaltare edged with a white plastercalled c›s that contrasts with thedark stone. Windows have decora-

tive niches where lamps or framedpictures can be placed, and railings(gezemek) that prevent childrenfrom falling out accidentally.Upstairs there are small balconiescalled cumba where flowerpots canbe displayed.

Diyarbak›r traditional house(49)

A d

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221

Pafla Hamam

Beyond the four-legged minaret,continue east up Yenikap› Sok andsome 200m further on you will find thisdisused hamam on the left in theHançepek quarter. The hamam wasbuilt under provincial governorBehram Pafla in 1564–1567, hence itsname. There are entrances in thesouth and west, and a central conicalroof of brick placed on an octagonaldrum, with light furnished by a lanternas well as windows. In the middleis what would have been themassage area.

Yeni Kap› (Derîyê Nû)

This is the only one of the major citygates that can be a little hard to find,as it is right at the far end of the townoverlooking the Tigris. If you get thisfar, you will have walked the narrowYenikap› Sok east from the Four-legged Minaret through low-riseneighbourhoods quite unlike the ratherbland modern architecture thatdominates much of Gazi Cad. Thehouses here are not unlike those inrural Moroccan or Egyptian towns,with roughly plastered walls oftenpainted brown, blue or green. Whenyou reach the end of the lane you willneed to turn left (north) and continue ashort way to reach Yeni Kap› (use to becalled Su Kap›s›).

This gate with a single portal wasoriginally built by the Byzantines.However according to other sources,when Marwanids took over the city ofDiyarbak›r in 997, the first thing theydid was to fortify the walls of ‹çkale,which were destroyed by Büveyhis, andbuild up a palace on the eastern wallsoverlooking the Tigris. They also builtup Yeni Kap› to reach the water of theTigris. One of the inscriptions in UluCamii, dated 1240, refers to it as“Water Gate”. Although the walls tothe right of the gate are in ruins, thesections to the left are still ingood shape.


Looking east from Yeni Kap›,you will see some modernbuildings close to the easternhorizon, on hilly land slopingup on the far side of theTigris. Some of these are partof Dicle University, which hasits origins in a medical facultyopened in 1966. A sciencefaculty was opened in 1974,at which time the nameDiyarbak›r University came tobe used, and the institutionwas affiliated to AnkaraUniversity. In 1982 the uni-versity became independentand acquired its presentname. The university hasproduced a number of thecity’s politicians and othernotables, and provides anopportunity for cultural andacademic exchanges withstudents from westernTurkey. The university has anoutdoor restaurant, near alarge pool called Havuzbafl›,serving a wide range of foodand alcoholic drinks.

Dicle University

Locals cooking bread near by Yeni kap› (51)

Diyarbak›r 223

The City Walls (Bedena Diyarbak›r)Deterring uninvited guests fromattacking the old city, Diyarbak›r’s citywalls never fail to arrest your gaze asyou approach the city centre. Built ofdark basalt, they are an impressive5.5km long, 10–12m high and 3.5mthick, enclosing an area that stretches1700m from west to east and 1300mfrom north to south. Among severalgates in the walls are four main gatesat the cardinal points, officially HarputKap› (north), Rum Kap› (west), TeliKap› (south) and Dicle Kap› (east),though everyone calls them Da¤ Kap›,Urfa Kap›, Mardin Kap› and Yeni Kap›respectively. There are other gates,rather small, not far from Da¤ Kap›called Çift Kap› and Tek Kap›, built inthe 1960s to answer the growingcity traffic.

The city was first encircled by walls in3000 BC by the Hurrians, and the wallswere renewed and enlarged partly byRomans and then by the Byzantines in330–377. The walls in the southwest

are from the time of the Seljuks andArtukids. The Harput and Mardin Gateswere rebuilt by the Abbasids Caliphal-Muktadir in 909 after beingdemolished. The Seljuks built fourtowers on the western section, whilethe Artukids made many significantadditions, including the Ulu Beden andYedi Kardefl Towers. In the 16thcentury, the Ottomans extended someof the fortifications.

In the early part of the last century, thelocal governor planned to knock downthe walls in various places so as toallow the city some breathing spacing.Fortunately Dr Albert Gabriel, a French

Local resting in the park by the walls (53)



researcher who was visiting the city in1932, sent a telegram to the Ministryof Education and managed to get thisattack on the city’s historical fabricstopped. The walls have sinceundergone a partial facelift that hasincluded the creation of green spacesbeneath the walls and the creation oflarge ornamental heart-shapedcavities in certain areas.

There are some interesting views ofthe city and the Tigris if you care towalk along the top of the walls, thoughyou should probably avoid doing so ifyou don’t have a head for heights, asthere are no safety railings orparapets. If you do head up, it is worthbringing water and a hat in hot

weather, and a torch may come inhandy for the interiors of the gate-towers. The best stretch of wall towalk is that between Urfa Kap› andMardin Kap›; it is in reasonable condi-tion and the area abutting the inside ofthe wall here, bounded by Turistik Cadat ground level, has been convertedinto a green space popular for eveningpicnics in hot weather and with someplay facilities for children. If you fancyglimpsing life in the oldest parts of theold city, continue beside the wall fromMardin Kap› towards Yeni Kap› andDa¤ Kap›.

In what follows we describe the mostinteresting towers in the walls anti-clockwise, starting from Da¤ Kap›.(The gates themselves are covered inthe earlier sections “Da¤ Kap› toMardin Kap›” and “Urfa Kap› to YeniKap›”.) You might think that the bestway to see the towers is to walkthrough them on a circuit of the citywalls, but in fact you can’t see many ofthe details unless you are at streetlevel. The towers can be polygonical,cylindrical or rectangular, and usuallycontain several storeys once used asbarracks or stores.

Selling local juice celled meyan (54)

Diyarbak›r in old days (55)

Diyarbak›r 225

Da¤ Kap› Tower(Birca Derîyê Çiyê)

The powers who have ruled the cityover the years have left their mark onthis tower, whether in the form of aninscription, a symbol or plant andanimal motifs (note the particularlystriking motifs, in which pigeons areespecially common). Inscriptions men-tioning various renovations are mostlyplaced at the entrance. The iron gate,nicely adorned, was used to be closedat sunset and opened at dawn. Insidethe main tower is a book shop.

Selçuklu Tower(Birca Selçukîyan)

This Seljuk tower is south of UluBeden Tower and bears motifs such asdeer antlers, lions and pigeons,resembling those on the Nur Towerfurther south.

Evli Beden Tower(Birca Bedena Mezin)

In the southwest of the city walls, thisis the largest of the towers and not abad spot to commence a walk alongthe top of the walls. The tower, built bythe Artukids in 1208 and also calledUlu Beden, has been at various timeslived in by the homeless, hence itsname, literally “refuge house”.

Each of the four storeys has defensiveembrasures. The walls have strikinginscriptions, and just above these aretwo double-headed eagles with out-stretched wings, and below are fourgriffins. Lions and griffins are

particularly common on the towers,representing courage and power andacting as protective symbols.

There is a famous song about thetower:Evli bedende kufl var,Kanad›nda gümüfl varYarim gitti gelmediElbet bunda bir ifl var.

The bird is perching on Evli BedenIts wing is made of silverMy lover has disappearedThere should be something wrong.

Yedi Kardefl Tower(Birca Heft Birayan)

This tower, around 400m southwest ofMardin Kap›, was built by the Artukidsin 1208. Architecturally it has manysimilarities with the Evli Beden Tower,including numerous embrasures,

Evli Beden tower (57)

A detail from Evli Beden Tower (56)


winged lions and inscriptions on theupper sections and but the stoneworkis more detailed.

According to legend, the local rulerwanted to have two ornamentedtowers to be built in the south of thecity walls. A craftsman was appointedand he decided to build Yedi Kardefl

while appointing his apprentice to doEvli Beden. Upon completion of thetowers, the emperor and his courtiersinspected them and the emperorchose Evli Beden as superior. Thiscaused the craftsman to commitsuicide by throwing himself from thetower, his death also led theapprentice to kill himself, after whichit was called Ben û Sen (“Me and You”)for a time.

Nur Tower

Located next to Yedi Kardefl Tower, theNur Tower was built at the behest ofthe Seljuk Sultan Malik Shah in 1089

Nur tower (58)

Yedi Kardefl tower(59)

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(60)

Diyarbak›r 227

and designed by Urfal› Muhammed.This is the most richly decorated of thetowers, with inscriptions and reliefsincluding long-horned deer, runninghorses and a seated naked womanholding her foot with her hand. On theright of the inscription is a pigeon withopen wings, below which is anothernaked female figure; on the left is apredatory bird. The naked womenbelieved to represent fertility. Look outalso for the smiling face of the lion onthe right of the inscription.

The Keçi Tower (Birca Bizinan)

A little way southeast of the MardinGate is the Keçi Tower, which sits atopa rock and offers a commanding viewof the Tigris and a large part of theMesopotamian Plain; it is also theoldest and one of largest of the towers,jutting out 60m from the walls. Said tohave been used as a temple, it hasbeen built in 367 by Roman EmpireValentius and it was restored by theMarwanids in 10th century and addedas part of the tower. There are elevenbands in this magnificent tower.

The Keçi Tower (also called Kici Burcuby the locals) is sometimes used as asite for exhibitions and poetryreadings, and is a popular place withpeople as its offer good view of theplain and the river, also in evenings aplace for couples to spend a few quietmoments together on top of the towerunder the moonlight.

Keçi tower (61)

Inside Keçi tower (62)


‹çkale‹çkale (“inner fortress”) is located inthe northeast of the walls, on a rockycrag overlooking the Tigris. It has fourgates, namely Saray Kap›, Küpeli Kap›,O¤run Kap›s› and Fetih Kap›s›; you’remost likely to enter through the westgate, Saray Kap›. To reach it, you caneither head east along ‹zzetpafla Cadwhich starts opposite Nebi Camii (seep: 204) on Gazi Cad, or follow the citywalls east from Da¤ Kap›, passing agreen area beneath the walls, andthen head south through a gate in thewalls close to ‹çkale.

A fortress was first built here by theHurrians, who were the first people to

settle in Diyarbak›r. The inner castleseparated from the rest of the city withits walls has been hosting governingunits of the city since its veryexistence. It is one of the mostsignificant spots where the historicalfabric of the city could survive withmany properties including Amida(Virankale) Tumulus, Artuklu Palaceand Caravansary, the oldest church ofthe city dating back to 3rd century, amosque from the 11th century andvarious other buildings and structuresremaining from the 19th and 20thcenturies. During Ottoman times,Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, whomade four visits to Diyarbak›r, added16 towers and two gates. Until a fewyears ago various government officeswere housed here, but now it’s due thefortress to be converted into a tourismsite, which will include an exhibitioncentre, art gallery and museums.

The site is like an open-air museum,housing various historical relics,including the remains of an Artukidpalace. The 10m-wide vaultedentrance, Artuklu Kemeri, has aninscription mentioning the dates1206–1207, making it contemporaneous

‹çkale Artuklu Kemeri (63)

‹çkale(64)

Diyarbak›r 229

with the palace. A relief showing afight between a lion and a bull,on limestone on eachside of the vault, isthe identical to oneat the Ulu Cami.

Walking throughthe arch into‹çkale, you seethe tourism officeon the right. Also onthe left is a stonefountain, called Aslanl›meaning “with lion” as it bears a lionhead. The water would once have runthrough the lion’s mouth, but is nowdisused. Also here is the HazretiSüleyman Camii (see below). Furtheron is a separate building namedKomutan Atatürk Müze Kütüphanesi,meaning “Commander Atatürk, LibraryMuseum”, though it’s just a libraryfounded in 1973. Nearby is a largetwo-storey building which used to be ajuvenile court. On the left of this build-ing is another structure used foraccommodating army staff. In thenortheast corner is St George’sChurch, behind which are watchtowersat the corners of the walls. The prisonis located at the left corner of thechurch building and facing the adultcourthouse.

Stretching from the end of the churchtowards the gate is a long two-storeysbuilding, which used to be armybarracks. In the middle of ‹çkale

stands a square building which wasonce an adult courthouse, with a green

courtyard surrounded by trees.

In order to protect thishistorically and culturallycritical part of Diyarbak›r,‹çkale project was jointlylaunched by Diyarbak›rGovernorate, Greater

Municipality and ÇEKÜLFoundation.

Hazreti Süleyman Camii

Built by Nisano¤lu Ebu Kas›m in themid-12th century, the mosque is alsoknown as the Kale or Nas›riye Mosque,and has entrances in the west andsouth, and three barrel-vaultedsections inside. The minaret, bearingan inscription with the date 1160, issquare in plan and has a number ofhorizontal mouldings. Unlike othermosques in Diyarbak›r, this one has alarge number of females attending topray in a separate section on the left.

A separate entrance leads off from thecourtyard to the tombs of Süleyman,the son of Arab Commander Halid bin

‹çkale, Jail (66) Hazreti Süleyman Camii(67)

D›nd›l hava pool (65)


Velid, and his warriors who weremartyred. Enclosed within metalgrilles are the tombs itself, withbeautiful decorative woodwork.

St George’s Church

St George’s Church (Karapapaz) is thelargest building here, facing the jail.Born in Ramleh, Palestine in the thirdcentury, St George tried to persuadethe Roman Emperor Diocletian toconvert to Christianity which made theemperor very furious. He is said tohave been martyred after barelysurviving three episodes of torture.

Most of this beautiful church is built ofbasalt, while the walls and the archesare of thin red bricks. The church isdivided into two parts. One is a largesquare hall with four columns oneither side and a window overlookingthe Tigris; the other, larger, sectionhas a dome with a huge ornamentedhole resembling a crown, supported byeight white columns. Some sources

say it was used as a hamam during theArtukid era, while others say thisbuilding was part of an Artukid palace.

The Virantepe (Amida) Tumulus

In the northwest of ‹çkale is theVirantepe Tumulus, where settlementdates back to Neolithic times.Excavations in the 1960s unearthed theremains of a palace belonging toArtukid Ruler Melik Salih Nas›reddinMahmud (1200–1222). The colouredstones, the fountain ornamented withmosaics and the pool surrounded byconnected iwans are unique in Turkisharchitecture.

The northwest ofthe Old CityCahit S›tk› Taranc› Museum

Just northwest of Ulu Cami in ZiyaGökalp Sok, Cami-i Kebir quarter is aclassic Diyarbak›r house where thepoet Cahit S›tk› Taranc› was born in1910 and spent his childhood. Thebuilding was constructed in 1733, and240 years later it was converted into amuseum commemorating the poet,whose personal belongings, corre-spondence, family photos, books andso forth are displayed here. Built ofbasalt contrasted with a white materialcalled c›s, the house has 14 rooms

Hazreti Süleyman tombs (68)

Saint George church(69)

Diyarbak›r 231

with separate sections for men andwomen; areas facing south were usedin winter and north-facing ones insummer. Like most other houses inDiyarbak›r, this building too have itsbasement called “Zerzembe”. Beingcooler, food for winter used to be kepthere either in earthen jugs orcupboards. The kitchen is actually aniwan with a single arch to the north-eastern corner of the courtyard. Insidethe kitchen, there is an oven with threeparts located in a niche covered by arounded arch. Since the building ispresently used as a museum, thekitchen section is covered with awooden cage in order to protect itemsin the building.

Interestingly the basement of thehouses has one particular roomdivided up by wooden screens that wasused as a place where young singlemen and women from his family couldmeet potential spouses; the womancould see the man but he couldn’t seeher behind the screen. The museum(0412 221 27 55) is open from Tuesday

to Sunday between 7.30am and noonand from 1.30pm to 5pm.

Yeni Han (Xana Nû)

South of Ulu Camii, behind theZinciriye Madrasah, is a two-storeyhan built by one Seyyid Hac› Abdullahin 1788–1789, according to theinscription. A vaulted gate leads intothe courtyard, surrounded by porticoswhose columns are linked with yetmore vaults. Behind the porticos arethe sleeping quarters. Unfortunatelythe place has lost some of its originalcharacter thanks to severalrenovations.

Coppersmiths’ Bazaar

Close by Yeni Han is the Coppersmiths’Bazaar (Demirciler or Kazanc›lar

Cahit S›tk› Taranc› museum (70)

Entrance of the museum (71)

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Çarfl›s› in Turkish) where metal itemsas hammers, axes and so on areproduced, also similer Bazaar can befound opposite Ulu cami. Foreign trav-ellers in the past described the placethus: “All the Armenian blacksmithssing while fanning the fire hammering.While playing … songs in harmony theywork and sing at the same time. Whilehammering they work and say ‘t›rlakat›rlak t›rt›rlak’ …” Nowadays businessseems to be declining and the bazaaris limited to one sokak.

Sülüklü Han

In the Coppersmith’s Bazaar is thissmall han, in fact one of the smallestin the city, located in Kazanc›lar Sok(Savafl quarter). The ground floor is

the only surviving floor of what wasonce a three-storey building, and nowserves as a teahouse. The courtyard ispacked with pigeons and localchickens, landing it a homely feel.Originally there were 18 rooms oneach floor with basement areas wherethe animals were kept.

Originally composed of a three storey,18 rooms on each, the han has threedepots at the basement, a cistern inthe courtyard and an entrance fromKazanc›lar Sok. When the second andthird floors were demolished in time, itbecame a single storey structure withthe rooms placed along the iwan.While the people were sleeping inthese rooms, their horses, camels ordonkeys used the large depot rooms.Said by the officials to have been usedas storage rooms after the war years,the building was also used as militarybarrack during the liberation war. It isalso said there had been an under-ground tunnel extending to the jail,through which some inmates hadescaped.

According to others, as there weremany sülük (leeches) around theSülüklü Han(74)

Streets of old town (73)

Pottery has been made in Diyarbak›rsince Neolithic times, and peoplebelieve that pottery is a holy craft asthe Prophet Noah made utensils ofclay when these were sorely lackingafter the great flood. The raw materi-al used here is a mixture of red earth,silt and clay from the banks of theTigris, mixed with salt. Earthenware

jugs are locally known as bardak. Every master potter employs a team thatconsists of an overseer, a potter, a glazer and an apprentice. There are twoplaces opposite the Four-legged Minaret (see p: 217) and a few spots inthe “Burnt Bazaar” (see p: 210) where you can see pottery being made thetraditional way, and you can buy souvenirs including clay watermelons andmodels of the city walls.

Pottery

Pottery making, old photo (75)

Diyarbak›r 233

fountain in the courtyard, which wereused for therapeutically, the han wasgiven its current name.

The northeastof the Old CityThis section covers sights in the north-east quarter of the old city away fromGazi Cad, except for ‹çkale, which iscovered on. (see page: 228)

The Carpentryand Yoghurt Bazaars

East of Gazi Cad and behind the GoldBazaar (see p: 207) is a CarpentryBazaar (Marangozlar Çarfl›s› inTurkish, Çarfliya Xerata in Kurdish)where a number of workshopsproduce traditional small chairs andtables. Behind the Gold Bazaar as youhead in is the oldest and the mostauthentic bazaar, called EskiYo¤urtçular Çarfl›s› or Çarfliya Mast inKurdish, literally the “Yoghurt Bazaar”– though oddly they don’t sell yoghurthere. Instead, in the labyrinthinestreets you can find butchers, spicestores, fruit and vegetable stores,quality cheese, olive and honey along

with small restaurants. Located in themiddle is the large Eski Borsa Han›,once an agricultural exchange centreattended by villagers and traders; youcan enter the large courtyard througha huge wooden-iron gate.

Çardakl› Hamam

Located close to the Surp GiragosChurch in B›y›kl› Mehmet Pafla Sok(‹brahim Bey quarter), Çardakl›Hamam is another of the city’s manydisused bathhouses and was builtbetween 1520 and 1540. The changingroom has two-storey iwans, placed inthe east–west direction, one leadingfrom the entrance area and coveredwith a dome. The tepid section is

Yoghurt bazaar (76)


composed of three sections, one ofwhich is domed whereas the othershave barrel-vaulted ceilings.

Fatih Pafla Camii(Kurflunlu-B›y›kl›Mehmet Pafla-Merkez)

This was the firstmosque built by theOttomans inDiyarbak›r, under thefirst Ottoman Governor,B›y›kl› Mehmet Pafla, in1516–1520. Some sourcessay that the St Teodoros Church wasactually converted into the mosque,though the truth of this is unclear andthe church may in fact have beenmerely close to the mosque, ratherthan occupying the same spot.

Located in Fatihpafla quarter south of‹çkale and facing an open square, it isalso known as the Kurflunlu Mosqueand is similar to Behram Pafla Camii(see p: 236) in structure. Having adifferent plan than those of the othermosques, the front hall is covered withseven domes supported by eightpillars. Unlike in other mosques, thedomes of the front hall area have notbeen hidden. Inside the dome, thenames of four rightly guided caliphsare written in Arabic script. To the

contrary, the middle entrance domehas been elevated higher. Built up ofblack and white stones, it has a rich

appearance. There are decorativemedallions between the vaults,

in the corners and on thepillars and corners. Themihrab and minbar aresimilar to those in otherOttoman mosques. The

minaret is square, withblack stone used at the baseand white stone further up.At the back of the mosque isa shrine where passers-by

like to pause for a short prayer. One ofthe tombs belongs to Özdemiro¤luOsman Pafla. This monument is anoth-er unique work left behind from thefamous architect Mimar Sinan.

Next to the mosque on the left side isa building that was once a mosque forthose of the Shafi’ school of SunniIslam; nowadays it is an educationalcentre offering courses for women andchildren, run by the governorate.

The Tomb of Fatih Pafla

Located in a small graveyard in southof Fatih Pafla Mosque, this tombbelongs to B›y›kl› Mehmet Pafla, oncegovernor of Diyarbak›r. According toinformation on the gravestone, it wasbuilt in first half of 16th century. The

Fatih Pafla Camii (77)

Door knock from Fatih Pafla Camii (78)

Diyarbak›r 235

tomb once had a pyramidal roof, andthe remains suggest it was anoctagonal structure built up of stoneblocks with windows on all sides.

The Tomb of Özdemiro¤luOsman Pafla

West of Fatih Mosque is a tomb built in1585 for Özdemiro¤lu Osman Paflawho was provincial governor in1571–1575. Another work of masterarchitect Mimar Sinan, the tomb usesalternating black and white layers andhas an unorthodox design, with asquare entrance unit in front of theoctagonal structure.

The southwestof the Old CityDengbêj House (Mala Dengbêj)

This house is signposted “Dengbêj Evi”off Melik Ahmet Cad. Down a smallbackstreet (K›l›çç› Sok), it was openedin 2007 with the support of theMunicipality, the European Union, theDicle F›rat Culture and Arts Centreand several other arts bodies topreserve the Kurdish musical genreknown as dengbêjî, a word which also

applies to the practitioners of the art.These men (and they are almostexclusively men) sing unaccompaniedballads of love and heroism atweddings and other celebrations, andcan be likened to the jongleurs ofFrance or the bards of England.Expressing feelings of sorrow and(less often) joy, the songs (k›lams) canlast several hours or may need a fewdays to perform in full, and have animportant educational role in that theyare a form of oral history, with lyricsthat cover the heroic deeds of warriors(pêlewan), the adventures ofwanderers, battles between tribes, thetragedies and delights of loves wonand lost, and struggles against naturaldisasters.

Visit the Mala Dengbêjan and you willfind a nicely restored traditional resi-

Dewan at Dengbêj House (Mala Dengbêj)(79)

Dengbêj House (80)


dence of black basalt and decoratedwith traditional fabrics. The place islike an informal social club whereKurdish men gather daily to hear thedengbêj sing, though there are no settimes for the music. As per the stereo-type of folk musicians in the west, adengbêj typically places his hands orfingers to his ears while singing; themusic itself usually makes use ofminor modes and plenty of vibratos.

The house (0412 229 20 34), which alsoincludes a tourist office, is open dailyexcept Monday from 9am to 5pm (6pmin summer). A celebratory dewan, atwhich dengbêjs sit in a line and singingtogether or alternately, is held onsome Saturdays between 5pm and7pm, and is usually well attended.

Behram Pafla Camii

Adjoining the Dengbêj House is thisperfectly ornamented mosquedesigned by Mimar Sinan and built byBehram Pafla, the provincial governorin the mid-16th century. The portico issupported by 18 columns in two lines.The walls of the women’s section,including the iwans, are decoratedwith large sized blue tiles. The squareplan downstairs turns into anoctagonal drum upstairs, covered witha huge lead-coated dome. The minbaris made of white marble.

Aynal› (Ayna) Minare Mosque

Some 100m further south of BehramPafla Camii is this rectangular,flat-roofed mosque in the Alipaflaquarter. Also called Hoca Ahmet

Camii, it was built in 1498 at the era ofAkkoyunlu era by a philanthropistcalled Hoca Ahmet, and restored in1992. The mosque features the usualblack basalt, but the beautifullyornamented minaret is more striking.

Ali Pafla Camii

Bearing the name of provincialgovernor Had›m Ali Pafla, this mosqueand the adjacent madrasah were builtduring his tenure in 1534–1547; you’llfind them on Turistik Cad (the streetcurling inside the city walls betweenUrfa and Mardin Gates) opposite theYedi Kardefl Tower. The mosque is oneof the early works of master architectMimar Sinan, and includes a section ofShafi’ Sunnis (in the east), a madrasah(west) and hamam. Considered as oneof this single domed mosque’s wallskirts have been adorned with hexago-nal tiles up to 1m. Built up of stone

A detail from Behram Pafla Camii (81)

Ali Pafla Camii (82)

From

Ali

Pafl

a C

amii

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Diyarbak›r 237

blocks, the narthex and tambour ofdome are adorned with horizontallyplaced black and white stones. Thedome is placed on an octagonal drumand covered with pyramidal roof. Themosque’s interior is adorned withOttoman tiles produced in localateliers. Half of the minaret is built ofblack basalt while the rest is white.

Leaving the mosque, you make a sortof semicircle on the left side to reachthe madrasah, an unornamented affairbuilt of stone blocks and brick. Nowdisused, the madrasah doesn’t haveporticos with columns in the court-

yard; instead a barrel-vaulted sectionis placed in front of each room. Withinthe rooms themselves are fireplaceswhose chimneys can be seen fromoutside. A structure added in thenorthwest corner was used as a homefor the poor.

Virgin Mary Church

North of the Ali Pafla Mosque andsoutheast of Urfa Gate is the SyrianOrthodox Virgin Mary Church (MeryemAna Kilisesi). Believed to have beenbuilt in the 6th century (the site itselfwas previously the home of a pagantemple), the church went throughseveral burnings, destructions,renovations and restorations. ThePatriarchate of Antioch was trans-ferred to this church in 1034 fromMalatya, and the church was thecentre of the episcopate of Diyarbak›runtil 1933.

The church, with a stunning Byzantinepulpit, is considered as one of themost beautiful examples of stoneworkproduced by Diyarbak›r’s masons. Onthe site are the shrine of PatriarchJacob II (who died here in 1871), fourcourtyards, a room for religiousclasses and accommodation. It hastwo gates, on one of which two lionshave been nicely depicted; the otherwas meant for the use of patriarchsonly and has an inscription reading,Service in Virgin Mary Church(85)

Virgin Mary church(84)


“Constructed by Patriarch Jacob II,1860. Renovated by PatriarchAbdulmesih II with the help ofbelievers in 1896.” The inscription onthe upper part of entrance iwan says“These buildings were constructed byour Syriac Christians of Amid [an oldname for Diyarbak›r, meaning“salvation” in Syriac] in 1881.”

The plan of the upper floor has manysimilarities with the typical houses ofDiyarbak›r. Marble signs upstairswith different colours indicate thegraves of different figures buriedhere. Also here is the Divanhanebuilding, used for entertaining guestsafter the Sunday service. Through asingle gate behind the church once

was a former patriarch’s residencenowadays used as housing.

The southeastof the Old CityProtestant Church

In Muallak Sok in the Savafl quarter,250m east of the Cheese Bazaar (seep: 212) on Gazi Cad, the Protestantchurch has been abandoned since thebeginning of the last century. Thischurch has a rectangular plan and isbuilt of black basalt; the lead domeand part of the roof are intact. Largewooden-framed windows in the wallsand dome provide ample illuminationfor the interior. On the western side isa u-shaped area meant for women.The family who are custodians of thesite will be happy to show you around.Caretaker of the church they will allowyou to visit the church, whose belltower you will probably see before youget there.

Surp Sarkis Church

Just fifty metres east of the Protestantchurch is the Armenian Catholic SurpSarkis Church, another black basaltstructure, this time dating from the16th century. The building has somesimilarities to the larger Surp GiragosChurch (see p: 219) and is likewiseroofless. While the mosaics havelargely disappeared, some beautifuldecorative stonework can still be seen.The church is rectangular, with fivenaves and four apses. The upstairs,allocated for women, is nowsomething of a labyrinth, full of rottedwooden structures.

At either end of the aisle are largewindows which might have been addedlater on. Stones have been used fordecorations and are illuminatedthrough the small northern window.On either side of the aisle arebaptistries with windows, from wherestairs lead up to the altar.

Rem horns, Symbol of luck (86)

A detail from Surp Sarkis Church (87)

Diyarbak›r 239

Hüsrev Pafla Camii

Just east of Deliller Han (see p: 212) isthe small Çukurlu Sok in Cemal Y›lmazquarter, leading to the madrasah with14 rooms around a courtyard. Theclassrooms, arranged like the interiorof a small mosque, are accessedthrough a plain door without portico.Only white stones have been used formihrab, which has rich decorationsaround it like a crown.

This structure was built as a madrasahby the Ottoman governor Hüsrev Paflain the 16th century, and subsequentlyused as a dormitory for a religiousschool. A cylindrical minaret of stoneblocks was added in 1728 when theplace was turned into a public mosque.

South of the City WallsSouth of Mardin Gate are severalattractions that you can reach by taxiand in some cases on foot.

Gazi Köflkü (Semano¤lu) Lodge

One kilometre south of the city walls is

this lodge, styled like a traditionalDiyarbak›r house and overlooking theTigris Valley. It was built in early 16thcentury for an emir and later used bythe Semano¤ullar› Regional Dynasty.When Atatürk took the command of16th Corps of the 2nd Army, he lived inthis building which had been rentedfrom a family for eleven months and itbecame the headquarters of the 16thCorps. Later on the building was reno-vated and gifted to Atatürk when hewas made an “honorary cityman” ofDiyarbak›r. The building has been

The Tigris

Rising from the Maden Mountains – extensions of the Taurus range – the Tigris(called the Dicle locally) is 1900km long, 523km of which flows inside Turkey.Marking the border of Mesopotamia Plain, the Tigris is shorter but more powerfulthan its rival, the Euphrates, and many people call the Tigris the “swift river”compared to Euphrates, which deposits more silt than the Tigris. East of Cizre,the Tigris becomes a natural border between Turkey and Syria for 40km. The tworivers eventually join to form the Shatt al-Arab in Iraq, emptying into the Gulf.

The main tributaries of the Tigris are the Batman, Garzan, Botan, Habur and ZapRivers and Streams. Flowing at first through narrow, deep valleys, the riverexpands to up to 600m wide east of Diyarbak›r. The Tigris is the source of life forDiyarbak›r, making the area cultivable and also provides good fish such as carp,trout, pike and the small trout-like flebbot. (See page for Euphrates p:118

Fishing in Tigris river (89)

Gazi (Semano¤lu) lodge (88)


called Atatürk Köflkü since then – ormore commonly Gazi Köflkü, gazi (warveteran) being a term often applied toAtatürk.

The house is now effectively a museumpiece, open daily, with restaurants andoutdoor cafes nearby and good viewsof the river and the Hevsel Gardensbelow. This is also a good location todance in the evenings to live musicand occasional Diyarbak›r-style eyvangeceleri and Urfa-style s›ra gecelerisessions (see p: 68).

Erdebil Mansion

Unknown to most locals and indeedtourists, this is the oldest mansion inDiyarbak›r and superbly sited on thesame hill as the Gazi Lodge, with viewsof Mount K›rklar, the Tigris River,Hevsel Gardens and the City Walls. InKurdish it is called qesra ber derê pir,or “mansion near the bridge”, beingclose to the On Gözlü Bridge. Themansion is around 500m from GaziKöflkü and open daily till late.

In 512 AD King Anatasias I built abridge and a place to house theconstruction workers. So the firstversion of Erdebil was built, though itwasn’t a mansion. In the 17th century,‹brahim Hafid Pafla was rewarded withthe building, renovated over the cen-turies by various powers, as a rewardfor services to the Ottoman state.

The building has been restoredrecently and is now a cultural centrerun by Diyarbak›r Kültür Tan›tma Vakf›The rooms are fully decorated, whilethe courtyard and nearby gardens areoccupied by a café/restaurant whichhosts live music performances andserves home-made Syriac wine.

A view from Hevsel gardens and On gözlü Bridge (90)

Erdebil Lodge (91)

Diyarbak›r 241

On Gözlü Bridge/ Dicle Köprüsü(Pira deh derî)

The name of the bridge translates as“ten arches”, and there are indeed tenarches in this 178m-long bridge ofblack ashlar stone over the Tigris, 3kmsouth of the city. The bridge was builtin the 8th century and destroyedduring the siege of the city byByzantine Emperor John I Tzimisces,then rebuilt in 1065 by the Marwanidarchitect Übeyd O¤lu Yusuf. Thelargest arch is 14.70m wide.

Having undergone several restorationsover the centuries, the bridge remainsin use by both people and traffic, andis also a popular fishing spot; thereare bars, restaurants and teahouses

here too. Some locals say the bridgesignifies the way to God and gatherhere on the eve of the Bairam festivalto write their wishes on small piecesof paper which they throw into thewater, in the hope that God will fulfilthese requests.

Mount K›rklar

Mount K›rklar is a hill southwest of thecity, overlooking the Tigris and the OnGözlü Bridge. Down the slope of the

On Gözlü Bridge in winter (92)

On Gözlü Bridge (93) On Gözlü bridge and Tigris(94)

The large striped watermelonscultivated along the banks of theTigris have become symbols of thecity. When the waters of the riverrecede towards the end of spring,large holes are formed in the riverbed. These are fertilised with thedroppings of pigeons, goats andsheep to create favourable condi-tions for growing watermelonsweighing up to 50 kilos. It is saidthat when an Ottoman governordecided to send some to the Sultanin ‹stanbul, the camel could carryjust two watermelons.

The size and taste of the melonshas been remarked uponfavourably by the Ottoman travellerEvliya Çelebi and the local poetSüleyman Nazif, who commentedthat the size of the melonsrepresents the city’s civilisations,the black stripes stand fordynasties, the green part of therind stands for peace and tolerancewhile the red flesh representssincerity. The melons are largeenough that when hollowed out ababy can be placed inside – hence

the photos depicting this feat thatyou may well see around the city.

Since Ottoman times, a festival hasbeen held to mark the watermelonharvest. Celebrations took place for15 days annually until interruptedby World War I. The tradition wasrevived in 1966, and now eachSeptember there are concerts bywell-known singers, folk dancesand other activities. The farmersdisplay their largest watermelonsand of course awards are given forthe best specimen as well as thebest singer, best folk dancetroupe etc.

Diyarbak›r’s Watermelons (Zebeflê Amedê)

Diyabak›r’s Famous watermelon (96)

Diyabak›r’s watermelon(95)

242

The old city is composed of 15(mahalle) whose boundaries willprobably not be apparent totourists, but which are meaningfulto locals; it can be useful tomention the names of thequarters when asking for direc-tions, and so a few have beenincluded in the text.

Among prominent mahalle is theCamii Kebir quarter, on the rightside of Gazi Cad if you arewalking south from Da¤ Kap›. Thequarter gets its name from thepresence of the oldest mosque ofthe city and once numberedamong its residents many wealthyand influential people whotended to be pro-establishment.The most prominent figures ofthis quarter were Cahit S›tk›Taranc› and Ziya Gökalp, whosehouses are now museums.Opposite on the east side of GaziCad is the Saray Kap› or ‹çkalearea, which preserves many his-

torical monuments and is nowa-days home mainly to migrantsfrom Bingöl and surroundingareas.

The Bal›kç›larbafl› quarter, theformer fish market, stretches fromthe junction of Melik Ahmet Cadto Mardin Kap›, and now includesplenty of shops and a couple ofhotels. To the west is the Lalebeyquarter, which was where SyriacChristians, including artisansproducing silk scarves and silverfiligree, used to live; the mostimportant sight in this quarter isthe Virgin Mary Church. Nearby isthe Ali Pafla quarter wherepro-establishment families such asCemilo¤ullar› and Zazao¤ullar›once lived.

On the east side fromBal›kç›larbafl› till Yeni Kap› is amulticultural area including theHançepek and Has›rl› quarters,housing churches along withmosques.

Quarters (Mahalle)

Life in old town (97)

243

The rearing of pigeons has beenpractised in Diyarbak›r for almost500 years. Some of old houseshad special areas where theycould nest, and there werepigeon bazaars in the courtyard

of Fatih Pafla Mosque. Even today there are one or two teahouses in theold city where pigeon fanciers gather. The pigeons are called yavru untilthey are two months old, then k›zma and finally yeke when they reachthe age of one year. Well-known breeds include gö¤süa¤, ketme,k›z›lbafl and iça¤l›.

Pigeons

Pigeons owner in Diyarbak›r (98)

Pigeons (99)

244

Diyarbak›r 245

hill from the road is a pilgrimage site,a simple tomb under a tree to whichwomen who have not managed toconceive go in the hope of beinggranted a child. According to a locallegend, this happened to a Christianwoman who had a baby named Susan.The girl was taken to the pilgrimagesite on her birthday, wearing her bestclothes. When she grew up, Susan fellin love with a Muslim neighbour calledAdil and managed to rendezvous withhim on a visit to the pilgrimate site.This led to Susan receiving some formof divine punishment, in that she wasthrown into the Tigris from the OnGözlü Bridge. Adil is supposed to havecomposed a love song for his lost love.

The down side of the hill is popularwith youths who drive here in theevening to enjoy the view while havinga drink or two in their cars. There area few fish restaurants located on themain road on the K›rklar Mount.

Hevsel Bahçeleri

These combination of farmer’s plotsand green areas southeast of the city

were formed from silt carried by theriver and have been yielding a varietyof fruits and vegetables – includingDiyarbak›r’s famous watermelons – forcenturies. The area is popular forpicnics, and there are somerestaurants bars and cafés along theriverside which sell not only drinks butalso freshly made kebabs.

The New City

Until 1860s, Diyarbak›r was stillconfined within the city walls. The first

Women working in Hevsel gardens (100)

Hevsel gardens (101)

settlements outside the walls, builtunder the governorship of Hatuno¤luKurt ‹smail Pafla in 1869–1875, werebarracks; no homes appeared hereuntil the last century. Eventually, ofcourse, development and migrationnecessitated building outside the citywalls, and people also desired morespacious homes in greener areas. Thecity began to spread north from theOld City towards the vineyards of the

Ba¤lar quarter. Nowadays the city hasalso spread west and the streets arelined with many tower blocks.

The heart of shopping and nightlife inDiyarbak›r is the Ofis area, where youwill find the crowded Sanat Soka¤› (ArtStreet), with green spaces and linedwith shops, cafés and teahouseswhere youths like to hang out untillate. Exhibitions, concerts and otherevents also take place here.


The new city (102)

Art street (Sanat Soka¤›) (103)

Learning Kurdish

If you’re interested in learningKurdish, pay a visit to the KurdiDer Organisation, Huzurevleri Dr.S›tk› Göral Cad, Kalem Sok, in theKayap›nar quarter of the new city(0412 237 38 48). This foundationhas qualified teachers and offerslanguage courses (Kurmanji and

Zazaki) at various levels to foreign-ers as well as locals. Anotherorganisation in the same buildingis the Kurdish Institute Diyarbak›r,who work on Kurdish literatureand culture and art and undertakesome publishing and translationactivities (0412 237 43 16).

Diyarbak›r 247

Kurdish lessons (104)

Diyarbak›r Archaeology Museum

The main attraction in the new city isthis museum, which moved here fromthe Zinciriye Madrasah in 1985.Located on Elaz›¤ Cad behind themunicipality building, it houseschronological displays of artefacts aswell as a large collection of ethno-graphic material and city coins. As wellas historic carvings, it containsextensive local Roman remains, somefrom the Akkoyunlu and KarakoyunluTurcoman Dynasties that ruled much

of eastern Anatolia and western Persiain Medieval Times, and ceremonialitems from dervish tekkes (monaster-ies). Excavations in the region aremostly done with the guidance of themuseum’s archaeologists, who alsoprovide specialist advice toresearchers, scientists and students inareas relating to history andarchaeology. The museum (0412 22127 55) is open daily except Mondayfrom 8.30am until noon and again from1.30pm to 5pm.

The beginning of the Kurdish NewYear, better known as Newroz, is cele-brated on 21 of March. Meaning “newday” in Kurdish and Farsi, Newrozcommemorates the arrival of spring(the date is, of course, that ofthe spring equinox) and, inmyth, the freeing of thepeople ofMesopotamia from atyrant, Zahhak. Thesupposed date of thelatter event corre-sponds to the fall ofthe Assyrian Empire andthe dawn of the newempire of the Medes, to whomsome historians say the Kurdsare related. Besides being marked ineastern Turkey, Newroz is also widelycelebrated in Iran, Azerbaijan,Afghanistan, parts of Pakistan and inthe Kurdish dominated areas of Iraqand Syria. The Yezidi

Kurds in Turkey, Syria and Iraqcelebrate it as Kiloça Sersalê.

For the majority of Kurds, the festivalhas come to assume a nationalist sig-

nificance. In Turkey, the largest-scalecelebrations are organised by

municipalities run by DTP(Democratic Society

Party), in particular inDiyarbakir which is thebiggest Kurdish citynot just in Turkey but

the whole Kurdish-speaking world.

Festivities actually startabout a week before Newroz,

with youths in villages and townslighting bonfires and leaping

over the flames (a tradition that canalso be seen in Iran). On the dayitself, a massive rally

NEWROZ

A view from Newroz Festival(105)

Happy Newroz(107)

248

A participantin Newroz(106)

and free concert takes place inDiyarbak›r. People stream in from allover the city and much further afield,along with many from the Europeandiaspora communities as well as dele-gates and Kurdish community leaders,to attend the event at which famousmusicians from Turkey and neighbour-ing countries perform, and at whichyet more bonfires are lit. Attendeesmake V for Victory signs and wavebanned Kurdish flags in red, yellowand green; some even dress them-selves in those colours as some othersin traditional Kurdish cloths.

Tourists are welcome to attend what isin many respects just like an open-airrock concert, with a huge crowdassembled in front of the stage andwith freshly homemade Kurdish foodand drink stalls on sale on the periph-ery. Nowadays calm and safe to take

part but in years gone by, Newrozevents have been, somehow crushedby the Turkish army in an attempt toban such day but since people deter-mining efforts to celebrate Newrozhave succeeded in keeping this veryold Mesopotamian cultural traditionalive. Since then the Turkish stateclaims that Newroz was actually aTurkish celebration that the Turkishhistorians had only just convenientlydiscovered!

You should dress warmly, though, andbe prepared for a long event, startingin the late morning and continuing intothe early evening; you’ll also need tosit or more likely stand through thespeeches made by the Mayor ofDiyarbak›r and Kurdish MPs. Themusic and friendly people will keepyou entertained, as will the sight of

Locals celebrating Newroz(108)


249

small groups of peopleparticipating in impromptufolk dances in the crowd soit’s always a good idea tojoin one this groups to getsome free Kurdish dancinglesson (see p: 520). Andeverywhere you will begreeted with the phrase“Newroz Pîroz Be!”,effectively “Happy New Year!”.

The Story of Newroz

In The Meadows of Gold by historianMasudi, and Shahnameh, a poetic opuswritten by the Persian poet Ferdowsiaround 1000 AD, and Sharafnameh ofmedieval Kurdish historian SherefxanBidlisi (fierefxanê Bedlîsî 1543 – 1599,1604 also been recorded), Zahhak is anevil king who conquers Iran and whohas serpents growing out of his shoul-ders. In the 1930s, the Kurdish poetTaufik Abdullah, wanting to instill anew Kurdish cultural revival, used apreviously known modified form of thestory of Kawa. He connected the mythswhere people felt oppressed, withNewroz, thus reviving a dying holidayand made it a symbol of Kurdishnational struggle. However it shouldbe noted that Kurds celebratedNewroz long before this, and the word

Newroz has been men-tioned in the Kurdishpoetry of Melayê Cizîrî(1570-1640) in 16thcentury, also the famousKurdish writer and poetPiramerd from IraqiKurdistan (1867-1950)writes in his 1948 poemNewroz.

According to the tale that has beenpassed down from generations, thereonce was a cruel King named Dehakwho suffered the fate of having twosnakes grow from his shoulders.Hoping that he could placate theserpents, he ordered that two citizensbe sacrificed every day and their brains

Newroz Festival(110)

The statue of Kawa(111)


250

Newroz 251

fed to the hungry snakes. One day theorder came from the castle that theKurdish blacksmith, Kawa’s last childwas to be killed and the brain was tobe brought to the castle gate the verynext day. Instead of sacrificing his ownchild, Kawa had sacrificed a sheep andhad put the sheep’s brain. And no onehad noticed. Soon all the townspeopleheard of this. So when Dehak demand-ed from them a child sacrifice, they alldid the same. In this manner he savedhalf of the persecuted population. Thepeople lucky enough to escape theslaughter hid in the mountains andcame to constitute a large community.Finally, after much suffering, theKurdish blacksmith killed the cruelking. In order to relay the message ofthe king's death to all those in themountains he lit a large fire signalingthe beginning of a new era. From thatday forward Newroz has been celebrat-ed by people in the Middle East as thedawn of hope and the birth of freedom.

Also the famous Kurdish writer and poet Cegerxwîn (1903–1984) writes aboutNewroz:

Newroz has been mentioned in works of many Kurdish poets and writers as wellas musicians. One of the earliest records of Newroz in Kurdish literature is fromMelayê Cizîrî (1570-1640)

NEWROZNewroz e Newroz e / It is Newroz it is NewrozSibe ye Newroz e / Today is NewrozMaçek bide min yar / Give me a kiss darlingCejna te pîroz e / Celebrate the feast

Newroz e bihar e / It is Newroz, it is springBel bûne gul û dar e / trees covered with flowersBîna gul û lale / It smells roses and tulipDestê min bi destê yar e / I am holding my dar-ling’s hand

Newroz û mizgîn e / It is Newroz it is good newsBihara rengîn e / It is colorful springKesk û zer û flîn e / resembling a rainbow Xalîça rengîn e / in green, yellow and blue

Without the light and the fire of Love, Without the Designer and the power of Creator, We are not able to reach Union. (Light is for us and dark is the night)

This fire massing and washing the Heart, My heart claims after it. And here come Newroz and the New Year, When such a light is rising.




Diyarbak›r has good bus and railconnections with major Turkish cities,and is served by flights from ‹stanbuland Ankara. A municipal-run bus runsregularly between the airport, 3kmsouthwest, and Ofis/Da¤ Kap›. Theintercity otogar (Diyarbak›r Otobüs‹flletmeleri or D‹fiT‹; 0412 236 18 06) islocated along the Urfa highway, some7km away from Da¤ Kap›. Most buscompanies provide a free shuttleservice into Da¤ Kap› and there arecity dolmufls as well between theotogar and the centre.

The city’s districts terminal (‹lçeOtogar›; 0412 236 18 06), used bytransport operating within theprovince, is on Mardin Yolu Kavfla¤›,fiehitlik Mahallesi, 2.5km from Da¤Kap›. Buses and minibuses to allDiyarbak›r districts do leave from thisotogar. Most dolmufls to the old townfrom elsewhere in the city stop at thisotogar.

The train station is 1.5km west of thecentre at the end of ‹stasyon Cad.Dolmufl into the centre can be caughton the opposite side of the main road.

Getting there

Diyarbak›r Train station(115)

Diyarbak›r bus station(116)

Diyarbak›r 253

The Miro¤lu Hotel at Elaz›¤ Cad, no. 13(0412 229 60 00,www.mirogluhotel.com) is a pleasantplace to stay with swimming pool,sauna, restaurants and parking.Nearby there is a similar mid-rangeestablishment, the Turistik Hotel (0412224 75 50), close to the municipalitybuilding, and near that is the upper-class chain hotel, the Dedeman (0412229 00 00, www.dedeman.com), whichhas a restaurant serving internationalcuisine, a pool and a business centre,among other facilities.

Most mid-range hotels are locatedaround Da¤ Kap›. Here you can findthe Büyük Hotel on ‹nönü Cad (0412224 48 59) and opposite, the DeryaHotel (0412 224 25 55www.deryaotel.com). In K›br›s Cadnearby the Grand Güler Hotel (0412229 22 21). All offer reliable comforts.Slightly cheaper is the Kristal Hotel inYo¤urtçu Sok (0412 229 38 00) andeven cheaper, on K›br›s Cad, is theAslan Hotel (0412 228 92 24).Azizo¤ullar› Hotel (0412 224 81 81www.azizogluhotel.com) located nearby Tek Kap› by the bussiness centres,can be another alternative for you. Therooms contain TV, wireless internet,telephone, air condition and safe box.

There are a couple of five-star placesin the old city, one being the ClassHotel, near the junction of MelikAhmet Cad and Gazi Cad (0412 229 5000, www.diyarbakirclasshotel.com). Amodern building somewhat at oddswith the surrounding architecture, ithas satellite TV in the rooms, aTurkish bath, bars and sometimesstages live music in its restaurant atthe back, designed in the form of atraditional house. The other five-starestablishment is the BüyükKervansaray Hotel (0412 228 96 06), amagical place in a converted han onGazi Cad near Mardin Kap›. The hotelhas a pool, two restaurants, sauna andother facilities.

In the centre of the new city are twogood four-star hotels. The Prestij onEkinciler Cad in Ofis (0412 229 50 50www.diyarbakirprestigehotel.com) isclose to Sanat Soka¤› (Art Street) andhas rooms with good views, plus aterrace restaurant, an American-themed bar, a disco and live musicevery night till late. The other option isthe Malabadi Hotel (0412 237 40 40) onUrfa yolu , which likewise has plenty ofamenities, including a swimming pool,restaurants and bars.

Accommodation

Hotel room (117)


Places to eat

Diyarbak›r traditional meals (118)

Da¤ Kap› a good culinary starting pointas there are plenty of restaurantslocated here, some open 24/7. Thefiafak on K›br›s Cad (0412 223 3074)serves different types of soup, regionalmeals, grills, kebabs, lahmacun andpide, and is a good place to havebreakfast. Another great place to try isDo¤u Mutfa¤› (Ahmet Usta), on ‹nönüCad (0412 223 12 61), which serves avariety of stews and sometimesunusual seasonal fare, plus fish and,of course, all types of kebabs. There isno doubt that you can have a goodsteam cooked kaburga in Kaburgac›Selim Amca (0 412 224 44 47), therestaurant has several branches inDiyarbak›r and elsewhere in Turkeyeven one in Kurdish administeredNorth Iraq.

In the cool basement of Hasan PashaHan on Gazi Cad is Kamer’in Mutfa¤›(0412 224 23 33), run by a well-knownnational women’s organisation andserving many traditional dishes suchas içli köfte, kaburga dolmas›, mant›and örok. On the second floor of thebuilding are two excellent places forbreakfast, Mustafa’n›n Kahvalt›Dünyas› (0412 228 93 45), and oppositethe Meflhur Kahvalt›c› Kadri. Justopposite the Ulu Camii is Kebapç› Hac›Halit (0412 224 97 70), serving deli-cious regional food plus kebabs andgrills. Located behind Hasan Pasha

Han try Onur Ocakbafl› (0412 224 1405). This is a great restaurant whichserves deligious kebabs and differentdifferent kind of salads. Further downon Gazi Cad, try Güzelifl Lokantas›(0412 228 30 71), a simply decoratedrestaurant with good paça soup andother meals. Near the junction ofMelik Ahmet Cad and Gazi Cad, justopposite the famous Dört Ayakl›Minare, try Mardin Kebab Restaurant,one of the oldest in the city (0412 2282981).

As for the new city, next to the postoffice in Ofis is Aytiti Aile Mutfa¤› (0412229 55 49), a family-run affair with awarm atmosphere and great home-cooked food, including soups, dolmaand good breakfasts. Not far away onSanat Soka¤› is tiny Penguen Bal›k Evi(0412 224 13 14), serving delicious dif-ferent type of fish with excellent salad.Behind Sanat Soka¤› is Pera Yemek Evion Akkoyunlu 4 Sok. No:13 (0412 22358 15), another place serving home-made dishes such as kavurma andgüveç. You can have excellentlahmacun and pide in Diyar Tatl›sesLahmacun and Döner Salonu onGevran cad (0412 224 84 05), plusregional fare such as the lamb stewhafllama. For something of a local del-icacy, try ci¤er (grilled lung) at Ci¤erciMuharrem Usta (0412 226 87 19) locat-ed on Gevran Cad 4. Akkoyunlu Sok.

Diyarbak›r 255

Metropolitan Municipality Da¤ Kap› Tourism OfficeThis is located in the open space just outside Da¤ Kap›, and has tourist literaturein Kurdish, Turkish, Syriac, Armenian, English, German and French. Hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 9am to noon and 1pm to 6pm (closed noon to 1pm)Tel: 412 229 20 32

Culture and Tourism Management Tourism OfficeThis is located in the Da¤ Kap› tower and has literature in Turkish, English andGerman.Hours: Monday to Friday 8am to noon and 1.30pm to 5pm Tel: 0412 228 17 06

Metropolitan Municipality Dengbêj House Tourism OfficeThis is located in the Dengbêj House (see p: 235).Tel: 0412 229 20 34Hours: same as Da¤kap› Tourism Office

Diyarbak›r Association of Introduction and TourismLocated in the Class Hotel in Gazi Cad, they can provide brochures and materialsin different languages.Hours: daily 8am to 7pmTel: 0412 224 15 00

Municipality and Tourist Information

Local wines

The alluvial soil of Mesopotamiaand the climate are ideal forgrowing the small darkBo¤azkere Grapes of Diyarbak›r,used for making red wine, forexample Kocaba¤ and KulüpTurasan; these wines have a darkred colour and biting taste,thanks to the thick skin and high

level of tannin in the grape. Aparticularly good wine is pro-duced when wine from Bo¤azkereis mixed with that produced fromthe Öküzgözü Grape; ÇankayaBo¤azkere, Kavakl›dereBo¤azkere, Terra and PamukkaleDiamond are examples of suchwines.

Local wine (119


Anbar Çay› Bridge

Located on the 21st kilometre of theDiyarbak›r–Silvan highway, this spansthe Anbar Stream and was built duringthe reign of the Marwanid NasruddevleAhmed in 1040. According to theinscription, it underwent a thoroughrenovation in 1223 under the ArtukidRuler Mevhud; indeed nothing survivesof the Marwanid structure and only thebases of the columns still exist. Thereis a new bridge at the same spot.

Girikê Haciyan Tumulus

A prehistoric village was uncoveredhere during the excavations made byarchaeologists from ‹stanbulUniversity and Chicago Universitybetween 1968 and 1970; the site is a3m-high mound 1km east of thevillage Ekinciler (Girikê Haciyan), 40kmnorthwest of the city and 20km south-east of Ergani district. Among theitems they uncovered were pottery,flint tools and what is believed to be a

musical instrument made from bone,among those items also houses withround domes were found here similarto the same style houses as in NorthIraq, Syria and southeastern Anatolia.This site, which may have been inhab-ited by several hundred in 5000-6000BC, is 175m in diameter and is nowused for agriculture.

Halilviran Bridge

This bridge spans the DevegeçidiStream on the highway to E¤il, 25kmfrom the town centre, and issometimes called Artuklu orDevegeçidi Suyu by the locals. As withthe Devegeçidi Bridge, this bridge haspart of the Bakara Sura of the Koraninscribed on it, and there are twoinscriptions stating that it was built upby architect Cafer Bin Mahmut duringthe reign of the Artukid King MelikSalih Mahmud in 1218. Built up ofblack basalt, the bridge is 100m longand has seven arches, the largest ofwhich is 7m wide.

Karaköprü (Karasu Bridge)

Located on the Diyarbak›r–Mardinhighway, this stone bridge spansKarasu Stream and was built by SultanMurad IV in the 17th century. With sixarches, the largest 9m wide, thebridge is 74m long. The vaults under-neath are circular. The bridge has lostsome of its original character thanksto renovations over the years.

Kara Köprü (120)

A shepherd near by the City (121)

Ergani (Erxenî)

Situated 55km northwest of Diyarbak›ron the highway to Elaz›¤, the town ofErgani sits below the southern slopesof Mount Zülküf, at the edge of theErgani Plain. The surrounding district(population 61,973) has been part ofDiyarbak›r since 1923. Once manyArmenians lived here, but since the1920s the majority of population hasbeen mixture of Kurmanji and Zazakispeakers along with some ethnicTurks, locally called Qaqo, a smallcommunity of Georgians who migratedfrom the Kars and Artvin provinces ofnortheast Turkey, and even somemigrants from Bulgaria.

For years there has been a friendlyrivalry between Diyarbak›r and Ergani,and people from the former like tomake Ergani folk the butt of lighthearted jokes. There are also jokesdirected at Zaza speakers, especiallythose who live in Diyarbak›r, forexample labelling them as people wholove to put red onion in most of theirmeals; as locals think of the onion ofbeing a stiff substance, this is aninoffensive way of alluding to what isregarded the stubbornness of Zazaspeakers.

Besides agriculture and livestock, thelocal economy includes some lightindustry, producing cement, flour andmilk. Local grapes are highlyregarded, and in past times wineproduction was also undertaken by theArmenian community. Ergani town hasa number of places to eat on the mainstreet but no accommodation apartfrom the ö¤retmenevi (0412) 611 58 23.

Sevenp›nar (Hilar)

Located 7km southwest of Erganitown, Sevenp›nar (Hilar) village isknown for the spectacular Hilar caves.


Hilar caves(122)

Making Pestil (123)

Diyarbak›r/Ergani 259

Close by is an archaeological sitecalled Çayönü which was settled asearly as 9000 BC. With such historicalriches, Hilar is a village that is visitedby treasure hunters, and Romans,Byzantine and Artukid coins have beenuncovered in the village and its sur-roundings. The village is also the siteof a festival held at the end of Apriland the beginning of May. Organisedby a local conservation group and themunicipality, it includes seminars byhistorians and archaeologists on theimportance of the remains here, aswell as small-scale culturalperformances.

Just before you enter the village youwill see the caves on both sides of themain road. One of these on the right issaid to have been variously used as acaravanserai and a prison, and couldhouse 200 people; it features ninemanmade rock columns (two nowsmashed) and a large gate.

Around 50m on your righ, you willcome across some rock tombs (kayamezarlar›), each belonging to adifferent family. Note the reliefsoutside one cave showing a man ofapparently noble ancestry and a sittingwoman covered with plain cloth, asthough watching rituals that wouldhave happened here. This particularcave also has crescent-shapeddecorations to either side of theentrance, there are also some Syriacwritings can be found nearby thereliefs.

On the left of the road is a tower saidto have been used by the watchmen ofthe city. Just after that stretches a lineof caves. Outside the caves is a smallchamber with a narrow mouth carvedinto the rock and believed to havecontained more rock tombs. One ofthese is referred to as the (grave of

the) King’s Daughter (K›ral K›z›) by thelocals, and can be identified throughcarvings of a man and women andabstract symbols to its right. Justbelow the grave is a site locals call itMasere, where a large flat stone and anumber large holes placed which onceused for wine making.

Leading upward from this areatowards the village is a tunnel calledK›rk Merdiven (Çil Pêlik in Kurdish),with 40 steps visible taking you deepunderground to a spring, now dry.

Among the tombs and caves on theright is a rectangular Sun Temple(Günefl Tap›na¤›), with seats and stepsfacing the morning sun. The outline ofthe temple foundations can be seenclearly. Historians have contradictory

A view of the Hilar caves(124)

Garve stone(126)

Figure, Hilar caves(125)


ideas about the temple, but crescent-shaped decorations on the facade arethought by some to indicate that it wasa place of solar worship.

There are several more caves south-west of the village. The cavereferred to as Hamam of theKing’s Daughter (K›ralK›z› Hamam›) has morestriking reliefs. Just atthe start of the rocksis the grave ofsomeone called Sarkis(K›ral Sarkis Mezar›)from which many reliefsare said to be beenremoved. The land is a vineyardnowadays. More archaeologicalexcavation stared again by theDiyarbak›r Museum since 2006.

Çayönü Tumulus

This site, on the Çayönü or Qotê BerÇem (as local people refer to it)riverbank behind the Hilar graves is aprotected archaeological area andsignposted. To reach it, backtrack tothe Han Cave and take the side roadleading down to the river, and thencarry on 1km to the site. This tumulus

is the oldest-known settlement in neareast, a window onto the lives of one ofthe earliest agricultural communitiesdating to approximately 7000 BC.Excavated between 1964 and 1991, it isof particular importance as settlementhere spans the change from a hunter-gatherer lifestyle to settled cultivationof crops such as wheat and barley, andthe domestication of animals such asgoats, sheep and dogs. Copperresources nearby allowed people toproduce some very early hand toolsmade of the metal.

The settlement is 200m indiameter and at one

time may have had upto 200 inhabitants inup to 50 buildings,with a plan ofsuggesting a central

square surroundedby rectangular houses.

There are severalhistorical strata, showing a

transition from simple cookingpits to dwellings of various degrees ofsophistication, including houses oflimestone or adobe and sometimesstone foundations. Although there arefew visible remains at the site, itemsuncovered during the excavations canbe viewed in Diyarbak›r’s museum.

Mount Zülküfiland the Virgin Mary Church

The mountain (also called PeygamberDa¤› or Makam Da¤› meaning“Prophet Mountain”) is so namedbecause a prophet named Zülküf(Ezekiel) is thought to have lived hereonce, and the peak is therefore apilgrimage site. The magnificentsummit, 5km from the town, is alsothe location of the Meryem Ana (VirginMary) Church. There was a tomb here,but some believe that the prophet isactually buried in E¤il district, andthere is also a tomb in Iraq namedafter him. The tomb was actually

Ani

mal

fuel

(127

)

K›rk Merdiven (129)

(128)Çayönü

Diyarbak›r/Ergani 261

destroyed in 1926, after which relicsfrom it were moved to foundations inDiyarbak›r and ‹stanbul. A small shrinewas rebuilt in the late 1950s; it iscomposed of three parts, namelyplaces for men and women to prayseparately and a section said to havebeen the tomb of Zülküf. Below are theremains of a fortress and asettlement, plus a hamam, well anddwellings. Locals like to picnic nearthe tomb and as ever the tomb itself isvisited by the infirm and women whohave difficulty conceiving, who if theymanage to have children subsequentlywill name them Zülküf or Zülfiye.

Walking from the back of the tombtowards the cliffs you will come to theremains of the church overlooking theTigris River and once apparently waspart of a monastery. A Polish traveller

named Simeon visited here in 1612and described the structure as amagnificent building where there wasa prosperous village with anotherchurch. Formerly the church was ahuge two-storeyed affair withhundreds of rooms plus wells andhuge ornamented columns. Artefactsfound among the ruins suggest thatthe interior was decorated withcolourful mosaics.

The Tomb of Prophet Enûfl(Ziyareta Enûfl Pêxember)

Enûfl (Enoch) is believed to have livedand been buried near Otluca (Qizilce)village, 14km southwest of Erganitown. To reach his tomb (Ziyareta EnûflPêxember), drive 10km along thehighway to Çermik and then take theleft-hand turning for the village andcontinue 4km.

Local people make pilgrimages here atthe end of Ramadan and for the Feastof the Sacrifice (Kurban), many ofthem slaughtering a rooster in thecourse of their visit. The site can bereached by driving or on a villagedolmufl which arrives in the morningand departs in the afternoon.

Zülküfil Mt, Prophet Enûs (130)

A view Virgin Mary church in Ergani(131)

Çermik (fiamkûfl)


Çermik town is located on the slopesof Mount Heykel 80km of northwest ofDiyarbak›r. The surrounding district(population 17,825) became part ofDiyarbak›r during the Republican Era,though previously it was part of thesanjak of Ergani. The town is wellknown for its grapes but also hassome historical attractions, mainlydating back to Artukid times, as wellas a popular spa, making it one of themost visited in the area. Thepopulation is a mixture of Turcomansand Zazaki- and Kurmanji-speaking.

The spa facilities attract more than200,000 people annually and contributesignificantly to the local economy, asdoes marble quarrying. The spa andthe town’s other attractions arecelebrated by the annual Queen Belk›sThermal Waters Festival (MelikeBelk›s Kapl›calar› Festivali), held inJuly. A fairly diverse affair, the festivalincludes traditional music and dance,presentations concerning the waters,activities such as fishing and promo-tions offering free entrance to the spa.

It’s worth trying the most well-knownlocal food speciality, meftune, an oven-

cooked dish consisting of lamb,aubergine, tomatoes, sumac andgarlic. The area is also known for anentertainment for the ladies, whichtraditionally accompanies springtime.It is believed that a woman whosewishes have been granted by Godshould invite female neighbours for apicnic in which a goat kid is sacrificedand delicious meals are prepared byeveryone; the women dress up in theirbest clothes and sing songs anddance. The event also gives attendantmothers whose sons are atmarriageable age the possibility tochoose a beautiful bride for her son.

Gelin Mt (132)

Making Pestil (133)

Diyarbak›r/Çermik 263

Çermik Hot Spring

Situated 3km outside the town centreis this signposted resort with a hugechoice of accommodation (see p:266),restaurants and various shops. Thespa water is at 48°C and bathing in it(drinking is not advised) is said to beable to ameliorate respiratory, gynae-cological and skin conditionsas well as rheuma-tism. Somepatients areofficially senthere by theMedical

Faculty of Dicle University inDiyarbak›r, though it should be notedthat people with heart conditions arerecommended not to use the spawithout the assent of their doctors.

Open all day till late, the spa is easilyvisited on a day-trip from Diyarbak›r.There are two large pools for men andwomen respectively, and some privateen-suite facilities are available.

Saray Hamam

Located in the center of the town inthe Saray quarter is this disusedhamam, dating from the 16th or 17thcentury. The exterior of the site hasbeen restored and when the interior isrenovated, the hamam will be open tothe public. Until then, visitors will need

to arrange to collect thekeys from the municipality

(0412 461 20 01).

The changingroom, with atiled dome andcontainingcircularwindows, has a

Hot springs, Çermik (134)

Çermik house (135)

Saray Hamam›(136)


pool in the middle. In the northwest ofthe changing room is a low vaulteddoor giving access to a rectangulararea with a window and lantern. Thefloors are all covered withcobblestones.

Çermik Kalesi (Kela Çêrmûkê/Kela fiamkûflê)

On a craggy hill in the west of the townis this ancient, ruined fortress, whichhas yet to be excavated. Survivingparts include one complete gate,several cisterns, a well and a churchwall. It is said that the fortress wasinhabited until Ottomans attacked withartillery, at which point the inhabitantsfled into the plains where theirdescendants have lived ever since.

Ulu Cami (Mizgefta Mezin)

The Ulu Cami, also called Camii Atikand Sultan Alaaddin Selçuki Camii inhistorical records, is located in theKale quarter. According to a two-lineinscription in Kufic script, it was builtby Abu Mansur ‹nall›, the Inalid rulerfrom Diyarbak›r, in 1144/45, while aninscription in relief on the minaretstates that it was built by Seljuk SultanAlaeddin III (1297–1302) soon after thedestruction wrought by the Mongols. Inthe east of the mosque, a fourcornered structure with dome hasbeen added by Çermik sanjak leaderfiah Ali in 1517. In the mosque also isthe piece of dark blue cloth, consid-ered sacred and believed to have beenonce covered the Prophet’s coffin.Preserved by the local MütevellilerTribe, who are believed to havemigrated here from Mecca, the cloth isexhibited at mid-afternoon prayers atthe Korban (Kurban) Festival eachyear. One section of the cloth is kept atBingöl’s Ulu Cami.

The figures which appear on a nearbymountain which can be seen from themosque are a reference to a bridalprocession, called Çîyayê Bukê inKurmanji and Koyê Veyvek in Zazaki. It

Haburman Bridge(137)

Locals from Ergani (138)

Diyarbak›r/Çermik 265

is believed that people attending theceremony were turned to stone becausethey were disrespectful of a blessing byone of the female guests.

Haburman Bridge

Also in the Kale quarter is theHaburman Bridge, which takes its namefrom the nearby village. Spanning theSinek Stream, this three-arched bridgehas been built in 1198/1199 with fundsfrom Zübeyde Hatun the daughter ofArtukian Necmeddin Albi. Its originalpurpose was to form part of a connec-tion between the Ahlat–Tabriz (Iran)road and the Urfa–Aleppo (Syria) road,which would have enabled people tobypass Diyarbak›r where the rival ‹nall›(Inalid) and Nisanl› Dynasties weredominant.

Built up of large white stone blocks, thebridge is 106m long and 5.5m wide, andslopes upwards from both ends to reachits maximum height of 19m high in thecentre. There are three inscriptions onthe bridge, two of which are about itsconstruction while the third concerns arenovation.

Sinek (Sînak) Bridge

The remains of this bridge over theSinek Stream are limited to just two

stumps. In the Kale quarter, the bridgewas probably built in the late 12thcentury and was once 51.8m long, withtwo arches. Unfortunately it wasdestroyed by floods in 1973; a temporarysuspension bridge was used until aconcrete replacement was built in 1999.

A Synagogueand some Church Remains

The Kale quarter contains a synagoguewhich remains in good condition, thoughlittle about its provenance is known.Built of basalt rock and set in a largecourtyard, it is now the residence of aTurcoman family, who use most of it forstorage and will show you around onrequest. Locals found and removed alarge number of books andhand-written manuscripts in the mainprayer room.

Sinek Bridge (139)

Synagogue (140)


Some 150m away are the remains ofthe town’s only church – just a founda-tion stone and a large stone bearingArmenian writing with symbols on bothsides. A private home has been builton the orginal place of the church.

Rock Art at Sinek Creek

Driving from Çermik toÇüngüfl, you will see asigned waterfall on theleft of the road at the6km mark. Some700m north of thewaterfalls are cavescalled Kayaalt›S›¤›naklar› (meaningKayaalt› Shelters) andcontaining ancient rock artdepicting hunting. Excavations

here in 2005 uncovered 16 images ofanimals and one of 11 hunters withbows, which date back to 15,000 to13,000 years ago (the Upper Paleolithicand Mesolithic Ages), making theoldest examples of their kind inAnatolia. More animal images werefound underneath a calcareous layer,including depictions of goats andmembers of the cat family.

The Tomb of fieyh Fevzi

fieyh Fevzi was born in Kümtere(Kemtere) village near Derik (inMardin) in 1931, and lost his sight as aresult of an illness when he was 7. Hesettled in Çermik in 1946 and livedhere thereafter. A member of thepowerful tribe of seyyids called MalaBub, he was considered the mirror ofspirituality among the people, andupon his death in 1978 he was buriedin a graveyard called Heykel Önü in theTepe quarter. His tomb has no specialarchitectural merit but is often visitedby locals.

The Tomb of Hac› Mehmet Baba

Born in Gürüz (Gûriz) village10km from Çermik, Hac›

Baba was muchrespected locally andperformed manypilgrimages onThursdays andFridays. His tomb in

Karatafl (Çivan) village,10km southwest of

Çermik, is visited by manylocals especially on holy days.

All of Çermik’s accommodation is in the spa area, which has a staggering largenumber of hotels and guesthouses. Choices include the Kapl›ca Turistik Hotel(0412 461 23 23, a four-star place very close to the spa and with a restaurantoutside; the Büyük Akda¤ Apart Hotel (0412 461 42 46), where there is norestaurant but the rooms have catering facilities; and the Yayla Hotel (0412 46120 95), a small place with a tea garden at the back.

Accommodation

The synagogue’s care taker (141)

Rock art(142)

Çüngüfl (Çîngûfl)

Diyarbak›r/Çüngüfl 267

Pestil making in Çüngüfl (143)

In the far west of the province, Çüngüsis a cosy little town around 80km fromDiyarbak›r as the crow flies. It clings tothe side of the mountain at an altitudeof 1000m in a rugged area, with theKarakaya Dam on the Euphrates to thewest. Completed in 1987, the dam isthe third largest in the GAP Project(see p: 67) and contains sixgenerators, each with a capacity of 300megawatts.

The town got its name after theOttoman Pasha Kapk›ran Mehmet AliPafla visited in 1596 and called theplace “Çün Gufl” meaning “incoher-ent”. He was aiming not only to put anend to disorderly settlements but alsoto introduce new infrastructure,including waterworks and transportlinks. Of the several civilizations whichheld sway in the area, the Artukidswere of particular benefit to the town.Under their control the town flourishedand the Silk Road traffic was secure,and the Artukids left a considerablelegacy in terms of hamams, fountains,bridges and mosques.

Çüngüfl district (population 2,930) wasa subdistrict of Siverek Sanjak in 1880,Çermik Sanjak in 1883 anddowngraded to a village at the end ofWorld War I, though in 1953 it becamea district of Diyarbak›r. The inhabitantsof the area are migrant Turks,Turcomans and Zaza speakers. Untilthe 1920s the town and surroundingarea also had many Armenianresidents, as is clear from theArmenian names of settlements andhome-made wines mentioned in

Çüngüfl house (144)


Çüngüfl Monastery (145)

records. As the district is largelymountains, cultivable areas tend to belimited to those close to streams. Themain crops include grapes, cotton,watermelons.

It is worth strolling uphill through thetown to see some interesting oldhouses, nicely decorated with muralsand woodwork and with doors builtpartly of metal, with interestingshapes; you will find the houses onyour left and a few moredown below the CamiiKebir quarter. Some ofthe houses aredilapidated but you canask locals if you cantake a photo or two ofthem. The town’sold-fashioned mill, withanimals powering thegrindstone, is inside a housenot far from Çüngufl Church.

If you are here in September, youmight be able to take part in the three-day Üzüm, Bal, Pestil ve Nar Festivali,organised by the municipality andcelebrating the area’s grapes, honey,pestil (thin sheets of sun-dried fruit)and pomegranates. Needless to say,

these commodities are served to par-ticipants and the very best examples ofthese products are awarded prizes, butthe festival also includes a concert(indeed one of the people behind it isthe singer ‹zzet Alt›nmefle).

Monastery

At the entrance to Çüngüfl town arethe remains of an Armenianmonastery, located on a hill near the

road to the Turcomanvillage of Aktafl,

300–400m from themain road beforeyou enter thetown centre. Thesite, including itsgarden, occupies

an area of 1500square metres. The

only part of theperimeter wall that

survives is in the east, but youaccess the site through a low gate inthe west. Just above the gate are threearches, the largest placed in themiddle. In the northeast corner is achapel accessed through a gate in thewest. This basilica-planned monastery,said to have been built in the 15th

Old waterMil stone (146)


century, has three naves on each sideseparated with columns.

Tomb of Hasan Dede

In a small graveyard at the entrance tothe town is the tomb of Hasan Dede,about whom very little is known. Theentrance is the adjacent structure inthe north, called a dervish lodge andsaid to have been added later on.Accessed through a circular vaultedgate, the tomb is covered with a lowdome and contains three graves, thelarge one belonging to Hasan Dedehimself while the other two belong tohis sons. The tomb is not decorated andhas no inscription dating it, though it isthought to be from the 16th century.

Ali Bey Camii

Opposite the municipality in the towncentre in Camii Suk quarter, thismosque can be picked out from thesurrounding buildings thanks to itsminaret. According to inscriptions, onein Arabic and one in Turkish, themosque was built by Yulad’s son Ali inAH 1095, while the minaret was built inAH 1117. An attractive gate in thenortheast gives access to thecourtyard with ablution taps, a fountainin the northern part of the outer wall

and a small storeroom in west. Thepraying area has a vaulted entrance,and to the east is a minaret with asquare base. Just behind the minaretis rectangular room belonging to themuezzin, accessed through stairs.

Further west in the prayer area is alower vaulted access into the women’ssection, with three naves linked withcusped arches. The harem is illumi-nated with the windows on all direc-tions.

Çüngüfl Hamam

Around 100m southwest of the Ali BeyMosque is this hamam, thought to datefrom the 17th century and no longer inuse, though visitors can get the keysfrom the municipality. The structure isaccessed through a western gatewhich gives onto a square changingroom, covered with an octagonal domefrom which a lantern hangs. The warmroom has three sections encircled withterraces for people to sit at. In the hotroom you will find a dome with holesproviding illumination, while to thenorthwest and northeast of the sameroom are small rooms, themselvesdomed and with floors covered incobble-like stones. The hamam hasundergone several renovations inwhich several concrete iwans wereconstructed in front of the gate, whilethe main dome was restored in 1975.

Merkez Ulya Camii

Prominently located on a terracedslope, this mosque appears to be

Hasan Dede tomb (147)

Ali Bey Camii (148)


Çüngüfl Church(149)

single-storeyed viewed from the north,and three-storeyed from south.Accessed through the stairs downfrom the courtyard, the lower floor isthe residence of the muezzin (it is alsosaid to have been used as a madrasah)and has been indeed designed like ahome, with a long narrow corridoralong which rooms are placed. Theupper floor is the prayer area, thoughin its northern section is a women’ssection whose wall is soundproofed,with two naves parallel to the mihrab.The minbar is built of walnut wood anddecorated with plant motifs.

The door and window jambs have beenbuilt up of stone blocks while the restof this rectangular mosque has beenbuilt up of broken stones.

The date 1870 appears on the entrancegate, but exactly who originally builtthe mosque and when is unknown.

Ulu Cami

Located on a slope in the Cami-i Kebirquarter in the west of town, the UluCami is a converted 13th-centurychurch according to some sources,

though others emphasise an 1134inscription containing the name ofMahmud bin Abdullah, although it isnot clear whether this relates to con-struction or renovation. The onlyaccess is through a small gate in thesouth to the praying area extended outtowards the west and encircled with awall. In the northern side is a doorleading into the trapezoidal-shapedwomen’s section whose west wall issoundproofed. The mihrab is circularand undecorated, while the minbar isprobably a more recent addition. Thestructure generally has been built upof uncut stones but stone blocks havebeen used for window jambs. The useof oil paints used in the interior hasspoiled the originality of the mosque.

Çüngüfl Church (Dêra Çingûflê)

This 15th-century church is at thehighest point in the Cami-i Kebirquarter on a terraced slope, with acommanding view of the whole town.The church occupies 500 squaremetres on an east–west axis, with12m-high walls. The north and southfacades are symmetrical and a chapel


has been placed at all four corners ofthe facades, though only two remain.The chapel in the west has two loop-holes below and two above, while theeastern one has two illuminating win-dows above.

Look up to the ceiling to see clay jugsinserted in order to reflect sounddownwards and reinforce the impact ofthe religious music.

Çüngüfl Bridge

Located at the end of the Cami-i Kebirquarter is this single-arched, vaultedbridge, which spans the Çüngüfl Creekand once carried Silk Road traffic. Thebridge is 17m long, 5m wide and 15.2mhigh, and its supporting pillars areplaced natural rock on either side. Thearch itself measures 8.7m and is builtof stone blocks while the rest is ofbroken stones. The bridge, whichunderwent thorough restoration in2006 is said to have been built alongwith Ali Bey Camii by Kap›k›ranMehmet Ali Pafla in the 17th century. Ifyou cross the bridge, turn around and

look up to your left, and you will see abeautiful residence in two sections, thesmaller part of which is perched ontop of a steep cliff with a woodenbridge linking it with the main house.

Adefl Village Church

The small and beautiful village ofDe¤irmen Suyu (Adefl), 4km fromÇüngüfl, contains a church placed atthe edge of a cliff overlooking a deepvalley by Çüngüfl Creek and theEuphrates. With its high walls thechurch looks like a three-storeyhouse. In the south, built as an annexto the church, is another structurecurrently inhabited by villagers. Thechurch is accessed through a gate inthe west. Unlike other churches inÇüngüfl, it does not have largewindows beside the gate, but there is aloophole at each side. Being at the soillevel there aren’t any windows in thenorth but a loophole for each nave inthe east. Nearby are the ruins of anold water mill.

Adafl Church (150)

Çüngüfl Bridge (151)

E¤il (Gêl)


Assyrian rock tombs (152)

With some of the most impressivehistorical sites of Diyarbak›r, a settingby the Tigris and hospitable locals(almost entirely Zazaki-speakers), thesmall town of E¤il has plenty tointerest visitors though it has a lowprofile even in Turkey. The town, whichlies 48km north of Diyarbak›r in avalley just west of the Tigris, is alsobelieved to have been home to theProphets Zülküf and Elyesa, and isthus also a minor religious centre.

There are various theories as to howthe town got its name. Thefamous Ottoman travellerEvliya Çelebi called itGel, while thefierefname – thehistorical chronicleby the Kurdish lordfierefxané Bitlisi –mentions the tale of aholy man calling thelocal fortress “e¤il”,meaning “bend down” inTurkish. E¤il only became a district(current population 6,122) in 1987.Recently discovered oil resources andthe Dicle Dam (part of the GAP Project,see p:67) have given a boost to thelocal economy.

In 1997, despite protests by locals andenvironmental campaigners, the

government went ahead withthe building of a dam

which submerged theentire ÇarkörenMahallesi along withhistorical sites suchas a bazaar and theTekke Hamam, though

a number of prophet’stombs were moved

beforehand.

There are number of tea gardens anda fish restaurant called Asur near themunicipal ferry jetty where boats toDicle and Hani depart. The restaurantis a good place to try freshly fried fishfrom the Tigris.

Cross sign fromcave church (154)

Water way near Assyrian rock tombs (153)

Diyarbak›r/E¤il 273

E¤il Kalesi (Kela Gêl)

Placed on a massive rock, this fortressis surrounded by walls and has valleyson three sides. Before you head up tothe castle, look out on the right forwhat is thought to be an Assyrian rulerdepicted on a western rock face; thebest time to identify the figure is in theafternoon.

Occupying an area larger than threefootball fields, the fortress functionedas a refuge during wars and also aplace to store important resources.Four tunnels were dug down from thefortress to the Tigris to serve as anescape route and also so that watercould be brought up to the site. Justbelow the largest remaining room arenumber of stone chairs for the kingand his ministers.

Also inside the fortress and just to thewest of the figure of Assyrian King is acave church (ma¤ara kilisesi), whichhas many crosses marked on the rockrepresenting different periods. It isbelieved to have been visited by one ofChrist’s apostles in the first century toestablish a Christian monastery andEpiscopal centre. You need to use anarrow path to ascend around 5m up arocky cliff to get to the cave.

Another prominent figure from thismonastery is one Musa, who wrote abiography of the Prophet Yusuf(Joseph) and his wife. Musa was born

and lived in E¤il in 6th century andlived in the region. Theodoto is anotherprominent figure, born in E¤il. Hebecame well known in Diyarbak›r andsurroundings through curingorthopaedic diseases and comfortingdesperate people. Taking over respon-sibilities at different monasteries, heworked as a peace mediator betweenArabs and Romans as well. He passedaway in 698 and is considered amongthe saints of the 7th century.

Deran Hamam

Located on a large creek in the Deranarea is a hamam connected to thefortress through an undergroundtunnel. Functioning until recently, thisstructure has been submerged underthe water and can be seen only whenwater level drops by several metres.Two large arches are the onlysurviving parts.

Water Cistern

There are three water channels carvedout of the rock and leading from thefortress down to the river – twochannels in the north and one to thesouth. This surviving structureresembles the well-known YerebatanCistern in ‹stanbul. The town’s waterwas supplied from afar using earthenpipes leading to this cistern, and fromthere distributed to hamams, mosquesand fountains. Some of these earthenpipes have been uncovered during theexcavations north of town hall.

E¤il Kalesi (155)

Assyrian ruler (156)


Taciyan Camii

Four walls and a small part of a tileddome with Kufic inscriptions are allthat survive of this Artukid mosque, ona valley slope south of E¤il Fortress.

The Assyrian Rock Tombs

Located near the Dicle Damnortheast of the fortressare some rock tombswhose Turkish name(Asur K›ral KayaMezarlar›) indicatestheir association withthe Assyrians. Ferriesfrom the municipaljetty stop here onrequest and will wait foryou so you can have a quick lookaround and take some pictures.

The tombs have been carved intocylindrical shapes sitting side by sidelike rosary beads, and surrounded by alarge number of caves. Within thetombs you will find some columns andpaintings, while opposite the tombs on

the other side of the valley are anumber of stone pyramids.

The Prophets’ Tombs

On the road to Diyarbak›r 3km out ofE¤il town is a signposted road to NebiHarun Hill on whose summit are theso-called prophets’ tombs (peygambermezarlar› in Turkish or gorên pêxem-beran in Kurdish). The area is verypopular with locals as a pilgrimagesite and for weekend picnics.

A panel at the tomb of Nebi Harunreads: “This tomb belongs to Berhiya’sson Harun-i Asefi who was the clerk ofthe Prophet Suleyman. He approxi-mately lived in 900 BC.” Nearby isanother grave belonging to Harun ‹bn-i

Pir-i Can according to theinscription.

The six-metre tomb ofElyesa (Elisha) wasmoved to the hill toavoid beingsubmerged when thedam was built, and is

visited mainly onThursday evenings. A

panel here says that“Elyesa is the son of Ehtub and

cousin of ‹lyas. He approximately livedin 1200 BC.”

As in Ergani, a possible tomb for theProphet Zülküf makes an appearanceon top of the hill. This particular tombused to stand in the Hac›yan area 4kmfrom town, and was moved here in1995 to avoid being submerged. Zülküfis mentioned twice in the Koran as atolerant of people in general, includingthose hostile to him.

Kalkan (fielbetin)

The village of Kalkan (fielbetin), 12kmsouth of E¤il on a tumulus on theDiyarbak›r road, used to be of strategicimportance thanks to its position atthe start the fertile Diyarbak›r Plainsand at the junction of important trade

Taciyan Camii(157)

Stone graves(158)

Assyrian rock tombs (159)

Diyarbak›r/E¤il 275

routes. As a result, the E¤il rulers LalaKas›m Beg and his successor MuratBeg had a caravanserai, hamam,madrasah and mosque built inthe village.

The caravanserai, on a small hilloverlooking a tributary of the Tigris, isa long, straight, flat-roofed stonebuilding. An Arabic inscription statesthat it was built in 1561–1562 by MuratBeg and named in honour of his uncleKas›m Bin fiah Mehmet Beg.Nowadays the ground floor is used asa barn.

Around 200m northwest of thecaravanserai are two cupolas on asmall hill, one as a tomb for Kas›mBeg, the other for Cafer Beg. Said tohave been built in the 16th century, the

cupolas are built of basalt and haveconical roofs, but are now rather worn.Each of their faces has a large windowof identical size and shape. Thecupolas have no ornamentation andone has been largely pillaged forbuilding materials; there aren’t anytraces of graves inside either cupola.

Selman Kalesi

The fortress near the village ofSelman, 10km southeast of E¤il, is oneof relatively few that are wellpreserved; most of the walls and gatesstill stand. To reach it, drive 3km southout of the village and then walk 500mto the site.

Prophet tombs(160)

Kalkan (fielbetin) (162)

The tomb of Prophet Harun (161)

Dicle (Pîran)

Old houses in Dicle (163)


Some 85km north of Diyarbak›r, Dicleis a Zazaki-speaking town whichbecame a district in its own right (pop-ulation 12,227) in 1938. The town has aspecial place in Kurdish politicalhistory as the location of the first majormeeting between Sheikh Said (seep:139), leader of the Kurdish rebellionin the 1920s, and a group of Hamidiyesoldiers along with Zaza tribal leaders.It was also where his armed struggleagainst the Turkish republic began.The old name of town “Piran” means“scholar”; the town was given its cur-

rent name (which is in fact the Turkishname for the Tigris) duringthe republican era.

Centrally located on a hill dominatingthe town are some caves with theperimeter of a military base andbelieved to have been settled byhumans in the past. Nowadays, peopleare allowed to make pilgrimages onThursdays, to the Tomb of Sheikh Yusufalso within the military base. From uphere you can easily observe the town’sold fortress, which is in ruins.

War plan map against Sheikh Said rebellion (164)

The oldest mosque in town is theYukar› Camii, located in the Yefliltepequarter (Mahalleyi Celo in Zazaki). Itsage and builder are unknown, but it isprobably late Ottoman, though thebeautifully ornamented minaret wasadded more recently. The mosque ispartitioned into two by a big woodendoor. Three old graves in the smallyard have headstones nicely decoratedwith verses from Koran. Unlike atother local mosques, the ablution areais indoors rather than outside.

Finally, there are two fountains in theYefliltepe quarter of Dicle district. Oneis called Eyni Ceyno (Women’sFountain), where women gather tosocialise and wash large items such ascarpets. Just behind is the AyniComêrdo (Men’s Fountain). Both arebuilt of yellow limestone and have anarch-shaped recess at the base.

Pir Mansur Türbesi

This tomb, which villagers call PirMansur Ziyareti, is located in a grave-yard near Kocaalan (Dîrey) village, 5kmeast of Dicle. This large rectangularstructure has a door inscriptionstating: “Haza Mescid-i Mansur, date1611”. Also here are the graves ofpeople believed to be descendants ofPir Mansur.

The Rock of the King’s Daughter(K›ral K›z› Tafl›)

On the southern slope of a valley bythe Maden Stream is a huge rock on

which two windows have been carved,making it look vaguely like a house. Itis located on the Diyarbak›r road some7km west of Dicle and 1km east ofDaxon village, but is best viewed fromthe roadside as it is fairly inaccessible.To the right of the rock is an obeliskand further down a single-windowedstone grave, whose local name trans-lates as “King’s Daughter’s Rock” bylocals. According to legend, a kingpunished his beautiful daughter forfalling in love with a shepherd byimprisoning her here. The guards,witnessing two pigeons flying outthrough the window, realised that thegirl was not there the next day. Thereis said to be treasure inside, a notionsupposedly based on tales of storksflying from here with a piece of carpetor kilim in their mouths.

Diyarbak›r/Dicle 277

Tigris river (165)

Women fountain (166) Graves in Yuka› camii (167)

Hani (Hênê)


On rugged terrain 1200m up, Hani townis 86km north of Diyarbak›r and gets itsname from the Zazaki word (hênê)(“fountain”). The area became a districtof Diyarbak›r province in 1958 and nowhas a population of 8,292. In the centreand nearby villages the inhabitants aremostly Zazaki-speakers, though thereare also some Kurmanji-speakingvillages. To either side of Ambar Creekvegetables and grain are grown forself-consumption, while some peoplealso keep livestock.

Hani town is encircled by thesouthern Taurus Mountains to the northand slopes down gradually towards thesouth. At first glance the town maycome across as conservative; in factthis is the only district town ofDiyarbak›r where there are relativelyfew women in the streets and most ofthose you do see are in black chadorand wear the veil. That said, the localsare friendly and may well offer you localtea and even show you around a little.

Ulu Cami (Hani Camii)

Centrally placed near the town hall isthe Ulu Cami, which is thought to be

Artukid. In the west of the mosque is agate leading into the courtyard, inwhose northwest corner are doors giv-ing access to two different sections forwomen to pray, connected to eachother and with a roof of clay tiles. Thewestern and eastern parts of themosque have three and two navesrespectively, parallel to the south wall.The stone minaret nearby the mosqueis rectangular and unadorned. Themosque was restored a few years ago,as well as much in 1657 and 1682according to inscriptions, i› is wheremost of the locals gather at the teahouses near by the pool.

Children from Hani(168)

Hani Ulu Cami (169)

Diyarbak›r/Hani 279

Hatuniye (Zeynebiye) Madrasah

This newly restored madrasah, roughly300m southwest of Ulu Cami, isthought to be a late-13th-centuryArtukid construction. On the north sideis a beautiful iwan with a fountain,while at the opposite end is themihrab, nicely decorated with Koranicverses, and on the right of this is aroom containing a small pool. Alsostriking are the geometric decorationand masonry work of the mihrab andthe two windows of the domed roomsin the main hall, the areas above whichhave been decorated with Arabiccalligraphy and vegetal motifs.

Aynkebir Pool

Just below the Ulu Cami and next tothe Hatuniye Madrasah, this largepool dates all the way back to theHurrians in 2000 BC, and is fed bywater from the slopes of Mount Hani.The water builds up in a naturalunderground reservoir and thenemerges through nine conduits at thebase of the wall on one side of thepool. The very same water, which isclear and said to be drinkable, helpsto irrigate some of the land in thearea and once powered eight mills aswell. The teahouses near the poolmake an ideal place to relax andenjoy views of the pool and the UluCami, and are popular with locals. Aynkebir pool (172)

Hatuniye (Zeynebiye) Madrasah (171)

A local woman (170)


Sheikh Bedrettin Türbesi

This stone tomb on a rectangular plansits within a nice garden in the Dereliquarter of the town, a few hundredmeters down from the HatuniyeMadrasah. The entrance is cusp-vaulted and has an Arabic inscriptionindicating a date of construction of AH1292. A small window illuminates theinterior. The tomb is in two sections,one containing three graves said to bebelongs to two brothers and a sisterof Sheikh Bedrettin, while theSheikh’s own grave is in an open areabehind. The tomb is regularly visitedby locals, mostly women.

Mosque and Tomb of SeyyidCaferi Tayyar

Located in the Zirve quarter in theupper part of town, this building is rec-tangular in plan and built of limestone,with a wooden roof. The minaret isrectangular in cross-section and has aconical top. Caferi Tayyar is thought tohave been buried here after beingmartyred in a war. His tomb is visitedby many locals who come to read theKoran and pray, mostly on Thursdayevenings. Both mosque and tomb wererenovated in 1978.

Ankeris (Ava Sipî) Spring

Also called fiifal› Su (“Medical Water”)by the locals, the spring is under alarge mulberry tree in the Veziriquarter, 2km from the town centre onthe road to the Lice district. Bathingin, and indeed drinking from, thesmall pool is said to cure livercomplaints, and draws many peoplefrom various provinces especially inthe early morning.

Sheikh Bedreddin Türbesi (174)

Tomb of Seyyid Caferi Tayyar(173)

Aynkeris (Ava Spî) spring (175)

Lice (Licê)

A traditional meal (kaburga dolmas›) (176)

Diyarbak›r/Lice 281

Lice town (population 13,118), namedfiirifla in Assurian records and Il›ca inOttoman records, is 85km northeast ofDiyarbak›r at the foot of Mount Akda¤,though it used to be situated on thehillside until that settlement was hit byan earthquake in 1975, which killed2800 and destroyed 8000 houses. Theunrest of the 1990s brought a secondshock as thousands migrated toDiyarbak›r and the cities of westernTurkey, but today the town hasrecovered its equilibrium. Walnuts,grapes are the main products of thedistrict, and some employment is alsoprovided by a marble factory built bythe businessman Halis Toprak (who isoriginally from Lice).

Ulu Cami

This mosque, also called Vak›f AhmetBey Camii, is in old Lice, abandonedsince the earthquake, in the middle ofa valley through which a clear waterflows. The mosque was built in 1540 byAhmet Bey, a descendant of HasanEzraki. After a fire in 1845, the struc-ture was renovated and expanded byHac› Sadullah Bey in 1875. The prayer

areas have been separated withcolumns and large pointed vaults.

Birkleyn Caves

These three caves extending parallelto one another into the rock arelocated on the Bingöl–Mufl highway,26km from Lice on the right side of themain road; bring a torch if you want tolook around inside. Work led byGerman archaeologist, AndreasSchachner has uncovered five inscrip-tions and three reliefs dating to theAssyrians in 1100–850BC. According tohim, the remains suggest that theseplaces were inhabited since 6000 BC.

Ulu Cami (177)


Remains of stone steps and wallscan be seeing to the south of thecave on the left. As you enterthere are two inscriptionsdating from the reign of theAssyrian King Tiglath-Pileser I (1116–1090 BC). Asthe inscriptions are high upon a northern face of thecave, they haven’t beendefaced. This is also thecave from which the ZebeneStream, one of the maintributaries of Tigris,emerges and is sometimescalled a gate to the nextworld by locals. In order toexplore this cave you will

need to walk through the shallowZebene Stream, which is around

half meter to one meter deep.The water is clear andcool, very tempting for

swimming.

Turning back to yourstarting point, you need to

climb further up to reach thesecond cave, which is 600mlong and has a large entrancewhere birds seem to likesheltering. A partly destroyedinscription from the time ofAssyrian King Shalmaneser III

(859–825BC) can be foundhalfway through the cave.

Birkleyn caves (178)

A de

tail

from

Bir

kley

n ca

ves (1

79)


The third and longest cave is another100m up and reached via a narrowpathway. This cave has a rather smallmouth but opens up further in. It issaid that even after an hour of walking,villagers did not manage to reach theend of the cave, which is one of themost beautiful caves in the region. Itsstalactites and stalagmites are said tohave healing powers for asthma.

Çeper Han› (Xana Kelê)

You can visit what remains of thehilltop Zülkarneyn Kalesi in Çepervillage west of the Diyarbak›r–Bingölhighway, 16km west of Lice. Allsources say this was a Persian settle-

ment, though some sources say it wasnamed after Alexander the Greatstayed there, while others say this wasassociated with Emperor Kurofl in the6th century, who is depicted with twohorns on his head as he united theempires of the Medes and Persiansand is thus called Zülkarneyn (“two-horned”). Some foundations of thewalls can still be seen, as can theremains of three bastions andtwo gates.

Four hundred metres on from the endof the village is a large former SilkRoad caravanserai, Çeper Han (XanaQelê), which remains in good conditionthough some parts of the roof are

Birkleyn caves(180)


damaged. Inside is a large hall withthree rows of columns, each with sixlarge arches made of white stone.Rooms for the tired travellers arelocated on either side of the building.In the leftmost room is the tomb ofrespected Sheikh Tahir-i Keli, which isvisited by many pilgrims; his father isburied nearby in the courtyard.

The Caves of the Ashab-› Keyf

These caves are one of a number ofsites (the others are elsewhere inTurkey and in several neighbouring

countries) said to have been a refugefor the Ashab-› Keyf, a group of sevenbrothers and their dog, who had to fleepersecution because they believed inAllah rather than idols. The caves areon top of the 650m Mount Rakim,close to Duru (Derkqm) village, 15kmfrom the centre. Once you get to theparking area you need to climb upmetal ladders to reach the first cave,where people pray and leave offerings.The second cave, also reached byladder, is where the Ashab-› Keyf arebelieved to have slept.

Çeper Han›(181)

The caves of Ashab› Keyf (183)Hospitality Çeper Han› (182)


Their story is mentioned in one of thesuras of the Koran, namely Al-Kahf(the Cave), though it does not givedates and places nor the number ofpeople involved. One of the mostcommon legends about the groupmentions a brutal pagan rulerDakyanus who had six advisors.Discovering that they believed in onegod, he threatened them withexecution if they would not convert toidolatry. They fled the palace for themountains, en route to which they meta shepherd who took them to the cave.God had them sleep for 300 years inthe cave, by the end of which they werein no danger as the ruler of the timehad adopted the same faith as them.

A religious festival is held at the moun-tain on 28 May every year, when peoplecome from around the province to visitthe caves. There they touch the walls ofthe caves, drink water that drips downfrom the roof and pray. Afterwards theygather in picnic areas to eat homecooked food and perhaps sacrifice ananimal to share the meat out with oth-ers, as hawkers peddle snacks, drinksand ice cream.

Dakyanus

This ancient settlement is on a 1000mhill on Fis Plain near the village of Fis

(Deflta Fîsê), 19km west of Lice town.From the village it may take youaround 20 minutes climbing to get tothe site, and it may be a good idea toarrange guides by contacting thevillage muhtar. It is known that thesettlement was ruled by a powerfultyrant named Dakyanus, although littleis known as to when it was built anddestroyed, and by whom, asexcavations have yet to be undertaken.However, the features of the remains,including columns, encircling walls andsome walls and vaults referred as thepalace of Dakyanus, suggest it may beof Seleucids or Roman construction. Asis often the case, some of the columnshave been incorporated into a mosquein a nearby village.

The caves of Ashab› Keyf (184)

Remains in Dakyanus (185)

Kulp (Pasûr)

Kulp district (population 11,474) is atan altitude of 1132m and around120km northeast of Diyarbak›r. Thearea is traversed by the Kulp Streamand the Sêqas and Sar›m Streams(tributaries of the Batman River), watersources which have not only aidedlocal agriculture but also attracted theattention of various civilisations overthe centuries. Some sources say theold name of the district derives frompasur meaning “fortress encircled byditches”, others claim it comes frombayê sar meaning “cold wind”, and athird group say it comes from pa-sûrfor “the main fortress”. The currentname may derive from that of a localruler called Kulpo.

Kulp is well known locally forproducing a large number of qualifiedteachers and is a relatively populouspart of the province, helped by theopening of the highway between Kulpand Mufl. The inhabitants are amixture of Kurmanji and Zazakispeakers.

Sericulture is one important source ofincome in the district; in fact Kulptown and the village of A¤açl› (Cixsê) to

the west account for most of thecountry’s silk industry. With thesupport of Swiss DevelopmentCooperation, Turkey DevelopmentFoundation (TKV) has made a pilotproject in 1977-1995 on “integratedsericulture development” in Kulp town.The foundation has established seri-culture integrated facilities and carpetworkshops in A¤açl› (C›xsê), Narl›ca(Tiyaxis) villages and central Kulptown. In the last few years with thefinancial support of EU, Kulp KozaYetifltiriciler Birli¤i (Kulp CacoonProducers Unity) and Diyarbak›rCommerce Chamber, the regionreceived a boost in its production.Furthermore the Kulp Koza ve KültürFestivali (Kulp Cocoon and CultureFestival) in June includes not only theusual cultural performances but alsovisits to silk production facilities inA¤açl› and other sights in the district.


Sericulture in Kulp (186)

Sericulture (187)

Diyarbak›r/Kulp 287

The House of Telli A¤a

This house is located on the slopes ofMount Hesandîn in the especiallypretty Karabulak (Nêrçik) village, 10kmeast of Kulp town. To reach the house,once in the village you will need topark your car and walk for around 10minutes east of the village, past treesof pomegranate, walnut, almondand mulberry.

The house was built of white stonefrom the village of Taflköprü some25km away by Telli A¤a and hisbrother Abdül A¤a in 1650. There isbeautiful stonework on the main door.The house has two storeys but hasfallen into disrepair through neglectand the impact of landslides, though itis currently being restored. Thewestern part of the house is stillstanding. From the house you get goodviews of Kulp town and the KulpStream. From a little way below youcan see the Kevirê Nivîsî (literally“written stone”), a big rock bearingcuneiform inscriptions; it’s locatednear the stream and 2km fromKulp Bridge.

A¤açl› (Cixsê)

A¤açl›, 18km west of Kulp town, is thesite of A¤açl› Kalesi (Kela Cixsê), aruined fortress on a hilltop. It is said tohave been built during Byzantine timesand includes the remains of twoancient churches. The Ottomantraveller Evliya Çelebi describes theinhabitants as good ironsmiths whosold handmade swords to caravanspassing through the Kevirê Dîkan areain the west.

GABB Birlik Park (189)

Telli A¤a House (188)


This village is large, well kept andcontains many mulberry trees; indeedit has two silk workshops and mosthousehold engage in sericulture as asideline to earn some extra income.The park and spring-fed fountain atthe end of the village are worth a look;some locals say that once upon a timethe spring was a meeting point forlovers.

Konuklu (Duderya)

Nearly 20km southeast of Kulp isKonuklu village, where you will findKefrum Kalesi (also called Kela Mîraor Kaferê Romê), a cave site that wasfortified under the Byzantines. The sitetakes its name from the fact that non-Muslims (kafir) used to rule the place;one of the rulers was Kulpo, fromwhom the district took its name.

The village is also home to the biggestkülliye (a religious complex next to amosque) in Turkey, built with fundsfrom a retired imam SheikhSiraceddin, plus contributions frompeople all over Turkey. Located at the

highest point of the village, thismassive white building has largenumber of rooms for feqîs (madrasahstudents), halls for prayers, a guest-house and a residence for the sheikhhimself, who receives visitors daily.

Surp Kevork Church (Simetaq)

Once serving the Armenian community,this church is located in the Smetakquarter of Yaylak (Eskar) village, some22km north of Kulp town. The churchconsists of one large room with asmaller one to the side, but is now inruins. Nearby are three cavesinhabited in ancient times.

‹nkaya (Kanikan) Caves

These caves are located in ‹nkayavillage, which is close to the KulpStream 25km south of Kulp town. It issaid that a Persian ruler once livedhere and that the ruins around thecaves are the relics of an ancient city.Remains of water tanks, watchtowersand rooms used by soldiers can beseen, and there are still forty polesstanding which horses were tied up to.There are also two mills in the cavesthat would have been powered bywater.

Taflköprü (Godernê)

Geliye Godernê is the largest valley inMesopotamia and was populated byArmenians for a long time. Here, 27kmsouthwest of Kulp town, you will findthe village of Taflköprü (Godernê),

A local Konuklu (Dûderya) (192)

Locals A¤açl› (Cixsê) (190)

Kefrum Kalesi (191)

Diyarbak›r/Kulp 289

which takes its name from the stonebridge spanning the Sar›m Stream andconnecting Kulp to Silvan. The site wasinhabited by early Christians, andsome ruins of the tomb of a priestcalled Ekso can be seen. A 200m-highgorge here contains caves wheretraces of Stone Age occupation havebeen found. Around 70m before thebridge if you approach from Kulp is alarge stone cave grave located inside apleasant garden.

Beyond the village, you can take a rightdown to the bottom of this amazinglush valley, containing green fields andsmall vegetable plots. The valley is apopular picnic site for locals, and iscertainly great for swimming andfishing.

Andok and Berbihîv

Andok and Berbihîv are two of thehighest and most beautiful mountainsin the district. Heading from Kulptowards Mufl, drive 20km and MountAndok (3074m) will be on your right,Mount Berbihîv (2000m) on your left.Each has the tomb of a sheikh on itssummit: that of one Sheikh Mihemed

on Andok and that of Sheikh MihemedHuseyn on Berbihîv. Inhabitants ofKulp and Mufl make pilgrimages tothese tombs at least once a year,performing the customary slaughteranimals and sharing out the meat withrelatives. The Andok pilgrimage, whichis the more significant and lasts threedays, starts on the 14th of July (asAndok is such a high mountain, peopleprefer to go there in summer). As withother local pilgrimages, people weartheir best clothes, prepare their bestfoods, sing traditional songs and readsections from Quran. The pilgrimagesalso attract hawkers selling a varietyof wares.

Taflköprü (Godernê)(194)

Andok Mountains(193)

Huvde(hê) Adarê/Ser Huvdeh

Huvdê(hê) Adarê is regarded asone of oldest traditional festivalsand is celebrated in a triangulararea formed by Silvan, Kulp andSason. As with most religiouslybased festivals, Ser Huvdeh hasvarious legends associated with it.The festival actually commemoratesMaaz bin Cebel (Muez bin Cebel),the commander of a conqueringMuslim army who died just a fewdays before his wedding. In recog-nition of the Maaz bin Cebel, thecaliph promised his mother thatthey would hold a weddingceremony every year at the timewhen he would have got married.The story has it that the motheralso died shortly after her son waskilled, and she was buried oppositethe tomb of her son.

Today festival participants assemblein late March (though the name of

the festival actually implies a dateof 17 March, as the Kurds used anIslamic calendar -fiemsi- which isnormally 13 days behind theGregorian calendar, this event stillcelebrated according to the oldcalendar) at the site of the twotombs, near the village of Kumgölü(Emerka), about 35km south ofKulp town. Here they perform tra-ditional dances accompanied bypercussion and singing to moanthe young warrior. The men consistmainly of the devout, such as feqîsand imams, and dance in the areanear Maaz Bin Cebel’s tomb, whilethe women dance to either sideand also prepare henna as thoughfor a wedding ceremony. Just as atraditional wedding reaches itsheight at the end of thecelebration, so the last day of thefestival, 30 March, is the mostinteresting. An elderly religious

Women in Ser Huvdeh ceremony (195)

290

man playing percussion circles thetomb, with women behind himholding a tray containing lightedcandles and henna (everyone willrub some henna on their hands)and this continues for hours, afterwhich the henna is distributed forpeople to apply to their hands. (It isbelieved that doing so will bringabout marriage to their belovedsoon, and lifelong happiness.) Thewomen perform religious dances(cezma ketin), sing religious songsand may work them-selves into an ecstatictrance-like state, chanti-ng the name of Allahrepeatedly.

A well-attended, high-spirited fair also takesplace during the festival.Many people attend forthree days, campingalongside the tomb or in

the hills nearby. Food stalls and teashops are set up and vendors alsosell handmade items anything frompercussion instruments totraditional clothes and even thetraditional Kurdish chewing gum ofthe region, said to be good for thestomach. Competitions areorganised involving a game notdissimilar to polo. The winner mayeven find wealthy people at theevent prepared to offer a goodprice for his horse.

Men in Ser Huvdeh ceremony (196)

Ser Huvdeh(197)

291

Hazro (Hezro)


The district of Hazro (population 5,478)is located on the south side of theHacertum Mountains, 70km northeastof Diyarbak›r. Hazro gets its namefrom Hataro Tercil, a fortress builthere by the Assyrians. Under theOttomans it was a sanjak of Diyarbak›rprovince; in the 1940s it came underthe jurisdiction of Silvan district untilbecoming a district of Diyarbak›r in1954. The local economy is based onagriculture and livestock, with somesilk production too. A carpet-weavingprogramme aims to provide job oppor-tunities for young women (althoughlow paid) and to produce high-qualitysilk and wool carpets for sale inDiyarbak›r and further north inErzurum.

Hazro town used to be populated bynot only Kurds but also Armenians,and the Armenian legacy will beapparent if you walk through thecentre, in the style of the masonry andthe building facades. There is even afountain in the centre called the“Armenian fountain”, though it is nolonger functional. The stream thatflows through the centre once dividedthe Armenian and Kurdish parts oftown. Besides Tercil Fortress, thetown has a number of other historicalsites, including the Ulu Cami and theruined Derebeyi Palace, made of whitelimestone, which originaly had 40rooms; this was where Atatürk stayedon a visit to Hazro.

Ulu Cami (Mizgefta Hezro)

This striking mosque of white lime-stone, built in the 16th or 17th century,is located on a hill overlooking thewhole town. The mosque has retainedits character despite several renova-tions. The niches above the entranceand mihrab are nicely decorated withgeometric figures. The stairs on theleft of the entrance lead to a porticoupstairs, which has a door into theDerebeyi palace (199)

Carpet weaving(198)

Diyarbak›r/Hazro 293

women’s prayer area, a two-storeyrectangular structure with lancet-arched stonework on the facades. Theminaret, accessed through a vaulteddoor, is built on a pedestal with nicedecorations and masonry work.

Hac› Abdulfettah Yaz›c› SeydahHac› Tomb

This tomb is located in the Camiquarter in the centre of Hazro district.Its occupant (1892–1975) was ateacher in a madrasah and regardedas an intellectual, and his tomb isvisited by many locals. His tomb hasnot been ornamented though he hadasked for this to be done.

Tercil Kalesi (Kela Tercilê)

Located near Terdöken (Tercil) village10km from the centre, thefortress resembles a church.In the past it contained asettlement under thejurisdication of TercilBeylik.

Below the castle is atwo-room structure whichis now a pilgrimage site.Local people believe thatmentally retarded people can be curedif they are kept here overnight, andthat people who are treated thus willhave specks of blood appear on theirbacks, representing genies which werecausing the disease. There is also afountain here whose water is believedto have a curative effect on epileptics.

Tomb of Sheikh Hasan Ezraki

There are different legends about thisholy place, in Ülgen village (Mêrenî)around 10km east of Hazro town.According to one of the most populartales, Hasan Ezraki emigrated fromDamascus in order to study scienceand divinity in Mardin. His influence inthe region intimidated the local rulerso much so that he decided to put himin an underground dungeon. The guardwas very surprised to see himmaterialise outside the dungeon toperform his ritual ablutions forprayers. He observed that the Sheikhappeared to be escaping and returningon a beam of light, and upon the rulerbeing informed of this miracle, thesheikh was released. The Artukid rulerhad him brought to the palace to curehis mentally retarded daughter, andwhen he achieved this, he was offeredher hand in marriage, but he refused.The girl’s hand was then offered to hisson, with control of three fortresses asa sweetener.

Hal› Atölyesi

This carpet atelier located in Elhuanquarter, north of the town centre, wasoriginally opened in 1988 with support

of governor and the SümerCarpet Company. Three

instructors teach andmanage around 50young women whomake some finecarpets usingoriginal designs and

materials.

Hazro family (200)

Tercil Kalesi (Kela Tercilê) (202)

A view of TercilKalesi (201)

Silvan (Farqîn)


The district of Silvan (population47,105) occupies an undulating areatraversed by the Diyarbak›r–Batmanhighway. Silvan town, some 75km eastof Diyarbak›r, is said to have beenfounded during Assyrian times; in thepast Silvan was identified with theHellenistic city Tigranocerta, but morerecent research makes it more likelythis site should be identified with E¤il.The city was subsequently namedMartyropolis after 40 Byzantine troopskilled by the Sassanids were buried inthe town’s fortress, and renamedJustinianopolis when it was fortified bythe Byzantine Emperor Justinian.Under Islamic control the town hadvarious names, including Meyafarqîn,

Farqîn Silîvan, while the Armenianscalled it Muhargin. The town wasfinally renamed Silvan in therepublican era, though locals still callit Farqîn.

Silvan was the seat of several dynas-ties including the Artukids, duringwhich most of the historical workshave been built. The city was also theseat of the Kurdish Marwanids foraround hundred years , during whichthey reached their apogee in terms ofculture, trade and science. The citywas dominated by Seljuks andArtukids until 1185, after which theAyyubids took over until 1260 when theMongols looted the place and slaugh-tered many people. With the arrival ofthe Mongols, the town fell intoobscurity.

A prosperous and at the same timeconservative place, the town today has

Eyyubid Burcu(204)

Mar

wan

ids

coin

s(205

)

Malabadi Bridge(203)

Diyarbak›r/Silvan 295

Selahaddin Eyyubi Camii (Ulu Cami) (206)

come through a period of troubles inthe 1990s, when it was the scene ofseveral assassinations by the shadowyHezbollah which remain unsolved. TheSilvan Barrage has allowed much ofthe surrounding land to be irrigatedand the district is well known for itsrice and tobacco; brick production,flour milling and cotton processingalso contribute to the local economy.

Selahaddin Eyyubi Camii(Ulu Cami)

Centrally located, this mosque is oneof the largest in the region. Somesources say it was always a mosque,while others say it is a convertedByzantine church, but what is not indoubt is that this is one of the largestmosques in the region. After the citywas taken over by the Ayyubids, themosque was renovated and namedafter Selahaddin (Saladin), and thusbearing both Ayyubid and Artukidinscriptions. In a picture taken by theBritish archaeologist Gertrude Bell in1911, the mosque seems to be partlyruined; it is said to have undergone acomplete renovation by Mardin

artisans in 1913, and portals added tothe north and south at the time havepartly spoiled its character.Nevertheless, with its impressivemasonry work, large dome of nicelydecorated mihrab and woodwork onthe doors, the building sets a standardfor other Anatolian mosques toemulate.

The mosque is built of white stonewhile the dome has been paintedwhite. The octagonal dome is 13.5m

The entrance of Selahaddin Eyyubi Camii (207)

Saladin (Selahedîn Eyûbî)

Saladin was originally born in1138as Yusuf in Tikrit, what is now Iraq;later he became known asSelahaddin meaning “the peace ofreligions”. His family, the Ayyubis,was drawn from the Hezbani Kurdswho settled in a town called Duvinin Azerbaijan. Led by Sazi, Saladin’sgrandfather, the family migrated toTikrit during the reign of the SeljukMuhammad Tapar at the beginningof the 12th century. Thegrandfather became a tutor of theSeljuk provinces and governor ofBaghdad, while his son, NecmeddinAyyubi, became the governor ofTikrit. Saladin’s father had to fleefor Mosul, however, after acciden-tally killing a man serving the SeljukRuler Behruz. Saladin continued hiseducation in Mosul and then inDamascus, where he lived ten yearsat the court of his uncle, Nur adDin, who was a nobleman. Afterfinishing his first military education,he accompanied his uncle on cam-paigns against the Fatimid rulers ofEgypt in the 1160s. Another of his

uncles, Shirkuh (fiîrguh), a lieu-tenant of Nur ad Din, became vizierthere and was succeeded bySaladin upon his death in 1169.After the death of Nur ad Din,Saladin proclaimed himself Sultanof Egypt, thus founding theAyyubid Dynasty. Conquering west-ern and northern shores of Africa,he also took over Mosul, Aleppoand other swathes of territory fromrival Muslim rulers. In 1183, hemounted a major attack onCrusader-held Jerusalem whichfailed. In 1187 he declared jihadand drew on troops from Syria andEgypt to battle the Crusaders,taking not just Jerusalem but alsoother major cities in Palestine.Christian forces, led by KingRichard I of England, defeatedSaladin but were not able torecapture Jerusalem.

Saladin died on 4 March 1193 aftertwelve days of illness and is buriedjust outside the Umayyad Mosquein Damascus.

Selahaddin Eyyubi (Selahedîn Eyûbî) (208)

296


across and covered by a pyramidalroof. The front courtyard of themosque has pleasant green area,popular with old men debating whiledrinking freshly made tea. The frontentrance is packed with street stallesand religios book sellers.

The Broken Minaret

Located on a hill southeast of thecentre, this striking minaret (MinaraQot to locals) of white sand-stone is all that remains of amosque built between 1199and 1210 under the Ayyubids.The minaret is 35m tall,square in cross-section andused to have five storeys,though the top section hasbeen destroyed – hence theminaret’s name. On eachside of minaret are nicelydecorated inscriptions. Onthe entrance door thereis inscription from thetime of Melik EvhadEyyub (1199–1210) onthe first storey, aninscription relating toMelik Eflref Musa(1210–1220) on thesecond, and aninscription of MelikMuzaffer Gazi on

the fourth. The minaret is in thecourtyard of Yat›l› ‹lkö¤retim BölgeOkulu, a boarding school; permissionto visit can be obtained from the headteacher.

Belediye Camii

Near the Ulu Cami is this mosque,originally a church, then converted to acinema for public use before becomingthe Belediye Camii in 1988. One wall tothe right of the entrance survives fromthe old church and it bears somefrescoes.

The City Walls

Silvan’s walls were originallybuilt in 77 BC when it was partof the kingdom of the ArmenianTigranes the Great, and under-went various additions underthe Byzantines (particularlyunder Justinian I),Hamdanids, Ayyubids andMarwanids. Built of locallimestone, the wallsenclosed an area that wasroughly a 600m square andwere 25m high, with 50 bas-tions in all spread 25mapart. Sadly most of thewalls are now destroyedand in some cases peoplehave built their homesover what is left and evenscavenged some of thewalls for the purpose, sodon’t be surprised to seeresidences blending in

Back door of Eyyubi Camii (209)

The broken minaret (Minara Qot)(211)

Belediye Camii (210)


with what remains. There were oncenine gates, some of them still havetheir thresholds and lintels visible withnicely decorated inscriptions. Thegates which still survive in variousstates are Boflat Gate (in the north-east), Afla¤› Mahalle Gate (south) andSüslü Kulfa (Qulfa) Gate (east).

Ayyubid Burcu(Aslanl› Silvan Burcu)

Built by the Ayyubid King Evhad, thissquare-planned bastion on Gazi Cad inthe Mescit quarter bears an image ofthe sun between a lion and a tigerfacing each other.

Kulfa Kap›s› (Deriyê Qulfayê)

Turning into Gazi Cad from thebastion, you will come to Süslü KulfaKap›s› located to the south side of thewalls, a gate built by the Mervanians.Above the gate an Artukid turret canstill be seen, with a partly obliteratedinscription on the upper part.

Zembilfirofl Kalesi

All that remains of Zembilfirofl Kalesiis a tower between the Cami andFeridun quarters. The fortress is

associated with a tragic love story thatlocals like to relate. One day the son ofan emperor was returning from a huntwhen he passed a graveyard andrealised that ultimately rich and pooralike will meet the same fate. Leavingthe palace with his wife, he became anascetic and a simple zembilfirofl,meaning “basket seller”. In Silvan hisgood looks attracted the attention ofthe wife of the local ruler and sheimmediately fell in love with him. Onthe pretext of purchasing a basket, sheinvited him to the palace and offeredherself to him, and when he refused,she followed him and discovered thetent where he lived. Having beenharassed by the ruler’s wife, thebasket seller’s wife fled, whereuponthe ruler’s wife wore her clothes andlay in bed waiting for the basket seller.The young man only realised that itwas not his wife he was with when heheard the sound of the woman’s silverbangle, instead of betraying the rulerand his wife, the basket seller throwshimself down from the castle. Shockedby this event, Hatun too chooses thesame way. Although this story is saidto have taken place in Silvan, it isretold among Kurds all over the regionand many songs and poems have beenwritten about it.

Zembilfirofl Kalesi (212)

Kulfa kap›s› (213)

Zembîlfirofl zembîla tine /

Basketseller brings baskets Kolan bi kolan digerîne /

walks in the streetsGava ew zembîla tine /

when he brings the basketsXatûn li bircê dibîne / Xatûn (TheQueen) sees him from the towerBi eflqa dil dihebîne /

fells in love with him Aqil diçe sewda namîne /

loses her mind and fells in love

She brings over him to go in thecastle with the blind excuse ofbuying baskets and declares herlove with a poem:

Kuro sêlka vir de bîne / Hey! Boy bring the basketsMîr dixwaze te bibîne / myrh wants to see you buha buha ji te bisitîne / he will pay you well for your baskets Lawiko ez evîndar im / Ohh boy I fell in love

But the basketseller is married, loves his wife, he is a dervish and arepentant of any other women so he refuses the love of Xatûn….Xatûna min a delal e / My beautiful lady! Min bîhîstî Mîr ne li mal e / I’ve heard that Myrrh is not at homeBazara’m bi malê helal e / I deal with permissible thingsXatûnê ez tobedar im / My Lady, I’m a repentantTobedarê Zerdefltê Kal im / I’m a repentant of Zerdefltê Kal Ji ser toba xwe qet nayêm xwarê / I won’t recant my repentance…

The basketseller refuses the love of Xatûn but Xatûn is insistent:Çavên min mîna eynan e / I’ve shining eyesBiskê min mîna qeytan e / I’ve string hairsDiranê min mîna mircan in / I’ve coral-like teethEniya min mîna ferflan e / I’ve a wide forehead Berê min mîna fîncan e / I’ve cup-like breastFîncanên mîr û paflan e / the cups of Myrrhs and KingsSîngê min mîna zozan e / I’ve wold-like chestZozanên haft eflîran e / wold of seven tribesZembîlfirofl, lawikê derwêfl / Basketseller! The dervish boyLê bike kêf û seyran e / Come on enjoy them

Old photo, Kurdish woman (214)

Zembîlfirofl / The Basketseller

299


Mansions

Silvan has several old mansions,called either kasri (kas›r) (literally“palace”) or kona¤› (konak) (“man-sion”) by the locals. One of these is the18th-century Üstünler Kasr› (Sad›kBey/Mala Beg Kasr›), with decorativestonework. In Gazi quarter, Surbafl›sokak (also called Serê Surê), it datesfrom the reign of the Ayyubid Ruler Ul-Kamil Muzaffer, though the part of iton the historical walls is an 18th-cen-tury addition. On the west side of thisbuilding there is an inscription datingback to the time of the same Ayyubidruler. The owners, who live in an adja-

cent house, are usually happy to showvisitors around the mansion. Thewooden ceiling of the guest room hasbeen beautifully painted by Kurdishartistans. The house also has arelaxing garden and fountain.

Another Silvan mansion is theDr Azizo¤ullar› Kona¤›, located on ahill overlooking Azizo¤ullar› Cad in theMescit quarter of the city centre.Dating back to 18th century, thistwo-storey house is built of limestone.

Accommodation

Silvan Ö¤retmenevi: Tel (0412 711 5694) in Selahattin Street can be a goodplace to stay. The Belediye Konk(Konuk) Evi (Guest House 0412 711 5081) of the municipality also offerssome comfortable rooms.

Hasuni Caves

These caves, located some 8km east ofSilvan on the left side of main road asyou head out and close to ‹ncesu(Tilmîn) village, are well signposted.You may need to head up for around100 meters from the parking area toget to the caves, which was designated

Remains from Zembilfirofl Kalesi (215)

Üstünler kasr› (216)

Serê Gulanê

The festival of Serê Gulanê (literally“1st of May”, though actually heldon 14th of May) is celebrated indifferent districts of Diyarbak›r asthe wedding ceremony of the lastrains of May or spring. It is markedwith communal picnics andbarbecues especially at Kulp, Liceand Silvan. Popular spots for thefestivities are the villages ofGürp›nar (Bêzwan) 15km fromSilvan towards Batman;Çatakköprü (Mala Badê), 25kmfrom Silvan and the nearby villageof Yeniça¤lar (Quba Zîla); andEskiocak (Kaniya Navîn or Sextê)10km from Silvan and just 1kmfrom Hasuni Caves (see p: 302).People also visit the graves of theirrelatives or the tombs of local

sheikhs. Tours of these tombs andthe caves are organised by theSilvan Municipality and the founda-tion of the citizens from Silvan(Silvanl›lar Derne¤i).

At Gürp›nar, where some of thebiggest celebrations take place,people come together to offerprayers at the tomb of SheikhMihemed Emin, the great-grand-son of Sheikh Ebdilqadirê Geylani(the noted Sufi Sheikh who wasleader of the Qadiri order) andthen go to the picnic area near theBatman Dam Lake nearby. Theafternoon is spent with family andfriends or at gatherings wherepeople indulge in traditional songsand dances.

Serê Gulanê (217)

301


an archaeologically protected areain 1990.

These caves are said to have beeninhabited in the Mesolithic Age andduring the first period of Christianity.There are actually some 300 caves andthe remains of paths, stairs, cisternsand a stone church. At the entrance tothe caves are the ruins of what isbelieved to be a Roman bath. Abovethis is a reservoir connected to the topof the structure with pipes throughwhich melting snow and rain watercould flow.

Boflat Kalesi

Located in Boyunlu (Boflat) village12km north of Silvan, the remains ofthis Roman and Sassanid fortress – afew stone chambers – crown a mas-sive rock. A horse ridden by theSassanid King Ardiflir I and a womanbelieved to be his lover, followed bysome more people and deer have beendepicted on the exterior of thefortress. Inside are caves connected

through secret passageways. To thenorth of the village there are a numberof caves excavated by humans, part ofa settlement most probably datingback to the Sassanids. According tothe locals, there were once bazaars, adungeon and an old monastery here.

Hasuni caves(218)

A view from Hasuni caves (219)


The Malabadi Bridge(Pira Mala Badê)

The Malabadi Bridge is one of thebest-known monuments in this part ofTurkey, and is considered the longesthistorical bridge of Anatolia. Built in1147 by the Artukid Timur Tafl(although some sources claim that’swas built by Marwanids) , it spans theBatman River on theDiyarbak›r–Batman highway, 22kmeast of Silvan, and is 150m long, 7mwide and 19m high; the central arch is

the longest of any stone bridge. It isnot surprising for the Frenchresearcher Albert Gabriel to say, “Itdeserves admiration to build such abridge in a period when modern staticformulas were not yet invented. Thedome of the Hagia Sophia (Aya sofya)in ‹stanbul could easily be placedunderneath the bridge. There is noother bridge in the Balkans, the MiddleEast and Anatolia that is the same ageand that has an arch-width as wide asthis one has.” The Ottoman traveller

Malabadi bridge(220)

King Ardiflir, Boflat Kalesi (221)

Çarflema Refl

According to Islamic belief, theworld was made in seven days anddevilry and damnation was createdon Wednesday (although the festivaloriginates from the Zoroastrianism).The last Wednesday of February andthe first two Wednesdays of Marchare regarded as Çarflema Refl(“black Wednesdays”), at whichtime people believe they must notharm anybody because if they doso, they will not be friends with theperson they have harmed for a year.Some people leave town to avoidtemptation, while people in general

visit the tombs of local sheikhs andpray for forgiveness.

A place that is especially visited atthis time Ziyareta Girkûvî, an oldcemetery on a mountain atDemirkuyu (Dêrika Miqûrê) village,20km from Silvan on the Batmanroad. The childless, those whosechildren have died in infancy, thoselooking for the love of their live andso forth make a pilgrimage to thesite. Afterwards there are picnicsand traditional dances aroundthe site.


Evliya Çelebi described caravanseraisaccommodating travellers under thearch and many small rooms above thearch, and that he saw people chattingor fishing.

Angular breaks in the east and westapproaches allowed the bridge be setat an angle to the river. To either sideof the main arch is a guard room. Onthe facade of the bridge are the depic-tions of human figures and decorativestonework. On the south side of the

large arch is the relief of a sitting man.Just above this, two men, both wearingcusped conical hats, are shown withthe standing man offering somethingto the one sitting. Further down is aframe containing a depiction of a manand sunshine and an animalresembling a lion. Today the bridgetakes pedestrians but not traffic.Unfortunately a hydroelectric plant anda newly built bridge to close thehistorical bridge is a bit of a blot onthe landscape.

Çarflema Refl (222)

Bismil

Diyarbak›r/Bismil 305

Bismil (population 57,359) is thelargest district of Diyarbak›r and situ-ated on a fertile plain through whichthe Tigris flows; unsurprisinglyagriculture dominates the localeconomy with cotton being the maincrop. The town of Bismil is 52km eastof Diyarbak›r and has different storiesassociated with its name, one of whichis that it derives from Bistmal,meaning “20 houses” in Kurdish, areference to a settlement of 20 housesestablished by former slaves whomigrated here from Persian territory2000 years ago. The area became adistrict of Diyarbak›r in 1936.

During the cotton harvest betweenSeptember and December, the munici-

pality organises a Harvest Festival(Hasat Festivali) lasting two or threedays, with folkloric concerts andcompetitions to choose the bestdonkey in town (the district is knownfor its white donkeys) and select thebest cotton, the winner of the lattercontest being awarded a gold medal.

Üçtepe (Kerxê)

The village of Üçtepe, 12km west ofBismil town, is home to one of themost important archaeological sites inDiyarbak›r. During the constant battlesbetween the Assyrians and Hurrians todominate the fertile lands ofMesopotamia, the Assyrian KingBanibal gained the upper hand bybuilding a fortified structure calledTuflha in the area now occupied byÜçtepe. This was said to have been acentre of intelligence for theAssyrians, who also built a bridge overthe Tigris here to connect it toDiyarbak›r, through which caravanspassed. It is said that the remains ofthe bridge are underwater inthe Tigris.

The oldest known lovers (223)

Üçtepe (Kerxê) (224)


During the excavation made atÜçtepe’s tumulus by British travellerTaylor in 1865, two obelisks bearingAssyrian inscriptions were uncovered.The inscription on the obelisk dis-played in British Museum says this ofthe Assyrian King Shalmaneser III:“I destroyed the beautiful plantation,wonderful vineyards, burnt anddestroyed the forests and stepped onthe magnificent palaces with the feetof our horses”. After these items weredisplayed in the British Museum, thetumulus attracted the attention ofmany leading archaeologists whodiscovered some remains of Tuflha in1989, several gold and bronzesculptures, coins, glass items andother artefacts, which are now ondisplay in Diyarbak›r Museum.

Körtiktepe Tumulus(Girê Kortikê)

This mound is in the village of A¤›l(Encolîn) on the way to Batman at adistance of 30km to Bismil. The UpperTigris Valley which is actually anextension of Mesopotamia to theAnatolian Peninsula has establisheditself as an item in scientific researchagenda with excavations carried out insuch mounds as Körtik Tepe, HallanÇemi and Demirköy, which gainedfurther importance upon impendinginundation as a result of various damconstructions. Still, it is already proven

that with its archaeological heritageand cultural assets, the region isactually older and richer than whatwas assumed previously. Körtik Tepe,for instance, stands out as a uniquelocation where past cultural develop-ments can be grasped well in terms ofthe modes of responding to vitalneeds, dwellings, burials, productionof instruments, development ofreligious beliefs as well as imagesdepicting these beliefs.

Ziyaret Tepe Tumulus(Girê Behramkê)

This tumulus with scantremains is in Ziyaret Tepevillage 11km from Bismil and1km east of Tepe (Behramkê).The relics of an ancientAssyrian city, belonging to thelate Iron Age (900–600 BC)was uncovered here. It isbelieved to have been animportant urban centre on thenorthern edge of the AssyrianEmpire, and cuneiform textssuggest it might have beenTushan, the provincial capitalof Assyrians. Excavations

Archeological excarvation, Bismil (225)

Körtiktepe tumulus (Girê Kortikê) (226)

Ziyaret Tepe tumulus (Girê Behramkê) (227)

Diyarbak›r/Bismil 307

support the idea that Tushan was aban-doned after the collapse of Assyrianheartland of Nineveh, sacked by theMedes and Babylonians in 612 BC.

Hakemi Use Tumulus(Hakemê Ûsê)

Hakemi Use is located 10km east ofthe district, on the left of the road asyou head from Bismil to Tepe village.

Relics uncovered at this tumulusinclude 5cm-sized sculpturesand thirty fireplaces resembling tenur

(earthen ovens). Archaeologists dis-covered a grave in which the skeletonsof a man and woman were found asthough hugging each other; they havebeen described as the oldest knownlovers in the world. The Third Periodidentified at Hakemi Use denotes aspecific period in Mesopotamianchronology during which ceramicworks appeared and the tradition ofproducing painted jugs emerged. Theperiod also stands for early farmingand animal breeding rural communi-ties. Until recently, the scientificcommunity was rather suspiciousabout the early existence of thisculture within the boundaries ofpresent Turkey, assuming that it wasconfined to central Iraq and northernSyria. Excavations in Hakemi Use aretherefore important in invalidating thisassumption and demonstrating thatthe Upper Tigris Valley was animportant part of this culture. Thisculture also referred to as“Hassuna/Samara Culture” is acontributing origin to the subsequentemergence and development of thegreat Sumerian civilization.

Hakemi Use tumulus (Hakemê Ûsê)(228)

Hakemi Use tumulus (Hakemê Ûsê) (229)


Finds obtained during Hakemi Useexcavations include, beyond ceramicobjects belonging to theHassuna/Samara period, bone piercingdevices denoting the practice oftanning; stone and earth balances forlooms signifying the practice ofweaving; bulla evidencing distanttrading; and flint stone and obsidiantools suggesting farming practices.Finds also include female figurinesfrom Iraq and Iran made of clay.Excavations at Hakemi Use alsounearthed a rich array of smallartefacts supplying Diyarbak›r

Museum with significant objectsremaining from this specific period.

Yedi K›zlar

There are three Turcoman villages inBismil, namely Türkmenhac›, SeyitHasan (Bakarak) and Ulutürk.Unusually for Diyarbak›r, theinhabitants are not only Turcoman butalso Alevis, who migrated from Mosul,Kerkuk and Urfa some 100 years ago.In the centre of Türkmenhac› village isa pilgrimage site called Yedi K›zlar(“Seven Girls”), comprising a numberof rocks.

Sersal

Sersal, meaning “start of the year”in Kurdish, is commonly celebratedon 14th of January (as the Kurdsused to use Islamic calendar-fiemsi-which is normally 13 days behindthe Gregorian calendar, the sersalstill celebrated according to the oldcalendar), particular in villages inthe districts of Bismil, Ç›nar andSilvan. Just before sunset on thisday, village youth come togetherand dress up two boys, one as anold man with a beard of wool anda stick, and the other as his wife.With crowds behind them, theyvisit houses in the village andcollect money, food, biscuits andsoft drinks; it’s customary forhouseholds to offer themsomething, though they must earnthese gifts by being polite andtelling stories or singing songs.

For a family that doesn’t havechildren they say:Serê salê binê salêXwedê kurekî bide vê malê (The end of a year, the begin-ning of a yearGod! Give a boy/baby to thishouse)

And For a family who single sons,they say: Serê salê binê salêXwedê bûkekê bide vê malê(The end of a year, the beginning of a yearGod! Give a bride to this house

At the end of the night, the youthscome together to cook and eat thefood they have been given andenjoy themselves till the early hoursof the morning. The two lads whodid the collecting will jokingly utterprayers for the rest, saying:Xwedêyo pezê me mê bîneGod! give female births to ouranimals[so they can become pregnantand we would have lots ofanimals]Xwedêyo bûkên me nêr bînin God! give male births to ourbrides [so there would be lots of menand we would be strong...

Sersal (230)

Ç›nar (Melkis)

Summer palace of Güzelfleyh(231)

Diyarbak›r/Ç›nar 309

Situated on a fertile plain, Ç›nar (popu-lation 12,725) is 35km south ofDiyarbak›r on the main road to Mardin.The area has been settled as far backas 3000 BC, as the Hurrian settle-ments of Hur-Hurik (S›r›mkesen) andBesta Hurriyan in Beneklitafl village,west of Ç›nar town, show. Ç›nar wasonce administratively part ofDiyarbak›r with the name of Akp›nar-Hanakp›nar until becoming a district in1937. With the migration of newsettlers from Bulgaria and Jerusalemfrom 1939 to 1950 the town rapidlyexpanded into the blend of differentlanguages and cultures. The newquarter is comprised of Turcomansand a small minority of Arabs, thoughthe majority is Kurds. The motifswoven on kilims reflect the feelingsand cultural heritage of the people.Popular dances have names likeesmer, delilo, tik, lorke and gorani,and are performed by men andwomen together.

The Göksu Irrigation Dam hereenables the production of vegetablesfor self-consumption, and other crops

such as wheat, cotton and rice, sold inDiyarbak›r city. The villages close toKaracada¤ Mountain rear livestock,while some families also earn a livingthrough the fishing in the dam lake.

Pornak Tumulus

In the Murattafl› (Pornak) quarter ofBeflp›nar village, 7km north of Ç›nartown is this large, unexcavatedtumulus. Some bowls and items ofearthenware were uncoveredaccidentally while villagers wereloading their trucks with soil from thearea, which is a protectedarchaeological site.

Inside palace of Güzelfleyh(232)


Summer Palace of Güzelfleyh

Around 7km northeast of Ç›nar town,near the village of Alt›nakar (Altuxerê)are the remains of a beautiful stone-made palace built by a local notablecalled Sheikh Kas›m. Most of thepalace is intact, including the mainhall and upper floor. The stone workand design are similar to buildings inthe Mardin area.

Textê Silêman A¤a and Çemê Refl

Some 15km south of Ç›nar towntowards Mardin is Demirölçek(Zelzevan) village. A narrow turning onthe right here and a ten-minute drivewill take you to Textê Silêman A¤a, aseries of rock chambers in the moun-tainside dating back 2000 years. Anotable called Süleyman A¤a, residinghere, gave his name to the area, whichis by the Göksu Stream in a localitycalled Karaçay. Down below the cavesis a picnicking and swimming spotknown as Çemê Refl (“Black River”),popular with locals.

Zerzevan Kalesi

Around 1km pastDemirölçek arethe remains ofZerzevan fortress,built by the

Romans on the highest hill in thevicinity which might take you 15minutes to climb up. The remains ofsome walls and some wells can beseen, though once there were highwalls surrounding the fortress, and anunderground tunnel down to the creekas at many other fortresses. Thestones which remain are quitemassive, at 2m long and 0.5m thick,and some have been appropriated bylocals for building though the area hasprotected status.

Aktepe (Axtobê)

Around 18km east of Ç›naris Aktepe village, in the

centre of which is abeautiful 500-year-oldstone minaret whosetop section has disap-peared. It has been

Textê Silêman A¤a Caves(233)

Zerzevan Kalesi (235)

Çemê Refl (234)

Diyarbak›r/Ç›nar 311

declared as protected, as has thenearby Aktepe Tumulus, which is notunlike mounds in other villages in thearea.

Aktepe is the centre of a pilgrimagethat happens on 19th of May, attractingthousands to the white tomb of SheikhEvdirehmanê Axtepî. People come tooffer prayers: the unmarried ask forhis help in finding them a partner, theill for a cure for their illnesses, thechildless for babies. Once theirprayers are done, people like to havepicnics around his tomb.

Sheikh Evdirehmanê Axtepî

EvdirehmanêAxtepî was bornin Aktepe in1854, the eldestson of SheikhHesenê Nûranîfrom Hakkariprovince. Havingcompleted hisprimary educa-

tion in Aktepe’s madrasah, he wenton to study in Iraqi and Syrianmadrasah and in several other insti-tutions in Middle Eastern countriesbefore returning to Aktepe. Therehe took over the madrasah uponthe death of his father. He wroteand translated many books andarticles on subjects such as health,astronomy and Arabic grammar,some of his work being in Arabicthough two are in Kurmanji. Hisepic poem Rewdetineim, about the

life of the Prophet Muhammad, isconsidered an important work inKurdish literature, comprising 4531staves. While he used Rûhî orfiemsedîn as a nickname in hispoems, in his writings he generallymentioned the problems of desti-tute, disabled, inoffensive peopleand challenged the atrocious, richpeople and the administrations. Hedied in Diyarbak›r in 1910.

Aktepe (Axtobê) (236)

Aktepe (Axtobê), minaret (237)

Relig

ious

sin

ging

(239

)

Sheikh EvdirehmanêAxtepî (238)

Rice in Karacada¤(240)

Hasankeyf (1)


A village in Batman (2)

Batman province is an importantoil-producing area today, thehome to Turkey’s one of theoldest and largest oil refinery,established in 1955. A 500-kilometre pipeline transportscrude oil from Batman to‹skenderun. The province has ahistory similar to that of neighbour-ing provinces: artefacts have beenfound here dating back to 12000 BC,and has seen the usual series ofempires and peoples come and go,including the Hurrians, Mitannis,Urartians, Persians, Romans andByzantines. After Muslim conquestthere were likewise severalempires in charge at var-ious times, includingthe Abbasids,Ayyubids, Marwanids,Seljukides andArtuqid.

Some of the towns andvillages of Batmanprovince is a home to smallgroups of Kurdish Yezidis,Syriac and remaining of very small

Armenians. Yezidis havetraditionally dwelt in the

province, but theirnumbers have been greatlyreduced due to immigra-tion to Europe, mostly to

Germany. At this time, nomore than a handful of

villages are inhabited by a smallnumber of Yezidi families, most ofwhom are elderly and supported by

their relatives in Europe.


472,487 (2007)

Average altitude


DistrictsBatman, Befliri, Gercüfl, Hasankeyf,

Kozluk, Sason

EconomyOil production, Agriculture,

Livestock farming, Tourism


Diyarbak›r (west), Mufl (north),

Bitlis and Siirt (east), Mardin (south)

At aglance

Perde pilav (3)

Batman 317

One good example of Batman cuisineis perde pilav (“curtain rice”). This wasoriginally from Siirt province, but sincesome districts of Batman were oncepart of Siirt, it is no surprise that perdepilaf is also common in Batmannowadays. The dish is a special mealprepared with chicken and ricewrapped in a thin layer of crisp dough,which when cut spills forth a tempting,delicately spiced combination of meat,rice and raisins. Perde pilaf is some-times served at weddings, andsignifies that the new bride shouldkeep the secrets of her home hidden,just as the thin sheet of doughenvelopes the rice. The rice itself sym-bolises fertility, while almonds in thedish signify that the couple very muchlongs for a baby girl, whereasincluding pigeon (or, these days,chicken) means that a baby boy ishoped for. In the villages nearHasankeyf (like else where in theregion), you can try the nan (bread)cooked in the ovens called tenur (tenûrin Kurdish).

The highlight of Batman is unquestion-ably the small town of Hasankeyf,

attractively sited by the Tigris Riverand surrounded by a strange topogra-phy of cliffs, some of which arepockmarked by old cave dwellings. Thereal reason to come to Hasankeyf,though, is to admire the architectureof the town’s old mosques, and toexplore the clifftop fortress, withmagnificent overviews of the river andthe plains on the opposite. It is saidthat the town may be inundated by thebuilding of the Il›su Dam, so visit whileyou can. Elsewhere in Batman,consider trips to the Syrian ChristianMonastery of Mor Kiryakos, thefortress of Hazzo Kalesi in Kozluk. TheKarakas, Raman, Mereto and Ayd›nl›kMountains and the Garzan Valley aresuitable places for excursions. TheSason Creek is well known for raftingpossibilities, while the Batman, Tigrisand Garzan Rivers are excellent forfishing. Although part of Diyarbak›r,the famous Malabadi Bridge, is shortdrive from Batman city.

Cooking bread in Tand›r (oven) (4)

Malabadi Bridge (5)


Good young lamb is popular inBatman and you can enjoyexcellent içli köfte and othermeat specialities such as perdepilav› and fresh local fish inrestaurants such as Bahçevan,on Diyarbak›r Cad, opposite theEmniyet Müdürlü¤ü, nearSevilmez Petrol (0488 212 3697) or Çömçe, on Diyarbak›rCad (0488 213 17 76).

Besides bus anddolmufl connec-tions, Batman has adomestic airportwith flights from‹stanbul andAnkara. The rail lineat the city andnearby Kurtalantown connects thecity with ‹stanbul.

Batman has severaldecent places to stay,the two four-star hotelsof Batman are Asko atTurgut Özal Bulvar›,(0488 214 92 34), andBozoo¤ullar›,Bozoo¤ullar› near AkpetTesisleri, (0488 215 0444, www.hotelbo-zoogullari.com ).

Batman CityBatman (population 293,024) lies onthe Batman River. The city is hilly tothe north, east and south, while themodern part of the town, in the west,features the tall apartment blocks asdo most cities in the region.

With summer temperatures in theregion easily hitting 40°C, people haveto find ways of coping with the heatnow that they mostly live in concretehomes rather than in the old, cooleradobe houses. So people take theirtakht (literally “throne”, in Kurdish‘’text’’ but actually a large bedsteadmade of metal or wood) up to therooftops and sleep there duringsummer, as in many other towns inthe region.

Batman has become a prosperous,dynamic city after the discovery of oilin the region in 1938. Today the cityhas some smart, well-tended streetsand modern malls, and is growingquickly due to the presence of Turkey’slargest oil refinery. Despite the wealthgenerated by the oil industry, Batmansuffers from unemployment and thepresence of oil refining has createdsome pollution locally.

It is worth getting to Sanat Soka¤› (ArtStreet), a nice location with designershops and smart tea shops where youcan not just relax over the locally freshmade tea but also puff on a nargila.

Among other activities, Batman hostsa colourful culture and arts pro-gramme, the Batman and HasankeyfCulture and Art Festival. It isorganised by the municipality andnumber of NGO’s, with arts exhibi-tions, live concerts and street-artprojects (Batman-Hasankeyf Sanat veKültür Festivali; see p: 344).



Batman art street (6)

Batman refinery (7)

Batman 319

Batman has produced sometalented figures in the arts,including the internationallyknown Kurdish artist FikretAtay, who makes short artdocumentaries capturingglimpses of life in Batman. Hefilms young local residents asthey perform Kurdish dancesand enact traditional scenes ofcombat. Also well known isFevzi Bilge, who portraysKurdish women in his paintingwork. He says he wants to rep-

resent them in a positiveway because he feels thatthey are always depicted asoppressed; he also thinksthat his art can help combatthe problem of the highsuicide rate among womenin Batman. Selim Temo isanother famous person,born in Batman. He hassome poetry writings and

prepared a Kurdish poetryanthology also collection oftranslation work from Kurdishto Turkish. Another well-knownfigure is Ahmet Günefltekin,who now lives in ‹stanbul.Inspired by the mythology andromantic legends ofMesopotamia, he has made aseries of TV documentariesabout art in the southeast ofTurkey. (For other famouspeople see, Kozluk and Gercüflp: 329/349)

Some prominent people from Batman

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Batman Hasankeyf art and culture festival (8)


Befliri (Qubîn)

Befliri (population 8,573) is just 16kmnortheast from the centre of Batman.Once a village of Diyarbak›r province, itsubsequently became a district of Siirtand finally of Batman in 1990.

Befliri once had large Kurdish Yezidipopulation, in villages like Kurukavak(Hamdûna) and U¤rak (Texeriyê), just acouple of Yezidi families remain. Butelsewhere, in Yolveren (Çinêra), O¤uz(fiimzê) and Üçkuyular (Faqîra), somefamilies have returned from abroad tosettle. These families, with supportfrom the diaspora in Europe, haveconstructed a social and traditionalcondolence house in the village of

Üçkuyular. It is used as a communityplace by the villagers as well as theneighbouring villages for weddings,funerals and other occasions, as wellas prayer. Besides having cultural sig-nificance, the house is convenient forstaying over and is fully furnished;indeed the diaspora Yezidis who fundedthe house usually stay there in thesummer. It is hoped that the existenceof the house, which has four rooms, akitchen and prayer room, will helppreserve Yezidi culture and traditions inthe area.

There is only one street going throughBefliri’s town centre, with two smallrestaurants boasting nice gardens.While heading east to the Mor KiryakosMonastery, the most significant point ofinterest, you will pass through severalvillages of Armenian origin, their ruins,in particular the churches, hauntingreminders of their earlier inhabitants.

Mor Kiryakos Monastery

Located in Ayranc› village (Dêra Qîrê),18km away from Befliri, this SyrianChristian monastery can be reachedYezidi mourning place (11)

A detail from Mor Kiryakos monastery main entrance (10)

Batman/Befliri 321

easily by dolmufl. The building wasprobably constructed to be a church asit consists of a courtyard and a longnave closed by an apse, typical ofchurches in the region. St Cyriacus, towhom the building was dedicated, diedin the first half of the fourth century,and it is likely that the church datesfrom the same century. An importantreligious centre for Syrian Christians, itwas reconstructed many times until theend of the 16th century, though it hasbeen suggested that the floor could bethe result of subsequent work byHasankeyf craftsmen.

Most of the monasteries in northernMesopotamia were built on the top of

hills, and likewise Mor Kiryakos wasbuilt in the eastern part of the KiraMountains. Most of these magnificentmonasteries and churches are now in astate of ill repair, for they have not beenproperly cared for in recent times. MorKiryakos was a working monastery untilthe 1940s, and after its closure valuableitems such as the 100kg monastery belland handwritten books and Bibles werehanded over to the Mor GabrielMonastery in Midyat for safekeeping.

With an area of 2500 square metres,the monastery has an interior courtyardgarden surrounded by rooms. At themain entrance are two stone tabletswritten in Syriac and containing Biblical

Mor Kiryakos Monastery(12)

A detail from Mor Kiryakos Monastery (13)


quotations, though they give no date forthe monastery’s construction.

Zercil Churchand Seyh Halid Tomb

From Ayranc› village, you can easilyreach the village of Danal› (Zercîl),which has a Syriac church, thoughunsurprisingly it is in a state of poorrepair. Near that village in A¤alc›k (KâniRewa) is a mausoleum visited by manyMuslims, containing the tombs of SeyhHalid (d.1954) and his relatives.

Yezidi villagesand Christian churches

Not far from the Mor KiryakosMonastery is O¤uz (fiimzê), one of the78 Yezidis villages that once existed inthis area. You can see the remains ofthe Deyr-u Semze (Simizi) Church in agarden belonging to one of the familiesthat lives in the village.

From here you can get local transportto the village of Yenip›nar (KevirsoraXwarê), where the remains of a churchcan be seen; the village was host tosome 15 Armenian families in the past.

Memikan Bridge (Pira Memikan)

This ancient bridge is about 30km fromBefliri, and the drive takes in a numberof villages such as Yazihan (Mezrikê)before you get to the small village ofGedikli (Memikan). The bridge had fourspans, three of which remain intact.The exact date of the bridge’s construc-tion is unknown, but given the charac-teristics of the stone used, which issimilar to the material used for the

Locals (14)

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Batman/Befliri 323

bridges in Hasankeyf, Malabadi andCizre in fi›rnak province it might havebeen built soon after the Muslimconquest of the region in the sixthcentury. It is also possible that it couldhave been built on the skeleton of anearlier bridge.

On the Silk Road, the Memikan Bridgeis strategically sited, spanning theGarzan River, and served for manyyears as a link between Hasankeyf andnearby settlements. Until the Middle

Ages, the bridge provided a connectionto northern Mesopotamia, throughHasankeyf, especially for trade.

What makes this particular bridgeespecially interesting is the way it wasconstructed. The bridge has been builtlike a tunnel and has two walkways andtwo lanes for traffic. For about 50m oneither side of the bridge there arewalls to protect the bridge from theforce of the water when levelsare high.

Befliri plateaus (16)

Memikan Bridge (17)

Around 2% of Kurds are Yezidis,members of a community with aunique religious tradition. They areheirs to a variety of cultural practicesand religious beliefs, includingZoroastrianism (the religion basedon the teachings of the old Iranianprophet Zoroaster) and Mithraism(the cult of Mithra, the ancientPersian god of the sun and justice,amongst other things), whichbecame mixed with Sufi teaching.They are also known as devil-wor-shippers, because of their love ofthe Peacock Angel (see below).

Today, almost all the Yezidi clergy,together with the great majority ofthe Yezidi population, are still foundin the region in which they originat-ed – Iraqi Kurdistan. It is here thatthe Yezidis knew how best tosafeguard their customs andtraditions. Some communities arealso found scattered in northernSyria, southeastern Turkey, Armeniaand Georgia. The number of Yezidisis uncertain, but Yezidi sourcesclaim around a figure of around600,000 adherents.

Some scholars have suggested thatthe Yezidis derive their name fromthe Zoroastrian city of Yazd in Iran,where fire is still worshipped.Yezidis call themselves as Ezid, Ezi orIzid, names which may derive fromYazad, Yazd or Yazdan in MiddlePersian and Kurdish, meaning“God”. A popular idea amongYezidis themselves is that Yazdanderives from ez da, meaning “I cre-ated” in Kurdish.

History

The Yezidis were mentioned for thefirst time in a historical source in theKitab al-Ansab written by Abd al-Kar_m al-Sam‘ani (d.1167). OtherArabic sources from the 13th and14th centuries talk about Sheikh‘Adi and his Sufi order, theAdawiyya, as well as his early suc-cessors, who played a crucial role informing the doctrines of Yezidism.Sheikh ‘Adi was an Arab fromBaghdad who ensconced himselfwith his disciples in Lalish (nearMosul in northern Iraq), which laterbecame the centre of the Yezidi

THE YEZIDIS

Yezidis paying recpect to their Sheikh (18)

faith. Here he spread his own ortho-dox Islamic teachings, but after hisdeath in 1162, his successorschanged the direction of the sect,absorbing the influence of ancientIranian beliefs and thus movingtowards syncretism.

Between the 13th and 15th cen-turies, Yezidism expandedconsiderably in the Kurdish tribalmilieux, most likely as a result of awave of conversions which affectedlarge sections of Kurdish society.The 14th century was the goldenage of Yezidism: at this time manyof the most powerful Kurdish tribeswere Yezidi, and Yezidism actuallybecame the official religion of theprincipality of Jazira (now Cizre infiirnak province). The influence ofYezidism reached as far east asSuleimaniyyeh in Iraq, as far west asAntioch in Syria and as far north asVan in eastern Turkey and Khoy inIran. This quick expansion meantthat Yezidism became to be seen asa threat by Muslims; hence, fromthe beginning of the 15th century,Yezidis were subject to oppressionand in some cases were massacred.From this time onwards the Yezidissurvived as small tribal groups and

as local communities who madestrategic alliances with their neigh-bours. Some Yezidi tribes allied withthe Black Sheep Turcomans(1375–1468), others with the WhiteSheep Turcomans (1378–1508)against Tamerlane, as did manyother Kurdish emirs at this time.

In the 16th century the rise of theSafavid and Ottoman dynasties inPersia and Anatolia, in areas ofYezidi settlement, resulted in adramatic decline in the popularityof Yezidism among the Kurdishtribes. Many Kurdish tribal groupsconverted to Sunni and Shia Islam.

Complex social and politicalchanges in the 19th century led tothe Yezidis becoming the targetsof militant Sunnism and sufferingat the hands of Ottomangovernors or Muslim Kurdish triballeaders. During the chaos of 1895and 1915, the Yezidis had to leavetheir homelands, such as Kars,I¤d›r, Do¤ubeyazit, A¤r›, Van, Bitlisand Antep en masse, and theymigrated to the Armenian Republicwith the Armenians. Those whoremained in the Jazira and TurAbdin (Midyat) regions left Turkeylittle by little from the middle ofthe 20th century for Europeancountries, particularly Germany.This massive outflow was causeddirectly or indirectly by a numberof political and religious difficul-ties, in addition to economicfactors. In the 1980s, there were60,000 Yezidis population in Befliri,Kurtalan, Bismil, Midyat, ‹dil, Cizre,Nusaybin, Viranflehir, Suruç andBozova, whereas there are hardlyany today, though some Yezidis doreturn from Germany in summer tostay in their villages of origin.

Beliefs and Traditions

The Yezidis’ cultural traditions areobservably Kurdish, and almostall of them speak Kurmanji withthe exception of some inhabitants

A Yezidi woman from Batman (19)

325

of Behzani and Bashiqa in IraqiKurdistan who speak Arabic, bututilise Kurdish as the language ofprayer.

The Yezidis believe in one eternalGod, named Xwedê, and in divineand semi-divine creatures that areintermediaries between humansand God. They believe thatGod manifests himself inthree different forms: inthe shape of a bird,Tawûsê Melek (thePeacock Angel); as anold man, Sheikh ‘Adi;and in the form of ayoung man, one SultanÊzî. God has a transcendentalcharacter and is manifestedonly through the activities ofthis trinity. The Yezidis’ God isinterested only in heavenly affairs; hedelegated his power to seven angelsand appointed Tawûsê Melekresponsible for worldly affairs andhuman fortune. The Peacock Angelis a mediator and at the same timeGod’s alter ego; the Yezidi faithfulpray in front of a figure of a pea-cock during rituals and ceremonies.

The Peacock Angel is also identifiedwith Satan, whom the Yezidisbelieve was an exemplary angelbecause his love for God made himrefuse to submit to Adam whenasked to do so by God himself.

Formalised prayer is largely a matterof personal preference

rather than obligatory.Yezidis are allowed

to pray privatelyand individually (asopposed to beingencouraged to doso communally as

Muslims do), any-where (there are no

special places of wor-ship) and in any mannerthey wish. Thus there is nostandard daily prayer,

though it is common for Yezidis topray thrice daily, turning towardsthe sun when they do. In addition,Yezidis fast three days a year inDecember, but again this is notobligatory.

Every Yezidi must observe variousrituals and ceremonies, representingnew phases in life, in order to be

Yezidis new year, group cleaning (20)

Symbol ofYezidis-Melek

Tawûs (21)

accepted into the community. Themost important of these are biskapora (the rite marking the first hair-cut of a boy, which used to takeplace at the age of forty daysthough nowadays it can happenwhen a baby is six months or a yearold), mor kirin (baptism), sinet (cir-cumcision, twenty days after morkirin) and dawet (wedding).

Modern Yezidi society has threemajor castes: Sheikhs, Pîrs andMurids, the last of which makes upthe majority of the Yezidi popula-tion. Members of the Sheikh caste,who are thought to descend fromSheikh ‘Adi, include the Mîr, who isthe social and religious leader ofthe community; the Baba Sheikh,also a religious leader; and the PeflImam, responsible for arrangingmarriages and dowries. The Pîrs,who are believed to have existedprior to the time of Sheikh ‘Adi,carry out the same duties andresponsibilities as the Sheikhs. EveryYezidi has to have two birayêaxretê, “brothers of the hereafter”,one drawn from a Sheikh familyand another from a Pîr family.These people are meant to be likeguardian angels who protect andassist their charge during the majorrituals described above.Membership of a caste is inheritedfrom one’s parents and cannot bechanged, and people are allowed tomarry only within their caste.

Yezidis have various restrictive andritualized taboos which areobserved as being markers ofidentity rather than as sacredbeliefs. These include marryingoutside the faith, disrespectfulnessto men of religion and wearing blueclothing. There are also certaindietary prohibitions, including banson eating pork, fish, gazelle, let-tuce, okra and pumpkin.

The Yezidis gather together in theValley of Lalish to perform cere-

monies four times a year.Moreover, some local ceremoniesare carried out in Sinjar (northwest-ern Iraq); Bashiqa; the Kurd Dagh inAleppo, Syria; the Tur Abdin andAragatsotn (Armenia) regions. TheYezidi faithful are not called uponto fulfil any strict obligations duringthese obligations, though it is oftenthe case that animals are sacrificedto honour their saints and martyrs,donations are made to the men ofreligion, meals are distributed tothe pilgrims, and religious dances(sama) are performed.

The absence of specified communalplaces of worship probablycompelled the Yezidis to build otherkinds of buildings, such asmausolea and shrines, dedicated totheir saints, who are the earlydisciples of Sheikh ‘Adi or hisdescendants. Mausolea constitutethe greatest proportion of Yezidimonuments, serving as placeswhere the faithful, individually or ina group, come to perform theirdevotions and pious duties; they arealso centres of pilgrimage, wherethe faithful expect their prayers tobe answered. Sometimes, a stoneor a spring next to a plant or ahouse belonging to a religious mancan fulfil these functions. Thesanctuary of Sheikh ‘Adi at Lalish isespecially important, symbolisingthe unity of the Yezidi faith andacting as the main pilgrimagecentre of the religion.

New year (22)

327

Kozluk (Hezo/Hazzo)


Located on the southern side of theMufl Mountains, Kozluk (population21,651) is 65km northeast of Batman.One of the first sources of crude oil inTurkey was discovered in a villagehere, called Ulafll› (fielmo). Until 1990,Kozluk was a district of Siirt and onlybecame a district of Batman afterBatman was declared as a province.

Kozluk is situated between pleasantgreen valleys. The more modern sec-tion rests in the valley bottom, wheremost government offices and manynewly built apartments lie. The townnumbers an old fortress and some oldmosques as sights and elsewhere inthe district are more ruined fortresses.There is also an interesting old bridgein the village of Kaletepe (Dehlik).

Local farmers grow wheat, barley,grapes, tobacco, onion, pomegranateand almond. In summer, as transhu-mance herders, they move to highplateaus in the mountains along withtheir livestock. Given that most of theland here is mountainous, agriculturetakes place close to the streams andwatercourses, because of problemswith irrigation.

Some of the goat hair used for theproduction of blankets for which Siirtis well known comes from Kozluk. Theblankets are not dyed, taking theircolour from that of the mohair wool.One advantage of mohair is that,unlike most wool, the fibres have aperfectly smooth shaft to which soildoes not readily adhere. Cheese, but-ter and the other livestock products ofKozluk area are well regarded due tofavourable conditions for the animalsin the high plateaus.

Hazzo Kalesi

Driving towards the town from Batmancity, you will immediately see HazzoKalesi, from where there are great

Children from Kozluk (23)

Old women (24)

Batman/Kozluk 329

views of the old and new towns, thoughmuch of it is ruins. According to theOttoman traveller Evliya Çelebi(1611–1682), the fortress was capturedby Timur’s (Tamerlane’s) forces fromthe ruler of Diyarbak›r, Akkoyunlu UzunHasan, and destroyed. It was given tofierefxan ruler of Bitlis, after Çald›ransurge of Yavuz Sultan Selim. Thefortress is in the Kale quarter andrequires a climb of about ten minutes.A far amount of the eastern walls andone of the towers are still standing.

H›d›r Bey Mosque

Walking downhill from the fortressthrough the narrow local streets youwill come across on your right a his-

torical mosque, that of H›d›r Bey (XidirBeg), at the end of H›d›r Bey Cad.Though the minaret has beendestroyed, the base of it can be seen.According to a partly erased tablet onthe front wall, the mosque wasconstructed at the behest of H›d›r Bey,son of the ruler of Hazzo and Sason,Ebubekir Ruflti in 1485. At the mainentrance can also be seen writing inFarsi; note also the Islamic decorationto the left of the door. Some mulberrytrees grow in the small courtyard.

A well-known writer from here isMahmut Baksi (1944–2000), born inÖrensu (Suphiyê), a small village. Hisfirst novel, Mezra Botan, was publishedin ‹stanbul in 1969, and was followedby “Murdered Turkish Communist” thefollowing year. At the same time, hewas sentenced to 15 years in prison andhad to seek asylum in Germany. In1971 he moved to Sweden and settledthere permanently. He continued towrite in exile, publishing 22 books overhis entire career until his death inDecember 2000, after which he wasburied in Diyarbak›r.

Some prominent people from Kozluk

Book cover (25)

H›d›r Bey (Xidir Beg) Camii (27)

Hazo Kalesi (26)


‹brahim Bey Camii

Back towards the old town centre youwill find the ‹brahim Bey Mosque in theKale quarter, with its beautiful minaretstill standing. Its internal artwork hasbeen nicely preserved along with cal-ligraphy in Arabic and Farsi. Accordingto the locals these two mosques arenamed after two of a trio of respectedMuslim brothers.

According to a tablet on the door, themosque was restored in 1705 at theinstruction of ‹brahim Bey, son ofMurtaza Bey from the well-knownGarzan Tribe. It has a tall, nicelydecorated high minaret, which can beclimbed using either of two stairways.There is a sundial on the southern partof minaret at the level of dome. To theleft of the mosque in the courtyard are

a number of tombs belonging to‹brahim Bey and members of hisfamily also a religious boarding schoolto accommodate 35 students.

Hallan Çemi (Çemê Helan)

In Kaletepe village (Dehlik) you canview an ancient settlement, one of theearliest archaeological sites of Turkey,dating back to 10000–8000 BC. It wasonce a hunting settlement. The itemsfound during its excavation are part ofthe collection at the Diyarbak›rArchaeological Museum and are stillbeing processed.

Rabat Kalesi

Some 18km north of Kozluk town arethe ruins of Rabat fortress inYan›kkaya (Simaîlka) village. The castlewas built by the Byzantines during aperiod of conflict with the Persiansover the Erzen region in the fourthcentury.

Kandil Kalesi

Six kilometres northwest of Kozluk, onthe way to Sason, is this fortress in thesouth of the Bölükkonak (Hergemo)

Traditional methods of Agriculture in Kozluk (28)

‹brahim Bey Camii (29)

Batman/Kozluk 331

village. It was built bythe Byzantines duringthe first part of thefourth century atop ahill, for them to keepan eye on fortificationsfurther south.

Bekirhan (Kaniya Henê)

Bekirhan is a small district of Kozluk.Every year, thousands of pilgrimsvisit the tomb of the intellectualSheikh Muhammed Zilan (Bavo Kalo)and his relatives, near Bekirhan.Among the others buried here areSheikh Kas›m , Sheikh Halid Zilan,Ayfleta and Anne Fatma.

People gather at the tomb every yearend of May and, carrying their babiesin their arms, they pray and ask toobtain the Sheikh’s protection. Theplace is not only supposed to cureproblems, but also to help unmarriedyouths find a partner for life and tohelp make dreams come true.

Tafll›dere Thermal Springs

Between Batman and Bekirhan, 39kmfrom Batman and on the way to Kozluk

is the newly built Bato Termal Hotel(0488 426 60 41)http://www.bato.com.tr/ ), with ahot-spring complex. The hotel has 54rooms, each with its own thermal bath.There are also separate pools for menand women and two more outdoorpools for children and adults as wellas number of privet rooms in the firstfloor which can be rented for daily orhourly use, plus a 24-hour restaurant.The hotel also dose offer small sportcentre and massage services.

The source of the spring water is inthe village of Tafll›dere (Holê). Thecomposition of the water is similar tothat from the Çermik spring inDiyarbak›r province, and is meant to be

able to help treatrheumatism,polio, nephritis,gynaecologicalproblems andupper respiratoryand skin infec-tions. The placeis ideal to spenda night or two if

you are visiting Sason or Kozluk.

Tafll›dere Y›ld›z Springs

This establishment located justopposite Bato Termal Hotel is a moreinexpensive place than the BatoTermal Otel (0488 426 63 20). Thereare also number of restaurants andshops are nearby.

Bato thermal hotel (32)

Praying at Zilan tomb (30)

Bekirhan Zilan Türbesi (31)


Given the steep topography of the townof Sason (population 10,673), 80kmfrom Batman, there are only fewparcels of land around suitable foragriculture and these are mostly usedto cultivate tobacco. But it is fororganic honey and walnuts that thetown is well known, and this produceinspired the vibrant Honey and WalnutFestival, establishedin October 2001 andheld annually eversince.

The main temptationfor visitors is theunspoilt natural

beauty of the high mountains and deepvalleys, most strikingly the narrowgreen valley of the Batman River,which runs alongside the road untilyou arrive in this small andmountainous town. Sason is an idealplace to experience genuine ruralhospitality and traditional life, and toexplore fabulous alpine countryside.

Most houses are stillbuilt in the traditionalstyle, of stone supportedby large wooden beams,in keeping with thealpine scenery.

Sason has historicallyhad a strong Armenian identity. Once itwas the focus of two major armedrebellions, which were harshly putdown by the Ottomans rulers.According to some historians, thoserebellions eventually led to the exten-sive Armenian events of the 1920s.

To the north of Sason, there are stillsome small Armenian villages. Sasonalso features the remains of a fewArmenian religious sites, including two

Kom Monastery (33)

Armenian event (34)

Exile

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Sason (Kabil Cevz/Qabilcewz)

Batman/Sason 333

churches in the old part of town and asmaller church just behind the armybase near the town council buildings.Some parts of the town centre andnearby villages are now home to alarge Arab community. The Arabs ofSason and its environs are mostlythose who have migratedfrom Basra in Iraq.

The town centre andmain bazaar arelively, and you willfind many teahousesand groups of menplaying cards andchatting. Most of therestaurants and shopsare on the main street,where you will also find thetown's bus station.

Kom Monastery

The Monastery of St.Peter of Kom, atan altitude of 2000m on Mount Mereto,opposite to the Ayd›nl›k Mountains(Meleto Mountain) is worth visitingalthough a bit difficult to access. Aone-hour drive from Sason to thenortheast will get you to the nearest

village, Derince (Kaxik), and then it is atwo-hour walk to this well kept,two-storey building which once wasused to train priests.

The monastery, probably dating fromthe eleventh century, had 365 roomsand some parts of the complex arestill well preserved, although it is nowused by shepherds for keepinganimals. In what once used to be anarchitectural jewel, you can still feelthe atmosphere of seclusion and enjoyfresh air and a breathtaking view.

Pertukan andBozikan Fortresses near Sason

Pertukan Fortress to the east ofTekevler (Gundênû) village is approxi-mately 4km southwest of Sason. Theremains of the site can be seen from adistance and a 15-minute walk willbring you to the summit where thefortress sits. Dating from theByzantine period, the fortress isalmost entirely in ruins. There arelarge breaches in the walls and thefortress was captured many times over

the years because of the rela-tively accessible terrain.

Some thirty minutesfurther along thesame route isBozikan Fortressin Kale Yolu village(Bozikan). Once

offering a vantagepoint over the Silk

Road, it also dates fromthe Byzantine period,

specifically the fourth century.

A view from Kom Monastery (38)

Kom Monastery (36)

Sason plateaus (37)

Hasankeyf (Heskîf)


Hasankeyf (population 3,271) is a smalland pleasant town, easily reachable byroad from Batman and Midyat, andthere is a daily bus connection withVan. A 35km dolmufl journey fromBatman will bring you to this gorgeousancient town which overlooks theTigris River, and which was once amajor intersection on the Silk Road.The town has seen a succession ofcivilisations come and go. Now a daysfaces a very active resistantcampaign from the differentNGO’s, the local Kurdishauthorities and Kurdish andTurkish intellectualssupported by theenvironmentalists, it is itselfset to become a thing of thepast, when it is inundatedfollowing the completion ofthe Il›su Dam.

Hasankeyf was of strategicimportance both for the Byzantinesand the Sassanids, who fought for thecontrol of the region during the third

century. The Great Palace on thecitadel was likely built to protect theByzantine Empire from the Sassanids.Muslim armies probably took the

region in 638. With the Artukidreign from 1101 to 1232,Hasankeyf reached its apogeeand became the capital of theArtukids of Hasankeyf.

In 1232, Hasankeyf was takenover by the Kurdish Ayyubiddynasty and was ruled byal-Kamil, a nephew of Saladin.The city was captured andsacked by the Mongols in

1260. In the second half of the 15thcentury, Hasankeyf came under theinfluence of the Akkoyunlu (White

A view from Hasankeyf (39)

Silk road (40)

Eyyubid coins (41)

Batman/Hasankeyf 335

Sheep Turcomans), who constructedtwo tombs here. The Ottomanspenetrated the region in the firstquarter of the 16th century, by whichtime Hasankeyf was in slow decline.

According to the Sheref Nameh,written by the Kurdish noble fierefxanêBedlîsî also known as Sharaf Al DinBitlisi, the place derives its name froma situation involving an Arab prisonerwho asked for one last request beforehis execution. The man, named Hasan,asked for his horse to be brought intocitadel so he could ride him one lasttime. The guards acceded, and thehorse managed to leap such a dis-tance that Hasan escaped into thewaters of the Tigris, but at the cost ofthe life of his horse. His fellow prison-ers who saw the escape shouted“Hasan, keif?” (“Hasan, how?”).

Ottoman archives describe Hasankeyfas a city of cave dwellings with twocaravanserais and four mosques. Thecave dwellings, either natural cavitiespockmarking the surrounding cliffs ordug out of the calcareous rock, havebeen inhabited for some 3000 yearsand there are no fewer than 4000 ofthese, some of them are still in use.

But with the advent of the TurkishRepublic, the cultural heritage ofHasankeyf was forgotten and in 1954,when plans for the Il›su Dam as part ofthe Southeastern Anatolia Project(GAP) were announced, most of theinhabitants left, though constructionturned out to be much delayed. Thetown was declared a conservation areain the early 1980s. At the end of the1990s, local civic organizations began

campaigning to stop the Il›su Dam. Anew international consortium to buildthe dam has been formed after thefirst consortium collapsed due topublic pressure. Meanwhile the townhas been placed on the 2008 WorldMonuments Watch List of 100 most

Hasankeyf Kale (42)

A view of Hasankeyf old bridge (43)


endangered heritage sites, compiledby the World Monuments Fund, aleading conservation NGO.

Supporters of the dam point out thatthe key monuments of Hasankeyf,among them the remains of the oldbridge, will be moved to a so-called“culture park” and that the drownedcave houses will become superb divesites. The dam’s opponents argue thatthe sandstone of which the structuresare built will not survive being moved.Other opponents such as theorganised and active Il›su DamCampaign groups are working to stopthe construction of this project overthe River Tigris. The group arguesconstruction plans for the dam wouldlead to the flooding of about 300square kilometers and would forciblydisplace up to 78000. Visit today andlocals may speak to you of the legendsof the place and of their sorrow at theimpending loss of this historically richtown and of the ensuing displacementof local people. They may also say thatthe real motive of the dam’s construc-

tion is to wipe out a significant chunkof Kurdish culture and history in theregion but also to control water in toSyria and Iraq.

If you arrive from Batman you will seethe town appear on the east side of themodern Atatürk Bridge across theTigris, which runs roughly northwardshere. All the historical sites ofHasankeyf are within easy walkingdistance of one another, though youwill find some of them hard to identifyand you may need to ask locals forhelp. After the bridge, the first turningon the right off the main street willlead you past some souvenir shopsand give access to the Mosque ofR›zk›ye, the citadel and the Koç Camii,amongst other sites.

The Mosque of R›zk›ye (Er-R›zk)

Standing prominently above the river isthe double-staircased minaret of thismosque. It was built in 1409, and thedate is inscribed on the beautifulthree-lobed portal of the mosque,which shows similarities with the



portal of the Zinciriye Madrasa inMardin (see p: 365). You may well seenesting storks atop the minaret itself.The courtyard (walk around themodern mosque and enter via the doorwhich provides access to the maletoilets) is worth visiting. Here awonderful facade has been preserved.

The Old Bridge

This bridge, thought to have been builtover the remains of a Byzantinebridge, was the largest stone bridgeever built and once had the samefeatures as the Malabadi Bridge (seep: 303). The bridge was constructed inthe early 12th century under theArtukids, and became disused in theearly 14th century. It was restored bythe Artukid Ruler al-Adil Ghazi(1341–1367), and glazed tiles and theuse of brick suggest that the bridgewas also restored by the Akkoyunlu inthe second half of 15th century. InOttoman times the bridge becameruined again. Almost nothing is lefttoday save a few stumps. You can get

good views of the bridge from theAtatürk Bridge or the citadel, or bydescending to the river – take the littleroad down a little way beyond theR›zk›ye Mosque.

The Citadel

Continuing along the road from theR›zk›ye mosque brings you after a fewminutes into a ravine with cliffs toeither side. A pair of drinkingfountains lie at the start of the pathup to the citadel, on the right. Thepath is made of smooth stones, sotake care not to slip.

Offering excellent views over the TigrisRiver, the citadel (typically open from

R›zk›ye (Er-R›zk) Camii(45)

A detail from R›zk›ye (Er-R›zk) Mosque(46)


dawn to dusk) might seem oddlynamed as it has no walls these days. Itwas probably built by the Byzantines inthe course of their fight against theSassanids, and augmented during theArtukid era. The Artukids came up withan ingenious system of hidden tunnelsdug into the cliffs to bring water intothe citadel, and the Ayyubids con-structed pipelines bringing water fromsprings further up. The citadel wasbadly damaged during the Mongolinvasion.

Once at the top of the path, turn rightto reach the Küçük Saray (SmallPalace), overlooking the R›zk›yeMinaret (viewed from the AtatürkBridge, the palace is the box-

like structure clinging above a whitishprecipice). It was built in 1328 by theAyyubid prince MuciruddinMuhammed. It is believed that thedoors were decorated with goldinscriptions, though they do notsurvive. On top of the window in thenorthern side of the palace are Arabicbas-reliefs.

In the opposite direction from theKüçük Saray are theUlu Cami (GreatMosque) and

Citadel gate(47)

Küçük saray (small palace)(48)


Büyük Saray (Grand Palace). Of theGreat Mosque three foundationinscriptions are known: one on theiwan by which you enter the mosque(1394), one on the minbar (1396) whichis now in the excavation house, andone on the ruined minaret (1520), andit is likely that there was a mosquehere even earlier, since it is locatedclose to the Great Palace. The mosquewas still in use as recently as the1990s. Interestingly, the palace has adetached tower facing the entrancegate, most probably used as a watch-tower. It is believed that the palacehad private rooms with a secret gateleading to the harem. Two storeys ofthe palace can be seen today but exca-vations may reveal yet another storey.

A zigzag passageway can be seen cutinto the cliff on the opposite side of theroad leading to the citadel. This is anexample of one of the hidden supplytunnels which used to be painstakinglydug. From the Atatürk Bridge you cansee another example cut into the cliffbelow the citadel itself, but do not

attempt to use this to access thecitadel here as the steps are now tooworn for safe use.

The citadel gate itself has aninscription stating that it was built bythe Ayyubid Sultan Suleiman. Thefaçade of the gate is made of ashlarmasonry, while the back is made ofrubble. Sadly, dangerous cracks haveemerged in the gate.

Ulu camii (49)

Küçük saray (small palace) (50)


Sultan Suleiman Camii,Koç Camii, and K›zlar Camii

The other prominent minaret inHasankeyf is that of the SultanSuleiman Mosque, another example ofAyyubid architecture; it is easilyspotted as the tip of the minaret hasdisappeared, leaving an oddlytruncated structure. The building wasbuilt in three phases which are partlyrecorded on the building itself. Thefirst building inscription is found onthe eastern portal, stating that theportal was built by the Ayyubid el-AdilGhazi in 1351–52. During the reign ofSuleiman, the father of al-Adil Ghazi,the mosque was partly destroyed dueto an earthquake. Suleiman had partsrebuilt as the minaret in 1406–07 and afountain to the east of the courtyard in1416. The local chronicler ofHasankeyf, Ibn al-Munshi, wrote thatal-Adil Ghazi had a madrasah built inwhich he was also buried, and thismight have been the madrasa adjacentto the Sultan Suleiman Mosque.Besides the minaret and the portaland fountain on the east side, the

western room of the mosque, by whichyou now reach the building, is prettysensational, containing a dome withwonderful stucco decoration. You canreach the minaret by turning left uphilljust after the R›zk›ye Mosque, or bywalking up the main street and takingthe first turning on the right just beforethe PTT.

To the southeast is the Koç Camii, witha large courtyard with rooms around it.A dome accentuates the mihrab thatwas made of stucco over brick. It mighthave been modelled after a portal lead-

The ruins of the bridge by night (51)

Koç Camii (52)


ing to the domed room; extensive stuc-co decoration of this entrance suggeststhat it was actually the original mihraband was later enlarged.

Also near the Koç Camii is the K›zlarCamii, most probably a complex oftombs and believed to be the work ofthe Ayyubids. There are some beautifulexamples of decorative motifs in thenorthern entrance to the tomb thatindicate its former magnificence.Interestingly, the ruins are only 3mhigh, indicating the mosque was nevercompleted.

Küçük Kale (Darphane)

The Küçük Kale, or “Small Citadel”,is above the cliff opposite the maincitadel. It was actually used by theAyyubids and the Artukids for mintingcoins, examples of which can be seenat Mardin’s museum. If you lookcarefully, you should be able todistinguish the remains of a pool,pipelines and a tank near the cavedwellings which are used today ascafés.

‹mam Abdullah Mausoleum

This religious complex comprising aminaret, a tomb and large rooms issituated close to the Atatürk Bridge,on the hill on the western side. On thedoors of the mausoleum, now in thecollection of the Diyarbak›r Museum,an inscription states that the buildingwas restored in 1474 by Khalil, the sonof the Akkoyunlu Sultan Uzun Hasan,and it is believed that the complex wascreated a mausoleum for thisAkkoyunlu Prince. The name of themausoleum refers to a Shiite ‹mam,Muhammad bin Abdallah at-Taiyar,

Sultan Süleyman Camii(53)

Küçük Kale(54)


whose shrine used to benearby and was thereason of the mausoleumwas built in this location.

The Zeynel BeyMausoleum and theOttoman Hamam

Plainly visible in the fields oppositeHasankeyf and just upriver from theArtukid Bridge is this distinctive cylin-drical türbe, built in the Akkoyunlu erafor Zeynel Bey, son of Sultan UzunHasan. Zeynel Bey died in 1473 in awar against the Ottoman SultanMehmet Fatih. The mausoleum was adistinctive structure, built in a style

that can be called Iranian or centralAsiatic. The closest parallels are to befound in Iran, for example at the BlueMosque in Tabriz. The onion dome istypical of the Akkoyunlu style. Theused of glazed mosaics on the exteriorforming the names of Allah,Muhammad and Ali has been a featureof central Asian architecture sinceTimurid times. Close to the west bankand a little further downriver are theremains of a squat, circular OttomanHamam.

Hasankeyf Caves

The valley of the Hasankeyf town iscovered with the caves. There arearound 400 thousand caves in andaround the town. The caves whichwere inhabitant by people recently are

empty now. There are some proj-ects to about arranging the

caves as boutique hotelsand restaurants; howev-er the due build damprojects which aim tosubmerge this ancient

city for electricity puthold to most touristicproject plans.

Mor Aho Monastery(Deyr Mahar)

Located in the Ban-› Mahar country-side 10km east of Hasankeyf, thismonastery is perched some 150meters above the Tigris on a plateau.With the gradual departure of theChristian population, the monasteryslowly became deserted and is now inruins.

Hasankeyf valley and caves(57)

Zeynel Bey Moseleum(55)

Imam Abdullah’s Moseleum(56)


Zeynel Bey mausoleum and Otoman hamam(58)

The Batman and Hasankeyf Culture and Art Festival

Protest at Batman Hasankeyf art and culture festival (59)


344

For the five days of Batman andHasankeyf’s Culture and ArtFestival, at the end of Septemberand start of October, the towns ofBatman and Hasankeyf is packedwith people who come to enjoyperformances of music and view artexhibitions, taking part in confer-ence and open discussion aboutthe impact of the dam building inthe region. The festival also pro-vides a platform for many environ-mental activates and campaignersto meet the people of the regionand exchange ideas. Hundreds ofdelegates come to HasankeyfFestival, many whom are well

known foreign and nationalsingers, actors and campaigners.On the last day of the event peoplealong with the members of theMP’s, Municipality Mayors, impor-tant cultural and political figuresstart a peaceful march toHasankeyf and spend the nightthere. All night live music concertkicks off late afternoon, whileduring the sultry night the festivalgoers relax on the banks of theTigris, where kebabs can be eatenand washed down with a colddrink. For more info contactMunicipality: 0488 213 27 59


An overnight stay is recommended as the morning and evening light are particu-larly effective for photography. A few simple rooms are available at the smallHasankeyf Motel (0488 381 20 05), so close to the east side of the Atatürk Bridgethat the floor trembles when trucks go past. Facilities are shared and basic, withno air-conditioning, but the family that runs it is friendly and speaks English.There is also the small teachers’ guesthouse (ö¤retmenevi) on the hill diagonallyopposite (0488 381 27 20), where the best times to seek accommodation are inthe summer and at weekends, when the teachers are unlikely to be around. Insummer too you can try the riverside restaurants, which put out taht beds thatyou can sleep in for a small fee; the experience of sleeping under the stars bythe Tigris, in the breeze and with the sound of water rushing past, can be magi-cal. Alternatively, use Batman or Midyat as a base for a day-trip to Hasankeyf.

In late spring and summer makeshiftrestaurants open up right by the Tigris,delightful places where you can let your feetdangle in the water or seat on the tahtplaced on the river while you enjoy grilledTigris fish and meat specialities. The cafésin the cave dwellings, such as YolgeçenHan› (0488 381 22 87), kitted out rusticallywith carpets, cushions and old woodencouches, are also good options and areespecially popular for a drink and localKurdish food after people have taken in thesummer sunset. Otherwise, the town’s mainstreet has a couple of restaurants, such asthe Antik Kent, which offers good florbe(soup) for breakfast and a range of dishesthe rest of the day.

Accommodation

Places to eat

Restaurants by the Tigris River(61)

Yolgeçen Han›(62)

Küçük Saray (63)


Located between Midyat andHasankeyf, Gercüfl (population 5,260)lies 60km from Batman on a plateau atan altitude of 850m, surrounded bymountains.

Some part of the region is also knownas “the place of the a¤a (minor landedgentry)”, and there is a nice storyabout them. Four men from Gercüflwere on their way to Batman in ashabby old car at the height of

summer. Due to the heat, they had tokeep the windows open all the way tokeep themselves cool. When they gotclose to Batman, one of them said,“Look, we are nearly at the city centre,so we have to wind up the windows.”They all did so to give the pretence oftravelling in an air-conditioned car.

Ar›ca

Most of Gercüs’s historical sites lieoutside Gercüs town and can generallybe reached on day-trips fromHasankeyf or Midyat. For example,head for the beautiful village of Arica(Kefri), 20km away from the town,where enchanting cave monasteriescan be found. The village has adistinctive Assyrian identity, withbeautiful stone houses in thetraditional style still in good shape.

In the middle of the village, Mor YakupChurch has been recently restored byan Syrian Christian local and is worthvisiting. The doorman will be happy tolet you in and show you around. Thechurch was built in the fifth century,

Chi

ldre

n in

Ger

cüfl

(64)

Gercüfl (Kercews/Kercos)

Cooking lady in Gercüfl (65)

Some of the well known people of Gercüfl

People from the area take pride in the accomplish-ments of local-born figures such as the Armenian poetKarapêtê Xaço his name also recorded as KarapetKhachatrian (1902–2005), a singer of traditionalKurdish dengbêj music, which often tells tales ofromance or war. He survived the Armenian events,having been rescued by a famous local lord called ÇetoAga, and only recently passed away in the Armeniancapital Yerevan. Karapêtê Xaço is much respected

among Kurds for laying a musical foundation for futuregenerations. His best-known songs include Ay lo mîro,Adûlê, Çûme Cizîre, Xim ximê and Lê dayê.

Another iconic figure was the Kurdish poetCegerxwîn (1903–1984), whose real name wasSêxmûs Hesen. Born in a village called Hesarê in theGercüfl area, he attended madrasahs around Diyarbak›rand obtained an icaze (a certificate qualifying him tolecture at madrasahs). He then worked as an imam indifferent villages, though this stopped when he wasexiled to Syria along with other Kurdish intellectuals.Cegerxwîn’s involvement in poetry began when hewas a teenager, and his poems, whose themes mainlyconcerned rebelling, history, Kurdish intellectuals and

love, were first published in a Kurdish magazine, Hawar (see p: 474) .Most of his poems became well known through being set to music. Anexample appears below:

fiêr û Piling û Rovî / Lion, Tiger and Foxfiêr û piling tev de çûn / Lion and tiger were walkingLeqay seriyek penîr bûn / They found a piece of cheeseVê jî xwar û wê jî xwar / They both wanted to eat itHerdu li hev dane dar / So they fought for the cheeseYekî ji ê dî re got / One told the other an ideaHerdu rabûn bûne cot / So they agreed on itGo: em herin cem rovî / One said: let’s go to the foxLi seydayê wehfl û kovî / To the expert of the wild lifeEw ê me li hev du bîn / He will create the peace between usÇavê fieytênî derîn / He can find a solutionRovî got: de rabin zû / Fox said: move immediatelyJi mi re bînin terazû / Bring me a pair of scalesWan terazû anî ber / They brought a pair of scales to himRovî penîr danî ser / Fox put the cheese on the scaleAlîk pir û yek hindik / One scale carrying a big amount the other wassmallerYek bû giran yek sivik / One scale was heavy the other was lightParîk ji a giran bir / He ate some from the heavy partEw j’ a dî bû siviktir / Then the other scale became heavierGeh ev xwar û geh ew xwar / He ate from this part and that part Heta ko ma ben û dar / Till only the scales leftCegerxwîn, 31 December, 1932, 14th Hawar Magazine by C.A.B.

The point in this fable is the dispute between a lion and a tiger over apiece of cheese, who seek the arbitration of a fox on to lose that cheeseto wise fox.

Cegerxwîn (67)

Karapêtê Xaço (66)

349

and the main hall and entrance stillhave some original calligraphy thatcan be made out.

The final act of worship in the churchtook place in 1992, before theremaining Syrian Christians left forGermany, Sweden and theNetherlands. According to the village

elders, there were once a hundredfamilies here, of which sixty wereSyrian Christians and forty KurdishMuslims. Before the SyrianChristians emigrated, they entrustedtheir properties to their Kurdishneighbours, since when the remain-ing villagers have been looking afterthese properties as if they were theirown, a wonderful testament to theinterfaith camaraderie which exists indaily life but rarely makes headlines.If you choose to tour the regionextensively, you will find that most ofthe villages fit this description, withSyrian Christians coexisting harmo-niously with their neighbours forgenerations.

The Syrian Christians were oncerenowned for growing the bestgrapes of the region, mainly used forwine production. There are indeedquality vineyards in Arica, althoughthe art of vintners is dying, and thereis no one left to go on with the pro-duction of wine. As a consequence,the vineyards are now essentiallybeing used for producing pekmez


Welcome grapes in Ar›ca village (68)

Mor Yakup church (69)

(dims in Kurdish) (a thick syrup made byboiling down grape juice) and othergrape derivatives.

From the church, you can walk down foraround 10 min to view the HabisMonastery, the rooms of which weredug out of the rock; in fact themonastery’s name derives from therocks. The construction date is not clearbut it was believed to have been built asa sun temple by sun worshipers. Some

of the walls been carved as shelves tohold books, at the main entrance youcan see some stonework and statues,and some handmade sun figures canbe seen in the first floor of this is dou-ble storey monastery. The first floor isconsists of a large hall and six smalland big rooms in which the monksslept, while on the second floor thereare few rooms where once used asretirement rooms by the monks.

Batman/Gercüfl 351

Habis Monastery (70)

Hap

py C

hild

ren

from

Ger

cüfl(7

1)

The ingenious construction collectsrain water for human use and theinterior is filled with sunlight all daylong. Look north from this point andyou will see the ruins of a smallchurch on the top of a hill.

Vergili (Bêcirman)

Further some 23km south of Gercüfl isthe village of Vergili, where you canvisit the mausoleum of Seyid Bilal(1132–1212). It is believed that SeyidBilal moved here from Baghdad in1154. Bêcirman means “the one that isexempted from paying taxes”, which ismost probably indicative of the promi-nent social position of the Seyids, towhom Muslims show great respect.Once the Turkish Republic born, aspart of Turkish government policy ofaltering the names of 28000 villagesand towns the name Bêcirman waschanged to vergili meaning pay taxesto make a point about the village’s his-tory of not paying taxes.

Local legend has it that a visit to SeyidBilal’s mausoleum can help womenwho wish to get pregnant. Festivitiesare organised each year to commemo-rate Seyid Bilal, and take place on thenight of the first Thursday ofSeptember, when thousands ofdescendants of the Prophet gatherhere, as well as pilgrims from allaround the country.

It is possible to stay at the two-storey,twenty-room guesthouse for freedirectly opposite the mausoleum, builtwith the help of the Seyid BilalFoundation.


Visitors in Vergili (72)

Seyit Bilal Türbesi (73)

A view from Mardin (1)

There has been settlement in theMardin area dating as far back as4000 BC. The Sumerian KingLugarzergiz took control of thearea in 2850 BC, but this controlwas short-lived, with the Akkadianstaking over some thirty years later.In 2500 BC, the Akkadians andSumerians jointly established a statehere. Thereafter control passed fromthem to the Hurrians, Babylonians,Hittites, Assyrians, Medes,Macedonians, Parthians, Sassanidsand Byzantines, followed by Islamicdynasties such as the Abbasids,Hamdanids and Seljuks. Under theArtukids Mardin was an importanteconomic and political centre. It alsoflourished in religious terms in the11th and 12th centuries during theso-called Sunni Revival, when Islammade its presence tangible inMesopotamian cities throughmadrasahs. All this required strongdefences, which Mardin had thanks toits hillside location with a citadelabove. While other Artukid centresdisappeared because of Ayyubidattacks in the first part of the 13thcentury, Mardin’s Artukids survived.During the Mongol invasion of 1260there were major battles in Mardinbut the citadel resisted conquest. It

wasn’t until 1401 that the Mongolswere successful when Tamerlane tookthe citadel and destroyed the city andits fields. The Artukids were fatallyweakened; the city came under theKarakoyunlu (black sheep Turcomans)and later the Akkoyunlu (white sheepTurcomans), who restored what sur-vived of the Artukid era.

It is for the architecture that manytourists and honeymooning couplesand those seeking romantic weekendsin Mardin, to view the old city’s beauti-ful houses and mosques with their



745,778 (2007)

Average altitude


DistrictsMardin, Dargeçit, Derik, K›z›ltepe,

Maz›da¤, Midyat, Nusaybin, Ömerli,

Savur, Yeflilli

EconomyAgriculture, Livestock farming,

Tourism, Light industry


fianl›urfa (west), Diyarbak›r (north),

Siirt (northeast), fi›rnak (east)

At aglance

Mardin at night (2)

intricate stonework, as well as toadmire the views of the Mesopotamianplains stretching away to the south.But Mardin is about much more thanarchitecture. The province is alsowhere most of Turkey’s remainingSyrian Christian community resides,and their many ancient monasteriesand churches can be found not only inurban areas but also in the plateauknown as Tur Abdin, east of the townof Midyat. It’s worth visiting at leastone of the monasteries, and mosttourists see either Deyrul Zafaran justoutside Mardin city or Mor Gabrielnear Midyat; both sites feature attrac-tive stonework, bell towers andchapels, and more importantly theyoffer a glimpse of a religious traditionthat is managing to survive despiteconsiderable emigration among theSyrian Christians. Midyat itself isworth a visit, boasting architecturethat is as good as Mardin’s.Elsewhere, you can visit anothersuperb example of Syrian Christianarchitecture in the Virgin Mary Churchof An›tl›; a substantial archaeologicalsite at Dara, where there are ancientcisterns and strange cliffside gravesto be seen; and the small town ofSavur, where there are more attrac-tive stone houses on view. And you

can also taste the delicious cuisine,including various Arabic, Kurdish andTurkish specialities, washed downwith the esteemed local wine (Süryanifiarab›) also not to forget picking upsome of the famous Mardin sweets.

As in other provinces of easternTurkey, the economy is dominated byagriculture, though tourism is alsoimportant here, as are some indus-tries such as the production ofmaterials for the construction sector.

Mardin 357

Mardin has produced anumber of prominent fig-ures, including the openlygay writer, poet and drama-tist Murathan Mungan,born here in 1955. Amonghis best-known works areKad›ndan Kentler andParan›n Cinleri also themarathon MesopotamiaTrilogy, which is 11hours long.

From the Syrian Christiancommunity, one well-knownindividual is Gabriel Akyuz,born in the Alagöz(Bakisyan) village in 1959.He learned Syriac at MorGabriel Monastery and haspublished a number ofbooks on Syrian Christianchurches and culture, in par-ticular music. He is also aknown ecclesiastical figure,and has the title ofhoriepiskopos at K›rklarChurch (for Apê Musa(Musa Anter)see, Nusaybin, p: 387)

Some prominent people from

Mardin

Mardin CityThere is saying: “You have seen noth-ing unless you have visited Mardin!”.With a population of 82,134, this is acity where different religions,languages and faiths coexist, withArabs, Syrian Christians and Kurdsrubbing shoulders. They celebrateeach other’s religious festivals:Muslims invite Christians to eat lambduring the Islamic Feast of theSacrifice while Christians offerMuslims painted eggs at Easter. In factMardin (the name may come frommerdo meaning “fortress” in Syriac) isthe only city in Turkey in which Turkishis not that much spoken. And Mardin isalso a true historical and culturaljewel, one where the exquisitestonework of the architecture willleave a lasting impression.

The city is in two parts. The old city,with its architectural treasures, sits atan altitude of 1000m atop the southside of a steep rocky hill with amazingvistas over the plains towards Syria.This historical core was declared aconservation area in the 1960s, whichmeant new construction, was banned.Since then most government officeshave moved down into the new citythat has sprung up in the plains.

Visitors will want to spend most oftheir time admiring the houses andmosques of the old city, which has just

two main streets running west to east:Birinci Cad and, lower down thehillside, Yeni Yol. A useful landmarkfrom which to start is the main square,Cumhuriyet Meydan›, near the westernend of Birinci Cad.

Mardin Museum

The museum was opened in 1947 butonly moved into its current premises inCumhuriyet Meydan›, close to thewestern end of the old city, in 2000after the Ministry of Culture boughtand restored what had been a magnifi-cent Syrian Catholic patriarchalresidence, part of the adjacent VirginMary Church which was build in 1895.The museum is open daily except forMonday (0482 212 16 64).

The first floor comprises conferencerooms while on the second floor arethe library and ethnography displays,where Artukid and Ottoman relics canbe seen. The third floor containsarchaeological displays. The worksuncovered in excavations at G›rnavaz(see p: 389) are displayed in the roomon the left while collection of worksacquired through purchasing isdisplayed in the other saloon.

The Virgin Mary Church

East of and behind the museum is thisSyriac Catholic church, built in the1960s and with 21 circular stonepillars. The baptism section has beennicely decorated with murals.

Mardin Kalesi

From Cumhuriyet Meydan› and else-where in town, you can’t fail to noticeMardin’s fortress, crowning the rockyslopes of the hill above the old city. Itwas built around 975 by theHamdanids, who called it El-Bez,meaning “The Falcon”. Stretchingsome 800m, it once contained amosque, bazaar, church, houses andpalaces; the structures that remain


Mardin Bazaar (3)

Two or three storeys tall, thehouses of the old city havestrikingly ornamented southfacades predominantly made ofyellow limestone, and spill downthe southern slopes on varioustiers without blocking the viewsfrom adjacent houses. Thewindows are particularlynoteworthy, as they are framed byarch-shaped stone borders with azigzag outline. The main gateleads to a courtyard providing anopen, semi-private space for thefamily. In summer, people movetheir takhts, or platform beds, outonto the terraces, while in winterthey are moved back inside. South-facing rooms and living areas aremainly used in the winter, whilethe areas at the rear of the houseare used in summer.

As you wander around the alley-ways of old Mardin, look out alsofor abbara – covered, archedpassageways formed by the linked

upper storeys of the houses to

either side. The Savurkap› quarter,

south of the eastern part of Yeni

Yol, is a particularly good place to

spot abbara. The alleyways them-

selves are too narrow for cars and

so you may well come across

donkeys and mules being used to

transport goods through them.

The houses and abbara of old Mardin

Mardin Houses (4)

Abbaras in Mardin (5)

359

date from the Artukids andAkkoyunlus. In the 12th century, thescholar and traveller Ibn Battutadescribed it as the most beautiful ofMuslim cities, while the Ottomantraveller Evliya Çelebi mentioned acave beneath the fortress containingwater cisterns and granaries.

The fortress had only one entrance inthe south. Apart from the south tower

on which flag flies, the surviving struc-tures include the Castle Mosque, H›z›rMosque and a mansion. Unfortunatelythe site is, like many fortresses of thistype, a military site and thus is closedto the public.

Sor Hovsep Church

Behind the museum to the northwestof the square is this Armenian Catholicchurch, also known as Mor Yusuf. Builtin 1894, it is still in use. Besidescharacteristic Mardin stoneworkadorning the facade, you will findprecious icons, oil lamps and otherreligious symbols inside. The altar wasmade by the stonemasons Selim,Cello, Corc, Gis brothers, Corc Garzeloand Cabare Gandura in 1950,according to inscriptions. The base ofthe structure has been filled up withtons of salt to prevent damp in thealtar.

K›rklar Church

Close to Sor Hovsep is K›rklar, alsoknown as Mor Behnam and his sisterSaro’s Church. The most active church


Mardin Kalesi (6)

Welcome smile from a local child (7)

in Mardin, it ison the rightside of a narrowroad leadingfromCumhuriyetMeydan› to theDiyarbak›rquarter, and is enteredthrough a heavy old irondoor. The church, on arectangular plan, acquiredits current shape in 1825and has 12 thick vaultedcolumns. On the eastside of a long courtyard,the church contains theusual icons, an altarwith handmade curtains,and a special box withinwhich Mor Behnam’s brain is pre-served. Restoration of the church hasrecently commenced.

The church was not always calledK›rklar. According to Syriac historianHarinli ‹sa, K›rklar was originally oneof seven churches built by a Byzantine

ruler called Arsusin 539. In the1170s the churchis known to havebeen taken byMuslims andpillaged. It is

quite likely thatMardin’s fiehidiyeMosque was built atthis time on the site ofthe church, and subse-quently Mor Behnam andhis sister Saro’s Churchbecame known asK›rklar, meaning “fortymartyrs” – a reference toa group of Roman sol-diers martyred for theirChristian faith in thefourth century.

American missionary buildings

From 1852 to 1860, Americanmissionaries opened a college and ahospital in the Diyarbak›r quarter withthe support of some Syrian Orthodox.When the missionary activities ended

Mardin 361

K›rklar Church (8)

Painting K›rklarChurch (10)

A painting from K›rklar Church (9)

in the 1960s, these buildings and theland were transferred to thegovernment building.

Abdullatif (Latifiye) Mosque

This mosque, south of CumhuriyetMeydan›, gives its name to the sur-rounding quarter, though in the 16thcentury area was once namedYahudiyan (meaning “Jewish” inTurkish), Kamil and Bimaristan, thefirst part of the name reflecting thefact that the majority of residentswere Jewish.

Inscriptions at the portal leading thecourtyard say the mosque was built bythe Artukid Sultan Abdullatif in 1371,though the minaret, in the northeast,was built upon the decree of MosulGovernor Gürcü Mehmet Pafla in 1845.The courtyard’s eastern portal is anexcellent example of this particularMardin architectural flourish, itscolumns bearing interweaving bandsand supporting a three-lobed arch withmuqarnas on its interior vault. Theportal has been restored and as aresult it has lost some of the originallimestone decoration, which detracts alittle from its original beauty. As istypical for Mardin mosques andmadrasahs, the courtyard has an iwanon its north side, containing a fountain.Inside, the mihrab is made oflimestone alternating with blackbasalt; to either side is a smaller nichewith muqarnas ornamentation. In thecourtyard lies the most beautifulfountain of Mardin, restored by themason Abdulcelil ‹ldo¤an with fundsfrom Münir Ça¤lar, a well-known localbusinessman.

Mor Hürmüz Church

A couple of minutes’ walk east ofCumhuriyet Meydan› is the MorHürmüzd Church, on the north side ofBirinci Cad. Believed to have been builtin 430, it acquired its present shape in

1890. Until 1552 this was a Nestorianchurch, but thereafter it became aChaldean establishment. The buildingcomprises three naves, an octagonaldome and a courtyard, reachedthrough a narrow corridor. The gravesof two metropolitan bishops arelocated inside.

Kas›m Tu¤maner Camii

Built in 1960, this mosque is on thesouth side of Birinci Cad. 400m east ofCumhuriyet Meydan› and is certainlyworth a look for its striking stonedoorway, intricately decorated allaround with finely cut stonework andwith two star-shaped apertures toeither side. Note also the minaret, cutwith spiral grooves along its length.The mosque was built up on a land

belonging to a Christian foundation inreturn for a donation by one Kas›mTu¤maner towards the construction ofa Syriac church in the Tarlabafl›quarter of ‹stanbul.

Kayseriye (Bedesten) Bazaar

Located on the north side of BirinciCad. and reached by a narrow alleynext to Kas›m Tu¤maner Camii, thiscovered bazaar was built during thereign of the Akkoyunlu Sultan Kas›m inthe 15th century. With four entrancesand spaces which provide light andventilation, in some respects it is theforerunner of Ottoman bazaars, and isstill functioning today.


The entrance Kas›m Tu¤maner Camii (11)

Ulu Cami

Continue east along Birinci Cad andafter a few minutes you will come tothis iconic building, one of the oldestmosques in Mardin, on the south sideof the road. Its minaret, visible fromthe bazaar, has a square base and acylindrical stem divided into horizontalbands, each with differentornamentation; an inscription dates itto 1176. The mosque is likely to becontemporaneous with the minaret,though a Kufic inscription on the northside of the courtyard might have beenpart of an earlier construction, judgingby its style.

The prayer hall, south of the courtyard,has three bays, only two of which arecovered by the dome over the mihrabarea. This arrangement is typical ofearly Artukid mosques, including theGreat Mosques of Silvan and K›z›ltepe,though the dome of Mardin’s Ulu Camiseems to have rebuilt subsequently.There is a second mihrab to the westof the one under the dome, probablybecause the mosque was used byHanefi and Shafi Muslims, each ofwhich prayed in their own area.

Ulu Cami Hamam

This hamam occupies a rectangularplot and is entered through a simple

Mardin 363

Mardin’s bazaars were originally organised such that each area wasdevoted to certain products or trades. That pattern still exists todaybut is much less strict, so you may come across a spice shop next to adrapery shop or furniture outlet.

Birinci Cad is lined with jewellers’and silk shops displaying productsmainly produced at their own ate-liers. Some of the gold shops mayalso have bottles of local wine ondisplay, which can be bought. Onthe south side are the bazaarscontaining shops selling fruit, veg-etables, spices, meat and sweets,plus blacksmiths, hardware stores,saddle-makers and tailors. Downthe steps on the south side ofBirinci Cad east of Ulu Cami is theHasan Ayar Bazaar, containing forwool traders, carpenters’ shopsand an outdoor market with manysmall outlets selling daily needs. Ingeneral, it’s worth looking out forunusual herbs, spices, scarves andsweets, imported into Mardinfrom Syria or Iraq, which are also the sources of the “smuggled tea”you will find in Mardin – of reasonable quality and not expensive.

Mardin’s bazaars

Kayseriye Bazaar (12)

gate behind Ulu Cami. It was built byArtukian Sultan Melik Salih(1312–1363) and is no longer in use.

S›hhi Emir Hamam

This historical bath, which resemblesthe Roman baths in Diyarbak›r, isentered from the street through aseries of archways right next to HasanAyar Bazaar. The building has twolarge domes, while the dressing roomhas three verandahs. The hamam isopen to men between 6.30am and noonand from 6.30pm to 10pm, and towomen between noon and5.30pm.

The Red Church(Surp KevorkChurch)

Further down closeto the Köflkteahouse, the roadleading to the rightfrom Cumhuriyet Bazaarwill take you to this


Telkari

Mardin is particularlyknown for telkari, filigreesilver or gold jewellerymade by Syriac artisansusing techniques that havebeen passed down fromfather to sons for genera-tions. Masters of the artcan weave their thinstrands of gold and silverinto beautiful necklaces,

earrings, chokers andeven belt buckles.

You’ll find telka-ri on sale inshops alongBirinci Cadand also inthe Kayseriye

Bazaar.

Ulu Camii (13)

Telkari (filigree) (14)

Armenian Catholic church, whichlocals call the Red (Hamra) Church. Itsconstruction dates back to 420. It is nolonger in use, but a project may soonbe under way to at least restore it.

Zinciriye (Sultan ‹sa) Madrasah

The Zinciriye Madrasah, built in 1385,can be reached after a short but steepwalk using the lanes leading northfrom Birinci Cad, from where it issignposted. The madrasah wasoriginally named after the last Artukidruler Necmettin ‹sa bin Davut, butlocals call it Zinciriye because the sup-posedly magic chain (zincir in Turkish)which spanned the two minarets UluCami once had was taken here afterone of them was destroyed.

The south facade of the building ispretty symmetrical, with ribbed domesto the east and west. This symmetry isinterrupted by the portal in the east,which resembles that of the AbdüllatifMosque and other Islamic buildings inMardin and could not be more eye-catching, with its incredible array ofstonework decorations, includingcircles and bands filled withfiligree-like reliefs andbands of Arabiccalligraphy. The doorwayis recessed from thefacade, the top part ofthe recess beingcovered by muqarnas,an arched honeycombof stone carved toresemble the unevenroof of a cave.

Entering the portal, youcan access to themadrasah’s mosque viaa corridor. The mosquehas a prayer hall with acentral dome in themiddle and two iwans tothe sides. The niche inthe mihrab contains

limestone, basalt and marble; aroundthe niche’s half-dome inscriptionsappear, while there is geometrical stardesign in a band around the niche andalso a band with interlocking tulipforms in alternating limestone andbasalt. Across the hall, the entrance tothe prayer hall copies the mihrab’slayout with the exception of muqarnasornamentation above the door. As istypical, the courtyard has an iwan tothe north.

It’s worth heading a little further upthe rocky slopes beyond the madrasahto get fantastic views over the buildingand, further afield, the ornamentedUlu Cami minaret and the plainsstretching out into the distance.

fiehidiye Camii and Madrasah

Birinci Cad slopes steeply downwardsto the east of the old town, bringingyou eventually to the fiehidiye quarterand the fiehidiye Mosque, locatedopposite the post office. According tohistorian Abdulgani Efendi, the

Mardin 365

Entrance door to Zinciriye (Sultan ‹sa) Madrasah(15)

mosque and the attendant madrasah were namedfiehidiye (relating to martyrs) as the graves of several

martyrs were found while the foundations werebeing laid.

You enter through a portal which is much lowerthan the street level, and which boasts strik-

ing carvings in limestone and reliefs –note the three-lobed arches and inter-weaving bands – and inscriptions in bothcursive and Kufic script. The portal gives

onto the courtyard via a barrel-vaulted cor-ridor. In the north of the courtyard lies an

iwan (an arched recess) with an ornamentalfountain and a mosque on the opposite side.

Note the three different lines of decorative stoneon the north facade of the mosque. The eight-

pointed star-shaped holes contain Kuficcalligraphy.

The madrasah here, no longer in use,was built by the Artukid leaderNecmeddin ‹lgazi, who reignedbetween 1239 and 1259. The originalminaret has been demolished and anew one built by the architect Lole(see below) at the mayor’s behestin 1916–1917. The minaret, with

two balconies, is adorned with vari-ous motifs. The mosque and

madrasah have been restored withdonations from businessman Reflat

Cihaner. On top of the mosque are twoworthwhile tea gardens.

The post office

Mardin’s grand post office (PTT), featuringthe classic stone ornamentation that typ-ifies the old town, was originally built in1890 as the residence of the fiahtanafamily and designed by a member of thatfamily, the ethnic Armenian architectSerkis Elyas Lole. Lole (also knownMimarbafl› Lole) set up his own architec-tural school at the start of the 20th cen-tury and was responsible for manyother monuments in the Mardin area,including the Sor Hovsep Church, theminaret of the fiehidiye Madrasah(possibly his most well-known work)and the patriarch’s room at DeyrulZafaran; he also designed the


fiehidiye Camii and Madrasah (16)

Armenian Catholic church inDiyarbak›r.

The fiahtana residence was convertedto a post office in 1953, but parts of itare open to visitorsand its balcony is agood spot fromwhich to take photosof the plains and theminarets below.Opposite are twowell-knownteahouses.

Reyhaniye Camiiand Bazaar

This mosque lies southof Birinci Cad within theHasan Ayar Bazaar,between the Ulu Camiand the fiehidiye Cami.Built on a rectangularplan in the 15th century, the mosquehas been restored several times andexpanded, and is now one of thelargest mosques in Mardin.

Hatuniyye Madrasah

In the eastern Gül quarter (turn left offBirinci Cad onto Eski Hükümet Cad),this madrasah was built by the ArtukidKaraarslan in 1206, according to the

inscription on the facade. It could con-ceivably have been built even earlierthan that as the tombs of Kutbettin‹lgazi (another Artukid, reigned

1176–1184) and his motherare found here.

The building is interestingto art historians as itexemplifies the revival andpersistence of classical(Graeco-Roman) elementsin Islamic art, though onlythe two rooms to thesouth of the courtyardare visitable. Both roomshave a mihrab and theseexhibit classicalelements in their shelldesigns, as do thedentils in the courtyardand one of the rooms.Early examples of

muqarnas can also be seen. Also hereis a footprint believed to be that of theProphet Mohammed which brought toMardin by Kutbettin ‹lgazi from Egypt.

Savurkap› Hamam(Bab’ussor Hamam›)

South of the madrasah is this hamam(also called S›tt› Radviye Hamam),which may have been built in the 12th

Mardin 367

The Post Office (17)

A footprint from

Prophet Mohammed (18)

or early 13th century, partly to providesome income to the madrasah. Thewarm room has barrel-vaulted iwansall around and a central dome. A reliefof a peacock was uncovered duringrecent renovations. The hamam isopen to women from noon to 5.30pmand to men from 6pm until 9pm.

Melik Mahmut (Bab al-Sur)Mosque

An Artukid inscription says thismosque, on Birinci Cad next door to

the Artuklu Kervansaray Hotel, wasbuilt by Mahmut (reigned 1313–1363).The portal is typical of the later Artukidperiod, though its arch is not three-lobed but pointed. If you go in, have alook up at the cross vault with anoctagonal form at the top, containingvegetal designs.

Kasimiye (Sultan Kas›m)Madrasah

Once you have explored Birinci Cad,you can move downhill to explore thearea surrounding the road below, YeniYol. Close to the western end of theroad is the Büyük Mardin Otel, next towhich a road leads to this much-visit-ed madrasah in the Cumhuriyetquarter. Although the exact date ofconstruction is unknown (1457 hasbeen recorded next to the main door’ssign), it is believed to have beenstarted during the Artukid period (andfeatures around the site bearsimilarities with the ZinciriyeMadrasah) but not completed becauseof attacks by Tamerlane; it was onlyfinished later, under the Akkoyunlu.

The building has two ribbed domes tothe east while on its western side isanother dome and a portal similar tothat of the Zinciriye Madrasah. The


Kasimiye (Sultan Kas›m) Madrasah (20)

(19)Savurkap› (bab’ussor) Hamam

courtyard has a central pool and aniwan to the north. Take time to lookaround as the ornamentation is a fineexample of Artukid craftsmanship. Thecolonnade to the south, for example,has beautiful cross vaults. To the eastand west of the courtyard are class-rooms, above whose doors aresymbols that probably represent whatclasses were taught within. Thewestern domed room has clearly beeninspired by the prayer halls of theZinciriye Madrasah, having a dome andtwo iwans; the mihrab has the sameinterlocking tulip forms in limestoneand basalt as found at Zinciriye.

Mor Mihayel or Burç Monastery

Also close the western end of Yeni Yolis the Saraço¤lu quarter, where youwill find the Syriac Orthodox MorMihayel Church. The age of the foun-dations supports the idea that it wasbuilt before the 10th century, andindeed an inscription on the walls says“This wall has been built in 921.Whoever reads these lines and isresponsible the structure should pray

for Priest Maron.” Other sources saythe church was built in 496. Thechurch has been restored recently bythe Tahincio¤lu family.

The Syriac inscription in the middle ofoctagonal bell tower, which was placedon the bastion in 1885, reads “BflemAloho”, meaning “in the name of God”.The eastern part of the churchincludes some tombs of saints datingback to the 5th century.

The Emineddin Quarter

Close to the western end of Yeni Yol isthe Emineddin quarter, named in the19th century after the historicallyimportant Emineddin complex builthere, which includes the first medicalcentre in Anatolia. Emineddin, whoinitiated the construction of thecomplex, was the brother of the localArtukid ruler Necmeddin ‹lgazi, whocompleted the work afterEmineddin died.

Besides a hospital, the Emineddincomplex comprises a mosque,madrasah, hamam and fountain. The

Mardin 369

Mor Mihayel (Burç) Monastry (21)

mosque, in the southernmost section,occupies a rectangular area and datesfrom 1093 according to the inscriptionat the entrance. Nearby is a stonecourtyard used for prayers. Therectangular madrasah is thought to belinked with the old hospital. Thefountain in west surrounds by thegarden is adjacent to the hamam,which is the oldest one in Mardin.It is mostly in ruins but a huge domesurvives.

The Necmeddin Quarter

East of the Emineddin quarter, theNecmeddin quarter was once calledZarraka, at least according to in 16th-century writings. The Asfar Mosquehere was built in 1093 according to theinscription at its entrance. It is saidthat Necmeddin ‹lgazi was buried inthe mosque after he died in Silvan inwhat is now Diyarbak›r province. Thiswas also the location where the firstexample of a courtyard with an iwan isto be found, as well as the earliestsurviving Artukid madrasah in Mardin.

Firdevs Pavilion

At the eastern outskirts of the oldtown, the Evren quarter is located onthe road leading south, down to the

plains and ultimately Nusaybin. On theright side of the road here, oppositethe army officers’ club, is the FirdevsPavilion, once the summer residenceof Artukid rulers. According to the poetKatip Ferdi, the rulers would have“resided in his residence by Tigris inspring, Ravzay› Firdevs in summer,Riflmil in autumn and Harzam inwinter.” With good views across theplains, the pavilion has been used as alocation in various film shoots and alsofeatures an ornamental fountain fed bya spring, and an iwan with a largepool.

Mort Shmuni Church

This age of this three-gated rectangu-lar Syriac church in Yeni Yol is notknown, but similarities with the K›rklarChurch suggest it may date from the6th century. The compound containsvarious annexes and is surrounded byhigh walls. An inscription on the belltower indicates the architect wasCabere Kandurad›r, commissioned byMousulian Metropolit Tuma Kass›r onMay 25, 1910. The church was skilfullyrestored by the Özkök brothers in2005. You can reach the church byheading south (downhill) along thewinding, narrow alleyways from theAbdullatif Mosque.

Another Look at East and Southeast of Turkey370Fi

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vilio

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2)

Mesopotamian Mythology

fiahmaran (23)

Mesopotamia has its own richmythology, populated by gods ordemigods. The Epic of Gilgameshis an epic poem from AncientMesopotamia and is one of theearliest works of literary fiction.Some scholars believe that it ispart of a series of Sumerian leg-ends and poems about the mytho-logical hero-king Gilgamesh,which were gathered into a longerAkkadian poem later on time;which nowadays preserved onnumber of clay tablets in thelibrary. It was titled “He Who Sawthe Deep” (Sha naqba îmuru) or“Surpassing All Other Kings”(Shûtur eli sharrî). The storyfocused around the relationshipbetween Gilgamesh, who hasbecome preoccupied by his rule,and a friend, Enkidu, who is half-wild and who undertakesdangerous quests with Gilgamesh.The rest of the epic has emphasison Gilgamesh's thoughts of lossfollowing Enkidu's death. A largesection of the book showsGilgamesh's search for immortalityafter Enkidu's death. The epic iswidely read in translation, and thehero, Gilgamesh, has become anicon of popular culture.

Another locally well-known char-acter is Shahmeran, half woman,half snake (below the waist), inmost houses her photo is hangedsomewhere and while travelling inthis region you may also see herimage depicted on buildings,painted on mirrors, trays or kilims.She symbolises of good luck, fertil-ity, light, feminity and wisdom.She also has horns and snakes’heads for feet. Items bearingShahmeran’s image can be found,albeit rarely, at coppersmiths’ andantique shops in Mardin. Theyshould not be passed up, servingboth as a memento of Mardin andas a good luck charm.

There are also many tales concern-ing the Pir Abok, a creature thatcould take the shape of a womanor animals. It was said that anyonewho saw one would run amok.And then there is the Hut, a gigan-tic, hairy creature with an enor-mous appetite. Male huts werebelieved to kidnap worldly women,whereas female huts would carryaway worldly men and marrythem. In this case try not to lookat a Pir Abok, and be aware of theHut not catching you!

371


Transport to and from Diyarbak›r usethe terminal in the Onüçmay›s quarterof yeniflehir (the new town). Vehiclesarriving in Mardin will make a circuitof the old town, dropping you in BirinciCad if you want, but if you are leavingMardin for Diyarbak›r you need tohead to the terminal. For Midyat andNusaybin, you can pick up a departingdolmufl from the depot in the easternpart of the old town, on the Nusaybin

road just after where Birinci Cad andYeni Yol meet. Dolmufles arriving fromMidyat and Nusaybin can drop you atthis depot on request, but willnormally drop passengers in at theterminal in the new town.

The airport is located between Mardinand Nusaybin, and is served by flightsfrom Ankara and ‹stanbul. Buses andtaxi run between the airport andthe city.

It is sensible to stay in the old town asmost of Mardin’s attractions are here,but note that outside summer it can bea pretty quiet place at night, with notmany cafés and restaurants open. Ifyou need to travel to the new town, usethe buses marked yeniflehir, which runeast along Birinci Cad and then doubleback to descend slowly into the plains.If you need to connect with a bus ordolmufl leaving Mardin from the newtown, catch the bus from the old townat least 45 minutes before yourtransport leaves.

The best place to stay in the old townis the Erdoba Hotel on Birinci Cad(0482 213 77 87, www.erdoba.com.tr),just a short distance east of the UluCami. The hotel is housed in asuperbly restored mansion that boastsall the best features of Mardinarchitecture, notably intricate crinkle-

cut stonework around all the windows.All rooms are comfortably furnished,with central heating and en-suite bath-rooms. They also have an excellentterrace restaurant that is beautifully litat night, and more rooms are availablein an annexe called Babil Kona¤›, a fewdoors further east along Birinci Cad.

Also worth considering is the HotelArtuklu Kervansaray on Birinci Cad(0482 213 73 53, www.artuklu.com)about 500m east of the Erdoba. It hasseveral classes of room, includingsome with vaulted ceilings, and it alsoboasts a good terrace restaurant withviews over the plains, as well as acouple of cafés.

Büyük Mardin Otel (482 213 10 47)located in Yeni Yol is another goodplace to stay in Mardin. It has 54rooms (one disable room) offer youwith a great view of the Mesopotamiaplains from its top roof balcony.Weekend live music, quality local foodand wine can be found there.

In the new city, the Hotel Bilen (0482212 55 68) is conveniently located onthe Diyarbak›r road just ten minutes’walk from the transport terminal. Thehotel is a modern block containingadequate rooms with TV andbathroom, and offers the usual buffetbreakfast.

Accommodation

Getting there

Mardin in the evening (24)

Mardin 373

Places to eat

A few minutes’ walk west ofCumhuriyet Meydan›, on the southside of Birinci Cad, is a restoredhouse that contains the Cercis MuratKona¤› (0482 213 68 41). It offers goodhouse wine and traditionalcuisine prepared bywomen chefs, as well asgood views over theplains. Also on thesouth side of BirinciCad but just east ofCumhuriyet Meydan› isthe Turistik EtLokantas›, whichserves the usual

assortment of food. There are twoleafy tea gardens just opposite thePTT where you can watch the sunsetacross the plains and enjoy a nargile.Finally, on Birinci Cad, Damak Sofras›

(0482 212 84 74) is a simple placeserving good Mardin fare such

as baba ghanouj(aubergine and tahini dip),kaburga (lamb ribs), örok(a type of köfte), stuffedvine leaves etc. You’ll findit next to the Kas›m

Tu¤maner Mosque.

A wide view of Mardin (26)

Local Syriac wine (25)

Mardin municipality: 0482 212 10 49 Tourist information: 0482 212 37 76

Motive from Mar Yakup- Nusaybin (27)


Deyrul Zafaran

Nestling in the hills east of Mardin isone of the most important monasteriesin the Tur Abdin region, DeyrulZafaran. It is said to have its origins ina citadel built in the 3rd century by theRomans on the foundations of atemple attributed to sun worshipperswho were the ancestors of SyrianOrthodox. A saint called Mor fileymunsubsequently converted the place intoa monastery, and the site is still some-times called Mor fileymun, though inthe 15th century it acquired its mostcommon name, Deyrul Zafaran, whichliterally means “Saffron Monastery” –perhaps because the yellow hue of itsstone resembles that of saffron. Theoldest parts of the monastery datefrom the 6th century, though by the 7thcentury it had already been partlyrebuilt by Mor Hanayo (St Ananias)after a period of decline, hence themonastery’s alternative name of MorHanayo.

Deyrul Zafaran has educatedphilosophers, bishops and poets overthe years, and its renown is such that

it has often been mentioned byhistorians and travellers. It also hasgreat significance as the seat of SyrianOrthodox patriarchate for 766 yearsuntil this was moved to Damascusin 1932.

Today the monastery appears to be inrestored health, and the stoneworkand chapels have been spruced up inrecent years thanks to funding fromthe Syrian Orthodox diaspora and anEU project. Indeed the first sight thatgreets you at the perimeter wall is thatof the new and somewhat incongruousgift shop and café. Within thecompound, grand steps lead up to thegrand facade of the main building,which you enter through a narrowpassageway containing a doorwaytopped with Syriac inscriptions.

Turn right once inside to visit theChurch of Beth Kadishe, also used as aburial chamber; it has a dome, aneast-facing apse and niches in thewalls containing graves. The saintswhose remains lie here were interredin a seated position. Note the use ofCorinthian columns together with an

Deyrul Zafaran from the rooftop (28)

Mardin 377

entablature (a decorative band follow-ing the walls and the curved arches)above, which derives from Greek andRoman temple architecture.

The main church, and highlight of themonastery, is to the north of BethKadishe. It is square in plan, with itsentrance in the west, an apse to theeast and a niche to the north andsouth, together representing a crossform. Note the similarity between thealtarpiece and a mihrab – aconsequence of centuries of culturalexchange between Christians andMuslims.

From the courtyard, various stairwaysallow you to head to the upper levelsof the building, which has walkwaysfrom where you can admire the belltowers and the immaculate ribbeddome at close quarters. The dome,which recalls those in Mardin, wasadded in 1884. The valley around themonastery has been planted withalmond trees, bringing some incometo monastery. High up in the valley youmight spot a large number of disusedhermits’ cells, dug into the rock.

The monastery is some 6km from oldMardin. You can get there by takingany “fiehir içi” (inner city) buses fromBirinci Cad to the terminal at theeastern outskirts of town, thencontinuing the remaining 4km on footalong the signposted road, whichwinds past the hamlet of Eskikale.Official visiting hours are from 9amuntil around noon and from 1.30pm to4.30pm, though people may be flexibleabout admission if you arrive at othertimes.

Deyrul Zafaran entrance door (29)

Deyrul Zafaran courtyard (30)

The Syrian Christian Community

It’s confusing to hear of the variouscommunities whose names includethe word “Syrian”, partly becausewe now think of that word as per-taining to the modern state ofSyria, and partly because we alsohear of “Assyrian Christians” fromtime to time.

In the context of Turkey, we alwaysspeak of the Syrian Christiancommunity (Süryani in Turkish),whose heartland is Mardin province.The majority of them are SyrianOrthodox (also known as Jacobites),a denomination which has its rootsin the Council of Chalcedon’sdecision in 451 in favour of Christhaving both a human and a divinenature. Baradaeus, who helpedestablish the Syrian Orthodox

church, was a monophysite,believing that Christ’s nature ispurely divine. The church’s liturgy isin Syriac, a Semitic language likeAramaic, Arabic and Hebrew,written from right to left. There isalso a Syrian Catholic church,established in 1872 as a breakawayfrom the Syrian Orthodox, and aSyrian Protestant community, whowere converted by American mis-sionaries in the 19th century.

There is also the Assyrian Christian(also called Nestorian) denomina-tion, whose adherents live in Iraqand Iran. Some Syrian Orthodoxhave started calling themselvesAssyrian, making a link with thistradition, though it is questionablewhether this is valid.

Mor Gabriel Monastery (Midyat) (31)

378

Tur Abdin

Midyat is the main town in theregion known as Tur Abdin, whichtranslates roughly as “mountain ofthe servants of God”. With itsmonasteries, churches, vineyardsand fertile soil, the area is the spiri-tual and cultural heartland of theSyrian Orthodox, and stretches fromthe Tigris through Midyat to theSyrian border. Of the several tens ofmonasteries here, the highlights areDeyrul Zafaran just outside Mardin(see p: 376) and Mor Gabriel(see p: 384), which is quite easilyreached from Midyat. If you havetime, consider also a visit to thesuperb An›tl› Virgin Mary Church(see p: 385).

Now that a great number of SyrianOrthodox have emigrated to thewest, the monasteries are muchdiminished in religious importancetoday, but funds remitted fromabroad are helping to keep themgoing and have allowed significantrestoration to take place.

If you have a particular interest inTur Abdin, you may want to takewith you a copy of From the HolyMountain by the British travel writerWilliam Dalrymple. Published in1997, the book focuses on thedecline of Christianity in the MiddleEast and includes several chaptersrecounting a journey made by theauthor from Urfa to Tur Abdin. Ofcourse this was a time of seriousKurdish unrest, which had theside-effect of making the SyrianOrthodox community feel very inse-cure, mistrusted by both the Turkishstate. Reading the book todaymakes evident how much thingshave improved since then, though itis also clear that the SyrianOrthodox community in easternTurkey still faces challenges if it is tothrive again. Another worthwhilebook for exploring the area is TurAbdin by Hans Hollerweger, pub-lished in 1999 and available in atrilingual Turkish, English andGerman edition at Mor Gabriel.

A Syriac writing in Mor Gabriel Monastery (32)

379

Just like Mardin, Midyat, 65km to theeast, is well known for its architecture.The houses here resemble those inMardin, with intricately decoratedstone facades, arches and windows,and indeed the stonework is as goodas any you will find elsewhere in theprovince. The town, and indeed thewhole district (population 56,340), isalso a mosaic of religions, languagesand traditions, settled by Arabs, Kurdsand Syrian Christians. The prayer callsfrom minarets and the pealing ofchurch bells mix here peacefully.

Midyat had a Christian majority at thestart of the last century and right upuntil the 1960s, but today the majorityis Muslim. Recently some SyrianOrthodox have been returning toTurkey, restoring their houses orbuilding new ones in the old style.

The district is also home to a commu-nity of Kurdish Yezidis (for informationon the Yezidis, see p: 324), whose mainvillage is Çay›rl› (Kefnas), 17km from

Midyat on the road to Mor Gabriel. Inthe 1990s many Yezidis immigrated toGermany, and some of their villageswere abandoned. Nowadays some ofthem are back, building new concretehouses in their home villages. OtherYezidi villages in the vicinity includeGüven (Bacin), Yenice (Xerabiya) andTaka (Taqa).

As in Mardin, the people of Midyattown are known for their telkari(see p: 364), and though the art is notas widespread as it once was, thereare still a few experts silversmiths inthe old Midyat Bazaar. Their hand-made silver jewellery makes populargifts. Midyat is also known for itsexcellent wines, made from thedelicious grapes of the region.

Midyat takes about an hour to reach bydolmufl from Mardin, and so is easilyvisited as a day-trip. If you want to visitMor Gabriel however, be aware that itwill probably take up most of the day,and that you should make an early


Interfaith in Midyat (33)

Midyat (Midyad)

Mardin / Midyat 381

start from Mardin. Arriving fromMardin, you are likely to pass throughthe Arab Neighbourhood of Estelbefore you end up in the centre itself.To the east is the old town, where aKurdish majority and Christianminority reside and where all thesights and churches are located.

The churches of oldMidyat

In the centralIfl›klar quarteryou will findseveral Syriacchurches.Mort Shmuni,next to theBelediyeOtogar›, datesback to the 9thcentury and is wherethe patriarch or arch-bishop used to pray while visitingMidyat. Icons on the wall depict theexecution in 164 of Mort Shmuni andher seven children by the EasternRoman Emperor Antiakos, because ofShmuni’s faith.

Behind the police station, the MorBarsavmo Church dates back to the5th century, but was renovated in 1910.

Women worshipped here in a spaceunder the mezzanine floor, reached bya nicely decorated door.

Mor Aksnoyo (also called MorPhiloxenos) Church, believed to havebeen built over the foundations of apagan temple in the 4th century, andregarded as one of the most churchesof its period. It was restored in 1960,

as with other major Syriacedifices, it has a large,

comfortable guesthouse,supported by remittancesfrom the diasporacommunity. You will findthe church next toNehrozlar Camii.

The above three churchesare Syrian Orthodox, but

there is also a SyrianProtestant church here, builtat the start of the last century.

It is now closed but the building is stillbeing looked after thanks to the SyrianOrthodox community.

Midyat Çevre Kültür Evi(Devlet Konukevi)

Behind the Protestant church is theMidyat Çevre Kültür Evi, whichtranslates as something like “Midyat

A cross sign from a church in Midyat (35)

Midyat Çevre Kültür Evi(Devlet Konukevi) (34)

environmental culture house”. Thistraditionally styled mansion wasrestored in 2000 by a foundation calledÇEKÜL in partnership with the localauthorities, and the results speak forthemselves: the stonework is simplydazzling, every facade, parapet andwindow boasting beautiful reliefs andcarvings. The house is also home to afilm studio, where period dramasabout the east of Turkey are made.The house was originally owned by aSyriac person whom donated thehouse to be used as cultural home.

Ulu Cami

Rectangular in plan, this stonemosque dates from 1800 and canaccommodate 1000 worshippers. Itonce had a dome but now has a flatroof after restorations, though insidethe ceiling is vaulted and beautifullyornamented with colourful vegetalmotifs. You will find the mosque in theEstel quarter.

Cevat Pafla Mosque

Constructed by Cevat Pafla in 1915,this mosque boasts 18 pillars and 12

arches, and a small central dome. Thewindows are surrounded with glossybluish stone. The cylindrical stoneminaret is decorated with plant andgeometrical motifs. The mosque is inthe Gölcük quarter, close to theSilversmiths’ Bazaar on the main roadto Cizre.

Mor Yakup Church

Mor Yakup is an important buildingwith distinctive architecture located inBar›fltepe (Selhê) village, 5km north-east of Midyat. The church was found-ed by Mor Yakup, who died in 421; itwas later rebuilt or largely restored,probably in the 6th century. Made oflimestone, the church exhibits a beau-tiful unity from outside. In the barrelvaults of the narthex and hall, note thedecorative use of brick to form linearpatterns. In the hall, the middleentrance to the sanctuary is accentu-ated by a round arch with entablature;the capitals of the columns depictacanthus leaves in a rather abstractfashion, as can also be found at DeyrulZafaran. Partly excavated structuresaround the site show that additions


Midyat Çevre Kültür Evi (Devlet Konukevi) (36)

were made to the building, possiblycomprising a monastery.

Mercimekliand Mor Loozor Monastery

In Mercimekli (Habisnas) village 6kmnorthwest of Midyat is the Mor Loozor(St Lazarus) monastery, on a hillamong olive and fig trees; it mightdate from as early as the 5th century.As the door is often locked, you mayhave to ask the village muhtar forassistance in visiting. Just after theentrance stretches a courtyard with alarge fig tree in the middle and a towerthat can be climbed if you take thethree flights of stairs. The tower in themiddle of the courtyard, called estunoin Syriac, is a seclusion tower formonks.

There is also a church in Mercimeklivillage devoted to Mor fiemun Zeytiwho gets his name from the fact thathe planted 12,000 olive trees (olive iszeytin in Turkish) in the area. The biblewith its special cover made of silver inthe church is worth seeing.

Mor Hadbsabo Church

In Gülgöze (Aynvert or Îwertê) village8km east of Midyat, Mor HadbsaboChurch is surrounded by thick walls.The church is charming though, asmall simple affair with two towers,one of which contains a room for reli-gious classes.

Mor Kiryakos Church

Mor Kiryakos is 13km east of Midyat inBa¤larbafl› (Arnas), which has beencompletely renovated and is open forworship. Kiryakos was killed in theyear 304 when he was just three yearsold along with his mother during thereign of Diocletian. If you visit, note thebeautiful ornamented bandsdecorating the arch of the apse at theeastern end, and the eighth-centuryscreen, taking the form of arches

across which a curtain was hung,separating the apse from the hall.

Mor ‹zozoel Church

The village of Alt›ntafl (Keferze), 15kmeast of Midyat, is home to the Mor‹zozoel Church. ‹zozoel was killed in304 during the anti-Christian persecu-tion instigated by the Roman EmperorDiocletian. Some sources say that theByzantine King Anastasius had thechurch constructed by two architectsnamed Theodore and Theodose in the5th or 6th century, who built sevenhuge churches in Tur Abdin. They alsoare thought to have built the MorKiryakos Church, which accounts forthe similarity between the twobuildings.

From outside the church is boxlike andone of the walls has an unusuallypattern of hexagonal marks in it. Thechurch was renovated after thecollapse of its roof in 1914 and isentered through a garden. Thecourtyard to the south of the church isthought to have been used forsummertime worship, while thechurch itself was used in winter.

Mardin / Midyat 383

Mor

Gab

riel

Mon

aste

ry(3

7)

Mor Gabriel Monastery (DeyrulUmur/Deyr-ul Emer)

Construction of Mor Gabriel wasinitiated by Mor Samuel and MorShemun in 397, possibly over the foun-dations of what had been a pagantemple. There are still some columnsdating from this period, but themonastery has been built upon andextended many times since. Today themonastery is clearly something of astandard bearer for the SyrianOrthodox community: first impressionsare of an almost impossibly well-keptcomplex, with pretty bell towers andsurrounded by fields of almond,pistachio and olive trees. Indeed thebuildings has been nicely renovated inrecent years by Kurdish workers, andaugmented with additions such aspilgrim accommodation. More impor-tantly, the monastery remains active inreligious work, and houses a small butnot insignificant community of monksand nuns. There are also likely to bevolunteers on hand to show youaround.

The main church of the monastery,also called the Anastasius Church, haswalls adorned with patterns of flowers,crosses, and geometric designs.However, it is not the oldest part of thecomplex: that is the church of theVirgin Mary lower down, which is olderby a century. This church is ratherplain to look at, though the vaultedceiling and arches are impressive.

More striking is the Dome of Theodora,which may once have been abaptistery, though what you willprobably remember is the fact that it isa tall, circular vaulted structure; infact, being here will make you feel likeyou’re trapped in a giant beehive.Circular whorls of brick in the roofseem to close in on a small hole rightat the top of the dome, which allowssunlight to stream in. Next door isanother vaulted building which mayonce have been a refectory.

The monastery also includes aso-called house of saints, essentially aburial chamber for various holy menover the years. A shallow hole in thestone floor here reveals some nonde-script dust inside, said to be theremains of St Gabriel himself. Thedust is sought after by local pilgrims,not only Syrian Orthodox, for its sup-posed miraculous properties.

When religious festivals occur, themonastery can be packed with SyrianOrthodox pilgrims, some of whomreturn from as far afield as the US andend up staying overnight in themonastery. It is worth checking to seeif your visit coincides with any festivals,as you may either want to try to takepart or to alter the date of your trip toavoid the crowd.

The monastery is 2km southeast ofGüngören (Keferbê) village, 22km fromMidyat. It is possible to get a Cizredolmufl to the start of the turning for


Inside of Mor Gabriel Monastery (38)

Mardin / Midyat 385

The four-star Matiat Hotel (0482462 59 20, www.matiat.com.tr) isa classy place with a large swim-ming pool, restaurants androoms with views of the pool orthe nearby hills. The hotel is 4kmfrom town on the Mardin road.

This beautiful Han located in Eski (Old)Kuyumcular Bazaar, Gelüflke Han› (0482 46414 42 www.midyatgeluskehani.net) convertedinto complex of restaurants, café and livemusic bar. Local food can be found in therestaurant which also has culturally decorat-ed rooms suitable for sitting on the floor.


the monastery, from where you willhave to walk around 4km to reach thesite. Official visiting hours are from9.30am to 11.30am and from 1pm to4.30pm.

Mor Estafanos Church

In Güngören (Keferbê) village hasnicely decorated church, dating backto the 5th century. The church has amihrab-like structure, called akduflkudflin (“Holy of holies”) in Syriac,with a fresco depicting Christ.

An›tl› Virgin Maryand Mor Sobo Churches

Located in An›tl› (Hah) village 25kmeast of Midyat is this amazing church,with some of the most intricate andattractive stonework you will see in theprovince. The building has a pre-Christian core dating to the 2ndcentury, and was converted into achurch in the early 4th century, whichmakes it one of the world’s very oldestsurviving churches. The adjoiningSyrian Orthodox monastery wasrevived in 2000 after having beingabandoned for some time.Architecturally it is reminiscent ofDeyrul Zafaran near Mardin, while theplan of the church is comparable tothat of Mor Yakup in Bar›fltepe (seep:382), including a narthex, a centralhall and a sanctuary with three rooms,the middle one of which forms theapse. The central brick dome has acubical exterior with many niches onits sides, and in the half-domes ofthese niches decorations appear con-taining pigeons and crosses. The

upper part of the dome and bell towerare 20th-century additions. Inside, theappearance of different types ofCorinthian capitals suggests somereuse of elements from earlierconstructions. Also note the brickornamentation in the barrel vault ofthe narthex.

Not far away are the ruins of the 6th-century Mor Sobo Church, in plan notunlike Mor Kiryakos and Mor ‹zozoelnearer to Midyat. As at the latter, theremains of a courtyard with an apsecan be seen; the half-dome of the apseis decorated with a cross.

To get here by public transport, take adolmufl to Ortaca (Hêfltirekê) villageand then another dolmufl for theremaining 5km to An›tl›.

Il›su Baths

Some 56km east of Midyat (andactually in the Dargeçit district, practi-cally on the border with Siirt province)are these sulphurous hot spring bathsin Il›su village (Germav). Named theBelk›s Baths, or sometimes Germav(meaning “hot water” in Kurdish) bysome locals, they were once visited bythe Ottoman Süleyman the Magnificentwho hoped to benefit from theircurative properties; the baths are saidto improve rheumatism and skinproblems. The baths are by the Tigrisand open from mid-May to mid-September. The newer building is formen and the other, older building isfor women. You will need to walk ashort distance along a narrow path toreach the site from the road.


Nusaybin (population 88,296) is avibrant border town giving a taste ofthe life and customs of the Kurds ofboth Turkey and Syria. Around 60kmsoutheast of Mardin, the city wasmentioned in Assyrian sources as(Nasibina) Naflipina, and in SyriacChristian records as Nsibin, whichmight have meant “land of vineyardsand gardens”.

There are no forests in the area now,but locals do talk about ancient forestsin the northern part of the region.According to one tale, young warriorshunted lions in these forests to extinc-tion, but this caused a problem forwarriors who had not yet killed a lion,as they were threatened with being putto death by the king if they did notachieve such a feat. Somehow thewarriors began turning on each other.The queen told the king that the killinghad to stop, as otherwise there would

be no one around to protect her andthe king. He responded by imprisoningthe warriors in an undergroundchamber and letting horses race abovethe chamber all night to scare them.Somehow it had the desired effect, andthe infighting ceased.

Wheat, cotton are the main products ofthe district, which also produces somecrude oil, taken to Batman for refining.The town has been an importantborder trade centre since Ankarasigned an agreement with France, whothen had the UN mandate for Syria, in1926. Nusaybin nowadays is also theroute for transportation of petroleumtrade with Iraq.

The town has a few historicalattractions, and its hinterland alsoholds several attractive prospects fortourists, including Mor Augin(Dêr Marogê) Monastery and theruined city of Dara.

Historical Columns (39)

Nusaybin (Nisêbîn)

A detail from Mor Yakup Church (40)

Mardin / Nusaybin 387

Mor Yakup Church

An austere-looking Syrian Orthodoxchurch dedicated to Mor Yakup(St Jacob) survives very near to ZeynelAbidin Mosque at the centre of thetown. Born in Nusaybin in 309, MorYakup became bishop of the city andwas buried in the basement here whenhe died in 338. The monastery is also

well known as the site of the School ofNisibis, a college of theology,philosophy and other subjects, takinghundreds of students. It was set uphere by Mor Yakup in the mid-4thcentury and lasted until the 7thcentury, though for most of the fifthcentury it was exiled to Urfa, while theSassanids held Nusaybin.

According to the tablet on the wall, thesouthern part of the church was builtin 359 for baptisms, and this mightexplain its atypical form, comprisingtwo adjacent naves with apses to theeast. The structure, which bears thecustomary rich decoration, was reno-vated in 1872 when a building for themetropolitan bishop was built. Themonastery has two naves separated bya wall which was installed afterwards.The apses have been decorated withplant motifs. Excavations made byMardin Museum in the recent yearshave discovered ruins along withtombs, a number of teaching roomsand houses. The surrounding area isdue to be declared as protectedtouristic area.

One of the district’smost famous sons is theKurdish intellectual,writer and politicianMusa Anter (Apê Musa),born in Eskima¤ara(Ziving) village in 1917.His mother, Fasla Anterwas the first femalemukhtar (village head

man) of Turkey. Graduating from ‹stanbul University’s law faculty, he wasin contact with major Kurdish intellectuals of the time. Throughout his lifehe worked tirelessly to promote the Kurdish literature, cultural and politi-cal rights, founding various publications, and spent many years in jail forhis pains. His life was tragically brought to an end when he was gunneddown in Diyarbak›r in 1992.

Musa Anter (Apê Musa)

More Yakup Church (42)

Musa Anter (41)


Zeynel Abidin Mosque

This square, single-storeyed, flat-roofed mosque is built fromrough stone, and housesimportant mausoleumsof Zeynel Abidin andhis sister Zeynep,who were related toProphet Muhammed.The mosque isthought to be Artukid,but some think it mayhave been part of MorYakup that was convertedinto a mosque.

The mosque is an important pilgrim-age site, and interestingly alsoincludes an all-female Quran course,in which both the instructors and stu-dents are women. There are also someattractive tombstones with beautifulIslamic calligraphy located behindthe Camii.

Mitanni Kültür Merkezi

This impressive newly culture centrebuildings on Lozan Cad in the Yeflilkentquarter houses some of the most beau-tiful stone art of the area. You can’tmiss the large stone Zoroastrian sym-bol at the entrance, which is believed todepict a fravashi (guardian spirit).

Old Barracks

In the K›flla quarter you will find theremains of what was once sub-

stantial military barracks, with two lionsculptures at the entrance. Built on

the orders of Diyarbakir GovernorHaf›z Mehmet Pasha, it had

more than 300 roomsand housed thou-

sands of troops dur-ing World War II, aswell as housing theHamidiye Brigadesestablished in the

late 19th century tokeep order among the

minorities of easternTurkey.

Nusaybin Station andthe German Railway Bridge

The Çelikyurt quarter of Nusaybin con-tains the last Turkish train stationbefore the railway enters Syria. Thestation was run by Germans, who builtthe railways (part of the famousBaghdad railway), until it was trans-ferred to the state railway company,TCDD, in 1948. The railway tracksthemselves run between Yenituran andAbdukadir Pafla districts, dividing thetown into two.

Another relic of German engineering isthe simple iron railway bridge built onstone supports and spanning Ça¤ça¤Creek. Unsurprisingly, it’s known as theGerman Bridge (Alman Köprüsü) and islocated in the Yeni Turan quarter.

Zeynel AbidinMosque (43)

Mintani Kültür Merkezi (44)


Historical columns

Also in the Yeni Turan quarter aresome interesting columns close to thegates of the border post with Syria. Theexact vintage of the columns is notknown, but stylistic considerationsmake it most likely that they areRoman. The area where the columnsare located is off-limits and was in factmined in 1956, so you will have to becontent with viewing them from adistance.

G›rnavaz

G›rnavaz, an archeologically importantmound, lies by the Ça¤ça¤ (Bûnisra)creek (though not near the partspanned by the German RailwayBridge) 4km from the centre ofNusaybin. Excavations done between1982 and 1991 indicate that the moundwas settled from around the 7thcentury BC until the 5th century BC.Four Assyrian inscriptions wereuncovered, one of which refers to agarden in “Nabula” – which is thusthought to be the likely name for themound at that time. It was also foundthat corpses were being buried hereaccording to some of the

Mesopotamian religious traditions, in aseated posture; the graves were thensealed after a fire was lit to dispel thesins of the deceased. Metal ornamentsand ceramic cups were amongartefacts found in the graves, some ofwhich can be viewed at Mardin’smuseum (see p: 358).

The mound is 25m high with a diameterof 350m. A Muslim graveyard on top of itdates back to 13th or 14th century.Local people actually believe thatchildren who are mentally challengedcan be cured by being kept here untilmidnight. The site is visited by MuslimKurds along with Yezidi Kurds as well asthe Syriac communities.

Kalecik (Bûnisra)

This ancient Christian village is located8km north of Nusaybin. The interestingthing about the place is that the stonehouses, some of which may be 200years old, sometimes have no doors atground level and are instead enteredby climbing a wooden ladder leading tothe roof. The village also includes theremains of a fortress and a number ofmanmade caves, now used to keeplivestock.

G›rnavaz from the sky (45)

Eskihisar (Marine) andMor Yoret (Dêr Çepkê)

It’s worth heading to the village ofEskihisar, 22km northeast ofNusaybin, on the way to the Mor Avginand Mor Yuhanon (Dêr Xirab)Monasteries. The village was onceoccupied mainly by the Syriaccommunity, who left behind manyattractive stone houses, an old bazaar,a church, a small mansion and a jailnearby, all surprisingly in good shape.

The substantial remains of a fortresscan also be seen high above the site,and is thought originally to have beenbuilt to guard an ancient Assyriansettlement called Merdis. What yousee now comprises Roman, Byzantineand more recent constructions,including a palace and cisterns. A locallegend has it that there were twosisters called Marin and Mardin, theformer living here while the other livedin Mardin Kalesi, supposedly namedafter her. Every night they communi-cated using fiery beacons lit at theirrespective fortresses.

Children from Kalecik village (46)

Door knock from Marine (48)

Ruins from Eskihisar (Marine) (47)



Leaving the village, drive 3km up thehill to the north (require walking fromthat point) and you will come acrossMor Yorte (also known as Dêr Çepkê),which is around the same as MorYuhanon. Now abandoned, themonastery remains attractive and inreasonable condition, as it was built ofhardwearing stone. A 50m-climb isrequired to reach the building.

Mor Augin Monastery(Dêr Marogê)

This much-visited monastery, alsocalled Dêr Marogê, clings to a steepescarpment on Mount ‹zlo, 7km northof Girmeli (Girêmîra) and 22km east ofNusaybin, but is surprisingly easy toreach as a newly built road will takeyou very close to the site. It is thoughtto have been built in the 3rd century byMor Augin – and 70 of his followersfrom Egypt. The monastery was subse-quently run by Nestorian and thenChaldean Christians, but has beenabandoned for some time (the lastperson to occupy it was a hermit whodied here in 1974 and is buried here).

There is one church in the south of thesite and another in the north. In theeast is a room in which Mor Augin, hissister and one of his students areburied. Elsewhere there are assort-ment of buildings, but what may lingerwith you most are the fantastic viewssouth over the Mesopotamian plains toSyria.

Mor Yuhanon Church(Dêr Xirabkê)

This church comprises severalbuildings on a rocky hillside 3km southof Mor Augin. The Mor Yuhanon(St John) who built it was a student ofMar Augin, and the church containsniches where Mor Yuhanon and hismother are buried.

Mor Augin Monastery (49)

Mor Augin Monastery from top (50)


Günyurdu (Morbobo/ Merbabê)Village

The old name of this village, on MountBagok 26km from Nusaybin and ashort way north of the Cizre road,derives from the presence of MorBobo, a church carved into the rockhere in the 6th or 7th century. MorBobo is said to have the leader of amonastery here between 569 and 628.There are two other churches here,one of which, Mor Aho, was recentlybuilt by locals, some of whom havebeen returning here after emigrating

to Europe. You will find this church inthe north of the village along with theother church, Mor fiemun.

Remnants of cisterns and towerssurvive from fortifications in thevicinity, among them Haytam Kalesi(built originally by the Byzantinegeneral Dimitrius in 351 and renovatedby Haytam in 972) and Kalat Cedide(“new fortress”), thought to have beenbuilt by the Byzantine EmperorConstantius II in the mid-4th centuryalong with cisterns and towers. On thetop of the mount lies the Mor AbrahamMonastery.

Beyaz Su (Ava Spî)

With a few open-air restaurants, thispopular picnic spot by a large streamis in Sivrice village, more or lessmidway between Midyat and Nusaybin.Ava Spî means “clear water” inKurdish, and the stream water isformed through the mixing of Ava Spî

Nature in Nusaybin (51)

Cave church in Günyurdu (Marbaba/Merbabê) (52)


itself with dark-coloured water calledAve Refl at a place called Diavê. Asever, the water crops up in a local tale,of a shepherd in neighbouring Batmanprovince who was playing his pipewhen he dropped it into the stream.The lost pipe was found in nearby AvaSpî, meaning that the water rues longway under the ground.

This site is extremely popular inweekends with people pouring in fromNusaybin, Mardin and as far asDiyarbak›r. There are benches placedover the waters of Ava Spî where youcan take seat, drink freshly made teaand enjoy the test fresh Barbecues.

Mor Melkê Monastery

This recently built monastery islocated in Üçköy (Sêderî), which is thelargest Syriac village in Turkey, 35kmnortheast of Nusaybin and about 20kmsouth of Midyat. Arriving there, you willprobably pass through Harabele

(Xerabêalê) village before continuing2km east to the monastery, which wasoriginally established by Mor Malkê inthe 4th or 5th century. What you seenow was built on the original founda-tions in 1995, and includes a basementcontaining the Virgin Mary Church.Mor Malkê and other priests are saidto be buried on the site, which also hasa religious school for children and anumber of resident monks and nuns.

Mor Melkê Monastery (53)


Sometimes called the Ephesus ofMesopotamia, Dara is the largesthistoric site in Mardin. It is located inthe small Kurdish village of O¤uz atthe start of a beautiful, fertile valley,midway between Mardin and Nusaybinand is clearly signposted. This ancientcity was built between 505 and 507 bythe Byzantines after they lost Nusaybinto the Persians in the fourth century.Dara was located at the boundarybetween the two empires and took onthe role of a military capital asopposed to the religious capital (Silvanat this time, founded in the firstquarter of the 5th century). During thePersian War (575–591) Dara and othercities were captured by the Persians,though Dara was soon handed backafter peace negotiations.

Some of the ruins of ancient Dara areon the left of the road as you enter thevillage while the rest is located at the

end of the village. Once upon a timethe settlement was surrounded by4km of walls with gates in the northand south and 28 tall towers, some ofwhich can still be seen. Churches,bazaars and cisterns lie among theruins, though detailed excavationshave yet to be undertaken althoughsome excavation has startedsince 1985.

The first part of the site you come to isbasically one large stone graveyard,the graves being small chamberscarved into the rock. For some reason,villagers refer to it as the “firstchurch”. Some of the graves areactually arranged neatly in rows up tothree storeys high; the bodies werelaid on stone slabs within thechambers.

As you enter the area you will see arock face with Christian reliefs and arelief depicting Azrael (the angel of

Dara (54)

Dara (Anastasiopolis)

Mardin / Dara 395

death) and the valley of the dead alsowith a tree and a house symbolising life.In the top right corner is a depiction ofthe hand of God. Below these large andmagnificent reliefs the entrance to acave-like hole can be seen.

As you follow the main road before youget to the village’s Kale quarter, besure to check out Dara’s cisternsystem, built to control the flow ofwater from seasonal rains and streamwithout compromising the city’sdefences. The system comprisesvarious pool-like depressions parallelto one another. One of the largest suchfeatures can be found near the southgate, where you will find eightchannels cut in the rock, each around6m deep. The flow of water wasregulated by a clever systemof sluice gates.

In the village there is also a 25m deepcistern underneath a private house

which someone had unwittingly builtover it. Any local should be able todirect you to the house if you want toview the cistern.

Historical cisterns (55)

Dungeon (56)


Located to the left of the road at thefar end of the village in the Taga Agiquarter is an underground storeroom,originally a cistern but commonlyreferred by villagers as a dungeon.Local children will guide you (and willexpect a small tip) around thechamber, which is well lit and hassteps you can walk down. Thechamber has a height of around 30m,empty but for a number of columns.Left of this cistern was a Byzantinechurch which was converted into amosque and madrasah during the

Artukid era. All that remains areChristian reliefs on a large rock, whichitself is said to have been aZoroastrian praying site at some stage.

Finally, in the valley of NewalaHamdunî, 1km northeast of the mainruins, are the ruins of a 20m-tallbarrage, built to protect the city fromfloods. To decrease the flow rate, thewater had been channelled into thecreek in the city through the loopholes.Thus the flood risk had beenminimised. The ruins of it can be seen.

Dara Ancient City (57)

The battle of Dara

The territory in the Dara area wasconsidered the best watered landin Mesopotamia thanks to thesophisticated irrigation systemwhich distributed water from thecreek in the valley where Daralay. The fact that water was notin short supply also contributedto making this a good candidatefor a power base. Dara was alsoof strategic importance becauseof its location on the borders ofByzantium and Persia. Thesefactors all led various rulers to tryto dominate Dara, and severalconflicts ensued.

The heaviest of these battles wasthat fought between theSassanids and Byzantines nearDara in 530. The PersianSassanids had been fighting withByzantines since 527. The

Sassanids King Kavadh was tryingto make peace, to which end hetried to persuade EmperorJustinian to adopt his sonKhosrau. This idea was rejected,and both sides then sent tens ofthousands to do battle over Dara.The Sassanids were numericallysuperior but not well armed,while the Byzantine commanderBelisarius was wily. He decided todig some ditches to stop thePersian cavalry while stationingmost of his infantry in one place,and concealing Hun andByzantine cavalry behind theditches. In the end many Persiansoldiers were trapped and killedas the Byzantines emergedvictorious; Khosrau and some ofthe Persians managed to ecape toNusaybin.

Remains from Dara Ancient City (58)

397


K›z›ltepe (population 127,148), 24kmsouthwest of Mardin city, is the mostdensely populated provincial town inMardin, having grown spectacularly inthe recent years, thanks partly tointernal displacement. As a crossingpoint for the Silk Road, K›z›ltepe was ofstrategic importance for trade. The cityhas been variously been calledDunays›r, Tell Ermen and Koçhisar,acquiring its present name in 1931when it became part of Mardin.

The first settlement here was in whatis now Haramhaddat village, 10kmsouth of the current town. The presentpolice station is said to be built on topof what is the oldest mound, dating tothe Chalcolithic Age (5000–3000 BC).

While agriculture – in particular theproduction of wheat, cotton, corn andlentils – still dominates the localeconomy, the presence of Mardinairport nearby and much of theprovince’s industry on theMardin–K›z›ltepe road has been ofsome benefit to the town. Society andpolitics are still very much dominatedby the tribes and their traditions.

Ulu Cami

Hidden away in the old town, this largeand beautiful building is regarded as amagnificent example of Artukid archi-tecture, and was built in 1204according to inscriptions. Also knownas Koçhisar or Dunays›r Mosque, it canhouse up to 2000 people.

Xurs Valley (59)

K›z›ltepe (Qoser)

K›z›ltepe Town (60)

Ulu Cami (61)

Mardin / K›z›ltepe 399

This magnificent assembly of reddishstone was restored in 2005. From theoutside you can see a portal in themiddle of the facade, with a lobedarch. To both sides there are threedoors and a mihrab (people alsoprayed here, hence the need formihrabs) containing inventive bandeddecoration. The mosque has a rectan-gular plan with three naves and adome over the mihrab, which spanstwo naves. The mihrab itself, with itshalf-dome with a shell design and alobed arch around it, is decorated withmany vegetal and geometrical motifsas well as calligraphy.

Dunays›r Bridge

Located in Koçhisar quarter behind theUlu Cami, this bridge is thought to becontemporaneous with the mosque. Itspans the Zergan (Gurs) Creek andwas once used by caravans. Only fivearches survived being plastered withcement recently.

Tell Ermen Church

A large Armenian church, believed todate from the 19th century, survives asa reminder of the town’s once thrivingArmenian community. The church,also called Surp Kevork, is mostly inreasonable condition, and is in KiliseCad in the Tepebafl› quarter. Thefamily whose house shares a courtyardwith the church will be happy to allowyou access to the site.

fiah Kulu Bey Türbesi

Located in fiah Kulu Cad is this tombis of a sixteenth-century local ruler,who was killed while returning from atrip to ‹stanbul to meet Süleyman theMagnificent.

Gire Harzem

Next to Girê Harzem, a tumulus 8kmnortheast of the town is the SheikhTaceddin El Arabi Madrasah, reachedby a three-arched stone Artukidbridge. Originally the madrasah had asquare plan, but this has been dilutedby assorted renovations, and todayonly side of the building still stands.The madrasah has a long narrowcourtyard, accessed through a barrel-vaulted entranceway, with a mosqueand tomb in the south of the courtyard.Inscriptions on the tomb’s entranceindicate that it was built in 1211 byTacettin Mesut Abdullah, who was theslave of the Artukid King MansurNasreddin Artukaslan. The adjacentminaret was built at the start of thiscentury. The tumulus itself is thoughtto conceal an Artukid winter palace,madrasah and mosque, which have notbeen excavated. The area is alsofamous for its good quality tobacco.

An incription from Tel Ermen Church (63)

fiah Kulu Bey Türbesi (62)


Maz›da¤› (population 10,297), some45km northwest of Mardin, takes itsname from the fact that it is located onflat ground surrounded by mountains.This area was located on the traderoute between Diyarbak›r andDamascus (Sham or fiam). Locals callthe area “Çiyayê Mazî” meaning “MaziMount” as there are plenty of thesetrees around. The area was a subdistrict of Savur and Derik until itbecame a district of Mardin in 1937.

The largest phosphate reserves inTurkey lie in the Maz›da¤› area. Aphosphate plant was established herein 1974 and provided a useful source ofemployment for many years, though ithas now closed following privatisation.Today the main economic activities areagriculture and livestock. Çemê Reflanand Reflan Valley near Maz›da¤› arehome to some historical sites as wellas well known fortresses such asDêrmetînan.

House of Ömer A¤a(Qesra Emer Axa)

A residence of a local a¤a or lord islocated on a hill in the Kayalar area,northwest of Maz›da¤› town centre.There are three buildings in all, withterraces and two storeys; the stonefacade of the main building has beenadorned in the same style as you canfind in Midyat and Mardin, though it isnot as richly decorated. The lowerfloors were once used as stables andaccommodation for caravans. One sec-tion has even been used as a prison.

Dêrmetinan Kalesi (64)

Maz›da¤› (fiemrex)

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5)

Mardin / Maz›da¤› 401

fiamrah Kalesi (Keleha Mazîdaxê)

The ruins of this fortress, variouslythought to be Byzantine, Roman orArtukid depending on who you believe,lie on a rocky hill 3km southwest oftown. There are rock tombs, caves,cisterns and rooms carved into therocks. Pretty mosaics cover some ofthe floors.

An extension to the fortress includes anatural cave divided into three levels,with three natural stone columns onone of them. It can be entered byclimbing a short but steep path.Around the fortress are vineyards and,to the north, transmitters belong tonational telecom.

Pi¤retap Türbesi

Located in Ömürlü (Piran) village 3 kmaway from Maz›da¤ town. It is believedthat the tomb belongs to a soldierfrom Islam armies who was killed hereat the war while promoting Islam inthe region. It’s busy with visitors espe-cially on Thursdays and Fridays whenthe tomb gets visit from large numberof people, some believe that Pir¤etapwill treat their diseases.

Ar›su Caravanserai

Ar›su (Gola Gulê) village, 15km north-west of Maz›da¤›, contains the ruins ofwhat was once an important cara-vanserai. The ceiling and vaultedentrance are decorated with plantmotifs. Just after the entrance lies afireplace. On the right, stairs lead upto a floor which was used as accom-modation, while above that is anotherfloor from where the road could bewatched over.

Sak›zl› (Bankir)

Sak›zl› (Bankir) village, some 20kmwest of Maz›da¤› town and around

fiamrah fortress (66)

Rock of King’s Daughter (67)

15km north of Derik, containshistorical remains in the UpperSisaban area of the Sisan quarter.Early Byzantine motifs and mythologi-cal scenes can be seen depicted infloor mosaics. The most remarkablepart of the ruins is the temple, on arectangular plan, with motifs ofcrosses on the wall. This was originallya Zoroastrian fire temple, though theByzantines added Christian symbolslater on, producing an interestingsynthesis of styles. Look out here forthe floor mosaic depicting a beardedman riding a horse, and animal motifson huge stones.

Ya¤mur (Avrihan)

Along with ancient caves, Ya¤murvillage, 8km south of Maz›da¤› town,contains many stone graves and tracesof settlements. These lie on the sameroute as fiamrah Kalesi andDêrmetînan (see below), possibly oneused by passing caravans. Amongthese remains you will find the Rock ofKing’s Daughter (Kevir Kezi),associated with a local legend: the girlin question was punished by her fatherby being tied by her long hair to a hugerock, which she had to carry around onher back. Today the impression left inthe rock is said to resemble the bodyof the girl.

Dêrmetînan Kalesi (KelehaMetîna)

The most important site in Maz›da¤› isthis fortress in Gümüflyuva(Dermetînan) village, 30km west ofMaz›da¤› and around 20km north ofDerik. The area has rich silverdeposits, and the structure was built toprotect these deposits as well as forthe more typical function of controllingtrade routes. The Mongols are said tohave faced stiff resistance when theytried to take the fortress. For locals,the place is known as where the heroLawikê Metînî, famous in Kurdishsong, lived.

The fortress, which has Byzantinecharacteristics, is on a 150m rocky hill.There are eight towers and onesmaller watchtower overlooking thewhole plain. The ruins of cisterns anda small church with one nave anddecorated with beautiful plant motifscan also be seen. These days localsuse the church as a hayloft.

Tattoos are popular inseveral parts of theprovince, especiallyamong local Kurdish andArab women and to alesser extent among oldermen. Regarded as bothdecorative and a symbolof tribal identity, theytend to be worn betweenthe eyebrows, on thelower lip, in middle ofchin and on the cheeks,and can take very diverseforms, including scorpi-ons, crescents, the sun,flowers and various linesand shapes. The inks forthe tattoos are tradition-ally made by mixing amother’s milk withsome ash.

Tattoos (Deq)


Tatt

oo(6

8)

Mardin / Maz›da¤› 403

The Tomb of Sultan fieyhmusand K›rk fountain (Çelkani)

For a relaxing excursion in the coun-tryside, you could visit the areacontaining the Tomb of Sultanfieyhmus (also known asSultan Musa) and thenearby K›rk Fountain,though in fact thepeople who arereally drawn to thetomb are womenwho are unable toconceive. If a womansubsequently has a childafter having made thepilgrimage here, it will be namedfieyhmus if a boy, or Sultan if a girl.Many people who visit will alsosacrifice a goat or sheep and give themeat away to others.

Fridays are the busiest day of theweek, when locals come not only to

visit the tomb but also to picnic by K›rkFountain. fieyhmus is believed to havelived in the 12th century and was astudent of the well-known teacher

Abdülkadir Geylani and local legendhas it that he caused water

to spring from theground whenever he

touched it with hisstick. A total of 40springs were thuscreated and sincethen locals call the

area Çelkani (“fortysprings” in Kurdish).

There is a fish restauranthere serving excellent fresh

grilled trout.

The tomb is just off theMardin–Diyarbak›r road, 20km fromMardin and 25km from Maz›da¤›.Dolmufls from Mardin can dropyou here.

Children from Maz›da¤ (70)

Sultanfieyhmus

Tomb (69)

Surrounded by mountains on threesides, Derik (population 19,535) issituated on rugged terrain whichslopes down to the south. The areahas been settled since ancient times,and excavations have uncovered cavescontaining Neolithic and Stone Agerelics in the town’s Tepeba¤ quarter,while gold and silver of Roman andByzantine vintage was found in theDermetînan area.

There are different stories concerningthe name of Derik town, which is some40km west of Mardin. The town is saidto have been founded when a bloodfeud arising from the killing of thetyrant lord called Ç›plak Haso (NakedHaso) in Diyarbakir caused two clansto migrate to the area in the late 14thcentury, and indeed two quarters stillbear the names of these clans: GareReze Dewid and Merga Keya. Othertheories say the name comes from theKurdish dirrik meaning “dense bush-es”, or that the name is a blend ofTerki (the name of a clan who settledhere). Some people also believe that,

as there was a small Armenian church(Der means church in Kurdish) in thetown that’s why the town is namedDerik. In 1874 the town was linkedadministratively to Diyarbak›r province,but it became part of Mardin in 1923.As with many other parts of easternTurkey, the town once had anArmenian majority.


Stone art from Derik (71)

Surp

Kev

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Chur

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(72)

Derik (Dêrik)

Derik is well known for its green olives(Xirxalî olives can be given asexample), and also produces grapes,figs and vegetables.

Surp Kevork Church (Dera Sor)

This rectangular Armenian church isone of the oldest churches in town andwas restored several years ago. Thechurch is usually closed, but thetown’s sole surviving Armenianresident, Kevork, will let you in; he canbe found in his blacksmith’s shop inCumhuriyet Meydan›.

The church houses a huge bell whichonce belonged to the church atDermetînan Kalesi. Also here are anantique bible in Armenian, dating backto the mid-14th century, a pleasantgarden and an old religious school.

Rabat Kalesi

This fortress is located in Hisaralt›(Rebet) village, 13km west of Derik,which requires a drive up a road toreach. Once there you will have to walkuphill for an hour to get to thefortress, but will be rewarded withsome good views.

The fortress dates back to the 4thcentury and has at various times beenunder the control of the Byzantines,Abbasids and Artukids. Not much isleft of the towers which the fortressonce boasted, but in the south andeast are some ruined tower-like struc-tures from the Artukid period. Alsosurviving are a Byzantine church andcisterns with irrigation channels.

Kasr› Kanco (Qesra Qenco)

This massive castle-like structure, theonly well-preserved building of its typein Mardin and Urfa, belongs to apowerful Kurdish family who exercisedsomething approaching royal authorityin Mardin province until 1970s. Thebuilding, which is not open to thepublic, is located in Atl› (Qesra Qenco)

village, 20km southwest of Derik town.From Mardin, you can head here byheading to K›z›ltepe, then continuingwest on the highway to Viranflehir andUrfa, turning left off the road some67km from Mardin; the castle liesabout 1km off the highway.

According to the inscription above thegate, it was built in 1705 and restoredin 1905 by Huseyne Qenco. Thebuilding’s original function wasdefensive, as it was not uncommon forlocal lords to attack each other’sterritory. The surrounding walls are300m long and nearly 1m thick, withgates to the north and west. Thebuilding itself has four storeys, andwatchtowers are positioned at the fourcorners of the structure. On thesecond floor is a room, currently usedfor storage, whose door is a 30cm-thick piece of basalt bearing Romaninscriptions that was removed fromruins the east of chateau.

Mardin / Derik 405

Rabat Kalesi (73)

Kasr› Kanco (Qesra Qenco) (74)

The peaceful town of Savur is located46km northeast of Mardin. The districtof which it is part has a population of8,942, many of whom belong to anArab tribe who claim descent from anephew of the Prophet Mohammed.The area is known for its walnuts andgrapes, and settlement here is thoughtto date right back to 4800 BC.Historically, the area was a zonewhere Anatolian and Mesopotamianstates clashed, and more recently hashad close ties with Diyarbak›r ratherthan Mardin, one demonstration ofwhich was when there was local oppo-sition to linking the area administra-tively to Mosul rather than Diyarbak›rduring Ottoman times. Locals say thename of the town derives from a Syriacword meaning “neck”.

If you do come here, you can’t fail tonotice Savur’s splendid stone houses,of which there are over 50. They aresimilar in style to buildings in oldMardin, and the quarter where thesehouses are located was declared an

area of historical value by the Ministryof Culture and Tourism in the 1980s.The facades of the houses have fewerdecorations compared to those ofMardin, but interestingly they remainin the hands of the families who builtthem, which is not the case for mostproperties of this type in the area.

Savur also has a small Byzantine-erahilltop fortress, from where the oldtrade routes stretching from theMardin plains to Hasankeyf throughMidyat could be monitored as thoughfrom an eyrie. Walls and towers stillsurvive.

Dereiçi (K›ll›t)

This village 5km east of Savur on theway to Midyat has its roots in anancient Syriac settlement. Even thoughlarge part of it has been abandoned,the village retains some nicely deco-rated houses and a minority of thevillagers is still Syriac-speaking.Surprisingly, the village also hasseveral churches and monasteries.


A view from Savur Town (75)

Savur (Stewr)

Best preserved of these is the MorYuhanon Church, which is still used forworship. It’s worth having a lookaround the churchyard, where thegraves feature beautiful Arabic andTurkish calligraphy. To the east of MorYuhanon lie a Syrian Catholic churchand a Syrian Protestant church, bothin ruins.

On a northern slope, 3km from thevillage centre, stretches the Mor AbayMonastery, built towards the end of the7th century. The monastery housed 60priests in the 13th century, but today itlies abandoned and in ruins. Nearbyare the Mor Sabay and Mor Dimetmonasteries, both abandoned thoughparts remain substantially intact. MorDimet was renovated by the bishop ofSavur in the 15th century, though its

precise age is unknown. Locals regarda pilgrimage here as beneficial forhealing various diseases, especiallyrheumatism.

Last but not least, Dereiçi is wellknown for its wines. If you fancy oftaking away a bottle or two, pay aquick visit to the village’s winery,which is on the main road on the wayout of the village if you’re headingtowards Mardin.

Baflkavak (Ahmedi) andHisarkaya Köyü Kalesi(Keleha Pozrefl)

Baflkavak village, 5km northwest ofSavur, has the only survivingcommunity laundry in the region,though it is no longer in use. Near asmall creek, it is a rectangular 19th-

century building into whichwater was channelled to be

heated up by fireplaceson two sides.

Mardin / Savur 407

In the upper part of town, Hac› Abdullah BeyKona¤› (0482 571 28 32) is a 19th-centurymansion, belonging to one of the well-knownfamilies of the area. It has now been sympa-thetically converted into a comfortable,attractive guesthouse. The wooden ceiling ofthe main reception room is sure to draw yourattention with the glass mosaic integrated atits centre. Good local food is also served here.

Accommodation

Dere

içi (

Mor

Yuh

anon

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(76)

Hac› Abdullah Bey Kona¤› (77)

Nowadays geese and ducks swimoutside.

Some 8km beyond Baflkavak isanother small village, Hisarkaya,whose Kurdish name happens totranslate as “black nose”. Built on thetop of high hill, the village is also thesite of a Roman fortress whichwatched over the Silk Road. Walls andtowers still stand, though as eversome parts have been cannibalised bythe villagers to build their houses.


Dereiçi Village (78)

Keleha Pozrefl (79)

Veysel Karani Mausoleum (1)

Siirt once stood on the frontierbetween the Roman Empire andPersia, and was ruled by both ofthese as well as the Byzantines(AD 135) and Sassanids (572). Theregion embraced Islam during theCaliphate of Omar (582–644),becoming an important commer-cial and cultural centre under theAbbasids. In the 13th century thearea came under Persian rule, butwas taken by the Ottomans in theaftermath of the Çald›ranWar (1514).

The population of the city today isa mixture of Arabs and Kurds. Theeconomy is mainly based on agri-culture and livestock. Sheep andgoats are farmed primarily forordinary wool and cashmere, andSiirt is well known for its blankets,woven by semi-nomadic tribes forcenturies and characterised bygeometric patterns and livelynatural colours. This area is alsovery well known for its Zivzig pome-granates, pistachios, walnuts andgrapes. Other well-regardedproducts are organic honey fromPervari, which is thought to havecurative properties, and b›tt›m soap,which is said to number PrinceCharles of the UK among its fans.This handmade soap is made from oilfrom the nuts of a pistachio treenamed terebinthe (Pistacia atlantica)and is meant to help combat hair lossand dandruff. Though the smell mightbe unpleasant at first, it contains nochemicals or additives andhas a unique history goingback thousands of yearsin Mesopotamia.Industry of a moremodern variety can befound in Kurtalan,which has a cementfactory employingsome people.

One of the highlights of theprovince is the mau-

soleum of Veysel Karaniin Ziyaret, whichis visited by thousandsof pilgrims each year.Ayd›nlar has a number

of attractive old houses,and also boasts the tombs

of ‹brahim Hakk›, the

Siirt 411


291,528 (2007)

Average altitude


DistrictsSiirt, Ayd›nlar, Baykan, Eruh,

Kurtalan, Pervari, fiirvan

EconomyAgriculture, Wool production,

Soap-making, Livestock


Batman (west), Bitlis (north), Van

(east), fi›rnak (south), Mardin

(southwest)

At aglance

Ulu Camii (2)

Siirt blanket (3)


renowned religious scholar andastronomer, and that of his master‹smail Fakirullah. Sa¤larca is themost popular of a number of hot-spring spas and, remarkably, isactually inside a cave, andthe ruins of Erzen nearKurtalan are also anotherimportant site. Also worthvisiting are the quaint, old-fashioned villages of Eruh,where you may well seewomen especially intraditional dress. Theprovince also has someold monasteries andchurches, though many are in poorcondition.

Siirt CitySiirt is a charming provincial city (pop-ulation 117,599) with a modern centreand a hilly topography. While Siirt’scity centre is a mixture of Arab andKurds, most of the inhabitants of thesurrounding districts are formed ofKurdish inhabitants. The Arabs of Siirtbelieve that they originally emigratedfrom Iraq.

Siirt has been home to many Islamicphilosophers and saints, which makesthe city one of the pilgrimage centres

in this part of Turkey, and you shouldmake a point of visiting the Seljuk Ulu

Cami and the Asakir Çarfl›Mosque.

Many houses in this regionwere built of locallymade gypsum, calledcas. Homes of this type,with domes and vaultsto minimise the needfor wood, can be foundin the older quarters ofthe city; however, due tothe fragility of thematerial, the buildings

must be rebuilt and refurbishedroughly every 25 years.

Thanks to the presence of the VeyselKarani Tomb in Ziyaret, Bayram festivi-ties in Siirt have a more celebratory airthan elsewhere. Another annual eventis the Tillo Science Day at the end ofSeptember, when the work of Siirtscholars such as Hakk› and Fakirullahis commemorated.

What comes to mind first with Siirt ishastily rushing Botan Stream and theBotan Valley with its deep canyons. Ifyou want to have a bird view sight ofthe stream, it is best to go up to thelocation called Ras›l Hacar (Tafl Bafl›),

Wedding from Siirt (4)

B›tt›m soap(5)

Siirt 413

at a distance of 5 km to the provincecentre. Don’t leave Siirt withoutenjoying this highly impressive view.

A special meat dish specific to Siirtand nearby regions is büryan (perive),young lamb lowered into a clay ovenlike a well and slow-cooked overnight.The büryan then taken out and hungup for sale in restaurants. A populardish, it’s not expensive and its mostardent fans have it for breakfast.

Ulu Cami

In the centre ofSiirt is this newlyrestoredmosque, regard-ed as one ofTurkey’s oldest. In1129 it was restoredby the Seljuk SultanMugiziddin Mahmut, and in 1260 anextension was built on the orders ofthe Seljuk Judge of Cizre, El Mucahid‹shak. In the 1930s the exquisite min-bar, one of the best-preserved exam-ples of Seljuk woodwork, was removedto the Ethnographical Museum inAnkara.

The prayer hall has three domes abovethe mihrab in the south wall. There are

two naves to the north of the prayerhall. A higher traversal aisle runs fromthe entrance in the north to the prayerhall, which has the effect of highlight-ing the route to the mosque. Another

striking feature is the beautiful blue-tiled minaret.

Asakir Çarfl› Mosque

This mosque in the centralUlus quarter was built in 1265by the Mardin Artukid ruler

Melik-us Salih Nasiruddin. Likethe Ulu Cami, the mosque origi-

nally had three domes, though latertwo more domes were added on thenorth side of the mosque. The portico,itself with four domes, which givesaccess to the mosque is probablyOttoman. Unfortunately, the impres-sive inscriptions of this monumentwere lost in 1951 during constructionof a new road (Cumhuriyet Cad). Nextdoor is the Mezopotamya Tea Gardenwhere you enjoy either tea orTurkish coffee.

Büryan (7)

A well-known local figure is singer Sertap Erener, born into a family ofYugoslavian and Arab origin. She has duetted with the famous Britishsinger Ricky Martin, the Greek songstress Mando and Jose Carreras, andwon the 2003 Eurovision Song Contest. She also covered the Bob Dylansong One More Cup of Coffee, used in the Hollywood movie Maskedand Anonymous. Another local personage is journalist Coflkun Aral,born into an Arab family. He achieved a news coup in 1980 with livereportage that including interviewing hijackers on board the TWA planein Beirut airport they had seized. It’s worth mentioning CumhurK›l›ço¤lu who has won number of prizes for his local newspaper thathas been published for almost 43 years. (for other famous people, seeTillo and fiirvan p: 423/429)

Some prominent people from Siirt

Tiles from Siirt Ulu Cami (6)


Cumhuriyet Camii

The date of construction and builder ofthis mosque are unknown, though itscurrent name dates from the 1920s. Atthat time a visiting Atatürk saw themosque in a poor state, and severalyears later, in 1929, a large dome wasadded to the building.

The mosque is located in within a resi-dential area in Ulus quarter. Originallyit was square in plan and had a singledome, but the addition of two domeshas meant the overall shape becomingrectangular. There is a historicfountain beside the mosque calledSuk’ul Ayn Çeflmesi.

Ayn Salip Fountain

Located in Bat› Mahallesiquarter, a poor neigh-bourhood of the northernpart of the city, the foun-tain is believed to havebeen built in Seljukidtimes. It is in poor condi-tion but is due for restora-tion and was once a vitalsource of drinking water.Once upon a time girlswould come to fetch waterfor home use and would

have a chance to glance at theiradmirers in their street, though onlyfrom a distance.

Eski Siirt Evi

This beautiful three-storey traditionalhouse was restored in 2006 and is fullyfurnished with antiques and oldfurniture. There are some fruit treesand a small decorative fountain in themiddle of courtyard. As with other tra-ditional houses here, the materialconsists of white stone covered withthe white plaster locally called cas.The plaster sets quickly, facilitatingthe construction of domes, but houseswhich use cas are more expensive andless hardy than their concretecounterparts, and so this style is indanger of disappearing. Managed bythe Siirt tourist office, the house isopen daily 8am to 6pm and is free tovisit. It’s located in Conkbay›r quarterof the city.

Clock Tower

This large clock tower is located oppo-site of the Hükümet Kona¤› (provincialhall). Originally there was a clocktower on this site built by AlaaddinPafla in 1905. A new clock tower wasbuilt in 1974–1975 and fitted with theold clock, which was in good condition.The replacement tower is domed anddivided into four sections, each with aclock face.

The Church of Deyri-Dara and Deyr MirYakup Monastery

According to the locals,this largely ruinedchurch covering some500 square meters wasan important religiouscentre that hosted cler-gymen from the neigh-bouring churches. Thesite is 3km from north ofSiirt city. The monastery,

Ayn Salip Fountain (9)

Asakir Çarfl› Mosque (8)

Siirt 415

mostly built of stone, consisted of achurch, library, cloisters, guest quar-ters and a refectory.

Sa¤larca (Billoris) Spa and theCave of Ekflili Sulu

Sa¤larca Spa is actually inside a cavenear Botan Stream, 15km away fromSiirt on the road to Eruh. The water,which is slightly acid, is comfortablywarm at 33–36°C, and is meant to beof benefit in treating rheumatism, skindiseases, gynaecological diseases andmuscle fatigue. The spa has cleanfacilities and reasonable prices.A second spring near the one whichnourishes the spa discharges directlyinto Botan Stream.

Opposite the spa is the Cave of EkfliliSulu. Some believe that the waterdripping from the cave’s ceiling canhelp curing renal diseases.

The pool is located in a large hallwhich has several men- and women-

changing rooms. The spa times shiftsbetween men and women severaltimes a day. Other facilities include atea garden and restaurant.

Nasreddin Bridge and Lif Spa

The bridge, though to have been builtby the Seljuks, spans the BotanStream near Lif Spa, 17km out on theroad from Siirt to Eruh. Unfortunatelywhat was once a bridge of five stonearches has been partly transformedinto a concrete-and-iron structure.

Near K›fllac›k (Lêfê) village, Lif Spa(Germava Lêfê) is at 41°C and takingthe waters is meant to help with arange of ailments similar to thosetackled by Sa¤larca Spa.

Mir Nasreddin Madrasah

Believed to be nearly 400 years old,Mir Nasreddin Madrasah is inKavaközü (Tanzî) village, 20km south ofSiirt city and 57km from Eruh, towardsGüçlükonak. The handiwork on thegraves is of particular beauty.

Getting there Accommodation

Besides the usualroad transportconnections, Siirtis served byAnkara flightsoperated byAtlas Jet.

Plenty of places servebüryani, for example AliBüryani Salonu (0484224 06 04) and HûnkarEt Lokantas› (0484 22328 70) in the city centre.


Places to eat

Eski Siirt Evi (Traditional Siirt house) (10)

Siirt has two hotels, thetwo-star Erdef inCumhuriyet Cad (0484 22310 81) and the Büyük inAyd›nlar Cad(0484 223 50 58).

Nasreddin Bridge (11)


On the railway line 30km west of Siirt,the small town of Kurtalan (population27,561) acquired its present namewhen the train station opened in 1945.The town is a lively place though itlacks historical sights. Interestingly,the town has a municipal park, BerfinYaflam Park›, for the use of women. Agroup of women rights activist was theprime movers behind the project. Asmost parks and cafés in the town werethe domain of single men, they wantedto give women a convivial public placeto meet one another.

Beykent Fortress

This castle is in the village of Beykent(Bêkend), 6km south of Kurtalan. Theconstruction materials, stone andbrick, suggest it was built during theByzantine era. Nowadays the fortressis in ruins.

The Ancient City of Erzen

The ruins of the medieval city of Erzencan be seen a little north of the

Besiri–Kurtalan road, on the borderline between Batman and Siirtprovinces, near the village of Yunuslarköyü (fiêx Ûnis) located 28km fromKurtalan. One of the biggest cities in

Bargaining at the animal Bazaar (12)

Kurtalan watch tower (13)

Kurtalan (Misirc)

Konakp›nar (Eynqesir)

Siirt/Kurtalan 417

the region during ancient times, andprobably to be identified with theancient city of Tigranokert, it wasrevitalised when it was under Arabcontrol. In the 16th century, it is said tohave had a Christian population of12,000. The site (open access) has onlyrecently been discovered, andexcavations should start soon.

Avuski Bridge

Outside Kurtalan, 30km away in thevillage of Bozhüyük (Teliba), thehistorical bridge of Avuski once stoodjust opposite the rail bridge. TheAvuski Bridge was destroyed duringthe 1990s conflict, but has beenreplaced with a structure in keepingwith the shape of the original.

In the village of Konakp›nar 5km fromKurtalan, on the way to Batman, is an oldmansion that is said to have been home toCemilê Çeto. He was the leader of thePencînar Tribe in the Garzan area, one of themost crowded areas in the region. The man-sion is still in good condition. In May 1920,Hüseyin Pafla, tribal leader of the H›dranl› inGarzan, was staying here when he issued acommuniqué of the Kurdish Rise Associationstating that Turkish National Forces shouldleave the area and a homeland to beestablished for Kurds. He, Cemilê Ceto andother tribal leaders briefly led an uprisingwhich was put down by the army. The famousAga, Cemilê Çeto, along with his four sons, were arrested andhanged.

Cemîlê Çeto’s house (14)

Land workers in Kurtalan (15)

Baykan (Hewêl)


Located on a plateau at altitude of1600m, Baykan (population 5,838) is47km northeast of Siirt and is nick-named Yeflil Baykan (Green Baykan)for its large forest of pine trees.Baykan is believed to have been underPersian rule in 550 BC. Alexander theGreat took over a great part of Anatoliain 332 BC, and after his death, thedistrict was occupied by the Seleucidsand later the Parthians, Romans andSassanids. In 927 the Byzantines tookthe area and it came under the rule ofPhilaretos, an Armenian king allied tothe Byzantine Empire.

Baykan once lay on the old Silk Roadand the roads here are still busy asthe area connects major roads fromIran and Syria to Ankara and ‹stanbul.At times it gets busy with large groupsof pilgrims pouring in to visit the tombof Veysel Karani, especially during Mayfor the Îna Gulane pilgrimage.

Dört Ulular (Çarpiran) Bridge

Located 3km east of Baykan town,spanning the Bitlis Stream, this stonebridge is believed to have been built inthe 16th or 17th centuries. Mostprobably part of the Silk Road, thebridge is 60m long and 4.4m wide.

Praying at Veysel Karani Mausoleum (16)

Dört Ulular Bridge (17)

Derzin Fortress (18)

Siirt/Baykan 419

Derzin Fortress

Derzin fortress, with its well-preservedwatch-towers, is near Adakale (Derzin)village, 8km east of Baykan. Built inthe Middle Ages or early Ottoman eraas the seat of a Kurdish Dynasty, it issometimes referred to as fiahkulu,after the name of an Alevi opponent ofthe Ottoman Empire. fiahkulu wasliving in a cave somewhere close toAntalya when he started to spread hisAlevi interpretation of the Koran,mostly among Turcoman tribes. Hesucceeded in convincing more than10,000 men to revolt against theOttoman Empire and to withhold taxes.He and his followers were confrontedby an Ottoman army and retreatedtowards Iran, during which they plun-dered a caravan sponsored by theSafavid Shah ‹smail. Furious, the Shahdespatched his own army, forcing thefollowers of fiahkulu to take refuge inthe fortress – hence the associationbetween the fortress and him whichcontinues to this day.

Veysel Karani Mausoleum(Turba Weysel Qaranî)

The holy mausoleum is located 8kmfrom Siirt city in the town of Ziyaret.Veysel Karani,whose originalname was Üveys BinAmir-i Kareni, isbelieved to have beenborn in Yemeni villageof Karen in Yemenaround 555. His fatherdied when he was fouryears old and he wasraised by his motherand never attended school. Eventuallyhe went to Medina in the hope of visit-ing the Prophet Mohammed, butMohammed was not at home. He tookAli’s side in the struggle that splitIslam in the mid-seventh century.During the conflict he was injured andlater was declared a martyr.

Three clan leaders wanted to transporthis body to their lands, claiming thathe was member of their clan. Alipromised to find a solution and it issaid that the following morning thethree clan leaders all saw his body ina coffin they were presented. So onecoffin was taken to Yemen, one toDamascus and one to Baykan (inciden-tally, in Iranian Kurdistan there is

another tomb alsobelieved to be that ofVeysel Karani). Hisdomed tomb inBaykan was con-structed with thelocal cas plaster in1901. The currentbuilding wasconstructed in1967 when the

former one collapsed. Thousands ofpilgrims arrive here each year on May16 and 17, the commemoration days ofVeysel Karani.

The town has plenty of small shopsand kebab restaurants. The only hotelis the Ziyaret Turistik Hotel(0484 565 25 09).

Ziyaret near Veysel Karani Mausoleum (19)

Veysel Karani Mausoleum (20)


The small town of Ayd›nlar (population1,930), just 10km northeast of Siirttown, is considered one of the holiestplaces in the province, home to a largenumber of old tombs and historicalreligious schools and mosques. It issaid that once upon a time, people sorespected the holiness of the placethat they used to take off their shoeswhen entering Ayd›nlar. The nameTillo, which means “small hill” inSyriac, other sources say it mean highspirits, was changed to Ayd›nlar in

1982 as part of Turkish governmentpolicy of altering the names of 28,000villages and towns. Besides Kurdish,Arabic is also spoken in Ayd›nlar,though its use may decline as theArabs have been migrating to the citiesof western Turkey. Unsurprisingly thetown has a conservative feel. Thechildren of the town take Koraniccourses in the mosques, the town’smadrasahs having been abolished bylaw in 1924.

Walking through the town’s narrowalleys you will see number of beautifulold houses and Abbaras (also seep: 359), some of which are built asarched passageways at street levelcalled sabatlar, which shaded peoplefrom the summer sun and used forcontacting the alley ways with oneanother. These homes have attractivewooden doorways and windows andboast calligraphy in Farsi and Arabicaround the window frames and abovethe doors. Some also have interestingdoor knockers, in some cases evenseparate ones for men and women to

‹brahim Hakk›’s Astronomi hill (21)

Ayd›nlar (Tillo)

Tillo house (22)

Siirt/Ayd›nlar 421

use; it is said that the door knockerwhich produced a deeper sound andlarger was the one meant for men.

On the way to Ayd›nlar you will comeacross a small village called Ba¤tepe(Halenze), which is home to the tombof Sheikh Mohammad Geylani (AH544–615), a descendent of SheikhAbdülkadir Geylani, a close friend of‹mam Ali. Abdülkadir Geylani is highlyregarded by the population of easternAnatolia and throughout all Kurdishregions and has many followers.

The tombs of ‹smail Fakirullahand ‹brahim Hakk›

On a hillside near the town centre isthe tomb of ‹smail Fakirullah, thegreat master ofSufism. Bornin 1657 in Tilo,he made thepilgrimageto Mecca atthe age of 48.Upon his

return, he had an accident that kepthim in an ecstatic state for eight years.After this experience, he dedicated hislife to spiritual guidance and taughtmany famous scholars, one of whomwas Mullah Mohammad Sorani, anancestor of Kurdish leader JalalTalabani, currently Iraq’s president.‹smail Fakirullah also wrote books,mostly in Arabic and Farsi. He died in1734 and was buried in Ayd›nlar.

When the master passed away, hisdevoted pupil ‹brahim Hakk›, pre-emi-nent astronomer of the time, built histomb and the tower next to it. ‹brahim

Hakk› was born in Erzurum in 1703and came to Ayd›nlar to study with

‹smail Fakirullah. As he wasa very talented boy and

showed excellenttalents inliterature,psychology,sociology,

medicine andastronomy, he

A view of Botan Stream(23)

fieyh Muhammet Türbesi (24)


was soon renowned throughout theworld. He was the first scholar toutilise European telescope in theframework of Islamic astronomy.Among his achievements, he is theauthor of a divan (anthology) written in1755; Marifetname, an encyclopaedia;and the ‹rfaniye, a book advocatingthat humans could achieve totalunderstanding of the divine and writtenin 1763 in Arabic, Farsi and Turkish.He died in Ayd›nlar at the age of 77.‹brahim Hakk› is buried at the foot ofhis master.

‹smail Fakirullah’s tomb, a domedoctagonal building, once boasted aremarkable optical phenomenoncourtesy of ‹brahim Hakk›, who had awall containing a window and a prismconstructed on a hilltop 3km east ofAyd›nlar. At the equinoxes (the springequinox, March 21, obviously has greatsignificance here, being the date ofNewroz- also see p: 248), when thesun crosses the equator and dayequals night, the prism would beamthe first rays of the rising sun acrossthe distance through a gap in theupper part of the mausoleum and ontoa mirror, which would illuminate thelength of the tomb of Hakk›’s mentor.‹brahim Hakk› famously asked, “Whatuse is the new year’s [Newroz’s] firstsunrise if it doesn’t illuminate mymaster’s bedside?” However, this con-trivance of Hakk›’s ceased to workafter restoration works in 1965, anddespite all efforts is still not functional.

Near the tomb is a local museum(daily 8am to 6pm) maintained by‹brahim Hakk›’s descendents andshowcasing his effects, includingastronomical instruments and severalhandwritten manuscripts.

The tombs of Sultan Memduhand Zemzem-il Hassa

Near ‹brahim Hakk›’s tomb is thegrave of Sultan Memduh, the grandson

of ‹smail Fakirullah and a student ofHakk›’s. He is the author of a divanwith 47,000 couplets. The tomb inwhich he is buried was actuallyconstructed for his son, who diedbefore him in 1830. Buried with him ishis wife Zemzem-il Hassa(1765–1852), who was the daughter ofSheikh Mustafa Fani. She was the firstwoman to become an Islamic saint inthe region.

The other tombs in Ayd›nlar are theones of Sheikh Hamza el Kebir, Sheikh‹brahim el Mücait, Sheikh Muhammedel Hazin. The former received hiseducation from Sheikh Osman in Iraqand returned back to Ayd›nlar wherehe was buried.

Places to stay

In the town centre is a guesthousefunded by an Islamic centre, TilloMisafirhanesi, where you can stay freeof charge for a few days.

‹smail Fakirullah Türbesi (25)

Famous scholars of Ayd›nlar

Besides ‹smail Fakirullah and‹brahim Hakk›, Ayd›nlar hasproduced a couple of otherfamous Islamic scholars, one ofwhom was Mele Xelîl, born in to aKurdish family in Gulpîk (part ofBitlis province) in 1754. He workedon fields such as Islamic law, theHadith and Koranic commentary.After qualifying as a lecturer hehelped with opening manymadrasahs. When he became asheikh of the Qadiri dervishes, hemoved to Ayd›nlar and becameknown as Mele Xelîlê Sêrtî. Hetaught the most important wellknown families of Kurdish regionssuch as the Bedirxanîs (see p: 474).Mele Xelîl wrote more than thirtybooks in Kurdish, Persian andArabic, of which Nehculenam isregarded as one of the most

important books in Kurdish litera-ture. He passed away aged 92.

Another well-known personagewho visited for religious reasonswas Mewlana Xalidê Bexdadî, bornin 1778 into the Baban Tribe inSehrezur town in Iraqi Kurdistan.He went to Damascus in 1805 enroute to the hajj, and shared partof his journey with the well-knownreligious scholar Evdilahê Dehlewî,who later tutored him in India.Mewlana Xalid became a Qadirisheikh and later the first sheikh ofthe Neqsibendi order in theKurdish regions, and played asignificant role in promoting theNeqsibendi order. He also wrote alarge number of books in Kurdish,Persian and Arabic in his short life(he died at the age of 49).

‹brahim Fakirullah’s room (26)

423


Eruh (population 9,450), 53km south-east of Siirt, lies at an altitude of1125m and is surrounded by highpeaks which are a continuation of theTaurus range. The town lay on the partof the Silk Road linking Cizre withMosul in Iraq. Its Kurdish name, Dihê,means “town made up of ten villages”.

Visit Eruh and you may sense theproximity of Iraq and Iranian Kurdishregions in the culture, food and music,as well as in the accent that comesthrough in the local Kurmanji.

The area is known for a traditional typeof clothing, flal û flapik, made of mohairfabric woven on hand looms (also seep: 499). It was mainly produced byArmenian villagers and productiondeclined after the Armenians wereforced to leave the region. Local kilimsmade from goat hair, mainly by youngwomen, are well known. According tosome elsewhere in the province, someof the more traditional people in theregion tend to be superstitious and

believe some manner of things to beunlucky, such as sweeping the houseafter sunset, bathing on Wednesdaynight, cutting your nails at night or on aFriday, looking in a mirror at night andso forth.

The old town of Eruh was locatedwhere the village of Bilgili (Nivila) isnow, twenty minutes from the moderntown. There you can visit a madrasah,most of whose classrooms arereasonably preserved, though thesleeping quarters have been destroyed.Further up there was a church, now

Wedding (27)

A local from Eruh (28)

Eruh (Dihê/Dih)

Siirt/Eruh 425

used to keep livestock. This was oncean Armenian town, though it is nowinhabited by Kurds. It is said thatDerwêfl A¤a, a Kurdish tribesman fromErbil (Hewlêr) in northern Iraq,expelled the Armenians because theydid not pay taxes owed to Cizre.Derwêfl A¤a received their lands as areward. Being already extremely rich,he constructed number of edificessuch as K›z›l Mosque (Red Mosque),bridges, hamams and madrasahs.

In addition to Bilgili’s madrasah, it ispossible to visit the 500-year-old MirNas›r Madrasah in the village ofKavaközü (Tanze) some 57km awayfrom the Eruh, and the H›sta ThermalSprings nearby in fi›rnak province(see p: 471).

Üzümlük (Paris)

Pass the main checkpoint between Siirtand Eruh and you will drive through abeautiful little village whose name waschanged to Üzümlük in 1963, though itwas once called Paris. As befits a placeof that name, it is well known for its

kahvehanes (cafés), and there is adecent fish restaurant near the river.You can stroll through the village tosee what remains of an old castle anda church.

Rug weaving (29)

Mir

Nas

›r M

adra

sah

(30)

Village of Paris (31)

Pervari (Xisxêr/Berwarî)


The history of Pervari (population6,607) goes all the way back to thePersian Empire, and as with mostancient places hereabouts it haschanged hands numerous times, com-ing under the control of the Seleucids,Parthians, Romans, Sassanids andArabs. In 927 it was taken by theByzantines, and the following centuryit was ruled by an Armenian princenamed Philateros.

The 90km drive here from Siirt willtake you through some pictur-

esque mountainous areas, withviews of beautiful valleys andwaterfalls, here is where thefamous Kurdish film director,Y›lmaz Güney (see p: 91),

filmed parts of his well knownfilm called Sürü in Çemê Karê

Plateau. Do expect some tightsecurity at the two main checkpointswhich are under the control ofJandarma forces. There was once amixed Kurdish and Armenian villagecalled Ekindüzü (Hartivina), just downfrom the checkpoint on your way toPervari. Locals may tell that the twocommunities were divided by thePervari road itself, which cuts throughthe middle of the village. Both commu-nities used to celebrate their festivalstogether until the Armenians wereforced to move out.

Walking through the narrow streets ofPervari, take a look at the old townjust behind the army base to see someoriginal Armenian houses which sur-

Fam

ous

Per

vari

hon

ey(3

3)

A child from Pervari (32)

Siirt/Pervari 427

prisingly are still standing. The last ofthese small Armenian communitiesleft the town about 20 years ago forEurope. Pervari’s organic honey isfamous throughout Turkey, so it is agood idea to buy some while visitingthe market. The town has a smallhostel if you have to stay the night.

Historical sites include the remains of

an old church, houses and cemetery in

Afla¤› Balc›lar (Malki) village, 20km

from Pervari, and the remains of a

church called Derya Burmi, 29km

south of town in the village of

Keskin (Burmî).

Village road near Pervari (34)

Valley in Pervari (35)

fiirvan (fiêrwan)


fiirvan (population 4,785), 25km awaynortheast of Siirt city, looks like alarge village. Old fiirvan, on the hilltop,still has a fair number of old houses,but the northern part of town is moremodern. The main street is where youwill find most of the shops andgovernment buildings. There is noaccommodation for visitors.

This was once a mixed Armenian andKurdish town, and if you walk down themain street and turn left uphill, you

will see the ruins of a small Armenianchurch, Deyr-i Dara Kilisesi. Accordingto locals, the church became amosque at one stage but this, too, fellinto disuse. Painted crosses on thewalls can still be seen. Other historicalsites include the remains of anotherchurch in the middle of the town andthe Salih Bey Türbesi in the south partof town.

‹run Fortress

‹run Fortress is situated 40km north offiirvan in the village of Cevizlik(Bombat) on a sharply peakedmountain, sealed off by a surroundingrange and difficult to reach. Tunnelswithin the mountainside connect thefortress to the foothills and the watersof the river there.

‹ncekaya (Kormas) Fortress

Leaving Siirt, you can drive 9kmtowards Pervari to the village of‹ncekaya (Kormas). Another formerlymixed Armenian and Kurdish village,this boasts the Byzantine-era Kormas

Shepherd (36)

A view from fiirvan (37)

Siirt/fiirvan 429

fortress on the top of hill. You mayneed to walk for around twentyminutes to reach the castle. The mainhall, north and south towers and someof its rooms are still in good condition.During the Ottoman era, the fortresswas used as a shelter for feudal lords(Derebeyleri).

‹ncekaya (Kormas) Fortress (38)

fiirvan Butterfly (39)

fiirvan is also home to mau-soleum of Salih Bey, the authorof a history of the Mirs (localKurdish leaders) of the area. Thework, written in 1770, is aninteresting and original descrip-tion of the socioeconomic andcultural aspects of the Kurdishbeyliks in the cities of fiirvan aswell as Cizre, Diyarbak›r, Bitlis,Mufl and Hakkari. The original ofthis document, handwritten inArabic, was given by Salih Bey’sgrandsons to the KurdishInstitute in Paris, where it isbeing translated into Kurdish(www.institutkurde.org/en/library/online/), the same bookhas been published by IstanbulKurdish Institute (www.ensti-tuyakurdi.org/ index.php)

Budako¤lu Salih Bey (Beg) Mausoleum

A local girl from Siirt (40)

‹hlasiye Madrasah (1)

The narrow gorge of the Bitlis Streamcontrols the only convenient routebetween upper Mesopotamia and thehighlands of the northeast. In the pastit was held by Kurdish lords of theRojki Dynasty, who ruled as vassals ofvarious Turkish Iranian overlords; theOttoman state rooted them out in the1840s. Much further back, the provincewas part of the Urartian Kingdom andcollapsed fortresses from that timeare not uncommon in the landscape.The earliest settlements in the regiondate back to the Neolithic Age. Fromthen on, the Urartians, Alexander theGreat, Persians, Assyrians, Byzantines,Seljuks, Eyyubids and finally theOttomans have been in charge. BeforeWorld War I, a sizeable portion of thepopulation was Armenian beforebecoming prominently Muslim.

As in other provinces of southeastTurkey, the economy is underde-veloped. The mountainous terrainhere lends itself to livestockfarming rather than agriculture,though there is an ongoing projectto create an organized industrialzone in Rahva Düzlü¤ü betweenTatvan and Bitlis.

For visitors, Bitlis is a delight in thatmass tourism has not yet arrived toravage the attractions. Surroundedby beautiful lakes and high hills, it isa tranquil place. The town itselfboasts the fascinating fierefiyeKülliyesi and the surroundings arerich enough with Urartian architectureand Muslim-era edifices, such as themassive ruined Elaman Han, to bevisited. The lakes in the largerprovince are of outstanding beauty andideal places for relaxing. The towns ofAhlat and Adilcevaz will probably catchyour curiosity with their culturalheritage; the former has an excellentarchaeological museum and a numberof amazing tombstones of historicalrulers, while the latter has yet more

ruins and Islamic monuments.Adilcevaz is also a base for trekking upMount Süphan, while the province isalso home to Mount Nemrut and acrater lake, with opportunities forskiing and waterskiing.

Bitlis 433

Bitlis City (2)


327,886 (2007)

Average altitude

1545mArea6706 square kilometers

DistrictsBitlis, Adilcevaz, Ahlat,

Güroymak, Hizan, Mutki, Tatvan

EconomyAgriculture, Livestock,

Farming, Tourism


Mufl (west), A¤r› (north), Van

(east), Siirt (south)

At aglance

Bitlis has been home to manynotable writers and intellectualssuch as Mewlana fiêx Îdrîs el-Hakîm,also known as Îdrîsê Bedlîsî, whowas born in Bitlis in 1452. Heworked as a clerk for the Akkoyunlu(White Sheep) Sultan Yakup in 1478and later worked as advisor to theOttoman Sultan Selim I, writing lotsof encomiums blessing Selim I dur-ing the conquest of Egypt.More importantly, hewrote an importantbook about the historyand workings of theOttoman Empire. Hismost important work,Heflt Bihîflt (EightParadises), consistsof about 80 thou-sand staves inPersian. Due to hisconnections, he hada lot influence onKurdish tribal leaders,and was then tasked by Selim withestablishing an administrative frame-work for autonomous Kurdish terri-tories, with the sultan recognizingthe authority of the beys locally. Hedied in 1520 in ‹stanbul.

Those who want to know some-thing on past history of theseregions and in particulars the Kurds;they for sure come across thefamous fierefname of fierefxanêBedlîsî. Also known as Sharaf al DinBitlisi, this great Kurdish Mir, writerand intellectual was born atKerherud (Gurhurûd) in Iran in 1543as son of fiemsedîn Xan (han) andthe daughter of Emîr Xan. When hereached the age of 9, ShahTahmasp (of Iran) brought fierefxanêto his castle and educated him.Some years later he met with PrinceBayezid, the son of Sultan Süleymanthe Magnificent, accepted Bayezid’soffer of working for the OttomanEmpire. He became a commander in1567 and after a few important suc-

cesses he also became the Mir ofTingabun and fiirvan. After death ofTahmasp in 1567, his successor‹smail nominated fieref as his under-secretary and the administrator ofmost local Kurdish tribes. In 1575,when fieref was at Nakhichevanserving as governor, he was askedto turn back to Bitlis with 400 of hismen as the Xan (a ruler) of that

region. In 1596 he wrote hisgreat tome in Persian with thename fierefname, the very firsthistory of the Kurds. He diedin 1599 (1604 also beenrecorded) was buried at hisfamily graveyard at

Gökmeydan Mosque.

Bitlis was also the home-town of the interestingpersonage of Zaro (Zoro)A¤a, who supposedlylived 150 years

(1774–1934), though accord-ing to his doctor he died aged 130.The old man worked as a docker in‹stanbul and became an object ofcuriosity; later he was invited to theUnited States so that he could beexamined by doctors. There are pic-tures of the old man posing withbeautiful young ladies during hisvisit to the USA. He is also famousto have been married over 25 times.

Besides these figures, we can alsomention William Saroyan, thoughnot born in Bitlis, son of anArmenian family that moved fromBitlis to the US. As a well-knownstory writer, Saroyan reflected thesufferings of migrant Armenian chil-dren in many of his works. He wasaccorded the Pulitzer Prize in 1939,which he refused to accept. TheUNESCO declared 2008 as the yearof William Saroyan.

For short bio of writer Seîdê Kurdî(Nursî) and foremost poet, philoso-pher of medieval Armenian, KrikorNaregatsi, see (p: 461/462).

fierefhan (fierefxan) (3)

Some prominent people from Bitlis

434

Bitlis City The city of Bitlis (population 43,359)sits at an altitude of 1500m west ofLake Van, with a historical core andmodern districts further east. The cityhas a dramatic setting in a gorge, afortress, plenty of medieval Islamicmonuments and a colourfulmarketplace.

Stone houses are typical of the city,designed to resist the long anddifficult winters. They typically havetwo storeys, with the ground floorused to house animals. The living areais centred on the stove, giving heat tothe kitchen and the rooms. The mostbeautiful of these houses are amongothers Müftüler Evi in ‹nönü District,‹sa Kalkan House in Mufltakbabadistrict and Yusuf Pafla Kona¤› inZeydan district.

Driving through the one way system inBitlis’s old city can be very challeng-

ing, it’s recommend you park your carnearby and take on the old city onfood. Most of the city’s historical sitesare near to one another. While thereyou may want to take an advantage ofpicking up some quality honey andcheese.

Bitlis Kalesi

Bitlis was a Kurdish stronghold in the19th century, and it is often referredto by historians, including EvliyaÇelebi in his Seyahatname of the 17thcentury, as the most civilised of theemirates in the region. The beautifulfortress, in the central Zeydan quar-ter, is well preserved and offers agood panorama over the town.

The fortress is believed to have beenbuilt by Alexander the Great’s com-mandant Badlis in 332 BC.Strategically located between twobranches of the Bitlis River, it waswalled in the 1530s. The double wallswere once 2800m long and hadvarious towers, some remnants ofwhich can still be seen on thesouthern side of the fortress. Theexterior walls were originally 30m talland 5m wide. Archaeological researchis going on in the inner fortress.

Bitlis 435

Bitlis Kalesi (4)

View of Bitlis (5)

Pafla Hamam›

Off Nur Cad. in the town centre, thisold hamam is close to the fortress andstill in use. It was originally built in1571 and reopened to public afterrecent renovations. The hamam is notdissimilar to others around thecountry. It originally had separate sec-

tions for men and women, butthe one for women, which

overlooked the river, did notsurvive. Today mornings

are reserved for menand afternoons forwomen.

Ulu Cami

Centrally located inGazibey quarter closeto the Bitlis Stream,this mosque has a

box-like prayerhall containinga restorationinscriptionfrom 1150,though it is not

known exactlywhat was present

before and whatwas added at thistime. The restora-tion of 1150 isbelieved to havebeen undertaken

on the orders of Ebu’l Muzaffer, thelast representative of Karahanl›larDynasty. The mosque was also reno-vated in 1651 according to an inscrip-tion. The mosque is built on a rectan-gular plan of regional Ahlat stone.Interestingly, the mihrab is extended tothe outside of the mosque with a domeat the top, in keeping with thedominant style in the region. Theminaret, added in 1492, offers aninteresting contrast with the plaininterior as it has been decorated withmotifs such as zigzags. The areanearby is packed with locals drinkingtea on the pavements.

Hac› Behiye Camii (Hacî Begîye)

Also in the Gazibey quarter, thismosque is part of a larger complex(külliye) that once included a hamamand a tomb dedicated to one Hac›Mehmet, though both have notsurvived. It is sometimes referred toas Gazi Begiye or Behiye Mosque. Thekülliye was started during Hac›Mehmet’s life and completed one yearafter his death, in 1544. It alsoincludes a separate mescit (smallmosque) at the southern end of theEski Çarfl› district, on the east side ofthe Bitlis Stream. Extremely simple indecoration, the mosque is built ofreddish brown stone and unfortunatelyis surrounded by recently construc-tions that overshadow its charms. Youwill find the mosque in the Rus Pazar›(literally “Russian bazaar”).

fierefiye Külliyesi

If you have time to visit only one placein Bitlis, it should definitely be fierefiyeKülliyesi in the central Mufltakbabaquarter, on the market square. Thesquare in front of the külliye is awayfrom the traffic so it makes a goodspot to rest a while. The külliyeincludes excellent, well-preserved16th- century mosque, madrasah, atomb and a hamam.


Pafla Hamam(6)

Ulu Cami (7)

In the south of the courtyard is theSerefiye Camii, built of fine stoneblocks, with corners and the entrancedoors covered by little domes. Thefinal prayer room is made of fivesections covered by five domes. Lookout the beautiful geometrical decora-tions on the entrance door. Next tothe entrance door of the mosque onthe east side of the courtyard is astone tomb which, according to theinscription, was built in 1533 by Emirfiemseddin for fieref Xan IV, a six-teenth-century Mir of Bitlis. Square inplan, the tomb has one storey coveredby pyramidal roof concealing a dome.

The madrasah is on the east side ofthe courtyard and has its own rectan-gular courtyard in the middle, thenorth and south sides of which havearched vaults. There are five rooms,covered with domes, to the east.

North of the mosque is an imaret,once was used as soup kitchen for thepoor. Made of stone blocks and redbricks, it has a central hall and aroom in each corner. There is also alittle pool in the hall, covered with anoctagonal dome.

In front of the mosque’s southern wallis a han or inn, made of stone blockswith a courtyard and rooms on twosides. The iwans to the north andsouth are covered with barrel vaultswhile the rooms east and west havedomes.

The stone hamam nearby (sometimesreferred to as Han Hamam›) inHatuniye Cad. is a beautiful exampleof traditional Turkish bath. The chang-ing room has a square plan and iscovered with a dome, while the hotsection has a central large dome.

Alemdar Camii

This mosque is also the tomb of theAyyubid Sultan Ensari’s brotherFeyzullah Ensari (also known as

Alemdar Pafla) and as such, it is quitea popular pilgrimage site. In theMufltakbaba quarter towards thesouthern part of the town, next toAlemdar Bridge, the mosque isbelieved to have been built by MaksutPafla in 1783/84 and is a two-storeybuilding with the tomb in the lowerfloor, with the prayer hall above. Theroof is simply made of earth. Recentrenovation beautifully managed torestore the original character of themosque.

Sultaniye Camii(Sheikh Garip Tomb)

In the town centre, located in Mufltak-baba quarter, look for Alamdar Sokakto discover this mosque built of stoneblocks in 1632 by one Had›m MehmetAga. The second floor is reserved forprayers while to the north are three

Bitlis 437

fierefiye Külliyesi (8)


rooms arranged one after the other:the one in the middle serves as atomb, covered with a barrel vault.

K›z›l Camii

On the road to ‹nönü quarter, thismosque gave its name to thesurrounding neighbourhood, namelythe K›z›l Mescit district. Built in 1507by Hüseyin, son of Aleaddin, themosque was renovated in 1864 by IbnKasim el Hac› Mehmet and is still inuse. It is built of stone blocks andoffers good views of the city, UluCami and the fortress. The prayerhall has kept much of its originality,compared to recent additions.

Bitlis Church

In the courtyard of the tobaccofactory in Bitlis city centre is achurch whose original name isunknown, though we known it wasbuilt in 1884–1885. Built of stoneblocks with a flat roof, it is now ruinedand desolate. The central nave wasbigger than the two to each side, andall three naves had barrel vaults. Toreach the site, take the road toYusufiye Madrasah until you will cometo the Herse quarter .You will need toget permission from the factorymanagement to visit the church.

Yusufiye Madrasah

It is thought that this religious schoolin the ‹nönü quarter was built by a

pious person named Hac› Yusuf in the17th century. A porch will lead you toan L-shaped building with five sec-tions. The classroom is the one rightnext to the entrance door and is fol-lowed by three cells. The madrasah,which also includes a mihrab, is in anuphill part of the ‹nönü quarter andcan be reached by taking a flehiriçi(inner city) dolmufl.

Gökmeydan Camii

In the Atatürk quarter, this two-storeymosque was built in 1801 and enlargedin 1924 after a visit by Atatürk, whoordered that there should be a minaretadded. The mosque is built of stoneblocks and has six domes, with an

east–west aisle on the lowerfloor. The decorations on the

mihrab are a later addition.It is here where fieref Xanê

Bedlîsî is buried with hisfamily in the adjacentgraveyard.

Gökmeydan› Camii (11)

K›z›l Camii (9)

A motif fromGökmeydan› Camii (10)

Bitlis 439

‹hlasiye Madrasah

This is a regular Seljuk-stylemadrasah built in 1589 by Emirfierefxan according to the inscriptions.Built of stone blocks and orientedeast–west, it has a rectangular court-yard covered by a dome. The vaultedrooms in the northern part of the courtare covered with earth. There are twomore vaulted rooms in the southernpart. The monument is supportedwith 4 towers at each corner. Themadrasah is located in theMahallebafl› quarter.

At the madrasah’s entrance is a smallshop selling traditional handmadeshoes called harik (xarik). There is alsoa tourist office here with brochuresabout the province. Opposite is a pleas-ant municipal tea garden. Near the‹hlasiye Madrasah is tomb of Sheikhfiemseddin Veli, built of stone blocks, itis in two parts, the larger of which issimilar to Seljuk tombs and also has aplan recalling a cross.

Sheikh Tahir-i Gürgi Tomb

This tomb, housing the corpses of notonly Tahir-i Gürgi but also

Hüsameddin-i Bitlisi, is located in asmall cemetery in the Zeydan quarter.According to the inscription above thegate of the cemetery, the tomb wasbuilt in 1664 by Abdül Han, in the nameof Sheikh Tahir-i Gürgi. The tomb is atwelve-sided construction with apyramidal roof.

Küfrevi Tomb

Opposite the K›z›l Camii is this tomb,one of the most beautiful tombs in thecity, built by a Greek craftsman ofSultan Abdülhamid. The tomb housesthe graves of six Sunni saints and is apopular pilgrimage site. The tomb ismade of stone blocks with rich reliefsand has four domes. The exterior wallsare on an octagonal plan; the interioris circular, you would need to ask forthe keys from the local Muhtar. Whileyou are in the locality take a few snapshot of the old but beautiful housesalong with narrow roads leading to thetomb.

Ethnography Museum

There have been many excavationworks in the province, with manyAssyrian and Urartian artifacts found.

‹hlasiye Madrasah (12)


Most of them can be seen in the AhlatMuseum, but Bitlis city has its ownethnography museum, housed in a19th-century governorate office, andopen daily from 8am to noon and1pm to 5pm. Address: EtnografyaMüzesi, Mahallebafl› (at the end of thedistrict), Bitlis.

Çiftkaya Ski Centre

The Çiftkaya ski centre, with fourpistes and a ski lift, is located in thecentre, in the Yükselifl quarter, andcan be reached by public bus or take ataxi. The ski season starts inNovember and ends in April;equipment can be hired here. The

resort is often called as Kamp E¤itimMerkezi, and there is a small hotel too(0434 226 87 55 or 0434 226 87 91).

De¤irmenalt› (Por)

The small village of De¤irmenalt› islocated some 9km northwest of thecity centre. The village has a very oldArmenian church (founded in the 5thor 6th century) and an amazingcollection of Armenian khatchkars.These memorial steles have intricatedecoration, dating from the 15thcenturies, showing the same kind ofcraftsmanship observable in theSelçuklu graveyard in Ahlat (p: 454).They are among the best preservedand most interesting khatchkars inTurkey. 2km from the village, there areruins of a second, monastical church.

The Han of El-Aman(Rahva/Rehwa)

This han is easy to locate 12 km awayfrom the city centre, at the intersectionbetween the roads to Tatvan and Mufland near the point where the BitlisGorge comes to an abrupt end on thelava field of Mount. The site, built by

Bitlis has good busconnections withneighbouring citiesin the region, andferries from Van (toTatvan). The near-est airports are inVan (68km) andMufl (83km).

The centrally locatedfiark Mermer Hotel inHarmantepe mevkii(0434 228 11 66), acrossfrom the Best SigaraFabrikas›, hasmountain views fromits rooms and tworestaurants. In thewinter you can alsostay at the DidebanHotel on Nur Cad(0434 226 28 20,didebanotel.com), 2kmfrom Çift Kaya SkiCentre and 20 km fromNemrut Crater.

The Befl MinareLokantas› (0434 226 3700) offers all kind ofkebabs as well as localcuisine (if pre-ordered)such as içli köfte andgirar. The restaurant islocated in the Kalealt›Bazaar. Well known forits büryan is theBüryanc› Azmi Ustan›nYeri restaurant inBal›kç›lar Cad, openfrom 6am until 3pm(0434 226 13 70).


Municaplity: 0434 226 59 00 Tourist information: 0434 226 53 02

Küfrevi Tomb (13)

Bitlis 441

the Ottoman governor of Van in 1562,is a massive ruin, as the originalcaravanserai measured 90m by 70m.More than 100 such caravanseraiswere built at convenient intervalsalong Anatolian highways by the Seljuksultans and to a lesser extent by theOttomans. Trade caravans wereaccommodated free as a publicservice, and the hans were fortifiedagainst attack and defended by aresident garrison

The building consists of one largecourtyard and five main parts, builtwith using dark stone. The writtensources have proved that the han wasrenovated by Murat the 4th.

The beautiful han was designed so thatit could host the caravanserai forwhich the place was particularlyattractive because of the frequent dev-astating storms in the region. Only 70years ago, you could still see horsesand even camels used for transport inthe region, but the han has been aban-doned for the last quarter of a century.

Renovations are planned to turn thehan into a hotel and some commercialpremises, including bars, restaurantsand a gallery to display of crafts.

Tobacco at Ar›da¤ (Kultik/Qultîk)

Some of the best tobacco in Turkeycan be bought in Ar›da¤ village, 18kmsoutheast of Bitlis city on the way toHizan. The whole of this area has areputation for growing the besttobacco thanks to the fertile soil andexperience in this field dating to pastgenerations. The village itself isarchitecturally striking, and was oncethe important Armenian settlement ofKhulting.

Ar›da¤ (Qutlîk ) Tobbaco (14)

The han of El Aman (15)


Tatvan town lies in the southwest cor-ner of Lake Van, some 25km northeastof Bitlis city. A natural harbour, Tatvantown was also an important transitpoint on the Silk Road and the district(population 55,033) is home to one ofthe largest caravanserais in Anatolia,as well as interesting historical ceme-teries. A reminder of this past impor-tance is the fact that the rail linkbetween western Turkey and Van pass-es through Tatvan, where passengerstake a ferry across the lake to Van.

Tatvan was once home to a 16th-century fortress whose remnants arethought to lie in the district ofÇa¤layan, right under the primaryschool’s foundations. It was probablybuilt in 1550 by Zal Pafla, one of SultanSüleyman’s men; legend says that theShah of Iran himself, Tahmasp,ordered its destruction after heconquered Adilcevaz and Ahlatfortresses. It could be that this thefortress has even older, Urartianorigins, and some historians claim thatpottery found in the Kale Tepe districtof Tatvan (where the ferry dock is),dates from 3000 BC.

The Tatvan Eastern Anatolia Fair(Tatvan Do¤u Anadolu Fuar›), held inlate June and July, is a big attractionfor hundreds of thousands of business-men and tourists. As a joint initiative ofthe municipality and the governorate,the first fair was organized in 1969;every year since then dozens of firmspresent their activities and this is alsoan occasion to promote folklore groupsand regional specialties.

Urartian Cemetery

As in many places around Lake Van,Tatvan has an Urartian cemetery, in theKale Tepe quarter nearby the ferrydock. What can be seen are twodistinct small rooms, at the entrance ofwhich are beautifully engraved stoneworks. Unfortunately, some treasurehunters made their way through thecemetery, and the many holes in thetomb are probably their handiwork.

Küçüksu (Kotum)

This village, 7km southeast of Tatvan,is home to the tomb of Abdullah binDerare, who arrived with the Islamarmies when he was already elderly,

Mount Nemrut and crater lake (16)

Tatvan (Tetwan)

Bitlis / Tatvan 443

and died here. The tomb is dug out ofrock and situated by a small mosque ofthe same name. The village also hastwo historical cemeteries on top of ahill overlooking the Tatvan–Hizanhighway. The first cemetery is situatedon a steep rock and contains manysarcophagi and gravestones lyingaround, mostly in the central andsouthern areas. The oldest sarcopha-gus dates back to 1173 according tothe inscription. The second cemetery,to the north, has 12 graves with bothheadstones and footstones; most ofthese are in ruins and have no inscrip-tions or decorations. A pilgrimage siteon a small hill nearby is visited bychildless couples in the hope that thisact will bring them offspring.

The Monastery of Goms

The Göllü Plain is separated from theLake of Van by just a small mountainrange. If you climb this mountain froma point somewhat west of the village ofÇanakdüzü (Komus), 48km from Tatvancentre, at the other side will await youa surprise. Down below, just at the

lakeside lies the ancient monastery ofSaint Gorge of Goms. This monasterystill partly surrounded by walls, datesfrom the 10th century. It wasabandoned in the first half of the19th century.

Dalda (Engesor) Cemetery

Around 10km west of Tatvan justbefore the village of Dalda (Engesor) isanother historical cemetery, reachedby the small pathway that leads to thevillage. There are 72 tombs here, 16

Urartian Cemetery (17)

Dalda (Engesor) Cemetery(18)

with tombstones, the rest beingsarcophagi. In the western part of thecemetery is the oldest tomb, with adecorated tombstone whose inscriptionmentions Ramadan, AH 723, corre-sponding to September in the year AD1323. To reach the site you will have topass through the village of Ça¤layan(Tu¤), where the ruins of a churchknown as Tu¤ Kilisesi can be found.

St George (Anania) Monastery

The 17th-century architecture of thismonastery, which used to serve as thecentre of the Karçkan Bishopric, iswhat distinguishes it from others in theregion. The place includes a littlechapel as well as a jamatun that wasadded later. The monastery wasoriginally surrounded by a thick, highwall with two towers on the southernside, both totally destroyed todaythough the walls are still intact. Thereis also a room behind which was oncethe priest’s residence, but nowadaysthe whole monastery is used forstorage by local people. The church islocated among houses in K›y›düzü(K›zwak) village, 10km from Tatvan onthe shores of Lake Van.

Tokaçl› (Kurtkan)

13km east of Tatvan in the village ofTokaçl› is a cemetery that is believed todate from the 15th century. There are28 graves and the oldest of the tomb-stones belongs to Asiye, daughter ofDavut and is dated 1438. The tomb-stones suggest that the cemetery wasused in 15th century. The tombsusually have tombstones but aremostly in ruins today. The village alsohas an interesting mosque, built in1685 and renovated in 1893. There is apraying area and a barrel-vaultedprayer hall divided by an aisleperpendicular to the mihrab.

‹ncekaya (Por)

Around 5km beyond Tokaçl› and at theend of the road is ‹ncekaya village,containing the tomb of Hüseyin Dedeand, next to it, the Hüsrev Pafla


‹ncekaya (por) Village (19)

St George (Anania) Monastery(20)

Bitlis / Tatvan 445

Mosque. Originally carved out of therocks, the mosque has lost its unique-ness somewhat as it has been coveredby plaster, a very common practicein Turkey.

Hüseyin Dede is believed to have livedbetween 1470 and 1550 and used toundergo periods of trial and sufferingin a retreat place he developed in therocks and accessible by a stairway.Hüseyin Dede was a good friend ofHüsrev Pafla (see p: 552), who gave himthe village as a present, where histomb located right next to the mosque.The tomb is composed of a prayerroom and a sleeping room, both ofwhich can be visited. Unsurprisingly,this is a pilgrimage site and localpeople do sometimes bring animalshere for sacrifice. The site is alsopopular for picnics andswimming.

To the right of the tomb are somecaves, some high up, which can beaccessed using ladders; nowadays thecaves are used for storage.

Mount Nemrut and Crater Lake

Not to be confused with theCommagene site near Ad›yaman, thisMount Nemrut (Nemrut Da¤›) is anextinct volcano 15km from Tatvan andalso reachable from Güroymak townvia Oduncular (Boryan) village. Theamazingly beautiful volcanic crater hasnot produced any lava for the past 1400years but earlier explosions gave birthto some five crater lakes fed withsnowmelt. In fact Lake Van itself wascreated when a huge volcanic explo-sion in prehistoric times blockedoutflow from the area.

Crater Lake (Krater Gölü) looks likesomething from a fairy tale. So¤uk Göl

Mt Nemrut and Crater lake (21)


is 600m above the level of Lake Van.Covering an area of 12 square kilome-tres, hidden between pinnacles, thelake is an ideal place for excursions aswell as for water sports. A stabilisedroad will get you over the rim and intothe crater, where there are two largelakes, one of them is called Il›k ther-mal. It is a short walk from the rim to

the highest point of the mountain,which offers a spectacular

view over both craterlakes and Lake Van.

There are numbers of cafes operatebeside either Crater Lake, plus a smallshop where good quality fish can bebought for grilling. The silence isoverwhelming after nightfall.

Tours here can be arranged in Tatvanand Bitlis. It is possible to charter aspeedboat and water-ski if you bringyour own gear.

Tatvan Skiing

Located some 10km northeast of townon your way to Nemrut Lakes. TheBitlis Çiftkaya Kayak Merkezi (Çiftkaya

Ski Centre) has four pistes andparking space.

The ski complex has excellentski pistes, it’s one of the best inTurkey, which has recentlybeen built by the municipality.The mountain has snow for upto five months a year, allowingthe facilities to stay open

Goms Monastery (22)

Tatvan Skiing (23)

Bitlis / Tatvan 447

almost half the year. The mountaintopoffers exceptional views over Tatvantown and Mount Süphan to the north.A ski festival takes place everyFebruary in the Tatvan facilities.

The Tomb of Abdülcelil Behtani

Abdülcelil Behtani came to the area asa proselytiser and built a madrasahand a small dervish lodge to spreadMuslim values. Upon his death, he wasburied next to the madrasah and thecomplex was supplemented by amosque. The tomb is a popular pil-grimage site, located near the lakeclose to the beautiful village of Yelkenli(Refladiye/Sorp) some 30km east ofTatvan. The surrounding area is popu-

lar for camping and weekend picnicsand offers sunset views.

Harmanl› Waterfalls

In the Göllü Plain (Axkîsa Golê), awaterfall appears in spring, and isworth making an excursion to see. Toget there, make your way to the smallvillage of Harmanl› village (Pînkas)46km east of Tatvan; the falls are just1km away from here. Once this waspart of an Armenian heartland, butnowadays the whole village ispopulated by several generations ofone large Kurdish family. The waterfallwas created when a tunnel was dug inthe 1950s to allow more precipitationto reach Lake Van.

Ferry transportation between Van-Tatvan (24)

Tatvan is a stop for busesheading around Lake Vanto and from Van city.Ferries to and from Vancity take at least 4 hoursand half and operate to aschedule that is linked torail departures, sincethey also take trainwagons.

The Kardelen Hotel iscentrally located nearthe municipalitybuilding and has apatisserie, snack barand various otherfacilities(0434 827 95 00,www.kardelenotel.com).

Alt›n fiifl Izgara Salonuon Cumhuriyet Cad(0434 827 76 90) offerskebabs, grills andother meals.


Güroymak (Norflîn/Norflên)

Güroymak (population 19,787), some30km north of Bitlis, takes its old nameÇukur (literally “hole”) from the factthat it is located in a plain surrounded

by two mountains. The district doesoffer some scenic beauty; there is oneespecially popular place called YeflilGöl, easily accessible by car one hour’sdrive southeast of town.

Interesting to visit are the Seljukidgraves indicating that the area wasinhabited during the 11th century. Infact, being on the Silk Road, the areawitnessed the passage of many civiliza-tions and the history of the town goesas far as the Hittite, who were the firstsettlers and were followed by theUrartu, Persians, Macedonians,Romans, Ottomans, Russians andOttomans again, up until modern timeswhen Güroymak became a townin 1988.

Kalender Baba Tomb andGüroymak Camii

As a pilgrimage place, the tomb ofKalender Baba (who is also calledKalendar A¤a) is easily reachable in thetown centre, in the Kümbet district. Thetwo-storey construction, built in 1299


Güroymak Hot Springs (25)

Kalender Baba Tomb (26)

and renovated in 1970, is large enoughto host a mescit (small mosque) andlooks conical from the outside. If youhave time to see the other tombs in theregion, such as fiirin Hatun-Bo¤atayAka and Alimo¤lu Tombs in Ahlat, youwill notice that they were all construct-ed following the same scheme.

Starting from the centre and headingfor the Kalendar Baba Tomb, you willsee the Güroymak Mosque, built in1898 according to inscriptions.

Red Graves in Afla¤›kolbafl›(Morx)

The southern part of Afla¤›kolbafl›village, 10km from Güroymak, containsinteresting red graves dating from the13th and 14th centuries. The tomb-stones are decorated with little daggersand sword motifs engraved in niches.

Güroymak (Çixor)Thermal Springs

These springs, 10km north ofGüroymak in Budakl› (Axacur) village,are little known and you are likely tohave to ask locals to show you the waythere. Slightly acidic and at a comfor-

table temperature of up to 39°C, thewater is recommended for rheumatismas well as digestive problems andneurological conditions. Of the threesprings, one is used exclusively bywomen, the other two by men. There isa fish restaurant nearby.

Bitlis/Güroymak 449

Red graves in Afla¤› kolbafl› (Morx) (27)

Cooking bread (28)

The lakeshore town of Ahlat, 60kmnortheast of Bitlis, is a welcomingplace that sprawls along a 5km-longmain street, Sanayi Cad, where localssit on small stools outside cafés andshops. Behind Ahlat town’s mainstreet are charming one and two-storey houses built of Ahlat stone–a soft volcanic stone that is easy towork– and almost buried in greenfoliage. Each house has a large gardenplanted mainly with apricot, cherry,walnut and plum trees, and surround-ed by a wall of the same stone.

A tale has it that when the city fell intothe hands of the Medes, the daughterof the defeated Urartian King Lat,started crying “Ah! Lat!”, giving thetown its name. In medieval Armeniantown was called Khlad, echoing theUrartian name for themselves. TheKhald established a kingdom aroundLake Van in the first half of the firstmillennium. Much later the town flour-ished under a succession of Muslimdynasties. For a while their rulers hadthe grand title “King of Armenia”,

although in fact they were of Arabicand later of Turkish origin. Ahlat wasdestroyed in a course of anOttoman–Persian war in 1549. SultanSüleyman the Magnificent built afortress at a new site 2 km north, butfailed to revive the city. The moderntown is of later vintage.

Ahlat is also famous for its handmadewalking sticks, the crafting of which ispassed down from father to son. Thesticks are made of walnut wood andhave handles taking the form of beau-tifully designed horse’s heads, bird’sheads etc.


Selçuklu Graveyard (29)

Ahlat Sticks (30)

Ahlat (Xelat)

The town offers many possibilities fornice picnics along the water, either atLake Van or the Nazik Lake furtheraway. If you pass through Ahlat insummer, don’t miss the Ahlat CultureFestival between 23 and 25 August. Itfeatures the usual concerts, folkdances and poetry readings, plus com-petitions to do with areas such ascrafts. On the second day people headto Mount Nemrut, with free buses laidon by the municipality.

Ahlat district (population 22,699) iswell known for its many cemeteries,making you feel that the bodies ofhundreds of ancestors from ancientcivilizations may lay right under yourfeet. Not only are the tombstones oftenrichly decorated with inscriptions, butthey are also extremely large, some-times 2m tall. The oldest of the tombsbelonging to rulers and notables datesfrom 1222, when Ahlat was held by theKurdish rulers of neighbouring Bitlis.Just about the only medieval dynastythat is not represented are the Seljuks,although the signpost of theDirectorate of Antiquities insists oncalling the Meydanl›k cemetery Seljuk.The tombstones are on the tentativelist of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Thousands of obelisks in rust-red tufastand slanting in a vast field just

outside town against the shores ofLake Van. Older tombstones from the18th century are carved with lace-likeprecision; recent ones are moreroughly fashioned.

Ahlat Sahil Kalesi

The Kale district is built around theinner part of the Ottoman fortressbegun by Süleyman the Magnificent

and completed by Selim II in 1568. Theoriginal fortress was probably builtduring Roman times and had threeiron gates and 13 towers. At the time,it could host 350 houses, a mosque, ahamam and many shops.

Today, most of the fortress is in ruins.The few ramparts and walls that stillstand are in private ownership and theonly possessions of the people wholive here are the vegetable and fruit

Bitlis / Ahlat 451

Sahil Kalesi (31)

Ahlat Beach (32)

gardens and two mosques where theycan go for Friday prayers.

Of Ahlat stone, the Kad› MahmutMosque can be found in the innerfortress and is thought to have namedafter the man who built it in 1584.Severely damaged during World War I,the mosque was totally abandonedbetween 1930 and 1940. It was nicelyrenovated in recent years and openedagain for worship in 1992; now itserves as a religious office. Built on aslope, the mosque is surrounded by acourtyard.

Also in the inner fortress, the ‹skenderPafla Camii was built by a local ruler,‹skender Pafla, in 1584, and is a typicalexample of Ottoman architecture. Themosque originally was part of a külliye,a religious complex also featuring ahamam, though that has beendestroyed. If you look carefully you willnotice a cemetery in the southern partof the mosque.

Kale Cemetery

This cemetery in the Kale quarterhosts Ottoman graves and is thus oneof the most recent examples of tomb-stone work in Ahlat. It started beingused after the battle of Çald›ran andwas completed at the time of SultanSüleyman. All the grave stones in this

cemetery are similar to each other.Most of them are depicted with birdand lace motifs. Most of the tomb-stones are engraved without particularcare.

‹skender Pafla Camii

The inscriptions at the entrance of thismosque, in the Kale quarter, claim itwas designed by Mimar Sinan himselfin 1584 during the second Persian,Ottoman, Iran war. It was last used forworship in the late 19th century beforebeing damaged during the Russianinvasion of World War I and finallyabandoned. The building is rectangularand has a single minaret.

Ahlat Museum

The museum displays archaeologicalartifacts from various civilizations plusethnographic items. It is particularlystrong on Seljuk remains, which theregion is littered with, including itemsfrom excavations of the hamam nearbyand the Ulu Cami. There are alsoitems from the necropolis some 15kmaway from the town, including 2nd-century BC ceramics. The museum iscentrally located and open daily(except Monday) from 8am to noon and1pm to 5pm.

Ulu Kümbet

In the ‹kikubbe quarter, the tombbetween the museum and the centralcemetery is referred to as Ulu Kümbet.With its masterful stonework and richdecorations, as well as its size (it hastwo storeys and is much larger thansimilar tombs), it is regarded as thegreatest tomb in the region and theperfect example of an Anatolianfunerary monument. The upper floor iswhere the corpse is housed, and it isbelieved that this is Sadi A¤a’s tomb.Although there is no inscription, it isbelieved that it was built between 1273and 1275 given the resemblances withthe nearby, minor Usta Tomb.


Keflifl Tomb (33)

Keflifl Tomb

This tomb, also in the ‹kikubbequarter, has no inscription giving anybackground on it, but is probably 14thcentury judging from its design. It is atwo-storey, 12-sided building with acircular interior and a conical roof. Thename keflifl translates as “priest”. Thetomb is in a private garden.

The Tomb of Emir Bay›nd›r

The tomb of Bay›nd›r Bey ibni Rüstem(d.1481), in the ‹kikubbe quarter nextto Meydanl›k cemetery, is a master-piece of architecture and stoneworkthat has become a symbol of Ahlat. Itwas constructed under the Akkoyunlusin 1477 at a time when Ahlat was acentre of knowledge and culture; theartisans and architects of Ahlat had aspecial gift, especially for tombs andcemeteries. With its cylindrical body,opened to the south with arches andcolumns, the tomb is quiet differentfrom other tombs in Ahlat. The inscrip-tions on the dome refer to Bay›nd›r’slife and qualities. Some art historiansclaim that there is only tomb compa-rable to this, and it is in Azerbaijan;both tombs are believed to have beenbuilt by an architect named Baba Can.One unusual aspect of the tomb is thatit is accompanied by a mescit, or smallmosque, to the north. Recently reno-vated, the mosque is believed to havebeen built by Bay›nd›r ibni Rüstem,while the basic-looking artwork is that

of Baba Can, a name that can be readon a white stone on the right side ofthe mosque.

Emir Ali tomb

Also in the ‹kikubbe quarter, this tombwas built at the start of the 14thcentury and belongs to the category ofAnatolian tombs with iwans. It has asquare base and a pyramidal roof andis entered by a large arched door. Thetomb was restored in 1951.

Çifte Hamam

The remains of what seem to be a“double” (çifte) hamam (with sectionsfor men and women) are to be found inthe ‹kikubbe district. The hamamprobably dates to the Seljuk era.

Double Tombs (Çifte Kümbetler)

According to the inscription on one ofthese tombs, they belong to the EmirBogatay Aka and his wife fiirin Hatunand also his son and his daughter inlaw, and date to 1281. Very wellpreserved, the two tombs in the‹kikubbe quarter are two-storeyconstructions with square floors andtwelve-sided upper sections toppedwith pyramidal roofs. Both tombs aremade up of blocks of reddish-brownstone and are decorated withgeometrical motifs. In the same field isthe Merkez Cemetery, where thetombstones are mostly destroyed.

Bitlis / Ahlat 453

The tomb of Emir Bay›nd›r (34)

Double Tombs (Çifte Kümbetler) (35)

Meydan Cemetery(Selçuklu Mezarl›¤›)

This historical cemetery, where over athousand souls lie buried, occupies theplain between ‹kikubbe and Harabefiehir (Taht›süleyman) quarter, and isthe biggest and the most importantcemetery in Ahlat. Many different kindsof gravestones dating back from the12th to the 16th century can be seenhere; especially noteworthy are thehuge rectangular gravestones andexcavated “tumulus”-style graves thatthe people of the region call akit. Thetombs bear the names of 28 differentartisans.

Hasan Padiflah Tomb

This substantial tomb of reddish-brown Ahlat stones sits on a slope andcan be spotted from any point in thesouth part of the Harabe fiehir quarterwhere it is located; there are regulardolmufls here from the centre. At19.5m in height, this is the secondbiggest tomb here and is quite similarto Ulu Kümbet; indeed it is supposed

to have been built by the samecraftsmen. According to the inscriptionabove the entrance, the tomb was builtfor Hasan A¤a in 1275. Theconstruction was renovated in 1971.The tomb is cylindrical, with twostoreys and a pyramidal roof. Theinterior is unadorned. It is accessibleby a door with steps to either side.

Taht-› Suleiman(Kara fieyh) Cemetery

Southwest of the Hasan PadiflahTomb, this cemetery has interestingtombstones dating from the 14thcentury, as well as an interestingsheep-head sculpture and a tumulus.Craftsmen named in some inscriptions


Emir Ali Tomb(36)

Meydanl›k Cemetery (37)

are also mentioned on tombstones inthe Meydanl›k Cemetery.

Emir Bay›nd›r Bridge

This footbridge over a stream flowingfrom the Harabe fiehir quarter to thelake is said to have been built byBay›nd›r Bey at the end of the 15thcentury. With a single arch, the bridgecomprises reddish-brown Ahlat stone.The bridge is between Harabe fiehirCamii and the tomb of Hasan Padiflah.

Seljuk Hamam

This hamam was excavated in 1975and probably dates to the 14th century.You can reach it 2km from the centralmarketplace, in the Harabe fiehirNeighbourhood. Only the hot room ofthe hamam was properly excavated.

Sheikh Necmeddin andErzen Hatun Tombs

Sheikh Necmeddin was a famousmystic living here in the first quarter of

the 13th century, and according to theinscriptions, his tomb was built in1222. It can be seen in the cemetery inthe Kay› quarter. Renovated in the1970s, the tomb is a square monumentwith a pyramidal roof. The choice of arectangular base distinguishes it fromother funeral monuments in the regionsuch as the more attractive ErzenHatun Tomb, next to it in the HavaiCemetery. According to the inscription,the tomb was built in 1396 for EmirAli’s daughter Erzen Hatun. The two-storey tomb is accessible through adoor in the southern part with steps toeither side. The construction has atwelve-sided shape and pyramidal rooffrom outside, however it is cylindricaland covered with a dome inside. Youcan see a small niche on each edge of12 sides. It was renovated in the 1960stogether with some other funerarymonuments in the province, and wasrenovated again in 2006.

Bitlis / Ahlat 455

Hasan Padiflah Tomb (39)

Selçuklu Hamam(38)

Abdurrahman Gazi Tomb

It is commonly believed thatAbdurrahman Gazi was one of thecompanions of the ProphetMuhammad, and thus his tomb is apopular pilgrimage site. In the Tunusquarter on a hill with views of townand lake, the tomb has a square plan,though the upper part is hexagonaland has a pyramidal roof. Note alsothe large vaulted window with beautifulornamentation. The tomb has beenrecently renovated.

K›rklar Cemetery

In the K›rklar quarter, this cemeteryhas some 13th- and 14th-centurytombstones. The smaller tombstonesare not sophisticated, but they bearinscriptions and have artistic value notonly because of their beauty butbecause they represent an art formthat is now defunct. There is one sar-cophagus in this cemetery whichcounts as one of the best decorated inall Ahlat’s cemeteries. Some of thepillar-shaped gravestones are actuallyshaped to resemble human bodies,with a head and shoulders discernible.

Nazik Lake

This snowmelt-fed lake is some 16kmnorthwest of Ahlat and is a pleasantplace to fish in spring and summer. Insummer, you can also try to swim tothe little island very close to the shore.In winter it freezes and provides anunforgettable sight; at this time peoplecross it on foot or in cars.


Abdurrahman Gazi Tomb (40)

Lake Nazik (41)

Bitlis / Adilcevaz 457

The attractive small town of Adilcevazlies close to Lake Van 85km northeastfrom Bitlis. The town still bears somescars from the passage of Russiantroops in the region between 1915 and1918. More significant as a relic is KefKalesi, one of several remnantsreflecting the fact that this was anUrartian stronghold in the 7th centuryBC. Adilcevaz district (popula-tion 24,727) will also makean impression with its lake-side beaches.

In Ottoman documents,the town is named asZatul Cevaz, meaning“walnut valley”, and ifyou are here at theright time (usuallyOctober), you canattend the WalnutFestival, at whichthe best walnuts are chosen andwomen cook meals containing walnutsand prepare walnut butter. As asouvenir, you may want to bring back a

traditional kilim made by one of thefour official ateliers.

Adilcevaz is a potential base fora trekking expedition up

Mount Süphan, which is bestclimbed between July andSeptember. The easternflank is the most popularapproach; you start your

trip from the village ofAyd›nlar and head upfor 6km until theSüphan Valley (2,500m)

where you can camp.From there, it should take youbetween 8 and 10 hours to reach thesummit (4,058m) and comeback to the base.

A view from Adilcevaz (42)

A View from Adilcevaz (43)

Walnut statue in Adilcevaz (44)

Adilcevaz (Elcewaz)

Besides Lake Van, the district is alsohome to the small Arin Lake, whosewater has the same peculiar composi-tion as that in Lake Van (hence itsTurkish name, Sodal› Göl). You will besurprised to find that you feelunusually buoyant in the water. Thelake is located in the north of thedistrict, 11km from town near MountSüphan and the village of Göldüzü(Arin). Much smaller is Ayg›r Lake,very pleasant with its waters 5m deep;the lake is 9km north of Adilcevaz andsouth of Mount Süphan.

Adilcevaz Kalesi

What remains of this fortress islocated on a steep hill around 200mwest of the town between the Orta andÇay›r quarters, near the beach. Builtof beautiful stone, it is believed to havebeen built by the Persian ShahTacettin Aliflan from Azerbaijan. It waslater renovated by Sultan Suleiman.The castle used to have 38 towers andhoused 70 households, ammunitioncellars, wheat storehouses and watercisterns. Legend says that Caliph Alispent a day in a cave in thecastle, supposedly validated by

horseshoe footprints in the wall. In thenortheast of the castle is a tumuluswhere Bronze Age items were foundtogether with Transcaucasian items.To reach the site, drive to theKaleboyu quarter, turn left intoYenicami Sokak and follow the steeproad. The town and Lake Van can beviewed from the top of the kale.

Ulu Cami (Zal Pafla Camii)

The ruins include an Ulu Cami, one ofthe oldest mosques in Adilcevaz rightin the shores of Lake Van, at theentrance of the town; it’s locatedbelow the castle. Usually referred toas Pafla Camii by the locals, it isbelieved that it was built during the16th century. Recently renovated in1965, the mosque is made of regularcut stone. The minaret is placed in thenortheast. The regular rectangularplan somehow gives place to a threeroomed prayer place covered alltogether by twelve domes. TheOttoman mosque, with its multi-dome


Adilcevaz Kalesi (45)

Bitlis / Adilcevaz 459

construction is a rare exam-ple of this kind of archi-tecture; it does stillused for religiousservice.

Kef Kalesi

Dominating a hilltop5km northwest ofAdilcevaz, this Urartianfortress was built duringthe reign of King Rusa II(c.685-645 BC) as an offering to GodHaldi. The fortress is similar in con-struction to the Urartian fortress inAyanis (see p: 559), and it is believedthat both were built up by the samepeople. Climbing the 550m hill willreward you with great lake views. Thetemple to Haldi is situated at thenorthern end at the highest point ofthe fortress. The blocks of stone havebeen beautifully worked by hand,especially the 7th century BC relief atthe entrance to the temple which is

now in Van’s museum, andis considered to be one

the finest examplesof Urartian art.

Just as impressiveis the dam 2kmnortheast of the

castle, built up toprovide for the water

needs on the inhabi-tants, and with dimen-

sions as great as 17m wide and57m long.

Zal Pafla Han

This small han, probably 16th century, ison the Bitlis-Adilcevaz-Erçis route andis reached from the village of Yolçati(Koxuz), 7km from Adilcevaz. Theentrance is in ruins but the back andsides can still be admired. Designed asa closed han, it is covered by a domeand was built by Zal Pafla. Localssometimes refer to it as Kohoz Han.

ZalPafla Camii (46)

ZalPafla Han (47)


The little hilly district of Hizan (popula-tion 11,205) has a certain beautythough the land is not well forested.The economy is based on livestockfarming though crops such as wheatand tobacco are grown in wheat plainsare available, and hazelnuts, walnutsand honey are also produced. Thehighest point of the district isAvaberhan (Avaberxan) (3103m), onceupon a time thousands of sheep wasfed in its plateaus. Generally thedistrict doesn’t have much contactwith the other districts.

Hizan became a district of Bitlisprovince in 1936. In the town of Hizan,50km southeast of Bitlis city, you willfind the Sheikh Hasan Camii in theEsentepe district. The present versiondates from a renovation in 1985; onlythe minaret is original, dating back tothe 19th century.

Yemifllik (Narek)

The village of Yemifllik, 6km from thetown centre on the final descent to thelake, was the site of the celebrated

monastery of Narek. This was whereGregory of Narek (Krikor Naregatsi,951–1003), the foremost poet ofmedieval Armenian, lived; unfortunate-ly few traces are left of the monastery,which was partly demolished in 1951.Krikor Naregatsi was also mysticalphilosopher and theologian, born intoa family of writers. Almost all of hislife he lived in the monasteries ofNarek where he taught at the monas-tic school. His poetry is deeply biblicaland is penetrated with images, themesand realities of sacred history, distin-guished with intimate, personalcharacter. The mystical poem "Book ofLamentations" published in 1673 hasbeen translated to many languagesand has played a significant role in thedevelopment of the Armenian literarylanguage.

S›rmaçek (Xeyda) Village(48)

Hizan (Xîzan)

A village in Hizan Town (49)

S›rmaçek (Gayda/Xeyda)

The remains of Hizan Kalesi can beseen 11km southeast of Hizan town inthe village of S›rmaçek, off the Hizanroad on the way to Bahçesaray. Thereis no indication of the age of thefortress.

Nazar Bridge

Also called Mezra Azê, this bridge is15km southeast of Hizan nearS›rmaçek village. When this bridgewas built is a matter of guesswork, butthe most recent renovation wasprobably during Ottoman times. Only afew bits of the bridge are still standing,and in fact the bridge was recently thevictim of treasure seekers, whodestroyed parts of it with dynamite.

Neresin Bridge (Pira Azê)

During the glory days of the Silk Road,caravanserais had to cross this bridgeon their way between Cizre, Siirt andBitlis. The bridge is close to theHizan–Pervari highway in the village ofOtluca (Çemê Karê), some 25km away

from Hizan. It is believed that the sin-gle-arched bridge was built during the18th century. Now a new bridge standsjust 300m away.

Monastery of the Cross (Aparank)

The tiny village of Kayas (Veras), on thesouthwestern slope of the P›nar(Vankin) Mountain (2925m), in theextreme southeast of the Hizandistrict, near the border with Siirt andVan, is a veritable open air museum.You will find here three churches anda fountain. The main attraction is theChurch of the Holy Cross, an impres-sive domed structure, which can beseen towering above the village fromfar away. The entrance to the

Bitlis / Hizan 461

S›rmaçek (Xeyda) Village (51)

The great writer Seîdê Kurdî(1873–1960) was originally from Hizan.Also referred to as Bediüzzaman, mean-ing “the best of his times”, he was also aleading cleric and for most of life his aimwas to open a madrasah in his area. Heargued that the people of the region had

great potential and that they could fulfil this better if they were edu-cated in Kurdish. He was in contact with Sultan Abdülhamid in the lastdays of the Ottoman Empire and also wanted Atatürk to found aKurdish-language university in the region. In 1925, he was accused ofbeing part of the Sheikh Said rebellion (see p: 139) and banished tosouthwest Turkey for several years. Although he tried to convince peo-ple that Islam can coexist with democracy, and fiercely opposed com-munism, he was seen as a threat by the intelligentsia. It is said that hewas buried in Urfa in the very same grave as the Prophet Abraham, buthis grave was desecrated by an unknown group who later buried himin an unknown place.

Seîdê Kurdî

Se›de kurd› (50)

rectangular-planned church, foundedin 983 is at the western side. Aninscription mentions a restoration in1629. The walls, built with truncatedstones are quite high; the church hasbeen covered with a single dome andcradle vaults, built by using red bricks.Next to St. Astuacacin there is a smallold church dedicated to St.John theBaptist, somewhat higher in the villagethere is a parish church from the 17thcentury. The fountain, not far from theHoly Cross Church, also dates fromthe 17th century.

To reach the monastic complex youhave to go down the main road fromHizan to Pervari (Siirt) and turn leftsome 10km south of Sa¤›nl› for thevillages of Döküktafl (Obin) and Kayafl.This makes for quite a day trip fromTatvan or Bitlis. South of Hizan thereare no restaurants and petrol stations.Erroneously, some guide books locatethe Aparank Monastery in Bahçesaraydistrict (Van province). That is becausebefore there were motorwaystravellers approached the place fromBahçesaray by horses or mules.

Also in S›rmaçek is the tomb of a celebrated Sufi saint, Sheikh Arvasi(Seyîd Sebxetullah/Xaws), is the successor of Seyîd Tahayê Nêhrî,father of Seyîd Ubeydulla who initiated the 1880s uprising and helpedre-establish spiritual authority in a time of chaos following the abolitionof the old Kurdish emirates (See p: 474-Hakkari). It is known that SeyîdTaha himself is the successor of Mewlana Xalidê Neqflîbendî, the latterbeing the successor of fiêx Ebdullahê Delhî. It is the location whereMewlana Xalidê fiehrezorî received the permission for the Neqflîbend›yêorder to spread it all over Kurdistan. Seyîd Sebxetullan/Xaws, also hav-ing some poems in Kurdish, left Miksê and settled in Xîzanê for somereasons not known. His descendants include several important figuresin today’s politics.

Seyîd Ubeydullah


Monastery of Cross (52)

The red madrasah (1)

fi›rnak 465

According to some sources,fi›rnak is so named as Noah’sark may have landed on MountCudi within the province; fl›rmeans “city” in Farsi and nakstands for Noah, so the fi›rnakmeans “city of Noah”. Othersources say that fler is “war” andnax is “refuser”, thus the combi-nation means “city of peace”.

The prehistory of the province hasnot been much researched, butrock paintings in the Pifltazerêarea of Beytüflflebap districtsuggest that the inhabitantsof the area wereinvolved in hunting,agriculture and live-stock farming – aspeople here still aretoday. Of the manycivilisations that havecome and gone in thispart of Turkey, oneunusual name stands out,namely the Gutis (orGudis), said to have been a group ofnomadic farmers who may have beenliving around central Zagros Range

and Mesopotamia. Residenthere several thousand yearsbefore Christ, they had analphabet of 29 letters, mayhave been the first peoples

to use coins and practiced aparticular way of constructing

wooden ships.

Some areas in the provincewere administrative capitals of somepowerful dynasties, including theGutis, whose capital was atBajar›karda what is located some 5km


416,001 (2007)

Average altitude


Districtsfi›rnak, Beytüflflebab, Cizre,

Güçlükonak, ‹dil, Silopi, Uludere

EconomyAgriculture, Livestock Farming,

Tourism, Oil and Coal-mining


Mardin (west), Siirt and Van (north),

Hakkari (east)

At aglance

Cudi Mt (2)

From Cizre museum (3)


away from the town of Silopi nearbyGirêçolya village, and the Marwanids,whose capital was Cizre. Much later,the Seljuks and Ottomans administrat-ed the region by creating what wereeffectively semi-autonomous emirates,ruled by Beys or Begs who werereferred to as Pafla by the Ottomans (ifthey were collaborating with theOttomans) and Mir by the Kurds.During the republican era a newadministrative body was established, inwhich fi›rnak was linked to Siirt, Cizre,‹dil and Silopi to Mardin, Uludere andBeytüflflebap to Hakkari. In 1990,fi›rnak was declared as an administra-tive province and above mentioned

districts, including Güçlükonak, werelinked to it.

The economy is mainly based on agri-culture and livestock breeding.Transport of goods traded betweenTurkey and Iraq is also a significantsector, as is coal-mining. Tribalstructures still have a strong effect onculture, tradition and customs, andpeople often socialise alongtribal lines.

Cizre undoubtedly has some of themost significant attractions in theprovince, with its old city walls and itsmonuments associated with keyfigures from Kurdish history, such asthe Red Madrasah (with the tomb ofthe poet Melayê Cizîrî close by); it alsohas a good museum of historical arte-facts. fi›rnak city has nice views ofMount Cudi but attractions are limitedto a couple of old mansions and a spa;there is another spa, with properfacilities, at the H›sta hot spring.Elsewhere, a vibrant Christian estab-lishment survives at the Virgin MaryChurch in ‹dil. As always, there are acouple of ruined old fortresses to seekout, such as Finik Kalesi inGüçlükonak district and Said BeyKalesi in Silopi.Old photo from Cizre (5)

Bedirxan family (4)

fi›rnak 467

fi›rnak CityA largely modern city (population54,302) on the slopes of Mount Cudi,fi›rnak has grown rapidly due to thepopulation displacements of the lasttwo decades. At theentrance of the town, alarge sign read“Welcome to the city ofNoah’’. Here is more like-ly to see some womenwear especially bright tra-ditional clothes decoratedwith sequins with some men wearKurdish traditional clothes and head-gears. The city centre offers you agreat photo spot for the beautifulMount Cudi and the huge elegantCeylan Mosque. There is a securitypresence here, but the policeand Jandarma have beenaround long enough thatthey feel part of nor-mal street life.

Abdurrahman A¤aMansion (QesraAxayê Sor)

Located in the centralGazipafla (‹smetpafla)quarter of town is this

nineteenth-century residence whichoriginally had one room for every dayof the year. The house was built ofyellow limestone, with roofs and floorsmade of wood and earth. Much of the

main building is inruins now, thoughsome of its stoneshave been used toconstruct modernhouse in what wasthe courtyard.Some substantial

walls, ornamented stone pillars andvaulted doorways still stand.

Osman A¤a Mansion(Qesra Osman Axa)

The Gazipafla quarter also contains themansion of Osman A¤a, built some 100

years ego with 70 rooms. Thetwo-storey house had a flat

roof covered with earth.Some pillars and yellowlimestone wallssurvive, the latterbearing some depic-tions of animals. Thesurviving rooms havevaulted doorways andare connected to oneanother.

Ceylan mosque and happy welcome from children (6)

The entrance of Abdurrahman mansion (8)

Osman A¤a mansion (7)


The main bus stationis just behind themunicipality buildingnear the city centre.Regular busesoperate from therevia Cizre to majorcities includingDiyarbak›r.

There are tworeasonable hotels onUludere Cad in theGazipafla quarter. TheMenekfle (0486 216 1902) has rooms with TV(some also havemountain views) and arestaurant wherebreakfast is served; theMurat is similar (0486216 28 57). fi›rnak alsohas an ö¤retmenevi onCumhuriyet Meydan›(0486 216 30 36) whichnot only has rooms butalso three suites; it’sopposite the Atatürk TeaGarden, and the roomshave good views ofMount Cudi and thehuge Ceylan Mosque.

The Sinan-2 Kafeterya onCumhuriyet Cad servestraditional local foods,including perde pilav› anddifferent sorts of kebab; awider range of fare isavailable at the Do¤anLezzet Sofra Salonu onUludere Cad.

Nasravan andBesta Meyremê Spas

Nasravan spa is 15km west of fi›rnakcity near the now vacated Kumçat›(Dêrgulê) village, which is on theMardin road.The spaincludes mudtreatments aswell as bathsand is said tobe curativefor skin con-ditions suchas eczemaand acne. Thevillage usedto be inhabited by Syriac Christiansand some ruins of a church can beseen by the spa.

Likewise offering mud baths andregular spring water treatments is the

Besta Meyremê Spa, 10km north ofBalveren (Gundikê Melê) village, whichis itself 10km east of fi›rnak city.Visiting is meant to benefit skin com-plaints, rheumatism and gynaecologi-

cal problems.The mud bathand water poolare fiveminutes’ walkapart; the floorof the latter iscovered withpebblesthrough whichwater wells upfrom under-neath. One of

the sources is cold and balances theheat of the others. The road to the spafrom the village is not well surfaced,so you will have to tolerate a bumpydrive or reach it on foot.


Getting there AccommodationPlaces to eat

Street Kebab (10)

Children from the region (9)

fi›rnak/Güçlükonak 469

Finik Kalesi (11)

The small town of Güçlükonak is 73kmwest of fi›rnak city as the crow flies,and is near the Tigris River. Thedistrict (population 3,724) is mostlyrugged and mountainous, other than inGüçlükonak town itself, which was partof Eruh district in Siirt before itbecame a district of fi›rnak province in1990. Livestock farming andagriculture, including the cultivation ofcereals and pulses, viniculture andbeekeeping, dominate the economy.Youths tend to migrate to the cities ofwestern Turkey to find seasonal workin the summer.

The ruins of Baaynas

The area known historically asBaaynas, includes the villages ofYar›mca (Awêna) and K›rka¤aç (Bênat),15km east of Güçlükonak at the start

of the 5km-long A¤aç valley along theTigris, where figs, grapes, pomegran-ates, apple and pears. The westernpart of the site is a hilly area calledSinuber, covered with pine trees. Thefoot of the hill is full of caves onceused as dwellings, which locals callOliyê fiêxa (“House of Sheikhs”); this iswhere the events told in thewell-known Kurdish saga Sîseban aresaid to have taken place.

The ruins include the Parthian House,a three-storey structure carved out of alarge white rock and including sleepingchambers and rooms for animals, andthe Gudi (or Guti) gate, said to havebeen built by one of the Guti emperors;part of it, a white vault, still stands onthe road from Akdizgin (Zeve; a fewkilometres south of K›rka¤aç) toYar›mca and K›rka¤aç village.

Hezaran Mosque

Close to Baaynas in Hezaran village,20km east of Güçlükonak town, is amosque carved into a huge rock thatcan house 1000 people. Built up duringthe time of the Gutis for religious

Güçlükonak (Basê)

Baaynas ruins (12)


ceremonies, it was converted into amosque after Islamic conquest. Themosque is located on Mount Gabaroverlooking the Tigris River.

Finik Kalesi (Keleha Finikê)

Near the village ofDamlarca (Kerafla),around 18km south-east of Güçlükonak(and some 22kmdistance northwest ofCizre) are the remainsof an ancient fortresson Mount Dêra, over-looking the Tigris andopposite the villagesof Düzova (Hoser) andHendekköy (Xendek).The site is signpostedclose to the mainroad, meaning you can parkand walk up.

The fortress, built by the Guti Empirearound 4000 BC and named Pinaka,included a rock palace, dungeon, stonehouses and a cistern 15m deep; asever, there was also a secret tunneldescending to the river. A woman isdepicted on a rock to the north while aking and princes appear on rocks tothe northeast.

A large rock in the western side of thesite looks from afar like a walledfortress. When you get closer, thegaps in the rock, large enough for aperson to be placed in, will remind youof a sign you saw on the road:

Timur’un Pençeleri,which roughly translatesas the “paws ofTamerlane”. It is said thatwhen Tamerlane’s forcesfaced a strong resistancefrom the fortress, Timurplaced his army on theother side of the Tigrisand aimed his artillery atthe fortress; the gaps inthe rocks are the relics ofthat bombardment.

During the Muslim era amadrasah was built nearby, and it sur-vives in reasonable condition today,

A view from Baaynass (13)

Hand writing from Melayê Cizîrî (15)

Hand writing from Melayê Cizîrî (14)

fi›rnak/Güçlükonak 471

near running spring water in a delight-ful leafy area within a valley; it’s sign-posted further on from the ruins. Thewell-known Kurdish poet FeqiyêTeyran (real name Mir Mihemed), bornin 1590, taught many students there. Awriter of pastoral poems, he is one ofthe great figures of Kurdish literatureand studied under the supervision ofMelayê Ciziri (see p: 478).

H›sta Hot Spring

This medicinal spa is located on thebanks of the Tigris near Dü¤ünyurdu(Hista) village, 10km northwest ofGüçlükonak. Driving here from Siirt,you pass the bridge over the BotanStream (signed Botan Köprüsü) andthen turn south and drive around 45kmto reach the site.

The spring was known as Belkis(Queen of Sheba), reflecting a connec-tion with the Prophet Süleyman(Solomon) and one of the pools is alsosaid to have had the footprint of theprophet in it. There are two other oldpools nearby used mainly by thelocals. The water, which cannot bedrunk as it contains some sediment,emerges from rocks at a sizzling 67°Cand pours from a height of 15m into

the pool; bathing in it is said to bebeneficial to rheumatic andgynaecological conditions, as well asto indisposed women in general.

The Belk›s Ana Termal Hotel here(0486 685 21 00) has four pools, twowithin the compound and another twonearby. All the rooms have river andmountain views as well as TV andother facilities. Linked to the hotel are30 two-bedroom guest apartmentswith bathroom and kitchen.

The madrasah where Feqiyê Teyran stayed (16)

H›sta hot spring (17)

Cizre (Cizîr/Gziro)


Cizre Belek tower (18)

Located on a plain on the banks of theTigris and with Mount Cudi (2089m) tothe northeast, Cizre town is 40kmsouthwest of fi›rnak city.The surrounding district(population 90,477)shares a long borderwith Syria. It’s said thatCizre was founded bythe Prophet Noah andhis sons. Having gotdisembarked from the arkat Mount Cudi after the flood,eight saints (including Noah) setup homes in “Hefltan” (the Placeof Eight in Kurdish), reusing woodfrom the ship for roofing; later theysettled in Cizre permanently.

During the Arab conquest a tributary ofTigris was drained to encircle the citywith water, hence the place was

named Cezire, meaning“island” in Arabic. To

honour the KurdishEmir fieref Han

(fierefxan), who took overthe town from theAkkoyunlus and held it

for thirty years, defeatingthe powerful army of fiah

‹smail three times, the city wascalled Ceziretufl fieref, meaning

“Honourable Cizre”. Later it wasknown as “Cizre Botan” means “theisland of Botan” after the emiratehere. In the past, Cizre has beenadministratively linked to Mosul innorthern Iraq, which was the capital ofthe Diyar Rabia province; in theRepublican era it became a district ofMardin province and finally part offi›rnak in 1990.

The modern town of Cizre has grownspectacularly over the last twodecades as a supply stop on thehighway connecting Kurdish northernA view from Cizre (20)

Cizredragons(19)

fi›rnak/Cizre 473

The tomb of Noah (21)

Iraq with the rest of the world. Thisborder trade through Habur Gate inSilopi district has caused the transportsector to develop, and many peopleown a commercial truck; the servicesector, including hotels and restau-rants, is also notable by its importancehere compared to in neighbouringregions. As always, agriculturecontributes significantly to the localeconomy, the main crops beingcereals, pulses, cotton, fruit andvegetables.

A dusty desert town a generation ago,the city is still short on greenery butnow has perhaps half a million people.The two main streets are alwaysthronged with men and some womenfrom the surrounding villages andquarters; hawkers are everywhere,noisily peddling candies, water, icecream and fresh produce.

The Mosque of Noah

Demolished and rebuilt in 1996, thismosque sits on a hill in the Da¤kap›quarter, above the floodwater level ofthe Tigris, and contains a sarcophagus

in which the body of the Prophet Noahhimself is said to lie. The mosque alsocontains the tomb of Kurdish scholar‹smail Ebul-iz.

Ulu Cami

Located in the central Da¤kap› quarter,Cizre’s Ulu Cami was converted from achurch in 639, it gone through restora-

Cizre Ulu Cami (22)

Cizre was the capital of a pow-erful emirate, Botan, from the14th century until the middle ofthe 19th century. The emiratecomprised three parts, the mostimportant being Cizre itself,while the other two containedthe fortresses of Gurkel inUludere and Finik inGüçlükonak. Under BedirxanBeg (Bedirhan Bey) in particular,the city experienced a shortperiod of glory, and Bedirxanand his descendants werefounders of modern Kurdishnationalism as well as, interest-ingly, suppliers of several promi-nent ideologues of modernTurkish nationalism.

Bedirxan Beg (1802–1868/1870)or Mîr Bedirxan or BedirxanBegê Mîrê Botan, to give himhis full title, was born at Cizrein 1802 as the son of EvdilahXan (Ebdalhan/ Abdullah Han),and became Mir when he was18 years old. He declared him-self the only independent powerin the region, published money

bearing his name and told theimams to read their Friday dec-larations in his name of him for12 years. According to someresearchers he even had hisown flag on the top of CizreKalesi, declaring Cizre as thecapital of his country.

Revolting against the centralOttoman government in 1839,Bedirxan Beg conquered a largearea around Cizre, stretching toMosul in Iraq and the Persianborder. He was contacted byBritish and American missionar-ies in 1846, who found that hewas not intending to breakcompletely with the Ottomans,and thereafter they got in touchwith local Nestorian Christianswho were hoping for deliver-ance from Muslim domination.This gave the NestorianChristians new politicalinfluence that they did not havebefore, which irritated theKurds. When the Nestoriansstopped paying their annualtribute, Bedirxan’s forces killed

A Cizre Dynasty

Bedirxan Family (23)

474

some of them in response to arequest from the Mir ofHakkari to punish them. TheBritish and French exercisedpressure on the Ottomans topunish Bedirxan Beg, who thesame time was bidding forKurdish independent power.He was defeated in a bloodywar and sent into exile in ‹stan-bul and then Crete with hisfamily members. After 10 yearshe was pardoned by SultanAbdülmecit and returned backto ‹stanbul. He finally went toDamascus, where he is buriedin the Salihiye district; on histombstone appears:

‘El-FatiheMîrê Cizîra BotanMîr Bedirxanê AzîzanRehmeta Xwedê li ser wî û liser malbata wî bit’Whistle forLord of Cizîra BotanLord Bedirxan of Azîzan May God bless him and hisfamily.

Is written on his gravestone.

One of his grandsons wasCeladet Alî Bedirxan(1893–1951), born in ‹stanbulin 1893. His father, Emîn AlîBedirxan, had a passion to pre-serve Kurdish culture, lan-guage, literature and employedtutors from his home town(Cizre) so that his childrencould be taught at home.During World War I, he fought

as an army officer at CaucasusFront. Because of his politicalviews, he was exiled toGermany in 1922 along withhis brother Kamûran AlîBedirxan; here he receivedmaster’s degree. From here hewent to Egypt and then Syria,where he passed away; he isburied in Damascus.

Celadet Alî Bedirxan createdthe Latin Kurdish alphabet thatis being used by mostKurmanji-speaking Kurds inTurkey, and more recently inSyria and parts of IraqiKurdistan; he, his brother andcollaborator Roger Lesscot alsohad a great input on Kurdishgrammar. During his life timehe published the first Kurdishmagazines (in Latin Kurdishalphabet) Hawar and Ronahi,compiled dictionaries andwrote lots of articles andpoems. Some of his poems arestill being turned into songs bywell-known figures such asKurdish (Syrian national) bornCiwan Haco. His most popularpoem is Were Dotmam, writtenfor his cousin/wife, RewflenBedirxan. Once he famouslysaid: “Foreign languages arelike our clothes, we can takeoff them whenever we wantbut our mother tongue,Kurdish, is like our skin, wecannot take it off.”

Bedirxan brothers (24)

Hawar newspaper in Kurdish (25)

475

Cizre dragons (Cizre Ejderhalar›)

Cizre’s Great Mosque once fea-tured two bronze door-knockersdesigned by the Kurdishscientist and artist Ebul ‹z ‹smailBin Rezzaz El Cezeri(see below). The name of theZengid ruler Abul QasimMahmud Sanshar Shah (reigned1208–1251) was written on thisdoor, which makes it likely thatthe two door-knockers date tothis time. The door-knockerstake the form of a pair ofdragons, looking not unlike seahorses with scaly skin; they alsohave almond eyes, forelimbs(shown touching) and headsthat are depicted looking back-wards. One dragon is thoughtto represent the Tigris, theother the Euphrates; the lionornament placed between themsymbolises the people of Cizreand Mesopotamia while theeagles close to their tails repre-sent the power of fighting. Oneof the door-knockers was stolenand later wound up at theDavid Collection inCopenhagen, Denmark; the

other is on display in Museumof Turkish and Islamic Arts in‹stanbul.

The door-knockers resemble adesign for the door-knockers inthe Artukid palace in Diyarbak›r,drawn by El Gezeri in his 1206work The Book of Knowledgeand Ingenious MechanicalDevices.

‹smail Ebul-iz

‹smail Ebul-iz(1153–1233), orBediuzzaman (mean-ing something like“unique in his time”)‹smail Ebul-iz binRezzaz El Cezeri, touse his full title, wasa true scientificpioneer. He can besaid to be one of thefounders of thefields of cyberneticsand computation in the world;he produced detailed diagramsof contraptions including

robots, automatedclocks, water clocksand hourglasses,mechanical musicalinstruments, combi-nation locks, kitchentools and automatedkitchen ware,faucets and auto-mated toys. Earlycopies of his bookare preserved in theTopkap› Museum in

‹stanbul as well as in Iraq, andhave also made their way intowestern libraries and museums.


Cizre dragons (door knock) (26)

‹smail Ebul-iz Works (27)

tion number of times, such as largescale restoration by local prince EmirAli Sencer in 1156. Local basalt wasused for all three gates, the main onebeing inscribed with verses from theKoran. Porticos, now demolished,stood in the east and west of thecourtyard. The beautiful large irondoor, datable to the 13th century, wasreplaced in 1946 and, clad in theoriginal geometrical motifs andinscriptions, has been on display in theMuseum of Turkish and Islamic Arts in‹stanbul since 1983. In the northernpart of the courtyard is a rectangularminaret.

The Red Madrasah (Medresa Sor)and the Tomb of Melayê Cizîrî

The recently restored Red Madrasah islocated in Da¤kap› quarter, themadrasah is built of local red brick –hence its name. It was built by theemir of Cizre, fierefxan, in 1508 to fulfilan oath that should he recapture the

city from the Akkoyunlus, he wouldbuild a madrasah at the spot at whichhe entered the city.

Considered a distinguished centre oflearning in its time, the madrasah is aone-storey structure with a largecourtyard built over the remains of asection of city wall. There are class-rooms on three sides and a smallmosque in the south. On the north sideof the courtyard are three iwans. Aroom in the south adjacent to themadrasah is said to have been for theMir’s use; it has built-in cupboardsand a nicely decorated ceiling.

South of the madrasah is annexbuilding whose basement houses thetomb of the 17th-century poet MelayêCizîrî as well as six members of theemir’s family. The walls are built ofblack basalt and decorated with lionsand inscriptions. Unusually, the domebulges downwards rather thanupwards.

fi›rnak/Cizre 477

The old red madrasah (28)

Sebahul Xeyrî Ya Xanim / Good Morning My LadyThis poem consist of 27 staves/verses

Sebahul xeyrî xanê min, flehê flîrîn zebanê minGood morning my lady, my candied sultanTu yî ruh û rewanê min, bibit qurban te canê minYou’re my soul and heart, let me sacrifice my heart for youTealellah çi zat î tu, çi wê flîrînsifat î tuFor the sake of God, what sweety you areNe wek qend û nebat î tu, yeqîn ruh û heyat î tuNot sugar or plant; you’re certainly soul and lifeHeyat û raheta canim, sebahul xeyrî ya xanimHey the soul of my soul and heart, good morning my sweetheartWere bêhnahiya çehvan, bibînim bejn û balayêCome, the heavenly light of my eyes, let me see you

Melayê Cizîrî

Born as Cizre in 1570 (althoughother sources state different dates),Melayê Cizîrî is a Kurdish writer,poet and mystic who used thepen-names Mela and sometimesNîflanî (he is also referred to as fiêxEhmed). He was educated first inDiyarbak›r and received his îcazet,qualifying him to be a seyda orreligious teacher. After that hewent to Hasankeyf (Batman) andBaghdad where he achieveddegrees in philosophy andastronomy. Returning to Cizre, hestarted educating students in

Madrasah Sor, which was theleading school for classical poetryin Kurmanji.

Inspired by the classical Persianpoets, Haf›z, Mewlana Jalalad-DinRumi and Jami, he expresses hisopinions in mystical ways, whichoften leads the reader to askwhether he is referring to the loveof God or the beautiful Selma (saidto have been a prince’s daughteror sister, whom he was in lovewith) because of the lack of a clearboundary between human anddivine love. His poetry fully reflectsthe Kurdish culture, language,history and his relationship withthe ruling Azizan Dynasty of Cizre,which was the most powerful andindependent of Kurdish emirates.His main literary work is theanthology Dîwana Melayê Cizîrîwhich was first published byMartin Hartmann in 1904. Hepassed away in 1664.

One of his most popular poems,which appears below, has been tomusic:

Mel

ayê

Ciz

îrî(2

9)

478

Sebahul xeyrî mesta min, letîfa cam bi desta minGood morning my in wine, who has a cup in her handsXumar û meyperesta min, tu yî meqsûd û qesta minMy in wine, sleepy eyed, my only wish and thought……………

Ji wê camê dinoflim ez, seher lew ney li hoflim ezI’m drinking from that cup at dawn, so that I’m unconsciousJi amê lê dipoflim ez, bi caran her lê dipoflim ezI don’t want anybody see me drinking, because I want to have my loveKu xalib mest û sukran im, sebahul xeyrî ya xanimI’m always enchanted and in wine, good morning my loveWere bêhnahiya çehvan, bibînim bejn û balayêCome, the heavenly light of my eyes, let me see youWere pêflber Melayê xwe, flehîd û mubtelayê xweLet Mela, your lover, martyried and addict see youBi flefqet ke liqayê xwe, mela nemrit bi daê xweBe kind-honey of him, do not kill Mela with your loveMesîhayî li bêmaran, kesên geztî du reflmaranYou are the Messiah of lovers and the ones biten by black snakesfiehîdê flîr û mûkaran, kirî amancê nûbaranI’m wounded with swords and daggers, you made me the targetLi dîdara te heyran im, sebahul xeyrî ya xanimI’m admirer of your beautu, good morning my loveWere bêhnahiya çehvan, bibînim bejn û balayêCome, the heavenly light of my eyes, let me see youMelayê Cizîrî

Cizre girl playing Arbane (Daf) (30)

479

Walls of old Cizre

Originally built by the Gutis in 4000 BC,the walls surrounding the old city ofCizre underwent several renovationsduring the time ofthe Medes andSassanids, andrecently in the1990s. Built up ofblack basalt, thewalls were exten-sive and wereshaped likeNoah’s ark, withthe bow represented by the northernside of the walls and the stern by thesouthern section. Some parts of thewalls were destroyed during conflict(for example, by Ottoman artilleryresponding to an uprising led by MirBedirxan in 1847) while others weredemolished by the authorities in 1935for the mundane purpose of improvingaccess for buses and lorries.

The walls are 2m thick and 14–15mhigh in places, and five towers in thesouth, one in the north and one in thewest have partly survived. When theSeljuks took the area in 1085, theysent their troops to capture Cizre, thenthe capital of the Mervanians; theSeljuks were let in by one of the city’snotables, Beni Vahban, who brokeranks with the Mervanians and allowedthe Seljuks in through the city gateknown as Babül Büveyb. Today thereare three gates: Deryê Torê in the

west, Deryê Defltê in the east andDeryê Çiya in the south. You can stillsee sections of the walls near theotogar and in the Kale quarter as wellas elsewhere in the town; othersections have become incorporatedinto nearby houses.

Abdaliye Madrasah

Located in Da¤kap› quarter, themadrasah was built by Emir Abdal ‹bniAbdillah Seyfeddîn Botî, who was thefather of Mir Zeynuddîn, mentioned inthe 17th-century version of the Mem uZîn legend (see p:481). To the right ofthe courtyard is a small mosquewhose entrance and mihrab are nicely

decorated with vari-ous motifs. The leftpart is offices, andin the basementhere are the sup-posed tombs ofMem and Zîn (sideby side) and, at theheads of theirgraves, Beko Awan.

The northern parts are classroomsand accommodation. The complexunderwent a European Union-fundedrestoration in 2007.


Cizre city walls (31)

Remains from Cizre city walls (32)

The tomb of Mem and Zîn (33)

Mem û Zîn

Mem û Zîn (“Mem and Zîn”)is a poetic art work written inKurmanji by Ehmedê Xanî(Ahmede Hani) in 17th century,and based on a legendary lovestory said to have existedbefore the time of Christ.Inspired by the legend, EhmedêXanî produced a latter-dayversion of it, in which the lovebetween Mem, the son of aroyal clerk, and Zîn, the sisterof Mir (emir) Zeynuddîn, isalways frustrated by the actionsof Beko, the emir’s doormanwho was spying on the couple;the tale culminates in thedeath of Mem while kept in ajail in the basement of Mir

Zeynuddîn Palace beingpoisoned by Beko, the suicideof Zîn and the killing of Bekoby Mem’s brother (althoughsome believe he was his bestfriend or cousin) Tajdîn. It issaid that the women of Cizrehave been in mourning eversince, which is why somewomen in black hijab are morenoticeable in Cizre even nowa-days than elsewhere in theprovince. Ehmedê Xanî’s workwas translated into several lan-guages, including Turkish,Arabic, Persian, English,French and Russian(Also see p: 614).

The Mehmet A¤a andEnsari Houses

Located in Bay›ra¤a area of Da¤kap›Quarter, this typical Cizre house wasbuilt by Fettah A¤a (a major in theHamidiye Forces, (see p: 614), whowas a relative of Mehmet A¤a. Thestonemason, Merho, built the westernside of this two-storey house fromblack basalt, while the south andsouthwest sections are of ornamentedwhite calcareous stone. The courtyardsurrounded by iwans has a barrel-vaulted entrance. The wall facing has

rectangular windows with semicircularvaults on which triangular frontons areplaced. Nearby is another historicaltwo floor house called Ensari, built

fi›rnak/Cizre 481

Mehmet A¤a house (34)

Mem û Zîn (35)

some 150 years ago supposedly withstone transported from Mardin andMidyat.

Deflt Bridge (Pira defltê)

Some 50m from Deryê Defltê is thisbridge, originally built by Cizre andMosul Ruler Zengi Atabeyi KutbeddinMevdut Han Bin ‹madeddin Zengi(1159–1170). It has been restored by,amongst others, Fevzi Çakmak, anOttoman commander; hence it is alsocalled the Fevzi Çakmak Bridge.Pictures taken by the traveller C.Preusser in 1911 indicate that someanimals, including young goats, weredepicted on the bridge, but during reno-vation most of these have disappearedexcept for a lion shown in basalt in thesouthern part.

Özel Cizre ‹smail Ebul-iz El CezeriMuseum

This museum was founded in one of theclassrooms of the school named after‹smail Ebul-iz El Cezeri in 1996, andmoved the following year to its currentbuilding in the central Eski BelediyeCad. Apart from the historical mihrab of

the Mosque of Noah, the museum hasBabylonian, Assyrian, Medean, Guti,Umayyads, Abbasid and Ottoman arte-facts; it is open from Tuesday toSaturday. The museum houses some480 items of agrological and localethnography.

Cizre Kalesi

Located on the banks of the Tigris,north of the city, the fortress dates rightback to the Gutis in 4000 BC, when it issaid to have had 360 rooms. The sitehas been used as a military base forsome time but the army should havevacated sometimes soon, and there areplans to restore the place and turn itinto a tourist attraction.


Mehmet A¤a house (36)

‹smail Ebul-iz El Cezeri museum (37)

The entrance, Deryê Çiya, is made upof two large upright black basaltstones which were connected with adecorative vault. Two lions aredepicted on the gate. The site containsan old madrasah, hamam andcisterns, mostly ruined, plus a largecaravanserai, above which is whatwould have been the residence of theruling family.

The fortress is notorious for its dun-geon in which Mem of the Mem û Zînstory is supposed to have beenimprisoned. It is accessed through adoor on which a deer is depicted. Thewalls are especially thick and strong,with melted lead used for plastering.

Hamidiye Barracks

These barracks for the HamidiyeForces (see p: 93) inside CizreFortress were built by a leader fromthe Miran Tribe, Mustafa Pafla (thistitle was bestowed during the reign ofSultan Abdülhamit II in 1897; localscall him Mistoyê Mîrî); his rule onbehalf of the Ottomans was endedwhen he was killed by rival tribes justoutside fi›rnak. The three-storey build-ing, originally intended as an office forthe governor, was constructed fromwhite calcareous stone by the stone-masons of Cizre and Midyat, in keepingwith other local architecture. Thebuilding is still a military site and can-not be visited for the time being,though there are plans to return.Inside is a dining hall on the groundfloor, offices and archives on the floorabove, while the top floor had meetingrooms and the offices of the Pafla.

Belek Tower (Birca Belek)

Adjacent to the fortress is the rectan-gular Belek Tower, built of alternatingblack and white stones by Mir Sharaf

fi›rnak/Cizre 483

Hamidiye barracks (38)

A view from Burcue belek (39)

Xan III in 1596 and with a strategicview over the Tigris River. In a poem tothe Mir, the well-known Kurdish poetMelayê Cizîrî referred to the tower asBurja Sharaf (Birca fieref), meaning“tower of honour”, but the currentname derives from the Arabic ablaq,meaning “piebald” and referring to thetechnique of using alternating stonelayers in this way. Only the base and asmall part of the tower remain today.

Baz›bda (Yafes or Bafid) Bridge

Some sources claim there was abridge here in Guti times, but the localhistorian ‹bnül Esir says what is seennow, 2km from Cizre on the Syrianborder, dates to 1164. The pre-Islamicname for Cizre was Bazibda, and thename still applies to a quarter in townand to this bridge, though at one pointthe bridge was renamed Yafes(Japheth, Noah’s son), maintaining thelocal connection with Noah. The lowersections of the bridge are built ofstone blocks. Zodiacal signs, animalfigures and the Ashab› Keyf (see p:284)are depicted on the bridge.

Cizre Culture and Art Festival

Held in the last week of May each year,this four-day festival is well attendedand features concerts, traditionaldances, sporting activities, exhibitionsand poetry readings.

Kasrik Gorge

Containing a mixture of archaeologicalruins, the Kasrik Gorge is 14km northof the town; if you are heading fromCizre to fi›rnak, you will see it at the


Bel

ek T

ower

(40)

Bazidba Bridge (41)

fi›rnak/Cizre 485

end of a large field on the left of theroad near the Tigris. To get there, usethe pedestrian bridge to cross the riverand walk along the riverside pathway.

To the right side are observation postsand old houses; on the left are cis-terns and depictions of kings from theGuti era. There was also a depiction ofprinces which was destroyed by alandslide in 1990, and survives only inpictures taken by the travellerGertrude Bell in 1909. There is asecret tunnel of 200m carved throughthe rocks, descending the creek. Thegorge is said to have been the summer

residence of Cizre emirs and also acheckpoint where tributes could becollected from passing traders.

The village of Kasrik is right next tothe site and contains the old HanMahmut Bridge, with three arches.There are few shops and fish restau-rants nearby, including the KasrikBo¤az› Alabal›k Tesisleri (0486 259 1252), located where the Gabar and CudiMountains meet. It offers fresh troutas well as kebabs and chicken.

Close by also are the ruins of theKasrik Bridge, said to be based on a

Cizre Culture and Art Festival (42)

bridge dating back to the Gutis. Somewalls still stand but these days a newbridge has been nearby linking Cizre,fi›rnak and Güçlükonak.

The Ruins of Babil

Located in Kebeli (Babil) village, 28kmsouthwest of Cizre near the border ofSyria, this site is said to have been the

seat of the first state of Babylon, whichlater moved its capital to Babylon inIraq because of constant attacks bythe Hittites and Assyrians. It becamealso the seat of the Assyrians whenthey took over Cizre and Babylon.

The city was surrounded by rectangu-lar walls, built of huge basalt stonesand with four gates and nearly 40towers; the village today stands overits ruins. Excavations in 1935 uncov-ered a sculpture of the Assyrian KingShalmanesar I, who is depicted hold-ing a lance in his hand while blinding aslave with a lance. The sculpture wastaken to the Museum of AnatolianCivilisations. There are still rocks withdepictions of humans, gravestones,ornamented stones and a tumulus tobe seen.


The Onflar Hotel on Yafes Cad(0486 616 94 32,www.hotelonsar.com) is athree-star affair with nearly 100rooms, most with views of theTigris. The Günefl Hotel onNusaybin Cad (0486 616 12 06)is smaller.

Sinan3 Lokantas› on Yeni Cad (0486616 45 66) offers regional fare,including some vegetarian food.Çaml›ca Restaurant on Yafes Cad (0486 617 05 35) offers variety ofkebabs.


Han Mahmut Bridge (44)

A king figure from Guti era (43)

‹dil (Herzex/Hezex)

fi›rnak/‹dil 487

Idil town is 75km in west of fi›rnak city,and part of a district that is one of themost densely populated in the region(population 21,329). Some say that theKing Nicator, who is said to haveestablished Antioch, Nusaybin andMidyat, is also the founder of ‹dil. ‹dilwas a village of Midyat until became asub-district of Cizre in 1924, then adistrict of Mardin in 1937, and part offi›rnak in 1990. The town haspreviously been called Harza¤ (“brave”

in Farsi) during the Persian Empire,and Zarih in the 6th century, meaning“cultivator” in Arabic. Until 1970s,Christians made up the majority in thecentre, but Muslims and nomadicfamilies moved in while Christians andYezidis migrated abroad, especiallyduring the unrest of the late 1980s.

The town benefits greatly from cross-border trade with Iraq and Syria, andhas also benefited from the oil pipelinebetween Iraq and the Mediterraneancoast, which has led the state-ownedBotafl Pipeline Company to establishsome facilities near the town.

Virgin Mary Church

‹dil was one of the places whereChristianity established an earlyfoothold thanks to one Mor Aday, andthe town still has a number ofchurches, one of which is the VirginMary (Meryem Ana) Church in the oldtown centre. Originally built in threesections in 57 AD (the constructiondate is disputed), the church is inAfla¤› Mahalle 300m from the mainroad to Cizre; it has been rebuiltseveral times, but today one section is

Virgin Mary church and Herzex fountain (45)

Virgin Mary church(46)

in ruins while the other two sectionshave been restored. In future thechurch will also have accommodationfor visitors.

Opposite the church is a sun temple,which is believed to be associated withthe Aramaens who lived inMesopotamia in the 10th to 8thcenturies BC.

The Fountain of Tamerlane(Kanîya Herzexê)

Tamerlane, of course, had a reputationfor wrecking any towns he conquered,so it is unusually that this 15th-centuryfountain is credited to him; indeed it isthe only structure in Anatolia bearinghis name. The fountain (Timur Çeflme),just in front of the Virgin Mary Church,is square in plan and was once at ahigher level than the surroundinghouses. Sadly the fountain has beenrestored and lost many of its originalfeatures.

Cehennem Deresi(Newala Koliyê)

Around 12km northwest of ‹dil, nearthe village of Yarbafl› (Hespist), is avalley containing the creek calledCehennem Deresi and connected toTigris Valley. Mainly steep and narrow,the valley includes the slopes of MountGabar and contains hundreds of caveson both sides. The area is leafy and isexcellent to visit on hot summer daysand offers good fishing. The middlesections are broader and cultivable;unusually, rice can be grown here.


Cehennem Deresi (47)

A detail from sun temple in ‹dil (48)

Herzex fountain (49)

Mor Yakup

This church, thought to have been builtin the 5th century and renovated in15th century, is in Ö¤ündük (Mehdê)village, 15km west of ‹dil town. Oncethis was an active theological collegeand acted as an overflow church forthe Syrian Orthodox when Meryem Anawas filled to capacity; today the churchis still in use.

Kela Elo DînoThis structure, built of limestone on alarge rock in the middle of the Tigris,is said to be the home of a legendaryfigure called Elo Dîno. When the region

was being government under strictfeudal rules from Cizre, the ruler wasinformed that a man called Elo Dînohad been standing in the middle of atrade route collecting tribute fromanyone passing. The ruler had himarrested, and when he was askedunder torture why he had collectedmoney in this way, his response was,“The worst thing is not to have any-thing to offer to a guest at home”.Upon hearing this reply, the rulerfreed him. Since then, his supposedhome has symbolised bravery. The siteis 10km from Güçlükonak and you canget there most easily via theCizre–Güçlükonak road; coming fromCizre, turn left at the fork just beforethe Kasrik Gorge and carry on past thebridge over K›z›lsu River and after15km you will reach the site. Kahraman Elo DînoThe hero of the story Elo Dîno(Tu feydê nake mîrêmin, It is useless sirfiimayênte helandî ser milê min,The wax you have put on my shoulders Kezeba min flewitandHas burnt my livers Edi nîne dermanêmin No medicine can cure me

fi›rnak/‹dil 489

Local Wedding (50)

Mak

ing

cand

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for

the

Chr

istm

as(5

1)

Silopi (Girikê Amo)

Located in the plain south of MountCudi, Silopi (population 70,670) borderswith northern Iraq via the Habur Gate,15km to the south of Silopi town andopen 24/7. The district, whose name isderived from Silopiya meaning“unbreakable” in Arabic, was asubdistrict of Cizre until it became partof Mardin in 1960, and thereafter partof fi›rnak in 1990.

Apart from oleanders along thecreeks, the area doesn’t boast a lot ofnatural greenery despite the presenceof the Tigris in the west and the HêzilStream in the east. At least most ofthe land is cultivable and agriculturedominates the economy; pistachios

and greenhouse vegetable productionhave become popular recently. Thereis also some coal production andmedium-scale industry, including aflour factory, and two geothermalpower plants whose electricity ismostly exported to Iraq. Transport isalso a key sector because of theproximity of the Habur Bordercrossing. A Tigris Tributary, the 24hour habur (Habur Çay›), which hasbasically the same name as the bordercrossing, crosses the district as doesthe Kirkuk–Ceyhan oil pipeline.

Silopi town is 80km south of fi›rnak byroad, though the distance as the crowflies is much less. Cheap electronicgoods and other imported stuff,


A view from Cudi (52)

Trade in Habur border (lorry drivers) (54)

A border guard from Kurdistan (KRG) (53)

including tea and cigarettes, can befound in the ‹kinci Cad Bazaar in thecentral Yefliltepe quarter. The tradingof fuel from Iraq has led many peopleto buy lorries with large tanks under-neath. The asphaltite sources in theregion are also important economicassets for the district. The Habur Gateis connected by regular dolmuflservices and taxis leaving from thetown’s otogar.

In April or May Silopi marks its CudiCulture and Art Festival, featuring theusual mix of concerts, dances andspeeches. The festival is promotedwith a different slogan every year, forexample: “Art will live with themountains”.

Kela Seîd Beg, Dêra Girê Çolyaand Bajarê Karda

This limestone fortress is on a 250mhill nearby Derebafl› (Giriçolya) andKösreli (Hesena) villages, 15km to thenorth of Silopi town. Built in 1800 bySaid Beg, a cousin of Mir Bedixhan(see p: 474), the fortress containstraces of Said Bey’s palace, a cisterncovered with a partly demolished

dome and a pool-like cavity, lined withasphalt.

Opposite the fortress is a churchcalled Dêra Girê Çolya, 12m long and5m wide and carved into a large rock.A 2m-high wall of limestone sits at thefront of the church. East of thefortress and northeast of Girêçolyavillage are the ruins of Bajarê Kardacity, which was a Guti capital; all thatcan be seen are the ruins of somedwellings and a cemetery withornamented gravestones.

fi›rnak/Silopi 491

A wedding in silopi (55)

Remains from Said Bey’s palace (56)

The Noah Pilgrimage Site

On Mount Cudi at a height of 2017m isa site believed by some to be whereNoah’s Ark (Nuh’un Gemisi) landedafter the flood. A 2m-high wall hasbeen built here to surround a spot thatis thought to have been used forprayers to Noah. Below is the tomb ofone Sheikh Mustafa.

The shortest route here is via the roadthrough Kösreli village, a 45-minutedrive north from Silopi; it is 20km tothe village itself and then another15km to the site on a poor road.


The ‹pekyolu Lokantas› on 2. Cad (0486518 13 53), opposite Ziraat Bank,serves a variety of grills, lahmacunand pide.

The Turistik Hotel (0486 518 16 31)and Habur Hotel (0486 518 42 28)are both at the crossroad on ‹pekYolu and are fairly comparable,offering air-conditioned roomswith TV and breakfast.


Cudi mountain (58)

Girê Çolya (57)

Uludere (Qilaban)

On rugged land between two highmountains, Uludere town is 48kmeast of fi›rnak city. The name of thedistrict (population 9,228) waschanged to Uludere during theRepublican era. The area was a sub-district of Beytüflebap until 1957, afterwhich it became part of Hakkariprovince and finally a district offi›rnak in 1990. The winding roadleading here from fi›rnak and on toBeytüflflebap presents seeminglynever-ending views of mountains, oneafter the other, but is often closedfrom November until spring due toheavy snow. The road along the Iraqiborder from Hakkari is generallymore passable.

Uludere is part of a wider area calledGoyîn, inhabited by a Kurdish clanwhose members have the name Goyi.Until the 1980s, there were also twovillages of Nestorian Christians calledDo¤an (fiii) and Onbudak (Bazyan), but

the inhabitants left for differentEuropean countries due to politicalunrest.

The area is a cultural and linguisticbridge between eastern Turkey andIraqi Kurdistan; people on either sideof the border speak the same kind ofKurmanji ascent, wear similar clothesand sing the same songs, and tran-shumance and the weaving of kilimsis common. Wedding ceremonies aremore protracted and a bit differentfrom elsewhere; men wear the dis-tinctive flal û flapik clothes (see p:499)and women wear colourful dressescalled kiras-fîstan, with jewellery and

fi›rnak/Uludere 493

Uludere (59)

Dengbêjs (60)

unusually folk dances generally beenunaccompanied by singing, thoughlately musical instruments havebegun to be used. Some tribes do alsodance to the left, in contravention ofthe convention of moving to the right.In the evening dengbêj singers willcome to the groom’s house to singthrough the night. A special mealcalled hellise is served the nextmorning, consisting of meat stewedall night long by two men.

Feudal, hereditary landlords mostlydo not exist here. Instead, there aredifferent small clans in each villagewho own the land and who are repre-sented by a notable person, who isusually a respected elder.Representatives from different vil-lages select one of their notables asthis leader, called Maqûl (“chieftain”),who always attends ceremonial occa-sions. He is given the best place to sitand normally has the final say inmeetings. Uludere town itself is aone-street affair, its few teahousesproviding a lively atmosphere andsocial outlet for the people. There are

few shoppers about, but shopkeeperskeep their businesses open till sunsetin the hope of making a sale.

Kali Kalesi

Four hour’s walk south, though just3km away, are the remains of KaliKalesi atop a 2300m mountain. Thesite contains a cave believed to bevisited by the spirits of holy people bynight. The village nearby, Kalemli(Kali), takes its name from thefortress, its advisable to seekguidance form the locals.


Bendy Bridge (61)

Cultivating land using animals (62)

Memê fiivan Kalesi (Kela Memê)

At the top of the Mehrinan Plateau 10km north of Uludere is this fortress,the site takes at least two hours toreach. It’s advisable to instruct a localguide and take extra care whileclimbing. At an altitude of 3000m, thesite does have good views of the oil-fields and city lights of Iraq, though,as well as of the Cudi and Gabarpeaks.

According to legend, Memê fiivan wasa shepherd whose flocks roamedbetween here and Dahuk in northernIraq. One dry summer, when grasswas in short supply, Memê fiivan’sanimals were somehow yieldingplenty of milk when those of his rivalswere not producing any. It turned outthat Memê fiivan was able to trans-form himself and his animals intopigeons in the evening and fly to thegrasslands at the fortress, returningat dawn. His secret was discovered bya milkmaid who discovered a blade ofgrass specific to the plateau on one ofhis goats. This spoiled his magic andchanged him and his animals into

stones in the middle of the plain.People arranged for a tomb for Memto be built at the fortress anddedicated the site to him (thoughlocals from Dahuk believe that he isburied in their area).

Gurkel Kalesi

The remnants of this fortress is at thetop of a crag encircled by cliffs, 3kmsouth of fienoba (Sêgirik) village and15km west of Uludere. The local mirswere powerful and demand regulartributes from locals; when the Goyanchieftains were late with payments onone occasion, it is said they all werepunished by being forced to walkbarefoot on spiny acanthus plantsuntil the plants were stained red. Thehumiliated chieftains decided to taketheir revenge, and contacted the wifeof the mir to trap him. From thefortress where he resided, sheunwound a spindle of wool until itreached the ground below, and cutthe thread. With this thread, thechieftains built a ladder tall enough toreach the fortress and took theirrevenge on the cruel mir.

fi›rnak/Uludere 495

Local Village transport (63)

Beytüflflebap (Elkê)

Beytüflflebap town (population 6,622) is112km east of fi›rnak city and has onlyone road leading to it. It is the mostremote part of the province, encircledas it is by 3000m peaks. The district,whose name is an Arabic compoundmeaning is “home of youth”, becamepart of Van in 1887, then part of Siirt in1926. When Hakkâri became aprovince in 1936, Beytüflflebap becameone of its districts, though in 1990 itbecame part of fi›rnak.

People cultivate wheat, barley andvegetables for self-consumption, andthe area is also well known for itshoney and walnuts. Carpet andrug-making are popular in villages,and some courses in these old arts arenow conducted for girls in the towncentre. Livestock farming is, of course,a major activity. In April and May, theherds are taken to the plateaus byshepherds. The shepherds live on theplateaus at this time. Sites called Bêrîare designated for milking theanimals, and the milkmaids, orbêrîvan, are driven here from thevillages in the afternoon (See p: 516).

The shepherds know the animals welland announce everybody’s animalsupon their arrival at the Bêrî, at whichpoint the milkmaids get ready to milkthe animals belonging to theirfamilies. In the dry summer months,the herds are moved to even higherplateaus, and are brought down once aday to a site (normally near by thetenants, in Kurdish called Kon) wherethe animals can water and themilkmaids can arrive to do their work.

Interestingly, two Christian villagesnearby are still inhabited. The larger ofthe two is Ceviza¤ac› (Geznax), 11kmaway, with about ten households who


A view from Beytüflflebab (64)

Joking with locals (65)

reside mostly in Europe, returningback to their houses (newly built)houses only during summer. The othervillage is Kovankaya (Hozû Mêz), 25kmwest of town and actually slightlynearer to Uludere than Beytüflflebap.

Zümrüt (Germav) Spring

Five kilometres from the town is thisspring near Il›cak (Gundê Germavê)village. To get there, turn left justbefore you get to the town and followthe road downhill. There is a spa herewith three outdoor and one indoorpool, and separate sections for menand women; the water, which is atbody temperature, is sulphurous andcurative for rheumatism, heartconditions and skin problems.

Berxbir Festival

One of the most interesting and enjoy-able festivals in southeast Turkeytakes place in mid-July each year,when the Municipal Berxbir Festival isheld 8km east of Beytüflflebap, at KatoMarinis in the Lalefli Valley. The localspitch both traditional black and regulartents in the plains for the festival, and

provide food and drink to visitors fromsurrounding villages as well astourists (who can stay in their own tentor, if organised through themunicipality, with a family in theirtent). For four days and nights there isalmost non-stop folk dancing (theydance sometimes to the left ratherthan the more usual right), and therealso concerts, local games and exhibi-tions of local wares, including carpetsand flal û flapik clothes. This is also agreat place to see people turned outen masse in traditional clothes uniqueto this province; wearing Kurdishcostume has become de rigeuer andpreferred here. Groups head up into

fi›rnak/Beytüflflebap 497

Berxbir Festival (66)

Zümrüt (Germav) spring (67)

some especially scenic mountains forexcursions each morning and thereare fireworks at night.

Contests are organised to pick up themost handsome ram, the best honeyand the best yogurt freshly made bybêrîvan, but the most interesting com-petition is the lamb-shearing. Thelambs are washed one day before andshown to jury members; colourfulribbons (some in red, green andyellow, the colours of the bannedKurdish flag) are put on three selected

lambs and they are shorn. The con-testant who shears his lamb thefastest and in the most elegant andtidy way is awarded gold. If you areinterested to attend, contactBeytüflflebap Municipality on0486 311 20 06.

Dev Evleri

On Faraoflin Plateau some 22km fromBeytüflflebap are these “giant’s hous-es”, Dev Evleri; in reality they are fourhuge caverns dug into the rock andsome remains of heavily build stonewalls are thought to have been used asobservation posts to guard againstincursions by the Assyrians, and at thesame time as a shelter during thesummer transmigration.


Lamb-shearing Berxbir Festival (68)

Chosen lambs taking part in festival (69)

Traditional tenet (70)

This traditionalKurdish maletwo-piece outfit,comprising loosetrousers and akind of jacket, hascenturies ofhistory behind it;production in theregion of thefabric used tomake it is as old

as the silk trade. The costume is always worn with a fine leather belt,into which a handgun or knife was slipped in times past.

The clothes, often in brown or black, are made mainly of mohair aswell as other materials including wool and cotton, carefully woven byskilful women and girls who have learned the tradition from theirmothers. Most motifs used have a symbolic meaning, and can bewoven specifically for an individual.

fial û flapik

fi›rnak/Beytüflflebap 499

Mountain morning sport Berxbir Festival (71)

fial û flapik (72)

Kurdish dancing at Berxbir Festivali (73)

A wedding in Hakkari (1)

The mountainous area surroundedby Urmia (Wirmê) in Iran to theeast, Dihok (Dahuk) in Iraq to thesouth, known as Hakkari (alsocalled Çolemerik, in SyriacGûlarmak). The people of Hakkari,living as “free tribes” since earlyhistory ruled their area as anautonomous Kurdish principality,however they were went underOttoman control in the 19th century.During this period, Kurdish Beysdominating the area could issue coinand sermon on their names andestablish madrasahs. Dozens ofKurdish figures receiving their educa-tion in these madrasahs had theirshare in the coinage of Hakkari as“land of the literary”. Although localKurdish customs have someresemblance to those in neighbouringprovinces, they still strike attention forsome peculiarities. In the towns andvillages of Hakkari you come acrossmore frequently with people stilldressed up in traditional ways.

The area has been permeated not onlyby the usual list of empires and civili-sations but also by a variety ofreligious traditions over the centuries.

Zoroastrianism was common here inMedian times; among Assyrians whofled from the legendary city of Ninova(Mosul) in 612 BC and found relief inthe mountains of Hakkari later gotacquainted with the ideas of priestNasturius in the middle of the 5thcentury. The area then became animportant centre for Nestorians andthis community could survive in thearea until the 20th century. Indeed,Nestorian churches scattered aroundthe valleys and high mountains of thearea are now striving to resist the

Hakkari 503

Reserved tulip (2)


246,469 (2007)

Average altitude


DistrictsHakkâri, Çukurca, fiemdinli,

YüksekovaEconomyLivestock, Farming, Beekeeping


fi›rnak (west), Van (north)

At a glance

obliterating effects of nature andmankind in their age-old solitude.

The area was also home to Armenians,Yezidis, Chaldean Christians and Jews,with Islam becoming significant fromthe 10th century onwards. In the 14thcentury fiir Îzedîn founded whatbecame a dynasty of Mirs of Hakkari,who ruled from bases in Gevafl and(later) Baflkale, both of which are nowin Van. Nurullah Bey, the last of theseMirs, massacred some NestorianChristians and revolted unsuccessfullyagainst the Ottoman in the mid-19thcentury. During World War I it wascaptured briefly by Russian armies,when it was a district linked to Van,before becoming part of the newTurkish Republic and then a provincein its own right in 1936.

The economy of the province is mainlybased on livestock farming; the largemeadows and pastures are ideal

places to breed animals, but agricul-ture is hampered by the conditions.Beekeeping is popular in areas andfiemdinli district produces good honeyand tobacco.

Hakkâri is known for its natural beauty(including its floral symbol, a kind offritillary) and you should make an effortto reach the high mountains, valleys,glacier lakes and summer pastures,either by driving there or perhaps usingvillage dolmufls. A good spot to pick,for example, is the Zap River Valleywhich features not only a variety ofscenic beauties along its length butalso several Nestorian churches, typi-cally located above valleys. Anotherrich valley, K›r›kda¤ (Xenanis), offersthe chance to see more Nestorianrelics, including the inaccessible Marfialita Monastery. History buffs will rel-ish seeing a number of old fortressesand thousands of petroglyphs in theGeverok and Tirflin Plateaus (TirflinPlateaus also linked to Çatak in Vanprovince). Finally, there is also Ba¤lar(Nehrî), a village redolent of associa-tions with Kurdish history as it washere that Seyyid Taha set up amadrasah that would be a spiritualbeacon for the Kurds.


Kurdish dance (3)

The wedding of Nestorians (4)

Some prominent people from Hâkkari

Though small, the province hasproduced a number of well-known figures. One of these wasthe poet Melayê Bateyî or Bati(real name Hasan Huseyin;1689–1755), born at Bate into theErotofl tribe. He travelled widelythroughout Kurdistan, andemployed different accents ofKurdish and special words in hiswriting. His most well-knownworks are Mewlûda Bateyî (orMewlûda Pêxember Eleyhî Selat ûWeselam), which is read at reli-gious functions; an anthology fullof great poems in Kurdish; andÇîroka Zembîlfirofl (Legend ofZembîlfirofl). Another poet andwriter was fiêx Adî (1075–1162)was a respected sheikh bornfierefedîn in 1075 into the TîrahTribe of Hakkâri. He studied atmany important madrasahsincluding in Damascus, Aleppo,Baghdad, Mosul and Diyarbak›r,he has written some books suchas Mishefa Refl (book on Yezidis),

Helbest and Cilwe. He wrote lotsof poems with rhythm, most ofwho were consisting of sevensyllables as in the poem Zerdeflt.In the contemporary arts scene,there was writer, actor, and direc-tor Y›lmaz Erdo¤an, born inHakkâri in 1968. Peoplethroughout Turkey enjoyed hishugely successful moviesVizontele (2000) and VizonteleTuuba (2003), depicting life in asmall Kurdish village learning toappreciate TV for the first time,and also the dark days of the1980 military coup. He was a stu-dent of engineering at ‹stanbulTechnical University but turned hishand to drama, writing sketchesfor TV and working with differentcompanies. He is from a talentedfamily: his brother Mustafa is achoreographer who founded thefirst private dance company ofTurkey, Sultans of the Dance, andanother brother, Deniz, is awell-known musician.

Yezidis (5)

505


A view from Hakkari City (6)

Hakkâri CityLike many towns in Turkey, Hakkâri(population 57,954) is basically amodern place, but the way of life hereis more traditional and tribal-minded,though unusually old women may notcover their hair completely, and showstrands of hair dyed with henna.Locals speak Kurmanji with apleasant, soft accent and are veryhospitable, to the point that a proposalto build a hotel in one of the surround-ing districts (Çukurca) was blocked bylocals who feared it would damagetheir ability to host visitors in their ownhomes.

In the city centre next to fienler MuratHotel in Gazi Mahallesi, Bulver Cad isthe pleasantly located Valilik Park›, thepark is a nice place where you canspend some time in the eveningsduring your stay in city of Hakkari. Youwill be served hot, cold drinks and ice-cream in this fresh green environment.Live music played till late hours.

Approaching the city, you will begreeted by the sight of Mount Sümbül(Çiyayê Simbil) and by the symbol of

Hakkâri, the flowers whose Turkishname translates as “reversed tulips”(in Kurdish fiilêr/ gulnexwîn), butwhich are really crown imperialfritillaries (Fritillaria imperialis).

Hakkâri (Colemêrg) Kalesi

What remains of this fortress in thecentral Da¤göl (Taxa Paganê) quarteris a section of ramparts in the north-east. The exact date of the construc-tion is unknown. The area was a diningand picnic area until 1960, after whichit became used as a military installa-tion (and remains off-limits to visitors).

In 1998 some stelae were uncoveredby chance beneath Hakkâri Kalesi.They took the form of 13 stonefigurines, varying in height from undera metre to just over 3m. They arethought to have been made around1200 BC. The rear of these figuresconsists of plain, uncarved rock; it is

Winter in Hakkari (7)

Hakkari 507

only from the front that it is clear theydepict humans, eleven of whom arethin, long-faced and wearing helmets(thought to be male) and two areplumper, likely to be female. All arenaked and many carry weapons. Thestelae were kept in the MeydanMadrasah for a time but are now onshow in Ahlat Museum in Bitlis alsoVan Museum.

Meydan Madrasah

In the central Madrasah quarter, theMeydan Madrasah was restored in2006 and is worth seeing. The inscription on the door is mainly Koranicbut mentions that the madrasah wasbuilt in 1700-1701 by ‹brahim Bey (theson of a Hakkâri ruler, called ‹zzettinBey). The madrasah, of smooth stoneblocks, has a typical form with its twostoreys, each within 13 rooms, andlarge courtyard. In the whole struc-ture, nicely cut masonry is used. Asmall door with a pointed arch coveredwith motifs opens on the south side.

Gulêrefl Baba Tomb

In the Biçer (Bajêr) quarter is thistomb, to which many pilgrims arrive

from Hakkâri and around practicallyevery day of the year. In a fencedcourtyard surrounded by oak trees, thetomb is that of Gulêrefl Baba, wholived between 1074 and 1162, and it ispart of a mosque with the same name,restored in 1982.

Melik Esat Cemetery

The province has a number ofhistorical cemeteries, mostly datingfrom Ottoman times and located inHakkâri city; they are interesting asthe tombstones have attractive inscrip-tions and are often made ofserpentine, a dark green stone.

One of these graveyards is the MelikEsat Cemetery, west of the mosque of

Meydan Madrasah (8)

Gulêrefl Baba Tomb (9)

Nestorian Churches


Most of the churches in Hakkâri belonged to Nestorian Christians, whohad a major presence here until the 1920s. Non-Muslims fled the areafor Iraq during and after World War I, and tried to return in 1924 withthe help of the British, though this was thwarted by the Turkish army.Thus the churches were abandoned; today they are often relatively wellpreserved. The valleys often have names corresponding to the tribe thatlived there.

Churches are oftenlocated high up over-looking valleys or onnatural salients, whilesome monasteries areplaced on mountainslopes. Almost all arecomposed of a nave andan altar. The walls areusually of cubical stoneblocks and white plasterhas been applied inside;

roofs are usually flat and made of earth. Low doors connect theentrance area and the main hall. The lack of inscriptions means the dateof construction is often unknown.

that name in the Biçer (Bajêr) quarter.The graveyard is surrounded withwalls and wire fence. There are twodozen old tombstoneswith plant motifs anddifferent symbols; themost important ofthese belong to thelocal lords of Hakkâriprovince.

There is another oldcemetery called KaleAlt› Mezarl›¤› east ofthe Hakkâri Kalesi, butthere is little to seehere as most of thegraves are literallyburied. One gravestoneuncovered here, dated to1781, is kept in the Meydan Madrasah.

Zeynel Bey Madrasah

This madrasah, located in the Biçer(Bajêr) quarter next to the Katramas

River (Çemê Qetremasî), wasbuilt during the era of ZeynelBey (1560–1578), who was oneof the local lords of Hakkâriregion. He perished during in awar with the Persians and isburied in the courtyard of themadrasah. The madrasah, nowpartly ruined, originally had arectangular form with acourtyard in the middle androoms to the west and south.

K›rm›z› Kümbet (Red Tomb)and Cemetery

Located in a hillside cemetery in theMedrese quarter are some ruins from

Nestorians of Hakkari(11)

A grave Stone fromMelik Esat Cemetery (10)

the historical K›rm›z› Kümbet.Archaeological work leads us to thinkthat the original construction was rec-tangular and oriented east–west.Some turquoise-coloured ceramicswere found close to the surface; vari-ous items excavated here are now inthe collection of the museum in Van(see p: 543). Colourful bits of cloth aretied to the trees around by people whowant to make wishes.

The graveyard itself, dating back toOttoman times, includes manyhistorical tombstones beautifully orna-mented with plant motifs and differentgeometrical signs. Many of the grave-stones have, however, been dug up.The valuable ones are kept in MeydanMadrasah. Most of the graves belongto the rulers of Hakkari and theirfamilies; the ones belonging toAbdullah Han and his mother RabiaSultan are especially important. Thegrave of Abdullah Han, resembling atulip, is located in the centre of thegraveyard. There are Arabic inscrip-tions on it, giving the date as 1780 andbordered with plant and geometricalmotifs, and there is also an ornament-ed footstone. Rabia Sultan’s grave,dated to 1768, has a headstone andfootstone as well and is likewisecovered with calligraphy.

Hakkari 509

Hakkâri is accessi-ble via fi›rnak orVan, with bus con-nections from bothprovinces. The 24-hour border gatewith Iran is situatedin the village ofEsendere, 40kmeast Yüksekova.

There are two hotelson Altay Cad in thecentre. The Ümit (0438216 24 69) has roomswith TV (some alsowith mountain views)and a breakfastrestaurant; similar isthe fienler Murat(0438 216 28 57).

The centrally located DeryaRestaurant (0438 211 65 92)on Cumhuriyet Cad, near ‹flBankas›, serves differenttypes of kebabs and soups.Some 7km out of town onthe road to Çukurca is ZapDinlenme Tesisleri (0438 21142 23), a riverside fishrestaurant.

Getting there



Zeynel Bey Madrasah (12)

Children selling revas (13)


Bay Kalesi

About 8km south of town in Bay Village(Gundê Bayê), this fortress is placedon a precipitous rock cliff. You getclose to it by road, and thereafter youcan ascend to the castle from thenorth or south flanks using steps cutin the rock, but note that the site is yetanother military installation and thuscannot be visited.

The fortress is in ruins, though it’sobvious that it was built of uncut stoneand Horasan plaster, which containsingredients like egg, cheese and bloodto strengthen it. Bits of colouredceramics are dispersed in the interiorof the castle, and there is an adornedtablet bearing a cross. According tosome sources, plastered stone piecesdecorated with fritillaries were alsofound. Other ceramic artefacts foundon the site indicate that it has beeninhabited from the Iron Age. Somehistorical sources add that tribalchieftains once ruled the provincefrom this fortress.

Zap Valley (Geliyê Zêp)

Seven kilometres east of the city is theZap River Valley, 150km long in all.

The Zap River has its source at Karasuto the south of Baflkale. When youdrive along the valley you are present-ed with different types of natural beau-ty at each point, from mountains tosummer pastures and plateaus, bestvisited in late spring and summer ifyou want to see nomadic pastoral life.The valley also hosts several historicalmonuments and Nestorian Christiansettlements. One of the churches hereis Mar Sawa, 45km from Hakkâri inGeçimli (Dêra Mersua) village. If youare interested in visiting it you cantake the village bus that leavesHakkâri centre.

Helil Church (Dêra Helêlê)

8km out of the city on the road to Van,you will see some highway facilities on

Zap Valley (14)

Helil Church (15)

Hakkari 511

the main road; just behind is a villagecalled Helil (Helêlê) containing aNestorian church of the same name.Like other Nestorian churches it isrectangular in plan, with stone wallsand an earth roof, though unusually itis undecorated and has no inscriptionsto give a clue to its age.

Sheikh Naz›r’s Tomb(Ziyareta fiêx Nazir)

Sheikh Naz›r was the commander ofthe first Muslim armies which came tothe region and he was killed here.People make pilgrimages to his tomb,16km west of the city in Durankaya(Silehê), on 28 July, which is supposedto be the date when he died.

Berçelan Plateaus(Zozanên Berçelanê)

This high plateau is the most wellknown in the region, thanks to itsgreenery, fresh air, water sources,colourful flowers and magnificent ZapRiver view. Nomads use it as a pasturein summer, but it also hosts a numberof short-stay visitors who camp here.The plateau is reached by a winding18-kilometre road from Hakkâri city.Sleeping here under thousands of

stars offers the chance to watch abeautiful sunrise, but even in summer,be sure to bring some warm clothes.

In late June a municipality-organisedfestival takes place on the plateau,lasting two to four days. The eventadds an unusual touch to pastoral life,and its centrepiece is the lamb-shear-ing competition. On the first day thelambs are washed and dried, and onthe second they are sheared. The aimis simple: to shear the lamb efficientlyand accurately. After the awarding ofthe prizes, the festivities proper com-mence, including feasts, music anddancing. Occasionally well-knownsingers are invited to perform andmeanwhile buyers and sellers come

Berçelan Plateau (16)

Seyitan Lake (17)


Koçanis church (18)

together to bargain overanimals, wool etc. Formore info contactMunicipality:0438 211 64 59

Lake Seyithan (GolaSeyîtxan)

Lake Seyithan (Seyîtxan) is a glacierlake located in the northwest of theBerçelan plateau. Watching itscrystalline blue water will relax youreyes. The lake water, fed by thesnowmelt, can be so cold that you darenot put your hand in it twice. It is saidthat the lake takes its name fromSeyithan, the son of one of Hakkâri’srulers; Seyithan used to hunt aroundhere and was always taking a break bythe lake. There is no public transporthere and driving here requires travers-ing an un-surfaced road.

Koçanis Church

This church, 18km north of the city inKonak (Koçanis) village, is one of themost important in the region andimportant religious figures used to bestationed here. For these reasons, and

because it is better decoratedthan some others, it is

worth having a look at.The village, now aban-doned, can be reachedby road from thedirection of Hakkâri

city from Gazi quarter,via a pass at a height of

2800m that traverses theBerçalan Plateau.

There was a Nestorian patriarchalchurch here from 1662 until 1915; thepresent church was built in 1800. Ithas a vaulted nave roughly 16m x 8min size, and is oriented east–west. Theentrance is on the west side of thesouth facade, which has some motifsand also some sundials. A platformconnects the entrance to the altar viatwo doorways. Construction is of stoneblocks, predominantly beige in theupper parts of the walls though lowerdown coloured stone is used. A num-

A detail from Koçanis Church (19)

A detail fromKoçanis church (20)

Hakkari 513

K›r›kda¤ Valley (21)

ber of beautiful symbols have beendepicted on stones near the mainentrance and also on the main exteriorwalls. The church is situated up on arock, increasing its defendability.

The patriarch traditionally carried thetitle Mor fiemun (Mar fiimon); the 13thMor fiemun (Mar fiimon Bünyamin),who was associated with the British,was murdered in 1915 by a Kurdishtribal leader in Iran.

K›r›kda¤ Valley (Geliyê Dêzê)

The K›r›kda¤ Valley, signed “K›r›kda¤Vadisi” on the right of the Van road20km out from Hakkâri, has highplateaus with glaciers called CennetCehennem, meaning “hell andheaven”. The area boasts not onlynatural beauty but also 14 churchesand a fortress, and is popular withlocals for excursions. The ideal time tovisit is between spring and mid-autumn, when willow and walnut treeswill shade from the worst of the heat.

At the entrance to the valley is DêzKalesi, a small rectangular fortress ona 100m hill affording perfect views ofthe Ava Spi and Zap rivers. Thefortress once had a watchtower at

each corner, though the westerntowers are partly collapsed. A gate inthe east wall gives onto a big hallinside with ruined rooms to each side.The fortress’s age and builders areunknown, though the fort is mentionedin the fierefname (a famous tomecovering Kurdish history- Also seep: 434) and is said to have belonged tothe Nestorians.

Around 1500m from Dêz village isDikmen (Mat), an abandoned villagewhich contains a ruined church thatwas converted into a mosque and sitson a plain with a few walnut treesaround. Around 6km away is Allagipevillage, containing another church.

Dêz Kalesi(22)


Solingir Kalesi, not accessible byroad, is located at a narrowpoint 7km up the K›r›kda¤Valley on a high rock as istypical. There are a fewman-made walls aroundthe castle which iscarved out of naturalrock, though treasureseekers have taken theirtoll on the site.

Located in Öveç (Seravinis) village 8kmnorth of K›r›kda¤ Valley is fiabaChurch, prominently located on aslope; the site can be reached by road.The church is made up of stone blocksand had two floors (the upper one is

gone), and an apartment which housedthe priest and his family. From the topof the rock on which the church sits,you can spot other churches as well asDez Kalesi.

The small Soe Church is on a greenhill in So (Soe) village, at the end of thevalley; the Gelezzo (Gêlezo) Church is1km away, with Çilkanî spring on theleft. Both churches are Nestorian.Beyond are the glaciers known as

Cennet Cehennem. The Cehennemis famous for its around ayear snow as it is too deep,snow will never get melted

in the valley.

Mar fialitaMonastery

Mar fialita Monasteryis situated 6km alongthe K›r›kda¤ Valley

road in an inaccessible,precipitous area; to get close you needto pass through Allagipe and carry onfor another 5km. Built by Nestorians,the church can only be picked out asyou approach it. The place is alsocalled Dêra Çiya (Mountain Church)

A detail from Mar fialita Monastery (24)

Children from the village (25)

Gelezzo church(23)

Hakkari 515

and Dêra Keri (White Church) bylocals, as well as the Sumela ofHakkâri, after the famous GreekOrthodox monastery situated ona high cliff in Trabzon by the BlackSea. It is constructed in a cavity carvedout of the rock.

Kursin Church (Dêra Kursînê)

Similar in structure is the KursinChurch, in the north side of theGümüfllü (Kursin) village on a moun-tain slope in K›r›kda¤ Valley, 25kmfrom Hakkâri city. The church is ingood condition. After you enter via thedoor in the east wall, you encounter asecond door which serves as adefensive feature, preventing peoplefrom entering the church easily.

Sheikh Ali Mosque and Tomb

This 18th-century mosque is located inÜzümcü (Dizê) village at the 27kmmark on the Hakkâri–Çukurca road. Ithas been restored as a two-storeybuilding but may once have an addi-tional storey, and served not only as amosque but also as a religious schooland dervish lodge. The externalfacades of the walls are still original,which are made up of uncut stones. Ithas been covered with a pyramidaliron roof. There are 6 small vaultedwindows in south and east walls. Inaddition the tomb of the sheikh someoil lamps, a huge wooden rosary, anold fez, a material for writing can beseen inside the mosque.

Derav Church

Located on a hilltop above the villageof Üzümcü (Dizê), 31km from Hakkâricity on the Hakkâri–Çukurca road, thissmall church is accessed by a door inthe south side and has an interiorcomprising a nave and an altar. Someof the walls are partly damaged but itis still visitable.

Derav church (27)

Sheikh Ali Mosque (26)


Mar Abdiflo and Azizan Churches

Mar Abdiflo is another typicalNestorian church located near O¤ul(Tal) village some 29km south of thecity centre. Only some11km of the road isasphalted. Themonastery is locatedon a sharp cliff andreachable by walkingfor an hour, startingfrom before the fork

where the road branches for theAzizan (Ezîzan) village; steps cut in therocks will take you to the site. Thesingle- storey features some stonewalls in front of a natural cave. Thereare windows to the east and west, thewestern one having the shape of across. The interior of the church isplastered with lime. Some of the wallsare partly destroyed, while others havebeen demolished by bounty hunters.Unlike other cave churches it has itsown water source inside.

Just before you reach O¤ul, if you fol-low the vehicle road you will come tothe Azizan village, which has its ownchurch at the foot of a hill. It looks

intact from theoutside but theinterior, whichoriginally had twochambers, is nowin ruins. The roof isflat and coveredwith earth.

Life in summer pastures

Life on the plateaussounds blissful, withplenty of fresh air andplenty of distance fromthe stress and pollution ofthe cities, but of coursethe reality is rather differ-ent; it isn’t easy to spendhalf of the year on themountains taking care oflivestock (but also becauseof the limitation on

accessing the plateaus enforced by the state army). Sharing the workout amongst the villagers keeps the community together and minimizesthe toughness of the work. The men and youths take the animals awayfrom the village to feed them with fresh grass, while others work to col-lect grass with which to feed them in winter. Women do the hardestwork, looking after not just the animals but also their husbands and chil-dren; milkmaids called Bêrîvan are some of the most productive and skil-ful of the women (see p: 496).

Life in summer pastures (30)

Mar Azizan Church (29)

Mar Abdiflo church (28)

Hakkari 517

Shepherds taking a break (31)

Kaval (Qewalê) Valley(Geliyê Qewalê)

This valley is 55km away and reachedvia Çukurca district. The beauty of therich summer pastures and waterfalls issuch that it has become the subject ofseveral folk songs. The sinuous Kavalriver has its source at a waterfall onMount Kato, on a slope of which is theBegir Kalesi (Kela Bêgirê), east of KavalKam›fll› and Geçitli (Livîn) villages andsome 63km south of Hakkâri city (youwill have to get there by car as there isno public transport to returnfrom here).

Cilo-Sat Summer Pastures(Zozanê Cîlo)

The Cilo-Sat range is located in theeastern side of the Zap Valley, with theNehil Valley (Geliyê Nihêlê) to the northand the fiemdinli (fiemzînan) and AvaflînStreams to the South. This is a favouriteplace for mountain climbers with manylakes, peaks, springs and a magnificentnature. The area is also quite importantin terms of transhumance for the localtribes. Rock art in the Geveroktableland indicates that the area hasbeen inhabited up to 8000 years ago.

A¤açdibi Falls (Sûlava Kehê)

To reach these wonderful falls, drivethe road between Hakkâri andÇukurca district; after some 13km youwill reach A¤açdibi (Kehê) village (theturning is close to the Zap DinlenmeRestaurant). Fifteen minutes’ walkaway are these high falls, especiallyworth seeing in spring when they are

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swelled by snowmelt. Nearby is agood, restful picnic area with a springcalled Ava Ore.

Lake Sat (Gola Geraflîn)

Blue Lake Sat is northeast of Hakkâricity, behind the Sat-Cilo Mountainswhich are covered with the snow halfthe year. In springtime they nourishthe lake with melted snow, at whichtime the area becomes an exceptional-ly beautiful blend of green tones onland and blue waters. To reach thelake, make for A¤açdibi (Kehê) village(see above) and then take the routeleading north; it takes about 3 hourson foot, or you could hire a horse toride there. Also you can reach therevia the village of Veregoz (Warêgûz)some 24km away from town ofYüksekova.

Mount fiine (Çiyayê fiînê)

This mountain resembles to hugebrick with its rectangular shape. It islocated 30km from Hakkâri city en

route to Çukurca at the point wherethe Kaval and Zap rivers cometogether. It is easy to reach thisremarkable mountain bypublic transport.

Sat lake (33)

Revesed tulip (34)

Kilims (Flat-weave rugs)

The red-legged partridge (kew)

Making a large kilim, workdone mainly by house-wives and girls, cantake up to a year. Thewool to be used isdyed with naturalpigments made ofthe roots of dif-ferent plants, barkand even earth. An item called flapis used to prevent the colours fromfading. Kilims are woven on a hori-zontal loom (also called a nomadic

loom) or a vertical (›star)one. Some off the warpthreads used in kilimsare uzatma, erifl andargaç and weft threadsare called atma, germeor masur. The loops aretightened using an irontool called kerkît (ham-

mer comb). Motifs in kilims includegeometric shapes and animals,designs symbolising the tribe andarchitectural symbols.

The red-legged partridge (Alectorisrufa, or kew in Kurdish) is nostranger to people in this part ofTurkey, and is also found else-where in the Middle East andEurope. In southeast Turkey theyare regarded as national symbols,their imageturned intolarge postershung up in tea-houses andrestaurants.

The birds areabout a footlong, with redlegs and bills, and their eyes areringed with red plumage. The chin

and throat are a dull white whilemuch of the rest of the plumage isreddish brown streaked with olivegrey. Wild birds like to inhabitheartland and woodland. The birdsare easily tamed, and you may belucky enough to see one caged in

a teahouse intowns, villagesand may get tohear themsinging beauti-fully. Among theKurds kew isbelieved to be

untrustworthybird, they are used as a lying birdto hunt other kew by singing andinviting them to the hunting spot.

Traditional rugs in Hakkari (35)

Hand made socks (36)

Red legged partridge (Kew) (37)

519

The one thing that you must see whiletravelling in the east and south eastregions is the amazing Kurdishweddings. Weddings are commonlyheld in the public, either outsidevillages or near the grooms’ house andsometimes in the village square or inopen spaces in town neighbourhoods.You won’t fail to notice the existence ofa wedding if you are in the vicinity, as

the sound of traditional live music withyoung girls ululating. Serhed, asTurkey’s eastern border regions areknown, is one of the few parts ofTurkey where Kurdish weddings arecelebrated in the proper way. Womencan lead the dances mainly shakinghandkerchiefs in red, green andyellow, the colours of the bannedKurdish flag. During the dancing

Kurdish weddings and local dances

Kurdish Jewish wedding in Israel (38)

Bride and groom receiving gifts (39)

friends and relations of the groommake flabafl, tipping the musicians tomake them play for special guests. Atalmost all of ceremonies the groomand the bride do traditional dances,especially the one called delîlo.

The organizer of the ceremony, theezepçerî or birazava, is an importantfigure. He takes money from the rela-tives of the groom in order to spend

during the ceremony, takes the groomto the barber for a close shave, buysclothes for the groom, etc.

The most interesting parts of theseceremonies are held at the late nightwhen the children and the elderlyleave the area. The ezepçerî orbirazava must always be with thegroom at this time and must be verycareful about late-night antics: for

Henna night (40)

example; the teenagers of the villagemay come together, steal the groom’sclothes and ask the ezepçerî to paythem to have these items returned. Oranother possibility is that two teams ofsingle and married men respectivelyare organized, one consisting ofmarried and the other singles, andthey play some different traditionalgames. Another interesting part of theceremonies is Dara Zavatiyê – hangingfruits, chocolates, clothes, ribbons, etcon a fake tree (although it’s notcommon in all regions).

The atmosphere is friendly; no one willobject to photographs and visitors willbe fed and expected or asked to join inthe dancing. In some of the villagesyou may hear or see gun shots fromsome of the guests to mark happinessfor the newly wed couple.

As is appropriate at a Muslim event,formally there is no alcohol inevidence, although some of the old andyoung men sneak off for secret tipples,if you are in to it, keep your eyes openand do have a look around for smallgroups of men away from the crowdwho act they are holding regulardrinks such as cola, with exceptions itmight be loaded with spirits.

In southeastern Turkey there are sev-eral traditional ways for marriages totake place according to local custom,not always sanctioned by state law,though comparing with the past manyof these arrangements are now dyingout and used rarely.

Beflik kertmesi (sozdayî): This couldbe said to be engagement at the cra-dle, and occurs when two familiesdecide to have newborn babiesbetrothed.

Kuma (hêwî): If a man finds out thathe cannot have any children with hiswife, it was possible that the man mar-ries an additional wife called kuma.

Bafll›k paral› evlilik (qelend): This isnot actually a form of arranged mar-

Wedding from Hakkari (41)

Dara Zavatiyê (42)

522

riage, but refers to when the family ofthe groom has to pay a certain amountof money to the mother of thebride-to-be so she can buy somethingfor the bride.

Berdel (berdêlî): This involves, forexample, a man marrying the sister ofhis brother-in-law, or a woman marry-ing the brother of her sister-in-law.

Kan bedeli evlilikleri (berdêlxwîn):When there is a blood feud betweentwo families, a woman can be givenaway as a bride in order to bringhostility to an end. Though sucharrangement is now dying out in mostareas.

Akraba evlili¤i (zewaca di nav mal-batê de): Common marriages betweencousins helped being arranged by thefamilies and in some cases by youngwho simply fell in love.

Kurdish local dances

Kurdish dances reflect samples ofKurdish life over the past thousands ofyears. Rhythmic and elegant move-ments are called Govend (dîlan). Theymay very well origin from geographicallocation, the Kurdish way of living,beliefs, work and struggle, war and

quarrel. The older ones generally likeslow dances like Delîlo, Giranî, Axayo,Keflo, etc. But the teens generallydance the too much active dances likeGovenda Di Cih De, fiêxanî, Eyflokê,Keçkeçikê, Lorkê, Bablekan, etc.Dancers link little fingers in a line,before advancing in step with muchshaking of shoulders and intricatefootwork. The heads of the groupsometimes come in the middle of thedance area; all the members of danceteam stay or seat at their places andwatch the personal shows of theleaders with clapping. Some of thedance leaders stage some traditionaldramas like the shepherd whosesheep were eaten by a wolf or asorrowful mother whose son has justdied, etc.

Kurdish dances group (43)

Kurdish dance from Diyarbak›r (44)

523

Hakkâri handicrafts

Hakkari city has a few placesselling local handicrafts. One ofthese is Soydan Kilimcilik, underthe fienler Murat Hotel; another isEge Kilimcilik on Bulvar Cad.

Among handicrafts made in theprovince are various woollenitems. Socks are made in a varietyof thicknesses for differentseasons and with rich, eye-catch-ing colours. A parzûn is a kind ofbag, also made with colourfulwool, which milkmaids (bêrîvan)use. As colourful as a kilim, thesebags are now being used by citywomen too.

Horses and mules used to beimportant for transport in thisupland region, and halters andsaddlebags (hevsar û heqîb/xurçik)were woven by women frommohair. Different tribes had theirown designs, so that people couldrecognise which tribe someonewas a member of from theappearance of their saddlebag.

Finally, in Hakkâri you will alsofind the traditional women’s cos-tume comprising fîstan, a kind oflong jacket, and kiras, a long ropeworn under the fîstan. Thiscostume, which can be of variousfabrics, may be plain or highlydecorated and colourful, buteither way it looks elegant. Theoutfit is completed with a scarfand a silver belt.

Kiras and Fîstan (46)

Parzûn (45)

524

Kurdish dance (47)


Çukurca (Çel)

The green hilly district of Çukurca(population 7,033) is located 80kmsouth of Hakkâri province and typicallyover 1000m above sea level. Çukurcatown, close to the Iranian andNorthern Iraqi borders, received asudden increase boom in its popula-tion now a day inhabited in the centreof the town due to the immigrationfrom villages in 1990s. The area ispoor for agriculture because of themountainous terrains, but it is well

known for its rice, pomegranate,sesame and tahini.

The district is home to some of theearliest Urartian settlements. Çukurcabecame a subdistrict of Van provincein 1880, and then was linked to theprincipality of Hakkâri, becoming adistrict of Hakkâri province only in1953. Interestingly, the area had a sig-nificant Jewish community until fairlyrecently.

Çukurca is reached by taking the leftfork at the Hakkâri-Çukurca-fi›rnakcrossroads (known as KöprülüKavfla¤›) and continuing for 25km. Theroad from the crossroads to the townheads south following the well-knownZap River; if you head east from thecrossroads you reach the Tiyar valley,home to various Nestorian Christianremains.

Çukurca Kalesi

This fortress is set on a hill northeastof town overlooking the centre and canbe reached using a road just oppositethe PTT (post office). It’s not clearwhen it was constructed; the similarity

A view near Çukurca (48)

Local man (49)

Hakkari/Çukurca 527

it shares with other fortresses in thearea is that it is built on a rockyoutcrop, in a commanding position.There is some evidence that it was anadministrative centre in the past.Inside the castle are four watercisterns, each 6m deep and 4m wide,reached by stone ladders.

Stone houses

There are many old stone housescalled Köflk (Qesir) at the foot ofCukurca Fortress, which are made upof stone blocks with flat earth roofs,and mostly two-storey. These histori-cal houses are the symbols of the dis-trict. Some sources say the housesonce belonged to Armenians and othersays Syrian Christians lived here. The18th-century Derviflo¤lu Mansion inthe Kale quarter is an example of oneof these houses, though now partlycollapsed; with three storeys, it has ashape similar to a tower and is built ofsmooth rubble stone. Another similarexample in the same quarter is thePiruzbeyo¤lu Mansion, thought to havebeen built at the end of the 18thcentury. The walls are partly ruined

and there are some trees growing inthe foundations. Enver Parlak House inthe Cumhuriyet quarter is also proba-bly 18th-century and has a rectangularplan, oriented east–west.

Emir fiaban’s Madrasah

It’s possible to see several examplesof religious architecture in the centreof the town. One of the most notable,and newly restored, is the 16th-century Emir fiaban Madrasah. Thecomplex contains a tomb, theologicalschool and a mosque. The madrasahis located in the town centre justopposite the municipality.

Çukurca Kalesi (50)

Stone houses in Çukurca (51)

Bet Biyya (Dêra Bé/ DêraBêadirê) Church

This church is located 10km away inDutluca (Bé) village northeast of thecentre, reached using an unsealedroad for Kurudere (Marûfan) village.Also called Bet Biyya, this is aNestorian church which once had thebest ornamentation of any church inthis region, though it has been dam-aged by treasure hunters. Still, the

church has a beautiful setting in agreen valley with orchards, though theowners of these groves now live else-where in the district and the villagehas been abandoned.

Kesra Mir Mansion (Qesra Mîrî)

Also known as Mir Evi, this house islocated on the high rocks on the southside of the Sidan Valley, which is withinthe Hawdikan quarter north of thecentre. Built of rubble stone, it has twobastions and a watchtower, but theupper parts of the walls havecollapsed. The house has perfect viewswith the Xaskêl rocks opposite; it’s noteasy to reach, but you can follow the


Emir fiaban’s madrasah (52)

Bey Biyya church (54)

The entrance of Bet Biyya Church (53)

path towards Hawdikan and then walkdown to the site.

H›z›r Peygamber Camii

To reach this mosque, you will need toget to Kazan (Tiyar) village some 28km north of Çukurca, then head toBenekli (Sîfsîdan) village (abandonedduring the unrest of the 1990s) bywalking up for around twenty minutes,following the river. The rectangularplanned mosque has been built in thename of Prophet H›z›r and once hadthree storeys, though only the groundfloor has survived the conflict.

Yaylak (Mezrî)

The most significant monastery churchof the region is Beruji, located on a hillin the northwest of the Yaylak (Mezrî),just before you reached Cevizli (seebelow). The monastery, called RabbanPetyus by Nestorians, can be reachedthrough a pathway on foot in about halfan hour. The monastery is partlyruined but the church is still intact.You may be surprised to find the treesornamented with colourful pieces ofcloth: this quarter is considered holyby both Muslims and Christians, andpilgrims come here to tie a piece acloth to a tree and make wishes.

Cevizli (Gûzêrefl)

The village of Cevizli, 40km north ofÇukurca town, is home to a couple of

sights. In the Piri quarter is thePirment (Haciment) Tomb, a one-storey affair with a place for prayer;the walls comprise large stone blocksand there is an earth roof. Some ruinsof houses and a mill can be seen tothe south and west. The only orna-mented part of it was its wooden door,decorated with inscriptions and motifsbut now kept in Van’s museum. Notethat the tomb is 4 km from the villageitself. If you visit, you may seemilkmaids, in Kurdish bêrîvan(see p: 496) doing their work next tothe site.

A church in the centre stands next to alarge walnut tree (Gûzêrefl,incidentally, means “black walnut” andthe village is known for its walnuts)and spring.

The Tiyar Valley (Geliyê Tiyarê)

This deep valley has many historicremains and was home to NestorianChristians for many centuries. As thevalley climbs into the mountains itgradually becomes narrower; some-times you can see what look likeruined watchtowers on both sides, andpaths carved into the rocks are clearlyvisible. After climbing a long way youcan see some remains of houses hereand there in a wider part.

Within the valley is a village, alsocalled Tiyar. Other villages in the valleyinclude Kurudere (Marûfan), Kavuflak

Hakkari/Çukurca 529

Cev

izli

(Gûz

êrefl

) vill

age

(56)

Qesra Mir mansion (55)

(Bilêcan) and Kavakl› (fiiviflk). There isa choice of routes. One goes to adistrict called Ertofl and the otherbears left to Cevizli (Gûzerefl) andÇeltik (Tixûbê), a place where tradi-tional dresses are woven and whichonce had a Syrian Christian communi-ty. There is a church in Tiyar similar tothat in Cevizli village but lesssubstantially built.

The Tiyar valley is also en route to theplateaus of Çukurca, and is the bestapproach to the plateaus on the westof the Cilo-Sat Mountains.

Mar fialita Church

This Nestorian church is inthe Çeltik (Tixûbê) quarterof Kayal›k village, in theCevizli (Gûzerefl) valley18km away northeast ofÇukurca town. Surprisinglystill intact, the church isrectangular and has threemonumental gates. Crosssigns have been inscribedon a stone in the south.There is also a cemetery inthe plain south of thevalley.

Geraflin Pastures(Zozanên Geraflîn)

The Geraflin Pasture, located on theGera and Cilo-Sat Mountains some45km away from Çukurca, gets itsname from that of the huge glacier ata high point of the pasture. Geraflin isquite rich in terms of water sourcesand large meadows, but the land iscovered with snow most of the timeand it can be used just for one monthin the year. To get there you will needto reach Cevizli village and continue bymule or horse, which can take sixhours if done at a relaxing pace.


Tiyar Valley (57)

Geraflin plateau (58)

Yüksekova (Gever)

Hakkari/Yüksekova 531

The largest district of the province(population 59,410), Yüksekova isdivided into plains, partly marshy andnearly 2000m above sea level, andmountains; the district town is around70km east of Hakkâri city by road, andis reached by turning off south at theYeniköprü Crossroads (at the beginningof the Zap Valley.

Petrolyphs found here date back to7000 BC and show how ancient settle-ment in the region is. The Urartiansestablished themselves here around10000 BC, and have left evidence oftheir presence in the strategic OrduYolu (military road) in the centre of thetown; the road actually starts close toLake Van and heads south through theKeleflin passage in the Cilo mountains.

If you want to enjoy a bird’s eye viewover Yüksekova town and lively Kurdishmusic, head to the park called ApêMusa Aile Park›.

The 24-hour border gate with Iran issituated in the village of Esendere(Geliyê Dilya), 40km east. The firstmajor city on the Iranian side is

Orumieh. Taxi and buses go toEsendere from the town’s otogar.

Güçlü (Peylan)

One of three historical cemeteries inthe district is in Güçlü village, 3km fromtown on the fiemdinli road. With manyhistorical gravestones, it is located on ahill to the northeast side of the village.Some sheep statues have beenremoved from the cemetery to decoratedoorsteps in the village.

Köprücük (Kerpêl)

This village, 7km out of town on the wayto Hakkâri, contains a two-roomedchurch on a hill in the centre. It differsfrom the other churches in the area asit is made from dark, smooth stone.

Young girls in Yüksekova (Gever) (59)

Iranian Border (60)

There are some decorated stones bothabove and to the side of the door.

Çukurca (Pagê)

This village, 11km away on the Vanroad, has an old cemetery that hasbeen divided by a road, with dug-upgravestones to either side (some havebeen removed by locals). Motifs ofhorses, chamois, swords and lancesare depicted on them.

Karabey (Serdeflt)

This village, some 20km fromYüksekova on the road to fiemdinli, hasa cemetery on its western side with sixold tombstones; look for motifs of guns,swords, keys and pitchforks depicted onthe stones.

Küçükdere (Oriflê)

This village, 20km west of town, ishome to a collection of ram statueswith carvings like the GeverokPetrolgyphs on their sides. The frontand back legs are separated from eachother with a gap, and the horns are

round and carved. A man rides one ofthe rams on one side of the collection,with a pike in his hand; on the otherside there are four people carryinground objects in their hands, tree rams,a dagger and a gun. There is anotherstatue similar to this one in the village


Yüksekova Güçlü (Peylan) village (61)

Grave stones (62)

of Gagewran. It is thought to havecome from the nearbyNestorian church.

H›rvata (Muflaflir)Remains

This historicalplace is situatedat the mouth ofthe Avifl Stream,20km west ofYüksekova near avillage calledBüyükçiftlik(Xirwate). Theremains are almost certainlythose of a Urartian citadelthe same time claimed tobe the centre of MuflaflirKingdom that is home toHaldi (the god of Sun), oftenmentioned in inscriptions.The remains have not beenexcavated, but if they aremuch of interest are sure tobe found.

fiavita Church

This is 38km fromYüksekova on the Hakkâriroad in beautiful, greenKolbafl› (fiavita) village(actually closer to Hakkâricity). The road to the churchrequires climbing.

The church has been builton a steep cliff to the southof the village, by the fiavita

Stream. You can reach it fromthe western side of the

rock. The precipice northof the church provides anatural defence.Accessible by a vaulteddoor in the west, thechurch has a nave andan altar, and two smallwindows in the westwall. Though plun-dered by treasureseekers, it remains inlargely in goodcondition.

Hakkari/Yüksekova 533

A motive from Yüksekova (63)

Church entrance (64)

fiölen Lokantas› (0438 351 43 79) on CengizTopel Cad serves traditional local fare such asperde pilav›, güveç, hafllama, lahmacun anddifferent kind of kebabs. Huzur Lokantas› (0438351 43 13) on Nedim Zeydan Cad also servesgüveç and hafllama plus different kind of grillsand kebabs.

On Cengiz Topel Cad inYüksekova town there are twothree-star hotels, the Oslo(0438 351 84 20) and the UfukZafer (0438 351 51 61), bothoffering rooms with TV and abreakfast restaurant.


fiemdinli (fiemzînan)

fiemdinli town is 122km east ofHakkâri city, part of a small district(population 11,727) within a trianglewhose borders were set by the 1936Ankara Treaty between Turkey, Iranand Iraq. The place gets its name fromthat of a tribe. The terrain here isscored with deep valleys and dottedwith high mountains, and the rich floralends itself to the production of goodhoney which is said to be curative forstomach and liver complaints. Alsoproduced here is excellent tobacco.

It is thought that this was an importantcentre at the time of the Urartians,and the district has hosted other civili-

sations too, including the Medes,Babylonians, Persians andMacedonians. Islam became the domi-nant religion after Muslim conquest,but there was a significant Christianpopulation here until the 1900s.

A researcher, Muvaffak Uyan›k, foundthousands of petroglyphs carved onthe rocks in the Geverok and TirflinPlateaus, west of the Cilo-SatMountains. There are nearly 4000 in allof these rock carvings, covering alarge area in what amounts to anopen-air museum. Most of them depictmountain goats, bison, scenes ofanimal being trapped, magic symbolsand stylised forms. The petroglyphsare only reachable after a three-hourhike from Meflelik (Herkî) village 18kmfrom Yüksekova.

Dêrarefl Church

This Nestorian stone church is on ahill in Yayla (Bedgaruk) village some3km away from the town centre. Thechurch is composed of three naves,two altars and an annex in the south-east. The building is made up of uncut


Kelat (65)

Winter in fiemdinli (66)

stones. Some black stone has beenused in the construction, hence thechurch’s name, meaning “blackchurch”. The church offers good viewsof Efkak (Kelê) and Goste (KurêMizgeftan) Mountains.

The Haruna and fiapatan Passes

The Haruna pass is 22km away fromfiemdinli on the road to Yüksekova,

and offers some nicefloral scenery if youdrive up in springand early summer,including wild rosesand fritillaries. Thefiepetan pass is12km from fiemdinli.Around 10km after youleave the pass you can reachan area recently planted withgrapevines. You can see Kurdishvillages of Iran and Iraq from here,whose people are from the sametribes as on the Turkish side ofthe border.

Tafl Köprü (Pira Begirtê)

The bridge is on fiemdinli Stream (orNer-i Derecik) 11km away on thehighway between fiemdinli and Derecik(Rûbarok), just before the turning forBa¤lar (Nehrî). Made of square stoneblocks, the bridge has a single archand is 11m high and 21m long. It isthought to have been built by SeyyidMehmed Sad›k and was restored forpedestrian use in 2002. The streameventually flows on into northern Iraq.

Ba¤lar (Nehrî)

The old town centre is a village calledBa¤lar (Nehrî), 15km west of thepresent centre. Here you can visit theKayme Palace (Kayme Saray›), said tohave been built by Seyyid Abdullah.The rectangular two-storey palace,used by the chief of the Nehrî Clan, islocated on the western side of thevillage houses. Built of beige stoneblocks, the palace was constructedbetween 1909 and 1911, according tothe inscriptions on both sides over themain gate. Today the walls have partlycrumbled and the roofing is collapsed.The two floors have the same plan,with two large halls in the middle and

four rooms each in the east andwest wings. Doors in the

middle of north andsouth facades enable

access.

Also here is atekke or dervishlodge located inKayme Palace

belonging to theNeqshbendi order. It

was set up at the start ofthe 19th century by Seyyid

Taha, who reconciled warring Kurdishclans and later on build up amadrasah that would be a spiritualbeacon for Kurdish homelands. SeyidAbdullah, the builder of the KaymePalace, was his one of his grandsons;

Hakkari/fiemdinli 535

Dêrarefl church (67)

Tafl Köprü (Pira Begirtê) (68)

A local and his children fiemdinli (69)

another was Seyit Abdülkadir, the lastpresident of the Ottoman senate. Heled short lived Kurdish rebellionagainst the Turks but arrested alongwith his son and was send in to exile tomainland Turkey in 1925, later on thesame year the father and son werereturned to Diyarbak›r and hangedthere. The tekke now amounts to scantruins in a mulberry grove, though thesite is green and atmospheric, with a

clear brook running through it, and ismuch visited by pilgrims.

The Kelat Palace and theGraveyard of Seyid Abdullah

All that survives of the Kelat Palace,located just behind the Kayme Palace,is part of the entrance on the southside. It once had three storeys and wasbuilt by Seyit Mehmet S›dd›k, a grand-son of Seyit Taha-i Hakkâri and theson of Seyit Übeydullah. The remainingfragments indicate that the walls weremade of stone blocks with hand cutlimestone for the outer coating.

By the Kelat Palace is a historicalcemetery with interesting gravestonesbearing 16 figures and Koranic verses.The most important one belongs toSeyyid Abdullah, who was an importantNeqshbandi figure.


The dervishes (72)

Nehri (71)

Remains of Nehri palace(70)

The grave of Seyid Abdullah(73)

A view from Mt Süphan and lake (1)

Formerly known as Tushpa, Vanwas the capital of the UrartianKingdom during the 11th centuryBC, which expanded into easternAsia Minor and came up against theHittites. The Urartians fell in the 7thcentury BC to the Scythians and anomadic group called theCimmerians, but their influence isstill felt in the many monuments andrelics they left behind in Van. With thecreation of the Kingdom of Armenia inthe 1st century BC, Van became anArmenian centre of power, a statuswhich persisted for ten centuries.To survive, the Armenian Kingdomestablished alliances with theByzantines, Romans and Persians,though they were subjugated by theArab invasions, and after the battle ofMalazgirt in 1071, the region wasdecisively taken over by the Seljuks. InWorld War I, the Russians occupiedthe region briefly and Van wasannexed to Armenia, but was quicklycaptured by the new Turkish Republic.

The province’s most famousgeographical feature is Lake Van,

Turkey’s largest lake, but almost halfof the province is mountainous (thehighest peak is Mount Tendürek at3542m) and a third of it consists ofplateaus. The terrain is ideal forbreeding livestock, and unsurprisinglythis dominates the local economy.One important crop is sugar beet,turned into sugar at a factory in Ercifl.Van Lake is an important source ofsoda. In addition the province has



979,671 (2007)

Average altitude

1725m

Area

19,069 square kilometers

Districts

Van, Bahçesaray, Baflkale, Çald›ran,

Çatak, Edremit, Ercifl, Gevafl,

Gürp›nar, Muradiye, Özalp, Saray

Economy

Livestock farming, Tourism,

Commerce, Industry.

Neighboring provinces

A¤r› (north), Hâkkari and fi›rnak

(south), Bitlis and Siirt (southwest)

At a

glance

Muradiye Waterfalls (2)

Van 541

Among the famous sons of Van isthe poet Feqiyê Teyran(1564–1632), probably born inBahçesaray (though Hizan in Bitlis isanother candidate for his birth-place). Feqî means “stu-dent of a madrasah” andhe chose this for his penname as he said a personis always a student andalways learning. Hispoems use a vernacularidiom rather than anyclassical forms, and manyhave been set to musicperformed by important Kurdishsingers. He was in contact withanother great Kurdish poet,Melayê Cizîrî (see p: 478), and attimes they came together to readtheir poems to each other.

Another well-known literary figurefrom Van is Yaflar Kemal, bornKemal Sad›k Gökçeli in 1923 to afarming family from Muradiye dis-trict, though he was actually bornin Adana province. In 1951, hemoved to Istanbul to work at thewell-known CumhuriyetNewspaper. His most popular novel,‹nce Memed, appeared in 1955,and over the subsequent 30 yearshe wrote more than30 books, manyturned into films.Nominated severaltimes for the NobelPrize for literature, heis in touch with his

Kurdish roots and is thus able towrite convincingly about the situa-tion of the Kurds in Turkey, includ-ing themes such as destitution, therelations between people and thefields, a¤as, life in the mountains,etc. He is also known of his role inthe nationwide campaign called‘’Turkey looking for its peace’’.

From the musical world, there is theArmenian singer Mehmet Ruhi Su,born in Van in 1912. His parentsdied in the conflicts of the time andhe was sent to an orphanage inAdana. After graduating from the

Ankara State Conservatory,he worked at the StateOpera and sang on nation-al radio until some of hispolitically tinged songs gothim fired. He served fiveyears in prison for beinginvolved with a leftistgroup. Later he composed

cinematic music and in 1975 hefounded Dostlar Korosu (the Chorusof Friends) with an artist, GencoErkal, to promote the popularmusic of Anatolia. He died in 1985.Van is also famous for its dengbêjtradition, and one of the greatestliving dengbêjs was born in theprovince in 1950, namely Kazo. Hewas born into a family of dengbejs;indeed his grandfather, EcemêKinik, was one of the best-knowndengbejs of his time. Kazo begansinging when he was a small childand made a large number of unoffi-cial cassettes. After the ban onKurdish was overturned at thebeginning of 1990s, he founded

a band, Komafiîrvan, with someof his own familymembers. Thesedays he lives in‹stanbul.

Some prominent people from VanYa

flar

Kem

al(3

)

Feqîyê Teyran (4)

Ruhi Su (5)


A view from Van city and Van citadel (6)

some iron and coal resources andprofits from cross-border trade withIran. Tourism is also not insignificantthanks to the scenic and historicalattractions of Lake Van.

For tourists, Van offers a real surfeit ofdelights. Van city is home to theamazing Van Kalesi, a massive citadelperched atop a rock just east of LakeVan, and makes an ideal base forvisiting the stunning Akdamar Church,sitting lonely on an island within LakeVan in mute witness to the nowvanished Armenian community. Thelake itself offers opportunities for birdwatching and will have shutterbugssnapping away happily, its blue waterslooking especially inviting against anencircling backdrop of snowy peaks inthe winter. Elsewhere in the provinceare yet more impressive fortresses,including the Kurdish Hoflap Kalesiand the Urartian Çavufltepe, whileGevafl has a Seljuk cemetery withextraordinary gravestones. In the sur-roundings of Van, you can head for thenice resort of Edremit, an ideal placefor swimming and camping, and withits beaches and ice-cream shops scat-tered along the lakeshore. If you ever

get tired of the lake and the monu-ments surrounding it, consider goingtrekking up Mount Süphan (Sîpan), thesecond highest mountain in Turkeyafter Mount Ararat, or heading to theMuradiye Waterfall, a highly popularspot for excursions. And you shouldfeel famished before you even startgetting to grips with all these sights,you can fuel up for a full day’s worth ofsightseeing on Van’s excellent break-fasts, featuring their own unusualingredients and known throughoutTurkey.

Van CityVan (population 331,986) is the sixthlargest city in Turkey and, surprisinglyfor such a remote outpost, a prettysophisticated affair too, its central gridof streets boasting a fair number ofsmart restaurants, cafés and shops. Ifyou’ve been wandering a while throughthe small towns of southeast Turkey,Van will seem a great place torecharge your batteries and its verymodernity will feel refreshing too afterconstant exposure to cave dwellings,old mosques and churches elsewhere.Though the city isn’t distinctive archi-

tecturally, it does boast a splendidsetting in a bowl encircled by moun-tains except to the west, where LakeVan sparkles just a few kilometresaway. The top attraction in the cityitself is Van Kalesi, from where youcan truly appreciate the spectacularsetting of Van, but the city also hassome interesting bazaars and amuseum to take in. Otherwise, Vanmakes an excellent base for day-tripsto attractions elsewhere in theprovince, notably Akdamar Church andHoflap Kalesi.

When arriving in downtown Van, thereare only a few streets to pay attentionto in order to get your bearings. Themain north–south street is CumhuriyetCad, whose northern end is near theYeni Cami. Nearly 1km south of here isa major intersection, with Kaz›mKarabekir Cad leading off to the west.Many of the town’s main hotels, eatingplaces, dolmufl stops and so forth arelocated on or just off these two streets.

Van Museum

Van’s museum (0432 216 11 39) ishoused in a plain-looking building oneblock east of Cumhuriyet Cad; to findit, head east from the mainCumhuriyet Cad/Kaz›m Karabekirjunction, turn left into the first sideroad and continue a minute or so untilyou see the museum on your left.

Within the grounds you will see threeram-shaped gravestones and, on theother side, cuneiform Urartian steles.

The museum is divided into archaeo-logical and ethnographical sections.On the lower floor you will find arte-facts from the early Bronze Age andNeolithic Period, including ceramics,needles, bracelets, weapons, figurinesand various gravestones are exhibitedthere. There are examples ofcuneiform epitaphs found in ÇavufltepeKalesi (see p: 576) and children tomb-stones and other stone figures fromthe Gevafl Seljuk Cemetery(see p: 562). Upstairs are Urartianartefacts plus steles from Hakkâri.

The ethnographic section includes anarea documenting the problems thatensued in the area during the chaos atthe end of World War I. The richexamples of local kilims, silverjewellery, handwritten books, clothes,copper pots, weapons and so forth areon display. Here you can also seesome old examples of samovars, high-ly decorated tea urns which have longbeen used in Van (a fact marked alsoby a giant samovar statue on one ofthe city’s streets), as they have inRussia and Iran.

The museum (0432 216 11 39) is openfrom Tuesday to Sunday between 8amand noon and from 1.30pm to 5pm.

Mala Dengbêj

Like Diyarbak›r, Van has a centre dedi-cated to the preservation of the deng-bêj tradition of singing (see p: 235). Youwill find it hidden away amongst theshops and internet cafés of themodern Özgür Shopping Centre on thewest side Cumhuriyet Cad, more orless opposite the tourist office. Fromground level, head up a couple offloors and you will find the dengbêjcentre behind a plain facade; in fact itlooks like an office from the outsideand you may have to ask people to

Van 543

Van Museum’s courtyard (7)

Lake Van and its islands

Lake of Van, called Van Gölü/VanDenizi (Kurdish: Gola Wanê,English: Lake of Van) by locals, isthe largest body of water inTurkey and the second largest inthe Middle East, with an area aslarge as 3,700 square kilometres.The lake was created by theexplosion of the Nemrut Volcano60,000 years ago. While the gor-geous blue lake water is mostappealing, it is not recommendedto swim and stay in it for longbecause it has high soda content.No wonder that women from theregion wash their carpets in thelake without detergent! Mostpeople also believe the reasonthat many children around thelake have blond hair is becausethey swim in lake which containshigh soda.

The lake has a maximum depth of451m, though the average depthis around 170m. It is bounded by

peaks on three sides, with plainsto the east; the best beaches areon the northern shores.

The lake has four islands, all ofthem accessible by boat.Akdamar, with its Armenianchurch, is by far the most famous,while the rest are Çarpanak(Gduts), Ad›r (Lim) and Kufladas›(Arter), also containing theremains of Armenian churches,but these are in a more advancedstate of disrepair than Akdamar,which was recently restored. Theislands are also on a migratoryroute for birds, especially gulls,and attract birdwatchers andother interested visitors in Apriland May.

There are also two smaller lakes inthe region worth mentioning:Erçek Gölü, 30km east of Van,with an area of 100 square kilo-metres, and Keflifl (Turna) Gölü,just 4 square kilometres in size.

Van lake and Akdamar island (8)

544

show it to you. Inside the place isplainly furnished but there arecushions and carpets to relax on and,of course, tea is available. The centrewas opened in 2004 and plays host toregular dengbêj sessions (divans), likeother dengbêj houses in the regionthere are some featuring female per-formers, though times and dayscan vary so you may need topop in more than oncebefore catching a ses-sion, or call 0432 21520 04 in advance tocheck what is hap-pening.

Bazaars andShopping

Van has five big bazaarsworthy of a browse. One ofthem is called Rus Pazar›(Russian Bazaar) and all are locatednext to one another on Hastane Cad.Here you can find wares from Iran andIraq, including wooden and ceramicsgoods and textile products.

There are also a number of fine carpetstores on Kilimciler Soka¤› betweenthe museum and M›s›r Çarfl›s› (EgyptBazaar). The carpets and rugs gener-ally come from Iran and also neigh-bouring areas of Turkey, such asHakkâri, and are available in a variety

of designs and in silk, wool or amixture of the two.

In addition there is the workshop ofthe Urartu Carpet Company (0432 21797 65 or 217 97 66), at the 7km markon the Van–Edremit road. Popular withtourists, it sells regional carpets andkilims in addition to ones from Iran

and Afghanistan. There isalso a workshop near

the shoe factory(kundura fabrikas›)which has beenopened throughan EU-supportedproject, teachingyoung people

the art of carpet-making.

Toprakkale

A Urartian citadel lies north-east of the centre, on top of a hillwithin the Zimzim range; it’s easilyseen from the city centre if you are ina tallish building. Cuneiform inscrip-tions indicate that the citadel was builtby King Rusa II (685–645 BC) and wasknown as “Rusahinli” meaning Rusa’stown. The citadel is 400m long and60–70m wide, and includes a templededicated to the God Haldi; unfortu-nately it is all closed to the public as itserves as a military base.

Van 545

Mala Dengbêj (dengbêj divan›) (9)

Traditional carpets(10)

Meher Gate

Also within a closed military zone, theMeher Kap› was the entrance to atemple built during the reigns of theUrartian Kings Ishpuini and his sonMenua. The temple was dedicated tothe Gods Haldi,Teifleba and fiiviniand the GoddessesArubani, Huba andTuflpea and 76 others,whose names are list-ed in a cuneiforminscription of 94 linesin the middle of thegate. The inscriptionsalso list the names and number ofanimals to be sacrificed for the gods,and give a list of mountains, river andtowns considered to be holy placeswhere animals should also besacrificed. Furthemore, the inscrip-tions recall the names of Ishpuini(whose reign started 822 BC) and hisson Menua (who reigned until 786 BC).The gate is north of the city centre inthe district of Akköprü, 700m west ofToprakkale.

Van Kalesi (Van Citadel)This jewel of Urartian architecturesprawls over an area 1200m long and120m wide, above an 80m-high hill.The citadel is also called the Rock ofVan and the Citadel of Tushpa, Tushpa

being the original name of Van. Thereare regular dolmufl (signed Kale) herefrom Marafl Cad and Beflyol in the citycentre; they will drop you at the east-ern end of the site, from where youwill need to make a slightly tedious1km walk west along the northernperimeter towards the lake. Herethere is a car park and a parklandarea from where you start the ten-minute climb up some rough stonesteps to the citadel entrance. If youtire easily or do not like heights, youmay allow more time and take extracare – the steps are steep in placesand sometimes in poor condition, andthe drops from the citadel down to theplains below can be sheer. On a hotday, be sure to bring drinking waterand a hat, and take things at a relaxed

pace. The site andsurrounding areacontain plenty ofinteresting Urartianremains, thougheverything is a bit ofa jumble and withno labelling, it canbe impossible tolocate things that

you are interested in. Allow a half-dayto do justice to the site. Whiledescending you will be able to seesome cuneiform inscriptions payinghomage to Persian King Xerxes of the5th- century BC.

The citadel is thought to have beenbuilt by King Sarduri between 840 BC


Van Kalesi (11)

Urartians inscription (12)

Van örnek evi (traditional Van house) (13)

and 825 BC and comprises an innerand an outer fortress. Plenty oflegends are associated with the site,including this one from a book called101 Anatolian Legends compiled in1915 by Mevlüt Okayer. Shah Abbas,the famous king of Persia, attackedthe citadel but could not capture it nomatter how hard he tried. One day oneof his soldiers approached and said,“There is a man named AbdurrahmanGazi in the citadel. We cannot seize thecastle without overcoming him.” ShahAbbas decided to test AbdurrahmanGazi by despatching an envoy carryinga grilled dog and a grilled lamb. InAbdurrahman Gazi’s presence, theenvoy announced that he had apresent from Shah Abbas, whereuponhe offered the dog meat and kept thelamb for himself. Abdurrahman said“Hoflflt” to the dog and it suddenlycame back to life. The ambassadorreturned and told Shah Abbas whathad happened, whereupon Shah Abbasdecided to end his seven-yearcampaign and return home.

Close to the start of the road up to thecitadel is the Tamara Kale Restaurant,with an outdoor café and a number ofgift shops where you can pick uphandcrafts from the region.

Anal› K›z Temple

The “mother and daughter” temple, asthe name translates, is located by theside of a local pilgrimage site at thestart of the main road to the citadel.Thought to have been built by KingSarduri II (765–735BC), it is composedof two niches containing two steles ofbasalt pedestals with cuneiformscripts, and a platform dedicated toperforming sacrifices. There are alsoseats for the spectators and a 20mlong canal that was used to collect theblood of sacrificed animals. The beliefwas that young women wading in thecanal would find a venerable husband.Some people today are saying that

young women come here if they wantto find a husband or if they have notbeen able to produce a male child.Locals also call the placeHazine Kap›s›.

A Traditional Van House

In the same area as the restaurant iswhat is signed “Van Örnek Evi”,meaning an example of a Van house,and fully furnished in a traditionalstyle. Next to it is a tendur, a clay ovenused to bake bread.

Sardur Tower (Sardur Burcu orMad›rburç)

At the western end of the citadel is theSardur Tower, built between 840 and830 under King Sarduri. The rectangu-lar tower is 4m high and consists ofmassive calcareous rocks stacked ontop of one another in a way character-istic of Urartian architecture. Look outfor one of the oldest survivingexamples of writing, and indeed theoldest Urartian inscription known, ontop of the tower. The inscription inAssyrian cuneiform praises the virtuesof King Sardur, calling him “the Kingof Kings”.

Although the tower was built early onduring the Urartian civilisation, it hasvery refined appearance with tidy rightangles and so on. Some of the blockshere were later recycled in thebuilding of the Surp Karapet Church.

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Sadur Tower (14)

‹çkale (Inner Castle)

The gate to the Inner Castle isaccessed from the western part of thecitadel at the highest point of the cliff.You can see the oldest temple and thefirst Urartian palaces in the innercastle, accessible with a little rampedway. It is believed that this was aformer Urartian temple dig directlyinto the rocks. The castle issurrounded by walls including the partside by side with the steep hill. Thewalls are up to 7-8m high.

The temple is made of two differentparts with the floor and the wallsengraved in the rocks. The otherinteresting thing to see in the innercastle is believed to be the oldestPalace of Tushpa. The very straight cutstones are almost as big as the onesused in the construction of theSardur Tower.

The Tombs of Sarduri I,Ishpuini and Menua

The Urartians were skilled stonecutters, usually working with lime-stone and sometimes volcanic stone

when it came to tombs. In the lowerpart of ‹çkale is the Tomb of KingSarduri I, situated on a large platformin the cliff overlooking the south. Fromthe platform you can access the tomb’sentrance gate with a few steps. Thetomb is composed of a main chamberwith four side rooms. A second tombaccessible by the same platform isbelieved to be the Tomb of King Ishpuiniand his son King Menua, who for a timegoverned together. This tomb has twomain rooms; the one with two subordi-nate funerary rooms is believed to be


Van Kalesi (15)

Way to tomb of Sarduri (16)

where King Ishpuini is buried while theother, with three side rooms, is believedto be where King Menua lies. The doorgiving access to the tombs is locked butthe key can be obtained from the ticketoffice, and a member of staff can escortyou on a visit.

The Tombs of Sarduri IIand Argiflti

The Tomb of King Argiflti (son ofMenua) nearby the western end of thecitadel is equipped with 34 rectangularniches which either served for crema-tion or for offerings to the deceased.You will have to go down the ancientsteps engraved in the rocks before youreach Argiflti’s Tomb, believed to dateto between 780 and 756 BC. The tomb

bears inscriptions (sometimes calledHorhor inscriptions) on each side whileabove the entrance there are inscrip-tions describing the political views ofthe king.

Yeni Saray (New Palace)

Yeni Saray is outside the uppermostpart of the citadel and extends as faras King Argiflti’s Tomb. The floor ismade of stone platforms and the wallsare carved into the rocks. Some partsare completely in ruins today and cannot be seen any more.

Cistern

A rectangular cistern was built withinthe rocks near the Ulu Cami in thenorth of the citadel. The steps carvedinto the rock here were left from theUrartian period and the lowerstructure was left from the OttomanEmpire. Its bottom part was built withsmooth stone blocks and the top wascovered with mud bricks.

Binbir Merdivenler (Thousandand One Steps Stairway)

Sultan K›l›ç Arslan (1092–1107) builtthis stairway, with twin rows of stairs,leading down to the Horhor Gardensand the lake from where soldierswould fetch water.

Van 549

Sarduri I, Ishpuini and meuna tombs (17)

A view from old Van (18)

Süleyman Hab Camii

The site of this mosque is believed tohave been a place of worship eversince ancient times and some peoplebelieve that there was a building hereat the time of King David (Davud inTurkish). The mosque was furtherrenovated under the reign of SultanSüleyman in 1533. The mosque offerssuperb unrestricted views over Van,the lake and the picturesque lakesidetown of Edremit to the southwest.

The eastern part of the Citadel

In the northeast of the citadel is therestored Galip Pafla Tomb, built in the19th century for the Governor of Van,

Galip Baba, while at the very easternend of the citadel is a large hall with78 niches, believed to have been usedfor cremations. The walls of the citadelbecome lower here and snake off intothe distance like a miniature GreatWall of China; looking east you getexcellent views of the modern city ofVan with the mountains looming in thedistance.

Van Kalesi Höyü¤ü (Tushpa)

Interestingly, excavations begun in1989 revealed that this tumulus wasconstantly inhabited from the earlyBronze Age up until the Middle Ages.Items found here included polychromeceramics from the 2nd century BC,plus Urartian relics. The site is oppo-site the ticket office for the citadel.

Old VanFrom Van Kalesi you get superb viewsof the undulating plain to the south,which was the site of the town of Vanuntil the early part of the last century.A thriving town with a significantArmenian population, it was razedduring the conflicts of the 1910s and


A top view of old Van from the Kale (19)

Van Kalesi (20)

the current city was founded severalkilometres inland; now just a handfulof monuments remain at the original,rather desolate site, which servesmainly as a pasture for shepherds andtheir flocks. You can get to old Van bytaking a Kale or ‹skele dolmufl fromBefl Yol in central Van; ask for EskiVan. View of Old Van is perhaps is oneof the most photogenic in your tripto Van.

Ulu Cami

You will only be able to see theminaret of this 12th-century Seljuk-style mosque, situated in Old Van. Theroof of the mosque, which was ruinedat the start of the last century, wasprobably flat and was supported bypillars, some bases of which are stillpresent. It is thought to have beenbuilt by rulers of the AhlatflahlarDynasty who once controlled Van.

Abbas A¤a(Kethüda Ahmet) Camii

This mosque is in the northwest of oldVan, near the Ulu Cami. Its architec-tural style suggests it was built some

time between the 7th and 11thcenturies. The walls of the rectangularconstruction, comprised of brick lowerdown topped with adobe, are stillsturdy but the roof has disappeared. Asemicircular mihrab sits just oppositethe door.

Kaya Celebi Camii

The mosque, with its beautiful dome,can be visited in Old Van. Originallythere was an intention to build amadrasah here, which was given upwhen the initiator of the project, KayaÇelebizade Koçi Bey, was sentenced todeath in 1660. Cem Dedemo¤luMehmet Bey took up the idea andcompleted a mosque and madrasah, ofwhich only the former survives. Nowdisused, the mosque is built withstones of two colours, giving it a

Van 551

Hüsrev Pafla Camii (21)

Mosques in Old Van (22)

striped appearance. Beautiful geomet-rical figures decorating the gates andwindows on the northern side.

K›z›l Camii (Red Mosque)

This ruined mosque is in the easternpart of Old Van. Renovated in 1534 bySultan Süleyman, it gets it name fromthe fact that red bricks decorateits beautiful minaret, which can stillbe seen.

Hüsrev Pafla Cami

This mosque is of such beauty thatsome people claim that it was built byMimar Sinan, the master Ottomanarchitect. Hüsrev Pafla was one of theBey (leaders) of the region who servedas governor of Van for some time, andhe ordered the construction of amosque complex in 1567, including amadrasah, a fountain, a primaryschool, an inn for travellers andhamam; now only the mosque, itsminaret and an attendant tombsurvive. The mosque is also known asHüsreviye or Kurflunlu Camii.

Çifte Kilise

The remains of this pair of churches,wrecked by an earthquake in 1844, aresouthwest of Red Mosque and usuallycalled Çifte Kilise (“Double Churches”).According to plans, the Surp PaulosChurch was rectangular and coveredwith a dome, but the only parts left arethe stone walls and plenty of rubblefrom the dome and vaults. The SurpPetros Church is linked to the southwall of Surp Paulos, but you can’t seemore than the apse and a wall of it.

Surp Vartan Church

Surp Vartan is in better condition thanÇifte Kilise and thus worth visiting. Thechurch comprises a vaulted narthex, anoose and an apse. There aretwo-storey pastophorion rooms oneach side of the apse.

Miri (Arpa) Storehouse

Located on the north side of Old Van,and partly acting as a retaining wall,this rectangular construction is sup-posed to have been built during the16th or 17th century, and is composedof three sections partitioned by walls.A stairway on the south part wouldhave led up to the roof, except that theroof is now completely absent.


Ground view of Old Van (23)

Hüsrev Pafla Camii (24)

Van Breakfast

Van Cats

Van is well known for its breakfastserved in kahvalt› salonu (breakfastsalons) throughout the city. The firstsuch place was opened to cater forvillagers selling their goods in thebazaar in the early hours; nowadaysthe salons are spreading throughoutthe country.

The classic Van Breakfast featureshoney from Hakkâri and Bitlis,cheese with herbs, cream, butter,omelettes, halva, tahini and rosejam. Van breakfast also featuresunusual ingredients like javut andmurtu¤a on the top of this list.Kavut is a kind of flour which is fried

in ghee. Kavut can be eatenwith only bread but it is alsoeaten with honey \or jam.Murtu¤a is made by burning theflour with butter on egg.

You may also find an unusualtea in Van, drunk with rosepetals; the rose petals are mixedwith lemon juice, sugar is added

and then the mixture is added tothe tea.

The saloons usually open very earlyin the morning and close in theafternoons. Good choices are BakHele Bak Kahvalt› Salonu, onCumhuriyet Cad, under the VanMunicipality Building, near the VanMuseum and the tourism informa-tion office (0432 214 29 38), SütçüFevzi Erol Kardefller Kahvalt› Salonu,on Cumhuriyet Cad, Eski SümerbankStreet, No:9 (0432 216 66 18) andSütçü Kenan Öz Erol Kardefller,Kahvalt›c›lar Cad, off theCumhuriyet Cad.

Van is also the home of a particularbreed of white cat with beautifulsnow-white fur, eyes which are dif-ferent colours, a long bushy tail andthe ability to swim. Most of themare also deaf; though they have akeen sense of smell. Some havedark spots on their head and tails.They are friendly, like to be paidattention to and can be jealous iftheir owner likes children or othercats. According to legend, thesecats are from Noah’s Ark, and theirunusual features are holy signs. Thecats are facing extinction and nowhave protected status. In the mid-1990s the "Van Cat House", a VanCat Breeding and Research Centre,was established within the campusof Van University (Van Yüzüncü Y›l

Üniversitesi). Large numbers of catsare cared for inside a large cage andthey can be visited from 8 to 5pmeveryday.

Van breakfast (25)

Van Cat (26)

553

Accommodation

Places to eat

Van municipality: 0432 216 73 40 Tourist information: 0432 216 36 75

Being right in the southeastern corner of Turkey, Van is most convenientlyreached by air. Both Turkish Airlines and Pegasus operate flights from Ankaraand ‹stanbul, while Sun Express flies from Antalya and ‹zmir. Van’s airport is8km southwest of the city (0432 217 02 94). There are of course buses frommajor Turkish cities and neighbouring countries. The otogar is in the ‹stasyonquarter.

Van is on the rail network, and ‹stanbul–Tehran, ‹stanbul–Tabriz andTehran–Damascus services stop here. There are services from Tabriz in Iran andfrom Damascus in Syria. For details, contact the train station near the otogar(0432 223 13 80).

There are also ferries between Van and Tatvan on the western shore of LakeVan, sailing in conjunction with trains and taking around four hours; it is usuallyeasier to travel to Tatvan by bus.

A good bet is the centrally located, modern Akdamar Otel on Kaz›m KarabekirCad (0432 214 99 23, www.otelakdamar.com), with reasonable rates. There isalso the four-star Büyük Urartu Oteli on Cumhuriyet Cad (0432 212 06 60,www.buyukurartuotel.com), with its own swimming pool. Finally there is thebudget Güzel Paris, simple but comfortable and popular with tourists (0432 21593 28); it’s located on ‹rfan Bafltu¤ Cad, not far from the northern end ofCumhuriyet Cad, which also offers an exceptional great choice of other middleclass hotels.

The Milya Et Restaurant on Cumhuriyet Cad (0432 216 62 10) serves differentkind of kebabs, grills, fried vegetables, and homemade güveç, hafllama (meatstew) and kavurma (small pieces of casseroled meat). They also serve varioussoups in the mornings. Also on Cumhuriyet Cad is the Güven, one of severalgreat patisseries in Van, with a luscious selection of cakes in the displaycabinets downstairs. They do a range of pizzas and sandwiches too and excellentsüpangle. The Kebabistan Et Lokantas› on Marafl Cad, Bilal Sok (0432 214 22 73),offers many types of kebabs in addition to lahmacun and pide.

Getting thereSunset over Ferry port (27)

Van Kalecik and Obelisks

You can see the obelisks lined up in theplain around the fiahba¤› ve S›¤›rTepesi , 2km north of Van and accessi-ble by the A¤r› highway leading fromVan. There were originally more than2000 obelisks of at least 1m in height,spaced at 50cm intervals; now thereare about 20 left. In the same plain,approximately 150m west, is anecropolis with 18 stone graves.

Tilkitepe Tumulus (Girê Rovîya)

This mound is 25km from the city,beyond the airport and on the route toHoflap Kalesi. The remnants found herego back as far as the 4th century BCand brought extremely useful informa-tion on settlements in Anatolia of thetime. The first of three layers foundyielded the remnants of ceramics closeto the exceptionally fine ones found inthe Halaf Culture from Tell Halaf innortheastern Syria. The second layeryielded handmade ceramics believed tobe from the Karaz Culture orTranscaucasia. The third layer providedinteresting stone remnants and obsidi-an, which was probably used as a rawmaterial for the production of glass.

Minua (fiamran) Canal

This irrigation canal, one of themiracles of Urartian ingenuity, startsfrom the village of Kaymaz (Mecingir),6km southwest of Gürp›nar town (seep: 574), and continues up until Van, adistance of more than 50km. It wasbuilt during King Menua’s reign(810-785BC) and runs over more than50km. There are 15 inscriptions alongthe canal, praising the God Haldi whoallowed King Ishpuini, son of KingMenua, to succceed in this ambitiousconstructional feat.

Yonca Tepe Kalesi

This fortress, 9km southeast of Vancity, is where archaeologists beganexcavating the water distributionsystem of the Urartians in the mid-1990s. The fortress was located at astrategic point where water from boththe Varak and Erek Mountains couldbe tapped easily. The ruins of an olddam (labelled Harabe Baraj› andthought to be the very first which theUrartians built in the region) lie 800mnorth of the fortress itself. Somestones from here bearing inscriptionsabout King Menua were used to build


From Van Museum (28) Yedi Kilise entrance door (29)

Varak Monastery (see below).Excavations of the site yielded pottery,bones, some jewellery and manyrooms and storage chambers.

Varak Monasteryand the surrounding area

This monastery, also called Yedi Kilise,has a beautiful setting beneath theErek Mountains and is easilyaccessible 10km southeast of Van inthe village of Yukar› Bakraçl› (Varak).The complex is composed of threechurches, a jamatun (entrance hall)and a library. A story has it that themonastery was once a repository for apiece of the true cross; the churcheswere added successively, with StSophia dating from the 8th century andprobably the oldest. Look for beautifulmurals of Jesus and the Virgin Maryand lovely stonework. Some parts ofthe dome are in ruins and everything isin need of restoration. The churchesattract a number of Christian visitors,mainly Armenians from Armenia orthe diaspora. Just 1km east is aUrartian fortress, Yoncatepe Kalesi(Kela Girê Yoncê), still being excavated.

Another group of churches is believedto have been built between 1003 and1021 and comprises the churchesaround Mother Mary Church, 5kmaway (there is no road access, but youcan reach them after an hour’s walk).

It is believed that the churches wereordered by the Vaspurakan KingSenokerin Hovhannes. It wasaltogether abandoned in 1915. Afamous theologian of Islam in modernTurkey, Said Nursi (see p: 461), chosethis place for a two-year retreat. Lateron in life he was sent to jail by thegovernment for an alleged involvementin Sheik Said’s Rebellion, spreadingKurdish nationalist ideas and thoughtsas well as high religious stance.

Keflifl Gölü

Also in the same mountain as thesecond of group of churches (YediKilise) near the village of Gölard›, islocated Keflifl Gölü (also called Hermitand Turna Gölü). The amazinglybeautiful lake is nearly 2650 metersabove the sea level. Although one hourwalk from the village but surely worthin taking this trip, it’s more then likelythat you will be invited to a cup of

Van 557

Yedi Kilise (31)

Yonca Tepesi Kalesi (30)

freshly made tea and cheese by thenomadic Kurds who set camp near thelake with their herds.

Anzaf Kalesi

Around 10km northeast of Van, acces-sible via the Van–Özalp highway, is thiscitadel which was originally found bypeople exploring illegally. It has anupper (Yukar› Anzaf) and lower (Afla¤›Anzaf) section, the latter surroundedby walls on a rectangular plan, with atotal area of 70x125m. The citadel waspartly demolished during the construc-tion of the highway. The upper part isin the village of Dereüstü (Yukar›Anzaf) on the right of the road if you’reapproaching from Van city; follow thesigns after 10km and take the unsur-faced road before you reach thevillage. The lower part is 1km away inthe village of Gölyaz› (Afla¤› Anzaf) onthe left of the road from Van.

The excavations on the citadel havebeen going on since 1991. The lowerfortress is believed to have been built

by the Urartian King Ishpuini in the 9thcentury BC, while the upper section,some 700m further south on top of asteep hill, is thought to have been builtduring the reign of Ishpuini’s son,Menua and used throughout theUrartian period. It has two entrancegates and walls only on itswestern side.

The temple dedicated to Haldi is one ofthe most interesting parts of the site;it’s reached through a corridor fromthe western part of the upper fortress.The stone here has been polishedsmooth, and various bronze objectsand arms with inscriptions that werefound in the temple greatly helped tobroaden scientific knowledge on theUrartians. The inscriptions found hereare well preserved and can be seen inthe Museum of Van.


Çarpanak island (32)

Inscription, Anzaf Kalesi (33)

Children near Anzaf Kalesi (34)

The Urartians were architectural pio-neers and another interesting featureof the citadel is the presence of toiletsat the very western end and a septictank outside the citadel walls.

Around 150m down from the upperfortress are the ruins of a Urartian citywhich imparts something of what lifemust have been like all those centuriesago. It has not been properly excavat-ed, while excavations elsewhere on thesite only began in 1991 and areongoing.

Hazine Piri Gate

This gate, symbolising an Urartiantemple, is accessible from the villageof Elmal› (Zivistan), 12km southwest ofthe Citadel of Van. The temple is simplya niche, 6m by nearly 3m, engraved incalcareous rocks with a cuneiforminscription praising King Sarduri. Thetemple is probably not a worship placein contrast to Meher Gate.

Çarpanak Island

This picturesque island with its almondtrees is home to what is left of theGarabed Monastery, which was gradu-ally developed during the apogee of theArmenian Kingdom of Vaspurakan. Itsuffered major damage in an earth-quake in 1703, was largely repairedbetween 1712 and 1720 and was aban-doned in 1918. Only the 10th-centurychurch dedicated to the Virgin Marystill stands, and it is well preserved,with its jamatun (entrance hall), library,guesthouse and rooms for monks.

The island is reached by ferry from thevillage of Dibekdüzü (Anavank), nearly20km northwest of Van city, with a30min ferry trip (to be arrangedprivately from ‹skele) or by driving toErcifl, then taking a ferry. The name ofthe island is probably a corruption ofçarkhapan, meaning something like“covering the sins”.

Ad›r Island

The southern part of this island hassome remains of the 10th-century StGeorge church and St Sion Chapel,reached through a pleasant area withmany beautiful almond trees. Therealso used to be a monastery herewhere Krikor Narekatsi (Gregory ofNarek), a religious mystic andprominent Armenian religious poet ofthe 10th century, grew up. His mostfamous work is the Book ofLamentations, a mystical poemconsidered a masterpiece of Armenianliterature. The island is accessible bymotorboat from the district of Döseme(Tevledi) in the village of Yayl›yaka(Ad›r), more than 30km north of Van.

Ayanis Kalesi

This Urartian fortress is 35km north ofVan and 250m above lake level nearthe village of Ayanis (A¤art›). It hassteep slopes to the west and north-west, and is protected by walls in thesouth and east. Cuneiform inscriptionsno less than 14 lines long, found in thecitadel, stated that it was built by KingRusa II (685–645 BC), son of Argiflti.There is temple dedicated to Haldi inthe eastern part of what is calledPayeli Salon in the upper part of thesite. The temple looks like a tower andhas lost its roof, but look out for the16m long inscription on thewestern side.

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A fisherman from Van (35)

If you are considering a nice and relax-ing weekend then beach side town ofEdremit is the place for you. Thetouristy town of Edremit (population12,247), 20km southwest of Van, fea-tures some beautiful beaches and wildnatural beauty, and has been deemedby some national papers as one of thenicest small towns in Turkey.

The history of the town goes back asfar as the Urartians. For a time it wasthe Armenian town of Artemit, fromwhich the name Edremit probably

derives. The Minua Canal (see p: 556)passes through the district, and thereare mosques in the villages ofHarabeköy (Harabedar), Dönemeç andBakac›k as well as the remains ofchurches that you can visit. The tombsof fieyh Babo and Yeflil Sultanin the Eski Camii district arepilgrimage sites.

Taflkale Kalesi

Well signposted Taflkale is a highslope that you can observe the view ofthe Edremit beaches and Van Lake. Donot expect to see much of the fortressas it’s in ruins. Seats are to be foundthere if you wish to enjoy the view ofthe lack. The hill also provides youwith the excellent spot to photographthe lakeside.


Being something of alakeside resort,Edremit has plenty ofrestaurants serves dif-ferent kind of grills,homemade foods, fishand so on.

A good choice is thelakeside four-star OtelMerit fiahmaran (0432312 30 60, www.merit-sahmaranotel.com),which is only 12km fromVan city.


Edremit (Erdêmed/Artemêtan)

Edremit Lake Van (36)

Swimming in lake Van (37)

A traditional meal (38)

Van/Edremit/Gevafl 561

The small, pretty town of Gevafl is40km southwest of Van. The oldArmenian name for the district(population 11,042) is Vostan, andthis was an important centre ofpower for the Armenians in the5th and 6th centuries.

The beautiful mountainous land-scapes of Gevafl served as anatural stage for the Turkishblockbuster Vizontele (Y›lmazErdogan, 2001), about how life in asmall Hakkâri village is affectedafter one inhabitant acquires thevillage’s first television set.

You can stay at the GevaflÖ¤retmenevi, in the Ortacaquarter (0432 612 31 06), whichhas over 20 rooms with twin bedsand TV, and a restaurant.

‹zzettin fiir (fiêr) Camii andMadrasah

fiir ‹zzettin (‹zzettin the Lion orYezdan fiêr in Kurdish) was aKurdish Emir of Hakkâri, and themosque that bears his name canbe visited in the Karfl›yaka (Hêflet)quarter of central Gevafl. The

Since the first alleged sighting ofthis creature in 1995, many people– mostly locals – claim to have seena beast in the lake, nearly 15km andwith spikes on its back, not unlike adinosaur. The Turkish governmentdespatched a scientific team to thearea but they found nothing. Thenin 1997 Ünal Kozak, a teachingassistant at Van University, capturedwhat he said was the creature onvideo, but his film was the object ofsome skepticism, as it only showsthe monster moving in a straightline. Whatever the truth of thesightings, the mere talk of the mon-ster has probably lured sometourists to Van province. Nowadaysthere is a four-meter-high statute ofthe creature on display in Gevafl atthe entrance to the town.

Gevafl (Westan)

Akdamar island and Church (39)

Van lake monster (40)

Lake Van Monster

mosque, usually called‹zdiflir by the locals, istypically Seljuk in styleand has a madrasahnext door. An inscrip-tion at the top of themain entrance indi-cates that the mosquewas built in 1257. The courtyard of themadrasah is accessible through a doorin the western side of the mosque’snorthern area. A damaged inscriptionon the west portal of the madrasahstates that the madrasah was added tothe mosque in 1594–1595. Severalrestorations have changed the originalprofile of the complex; for example, aminaret which cannot be seen in oldpictures was added to the west side ofthe mosque. The mosque was mostrecently restored in 2005.

Hiflet (Hêflet) Kalesi

A narrow road right opposite ‹zzettinfiir Camii leads to this fortress,situated 2.5km northeast of town on aslope overlooking the plain down toLake Van. The fortress is in ruins andfarming has obliterated most of thetraces, but the style of the survivingwall and some other clues indicatethat the castle has been used by theSeljuks and Ottomans. Some canals

carried water from the source in thesouth of the fort.

The Seljuk Cemetery and HalimeHatun Tomb

The Tomb of Halime Hatun, fiir‹zzettin’s daughter, is the highlight ofthe Seljuk Cemetery (SelçukluMezarl›¤›, also called Gevafl HifletCemetery or Gevafl Hiflet Mezarl›¤›),2km south of Gevafl town. Thecemetery itself is not unlike that inAhlat (see p: 454) in that it is full ofornamented graves, in this case datingfrom the 14th century; however, thewhite marble gravestones are different

from those in Ahlat.

Halime Hatun, some-times called Celme

Hatun, who was thedaughter of powerfulKurdish Emir, fiir‹zzettin, the tomb isplainly visible fromthe main road along

the shores of Lake Van, the tomb has adodecagonal (12-sided) plan and aconical roof, making it look not unlikea gigantic stubby pencil. Note the finedecorations in the exterior stonework,in particular around the windows. AnArabic inscription on the lintel of the


‹zzeddin fiir Camii (41)

Inside the Camii (42)

Halime Hatun Tomb (43)

front door states that the tomb wasordered by Melik ‹zzettin for HalimeHatun and completed in 1335. Anotherinscription over the south windownames the architect, PehlivanHavendo¤lu Esed from Ahlat, and averse from the Koran appears betweentwo bands of floral ornamentationaround the tomb.

The tomb was first explored at thebeginning of the 19th century when itattracted the attention of W.Bachmann, who extensivelyresearched the Van region. Today itlooks particularly appealing againstthe backdrop of snowy mountains inwinter, but unfortunately new buildingsspringing up close by have seriouslycompromised the atmosphere of thesite. In summers be aware of endlessnumber of flying insects around thetomb.

Akdamar Church

The Armenian Akdamar Church,marooned on a lonely island close tothe southern shore of Lake Van, is themost beautiful example of Armenianarchitecture visible in Turkey. Even ondays when the site is busy withvisitors, the church’s isolation and thesight of the blue waters and distantencircling mountains are awe-inspir-ing, and can reduce many people to areverential hush as they wanderaround.

The island was initially known asRfltunik Adas›. According to a tale, aman was longing desperately for hisbeloved, Tamara, who was so beautiful

that she was kept isolated by herfather on the island. In his despera-tion, her lover threw himself into thelake and was shouting “Ah, Tamara!”,which later became corrupted toAkdamar. The island subsequentlycame under the rule of King GagikArdzruni (705) who decided that theisland should become the capital of hiskingdom. It was heavily damaged inthe 16th century during the fightingbetween the Ottomans and theSafavids. After 1535, the islandbecame inhabited only by monks, wholeft the island after the events of 1895and 1915.

It is believed that the church was builtto preserve the Holy Cross in 915–921,by a priest called Manuel on theorders of King Gagik I. First used asthe church of a palace belonging toKing Gagik I, it became a monastery in

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A detail from Halime Hatun Tomb (44)

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1113. The church was for centuries theseat of a separate Armenian churchleader, the Katholikos of Akdamar. Itwas abandoned after 1915, in the1950s, when the country was trying todestroy the Armenian legacy on itssoil, the church was earmarked fordemolition but unlike Narek Monasteryin the Gevafl village of Yemifllik(Narek), it survived. The novelist YaflarKemal relates in his memoirs how itwas saved by the intervention of a locallieutenant who alerted the media. Thechurch was then left to rot for years,before being restored and opened tovisitors in 2006 with a public ceremonythat attracted much media coverage.

The church has a cruciform plan, twoentrance portals and a single domecovered with a pyramidal roof. Theexterior decorations, depict Biblicalscenes, are of particular beauty. Onthe northern facade can be seen,amongst others, St Mark and Adamand Eve; on the eastern façade St Johnand St Luke, the Prophet Samuel andDavid (with slingshot) and Goliathappear; the Virgin Mary holding thebaby Jesus, Abraham sacrificing hisson and Daniel in the lion’s den can be

seen on the western facade. In con-trast to the excellent condition of theexterior stonework is the church’sinterior, where the murals are largelyobliterated; all that can be seen noware shabby patches of blue and black,though it’s easy enough to pick outwhat look like saints and Biblicalepisodes depicted on the walls.

In the grounds around the church canbe seen many khatchkars, blocks ofstones, now often mossy, into whichcrosses and beautiful patterns of linesand rosettes have been carved; somelook positively Celtic and would not


Akdamar Port (46)

Details from Akdamar Church (47)

look out of place in an Irish monasticsetting. Before leaving the island, youcan have a drink at the small café orgo for a walk among the island’salmond trees for a majestic view of thechurch against the lake andmountains.

Ferries for the island depart from asmall jetty a few kilometres west ofGevafl (0432 216 1505). In summerthere is transport here from Van city,but at other times of year you mayhave to take a dolmufl to Gevafl, then asecond dolmufl which can drop you atthe jetty on its way further west. Thefare for the ride to the island, whichtakes around 20 minutes, is around5TL per person if the boat is fairly full.In the off-season you may have to waitan hour or more for enough people toshow up for the boat to depart, thoughif you are in a large group you canalways negotiate an immediatedeparture if you are willing to pay ahigher fare.

Mount Artos (Çad›r)

In the southern part of Gevafl district isMount Artos (3700m), the secondhighest peak of the Kavuflsahap range.It ranks after Mount Süphan-Sîpan-(see p: 457) in terms of its naturalbeauty, and interest in the peak hasgrown in recent years with the growthin opportunities for climbing and ski-

ing. There are many routes with broad,straight paths to the summit, but thenorth side of the mountain isrecommended for its wonderful views.Once at the summit you can see therest of the mountain range to the westand in clear conditions you can alsosee the peaks of A¤r› to the north.

Thirty minutes’ drive (there is no publictransport) from the police post inSelimbey, Gevafl, you enter a broadvalley. It is possible to reach thepinnacle from both sides of the valley,the route on the left being longer andsteeper, though both routes have greatviews. It’s a good idea to ascend theleft side, on which route you reach thewindy pinnacle after a 5-hour climb.

Arter Island

About 4 km west of Akdamar Islandthere is another, smaller island. Hereyou will find the ruins of a smallchurch, according to legend it wasfounded in the 10th century. There areno regular boat services to the island.Boats should be privately arranged atthe Akdamar ‹skelesi.

St. Thomas Monastery

About 30km from the Akdamar ‹skele-si, on the Alacabük Promontory liesthe impressive monastery of St.Thomas. Still surrounded by protectivewalls, it is located on a hill about 250mabove the Van Lake, offering a magnif-icent view over the lake. This is one ofthe best preserved Armenian churchesin the Van area. To reach it follow themain road to Tatvan until you get tothe village of Göründü (Muhrabit).From there follow the small roadalong the lake to Alt›nsaç (Genzek)village. The church is about 3kmnorthwest of the village. In Alt›nsaçvillage another ancient church can befound. The Alacabük Promontory wassomething of an Armenian Athos, withat least 5 monasteries.

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Saint Thomas monastery (48)

The little-explored district ofBahçesaray is 106km southeast of Van,with a population of 3,622. Until theopening of new Hizan road in 2004, thisused to be one of the most inaccessibleplaces in Turkey. The old road to Vancrosses a mountain pass at 2985 andused to be closed for more than halfthe year because of snow. A well-known saying, “Mukûs [Bahçesaray]salê heflt mehan girêdayî bi Xwedê veye, çar mehan girêdayî bi Wanê ve ye”reflects the climate, stating that thedistrict is only connected to Van forfour months a year and the rest of thetime is connected to God.

Bahçesaray’s old name was Moks orMüküs, meaning either tax or tax col-lecting in Arabic. The history of thetown goes back to the ArmenianVaspurakan Kingdom, and thehistorical Armenian presence can beseen in the remains of number ofmonasteries and churches. In 977, theprince of Moks, Zapranik, was inconflict with the Byzantines. The areawas then taken over by the son of

Sultan Alparslan in 1064 and wasunder the successive rule of theSeljuks, Ayyubids, Karakoyunlus,Akkoyunlus and Safavids. In 1539 theOttomans took the area temporarilyfrom the Safavids but retired from Vanbecause of growing problems with theking of Austria, returning permanentlyin 1548.

Koçer (Kurdish nomads) use to settlehere in hot summers, but avoid thearea in winter since Bahçesaray, withan altitude of more than 2900m, isnotorious for its bitter winters. It is saidthat you can ski here until the start ofsummer, and indeed skiing is quite a


Bahçesaray (Muskî/Miks)

Shepherd (49)

Nomads life (50)

hobby for the locals, butserious investments wouldbe needed for it to fulfil itscommercial potential.

Bahçesaray was somethingof a religious retreat for along time and this statustogether with the long coldwinters created a taste forchess, which was judged notdamaging to faith. This was also a timewhen gambling was forbidden, yetbetting on chess was allowed since it isa strategic game rather than one ofchance. It is still a very popularpastime in the region (with a MunicipalChess Festival organised in July), andlocals will be happy to challenge youto a game.

There is not much to see inBahçesaray town itself, with its singlemain street lined with teahouses. Thetown sits in a beautiful green basinplanted with walnuts and mulberries;in fact the district accounts for 4% ofall the walnut trees in Turkey, a factwhich has given rise to a woodcarvingindustry in the area, producing itemsfor the kitchen and bathroom inparticular. You can for example visitBahçesaray Ceviz Ahflap ‹flleri Atölyesi,a grassroots crafts workshop whereyou will find very nice examples of localwares. This is also a sociallyresponsible enterprise, employingdisadvantaged people from the region.It is centrally located at the town’sprimary school (yat›l› bölge okulu).

Mir Hasan Veli Madrasah(Medreseya Mîr Hesenê Welî)

Located in the cemetery in the Islamquarter and close to the entrance tothe town, this ruined madrasah isbelieved to have been built by MirHasan Veli during the 16th century. Itwas originally a külliye (a complex witha mosque, hamam, school and so on)but all that can be seen now are the

remains of the mosque inthe midst of walnut trees.This was a two-storeybuilding, restored in 1737and in 1858; now only theground floor survives,accessible through a doorin the middle of thesouthern section. The twolarge rooms on either side

of the main hall were the classrooms.On the north side of the courtyard werefive rectangular planned rooms in aline, covered with barrel-vaulted roofs;three of these rooms still stand. Localsrefer to it as Mir Hasan Veli Zaviyesi,the small dervish lodge of Mir Hasan.Nearby is the Tomb of Mir Hasanhimself.

Red Mosque (K›rm›z› Cami)

Located in the Kale quarter, themosque was built on three levels byone of the Müküs leaders in the 17thcentury. What left now are some partsof the western wall and the mihrab,ornamented with Islamic motifs in bluecolours. The mosque had a rectangularplan and a flat roof which is supportedby the wood pillars inside. It is believedthat the mosque was converted from achurch. A ruined fortress can also beseen nearby.

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Mir Hasan Veli Tomb (52)

St Jacques Church (Deflt Kilisesi)

This ruined church, which is known tohave been in use in the 17th century, isabout 500m southwest of the town cen-tre and can be reached by a good road.A few walls and the flat roof partlysurvive. Look for a number of beauti-fully ornamented crosses and otherreligious symbols on thewalls and the stones nearthe main door.

K›z›lköprü(The Red Bridge)

This bridge, built betweenthe 14th centuries, is 4kmout on the road from thetown to Hizan, over the

Müküs (Botan) River. Recently restoredby the municipality and in use, it is asingle-arched structure with twocorridors for pedestrians on either sideof the arch. The bridge gets its namefrom the red bricks used in its con-struction.

Monastery of St Saviour

Locals refer to this monastery, some7km from the town, as Beyaz Kilise (orDêra Spî in Kurdish). You can bestreach it by a one hour climb fromÜnlüce (Mezraa-i fiêxan) village. Thechurch is likely to date from the 10th or11th century, while the monastery,dedicated to the Virgin Mary, wasfounded in the 10th century. The smallchurch of John the Baptist dates to themid-14th century. What was probably a

19th-century mill and otherruins can be found close tosome large walnut trees.

Abanak or SaintesFemmes Monastery(Azize Kad›nlarManast›r›)

Also known locally asDêra Mele fiêx, thisattractive and splendid


Mir Hasan Veli Madrasah (53)

A detail from St

Jaques church (54)

K›z›l Köprü (The red bridge) (55)

monastery is set near the confluenceof the Delan and Müküs Rivers, acces-sible from Bahçesaray (it’s best to hirea local guide) from the village ofElmayaka (S›pkas) some 8km away inthe north of the district. The monasteryhas a nice large entrance hall. It wasbuilt during the 10th century with theaim of helping preserve a relic.

Monastery of St George(Pouthkouvank)

This monastery, also known asSerivank or Horoz or Dêra Han, is situ-ated 2150m up on the southern side ofMount Agirof (Axêrof), in impressivemountain scenery. The monastery wasa resting place on the old caravan roadto Van and was thus visited by manyMuslim and Christian travellers. Themonastery can only be reached on foot.You have to abandon your car about1km north of the source of the MüküsRiver. From here it is a 1 hour and halfmountain walk to the monastery, atfirst along the Sündüz River, thennorthwards along a small tributary. Alocal guide is advisable as there are novillages in this area. In summer someshepherds from Bahçesaray pitch uptheir tents next to the monastery.

It is believed that the monastery wasan important cultural centre of theVaspurakan Kingdom during the 14thcentury and had great influence untilthe 15th century thanks to its school.The monastery, which was also usedas a han in the past, was restored byone of the local rulers, Mir Hasan, in1548. Later it became exclusively aretreat and monastery. It was activeuntil 1839, and was partly damaged inthe 1990s.

fieyh fiemsettin Mosque

This historical mosque, whose age isindicated by two inscriptions, was builtwith two storeys in 1709 and partlydestroyed in the battles of 1915, leavingonly one floor. Now rebuilt, the mosqueis in the village of Güneyyamaç (TaxaBerojê), 15km south of Bahçesaray,and is still used for worship.

Keskin (Kinekas) Village Church

Simple, charming edifice with severalancient gravestones built into thewalls. It is located some 5 km to thewest of Bahçesaray, easily reachableby car or on foot.

Monastery of the Cross (Aparank)

Located in Kayafl village 45km south-west and near the border with Siirtprovince, this monastery is composedof St Astuacacin (its main building) andSt Stephanos Churches, St. ArakelokChapel, an entrance hall, a villagechurch and a fountain.

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Azize kad›nlar Manast›r› (57)

The rectangular-planned StAstuacacin Church, founded in 983, isaccessed by a gate on the westernside. An inscription mentions arestoration in 1629. The walls, builtwith truncated stones are quite high;the church has been covered with asingle dome and cradle vaults, builtby using red bricks. All the sides ofthe church (except the western part)are surrounded with other buildingsin the complex and they areinter-connected to he main churchbuilding.

Andzghonts Monastery(Dêra Ancaxosê)

The monastery is in the southeastpart of the district, on top of a hillsome 500m east of the MüküsStream. Locals also refer to it asMeryem Kilisesi (Mary Church) Thedate of construction is unknown but itis believed that it was restored in1676; in 1805 it was severelydamaged by fire and subsequentlyabandoned.


Keskin Church (58)

A view from Bahçesaray Valley (59)

Çatak (fiax)

The small but lively town of Çatak is80km southwest of Van. The surround-ing district (population 6,402) containsthe remains of Armenian churches andoffers some nice excursions aroundthe Botan River, such as to the popularKanispi (Kanîspî) Waterfalls 5km fromtown. You can also visit three ancientbridges believed to date from theSeljuk era. You can find a better placethen near the Ulu Camii in order to buysome fresh food and fruit brought bythe villagers daily.

Çatak Bridge

At the entrance to Çatak town is abridge (locally called Pira Eqit) overthe Sortkin River that flows throughthe town. The bridge was built eitherduring the 17th or 18th century and

bears inscriptions in Armenian. Still inuse today, the bridge has one arch.The tea house just off the front of thebridge can be good resting place, alsogood spot to photograph the bridgeand the town’s busy street.

Kanispi Waterfalls

Located 5km from Çatak are theKanîspî (“white spring” in Kurdish)Waterfalls, a popular picnic spot forlocals. There are good views of nearbypeaks and trees afford shelter forpeople cooking food until late in theevening. Two restaurants serve freshriver fish.

Hurkan and Zeril Bridges

Around 7km southwest from town onthe road to Narl› (Xawêfltan) is theHurkan Bridge, probably built in the17th century judging by its style.Restored in 1983, it is similar to theÇatak Bridge in its appearance and isnow only for pedestrian use. The littlealcove in the northeastern part of thebridge once was used as a shelter.

Van/Çatak 571

Country life in Çatak (60)

Çatak bridge (61)

Three kilometres further out on theNarl› (Xavifltan) road is this single-arched bridge over the Norduz River,sitting within a wide, deep valley. Beingsimilar to Hurkan Bridge, it probablydates from the 17th or 18th century.The bridge was restored in 1988 and

its original railings and walls are wellconserved.

Alb›çak Monastery

If you have some time to spend inÇatak, you can visit this monastery inthe village of Alb›çak (Cunik), 16kmSouthwest of Çatak. You will have toleave the Çatak–Pervari highway at the5th kilometer and take the small pavedroad west from town that leads you tothe 3550m Mount Kepçe (Arnos). Youwill then have to follow the paved road11km until you reach Seksek River’snorthern bank. The monastery, usuallycalled Cunik by the locals, is wellpreserved and makes a goodexcursion.

Surp Tigin Church

This 10th-century church is in thevillage of Elmac› (Sortkin), 10 km northof Çatak town on the road to Van. Itsplan is that of a four-leaf clover. Themain hall, accessed through a door inthe west, has a large octagonal roof.The village itself is photogenic, withskilfully built stone houses and astream.


Kanîspî waterfalls (62)

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Rock art

Interesting painted figures can be found inthe rocks of the Valley of Tirflin, 150kmsouth of Van and between Çatak andGürp›nar. In order to get there, you needto drive to Bilgi (Alan) village some 25kmnortheast of Çatak, and then you mayneed to walk for some 20 minutes. Thefigures are believed to date back as far asthe 6th century BC and represent stylizedhunting scenes, buffalos, reindeer andhuman beings. Similar figures can be seenin the Narl› area of Çatak on a hill calledHufl Tepe; here there are figures of menriding horses and geometrical figurespainted on the rocks. It is believed thatthese figures are more recent than thoseat Tirflin, since the riders are shown withmusical instruments in their hands.

Rock art (64)

Surp Tigin church and children (65)

Gürp›nar town is 22km south of Van(population 9,290). The largest districtof Van by area, it was once calledXawesor, meaning “valley offorefathers”, but because it had manywater sources its name was changedto Gürp›nar, “rich in sources”. Thereare four peaks exceeding 3000m withinthe district, namely Gökda¤, Koçk›ran

(Kilespiri), Yeltepe and Çat. The districtis worth visiting for the Kurdishcitadel, Hoflap Kalesi, whose nameprobably comes from the Kurmancîxwefl av (“nice water”), and whichindeed had a system for storingwater inside.

Hoflap (Xoflab) Kalesi

Very much popular with foreign andlocal tourist, this site should have atop place in your sightseeing list. Thecitadel, also called Güzelsu Kalesi andas Mahmudiye, referring to Kurdishleader Sar› Süleyman Mahmut Bey(Mahmudi Süleyman the Blond) whogave the citadel its amazingappearance overhanging the steephills in the middle of nowhere. Thecitadel’s history goes back as far asthe Urartians, Mahmud Bey, who ruledthe region during the Turkco andPersian hostility finally allied withKarakoyunlu Empire of Tabriz (Iran)and Hoflab was given to him as agrant, The fortress later was restoredand enlarged in 1643 before beingabandoned in the 19th century.According to local tradition, the hands


Gürp›nar (Xavesor)

Hoflap Kalesi (66)

From Hoflap Kalesi’s entrance (67)

of the architects who built this formi-dable stronghold were cut off so thatthey could not build another. Somesources argue that early leaders of theMahmudi Clan whose perhaps practic-ing Yezidi religion of the Kurds beforethey converted to Islam in late 15thcentury.

The citadel is surrounded by triplewalls and is entered through a door inthe north. Note the lion shaped reliefsat the entrance together with inscrip-tions in Persian praising Sar›Süleyman Mahmut. The original irondoor-knockers are still present. It isbelieved that the citadel also includeda mosque, selaml›k (men’s apart-ments), harem, baths and a jail.

You can also have a look at thethree-arched bridge called Evliya BeyKöprüsü in the northern part of thecitadel, built by Evliya Bey in 1671.Recenty restored, the bridge iscomprised of black and white stones.

The citadel is 60km from Van and39km from Gürp›nar, and is accessiblevia the highway between the two desti-nations. If you’re on public transport,

you take a dolmufl to Baflkale (from atend of Cumhuriyet Cad and beginningof K›flla Cad in Van), and get off at thestop behind the Atakçaba PrivateSchool. The place is open everydayfrom 8.30am to 5pm, with an hourlunch break and a modestentrance fee.

Güzelsu

You can combine a trip to the HoflapKalesi with a visit to the picturesquevillage of Güzelsu (Xoflab) nearby. Inthe southeastern part of the village isGevirhan Cemetery, located at theentrance to the village off the

Van/Gürp›nar 575

Hoflap Kalesi’s defence walls (68)

Süleyman Bey Tomb (69)

Van–Hakkâri highway, is a cupola dedi-cated to Mahmudi Süleyman, andcalled Süleyman Bey Kümbeti. It isbelieved that the one-storey stonemonument, which has an octagonalplan though the interior is circular,was built in the middle of the 17thcentury. Also within the cemetery aretwo madrasahs, one being the 17th-century Evliya Bey Madrasah. It isorganized around courtyard, withcells/rooms in the east of thecourtyard and an octagonal mescit(prayer hall minus minbar) in thesouthern part. The second madrasahis believed to have been built forHasan Bey in 1563, and includes fiverooms in the east, four in the west anda small mosque. His tomb here wasconstructed by his son fiir Bey in 1585,and is still well preserved. With thickwalls, the one-storey tomb is built ofstone blocks on a square plan

Within the village also is a cara-vanserai built by the tribe called

Mahmudi, probably during the 16th or17th century. It would have been amore interesting place to visit if it was-n’t partly buried and partly used as astable.

Çavufltepe Kalesi(Kela Aspeflênê)

This Urartian fortress and royalresidence is in Çavufltepe (Aspeflin)village, 3km from Gürp›nar and 26kmsoutheast of Van; it’s accessible fromthe Van–Hakkâri highway if you takethe turning 4km out of Van on theBaskale road.

The fortress was built during the reignof King Sarduri II (765–733 BC) andwas referred to as Sardurihinili,meaning “City of Sarduri”. Besideshaving a strategic position, the fortresswas also of economic significance as itserved as a silo for agriculturalproduction from the plains. There isalso evidence of a sophisticatedplumbing system. Some say that in theblocks hidden in the soil of thefortress, researchers found 2700-year-old wheat stores.

Built on a hill dominating the plain, thefortress is composed of an upper(Yukar› Kale) and a lower (Afla¤› Kale)section. The upper part is south of theentrance gate, and is accessiblethrough the lower part by a rampedwalkway. In the western end of the


Çavufltepe (70)

Çavufltepe Kalesi (71)

upper part you can see a templededicated to the God Haldi, built on arectangular plan.

If you are interested in Urartian rites,there is another, larger, temple in thelower section, dedicated to God Irmusi.Built of basalt, the temple has asection for sacrificial rituals. In theeastern part of the temple close to theentrance are nicely preserved Urartianinscriptions. The site has been wellsignposted and it’s quite popular withtourists. There is a tourist office whereyou can get extra information and evenguide to tour you around the fortress.

St Marinos Monastery

You will reach the monastery after alittle walk of 45 minutes, in the villageof Arkboyu (Gêlbelesan), 6km fromGürp›nar, in sides of the Cad› Taflm›flDa¤›. This was an Armenian orthodoxworship place home to no less than300 nuns until it was abandoned in the19th century. It is believed that theMonastery takes its name from femalesaint Marinos whose tomb is said to besomewhere in the surroundings. In thepast, women who couldn’t have chil-dren would come here to pray.

Hamurkesen (Zêrnak)

The village of Hamurkesen, nearly20km east of Gürp›nar town andaccessible off the Van–Hakkâri high-way, contains a 17th-century fortresson rocks to the northwest. It isbelieved that it was built by BeflaretBey, a ruler of the local Zernek Tribe.The fortress is large enough to accom-modate the rulers’ family and alsofeatures a harem, a kitchen and ahamam. Walls survive to the east andaround the entrance in the north; the

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Nomad children (72)

St Marinos Monastery (73)

entrance gate is surrounded by twotowers.

In the same village you can visit amosque believed to have been built bySeyyid Muhammed in 1710. Villagersclaim that it was damaged by theArmenians during World War I conflictand that the dome collapsed. Thedome and the rest of this simplemosque are now being restored. Notethe beautiful mosque door, decoratedwith geometric figures.

Dêr Meryem Monastery(Hogeacvank Manast›r›)

If you are an explorer at heart, consid-er hiring a local guide to take you tothis monastery, which is reached by anhour’s walk along the Çataksuyu(Norduz) River from the village ofÖzlüce (Araz), 25km due south ofGürp›nar town. Özlüce, like themonastery, is deserted, and themonastery has not been much visitedin past decades though it was oncepopular with pilgrims as it contains anicon of the Virgin Mary. The monasterysuffered considerable damage in 1895and finally was abandoned in 1915.

In a simple field, the monastery wasprobably built during the 9th centuryand restored in 1730. The gate is in thesouth side of the monastery; a cellar, abarn and some small rooms are setapart from the main complex.

Cave art

Nearly 30km southeast of Gürp›nar is abeautiful canyon near the village ofYedisalk›m (Put) where you can visitGürp›nar K›zlar›n Ma¤aras›, caves con-taining painted depictions of dancingwomen figures. A few kilometres east isthe village of Giyimli (Xirkanis) withmore caves nearby containing figuresrepresenting stylized suns, crosses, ani-mals and human beings.

Hiris (Hêris) Churches

Two little churches by the Çatak Riverare called Hiris by locals, though thelarger one, with a single nave, is alsoreferred to as the Meryem Ana Church.Rectangular in plan, it is divided intothree sections inside by two largevaults. Both churches are probably fromthe 17th century. The churches are5km from Örmeli village (Kengewer),which is some 60km from Gürp›nar.


Welcome smile(74)

On the northern shore of Lake Van, thetown of Ercifl is around 100km fromVan city, on one of the largest andprettiest plains near the lake. Thetown is thought to take its name fromthe Urartian King Argiflti or thehistorical cities of Arsissa or Arzaflkunin the area. Such was the significanceof the town that the lake itself wasknown as Buhayratül Ercifl (LakeErcifl) to the Arabs. The town retainedits prominence during Armeniantimes, when it was called Agantz. Inthe 15th century it was the base of theKarakoyunlus. Flooding caused by thelake forced the population to quit theirvillages in 1840, and the town onceagain experienced significant damagein 1915, subsequently being renamedErcifl in the Republican era. Today thetown’s economy is partly reliant on itssugar factory. The town centre isunusual in that it’s devoid of tall mod-ern buildings; instead, most of thecentre and bazaar are appealinglycomprised of one- or two-storeystructures.

The surrounding district (population77,464 mostly Kurdish) is rich with

Urartian history, notably in the inscrip-tions praising the “King of Kings”visible on the highway leading to Vancity. In the 13th century, Ercifl was onthe commercial road to Iran, and thisis attested too by the Kortuz Fortressand the Bend-i Mahi Bridge.

Kadem Pafla Hatun Tomb

This türbe is accessible 3km southeastof the centre and accessible via theVan–Ercifl highway. It is believed tohave been built in 1453 under the reignof Karakoyunlu Cihan fiah for KaraYusuf Pafla’s wife Kadem Pafla Hatunand their sons Emir Ali Yar, fiahMustafa, fiah Sevik and fiah Ali.

A two-storey construction in themiddle of a nice garden, the tomb issimilar to that of Halime Hatun inGevafl (see p:562). It still bears inscrip-

Van/Ercifl 579

Ercifl (Erdîfl)

Ercifl Kalesi (75)

Kadem Hatun pafla Tomb (76)

tions and geometrical decorations onthe door and the windows. The lowerlevel, accessed through a simple doorwith a small window opposite for venti-lation, holds the sarcophagi and has arectangular plan. The second floor iscylindrical on the inside but the exteri-or walls are dodecagonal.

The Anonymous Tomb

Known by various names, includingAnonim Kümbet, Zortul Kümbeti andErcifl Kümbeti, this tomb is inÇatakdibi (Zortul), at the 5km mark onthe highway from Ercifl to Patnos inA¤r›; take the first road on the rightbefore you arrive at the end ofÇelebiba¤› village. Given the inscrip-tions and decorations on the tomb, itsupposedly dates from the 15thcentury and the reign of theKarakoyunlu leader Kara Yusuf Pafla,whose tomb it may actually be. It issimilar to the Kadem Pafla HatunTomb and bears decorations symboliz-

ing the reign and the power of theAnatolian rulers. On the northernfacade are the most interestingdecorations, showing two lions back toback. Their tales are shaped likedragon’s heads and you see theirbodies in profile though their faces areturned towards to you. Two huntingbirds also appear on this facade.

Urartian inscriptions

The Urartians took advantage of thetopography of Ercifl and definitely lefttheir imprint in the region, notably onthe Van–Ercifl highway in the district ofKaratafllar, 5km northeast of Ercifl; theinscriptions are on the hillside oppo-site the police station. Part of a sitethat has been fenced off and convertedinto a park, the inscriptions are ametre high in size and tells the feats ofUrartian King Sarduri. Anotherexample can be seen 200m west fromthe highway, glorifying Sarduri(743–735 BC).

Deliçay Port(also called Bal›k Bendi)

It is believed that the first ports in theregion were built by the Urartians tofacilitate access through the castles tomilitary and merchandises. The portsin Edremit and Tatvan are now sub-merged but that at Deliçay can still be


Urartian Inscription (77)

Deliçay (78)

visited. You will also see ancientUrartian tombs that are under protec-tion for further archaeologicalexploration.

The place is also very popular in springfor the spectacle it offers of fish jump-ing around in the foam. The nameBal›k Bendi is actually that of a fish,the grey mullet thatarrives here in thou-sands in April and May.If you pass by the lakeat this period, you willsee hundreds of themjumping against thecurrent to head toregions where they canlay their eggs. Easilyreachable by the high-way, at 10km fromErcifl town, the site isright next to ErciflSugar Factory and is now a pleasantpark, with a restaurant servingfresh fish.

Çelebiba¤› Historical Cemeteryand Çelebiba¤› Höyü¤ü

The village of Çelebiba¤› (Eganis), 8kmsouthwest of Ercifl on a hill by thelake, contains a cemetery withhistorical stone graves. During excava-tions in the 1990s four monumentalgraves were found, in addition to sar-cophaguses and ornamented grave-stones with Kufic writings from the14th and 15th centuries. Around half akilometre south of the cemetery youcan see the ruins of Ercifl Castlein the lake.

A historical settlement, Çelebiba¤›Höyü¤ü, was discovered in the south-ern part of the village of Çelebiba¤›and close to the cemetery. Originallythis was on a peninsula, but it becamemarooned on an island after the lakewaters rose. It is believed that thesettlement could have been a temple;diggings have uncovered bowls, potsand vases dating from as far as backas 2800 BC.

Ercifl Kalesi

Also in Çelebiba¤› village is this wellpreserved lakeside fortress, with walls8m high. It is believed that is wasoriginally built at the end of the 9thcentury BC by the Urartian King

Menua. As with otherUrartian fortresses,this would have accom-modated the ruler andhis family while most ofthe rest of the popula-tion would have beensettled nearby, onlyretreating within thesanctuary of thefortress in times ofwar. Ercifl Fortress wasprobably built up fol-lowing the samescheme although it is

not surrounded by graves.

In Akkoyunlu (White sheep Turcoman)times the fortress served as an impor-tant military base. The Ottoman trav-eller Evliya Çelebi was impressed withwhat he saw, describing the fortressas extremely robust and, more dubi-ously, as built of stones “each one asbig as an elephant”. He also wrote thatthe fortress was restored by KaraYusuf (a Karakoyunlu ruler) and com-prised a thousand adobe homes, amosque, two hundred shops and aharbour to trade with Van. The fortresswas always affected by lake floods,sometimes for months at a time, andthis caused some damage.

Van/Ercifl 581

Fish from Deliçay (79)

Çelebiba¤› cemetery (80)

Some 80km northeast of Van city is thedistrict of Muradiye (population 13,816)It is one of the most populated areas inthe Van province, well known for theBend-i Mahi Waterfalls. The area hasmuch else to offer visitors in terms oflandscapes, being surrounded byextinct volcanoes (Beflparmak, Pirreflitand Pete) and crossed by the Bend-iMahi River.

Muradiye Bargiri Kalesi

The remains of a fortress can be visit-ed near the jandarma base in thenorthern part of Muradiye town. Builton rocks with a view over the town, thefortress is thought to have been origi-nally built by the Urartians and wasrebuilt by the Safavid Ruler fiah ‹smailin the 16th century. The walls in thenorthwest and the two entrances inthe south are Urartian, while the wallssurrounding the northern entrance areSafavid work.

The Bend-i Mahi Bridge

This bridge on the old Erçis–Tabriz(Iran) caravan road is one of the for-

gotten sights of the southeast. It isusually said to be of Seljukprovenance, dating from the 13th cen-tury, though there are also claims thatit was built by Argun Khan, the ruler ofthe Il-Khanid (one of the four sectionsof the Mongol Empire which aroseafter Genghis Khan died), between1284 and 1291. The bridge is said tohave been an important commercialconduit up until the Ottoman times.

The bridge is on the Bend-i Mahi River11km from Muradiye. From the


Muradiye (Bêgirî)

Muradiye waterfalls (81)

Bendi Mahi bridge (82)

Van/Muradiye 583

fieytan Köprüsü andthe Bend-i Mahi

Waterfalls

The “devil’s bridge”, as the namefieytan Köprüsü translates, is 3km

north of Muradiye, spanning theBend-i Mahi River. Still in good shape,

the bridge is believed to date from the 19thcentury; it has a single arch 9.7m wide and is

22.60m long.

Continue north up the road from the bridge andaround 5km on you will come to the Muradiye

Waterfalls, probably the most beautiful cascades in theeast of Turkey and a highly popular spot among locals. A

rock separates the water into two waterfalls 15m high andabout 200m wide. There is a suspension bridge for traffic

opposite the Waterfalls. Cross over the footbridge in a leafy areaopposite the falls is the fielale Restaurant, offering good views and,

unusually, alcohol and fish.

Muradiye waterfalls and chain bridge (83)


junction where the Erçis road branch-es off from the road between Van andMuradiye, take the turning on the rightand after 1.5km you will find thebridge. Framing the bridge is a nicepanorama, with the mountains behindand the tranquil river flowing down.Consisting of black and white stoneand with two arches, the bridge is 62mlong and 4m wide, but has lost someof its character thanks to restorations,most recently in 2007. This is also agood spot to fish.

St Stephanos Monastery

This monastery, in the Kandeharquarter 2.5km west of Muradiye on theslopes of the Aksor›k Mountain,includes a well-preserved church 12mtall and built on a rectangular plan.The church was originally surroundedby monks’ cells, but they are now inruins. There is no road to the site, butyou can reach it on foot.

fieytan bridge (84)

Children from Muradiye (85)

Van/Muradiye 585

The Battle of Çald›ran

The Çald›ran (Ebex) district nowlies half-sandwiched betweenMuradiye and Özalp in the north-east of Van province, but at thestart of the 16th century, it sat onthe boundary between SafavidAzerbaijan and Ottoman Anatolia.‹smail, who founded the SafavidDynasty in 1502 at Tabriz (northof Persia), when proclaimed him-self shah, he had an army com-posed mainly of K›z›lbafl tribes-men. A few years later, in 1512,Yavuz Sultan Selim becameOttoman Sultan. He attacked theSafavids in Çald›ran in 1514 withthe aim of destroying the K›z›lbaflTribes and extending his domina-tion over a region that had beenneglected by the Ottomansuntil then.

Sultan Selim’s Sunni army wassuperior in strength and managedto swing Çald›ran to the Ottoman

Empire. The Sultan, advised by‹dris Bitlisi, a high profile Kurd,decided to restore the semi-auton-omy of local Kurdish tribe leaderson condition that they recognizeOttoman sovereignty. Thisdecision lead to the creation of 16half-independent hükümet (gover-norates) which spread over anarea representing no less than30% of the Kurdish regions. Thelargest of these hükümet wereBitlis, Bohtan (Cizre), Hâkkari,Hisnikefya (Hasankeyf), Behdinan(Dehok/ Dahuk, north Iraq) andErdelan (city of Sanandej, provinceof Kurdistan in Iran) and theymaintained their autonomy fromthe centralized power until the1840s. Çald›ran was to stay thedemarcation line between theOttoman and Persian Empiresfrom the Treaty of Zuhab (or theTreaty of Qasr-e-Shirin) in 1639 upuntil World War I.

A Iranian impression of Çald›ran war (86)


Around 110km southeast of Van liesthe town of Baflkale. The surroundingdistrict (population 15,910) has a138km border with Iran, a fact which,together with scarce jobs, generatesan environment conducive to traffick-ing. Baflkale was formerly known as afortress city (the name means “chieffortress” in Turkish) but today the areais worth visiting for its churches andalso a volcanic area called Vanadokya(by analogy with Cappadocia).

With a history going back to Hittitetimes, the town was formerly knownas Elbak and was administrativelylinked to Hâkkari during the last yearsof the Ottoman Empire. Baflkale washome to many Armenians and in 1915,the Armenians actually took it over for

three years with Russian support; thearea was then incorporated into thenew Turkish Republic and acquired itspresent name. For centuries the townhad also a small Jewish community.

Kelekom Bridge

This two-arched bridge is believed tohave been built by Hüsrev Pafla in1655. Well preserved, it spans the ZapRiver, 16km out on the road fromBaflkale to Yüksekova.

Örenkale (Pizan)

The village of Örenkale (Pizan), 19kmaway from Baflkale, contains amadrasah and tomb associated withHüsrev Pafla. The madrasah consistsof a two-storey rectangular buildingwith seven rooms at each floor and aplace for prayer at ground level on thenorthwest side. An entrance in thenortheast leads to the courtyard andbears some inscriptions but no deco-ration. According to the inscriptionabove the entrance, the madrasah wasbuilt by Hüsrev Pafla – one of the Mirsof Hakkâri – in 1653, and it is believedthat the part in the southwest was

Baflkale (Elbak)

Vanadokia (87)

Kelekom Bridge (88)

Van/Baflkale 587

added by his son Süleyman Pafla. Mostof it comprises uncut stones, while theinterior is plastered with lime.

Hüsrev Pafla’s tomb, in the cemeteryin the south of the village, contains sixgraves, including those of his son andother relatives; the one dated 1663belongs to Hüsrev Pafla himself. Thesquare-planned structure has walls ofuncut stones and is topped with apyramidal roof.

Örenkale also has a fortress, but thisis largely ruined.

Akçal› (Salkone)

This village, 20km southwest ofBaflkale off the highway between Vanand Hakkari, is where you can view alandscape of travertine, a calcareousrock. The scene, reminiscent of acushion of white clouds on the ground,is not as extensive as its Anatolianequivalent but will certainly thrill youwith its beauty.

St Bartholomew Church

This church, dating back to the end ofthe 13th century, would be a good

example of Armenian architectureexcept that it is ruined. It can beglimpsed from the main road, thoughthe site itself is a closed military zone(permission to enter is rarely granted).The site is reached via the village ofAlbayrak (Dêr) in the Zap Valley, 23kmnortheast of Baflkale.

You can only see the remains of theSaint Bartholomew Church and thejamatun, or entrance hall. Its appear-ance is probably due to renovation

Saint Bartholomew church (89)

Yanal (Soradêr) church (90)


during the 19th century but the churchwas damaged in a big explosion in1966. Note the beautiful reliefs on theentrance door showing two peoplefighting on horseback and God sittingon a throne carried by six little angels.

Vanadokya

Close to the village of Yavuzlar(Taghik), 33km northeast of Baflkale, iswhat the locals refer to as“Vanadokya” – a region where theeruption of the surrounding Yi¤it Da¤›volcanoes created interesting fairychimneys, similar to the ones inCappadocia in central Anatolia. Theeastern versions are not as denselypacked as their Anatolian counter-parts, though they still offer a startlinglandscape. A good point to take photosof these beautiful chimneys is justbehind the village houses to the east.

Yanal (Soredêr)

One of the best preserved churches inthe district, thought to have been builtbetween the 7th and 9th centuries, canbe seen in the village of Yanal, 45kmnortheast of town. The church,dedicated to St Ejmiacin, is built ofreddish stone blocks on a four-leaf-clover plan, and features a centraldome. Inside the dome is supportedwith two cross vaults. In the west ofthe building is a vaulted doorway.

A view from Vanadokia (91)

Yanal (Soradêr) church (92)

Climbing Mount Ararat (1)

A¤r› province is at the cross-roads of Asia and Anatolia, andhas been the theatre of manystruggles during the course ofhistory. A¤r› was at the northernend of the Hurri-Mitani Kingdomin the 15th century BC. TheUrartians ruled the region formany years, after which theregion was in the grip of, amongstothers, the Parthians, Safavids,Mongols and Karakoyunlus. Theprovince was the source of conflictbetween the Russians and theOttomans, so that in a relativelyshort period of time, it changedhands several times until theBerlin Treaty gave itfinally to theOttomans. Beingmainly populatedby Armenians formany years, theregion containsimportantChristian remains.

A¤r› is famous for itswhite honey and overallfor its dairy products, producingexcellent kaflar, a sort of gruyère. Themost famous local dish is saç

kavurma, little pieces of meatcooked with herbs. The meat-

balls called abdigor are alsowell known; prepared withlean tendon-free beef, themeat is mixed up with eggsand spices before being

tenderised and set to rest for awhile. After that it is cooked in

boiling water and served with rice.Simply delicious!

The province has this special air socommon to eastern towns of thecountry where tradition, culture and


Mount Ararat (2)


530,879 (2007)

Average altitude

1650mArea11,376 square kilometers

DistrictsA¤r›, Do¤ubeyaz›t, Diyadin, Eleflkirt,

Hamur, Patnos, Tafll›çay, Tutak

EconomyAgriculture, Livestock farming,

TourismNeighbouring provinces

Erzurum and Mufl (west), Kars

(north), I¤d›r (east), Van and Bitlis

(south)

At aglance

Abdigor köfte (3)

A¤r› 593

history are tastefully mixed with natureof exceptional beauty. People visitingA¤r› usually come to see the ‹shakPafla Palace, very similar in the spiritto Topkap› Palace in ‹stanbul but ina way much more impressivebecause it is surrounded bynothing and has stunning viewsover the Plateau of Do¤ubeyaz›t.In the surroundings, the tombof famous Kurdish poetEhmedê Xanî (Ahmad Khani) isalso worth a visit. Moreover,the province is equipped withmodern ski facilities as well asseveral thermal springs inDiyadin, while Mount Ararat –the reputed landing site ofNoah’s Ark and Turkey’s highestpeak – has its own amazing beautywhich you can experience evenfrom a distance (and if you are suf-ficiently skilled and prepared tomake the necessary arrangements,you can embark on a climb to the top).Finally, as elsewhere in the region ofLake Van, the province is rich withUrartian remains such asDo¤ubeyazit Kalesi.

A¤r› CityA¤r› is a beautiful city on a large plainsurrounded by green and white moun-tains. The name A¤r› is derived fromagir, meaning “fire” in Kurmanjî, dueprobably to the volcanic nature of near-by Mount Ararat (5165m), mentioned in

the Old Testament as the resting placeof Noah’s Ark. The city is often a transit

point for accessing the AraratMountain – you will see groups oftourist with huge rucksacks

walking around the centre –and the surrounding district

(population 97,839) has aski resort and a fortressto visit. The city has aposh, pedestrianized

Cumhuriyet Cad, similar tomost “Sanat Soka¤›” inregion, and where mostshops, banks, hotels andrestaurants are located.

The ski resort in question isat Mount Bubi, 18km from

A¤r›. The resort is equipped with asmall ski lodge offering simple

accommodation and a 1200m-long ski lift. There is also a

café serving drinks and light meals.

The kale is located between Yukar›Küpk›ran and Güneysu village sometwenty kilometres east of the city, afortress made of large stone blocksand its located between the village andgüneysu village. An Urartian strong-hold, the fortress was severelydamaged by successive earthquakesand found itself in a depression in theearth so it was sometimessubmerged in times of rain and snow.As a result it took the name HarabeGöl, meaning “ruins lake”.

A¤r› City (4)

Traditionalcustom(5)

Mount Ararat

Noah’s Ark

Some scientists considered theirduty to research a cavity reminis-cent of an ark that was foundbetween the villages of Telçeker(Surbahan) and Mesar on thesouthern slopes of Mount Ararat.In 1983 American researcher JamesIrwin was the first scientist to workhere, and as a consequence, theMinistry of Culture declared thearea a “Protected Cultural Asset”.

In fact it is questionable whetheranyone should be looking forNoah’s Ark on Mount Ararat. TheBiblical reference to Ararat is infact a misinterpretation of the text,as the word taken to mean Araratactually refers to the UrartianKingdom in the vicinity of LakeVan. For its part, the Koran saysthat the Ark landed on MountCudi, east of Cizre and 500kmfrom Ararat.

Mount Ararat

The legendary Mount Ararat,especially revered by Armeniansand Turkey’s highest peak at5165m, and sits mainly in I¤d›r

province adjacent to A¤r›. This is avolcanic peak, consisting of basaltup to 4000m and andesite higherup. It is said that Marco Poloclaimed that nobody would evermanage to climb it; the firstrecorded successful ascent wasmade in 1829 by Professor FrederikVon Parrot and his feat was laterimitated by thousands of climbersduring the 1980s, keen to find apiece of the Ark.

If you are an experienced climberand want to attempt the ascent,

Mt A¤r› (Ararat) (6)

Village near by Mt A¤r› (7)

594

be sure to start making prepara-tions well in advance, since it cantake some time to the officialpaperwork done (this being a sen-sitive zone, you need the authori-zation from the Ministry ofTourism). Specialist agencies, listedat www.mountainsofturkey.org,will help you through the proce-dures for a steep fee. The idealtime to climb is, unsurprisingly,between June and September. Donot make the ascent withoutcareful physical and materialpreparation or without hiring aguide. Equipment should include apair of snow glasses, winter jacket,hat and gloves, winter boots,gaiters, crampons and ice axe. Youwill also need a pair of goodsleeping bag and mat to spend thenight on the peak.

Routes

You can reach parts of the mainpeak (Büyük A¤r›) lying within thedistrict of Do¤ubeyaz›t from thevillages of Topçatan (Kanîkork) andfrom Eli Çiftli¤i. The climb to thefirst camp at 3200m takes up toeight hours. Some agenciesarrange mules to carry your

belongings and water to camp 1where you will spend the night.The second day’s takes up to sixhours and will bring you to thesecond camp at 4200m. The finalclimb involves a dawn start as itwill take you up to ten hoursincluding the return to thesecond camp.

There is ski resort project beingdeveloped on the northern side ofMount Ararat, and in future it mayalso be possible to ascend on thisside from Aral›k, a district of I¤d›r,15km from Do¤ubeyaz›t. Thisoffers the chance to see ruins ofArmenian monuments and a lake.

For the smaller peak (Küçük A¤r›,3846m), east of the main peak,climbing is only authorized on thenorthwest side.

Noah’s Ark (8)

Towards Mt A¤r› (9)

595

Some prominent people from A¤r›

Well-known figures from A¤r› include the poet Ehmedê Xanî (see, p: 481)and fiakiro (fiakir Deniz), regarded as fiahê Dengbêjan (“king of all deng-bêjs”). fiakiro was born at Navik village, though his date of birth isn’tknown. He started to sing in his early childhood and became well-knownfor his high voice. He travelled widely in southeast Turkey, sang with almostall of the dengbêjs of his time especially those in Diyarbak›r and made alarge number of recordings. Besides singing the songs of famous dengbejslike Reso, he also composed lots of his own songs like Wey Dil, Serayê,Genc Xelîl, etc. He died destitute in ‹zmir in 1996.

WEY DIL /HEARTMîro mîro mîro mîro mîro wey dil, wey dil, dil dilo hey dil.My God! My lord! My heart, hey the heart!....Bira Xwedê xirabike dilî bê dil,Fenanî gakî bê werîsê bê cil,Fenanî kirasê qolê bê mil,Fenanî dara bê flalûl û bê bilbil,Fenanî xasbexçekî bê gul,Let the God dissolve/abolish the heart without love;The heart that looks like an ox without packsaddles and reinsThe heart that looks like a short dress without sleevesThe heart that looks like a forest without nightingales or birdsThe heart that looks like a great garden without roses....Bira dêrisê gunda da dilê meriv bi dil be, tûrê parsê li mil be,Parsa meriv li vir nebe, li nava dozde dêwalê ecnebî Ûris, Aleman Emrîkan gêwir be,Bira parsa meriva birije be, tûrê merivayî qul be,Di dêrisê gunda da meriv li ber dîwarê evda be,Serrexa meriv gûnî be,Binrexa meriv postê jûjî be,Lolo gundo tu xirabî, berseriya meriv kevir be,Xwirê meriv kerî nanê garis û gilgil be,Di dêrisê gunda da tek bira dilê rezîl bi dil be, wey dil.Let your heart be full of love even if you live at shanty townsLet your heart be full of love even if you are a beggar with a pouchLet your heart be full of love even if you are a foreigner at countries you don’t know;Russia, Germany, America…Even if your pouch get perforatedEven if the things you’d gained be poured outEven if you’re a slave of slaves at shanty townsEven if your quilt is a milk vetch (astragals)Even if your mattress is made of the fur of a hedgehogEven if your pillow is made of stoneEven if you don’t have anything to eatJust let the heart be full of loveJust let your heart be full of love!!

To be the only feeling that gives life its meaning. The refrain is interesting:“If a man has a satisfied heart, it does not matter whether he has abeggar’s bag on his shoulder; he may well have a hedgehog hide as hisblanket, thorny bushes as his bed and a handful of corn or maize as hisfood.” fiakirê Qereyaziyê

Another well known dengbej was Evdalê Zeynikê (although some say hewas more skilled then fiakiro), born in a village in the Tutak district at thebeginning of 19th century. He became the head dengbêj in the divan (asaloon or hall where councils were held) of Sürmeli Memed Pafla, but at thepeak of his popularity he lost his sight and couldn’t participate in hugegatherings any more. He became more and more destitute and started tostroll the villages of the Serhed region with his sick adopted child Temo. Atthe end of his life his sight was restored by an Iranian. He died at Qanciyanvillage in Erzurum in 1913.

fiakiro(10)

596


There are plenty of possibil-ities for a stay in A¤r›. Onthe central Erzurum Cad,try the Büyük A¤r› Otel(0472 215 48 61), with 50rooms and serving break-fast, or the Otel Kervansaray(0472 218 00 41).

Turkish Airlines operatesflights between Ankara and‹stanbul and A¤r›; theairport is around 3km out oftown. TheTrabzon–Erzurum–Tehranhighway passes throughA¤r›, ensuring good roadtransport connections.

Damak Döner veKebap Salonu, onCumhuriyet Cad,(0472 215 77 78),serves not onlykebabs but also avariety of localsweets. On NevzatGüngör Cad, CanBaba Kebap andDöner (0472 216 1410) offers home-made regionalfood includingkavurma, dolmaand köfte, in addi-tion to differentkind of kebabs anddöner.


Camping, Ararat (12)

The Legend of Mount Ararat by Yaflar Kemal

Ararat is a land of legends andone more example is the bookby Yaflar Kemal, A¤r› Da¤›Efsanesi (“The Legend of MountArarat”). The book is about anexceptionally beautiful horsethat chooses a poor young manas its master. The young mandoesn’t really know what to dowith the horse but accepts it asa gift from the sky. Things getcomplicated when the realmaster of the horse, a rich andmighty nobleman discovers thearrangement and attacks theregion, tormenting the popula-tion at the base of MountArarat and forcing them to flee.

Then the young hero is captured, imprisoned and condemned to dead.It would be a tragic ending if a young woman wasn’t in love with him…

597

Book Cover (10)


Eleflkirt town, 34km west of A¤r›, wasformerly an Armenian town, today ismainly populated by Kurds a fewCaucasian Turks. Once called Zêdkanand originally a Urartian settlement,the town lies under a thick blanket ofsnow half of the year and issurrounded by mountains such asHayrangöl (2850m) and Köseda¤(3433m) in the west, and M›zrak(2350m) and K›l›ç (2306m) in the south.The terrain and climate have allowedthe development of a ski resort nearby.The district (population 11,194) isknown for its delicious white honeyand also has some coal resources,with lignite mined for heatingpurposes in villages such as Y›¤›ntafl(fiadîyan) and Hayrangöl.

Toprakkale

Toprakkale, 13km from Eleflkirt, is oneof the largest archaeological sites inthe province. You should head there tosee not only the fortress but also the17th-century mosque.

Toprakkale was (together with Patnos)one of the most important Urartian

settlements in the area, and included atemple devoted to the God Haldi. Theconstruction of the fortress here wasmost likely built by King Rusas II(c.685-645 BC). Later on, when thetown was under the Parthian Arsaciddynasty, it was renovated by VologeseV, the ruler of Armenia between 180and 191. The fortress was studied in

Eleflkirt (Zêdkan)

Toprakkale village (13)

Toprakkale mosque (14)

A¤r›/Eleflkirt 599

1879 by the British researcher Clayton,who was particularly interested in theHaldi Temple. He, along with theChaldean Christian researcherHormuzd Rassam, are suspected ofhaving spirited away many valuableartefacts. The original Urartian templeand the rooms in the fortress aretotally in ruins, but what remains hintsclearly at how impressive it musthave been.

There is an interesting mosque to visitin the village of Toprakkale (in thesouthern part of the tumulus here)built in 1684 by Mirza bin Abdi Pafla.The mosque is designed on a squareplan with an 8m dome, steep vaultsand no minaret. The walls forming thebody of the mosque are made of stoneblocks as well as the entrance door;the prayer room has 14 woodencolumns. The inscription on thenorthern side of the main buildingstates that the mosque was built byMirza, son of Abdi and that the archi-tect was A¤abeydin. The style of themosque is commonly seen in Seljukarchitecture. Heavily damaged after anearthquake in 1864, it was laterdeclared protected and was restoredin 1968.

Güneykaya Ski Resorts

The ski resorts are 6km from Eleflkirtand 36km from A¤r› and easily acces-sible via the E-23 highway to Erzurum.The pistes are equipped with ski liftand are open from October till the endof March. There is a very pleasantrestaurant at the summit.

Skiin

g in

Ele

flkir

t(15)

Wom

an fr

om E

leflk

irt

(16)

A view of Toprakkale (17)

Hamur (Xemûr)


Hamur town is the most recent townto have joined A¤r› province and sits atan altitude of 1675m, 13km south ofA¤r› city. Known in antiquity asHavaran, the town dates back to the14th century BC and was ruled by theusual series of empires, including theAkkoyunlus from 1467 and Ottomansfrom 1578. During World War I thearea was under Russian dominationfrom 1915 to 1918. Initially a town ofthe now-nonexistent Beyaz›t province,it was attached to A¤r› in 1927.

The district (population 3,863)experiences severe winters with snow-fall often cutting roads. With thearrival spring, whole communities goup to the plateaus (in Kurdish zozan).One famous plateau is Alada¤lar, at

the edge of the Hamur town. As usual,the economy depends on agriculture,livestock breeding and also apiculture;if you visit, you might want to buy someof the area’s exquisite honey.

Sürmeli Mehmet Pafla Tomb

This tomb is the main historical site tovisit, by virtue of being the best pre-served. Situated in the central Kümbetdistrict, near the main road to Van, thetomb has uncertain origins as theinscriptions on the entrance door arelargely erased, though one intelligibleline states that it was built in 1802. Thetomb’s design differs from that ofregular Seljuk or Ottoman tombs.There are interesting black stones onthe rectangular floor, while the vaultscomprise black and dirty white tones,similar to those in the ‹shak PaflaPalace in Do¤ubeyaz›t.

A total of four graves lie here: one inthe courtyard, with two small and onelarge grave in the mausoleum. Thetombstones were decorated withinscriptions in Arabic, plus eight-point-

Bêrivan (18)

Sürmeli Mehmet Pafla (19)

A¤r›/Hamur 601

ed stars and vegetal motifs, but aremostly in ruins today. There are claimsthat the tomb was constructed by‹shak Pafla’s grandson, ‹brahim Pafla,for himself, his wife and daughter andhis brother Yusuf Bey.

The tomb is located at the end of theKümbet quarter at the entrance totown. It is ringed by a fence but can bereached through a small metal door inthe south.

Havaran Kalesi

Havaran Fortress is located in the Kaledistrict, slightly west of the centre,where it sits atop a steep-sided rock100m above the Mandal›k Creek. Thefortress is known to be Seljuk thoughits precise age is unknown. It wasoriginally large enough to house amosque, residences and hans, and it isthought that many of the surroundingfortresses, including Sosik, Ceylanl›and Eleflkirt, were dependent onHavaran. Today only the western partof the fortress survives.

A canyon separates the fortress from acave large enough to hold 100 people,which sits on the banks of the creek.

Sosik Kalesi

This fortress is 25km from Hamurtown in the village of Karl›ca (Sosik).Although it is referred to in EvliyaÇelebi’s Seyahatname as being aSeljuk site, the fortress with its largeinterior might well have Urartianorigins. It must have been renovatedand was most probably used by theAkkoyunlu tribes.

Two rooms at the sides of the fortressstill survive, as well as a reasonablywell-preserved hamam. Hidden stair-ways that lead down from the fortress;moreover, there is a prison cell(zindan) at the base of the fortress. Abit further east of the site, you can seea water tower as well as the remainsof two towers, in the southwest andnorth. Finally there is a secluded spotespecially dedicated to the prayer inthe lower part of the fortress.

K›z Kalesi

A smaller version of Sosik Fortresslies some 2km east and is called K›zKalesi (“girl fortress”) by locals,because they believe that the ruler ofSosik had it built for his daughter. Thisbeautiful fortress is made of ovalstones, rather unusual in the region. Itis not in such bad shape and there arehopes that it will one day be restored.

Mt A¤r› (Ararat) (20)

Havaran Kalesi (21)

Tutak (Tutax /Dûtax)


Tutak (population 7,172), only 40kmsouthwest of A¤r›, has been inhabitedsince the time of the Hurri-MitaniKingdom, of which it formed the north-eastern part. After 150 years of warbetween the Safavid (Persian) andOttoman Empires, the border with Iranwas finally and it seems forever fixedfollowing the Treaty ofZohab (1639). In 1877 and1878, the town was brieflyunder Russian domination.Weekdays the very livelytown is one with unusuallychaotic traffic, and peoplewalk right down the roadsthemselves rather than thepavements.

Karagöz Cemetery andStone Church

There are tombs which were originallyworship places in the mountainsbetween So¤ukp›nar (Muflyan) village18km southwest and its neighbourhoodKanîspî, near Day›p›nar› (Noktûlî) village18km southwest from Tutak town.Dominating the large plateaus, the sitelooks more like a fortress than a ceme-

tery. Here there are 36 Urartian tombsin the form of niches which received thecremated remains of the Urartian dead.The entrance door was carved with par-ticular care. Part of the site was laterused as a church, referred to asKaragöz (“black eye”) Church. To reachit, once you pass the village of

So¤ukp›nar, take a left nearthe cemetery of Kanispi andcarry on till the road ends.You will need to walk up ahill and look for a small,narrow hall which can bereached through some steps.The underground church hasone large hall and twosmaller rooms with manyniches carved into the walls.

Tutak (22)

Kar

agöz

chu

rch

(23)

Karagöz church (24)

Patnos (Panos)

A¤r›/Tutak/Patnos 603

Patnos is the province’s mostpopulated district (population 67,121).The town of Patnos is situated 79kmsouth of A¤r› city, and the mainA¤r›–Van road runs right through themiddle of town, giving the centre abusy atmosphere.

Patnos, known as Aladar› under theUrartians, has the most ancientremains of that kingdom in theprovince and is thought to have been aregional centre for that civilisation.The town was also known as Patisus

under the Romans and Batnus duringthe Ottoman times. The economy verymuch relies on agriculture andlivestock breeding.

Aznavur Tumulus

The tumulus, 2km northwest of Patnosat Aznavur (Kop), marks the site of aUrartian city probably dating from the8th century BC. Also the remains of anenclosing wall can be seen, though thesite is in a closed military zone. In factthe site was a fortress built during thereign of King Menua, with a wall 250mlong made of stone at the base withmud brick used on top; also here is atemple, due probably to King Ispuini(according to an inscription found in avillage called Ortadamla (Ancîni), 19kmfrom Patnos). The site was discoveredduring illegal excavations in 1959 anda couple of years later, a Turkish teamarrived from Ankara to do properresearch. They found a templededicated to Menua as well as anumber of Urartian tombs. Artefactsfrom their digs are now displayed inmuseums in Van and Erzurum(north of Mufl).

Animal Bazaar (25)

Wheat (26)


Girik Tumulus

The most impressive of the localUrartian remains are to be found 1kmsoutheast of Patnos, once was a hometo Girik town in the Çay district. Atop ahill here is an archaeological site withremains of walls and a temple remi-niscent of a kind of palace. The site isthought to have been central to theUrartian regime and that the wallsmust have been built from 789 to 766BC, during the reigns of King Menuaand his son Argisti I. Excavations thattook place at the start of the 1960srevealed an interior court, a temple,what could be called a living room as

well as a kitchen. Most interestingly, awindmill was found, something quiteadvanced for the period, and 37 burntskeletons with rings, bracelets, beltsand many jewels made of gold.

Patnos Tombs

There are three anonymous tombs inthe Patnos area, in the villages ofTaflkin (Taflxuna), Zirekli and Köseler(Kose), respectively 38, 33 and 27kmaway. The tombs decorated withdouble eagles and interesting animalfigures, date from the Karakoyunluperiod and are sometimes called ÜçKümbet, meaning “three tombs”. Toreach the tombs, drive up theAdilcevaz highway for 13km until yousee two petrol stations opposite eachother. Here you can reach Taflkin andKöseler by turning right and followingthe signs. The tomb in Taflkin is calledQulê Refl; strangely there is also a12m-long grave covered with largecubical stones. To get to Zirekli youshould turn left at the petrol stationsand continue for 7km.

Nature (27) Aart crafts (28)

Taflkin (29)

Diyadin (Giyadîn)

A¤r›/Diyadin 605

Diyadin, 60km east of A¤r›, is alittle town famous for its hotsprings, and the hot stones,warmed by geothermal water, andwhite panorama might recall thelandscape in western Cappadocia.Local authorities have exploitedthe springs with a geothermalproject that bring the hot waterinto town for heating purposes.The town, organized around theMurat River, also has someinteresting fortresses to visit.

The historical name of the townis believed to be Daudyana.Diyadin was conquered byRussian troops three times in the19th century and also duringWorld War I.

The district (population 18,990)has a continental climate thoughsummer temperatures neversoar given the altitude, 1800mabove sea level, with peaks suchas Mount Ari in the north, MountRüzgar in the west and MountTendürek in the east.

Diyadin thermal springs (30)

Source of thermal springs (31)


Diyadin Kalesi

This is the most prominent Urartianrelic in the district, located centrally in‹sa A¤a quarter and very close to theMurat River. Evliya Çelebi refers to thecastle in his Seyahatname, assumingthat it was built by the AkkoyunluZiyaüddin, son of Uzun Hasan. At thetime of Çelebi’s travels, the fortressboasted a mosque, a hamam and morethan 600 adobe houses. Renovatedseveral times, the castle was severelydamaged after World War I and hassuffered further degradation over theyears. Locals have used some of thestone to build their own dwellings.

Diyadin Thermal Springs

The springs are east of the MuratRiver, 5km from town. The localsproudly claim that the thermal springsof Diyadin, also called Avagerm, arethe seventh largest in the world. Thewater has high concentrations ofcalcium, sulphur, carbon dioxide,magnesium and iron, and is meant tobe therapeutic for skin, gastric andkidney conditions, as well asrheumatism and sciatica. Packed insummer, the springs can be reachedby dolmufl from the centre.

There are two main areas with hotsprings. The hottest water is at KöprüSprings, which are the first set youcome to. Köprü probably has the moreimpressive views, the scene being

similar to Cappadocia’s (centralTurkey) white stones. Before enteringthe facility, the water is naturallycharged with sulphur and lime, thoughit remains drinkable. Just 300m awayand close to Davut village are theDavut Springs, with water that can hit60°C and a large pool divided intosections for men and women. Peoplesuffering from rheumatism are recom-mended to envelop themselves in themud and, once it’s dried, get in thewater to wash it off.

Just 60m west of the Köprü Springs isa natural wonder, the Kudret Bridge.Sitting in the middle of surreal whitestones is a hole 30m high and 30mwide. There is another natural bridge150m further on.

You can stay at the springs at thethree-star Diyadin Jeotermal Otel(0472 511 32 79 & 0511 25 54), with 35rooms, its own open-air thermal pool,sauna and hamam complex. Thereare also various guesthouses inthe village.

Mount Tendürek

This extinct volcano, 13km east oftown, is an incredible place withsmoking hot stones and both cold andhot springs. The mountain takes itsname from the natural stone holes,reminding of traditional tand›r wherewomen cook the bread.

Meya Caves

These manmade caves, highly likely tobe the remnants of an ancient city, are15km south of Diyadin in the village ofGünbuldu (Meya). The site can easilybe reached in the rocks some 400mfrom the village. The caves appear allalong the steep cliffs (the location waschosen to be hard to attack) and havevarious forms; they must have servedas shelters, temples and simplehomes and are amazingly large withheights of up to 50m. Some rooms arePrivate thermal springs (32)

A¤r›/Diyadin 607

ornamented with balconies, and thelower parts were originallyornamented with motifs such asanimals, though little is left of thesetoday. There are also religious motifssuch as a mihrab niche indicating thedirection of Mecca in one of the caves;some stones have cross signs andthere is also what probably used toserve as a Yezidi cemetery. Two ram’s-head statues found here weretransferred to A¤r›.

Close by, the Sahabe Cemetery is alsoworth a visit, with its ornamented red,black and white tombstones.

Tokluca Kalesi

This fortress, with stones as large as2m across, is 19km from the towncentre, on top of a little hill behindTokluca village. It stands up there over100m with stones as large as 2m wide.A 3m entrance hole on top of thecastle will lead you down a 30-stepstaircase to three different tunnels andstaircases. It is believed that thetunnels eventually connect with theMeya caves.

Avnik Kalesi and Kuje Kalesi(Kela Avnîkê û Kela Kujer)

Only a little rectangular heap of stonessurvives of Avnik Fortress, which wasmentioned by Evliya Çelebi in hisSeyahatname. The fortress may havehad its origins in Urartian times, buttoday the main interest is the views ofMount Alada¤ and the plains. The siteis 29km east of town, close to a villagecalled Yankaya (Ali Hido). As ever, thefortress has been plundered by localsfor building material. Close by are theremnants of Kuje Kalesi, calledMirase by locals.

Meya caves (33)

Mill Stone (34)


Do¤ubayaz›t (Bazîd)

Wonderful Do¤ubeyaz›t, with its palacelike something from the ArabianNights, stands on a hill 94km fromA¤r› with an amazing view overlookingthe Iranian border to the east. Thesurrounding landscape features steepcontours and volcanic rocks, givingthe panorama a surreal feeling.Do¤ubeyazit is also home to a fortress

that once controlled the mostdramatic passes on the Silk Road.

Being at the crossroad betweenTurkey and Iran, Do¤ubeyaz›t alwaysbeen central to comings and goings,ever since it was a Urartian strong-hold. During the Ottoman Empire, thetown was the capital of a provinceuntil 1927 when the province wasreplaced by A¤r›. The new town grewup in its present location after the oldtown was destroyed in the Kurdishunrest of 1928–30 leading to theproclamation of the so-calledRepublic of Ararat (see p: 609). Knownas Beyaz›t until 1934, the town took itspresent name after the word do¤u(appropriately, “east”) was added.

The district (Population 69,414) hasvolcanic soil and an economy

A view of ‹shak Pafla palace (35)

Ehmedê Xanî statue (36)

Many Kurdish leaders fled Turkeywith the arrival of Kemalist troopsin 1922, but they didn’t give uphope for an autonomousKurdistan. Some of these leadersformed a new political party calledXoybûn (“Independence”) inLebanon in 1927. The headquartersof Xoybûn were in Aleppo, Syriabut soon the French, who held theUN mandate for Syria at the time,

proscribed the party in 1928.Despite these difficulties, a move-ment for liberation was begun bythis party started in Mount Ararat,chosen for its proximity to theporous border with Persia. Thesmall but experienced revolutionaryarmy, led by Îhsan Nûrî Pafla fromthe Cibran Tribe, proclaimed theRepublic of Ararat, which was sup-ported not only by Kurds but alsoby some Armenians from Iran.

It was not until 1930 that the Turksbegan to gain the upper hand insuppressing the rebellion, not onlybecause the Kurds fought fiercelybut also because of the lack ofcooperation from the Persians, whodid not allow Turkish troops toaccess the border until then. By thebeginning of 1932, the revolt wastotally crushed.

The Republic of Ararat

‹hsan Nuri Pafla(37)

A¤r›/Do¤ubayaz›t 609

dominated by agriculture andlivestock farming. Trade incarpets, made locally orimported from Iran, alsocontributes to the localeconomy.

If you are here at the end ofJune, you can attend the EhmedêXanî Culture and Arts Festival, whichattempts to raise awareness of the

issue of Kurdish language. There arecultural activities involvingKurdish-language readings and bookfairs, competitions.

A¤r› is an important road transit pointfor Iran and tourists are notuncommon here, some which come to

pay a visit to Do¤ubayaz›t’s toptouristic site “‹shak Pafla

Palace’’. The 24 houropen Gürbülakborder gate to Iranwas opened in1937, and isserved regularly by

transport makingthe 35km journey

from just behind themain street in

Do¤ubayaz›t.

Iran-Turkey border gate (38)

Rug (39)


‹shak Pafla PalaceThe ‹shak Pafla Palace is like a jeweladorning the side of the mountain,standing majestic in a panorama ofsnowy peaks. The palace is the bestexample of palace architecture duringthe Ottoman Empire's Tulip Period.According to inscriptions in ‹stanbul’sTopkap› Palace, ‹shak Pafla’sconstruction started in 1685 and wenton for no less than 99 years. Thisbeautiful 17th/18th-century architec-ture is similar to the Topkap› andEdirne Palaces and in no way inferiorto or less eye-catching than its morefamous counterparts. The complexalso includes a courtyard, mosque, ahamam and prison, and bears signsof Persian and Seljuk architectureinfluences. There are claims that theoriginal golden entrance door wasplundered during the Russian inva-sions of 1877–1878 and has ended upsomewhere in Moldavia.

You can get to the palace by minibusfrom in front of the municipality

building, or by walking around 5km,taking the only road north past thearmy headquarters. The palace isopen daily from 8am to 5pm (until7pm in summer). As the palace ishigh up, it’s best to be warmly clad.

First courtyard

The palace complex is rectangularand entered from the east. Byheading west through differentcourtyards, you enter into the moreprivate domains of the Pafla. This kindof hierarchical arrangement, regulat-ing how far visitors could penetrateinto the complex depending on theirrelationship with the Pafla, has muchin common with the Topkap› Palace in‹stanbul. The entrance gate here isdesigned in a Seljuk style and is

‹shak Pafla palace tomb(40)

‹shak Pafla entrance (41)


enhanced by the fact that it standsbetween bare walls and by its nicelydecorated stone. It leads to a squarecourtyard where to the north andsouth stables and servants’ quarterswere located.

Second courtyard

The gate to the second courtyard ison a long path and vaulted and israther simple in comparison to the

first gate. The courtyard is rectangu-lar and although there werestructures to the south of it, only thenorthern structures are well pre-served and identified. There is a tomblocated in the courtyard. The othernorthern structures are entered by along antechamber in the middle of thefacade. To the left is the so-calledselaml›k, the place were men used tosit and talk. In this case the selaml›kwas subdivided in different roomswhich also had administrativefunctions. Via the selaml›k it was pos-sible to enter the mosque on thewestern side. To the right or easternside of the antechamber you enter asuite and rooms.

The tomb is almost built against thenorthern facade in the secondcourtyard. It features an interestingstylistic mixture between classicalpillars on pedestals and a pyramidaldome, resembling Seljuk examples,on top. Inside stairs lead you downinto an underground vault where thefamily’s tombs were preserved.

‹shak Pafla palace, inside(42)

Entrance to 2nd courtyard(43)


The northern facade is made of cutstone and keel-shaped arches wereused for the windows and portal lead-ing to the antechamber. The portalhas got a niche with muqarnas orna-mentation. Floral ornamentation andgrapes are used in the portal as well.

Selaml›k

It is worth heading to selaml›k fromthe ‹shak Pafla Mosque’s door; takethe corridor on the right next to thelibrary and head through what was acourtroom where, to the left, is asignposted balcony with good views.An interesting throne was set up sothat someone seated or stand on itcan enjoy the view over the Urartianremains. Besides ornamentationsrepresenting a human body and hand,which can be interpreted as symbolis-ing superior intelligence, there arealso figures of an eagle, signifyingsupremacy in the air, and a lion,symbolising for strength.

‹shak Pafla Mosque

Accessible through a masterpiece of astone door featuring a frame with

tendril and leaf ornamentation, undera keel-shaped arch and situatedbetween harem and selaml›k, themosque was designed with care. Ithas a dome above its southern halfand an extra section in the northernpart for the use of women. Well pre-served, it can be classified as exhibit-ing Baroque influences (Style ofEuropean architecture). Inside, thedome is plastered and decorated withtree and flower motifs. Outside thedome is surrounded with a terracefrom where the dome can beadmired. The minaret, with a singlebalcony, has Baroque ornamentationsand is of beige and brown stones. Twocolumns were the victims of thieves

Ornamentations (44)

View of the palace(45)

who managed to get away with thelead decorations.

Living quarters

To the west of the second courtyard,the Pafla’s living area is a rectangularblock with two corridors. On thenorthern and western sides are twostoreys of rooms that enclose thecentral area consisting of ahamam, kitchen and cere-monial hall.

Entrance from thesecond courtyard

The living quarters and inparticular the entranceleading from the secondcourtyard to them doesn’tseem to offer much pro-tected from armed inva-sions. Still, the wholebuilding gives an impres-sion of calm, dominatingthe large plain and affording viewsof the mountains.

The entrance is designed with dif-ferent architecture styles thatcombine to create an impressionof harmony and nicely inte-grate with an enhance therest of the palace. Made of11 columns, it bears Baroque,Rococo, Seljuk and Ottoman-stylemotifs with leaf reliefs on the upperpart. The door opens in to a corridor

with a classic Ottoman fountain onone side and gives access to the cabinof the attendant on the other side.

Hamam

At the end of the corridor is a hamam,built to a classical two-part plan withone area dedicated to bathing and thesecond one for dressing. The twoparts had domes but since the roofscollapsed, there is no indication ofhow the lighting system wasdesigned.

Harem

The portal of the harem is even morebeautifully sculpted than the portalsopening on the first and secondcourtyards. Although the years madetheir work, the two story harem (theside set for women) is still wellpreserved, especially its 2nd entrancedoor. It is believed that the rooms

were built on two storeys and thewhole harem probablydesigned as an L. The beautiful

rooms are all open to the exteriorwith two windows with view andornamented with one chimney

between these two windows.

Kitchen

The palace kitchen on thesecond floor wasconnected to the haremand could also have beenaccessed via steps leading

up from the corridor. The roofis an interesting construction, rest-ing on four columns.

Ceremonial andrecreational hall

The place where the Pafla usedto give parties and receive com-plaints is a total Baroque-style

room divided in three parts and orna-mented with rich niches all over thewalls. On top of the niches areinscriptions celebrating the palace.


Entr

ance

to 2

nd c

ourt

yard

(46)

A detail from ‹shak Pafla palace (47)

Ehmedê Xanî Tomb

Derdê Me/ Our PainSaqî! Tu ji bo Xwedê kerem ke / Bartender, for the love of God, pleaseYek cir’e meyê di camê Cem ke / Pour some wine into the crystal glass. [6]

Da cam-i bi mey cîhannuma bit / Let the glass of wine reveal to the world.Herçî me îradeye xuya bit / Let there appear here whatever we wish.

Da keflf-i bi bit li ber me ehwal / Let events ahead of us come to light.Kanê di bitin miyesser îqbal? / Let us know if the future holds promise for us.

Îdbare me wa giha kemalê / Look, our misfortune has reached its peak.Aya bûye qabilê zewalê? / Will conditions improve, do you think?

Ya her wehe dê li istîwa bit, / Or will they remain,Hetta weku dewrê minteha bit? / Until upon us comes the end of time?

Qet mimkune ev ji çerxê lewleb: / Is it possible, I wonder, that for us, too, Tali’ bi bitin ji bo me kewkeb, / A star will emerge out of the firmament?

Bextê me ji bo me re bibit yar / Let lady luck be on our side for once.Carek bi bitin ji xwabê heflyar / Let there emerge from within us, too

You mayhave toqueue brieflyto visit thistomb of thefamouspoet andphilosopherEhmedê Xanî

(1651–1707/1709), just a shortwalk to the north of the palace.Ehmedê Xanî was born atDo¤ubayaz›t (alternative accountssay he was born in Hakkâri), theson of fiêx Îlyas, who worked as ateacher of the Sînaniye Madrasahof Do¤ubayaz›t. He attended hisfather’s madrasah and several othermadrasahs in the region andbecame fluent in Arabic, Persianand dialects of Kurdish other thanhis own. Returning to Do¤ubayaz›t,he lectured at his father’smadrasah. He is mostly known forhis epic Mem û Zîn (1692),considered the epitome of theKurdish literature. The poem is, onthe face of it, about two loversMem and Zîn trying to meet, butsome critics say Mem is in fact a

Kurd and Zin is the Kurdish home-land. He also wrote anArabic–Kurdish dictionary forchildren, Nûbihara Biçûkan, andEqîdeya Îmanê (“The Path ofFaith”), which explains the fivepillars of Islam. In most of his workshe pays great attention to hismother tongue and his Kurdishpatriotism was incredibly powerful.His tomb is still visited by thousandsevery year, particularly at Newrozon 21st of March (see p: 248). Themosque next door is often packedwith people saying prayers after vis-iting the tomb.

Ehm

edê

Xanî

(48)

Ehmedê Xanî’s tomb (49)

614

Do¤ubayaz›t Kalesi

You can see traces of Urartiansettlement in a place called Belleburçnortheast of ‹shak Pafla Palace, wherethe walls of the original fortress stillstand on the steep rocks opposite thetomb of Ehmedê Xanî and through thenewly built public park the little 4th-century BC fortress was originallycalled Daryunk. A cemetery found hereprobably dates from some timebetween the 13th and 9th centuriesBC. It is commonly believed that theArmenians and Yezidi used the innerparts of the fortress as secretworship places.

Under the Seljuks the fortress wasregularly used to accommodatetravellers on the Silk Road. Thefortress was in good condition up untilthe end of the 14th century when itwas under the rule of the Celayir, aTurcoman tribe related to theAkkoyunlu. When the Ottomans con-quered the region after the battle ofÇald›ran, Sultan Beyaz›t I had thefortress renovated. After his death thefortress became known as Beyaz›t inhis honour, though it also fell intoneglect subsequently.

In the inner part of the fortress isthe Beyaz›t Eski Camii, built duringSultan Selim I’s reign. TypicalOttoman, the mosque has asquare plan and a singledome, and is built of stone ofred, yellow, brown and white.Beautifully seated on the

side of the mountain, the mosqueimpresses with its elegant simplicity.In order to get there you need to crossto the far side of the palace from themosque and head up the mountainpath for around 200m.

Kefliflin Bahçesi (Monks’ Garden)

Legend says that this garden in thelower part of old Do¤ubeyaz›t, an oasisof green in this arid region, was thescene of a tragic love story betweentwo young persons of different faiths.Locals will tell you that Sultan’s sonKerem fell in love with a Christianmonk’s daughter Asl›, and that theirsad story somehow ended up withsuicide in this very garden. A happierversion claims that the garden was theplace where they used to meetsecretly, though it still ends with tragicsuicide here only once their affair wasfound out. The place is now used as atea garden and restaurant as well as apicnic site.


The Golden Hill Otel (0472 312 8717) is afour-star place 1km out of the town on thebeltway. One of the newest places in town,it has facilities such as restaurant, saunaand hamam.

Paraflüt Camping ve Lokanta(0472 312 71 19), located on topof the hill above the palace,offers lovely views of thesurrounding area and good localfare including kebabs and rak›.


Toward Kale and camii(50)


The Meteor Crater in Sar›çavufl

The huge meteor crater in Sar›çavuflvillage, 35km east of Do¤ubeyaz›t andjust 2km from the Iranian border,appeared in 1913. It is a substantialcrater, 35m wide and 60m deep, andone of the world’s largest.

Ice Caves (Buz Ma¤aras›)

At the foot of Mount Küçük A¤r› 40kmnortheast of Do¤ubeyaz›t are thesenatural caves. You can access anegg-shaped cave, 100m long and 9munderground, via the village of Halaç.The floor and the walls of the cave arecovered with basalt and ice, changing

colors according to the season; thewater most probably freezes followinga special chemical reaction due to theair in the cave. Some birds managed toset their nest in the cave, suggestingthat the air is not harmful. Lightfiltering through plays on the colouredrocks and if you visit in summer, it isquite a surprise to find a place thatstays frozen, whereas in winter thecave is warmer than the surroundings.To get there you can take a localdolmufl.

Bal›k Gölü (Fish Lake)

A good spot for an excursion is thislake 60km northwest of Do¤ubeyaz›ton the way to A¤r›. This is the highestlake in Turkey, 2200m above sea level,and has beaches and facilities on itssouthern shore. The lake is totallyfrozen in winter with ice 20cm thick,tough enough for people and cars tocross it. The red trout in the lake areendemic to it and are served up inevery local restaurant.

Ice cave(51)

The meteor crater in Sar›çavufl village (52)

Travelling around in this region islargely a matter of using buses anddolmufles, which are shared vehiclesoperating on set routes and function-ing as buses. Trains do exist but thelocal rail network is slow and in needof investment. At press time therewere no internal flights within theregion itself, though there is talk oflaunching a service betweenDiyarbak›r and Van. The main cities –Ad›yaman, A¤ri, Diyarbak›r, Elaz›¤,Mardin, Mufl, Siirt, Urfa and Van –have air connections with Ankaraand/or Istanbul, Izmir and Antalyawith Turkish Airlines (THY) and/orsome budget operators such as: OnurAir, Pegasus, Sun Expres, Atlass Jet,Anadolu Jet.

Intercity buses and dolmufl

Intercity road transport services gen-erally run from depots called otogars,sometimes centrally located but moreoften outside the city centre; you maywell find you need to catch a city busor dolmufl to the otogar to start yourjourney proper.

Intercity buses are run by a variety oflocal companies and are adequate andcomfortable, older vehicles can becramped and a little dilapidated, andthe air-conditioning or heating maynot be up to par but the fares are rea-sonable. Tickets can be booked inadvance at the otogar, though some-times you may find the bus companieshave ticket offices in the city centreitself, in which case they may alsooffer free transport from their office tothe otogar. Tickets may have assignedseating, but people may well sit wherethey choose or swap seats as the jour-ney progresses, and note that a cer-tain amount of musical chairs willtake place so that women do not endup next to male strangers.

Dolmufles are vans or minibuses thatoperate like buses on set routes, serv-ing not just the major towns and citiesbut also many villages. While busesoperate to a timetable, dolmufles sim-ply leave when they are full or nearlyfull. This makes dolmufles a very con-venient way to travel as services on

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Train Station (1)

Public Transport 619

popular routes are frequent (thoughvillage dolmufles may run just once aday to and from the nearest largetown). Tickets are not sold in advance;instead, you turn up at the otogar, goto the appropriate area where vehiclesto your destination are clustered (lookout for signs at the depot or on thedolmufles themselves), and indicateyour intention to travel to the driver orone of the workers at the office of theco-operative or company that oper-ates the vehicles. If your destination isunusual – not a town or village but aparticular spot on the highway, forexample – then it can be worth havingsomeone write down the address orlocation, perhaps mentioning a land-mark as well in case the driverdoesn’t know it.

You might be asked to pay your farebefore the vehicle leaves, or some-times you only pay once on board thevehicle, in which case you may beasked to help relay not just your owncash but also that of the other pas-sengers between the driver and theback rows of the vehicle. Providedthere are spare seats, it is also possi-ble to flag down intercity dolmufles onthe highway at certain spots, forexample at turnings for villages, inwhich case you will pay your fare tothe driver. Fares are comparable tothose on buses.

Whether you travel by bus or dolmufl,note that there are hardly any inter-city services at night; the last depar-tures are usually just before sunset.

Trains

Turkey’s trains are operated byTürkiye Cumhuriyeti DevletDemiryollari (TCDD), or Turkish StateRailways (www.tcdd.gov.tr ). Within thesoutheast, the rail network is limitedto three lines. One runs betweenMalatya and Tatvan via Elaz›¤ andMufl, another between Malatya andKurtalan via Diyarbak›r, while the thirdline runs from Gaziantep to Nusaybin.There are trains all the way fromHaydarpafla station in ‹stanbul viaAnkara to Tatvan and to Kurtalan, andsleeper services are available.

City transport

The main cities of the southeast havea mixture of local buses and/ordolmufles which can be useful if youneed to get across town or out to theotogar or airport; ask the tourist officeor at your hotel for details. Dolmuflstops tend to be marked with a signcontaining the letter D. Taxis are goodways of getting around too, the Yellowtaxis easily can be found in the mainstreets, they are used to and from air-port as well as crossing borders in toIraq and Syria. In the large cites suchas Diyarbak›r recently daily and week-ly travel card schemes has been intro-duced by the municipality. This popu-lar system can be ideal for the touristwhom planning longer stay in themain cities.

Bus Station (2)

City Bus (3)

The accommodation picture in south-east is pretty straightforward. Themain cities and towns have a range ofmidrange hotels, and may also have acouple of pricier, plush establishmentswith fancy facilities. Hotels at thelower end of the midrange bracket aretypically characterless modern build-ings with rather plain and sometimesdated decor, but they are comfortableenough, with en-suite rooms and serv-ing a hearty breakfast (generallyincluded in the rate). Facilities at top-flight and the better midrange hotelsextend to things like foreign channelsbeing available on your TV, smartrestaurants and cafés or perhapssomething that can pass for a night-club, a swimming pool, a gym and/orsauna. At the other end of the scale,the cheap hotels are very basically fur-nished and are unlikely to feature anyWestern-style sit-down toilets, centralheating or breakfast, but the betterones are more than tolerable. Pricesfor all types of hotel are usually rea-

sonable and noticeably lower than inwestern Turkey.

Southeastern Turkey being relativelyuntouristed, hostels are largelyunknown here. However, in smalltowns you will come across theö¤retmenevi (“teacher’s house”), akind of guesthouse which nowadaysdoes not provide accommodation justfor teachers. Fairly simple affairs, theyonly have dorm-style rooms but at thesame time are reasonably well kept,safe for women travelers and notexpensive; cheap breakfasts andlunches may also be served. Beds areprobably easiest to come by outsideterm time, but you may well be able toget in at any time of year. Some citiesalso have the option of guesthousesrun by the municipality (belediye),which can offer a good deal. They’reusually located in or close to the citycentre next to or behind the municipal-ity offices; ask at the tourist office fordetails.

ACCOMMODATION

Hotel room (1)

620

Reception (2)

Hotel (3)

Hotel Resturant (4)

If people outside Turkey have any con-cept of Local food at all, it’s often ofdöner kebap sandwiches of variablequality served by small, unprepossess-ing fast-food joints. If you have thesame view, prepare to be pleasantlysurprised when you come to thisregion: the cuisine here is simply oneof the best in the world, with complexi-ties and refinements on a par withFrench or Chinese food. Greek andLebanese cooking are the closest culi-nary cousins, but some would arguethe food in Turkey is arguably betterthan either of these. Main meals andsnacks alike impress with their use offresh ingredients as well as interestingherbs and spices, and there are alsosome tantalising sweets and dessertsto choose from.

The region offers an added twist inthat the food that is unsurprisinglydominated by Kurdish and to a muchlesser extent Arabic cuisine, both ofwhich have some distinctive touchesthat set them apart from mainstreamTurkish fare. The mezes – spreads ofhot and cold morsels, including dips

and salads – that you find elsewhere inTurkey are fairly rare here, and insteadthere is more of an emphasis onstews, often eaten with rice. It’s alsothe case that some of the food can bepretty spicy, particularly in the regionstretching from Urfa to Diyarbak›r, andoccasionally you will encounter unusu-al ingredients that just aren’t found inmainstream Turkish cooking – forexample kenger (milk-thistle), a popu-lar herb in Kurdish food.

Places to eat

Just as the food is diverse, so are thedifferent kinds of food outlets in thestreet, and it pays to be able to distin-guish between them and what theyoffer. For many tourists, the most con-venient places to eat, offering decent

FOOD AND DRINK

Güveç (1)

Grilled pepper (2)

Food and Drink 623

value for money too, are lokantas.These are basically simple, almostcafeteria-like restaurants which offerhaz›r yemek – a range of dishescooked in advance, including stews(sulu yemek), and displayed in glasscabinets. The majorsoutheastern citiesalso have a handfulof posher restau-rants, ranging fromestablishmentsserving fairly stan-dard fare in plushsurrounding to patis-series (pastane) thatspecialise in cakes andpuddings, including many Western-style concoctions. Standards of serviceare good, as many staff will have beentrained or have worked in more cos-mopolitan western Turkey. Price is notthe sole indicator of quality though –some of the cheaper restaurants

where locals gather may serve excep-tional food.

Meat lovers will find it worthwhileseeking out ocakbaflis, where you canwatch the meat being cooked at thecentrally placed grill. Other outletsspecialising in particular kinds of foodinclude kebapç›s and çorbac›s, servingrespectively kebabs and soups such asmercimek (red lentil) and iflkembe(tripe) also Kelle paça.

Main meals

Walk into a typical restaurant and youwill find a lot of a food available

already on display –the haz›r yemek, ifavailable, will besitting there intrays, and thekebabs will beskewered and ready

to cook to order. Ofthe several types of

kebab available, themost ubiquitous is Adana

kebap, minced lamb mixed with onion,herbs and spices; it’s usually spicythanks to the use of a paste madefrom red peppers, but you can ask fora non-spicy (sade) version too. Lesscommon are köfte (meatballs), whichlikewise come in several varieties,including içli köfte, fried lumps ofmeat, onion and rice or bulgur wheat;and çi¤ köfte, which is meat, tomatoes,parsley, onion, herbs and spices com-bined and served raw, like theLebanese kibe. Other meaty dishesworth investigating including kaburga,ribs; kuflbafl›, a kebab containing

Lentil soup (3)

Hospitality (6)

Bread (4)

Patisserie (5)


chunks of beef or lamb; tavuk flifl,chicken pieces cooked on skewers;and güveç, a combination of meat andvegetable pieces baked in a small claycasserole. Fish doesn’t make thatmuch of an appearance this far fromthe Mediterranean, but you will comeacross fresh river fish such as troutavailable in certain towns.

Two doughy dishes can serve as mainmeals. Lahmacun, Turkey’s answer topizza, is fairly common; it usually hasa thin meat topping and a thin, roundcrust. Also to be found is pide, with athicker rectangular crust that can bevariously topped with cheese,egg or mincedmeat.Gözlemeis a crepecontainingherbs and cheese thatis more of an accompaniment than ameal in itself; you can tell when it’savailable as restaurants like to havewomen making the stuff seated nearthe front window.

Whether you end up having a pre-cooked stew or something

cooked to order, yourmeal will be accom-panied by bread and

a green salad whichincludes cucumber and

tomatoes and comes with lemons anda pomegranate juice dressing; boththe bread and salad are included inthe price of the meal. You may also begiven a relish made of tomatoes,cucumber, onion and garlic. The bread

Kebap (7)

Making Lahmacun (8)

Lahmacun (9)

Food and Drink 625

itself varies widely, from somethinglike French bread to flat unleavenedyufka similar to what is served inneighbouring Arab countries.

You may wish to supplement the breadwith an order of pilav, fluffy ricecooked with a little oil and salt, andexcellent with stews. Occasionally youwill also come across fancy rice disheslike perde pilav, in which the rice iscooked with pieces of chicken, black-currant, yoghurt, pine nuts andalmonds; it’ll be displayed at the frontof the restaurant if available. The otherdish in which rice always makes anappearance is dolma, vegetables suchas courgettes, aubergine andsquashed stuffed with a mixture of rice

and meat and perhaps also sumac,tomato paste and onion.

When ordering, note that menus areusually in Turkish only; if you know theKurdish name of a dish, it’s worth ask-ing for it even if you don’t see anythingresembling it on the menu.

Fresh Fish (10)

Perde Pilav (11)

Dolma (12)

Dolma (13)

For vegetarians, the regiondoes present more challengesthan the rest of the country.Restaurant fare tends toemphasise meat – partly as acontrast to home cooked food,for which people often have toeconomise by focusing onvegetables – andyou can’t rely onvegetarianselectionsfrom mezes asthese aren’tcommon here. If you can eatout with localfriends or havesome ability to speakKurdish or Turkish, you may beable to order vegetarian ver-sions of regular dishes likegüveç. As for standard farethat you can eat, in lokantas,taze fasulye (green beansstewed with tomatoes) or kurufasulye (like baked beans in awatery gravy) are satisfyingwith rice and salad (and makesure not to just have to havethe standard salad but toexplore other options, as sal-

ads can be excellent). Redlentil soup is common, not justat breakfast time, and alwayssatisfying with bread; pide,gözleme and börek are goodfor a bit of variety, but youmay have difficulty finding

places that serve the firsttwo. At least in big-

ger towns andcities you willbe able tocount on find-ing a fewWestern-style

pizzerias andpatisseries, and

you should makethe most of the buffet

breakfast in your hotel if itoffers one, as they offer plentyfor vegetarians.If you are vegan or are strictabout not touching food thatmight contain meat stock(which can creep into manystews and soups), you mayfind it worth supplementingwhat you can find in restau-rants with the excellent freshproduce available in marketsand shops.

Vegetarian food

Traditional meals (14)

Beans (15)

626

Food and Drink 627

Breakfast, snacks and desserts

Top-bracket and midrange hotels bothoffer hearty buffet breakfasts, whichare the ideal way to fill up for a busyday of sightseeing. The typical spreadfeatures savoury items such as boiledeggs, a range of olives and localcheeses, sliced cucumber and tomato,sometimes soup, plus jams, honey andperhaps tahini or helva (a thick tahini-based spread), all accompanied bycopious quantities of bread and tea.The better hotels may also serve coldmeats and fruit, Western cereals suchas corn flakes or muesli,plus coffee.

If you need to findbreakfast on thestreet, commonoptions includesoup at a çor-bac› (particular-ly gratifying on acold morning),simit – tasty rings ofbread coated withsesame seeds and oftensold by street vendors – and börek,which is an umbrella term for a rangeof foods made with filo pastry. One of

the most common types of börek is suböre¤i (literally “water börek”), inwhich the pastry is boiled and servedup with small pieces of cheese, pro-ducing a filling dish that’s not unlike asomewhat plain tagliatelle. Also avail-able are the sweet Kürt böre¤i(Kurdish börek) is sigara böre¤i, sonamed because it’s meant to resemblecigars, though it wouldn’t be stretchingit to call them elongated spring rolls,stuffed with cheese and fried till gold-en brown. Börek also make goodsnacks at any time of day.

Nuts, including great pista-chios, and dried cooked

pulses such aschickpeas (gar-

banzo beans) area popular snackfood in Turkeyand are sold atshops labelled

“kuru yemifl”,which translates

as “dried fruit”.Needless to say they

also sell dried apricots andraisins, plus dried-fruit confectionssuch as the sheet-like pestil and thetubular tatl› sucuk.

Full breakfast (16)

Breakfast (17)


Sweet shops sell a variety of baklava,combinations of filo pastry with nutfillings. In areas close to theSyrian border especially,look out also for künefe,and kaday›f pastriescontaining a layer ofshredded filo pastryas well as cheese. Ofseveral pudding-like

desserts served in restaurants andpatisseries, the most common is süt-

laç, a baked rice pudding, though it’snot necessarily that exciting.

Chocaholics will adoresüpangle, a sort ofchocolate blancmangecontaining a small por-tion of chocolatesponge.

Jam and Sigara böre¤i (18)

Baklava (19)

Cheese bazaar (20)

Food and Drink 629

Drinks

Tea is served black( in some region morestrong), unsugared andstrong – you may well findyourself needed to dilutethe stuff with hot water. Otherthan at breakfast, it’s served atall restaurants and at teahouses(k›raathane or çayxane) and open-air

tea gardens (çay bahçesi). So-calledTurkish coffee (Türk kahvesi), similarto Arabic coffee and served black insmall cups, is sold at more upmarketcafés and teahouses; ask for sade ifyou want it unsweetened, or ortaflekerli if you like it moderately sweetin some places in the region you canalso find locally made melengiç coffee.Posher patisseries and more upmar-ket cafés may have somethingapproaching a proper cappucino orespresso.

Fruit juices arewidely available in

bottles or cartonsand can be moreinteresting thansimilar prod-ucts in othercountries; try

the cranberry-like viflne (sour

cherry), for example.Bizarrely, some places also

serve hot juices and squashes, which

Open tea house (21)

Turk

ish

coff

ee (2

2)

Melengiç (23)


might be worth a taste on a coldevening. Another good drink to have isayran, an unsweetened affair likewatery buttermilk.

As for alcohol, Efes is the nationalbeer, and rak›, like the Greek ouzo, thenational spirit. the region also has aninteresting selection of wines such asthose made by Doluca. Both Diyarbak›rand Elaz›¤ are known for theirBo¤azkere and Öküzgözü grapes, usedfor wine-making. Whichever of theseyou want to drink, you will find thatrestaurants in general do not servealcohol, though some in expensivehotels might. Every city has a fewlicensed drinking dens called lokals,which are large places strategicallyplaced away from mosques and withtheir curtains drawn. Most have maleclientele (although there are somebars which they have mixed cus-tomers); what is surprising is thatthese are the only places in the south-east where you can reliably ordermeze as an accompaniment to your

boozing. Otherwise you can buy alco-hol in liquor stores labelled Tekel,which also have a small space at theback where locals can consume thestuff. Some specialist stores, includingjeweller’s in Mardin and larger Tekelshops, may also sell Süryani (Syriac)wines made by the Syrian Orthodoxcommunity.

Ayran (24) Süryani wine (25)

M›rra service (26)

Abdigor köfte: boiled meat-balls containing a little butter

Aflure afl›: a pudding made ofcereals, dried and fresh fruits,nuts, sugar and spices,sometimesreferred to as“Noah’s pud-ding” as it iswhat Noahate.

Babakanuç: roastaubergine is peeledand the pulp mashedwith and crushedgarlic

Mant› (h›ngen):ravioli-like dumplingsfilled with mincedmeat and boiled insalted water

Büryan (perive): young lamblowered into a clay oven like awell and slow-cookedovernight. The büryan thentaken out and hung up forsale in restaurants. A populardish, it’s not expensive and itsmost ardent fans have it forbreakfast.

Keledofl: a combination ofbaked stale bread, mincedmeat, onion, garlic andyoghurt; a good way of usingleftover bread

Kelle paça (serû pê): calves’heads or legs, smoked in atand›r (traditional oven) thencooked in a large pot with gar-lic and herbs

Kuzu dolma:baked leg oflamb stuffedwith rice, pista-chios and herbs

Meftune: meatfried with

aubergine, peppers,tomatoes and sumac

Ayran afl› (Mehîr):rice with yoghurt andusually chickpeas

Mumbar(hûr û rovî): tripe(intestine) stuff withminced meat, bulgur

wheat, herbs, garlic and pepper.

Tirflik: the term can refer topickles, but it is also a type ofgüveç containing tomatoes,peppers, aubergine, meat andgarlic

Some dishes to look out for:

Büryan (28)Abdigör Köfte (27)

Keledofl (31)

Here are a few less common dishes to look out for; in somecases you will find them in restaurants, but some you will onlytaste if invited to someone’s home.

Güveç (29)

Meftune (30)

631


A¤a: Lord

AH: Denoting years according to the Islamic calendar

Akkoyunlu: A dynasty dominated east of Anatolia in medieval age

Alevi: A branch of Islamic belief who believe in Imam Ali

Antik Kenti: Ancient city

Bayram: Religious Feast

Bêrîvan: Milkmaid/Also the name of a flower

Beg, Bey: Local lord, sir

Beylik: Lordship/Area controlled by a Bey

Cadde(si): Street

Çem: River

Dengbêj: The Kurdish story tellers or singers who sings without any instruments

Dengbêjî: A Kurdish musical genre featuring unaccompanied singing, and the practitioners of this art

Dîwan: The concert of Dengbêjs

Dolmufl: Minibus

Feqî: Student in a madrasah

Hamidiye forces: The military forces worked in Kurdish region at the last Period of Ottoman Empire

Han: Inn

Harem(lik): A place special for women in palaces and mansions also a part of old Houses which made just for women.

Hizbullah: A radical Islamic group effective in

1990s in Turkey

‹mam: Prayer leader in a mosque

‹maret: Kitchen in a mosque where foods are being distributed to the poor

Iwan: Hall or space, walled on three sides, with one end entirely open

GLOSSARY

Glosary 633

Jandarma: Soldiers

Jamatun: Church entrance

Kale(si): Castle, fortress, citadel

Kenger: A widely used local vegetable cooked as traditional dish, sometimes it’s mixed with eggs

Kilim: Rug

Kiras/fîstan: A form of Kurdish female costume

Konak: Large private residence or mansion; also the main government building of a province or a city

Kurban: The Feast of the Sacrifice, celebrated at the end of the Hajj pilgrimage

Kûfî: An early style of Arabic calligraphy

Külliye(si): A mosque complex which usually includes a hospital and madrasah

Kümbet: Free-standing mausoleum

Madrasah: Religious school

Mervanid: A Kurdish dynasty dominated in the region

Meydan: Square

Mihrab: Niche in a mosque wall indicating the direction of Mecca

Minber: The imam’s pulpit in a mosque

Mîr: Local Kurdish lord

Muhtar: Village or ward headman

Muqarnas: A part of mosque building

fial û flapik: A form of Kurdish male costume

Selaml›k: The part of an Ottoman residence reserved for men or entertaining Visitors (as its meaning in book: a part of old houses which made just for men)

Seyîd: Descent of the Prophet Muhammad

Sheikh/fieyh/ fiêx: Head of a group of dervishes, religious elder in general or head of tribe

Sokak: Small street/lane

Türbe(si): Domed tomb

Ulu Cami: Great Mosque

Village Guards: The government paid armed villagers (Korucu)

SundayMondayTuesdayWednesdayThursdayFridaySaturday

Pazar Pazartesi Sal› Çarflamba Perflembe Cuma Cumartesi

YekflemDuflemSêflemÇarflemPêncflemÎnfiemî

YewflemeDiflemeHîrflemeÇarflemePancflemeÊnefieme


TRAVEL DICTIONARY

MONTHS / AYLAR

English Turkish Kurmancî Zazakî

JanuaryFebruaryMarchAprilMayJuneJulyAugustSeptemberOctoberNovemberDecember

Ocak fiubat Mart Nisan May›s Haziran Temmuz A¤ustos Eylül Ekim Kas›m Aral›k

Kanûna paflîn, çileSibatAdarNîsanGulanHezîran TîrmehTebaxÎlon, êlûnÇiriya pêflînÇiriya paflînKanûna pêflîn

Kanûno peyîn.çeleSibatEdarNîsanGulanHezîranTemûzTebaxHêlûnÇileyo verînÇileyo peyinKanûno verîn

NUMBERS / SAYILAR

SpringSummerAutumnWinter

SEASONS / MEVS‹MLER

‹lkbahar Yaz Sonbahar K›fl

BiharHavînPayîzZivistan

WisarAminanPayîzZimistan

DAYS / GÜNLER

OneTwoThreeFourFiveSixSevenEightNineTenElevenTwelveThirteen

Bir ‹ki Üç Dört Befl Alt› Yedi Sekiz Dokuz On On bir On iki On üç

YekDuSêÇarPêncfieflHeftHefltNehDehYazdehDozdehSêzdeh

YewDiHireCharPancfieflHewtHefltNewDesYewindesDiyesHîryes

Travel Dictionary 635

TwentyThirtyFortyFiftySixtySeventyEigthNinetyOne hundredOne hundred fortyTwo hundredFirstSecondThird

NUMBERS / SAYILAR

Yirmi Otuz K›rk Elli Altm›fl Yetmifl Seksen Doksan Yüz Yüz k›rk ‹ki yüz Birinci ‹kinci Üçüncü

BîstSîÇilPêncîfiêstHeftêHefltêNodSedSed û çilDusedA yekê, yekem, yekemîn A duduyan, duwem, duwemînA sisêyan, sêyem, sêyemîn

VîstHîrisÇewresPancesfiefltîHewtayHefltayNewaySeSe û çewresDi seyA yewine ,yewînA diyine, diyinA hîrine, hîreyin

NowLaterAlwaysNeverSometimesEarly/lateTodayYesterdayTomorrow…(two) days laterMorningNoonAfternoonEveningDayNightHourMinuteWeekMonthWhat time is it?It is…(four) o’clockIt is 8.10

It is 10.45

Before/after

fiimdi Sonra Her zaman, hep Hiç bir zaman, asla Bazen Erken/geç Bugün/yar›n Dün Yar›n… (iki) gün sonra Sabah Ö¤len Ö¤leden sonra Akflam GünGece Saat Dakika HaftaAySaat kaç? Saat … (dört) Sekizi on geçiyor

On bire çeyrek var

Önce/Sonra

Niha, vêgaPaflêHer tim, her dem, timTu car, qetCarnaZû/derengÎro/sibêDuhSibêPifltî … (du) rojanSibe, sibehNîvroPifltî nîvroÊvarRojfievSaetDeqeHefteMehSaet çend e?Saet (çar) e…Ji hefltan dibihure deh deqeJi yazdehan kêm pazde deqePêflî/Paflê, paflîka

NikaPeyraHeme gave, heme rayeQetCarnaLez/ereyEwro/sibaVizêreySibaPey Di rojan SibaNîmrojPey nîmrojîfianRojfieweSaetDeqa HefteAsmi/AflmSaet çenda Saet çar aHefltine ra desDeqeyî viyerena Yewindesinerê kemîpancês deqeyî Viyernî/Peynî

T‹MES / ZAMAN


COMMON WORDS AND PHRASES / GÜNLÜK KONUfiMALAR

English Turkish

Good morningGood dayGood eveningGood nightHelloGoodbyeWelcomeSee youHave a nice journeyYesNoPleaseThanksThank you (very much)You are welcomeExcuse meI beg your pardonHere you areOKSureMaybeI don’t knowI don’t understandI seeOne minuteI want…Yes (there is…)No (there isn’t…)Welcome(Reply to “welcome”)Goodbye (said by the person departing)Goodbye (said by person staying)(Used to invite people somewhere or offer food, drinks)In your honour, in your health(Compliment to the person who cooks)May it be in your past (said to someone who is ill,stressed or has just overcome an accident, injury ordifficulty)May you have a good health (said to someone who hasjust had a bath, shower or haircut)Stay happy (used as an alternative to goodbye)

Günayd›n ‹yi günler ‹yi akflamlar ‹yi geceler Merhaba/SelamGüle güle Hofl geldin Görüflürüz ‹yi yolculuklar Evet Hay›r Lütfen Teflekkürler, sa¤ ol, mersi (Çok) Teflekkür ederim Bir fley de¤il Affedersiniz Pardon, özür dilerim Buyrun Tamam Tabii Belki Bilmiyorum Anlam›yorum, anlamad›m Anlad›m Bir dakika … istiyorum … var … yok Hofl geldinHofl bulduk Allaha›smarlad›k Güle güle Buyrun fierefe Elinize sa¤l›k Geçmifl olsun

S›hhatler olsun

Hoflça kal



Kurmancî Zazakî

Rojbafl/Beyanîbafl, roja we bi xêrRojbafl/Roja we bi xêr beÊvarbaflfievbaflMerheba/SilavOxir beTu bi xêr hatîEm ê hevdu bibîninSer xêrê here/Bi xêr here /Rêya te vekirî beErê, belêNaJi kerema xwe reSpas, sax bî(Gelek) SpasSpasxweflBiborin, bibexflîninLi min bibore, lêborîna xwe dixwazimKerem bikin, fermoBafl eHelbet BêgumanBelkî / Dibe kuEz nizanimEz fam nakim, min fam nekirMin fam kirDeqeyekêEz dixwazim …… heye… nîn eTu bi xêr hatî Di nav xêrê de bî,/ Bi xatirê te – we / Oxir be Fermo Nofl Destê we sax be/ Destê we ter bin Derbasbûyî be, Derbasî be/

Sihet be

Bimîne di nav xwefliyê de

Siba flima xêr boRoja flîma xêr bo / Rojebaflfian wefle bofiewe wefle boMerheba/SilamOxir boTi bi xêr ameyMa yew bînî bivînimXeyrî ser flo/Bi xêr floBelêNêKeremê xo rêSpas kena wefl bêZef spas kenaSpas wefl boEfû bike / bexfl bikeUzrê xo wazena / Mîn bexfl bîkeKerem bikeBafloHelbetBelkîEz nêzanaEz fam nêkena / Min fam nêkerdMin fam kerdDeqeyêkeEz wazenaEsto / EstaÇiniyo / ÇiniyaTi bi xêr ameyê /AmeyaMiyanê xêrî de bêBi xatirê to- flimaOxir boKerem bikifiîfaDest to ternî bê/Destê flima ternî bêDerbasî bo

Sihet bo

Bimanê weflî de



Bless you(Reply to “bless you”)May your soul be safe (said to someone who has just accidentally done something)How are you?Fine, thank you.Nice to meet youWhat is your name?Do you speak English?Where are you from?How old are you?I am…years old.I am English/ScottishEnough/MoreGood/BadNew/OldOpen/ClosedBig/SmallHot/ColdEmpty/FullCheap/ExpensiveFast/SlowNear/FarComfortable/UncomfortableClean/DirtyNoisy/QuietNot…AndOrMr; follows the first nameMrs/Miss; follows the first nameLady (polite way of addressing a woman)Master craftsmanSomeone who has made the pilgrimage to MeccaCaretaker or warden at an archaeologicalsite or monumentWhat’s the weather like?Sunny/Cloudy/Rainy/Snowy/Foggy/WindyAnother…Service chargeDiscountedValue added taxFlat-weave rug without a pile

Çok yafla Sen de gör Can›n sa¤ olsun

Nas›ls›n›z?‹yiyim, teflekkürlerMemnun oldum‹sminiz ne?‹ngilizce biliyor musunuz?Nerelisiniz?Kaç yafl›ndas›n›z?… yafl›nday›m‹ngilizim/‹skoçyal›y›m/Yeter/Daha ‹yi/Kötü Yeni/Eski Aç›k/Kapal› Büyük/Küçük S›cak/So¤uk Bofl/Dolu Ucuz/Pahal› H›zl›/Yavafl Yak›n/Uzak Rahat/Rahats›z Temiz/Pis Gürültülü/Sakin … de¤il Ve Veya Bey Bayan Han›m Usta Hac› Bekçi

Hava nas›l? Güneflli/Bulutlu/Ya¤murlu/Karl›/sisli/Rüzgarl› Baflka bir … Servis ücreti ‹ndirimli Katma De¤er VergisiKilim



A xêrê be / Her bijî Xêrê bibîne Bila canê te sax be

Hûn çawan in? Ez bafl im, spasEz kêfxwefl bûmNavê te çi ye? Hûn bi îngilizî dizanin? Tu bi îngilizî dizanîTu ji ku derê yî?Tu çend salî yî?Ez … salî meEz îngiliz im/ Îskoçyayî meBes/hê, HînBafl/Nebafl, XirabNû/KevnVekirî/GirtîPiçûk/MezinGerm/SarVala/TijeErzan/BuhaZû/HêdîNêz/DûrRihet/Nerihet, AcizPaqij/ Pak/Pîs, Bi qirêjBi flemate, bi qerebalix/Sakîn, bêdeng /Aram… nîn eÛYanBegXanimXanimHostaHecîBekçî/Notirvan, dergevan

Hewa çawa ye?Bi tav/ Bi ewr/ Bi baran/ Bi berf/Bi mij/ Bi ba…eke dinUcreta (heqê) serwîsê Buhaflikestî/ Bi tenzîlat/DaxistîBaca hêjahiya lêzêdebûyîBer/ Merfl/ Gelt

Xêrî ser bo / Tim wefl bêXêr bivînêCanî to wefl bo

fiîma seyinê/Ti seyînê?Ez bafl a- spas kena/Zaf spas kenaEz keyfwefl bîyaName to çî yo?fiima bi îngilîzî zanê/Ti bi îngilîzî zanê?fiina kamca ra yê?/Ti kamca ra yê?Ti çend serre yê?Ez.......serrî ya.Ez Îngilîz a-Elman a- Fransa ra ya.Bes / HînîBafl /NebaflNewe /KanAkerde /GiroteKij/ Pîl/GirdGermin/SerdinVeng/PirrErcan/VayLeze/ Hêd,Nizdî/DûrîRihet/NêrihetBaqij /Pak /Pîs /LîflinBi flemete / Bi qelebalix /BêhesNiyoÛYanBegXanimeXanimeWestaHecîNotirvan / Dergewan

Hewa seyino?Tîjiya/ Hewro/Varano/ Vewra/Mijo/Hewa esto..êko bînHekê serwîsîErcankerde Baco zedekerdeBere


HotelPension (guesthouse)TentCampingHoliday villageRoomSingle/double/tripleWith an extra bed

With a double bed

With a shower

Otel Pansiyon Çad›r KampTatil Köyü Oda Tek/Çift/üç kiflilik ‹lave yatakl›

Frans›z yatakl›

Dufllu

OtêlPansiyonKon/ ÇadirKampîng, ciyê kampêGundê betlanêOde, wetaq/MenzelJi bo kesekî/Dukesan/Sê kesanNivînîlawekirî/LêzêdekirîBi nivînênFransî/CotenivînBi dûfl

OtelPansiyoneXeyme çadireKampîngDewa betlaneyîWetaqQabê yew di kesanNivînozêde/SerzêdekerdeNivîno fransî

Bi ava germine

ACCOMMODATION / KONAKLAMA

Accommodation (1)


TROUBLE / TEHL‹KE

Help!Stop!Go away! Stay away from me!You make meuncomfortable!I need a doctor!

Where is thehospital?Can you call thepolice?

‹mdat! Dur! Git lütfen! Bana yaklaflma!

Beni rahats›zediyorsunuz! Doktora ihtiyac›m var! Hastane nerde?

Polisi ararm›s›n›z?

Hawar!Bisekine!Ji kerema xwe re here!Nêzî min nebe!

Hûn min aciz (nerihet) dikin!Hewcedariya min bi dixtor heye! Nexweflxane li ku ye?

Hûn dikarin lipolîsan bigerin?

Hewar!Vinde!Keremê xo ra flo!Nizdiyê min mebe!

fiima min acis kenî!

Hewcedariyê min bidoxtorî esta! Nêweflxane kam ca do?fiima flikenî ropolêsan bigeyrî?

Hot waterCold waterAir-conditionedKeySuitcaseTowelToiletToilet paperShampooSoapBedSheetPillowBlanketQuiltWindowMosquitoIs there a hotel nearby?Do you have a double room forone/two nights?Can I see it?I have a bookingIs breakfast included?Can we camp here?

S›cak su So¤uk su Klimal› Anahtar Bavul Havlu Tuvalet Tuvalet ka¤›d› fiampuan Sabun Yatak Çarflaf Yast›k Battaniye Yorgan Pencere Sivrisinek Yak›nlarda bir otelvar m›? Bir/Iki gecelik çiftkiflilik bir odan›z var m›? Bakabilir miyim? Reservasyonum var Kahvalt› dahil mi?

Burada kamp yapabilir miyiz?

Ava germAva sarBi klîmaNifteBahol/ BawulXawlîTuwalet/ AvdestxaneKaxitê tuwaletêfiampuanSabûnNivînÇarflefBalîf, balgî, balgihBetanî/ BetaniyeLihêfPencere / PaceKermêfl, kelmêfl Otêlek li van derodoran heye?Ji bo flevekê/Du flevan ji bo du kesanodeyeke we heye? Ez dikarim mêze bikim?Rezervasyona min heyeTafltê jî di nav de ye?

Em dikarin li vir kamp bikin?

Awa germineAwa serdineBi klîmaMefta Bahole XewlîDaflraKaxizê daflrafiampûanSabûnNivîn ÇarflebeBaliflna/NazbalîveBetaneLiheyfPenceraMirêfleOtêlike nênizdiyan de esta? Qabê di kesanfiêweke di flêwanodeyeka flima esta? Ez flikena bewnî?Cayê min estoTaflte jî tewer de esta?Ma flikenî ewtakampe bikim

ACCOMMODATION / KONAKLAMA


RoadStreetLaneBusMinibus (dolmufl)PlaneTrainCarFerryHarbour/jettyBicycle

Yol Cadde Sokak (soka¤›) Otobüs Dolmufl Uçak Tren Araba Vapur, feribot ‹skele Bisiklet

RêCehde, papûrKuçe(ya), kolan(a)OtobosDolmîflTeyare, balafirTrênErebeVapûrÎskele, targePisqilêt, bisiklêt

Raye Kuçe /sûkeKuçeOtobêzDolmîflTeyare Tîrane MaflînWapûreÎskelaPisqilête

TRANSPORT / ULAfiIM

Banned Kurdish Letters(2)



TaxiMotorcycleOn footBus stationBus stopTrain stationArrival/departureSeatSingle/doublePriceTicket Return

Ticket window orboothAdult/Child/StudentA ticket to… pleaseCan I make a reservation?

What time does itleave?How long does ittake?How far is it?

When does the nextbus/Train/Ferryleave?Where does it leavefrom?What platform doesit leave from?Which bus goesto…?How long does ittake?Which road leadsto…? Map

Taksi Motorsiklet Yaya Otogar Otobüs dura¤› Tren istasyonu Var›fl/kalk›fl Koltuk Tek/çift Ücret Bilet Gidifl-dönüfl

Gifle

Tam/Çocuk/Ö¤renci …a bir bilet Rezervasyonyapt›rabilir miyim? Kaçta kalkar?

Ne kadar sürer?

Ne kadaruzakl›kta? Bir sonraki oto-büs/Tren/Vapur ne zaman? Nereden kalk›yor? Hangi perondankalk›yor? Hangi otobüs…a gider? Ne kadar sürer?

Hangi yol …’aç›kar? Harita

TexsîMotorsiklêtPeyaOtogarRawestgeha otobosanÎstesyona trênêGihîfltin/rabûnQoltixTek, fer/cotUcret /BuhaBilêtÇûn/Veger, hatin

Gîfle

Tam/Zarok/XwendekarBilêtek ji … reEz dikarim rezervasyonê bidim kirin?Wê di çendan derabe?Wê çi qas bajo?

Çiqas dûr e?

Otobosa/Trêna/Vapûra pifltî vê wêkîngê rabe?Ji ku radibe?

Ji kîjan peronêradibe?Kîjan otobos wê biçe…ê?Wê çiqas bajo?

Kîjan rê diçe …ê?

Nexfle, xerîte

TexsîMotorsîkletPeya OtogarCayê vinderdiflîÎstesyona tîraneWerîfltiflQoltixFereHeqBilêt fiiyayifl/Ageyrayifl/AmyayiflGîfle

Tam/Doman/Wende/ WendekarBilêtêke........rêEz flikana xo rê cayêk kifflbikerî ?

Do çendan de werzo?Do çendêk biramo?

Çendêk (zaf) dûrî yo?Otêbisa/Tîrane/Wapûra nay dimera do kingê flêro?Kam ca ra werzena? Kam co perone rawerzena? Kam co otopêze doflêro......?Do çendêk biramo?

Kam co raye flina.......?Nexfle

TRANSPORT / ULAfiIM


Left/rightTurn left/right

Here/thereNorth/southEast/westStraightTowardUphill/Downhill

SteepWide/NarrowFrom…Until…Behind/In front ofBetweenAt the opposite of…At the end ofStopCautionCar parkDon’t tread on thegrassMilitary zoneOne-way streetNo through roadEntry forbiddenEntrance/ExitPull/PushNo smokingPlease take off yourshoes

Drinking waterOut of orderFor rent

Sol/sa¤ Sola/sa¤a dön

Burada/orada Kuzey/güney Do¤u/bat› Düz Do¤ru Yokufl yukar›/Yokufl afla¤› Dik Genifl/Dar …dan …a kadar Arkas›nda/Önünde Aras›nda Karfl›s›nda …sonunda Dur Dikkat Park yeri Çimenlere basmay›n›z Askeri bölge Tek yön Ç›kmaz sokak Yasak bölge Girifl/Ç›k›fl Çekiniz/Itiniz Sigara içilmez Lütfenayakkab›lar›n›z›ç›kart›n›z ‹çme suyu Ar›zal› Kiral›k

Çep/rastBizîvire aliyêçepê/rastêLi vir/li wirBakur/baflûr, qîbleRojhilat/rojavaRastRastBerbijêr/Berbijor

Tîk/Çik, Fire/Tengji…Heta …êLi pafl/Li pêflLi navLi hember/Li pêflberDi dawiya … deBisekine, rawesteDîqatCiyê parkêPê li çîmenan nekin

HerêmaleflkerîYekalîAlûle/NabosHerêma qedexeTêketan/JêderanBikiflînin/TamdinCixare nayê kiflandinJi kerema xwe re solên xwe derxin

Ava vexwarinêBi arizeBi kirê

Çep/rafltBifetelye peroÇep/rafltTiya/ewtaBakûr/baflûr/qibleRojhelat/rojawanRaflteRaflteQayme/Verbicor

DîkHîra/TengRa.....HetaPiyenî de/Viyerenî deMiyan deHember /QarflîPeynî deVindeDîqatCayê parqeLinge menî sero

Cayo eskerîYewperXindoqeHerema qedexîCikewtiflTemdayiflCuxara nîna antiflîKeremê xo ra solanê xovecê Awa werîXerepnayeBi kirê

DIRECTIONS/SIGNAGE / YÖNLER

Directions (3)


BazaarBeachBridgeCaranvanseraiCaveCemeteryChurchCitadel, fortressCityCliffDervish gatheringplaceExchange facilityFieldFootpathForestFortress/citadelGardenGentlemenGrave, tombGrocery shopHillHot springs or thermal bathsHouseHospitalInformation deskIslamic school,madrasahIslandLakeMain squareMansionMarket, bazaarMilitary baseMonasteryMosqueMosque, small andwith no minbarMotorwayMountainMountain pass

Çarfl›(s›) Kumsal Köprü Han(›) Ma¤ara Mezarl›k Kilise(si) Kale(si) fiehir Uçurum Tekke(si)

Kambiyo Tarla Patika Orman Hisar(›)/Kale(si) Bahçe(si) Bayanlar Mezar(›) Bakkal Tepe Kapl›ca

Ev(i)Hastane Dan›flma Medrese

Ada(s›) Göl Meydan Konak Pazar Asker(i) Manast›r Cami Mescit

Otoyol(u) Da¤ Geçit

Çarflî(ya) SûkaPlaj, sêlxanPirXan(a)fiikeftGoristanDêr(a)Keleha(ya)Bajar, flarHendef, dûlêr, kendalTekya(ya)

KambiyoZevîfiiverêDaristanHesar/Kela(ya)Baxçe(yê)XanimnoGor(a)BeqalGirGermav/germik

Mal(a)NexweflxanefiêwirdarîMedrese

Girav(a)GolMeydan/Rast/QadQonaxBazarEsker(î) LeflkerîKeflîflxane, xelwetxaneMizgeftMescîd/izgeft

fiahrê(ya), otoban(a)ÇiyaBihur

SûkSêlxanPirdXanfiikeftMezel/goristanKilîse(yê)KelaSaristanKendalTekya

KambiyoHêgafiiverayeDehleKelaBexçeXanimînoGor(ê)EtarokGirGermik

Kêye / BanNêweflxanefiêwirdarMedresa

ReflawîGolMeydan/RaflteQonaxBazaarEsker îKeflîflxaneCamîCamî

PapûreKo /gazeNeqev

DESTINATIONS / PLACES / MEKANLAR


MunicipalityMuseumNightclubOff-licence/LiquorstorePalacePharmacyPlaza or publicsquarePlainPolice HQPolice stationProvinceProvincial gover-ment buildingProvincial gover-ment buildingQuarterRecreation or picnic areaRiverRoads/highwaysRockRuinsShoreSpringStatueStoreySummer community,usually in the highmountainsTempleTurkish AirlinesTurkish bathUnpotableValleyVillaVillageWaterside mansionWC/Toilet

Belediye Müze Gazino Tekel bayii

Saray(›) Eczane Meydan(›)

Ova Emniyet müdürlü¤ü Karakol ‹l(i) Hükümet kona¤›

Valilik (valili¤i)

Mahalle(si) Dinlenme yeri

Nehir, ›rmak Karayollar› Kaya Harabe, y›k›nt› K›y› Kaynak Heykel Kat Yayla

Mabet Türk Hava Yollar› (THY)

Hamam(›) ‹çilmez Vadi Köflk(ü) Köy(ü) Yal› Wc/Tuvalet/Umumi

fiaredarî, belediyeMuze, entîkexaneGazînoBayiyê tekelê

Seray(a)DermanxaneMeydan(a)/ Qad(a)

DefltMidûriyeta EwlehiyêQereqolBajar(ê)Qonaxa hikûmatê

Walî (Walîtiya)

Mehele(ya), tax(a)Ciyê bêhnvedanê

Çem, robarRiyên bejahiyanZinarXirabe, Wêran, kavilQerax, peravKanîPeyker, heykelQat Zozan

ÎbadetxaneRiyên Hewayî yên TirkHemam(a)Nayê vexwarinGelîKoflk(a)Gund(ê)YalîWc/Avdestxane/umûmî

fiaradarîMuzeGazînoBayiyê tekelî

KesreEczaxaneMeydan

DeflteMuduriyeta emQereqolfiaristanQonaxa hukumatî Walî

MehlaCayû boye

ÇemRayê bejahîZinarXirabeyîQeraxÊneHêkelQateKoy

ÎbadetxaneRayî hewayîHememNînawerîGeleKoflkeDew(a)Bano baxçeyinDaflra

DESTINATIONS / PLACES / MEKANLAR


Ablutions fountainof a mosqueDates according tothe Christian calen-dar, abbreviated“M.” on inscriptionsand monumentsDomeGate or doorIwanMihrab (niche in amosque indicatingthe direction ofMecca)MinaretPavilionPublic drinkingfountainTombs covered withdomesTower

fiad›rvan

Miladî

Kubbe Kap›(s›) Eyvan Mihrab

Minare(si) Köflk(ü) Sebil

Kümbet

Kule(si)

fiadirvan

Zayînî, mîladî

Qub, qubeDerî(yê)EywanMihrab

Minare(ya)Koflk(a)/ Qesr(a)Sebîl

Kumbed/ Gumbed

Qule(ya)

Çirike

Zayinî

QubaBer/eEywaneMihrabe

MinaraKoflkeSebîl

Quba

Qûla

ARCHITECTURE / M‹MAR‹

Architecture (4)


AflxaneMeyxane

Cayêkê to pê nêdijoDestê to ternîbê

NoflGarsonfiima awnenî

HesabBacTewrê bacîya

Servîs jî têdir

BexflîflAreyîNanê nîmrojîfiamîBigoflt/Bêgoflt

Wero hadre

Salona malbatî

QedeheKardîMelêvîKewçîkePeçete ( desmale )Tebeqe ( sihane)AwineyWexukBi wexurkBê wexurkGofltino?

Wero bêgoflt esto?

FOOD-General terms / YEMEK-Genel terimler

RestaurantTaverns servingalcohol and foodBon Appetite“Health to yourhands” traditionalresponse to bonappetiteCheersWaiterPolite way of gettingwaiter’s attentionBillTaxTax included

Service included

TipBreakfastLunchDinnerWith meat/without meatReady-prepareddishes usually keptwarm in steam traysA part of a restau-rant served for fami-lies and singlewomenGlassKnifeForkSpoonNapkinPlateDrinksAlcoholic drinksAlcohol servedNo alcohol servedDoes it containmeat?Do you have anymeatless food?

Lokanta Meyhane

Afiyet olsun Elinize sa¤l›k

fierefe Garson Bakar m›s›n›z!

Hesap Vergi Vergi dahil

Servis dahil

Bahflifl Kahvalt› Ö¤le yeme¤i Akflam yeme¤i Etli/etsiz

Haz›r yemek

Aile salonu

Bardak B›çak Çatal Kafl›k Peçete Tabak ‹çecekler ‹çkiler ‹çkili ‹çkisiz Etli mi?

Etsiz yemek var m›?

LoqanteMeyxane

Noflîcan be, efiyet beDestê we ter be

NoflGarson/ BerkarJi kerema xwe re dinihêrîHesabBacTevî vêrgiyê, tevî bacê/ Vêrgî di nav deTevî serwîsê / Serwîs jî di nav deBexflîflTafltê/XurînîFiravîn/ NavrojfiîvBi goflt/Bê goflt

Xwarina hazir

Salona malbatê

QedehKêrÇetelKevçîDesmalTeyfik/ TemsîkVexwarinVexurk/ AlkolBialkolBêalkolBi goflt e?

Xwarina bê goflt heye?



Manqel/ AgirdankXaflandîDîzik/DîzSarBi zeyt/Bi rûnê zeytêTaweSorkirîIzxareGermGerm/SarBi salçe/Bi mergeMehitNepijyayî yeTûjPijandina bi hilm ûgulmTêrpijyayîBi penêr, bi qaflarBi hêkBi gofltBi gofltê cengekirî/Bi qiymeBi sicûqBi mast

ManqaleXeflelnayeTirflîka deyzaSerdinZeytinTawa deSûrkerdeSeradirGerminGermin / SerdinBi salçeParzonNêpeyflayeTûjHelme

BaflpewteBi penîrHakinGofltinBî qime

Bi sicûxMastin

FOOD-Culinary terms / YEMEK-Mutfak terimleri

BarbecueBoiledCasseroleColdCooked with olive oilDeep-friedFriedGrilledHotHot/coldIn red saucePaste or puréeRawSpicySteamed

Well doneWith cheeseWith eggWith meatWith minced meat

With sausageWith yoghurt

Mangal Hafllama Güveç So¤uk Zeytinya¤l› Tava, sahanda K›zartma Izgara S›cak S›cak/So¤uk Soslu, salçal› Ezme Piflmemifl Ac› Bu¤ulama

‹yi piflmifl Peynirli, kaflarl› Yumurtal› Etli K›ymal›

Sucuklu Yo¤urtlu

Lahmacun (5)


Black pepperBreadButterCheeseCornCracked wheatDip, mashed orcrushedEggFruitHoneyIceJamMilkNutsOlivesPastaPickles RiceRyeSaltSesame coveredbread ringsSugarSweetsVinegarWater

Karabiber Ekmek Tereya¤› Peynir M›s›r Bulgur Ezme

Yumurta Meyve Bal Buz Reçel Süt Çerez Zeytin Makarna Turflu Pilav, pirinç Çavdar Tuz Simit/Gevrek

fieker Tatl› Sirke Su

Îsota reflNanRûnê nivîflkPenêrGilgil/LazûtBilxur/SavarMehit

HêkFêkîHingivCemed/ QerîsekRîçalfiîrÇerezZeytûnMiqarne TirflîGêrmî/BirincÇavdar fiilêl/Tarîgan/XwêSimit/Gevrek Kulorîk/simît/QurofekfiekirfiîranîSirke/SihikAv

Îsot / BacikNanRûnobêsolPenîrGilgilBilxurParzone

HakFêkîHengemînCemedRîçalfiitÇerezZeytûnMiqarneTirflîBirinjfiilêlSoleLole

fiekerfiîrinayîTirflîAwe

FOOD-General ingredients/items / YEMEK-Genel mutfak malzemeleri

FOOD-Meat / YEMEK-Etler

ChickenGoatHeartKidneyLambLiverRissoles bakedwith vegetablesSheepSpare ribsTesticleVeal

TavukKeçi Yürek Böbrek Kuzu eti Ci¤er Saray kebap

Koyun Kaburga Koç yumurtas›/BillurDana/S›¤›r eti

MirîflkBizinDilGurçikGofltê berxanCeger, kezebKebaba serayê

PezParsû/ ParxanHêlikên berananGofltê golikan/Dewaran

KergeBizeDilGurçikeGoflberxkezebeKebabê seraye

MêflineParsîHêlikî beranîGofltê dewarî


Lamb brain saladPepper stuffed withrice and meatSteakBulgar rice some-times cooked with ameat stockDöner kebab Meat stewMeat stew with vegetablesMeat stew, some-times with vegetablesMince rissoles withcheeseDöner in yoghurt and sauceMixed grill

Aubergines stuffedwith mince meatSandwich of grilledsheep’s intestineswith cuminMeatballsChop, cutletSpiced meat andvegetables sizzled in a wokMutton stewSide of tender, bone-less lamb baked inoutdoor oven Minced lamb grilledon a skewer

Seleteyê mêjûDolmeyê bajikan

Bonfîle / Biftekfiorba

Kebabo donerWero gofltinTirflika gofltine

Xeflelnaye

Kufteyî înegolî

Kebabî îskenderî

Goflto têtewerde

Balcanê pirkerdeyî

Kokoreç

KufteyîGofltê sirteGofltesûr

KawirmeKerge

Kebabê Riha

FOOD-Some meat-based dishes / YEMEK-Etle yap›lan yemekler

Seleteya mêjîDolmê îsotan/ Heflîna îsotanBîftek/BonfîleGirar

Doner kebabXwarina gofltTirflika bi goflt

Xaflandî

Kuftika Înegolê

Kebaba Îskender

Gofltê birafltî yê tevlihevBalîcanê navqelafltî/ BelezîzKokoreç

Kufte/ KutilkPîrzole, gofltê sirtêQelîsêl, gofltê sêlê

Tas kebabMirîflk/Varik

Kebaba Ruhayê

Beyin salatas›Biber dolmas›

Biftek/BonfileBulgur pilav›

Döner kebab›Et yeme¤i Etli türlü

Hafllama

‹negöl köftesi

‹skender kebab›

Kar›fl›k ›zgara

Karn›yar›k

Kokoreç

Köfte Pirzola Saç kavurma

Tas kebab› Tavuk/Piliç

Urfa kebab›


Aegan lobsterAnchovyAnnular breamBaby lüferBassBlack breamCrabFishGilt-head breamGrey mulletHorse mackerelMusselOctopusPrawnsRed mulletSardineSquidSwordfishTroutTurbot

‹stakoz Hamsi ‹sparoz Çinekop Levrek Sar›göz Yengeç Bal›k Çipura Kefal ‹stavrit Midye Ahtapot Karides Barbunya, tekir Sardalya Kalamar K›l›ç Alabal›k Kalkan

Kevjala deryayêHemsîÎsparozÇînekopSûfÇavzerKevjal, kêfflingMasîÇipuraMasîpank, masîperkÎstavrîtMidyeAxtepot, hefltpêCanberî, rubyanBarbûnyaMasîwurkKalamarMasîflûr, serflûrmasîDeqsorMasîkartûxk

KerkincHemsîÎsparozÇînekopSûfÇimzerKevjaleMaseCipûraMasîpankîstavrîtMidyaAxtepoteCanberBarbûnyaMasîwurkKalamarMasîflûrfiilingMertalmase

FOOD-Seafood / YEMEK-Deniz ürünleri

ArtichokeAubergineBeansBroad beansCabbageCarrotCourgetteCucumberGarlicGreen beanHot peppersLettuceMushroomOkraOnionPeasPeppersPotatoesRed beansRocketSpinachSpring onionTomato

Enginar Patl›can Fasulye Bakla Lahana Havuç Kabak Salatal›k Sar›msak Taze fasulye Ac› biber Marul Mantar Bamya So¤an Bezelye Biber Patates Barbunya Roka Ispanak Taze so¤an Domates

ArtîflokBalîcan/ Bacana reflFasûlîBaqil, peqle, keflolKelemGêzer, gizêrKundir, gindorXiyarSîrFasûliyê flînÎsota tûjXasKuvarik, kufkarik, karokBamye, bamîPîvazfioqil, polikÎsot KartolBarbûnyaKûzele, rokaÎspenaxPîvaza tezeFiringî

ArtîflokBalîcaneFasûlyaBaqileKelemGizêrKuyeXiyarSîrFasûliya tezîÎsoto tûjXasKuvarikBamîPiyazPolikÎsotKartolBarbûnyaRokaIspenexPiyazo tezeFiringe

FOOD-Vegetables / YEMEK-Sebzeler


Hot chilli mash withgarlic, parsley, let-tuce, onionRed kidney beansBlack-eyed peas inthe podYoghurt dip withgrated cucumberand herbsChopped tomato,cucumber, parsley,pepper and saladBulgur, nuts, veg-etables and meat ina spicy crustWhite beans in atomato sauceFried eggs withtomatoes, onions,pepper and garlicAubergine pate“Russian” saladAubergine, tomatoand other vegetablefry-upVegetable stewStuffed vine leaves

Vegetables cooked intheir own juices,spices, and olive oil

FOOD-Some vegetable- or egg-based dishes / YEMEK-Sebzeli ve yumurtal› yemekler

Antep ac›l› ezmesi

Barbunya Börülce

Cac›k

Çoban salatas›

‹çli köfte

Kuru fasulye

Menemen

Patl›can ezmesi Rus salatas› fiakfluka

Sebzeli türlü Yaprak dolmas›yalanc› dolmaZeytinya¤l›

Mehita tûj a Entabê

Barbûnya Mafl

Cacix

Seleta firingiya

Kutilkê binavik/ kuftênavtijî /Kutlik

Tirflika fasûlyê hiflk/Fasûliyên hiflkMexleme, meleme,mêkle

Helîse, sogilmeSeleta Ûrisan/ Rûsanfiaqflûqa

TirflikPel/Pelên pêçandî

Bi zeyt

Parzoneyê entabî

BarbûnyaMafl

Jajik

Selete

Kutlika pirkerdî

Fasulyaya wiflke

Mexleme

SogilmeSeletê Ûrisîfiaqfluka

TirflîkeAprax / PelêapraxanZeytin

Fresh vegetables (6)


Börek, pastry withvarious fillings“inflated” hollowturnowersA spicy mix of rawlamb-mince and bul-gar wrapped in awheat pancakePitta-like bread usedto wrap meat fortakeawayTurkish pancakesfilled with cheese,potato or minceFrequently called“turkish pizza” alayer of spiced lambsmeared on the thindough baseMeat-filled crepestopped with yoghurtRavioli-like meatfilled parcels in garlicyoghurt sauceLong piece of doughkneaded flat andtopped with cheese,mince, chunks ofmeat or chickenRound flat breadBörek filled withcheese and made into“cigarettes”Runny cheesebetween layers of filoMant›-like dish servedwith cheese and mintToasted sandwichwith salami or cheese

FOOD-Breads and pastry-based foods / YEMEK-Hamur ifli

Börek

Çi¤ börek

Çi¤ köfte

Dürüm

Gözleme

Lahmacun

Laz böre¤i

Mant›

Pide

Sade pide Sigara böre¤i

Su börek

Tatar böre¤i

Tost

Borek/ Bîflî/ Totik

Boreka xav

Ecîn/ Çîkufte

Etor

Patîle

Lehmecûn

Boreka Lazan

Mantî

Pîde

Pîdeya sadeBoreka baçik

Boreka avê

Boreka Teteran

Tost

Boreke

Boreka nêpewtî

Kuteya kale

Loq

Patîle/Nano tantûreyin

Lehmecûn

Çorekî lazan

Mantî

Qatme

Qatmeya sadeÇoreka paçik

Boreka awine

Boreka tetareyî

Tost


Fish soupTomato soupTomato and lentilsoup flavoured withmint, may containmeat stockTribe soup

Lentil soupSoup made fromvarious boney partsof a sheepVegetable soupNoodle soupYoghurt and veg-etable soupChicken soupYoghurt and barleysoup

Bal›k çorbas› Domates çorbas› Ezo gelin çorbas›

‹flkembe çorbas›

Mercimek çorbas› Paça çorbas›

Sebze çorbas› fiehriye çorbas› Tarhana çorbas›

Tavuk çorbas› Yayla çorbas›

fiorbeya masiyanfiorbeya Firingiyanfiorbeya ezo gelin

Hûr û rovî

fiorbeya nîskanfiorbeya pepikan, paçe (Serûpê)

Tutû, florbeya bi zebzefiorbeya flehîran fiorbeya terhanayê/fiorbeya bidewfiorbeya mirîflkanMehîr

fiorbeya maseyinefiorbeya firngeyineMiflewflî

Serepayvêreyfiorbaya nîskanSerepay

Tirflikefiorbaya flehîranGermî / fiorbikadoyineAwa kergefiorbaya doyine

FOOD-Soups / YEMEK-Çorbalar

White cheese simil-iar to fetaMild, crumbly cheeseused in börek andgözlemeYellow cheese,varies from mild tomatureStrong white cheesemade from goat’smilkHerb-flavouredcheese found espe-cially in easternAnatoliaTasty, white cheesecured in aluminiumcontainers

Beyaz peynir

Çökelek

Kaflar peyniri

Keçi peyniri

Otlu peynir

Teneke peyniri

Penêrê spî

Toraq

Qaflar, penêrê qaflar

Penêrê bizinan

Penêrê bi sîrik

Penêrê tenekeyan

Penîro sipê

Tantûr

Penîro helnaye

Penîrê bizan

Penîro sîrin

Penîrê tenekeyî

FOOD-Cheese / YEMEK-Peynir


BasilBlack pepperMintMustardOreganoParsleyThyme

Fesle¤enKarabiberNaneHardalKekik MaydanozKekik

RihanFilfil/Îsota refl Pûjan/Anix/NaneXerdelCehter/CatirîBaxdenosCehter/ Catirî

Rîhanîsoto siyaPûneXerdelChentereMexdanosCehtere

FOOD-Herbs and spices / YEMEK-Baharatlar

A hot sweet drinkmade with extract of awild orchidA thick fermented millet drinkCamomile teaCoffeeColaDrinking yoghurtFermented millet drinkFruit juiceGrape juiceIceInstant coffeeMilkMineral waterOrange juiceSage teaSpring waterTeaTurkish coffeeTurnip juiceWater

Salep

Boza

Papatya çay› Kahve Kola Ayran Boza Meyva suyu fi›ra Buz Neskafe Süt Maden suyu Portakal suyu Ada çay› Memba suyu Çay Türk kahvesi fialgam Su

Salep

Boza/ Ahsûme

Çaya beybûnêQehwe QolaDewBozaAva fêkiyanfiîreCemed, qerîsekNesqafefiîrAva madenîAva porteqalanGiyagewrikAva kaniyanÇay Qehwefiêlim, binerdkAv

Selep

Boza

Çaya beybûnîQehwaQolaDoBozaAwa fêkiyanfiîreCemedNesqafefiitfiorikeAwê pûrteqalanVaflgewrikAwa ênîÇayeQehwaya TirkanSêlimAwe

FOOD-(Non-alcoholic) drinks / YEMEK-Alkölsüz içecekler

Spices (7)


BeerGinDraught beerCocktailCognacLiqueurStrong aniseed spiritChampagneWineWhiskeyVodka

Bira Cin F›ç› bira Kokteyl Konyak Likör Rak› fiampanya fiarap Viski Votka

BîraCînFiçî bîraKokteylKonyakLîkorAraq, reqîfiampanyafierabWiskîVotka

BîraCînBîraya elbikeKokteylKonyakLîkorAreqefiampanyafierabWiskîWotka

FOOD-Alcoholic drinks / YEMEK-Alkollü içkiler

AlmondBar nibbles, usually nutsChestnutHazelnutPeanutsPistachioPumpkin seedsRaisinsRoasted chickpeasSheet-pressed dried fruitSunflower seedsWalnut

Badem Çerez Kestane F›nd›k Yer f›st›¤› Antep f›st›¤› Kabak çekirde¤i Kuru üzüm Leblebî Pestil Çekirdek Ceviz

BehîvÇerezfiahbelot/ KestaneBindeq/ FindiqZirfistiq/ PisteFistiqên EntabêDendikên kundiranMewijLeblebî/ XudamBastêq/ SewîkDendikGûz

VameÇerezfielbûteFindiqFistiqa zûrayîFistiqa EntabîDendikê kuyeMewijîLeblebîBastêqDendikGoze

FOOD-Nuts, seeds and dried fruit / YEMEK-Kuruyemifl

Wine basket (8)

Dried fruit (9)


AppleApricotBananaBlackberryFigsGrapefruitGrapesGreen almondLemonMelonMulberryOrangePeachPearPersimmon or datePlumPomegranateQuinceRaspberrySour cherryStrawberrySweet cherryTangerineWatermelon

ElmaKay›s› Muz Bö¤ürtlen ‹ncir Greyfurt Üzüm Ça¤la Limon Kavun Dut Portakal fieftaliArmut Hurma Erik Nar Ayva Ahududu Viflne Çilek Kiraz Mandalîn Karpuz

SêvQeysî (Miflmifl, arûng)Mûz TûreflkHêjîrZîbal/ Sindî/ GreyfûrtTirîBehîvterLîmonQawinTûPorteqalXoxHermîXurmeAlûce/ HilûHinarBiyokTûflêmîWiflne/AlbalûTûfrengîGelyaz/ QeresîLalengî/ MandalînaZebefl

SayeQeysiyeMûzDirikeEncîleSindîHengureVameLeymûneQawineTuyePûrteqaleXewxeMiroyeXurmaArûngeHinarBeyeTuyê siyayîWiflneTufrengîWiflneLalengiyeZebefle

FOOD-Fruits / YEMEK-Meyve

Fruits (10)


Sweet stew of pulsesnuts and fruits flavouredwith cinamonQuince puddingPastry made with layersof nuts and syrupIce-cream

Semolina-based puddingwith pine nutsSemolina and nut halvaShredded wheat in syrupClotted creamCreamy pudding called“the bottom of the pan”on account of its cara-malized toppingMilk based puddingsprinkled with nuts, ofteneaten with ice-creamStewed fruitAlmond-nut biscuit dust-ed with powered sugarShredded wheat withmild cheese and syrupFried dough balls withsyrupTurkish delightRice flour and rosewaterpuddingAny kind of pastry orcakeSoft round biscuitsRice pudding, typicallybaked in the ovenHalva of sesame, plusnuts or cocoaSaffron-laced jelly

Aflure

Ayva tatl›s› Baklava

Dondurma

Helva

‹rmik helvas› Kaday›f Kaymak Kazandibi

Keflkül

Komposto Kurabiye

Künefe

Lokma

Lokum Muhallebi

Pasta

Po¤aça Sütlaç

Tahin helvas›

Zerde

Aflûre

fiîraniya biyokanPeqlewe

Bestenî, qerîmok,DondirmeHelaw

Helawa êrdQedeyifKaymak, flîraniya toKazandîbî

Keflkûl

XoflavQurabiye

Kunefe

Loqme

LoqimTilolik

Paste

Boxaçafiorbeflîr/ Gulol

Helawa tehînê

Zerde

Aflûre

fiîraniya beyePeqlewa

Qerîmok

Helawe

Helawa êrdeQedeyifYûKazandîbî

Keflkûle

XoflabeQurabiya

Kunefe

Loqme

LoqimMehlebî

Paste

Boxçikefiorbika flitî

Helawe

Zerde

FOOD-Sweets / YEMEK-Tatl›lar

Local sweets (11)

670

AAbbddii DDeemmiirrttaaflfl:: fianl›urfa:4, 8, 11, 13, 23, 25, 27, 67, 68, 71, 72, 75, 76, 77.Intro:23. AAbbdduurrrraahhmmaannNNaass:: fi›rnak: 45, 47, 50. AAddeemm SSöönnmmeezz:: Ad›yaman: 29.A¤r›:35, 40.Batman:47, 56. Bingöl:1,22.Bitlis: 8, 16, 27, 48.Diyarbak›r: 84, 85, 170. Mufl:1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18,22, 23, 26, 6.Siirt:1. fianl›urfa:3, 43.Van: 45, 47.Intro: 9, 14, 36, 35, 38.AA¤¤rr›› CCuullttuurree CCeennttrree:: A¤r›:19, 20, 30, 33. AAlliiflflaann ÜÜnnllüü:: Tunceli:13. AAuurreelliioo MMoonnttaannaarr:: Diyarbak›r:203,204, 206, 209, 210, 211, 212.Intro:30. AAyydd››nn BBaattuurr:: Bingöl: 18, 23, 28, BBaattmmaann MMuunniicciippaalliittyy::Batman:3, 7, 9, 25, 66, 67. BBeessnnii MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Ad›yaman:75, 76, 77. BBiissmmiill MMuunniicciippaalliittyy::Diyarbak›r:223, 225, , 226, 227, 228, 229.Dr. BBiirrggüüll AAçç››kkyy››lldd››zz:: Batman:19, 21, 22. CCeemmaall DDooflfl:: Tunceli:7.CCeeyyllaannpp››nnaarr MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: fianl›urfa:79, 80, CCiizzrree MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Hakkari: 63.fi›rnak:3, 5, 13, 16, 17, 19, 26, 27, 28, 30, 35, 37, 38, 39, 41, 43, 44, 60, 66, 68, 2, 42, 11,29.Intro:6. DDeerriikk MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Mardin: 74. DD‹‹HHAA:: A¤r›: 22.Diyarbak›r:79.Hakkari:13.Siirt: 32.fianl›urfa:14, 15, 16, 17, 20, 35, 37, 59. fi›rnak:54.Van:9, 20, 27, 37, 62. Intro: 22. Food&Drinks: 26. DDiicckkOOsssseemmaann:: Ad›yaman: 41. Batman: 46. Bingöl: 3, 5, 6. Bitlis: 4, 14, 21. Siirt: 6. fianl›urfa:31. Elaz›¤:9,12, 14, 15, 18, 37, 46, 47. Food&Drinks:6. DDiiyyaarrbbaakk››rr MMeettrrooppoolliittaann MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Bingöl:12.Diyarbak›r:2, 3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12, 17, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26, 35, 41, 50, 57, 58, 59, 61, 62, 67, 68, 69,75, 77, 78, 81, 82, 83, 87, 90, 94, 96, 102, 104, 120, 128, 132, 137, 106, 111. Elaz›¤: 32. Intro: 3,7, 8, Transport:2, 3 DDoo¤¤uubbaayyaazz››tt MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: A¤r›: 5, 10, 11, 12, 36, 38, 48, 6.Intro:39. Dictionary:1.EErrddoo¤¤aann ÇÇaakkaarr:: Tunceli:32. EElleeflflkkiirrtt MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: A¤r›:15. EEmmiinn BBaall:: Hakkari: 30, 31, 34, 41, 67, 68,69. fi›rnak:59, 62, 63, 64, 67, 70, 71. EEmmiinn SSaarr››:: Elaz›¤: 40, Van72, 74. EEttiikk AAjjaannss AArrcchhiivvee:: Bingöl2, 10, 11, 15, 29.Diyarbak›r: 4, 116, 118.Hakkari: 2.Food&Drinks:9 , 11, 23, 24, Dictionary: 2, 9, 10,11. GGeeyyllaannii AAdd››yyaammaann:: Bingöl:7.Bitlis: 23, 29, 30, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38, 39, 35, 40, 41,43.fianl›urfa:21, 22. Intro: 37. HHaakkkkaarrii MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Hakkari: 7, 8, 18, 21, 32, 35, 36, 37, 51.HHeeaaddbbaannii:: Ad›yaman:61, 62, 64. HHüüssaammeettttiinn BBaahhççee:: Ad›yaman: 56, 57. A¤r›:18 Batman: 18, 20,Diyarbak›r: 51, 53, 65, 98, 99, 100, 115, 121.240. Hakkari:5. Van:49, 50.Intro 18. Dictionary: 6,Transport:1. JJeellllee VVeerrhheeiijj:: Bitlis:, 2, 20, 22, 51, 52.Elaz›¤: 36.Diyarbak›r: 73, 97.Mardin: 20, Van:18,22, 23, 48, 57, 59, 67, 68, 73. GGAABBBB //KKaammeeeell AAhhmmaaddyy:: Ad›yaman:1, 6, 12, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24,30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 39, 40, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 72, 73, 74, 78,79, 80, 81, 82. A¤r›: 13, 14, 17, 21, 23, 24, 29, 31, 32, 34, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 49, 50.Batman: 4, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, 44, 54, 59, 60, 62, 64, 65, 68, 69, 70, 71,72, 73. Bingöl:8, 13, 14, 16, 17, 21, 25, 26, 27, 30. Bitlis: 6, 9, 10, 11, 17, 18, 19, 25, 28, 31, 37,44, 45, 47, 26. Diyarbak›r: 9, 13, 16, 25, 27, 32, 39, 40, 42, 43, 71, 74, 76, 80, 86, 88, 91, 95, 101,103, 105, 107, 108, 109, 110, 112, 113, 114.117.123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 129, 130, 131, 133, 134,135, 136, 138, 139, 140, 141, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 149, 150, 151, 152, 153, 154, 157,159, 160, 161, 163, 165, 166, 167, 168, 169, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175, 176, 178, 179, 180, 181,182, 183, 184, 185, 186, 188, 189, 191, 192, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199, 200, 201, 202, 207, 222,224, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 235, 236, 237. Elaz›¤:10, 13, 16, 17, 30, 31, 33, 41, 42, 45.Hakkari: 9, 12, 15, 19, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27, 29, 40, 44, 47, 50, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 59, 61, 62,64, 65, 70, 71, 73. Mardin: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22, 23, 24, 25, 25,26, 29, 30, 32, 35, 36, 46, , 52, 53, 55, 57, 61, 62, 63, 64, 67, 69, 70, 72, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79,34. Mufl: 8, 12, 19, 20, 21, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 30. Siirt:4, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21,22, 24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 33, 35, 37, 38, 8, 10, 17. fianl›urfa:1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 17, 18, 24, 26,28, 29, 30, 33, 36, 38, 40, 46, 49, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 63, 64, 65, 69, 70, 73, 74, 78, 81, 82,83.fi›rnak: 6, 7, 8, 21, 33, 46, 48, 49, 51, 53, 55, 61, 65, 69, 72, 73. Tunceli:10, 12, 14, 22, 24,29, 30, 34, 36, 37, 41, 45, 46, 47, 49, 51, 52, 53, 56, 60, 63, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69. Van: 7, 10, 11,13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 40, 41, 42, 44, 46, 52, 53, 54, 61, 65, 69, 71, 75, 76, 77,80, 82, 85, 88, 90, 92. Intro: 5, 17, 19, 20, 21, 26, 29, 31. Accomodation:1, 2, 3, 4. Food&Drinks: 7,

PHOTO CREDITS

671

20, 25. Dictionary: 3, 7. KKeemmaall ÖÖzzeerr:: Tunceli1, 2, 6, 15, 16, 21, 23, 25, 26, 27, 28, 33, 35, 38, 48, 50,59, 8, 39. Intro: 10, 24, 16 . LLiiccee MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: 177. MMaarrddiinn MMuusseeuumm:: Mardin: 45. MMaammoossttee KKoonnee RReeflfl::fi›rnak:31, 32, 34, 52, 15. MMeerrtthhaann AAnn››kk:: Batman:5, Diyarbak›r:215, 220, 223. Intro: 15. MMeehhmmeettMMaassuumm SSüüeerr:: Batman 45, 48, 49, 52, 53, 55, 57, 61, 63, 43. Diyarbak›r: 1, 5, 14, 15, 18, 22, 28, 29,31, 33, 34, 36, 37, 38, 44, 45, 46, 47, 49, 48, 64, 70. Intro 12, 27 Food&Drinks: 4, 5, 15. Dictionary: 4, 5. MMiirrzzaa ÇÇeelliikk:: Diyarbak›r:187, 190, 193, 194. MMuussttaaffaaKKaarraabbuulluutt:: Diyarbak›r: 142. MMuussttaaffaa AAvvcc››llaarr:: Food&Drinks:16, 17, 18, 19, 29, 22, 28, 12, 13, 31.MMuussttaaffaa BBaallaabbaann:: Elaz›¤:5, 11, 38. MM..MMuussttaaffaa ÖÖzzyyaaflflaarr:: Ad›yaman: 63, MMuurraatt SSaarr››oo¤¤lluu:: fianl›urfa:47,50, 51, 52, 53, 55, 57, 61. MM..SSeezzggiinn:: fianl›urfa: 41, 42. 44. MM..fifieerriiff FF››rraatt:: A¤r›: 27, Batman:1. Siirt: 40NNaassrruullllaahh MMüüeezzzziinnoo¤¤lluu:: Hakkari: 3, 6, 10, 14, 16, 17, 28, 33, 45, 49, 58, 66.Van:28, 64, 70.Intro:34. NNuussaayybbiinn MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Mardin: 41, 44. ÖÖmmeerr FFiiddaann:: Hakkari: 42. ÖÖzzggüürr YYaarraarr:: Elaz›¤:1, 2, 4, 8,26, 27, 29, 39, PPhhoottoosshhoopp ((AAddiillcceevvaazz)):: Bitlis: 42. PPhhoottoo RReemmzzii:: Bitlis1, 7, 12, 13, 24, 46, 5. PPiieerrGGiioorrggiioo CCaassoottttii:: A¤r›: 25, Batman:58, Bingöl 20.Hakkari:1, 39.Siirt: 12, 27, 29,36.fianl›urfa:48.fi›rnak:10. RRaammaazzaann ‹‹mmrraa¤¤:: fi›rnak: 9, 11, 12, 14, 18, 20. RReecceepp KKaavvuuflfl:: A¤r›: 26.Batman:1, 2, 6, 8, 14, 16, 24, 28, 33. Mardin: 33. RR››ddvvaann OO¤¤uuzz:: Siirt:2, 3, 5, 23, 34. RRiicchhaarrdd LLiimm::Food&Drinks: 1 , 3, 8. SSaabbrrii ÖÖzzddeemmiirr:: Batman:36, 39. SSaadd››kk KKöökköözz:: Bingöl:9, SSeelliimm TToopprraakk:: Batman23, 37, 38, 42, 51, Food&Drinks: 21, SSeellmmeett GGüülleerr:: Batman:50. Diyarbak›r: 52, 19, 72, 89, 92, 122,155, 156, 162. Mardin: 1, 2, 13, 21, 28, 31, 37, 38, 39, 40, 42, 43, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 54, 56, 58,59, 60, 71, 73, 27.Siirt: 39, fianl›urfa:32, 34, 66.fi›rnak: 1, 22, 36.Intro:13, 32, 33, SSeerrvveett AArrssllaann::A¤r›:1, 2, 4, 7, 8, 9, 16, 28, 39, 51, 52. SSiillooppii MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: fi›rnak: 56, 57, 58 SSiillvvaann MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Diyarbak›r: 216, 217, 219, 221.SSoollhhaann MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Bingöl: 19, Intro: 25.fifi››rrnnaakk MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: fi›rnak: 40 fifiiirriinn GGeenncceerr:: Ad›yaman:45, 5.Diyarbak›r:158.Food&Drinks:2. TTuunncceellii MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Tunceli: 4, 5, 18, 19, 20, 42, 44, 54, 55, 57, 58, 61, 62, 64, 9,11.Food: 14. UUllaaflfl FFuutt:: Mardin: 65, 66, 68. VVaarrttoo MMuunniicciippaalliittyy:: Mufl:15. VViirraannflfleehhiirr MMuunniicciippaalliittyy::fianl›urfa:45. WWeellaatt DDiillkkeenn:: Ad›yaman: 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 19, 25, 26, 38, 42,53, 54, 58, 59, 60, 65, 71. WWEEBB:: AAdd››yyaammaann:: 27, tirej.net.28, 43, 44. ad›yamanl›.org.55,resimler.com.A¤r›:3, bakiler.org. 37, flap.com, BBaattmmaann:: 32, bato.com. 34, 35, joshbelzman.40,silkroadfactsanddetails.com.41, mehmeti.com, BBiinnggööll:: 4, radiozaza.com, BBiittlliiss:: 3, wikipedia.com.15,kenthaber.com.50, saradistribution.com. 7, mideastimage.com.30, yahoo diyarbak›r group 63, sar-adistribution.com.119, vinovixenz.com.164, ebarzan.com.205, mehmeti.com.212, nationalmuse-umnetherlands. EEllaazz››¤¤:: 3, harputkoleji.6, verso.com.7, avesta.com.19, 20, 21, 24, 25, 34, 35, 43,44, resimler.com.22ersoyatay.23wikipedia.com.28drcigdemözkanenginaygün.com.HHaakkkkaarrii:: 4, 11kurdistanica.com.24, amoymagic.com.60, thewe.cc, 38, 72, saradistribution.com.MMuuflfl:: 7, dengbej-huseyno.tr.Siirt: 31, panaromio.com. fifiaannll››uurrffaa:: 39, bumsuz.net, fifi››rrnnaakk::4, 15, 23, 24,25, bedirxani.com.TTuunncceellii:: 3, saradistribution, 17, aynurdo¤an.net.31, ovac›kevi.com.VVaann:: 3, ord-front.se.4, tirej.net.6, binbo¤a.net, 12, panoramio.com, 51thesun.co.uk, 86, pbase.com, 1, 2, 8,5, 19, 21, 24, 25, 26, 32, 35, 36, 38, 39, 43, 55, 60, 66, 78, 79, 81, 87, 89, 91, 84, vanmerkez.com. IInnttrroo:: 1, 2 saradistribution.11, weather.com, 28, diyarbak›ryahoogroup.comFFoooodd&&DDrriinnkkss::30 diyarbak›r.gov.tr, 10, vanmerkez.com.

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