ANIMA MUNDI #2

NIMA MUNDIANIMA

MUNDIA

Adventures in Wildlife PhotographyIssue 2, Year 1 - 2nd Quarter, April 2011

In This Issue:

SECRET REALM OF THE DRAGON SNAKE Malaysias Cameron HighlandsIN THE HALLS OF THE BISON KING Polands Bialowieza National Park

ANEMONEFISH A portrait of the pesky and adorable ClownfishAMAZING AMAZONIA A portfolio by Roberto Fabbri

Issue 2, Year 1 - 2nd Quarter, April 2011

In This Issue:

SECRET REALM OF THE DRAGON SNAKE Malaysias Cameron HighlandsIN THE HALLS OF THE BISON KING Polands Bialowieza National Park

ANEMONEFISH A portrait of the pesky and adorable ClownfishAMAZING AMAZONIA A portfolio by Roberto Fabbri

2Welcome to the second issue of ANIMA MUNDI!Since you are reading this, we have good rea-son to believe you liked the previous one. Well,we are convinced you will like this one too, andthe many others to follow - there is a lot cookingin the pot, and we have been travelling theworld far and wide to provide the magazinewith more and more interesting content. Theresso much beauty and adventure out there!However, we have realized that in our first edito-rial we were too busy waxing lyrically about themeaning of our title and its raison detre to offersome actual insight about ANIMA MUNDIs edi-torial structure, so we shall do that now.

Our online magazine basically offers three diffe-rent types of articles, each introduced by its ownseparate heading. ON THE TRAIL are long, com-prehensive, extensively illustrated wildlife tripreports - the emphasis is obviously on wildlife pho-tography, as elsewhere in ANIMA MUNDI, but thetext accompanying the images attempts to be bothfactual and evocative. The idea behind this kind ofreporting is to make you really, really want to gothere as you read, and the feature presents a full,down-to-earth coverage of the destination, enri-ched by a large selection of the photographicsubjects one might realistically encounter. At thesame time, there is also some emotional narrative -highly personal, no doubt - which should transmitthe true feeling and atmosphere of the place to thereader. We are convinced this is a very importantaspect of field reporting, which is however toooften overlooked in the obsessive search for thebare facts. We avoid delving too deeply in theorganizational aspect of the trips, as too many fac-tors are involved and too many things are subjectto abrupt change, but we do mention (and oftenrecommend from first-hand experience) those wild-life guides, nature resorts or travel companies wehave successfully travelled with, as these can real-ly make or break a wildlife photography trip. Thiskind of information is essential to ensure success!

SPOTLIGHT articles focus instead on single spe-cies, groups or even behavioural aspects - theseare probably a little bit more scientific in theirapproach and just a teeny-weeny bit less emotio-nally involved, attempting to offer some detailedand hopefully interesting information about thestunning creatures we focus on. You will probablyfind a lot of surprising new facts in these in-deptharticles, and our unexpected wide-ranging choiceof subjects will possibly tempt many readers to pickthem up for the next photographic challenge. Therewill be a lot of diversity here but photographicappeal will be always paramount, dictating ourchoices. PORTFOLIOS will - as most portfolios do,in fact, so nothing new here - feature the work of asingle guest wildlife photographer in his or herown words and, most importantly, images. As wehave already done in our book A Divers Guide tothe Art of Underwater Photography, we shall featu-re both professionals and amateurs as long as qua-lity is high and subjects are interesting and / orunusual. Publishing ones images is always difficultif fame has not been attained yet, and we are gladto offer this opportunity to anybody interested. Bythe way - ANIMA MUNDI is created on AppleiMac 24-inch computers and looks at its stunningbest in Hi-Res on a big widescreen iMac monitor.

For the time being, these are basically the threeclear-cut facets of ANIMA MUNDI - Adventures inWildlife Photography. As the magazine grows,more could possibly follow - reviews of books andcamera equipment for instance, or a wildlife /environment world news section. But, as in natureitself, simplicity is usually the best option. So wellalways try to keep our quarterly lean and essential,while at the same time offering exceptionally wellillustrated, uncommonly long articles which allowuniquely in-depth coverage.

Have a good trip!Andrea & Antonella Ferrari

www.animamundimag.com

NIMA MUNDIA THE BEAUTY OF SIMPLICITY

Adventures in Wildlife Photography

When Giovanna Holbrook took on the challenge of leading two University of Florida science professors and a group of naturalists to the Galpagos Islands in 1971, she had no way of knowing the lasting impact that experience would have on her life and on the lives of those traveling with her. The group journeyed throughout the archipelago aboard a retired navy vessel, propelled by their spirit of adventure and thirst for knowledge. At that time, the Galpagos was just celebrating its twelfth year as a national park, conservation work at the Charles Darwin Research Station was still in its infancy, and tourism in the islands was virtually non-existent.

More than thirty years later, Holbrook Travel continues to serve the needs of teachers, students, academic institutions, and nature lovers. Although many changes have taken place over the years, Holbrook Travel has taken great care to remain true to its roots. As news of environmental concerns and world conflicts continue to fill the airwaves, it seems more important than ever to help people gain a better understanding and appreciation of the natural world and other cultures through firsthand experiences. In the words of Andrea Holbrook, president: Our goal is to try to continue the great work my mother started.

To Travel Is to LEarn.

HOLBROOKTRAV E L

explore hoLbrook's DIVErsE ranGE of proGrams on our websiTe

34SECRET REALM OF THE DRAGON SNAKEMalaysias Cameron Highlands and Pulau TiomanWITH EXTRA VIDEO CONTENT

49IN THE HALLS OF THE BISON KINGPolands Bialowieza NPWITH EXTRA VIDEO CONTENT

90ANEMONEFISHA portrait of ClownfishWITH EXTRA VIDEO CONTENT

102AMAZING AMAZONIAA Portfolio by Roberto Fabbri

118THE PARTING SHOT

We appreciate yourfeedback - constructive

criticism, useful suggestionsand interesting

contributions are mostwelcome.

Please drop us a line at

[email protected]

ANIMA MUNDIAdventures in Wildlife

Photographyis a Free Quarterly Online Magazine

www.animamundimag.com

PublishersAndrea and Antonella

[email protected]

Editor-in-ChiefAndrea Ferrari

[email protected]

Layout Design & ArtDirection

Laura GenoveseAnna Bortolini

VideographyAntonella Ferrari

[email protected]

Video EditingLeon Joubert & Claudia

[email protected]

Distribution & TechnicalSupport

Peter [email protected]

All rights reserved. Material inthis publication may not bereproduced, modified or

transferred electronically in anyform without written permission

from the copyright owners.

Contents

Robinson's Anglehead lizardGonocephalus robinsonii, a distinctivelywhite-lipped agamid endemic to the montane rainforests of the Cameron Highlands in West Malaysia.

nhbsEverything for wildlife, science & environment

Dear Anima Mundi Rea

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The NHBS team

The Nature Guide to the Bialowieza Primeval For-est, PolandDirk HilbersThe perfect guidebook for the nature enthusiast.

Wild MalaysiaJunaidi PayneThe spectacular wildlife and breathtaking landscapes of peninsular Malaysia, Sarawak and Sabah.

A Field Guide to the Rep-tiles of South-East AsiaIndraneil DasExtensive coverage of South-East Asia. Detailed and compre-hensive.

A Divers Guide to Reef LifeAndrea Ferrari and Antonella FerrariIndispensable companion to the fascinating inhabitants of the worlds reefs.

The Nature Guide to the Biebrza Marshes, PolandDirk Hilbers et alBiebrzas wild nature forms an exciting and living travel destination.

A Field Guide to the Birds of South-East AsiaCraig RobsonThis award-winning guide is fully illustrated and covers all 1,300 species.

A Field Guide to the Mammals of South-East AsiaCharles M FrancisCovers all the mammals recorded from mainland South-East Asia.

Reef Creature Identifica-tion: Tropical PacificPaul H Humann and Ned DeloachDetails 1600 species of marine invertebrates found inhabiting the Tropical Pacific waters.

Essays on Mammals of Bialowieza ForestEdited by Bogumila Jedrzejew-ska and Jan M WojcikCovers the whole range of native species.

A Pocket Guide to Dragonflies of Peninsular MalaysiaAG OrrPeninsular Malaysia and Singapore are home to more than 230 species of dragonfly.

A Guide to the Pitcher Plants of Peninsular MalaysiaCharles ClarkeCovers the 10 spectacular native species and several natu-ral hybrids that occur in the region.

Corals of the World J.E.N. Veron and Mary Stafford SmithA magnificent reference, provid-ing comprehensive coverage of reef-building corals.

Biebrza Site GuideLukasz MazurekWhere to watch the birds and large mammals of the Biebrza Marshes.

A Birdwatchers Guide to MalaysiaJohn BransburyThis classic bestselling site-guide covers over 40 major sites.

A Photographic Guide to Snakes and other Reptiles of Peninsular Malaysia, Singapore and ThailandMerel J Cox et alUseful compact, pocket-sized guide with colour photographs.

A Reef in TimeJ.E.N VeronPresents the geological history and conservation challenges of the Great Barrier Reef

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4OntheTrail

EXTREME TREKKING IN THE CAMERON HIGHLANDS AND PULAU TIOMAN

SECRET REALM OF THE DRAGON SNAKEExploring West Malaysias impenetrabile montane rainforests

searching for beautiful, rare and occasionally dangerous faunaHEREGOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE

EXTREME TREKKING IN THE CAMERON HIGHLANDS AND PULAU TIOMAN

SECRET REALM OF THE DRAGON SNAKEExploring West Malaysias impenetrable montane rainforests

searching for beautiful, rare and occasionally dangerous fauna

5he four feet long, wrist-thicksnake lies motionless, elegantlydraped on a half-rotten, moss-coveredtree stump, its heavy, muscular bodywreathed in glorious gold, pale greenand velvety black. A large adultWaglers pit viper, probably apregnant female: a strikingly beautifulspecies whose apparent, deceivinglethargy conceals the capability ofinflicting highly venomous, lightning-fast bites. Drops of water glisten on itsbroadly banded back, every pearlybead a miniature rainbow in the sunsrays which scythe through therainforest canopy, cutting through theall-pervading wisps of mist. Stunned,frozed in admiration, we silently watchits incredibly massive, broadlytriangular head hesitantly uncoil andrise towards us, its small, grey-greenbeady eyes watching us intently, thelong black forked tongue slowlydarting forward, tasting the still,moisture-filled air. Mesmerized, Islowly draw my camera lens evercloser to its dragon-snake face, tryingto find a precarious balance on themuddy, slippery, mossy slope.Squinting through the viewfinder of myNikon I can clearly see its heat-sensingpits, located between its cold eyes andits backward-turned nostrils. I know itcan sense my body warmth throughthese, its primeval mind scanning with

utmost accuracy an infrared image ofmy body parts. The first third of its thickbody compressed in a spring-poweredfigure-S, the diamond-shaped broad,deep head - covered in sharply ridgedscales - is now focusing on my ever-so-slow approach, the forked tonguesflickering getting testier, faster,broader. I know the signs and I hug mycamera closer, precariously hiding myface and exposed knuckles behind theheavy cardboard shield which ringsthe 105mm macro lens and which Ihave built for exactly this purpose - toprotect my vulnerable fingers from itsheat sensors. As I reach the invisibleborder separating me from the hugepit viper, imperceptibly inching closerand closer to get a sharper portrait, thesnake suddenly lunges forward,heavily, its bright white mouth innerlinings flashing briefly in the forestsdamp perennial twilight, its longcurved unsheated fangs erected. Evenknowing this was coming - a half-hear ted, sluggish attempt atintimidating the intruder rather than afully-fledged, violent, lighting-fastvenomous defensive bite - my heartskips a beat as I almost lose my footingon the muddy, squishing ground,backing off with a half -gasp ofenthusiastic awe. Contented with itsgenuinely impressive show of powerand grace, the snake coils up slowly

T TEXT BY ANDREA FERRARIPHOTOS BY ANDREA & ANTONELLA FERRARI

continued on page 7

A female Wagler's or Temple PitViper Tropidolaemus wagleri, a tropical arboreal venomouscrotalid, rears up in a threatdisplay on a trail of the Cameron Highlands, West Malaysia.

6Left top, an adult Red Mountain raceror Bamboo Rat snake Oreocrypthophisporphyracea sub. laticincta, a verycolorful and active terrestrial colubridrestricted to the cool montane rainforestsof Southeast Asia. Left bottom, a TwinSpotted or Himalayan Flying frogRhacophorus bipunctatus, a small speciesfound in the same habitat. Right, a bright red and very tiny mushroomphotographed in the montane rainforestof the Cameron Highlands.

7again, but its massive, threatening headis now fully alert, constantly turning tofollow our clumsy movements as wesurround it in a surreal, trance-likeballet. The dragon is awake. We knowthere will be no more bluffs from now on.

OF SNAKES, SLOPES AND SCONES

We have been trekking for hours on theslippery, muddy, heavily forested andvery steep slopes of these peaks, the

perennially drenched and surprisinglycool untouched mountains on theCameron Highlands, a popular holidayretreat of Peninsular Malaysia.Relatively close to crowded, highlydeveloped Kuala Lumpur, this is a much-loved weekend destination for those citydwellers wishing to flee the oppressiveheat of the surrounding lowlands, forMalaysians wishing to spend theirholidays in an occasionally ridiculouspseudo-European and theme-park likehill station (replete with fake Tudor

A Twin Spotted orHimalayan Flying frogRhacophorus bipunctatus,a small and rather colorfulspecies often encounteredin the cool, water-soakedmontane rainforests of Southeast Asia.

8caulk-and-beams little straw-roofedhamlets everywhere) and an all-inclusivetour location where Western tourists areherded by bus to hurriedly swallow tea,scones and strawberry jam amongcarefully tended rose lawns. The absurdabundance of temperate-climate fruitsand vegetables in the CameronHighlands has given rise to aninordinate amount of farms and touristattractions - we cannot forget thewonderfully inventive billboard invitingvisitors to a greenhouse and its Self-plucking Strawberries...Now thatwould be interesting! The landscape isstunningly beautiful, with dramatic,ever-changing skies looming overtender green, rolling hills which areterraced with tea cultivations andintersped with deep stretches of thicklyforested slopes and ravines. What mostvisitors do not know - and really do notcare about - is that in fact the CameronHighlands still feature exceptionally

large areas of connected, untouched,unspoilt wilderness, encompassing allhabitats from dry lowland to montanerainforest to mossy elfin (or cloud)forest: a scenic environment which is allbut inaccessible to most - except itsnative inhabitants - and which boasts anabsolutely amazing biodiversity.Intrigued by the little information wecould get from the Internet, we had anunexpected stroke of luck when wecontacted our guide for the trip - young,literate and enthusiastic herpetologistHans Kam, who - despite hissurprisingly Germanic first name - is infact an ethnic Chinese hailing fromKuala Lumpur and a veritable mine oftried-and-tested knowledge regardingthe Camerons and their reptilepopulations. A frequent visitor andindependent explorer of the largelyuntapped wilderness of the area, Hanshas built over time an exceptionallyuseful network of relationships with

continued on page 10

Steep, mist-cloaked and almost impenetrable: the pristine montanerainforest of the Cameron Highlands.

A mysterious world of steep valleys and mist-cloaked forests

9A juvenile, yellow-phase specimen of the

Oriental WhipsnakeAhaetulla prasina, a mildly-venomous,

rear-fanged colubrid. Its large eyes with their

keyhole-shaped pupilallow frontal, binocular

view to better grasp fast-moving lizard prey in

thickly forested habitats.

10

local collectors and forest dwellers,which allow him to take his clients offthe beaten track in search of the rare,spectacular species which are soabundant and yet so frustratinglyreclusive in this forbidding environment.Hans also authors and maintains theenthusiastically opinionated butnevertheless very informative websitewww.naturemalaysia.com which is anabsolute must for those interested inexploring the area or simply wishing toknow more about it and its fauna.

MISTY MOUNTAINS AND RUGGEDRAINFORESTS

We had been repeatedly alerted inadvance by Hans about theoccasionally steep and very wetconditions prevailing when trekking offthe beaten track in the CameronHighlands, but we were neverthelesssurprised and occasionally impeded bythe extreme ruggedness of the terrain,which is to be visited at night andduring the rainy season for the bestchances of success not an easyendeavour when carrying 15 kgs ofcamera equipment on ones back. Aswe all know snakes, lizards and insectsare more plentiful and easier toencounter during the monsoon season,but in the Cameron Highlands thismeans dealing on a daily basis withtruly torrential downpours, lowtemperatures (we measured 12C at

night with temperatures in their 30sduring the day), faintly marked or non-existent forest trails trasformed intosticky, glutinous traps of ankle-deepmud, the onslaught of leeches and ageneral state of physical misery whichis compounded by the lack of heatingin the local hotels. Add to this the factthat the average night trek may lastfrom four to six hours, taking place on80 slopes with only roots or twigs forhandholds, through thick thornyshrubbery or by wading up stonystreambeds, often having to deal withfallen tree trunks, slippery footholdsand running, ice-cold water up to onesmid-calf and youll soon realize - as wedid - that this is neither easy norcomfortable. In fact, much to ourdismay and humiliation, on a fewmemorable occasions we had to giveup our planned itinerary when halfwaythrough and opt for something moremanageable. Footwear and clothesmolding - if not downright rotting -overnight, the occasional messy leechbite and all-too-frequent falls head-over-heels in mud, over buttress roots anddown steep slopes or forest floorravines were - however embarassing -a small price to be gladly paid for theamazing encounters we had: thanks toHans unique proficieny in the field wewere able to find and photograph anumber of species we had onlydreamed of until then, and which areall but invisible to anyone visiting theforest by himself.

MalaysianDead Leaf mantisDeroplatyslobata, apraying mantisof Southeast Asiawhich isexquisitelycamouflaged tolook like a dead,dry leaf. Surelyone of thenatural world'smost stunningexamples ofcamouflage andmimicry, it is oneof the manyfascinatingspecies found in the CameronHighlands.


11

Spectacular, prehistoric-looking three-meter tall Giant ferns are a visual, unmistakable landmark of the upper reaches of the Cameron Highlands.

12

The Mountain Horned lizard Acanthosaurus armata - a small, colorful and very spiky agamid - is restricted to the cool, water-soaked montane rainforesthabitats of Southeast Asia.

13

The Cameron Highlands Pit Viper Trimeresurus nebularisis an arboreal, highly venomous crotalid. This recentlydescribed, endemic species is found in very cool mountain rainforest environments and its distribution is exclusively restricted to the Cameron Highlands of West Malaysia.

14

Antonella busies herself shooting a beautiful specimen of theCameron Highlands Pit Viper Trimeresurus nebularis, a recentlydescribed, endemic,arboreal and highly venomous crotalid.These mostly nocturnal snakes can be quite active at surprisingly low ambient temperatures - as low as 12C.

15

The scenic panoramas of the

Cameron Highlands areoften blessed withdramatic, swirling

cloudscapes - a greatbonus for photographers

and videographers.

Cameron HighlandsCLICK ON THE IMAGE AND WATCH

A SHORT VIDEO ON SOME OF

THE CAMERON HIGHLANDSMOST SPECTACULAR NATURAL

HIGHLIGHTS

ANIMA MUNDI

ON

16

A Malaysian Jungle Nymph or Green NymphWalking Stick Heteropteryx dilatata, one of the world's largest and heaviest insects. Large specimens such as this may reach a lengthof 20 centimeters and a weight of over 65 grams.

17

Tender green tea plantations against a bright blue sky - a typical panorama of the CameronHighlands of Peninsular Malaysia. Even if such man-made habitats are often rich in interesting reptile, amphibian and insect species, access to most tea plantations - which are privatelyowned - is normally severely restricted.

The finelystructured leaves of Giant ferns - endlesslyrepeating analmost abstractpattern - offerinteresting texturesand details to the naturephotographer.

18

19

Left, the softlyrolling landscapeof tea plantations.Right, a striking adult of theOrientalWhipsnakeAhaetulla prasina,a mildly-venomous,rear-fangedcolubrid, with its chequered skin showingbetween the brightgreen scales in a typically colorfulthreat display.

20

The MalaysianOrchid MantisHymenopus coronatusis a small prayingmantis which mimicsto perfectionPhalaenopsis orchidflowers (picturedabove and commonlyfound in its naturalhabitat) to trick itsinsect prey.

21

At their highestelevations the

Cameron Highlandsoften offer unrivalled

scenic views, withsteep forest-covered

mountainsidesshrouded in

swirling, dramaticclouds.

Dramatic landscapes of swirling clouds cloaking virgin rainforests

22From left to right, a Malaysian Dead Leaf mantis Deroplatys desiccata,

a praying mantis of Southeast Asia which looks exactly like a dead, dry leaf; a Malayan Water monitor Varanus salvator, a large, imposing and very agile semiaquatic monitor lizard extensively found throughout Southeast Asia;and finally a Malaysian Horned frog or Long-nosed frog Megophrys nasuta,perfectly camouflaged among dead leaves and forest litter.

23

Kuhl's Flying gecko Ptychozoon kuhlii, showing

the extensive webbing which enables this species to glide for some

distance if threatened. Its cryptic livery mimics to near-perfection the tree

bark on which this gecko is found.

24

A large, beautifullypatterned adult WaglersPit Viper Tropidolaemuswagleri lies in ambush,draped on a small branchby a forest waterfall.

25A pair of displaying males of the Larut Rice Frogs

Microhyla annectans, observed at night at a temperature of 12C in the Cameron Highlands.Despite the cold, several couples of this exceptionallytiny amphibian were observed actively mating and breeding in a roadside rain puddle.

A Larut Rice Frog sitting onAntonellas thumb shows theexceedingly tiny size of this species.Microhylids enjoy a circumtropicaldistribution, being the most commongroup of frogs in Madagascar andPapua New Guinea.

26Bell's Anglehead lizard

Gonocephalus belli, a large and very colorful agamid inhabitingthe undisturbed rainforests of Thailand, Malaysia and Borneo.

27A juvenile specimen of the Red Mountain racer or

Bamboo Rat snake Oreocrypthophis porphyracea sub.laticincta clearly shows its distinctive red and orangebanded livery, which will turn uniformly candy-red once it will reach adulthood. This colorful and active colubridspecies is restricted to the cool montane habitats of Southeast Asia.

28

Clockwise from topleft: Siamese Pit viperTrimeresurus wiroti,a colorful and highlyvenomous semi-arborealor terrestrial crotalidfound in lowland andsubmontane rainforestsof Thailand and WestMalaysia. Top right,Green Crested lizardBronchocela cristatella,a common inhabitant ofprimary and secondaryrainforests in SoutheastAsia. Bottom right,Common or Dusky Mockviper Psammodynastespulverulentus, aterrestrial, nocturnal,rear-fanged, mildlyvenomous snake foundthoughout SoutheastAsia. Bottom left,Common Malayan racerElaphe flavolineatus,a large, fast andaggressive terrestrial orsemi-arboreal colubridfound in the lowlandforests of WestMalaysia, Borneo andIndonesia. All photoswere taken in theCameron Highlands.

29

Pied Mossy Frog Theloderma asperum,a small and rarely observed species found in montane rainforests throughout Southeast Asia.When seen from above (above) this slow-moving species mimics with surprising accuracy anunpalatable bird dropping to avoid predation.

30

Left, a Giant Leafinsect Phylliumgiganteum, alarge nocturnalPhasmid ofSoutheast Asiawhich mimics withstunning accuracya set of leaves.This fascinatingspecies is one ofthe natural world'smost strikingexamples ofmimicry andcamouflage. Right,a Twin Spotted orHimalayan Flyingfrog Rhacophorusbipunctatus, asmall speciestypically found inthe cool montanerainforests ofSoutheast Asia.

31

A Malaysian OrchidMantis Hymenopus

coronatus, a small prayingmantis which mimics

with jaw-dropping accuracy the Phalaenopsis orchid

flowers found in its foresthabitat. The Cameron

Highlands offer very goodchances of finding thesegraceful, rarely-spotted

insects in the wild,especially during the rainy season.

32A Malayan Crested lizard Gonocephalus grandis,

an imposing and spectacularly colorful agamid foundin undisturbed rainforest habitats throughout Southeast Asia. This beautiful male allowed a closeapproach when found in a very cold drizzle.

33

Giant Leaf insect Phyllium

giganteum, a largenocturnal Phasmid of Southeast Asia

which looks exactlylike a set of leaves.

Notice howperfectly even

the leavesveining is reproduced! A large female such as the onepictured can be

over10 cms long.

34

Giant Forest or Green-Eyed geckoGekko smithi,a large andpugnacious geckorestricted to pristine,undisturbed forest habitats of Southeast Asia. Bites from thisbeautiful but shy and uncommon species can be quite painful.

35

Stunning mountain views of pristine, impenetrable cloud forests

The stunning cloud or elfin forest viewfrom the top of Gunung Brinchang, one of the highest elevations of theCameron Highlands. Sadly, habitat

alteration and human encroachment canalready be clearly seen in the distance.

36

Giant Rhino beetle Chalcosomacaucasus, one of the world'slargest beetles and proportionallyone of the world's strongestanimals. Large males such as this one can make truly spectacular camera subjects.

37

Basking in the sun under the ominous clouds of an approaching storm

A beautiful Wagler's or Temple Pit ViperTropidolaemus wagleri, an arboreal

crotalid which is still relatively common inthe Camerons. This massive individual wasfound basking in the sun by a forest road -

with the dark, rain-laden clouds of a stormysky in the background adding a dramatic,

welcome touch to the scene.

38

Pulau TiomanCLICK ON THE IMAGE AND WATCH

A SHORT VIDEO ON SOME OF

PULAU TIOMAN MOSTSPECTACULAR NATURAL

HIGHLIGHTS

ANIMA MUNDI

ON

Fully satisfied - and rather humbled - bytwo very energetic weeks spentexploring the verdant but almostimpenetrable Cameron Highlands, wethen drove all the way down to the eastcoast of mainland Malaysia to board aferry to our next destination, thecelebrated Pulau Tioman - an idyllicand steeply mountainous island in theSouth China Sea which boasts animpressive herpetofauna with a veryhigh incidence of endemisms. Almostdeserted during the monsoon by thebudget tourists and backpackers whichcrowd it during the dry season (andwhich represent the main source ofincome for its meagre residentpopulation besides fishing), Tiomanwelcomes visitors landing on its shoreswith its tall, craggy, heavily forestedand rather forbidding profile,reminding one of the movie classicKing Kongs fabled Skull Island.Sparsely populated along thecoastline (an almost ininterruptedsequence of cheap tourist bungalowsand seafood restaurants rings it alongits sandy beaches, but luckily the

mountainous inside is still heavilyforested, almost impenetrable andtotally undeveloped), the island iscrossed by a single, twisting and verysteep tarmac road. It also offers severalforest walking trails of varying difficulty- ideal hunting grounds for our nightlyexplorations in search of interestingherpetofauna. Besides featuring a highnumber of rare or endemic species(including an incredible and onlyrecently described turquoise blue pitviper, which sadly we did not finddespite all our efforts), the island ispopulated by an ungodly number ofhuge Water and Savannah monitors -these impressive, two-meter longlizards are literally everywhere (butusually not easily approached). Theisland climate of sea-mount Tioman isobviously very different from thatencountered in the higher altitudes ofthe Cameron Highlands, and while theamount of rain we faced during ourpermanence there was equallystaggering, the average temperatureswere much higher, as was the numberof mosquitoes: despite being

Oriental Whipsnake Ahaetullaprasina, a mildly-venomous, rear-fanged colubrid. This juvenilespecimen - still in its yellowphase - was found by anovergrown forest trail in Pulau Tioman.

SHADES OF KONG!


Crab-eating or Long-tailed macaque Macaca fascicularis are very common on Pulau Tioman, where they are represented by an endemic insular subspecies. When encountered in large troops these monkeys can occasionally be bothersome and aggressive - especially if they are used to being fed by tourists.

39

An idyllic forest river forms a cascade ofquiet pools fringed with palms in Pulau Tioman.

Despite being rather small and mountainous,the island abounds with such enchanting views.

A tropical idyll of forest streams and palm tree landscapes

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occasionally rather steep, the foresttrails are much more easily negotiatedthan the non-existent ones of theCamerons, and our daily and nightlytreks on the island were both verypleasant and fruitful, even if the uniquefeeling of remoteness we hadexperienced in the cooler Highlandswas somewhat missing. Make nomistake, however - seriously exploringthe island can be similarly exhausting,as forests are very thick, slopes areoccasionally steep and slippery,several half - forgotten trai ls areovergrown and in disuse and the highdegree of humidity can prove trulystifling to the unaccustomed.

A TREASURE TROVE OF RARE SPECIES

It should be obvious by now this was ahighly specialized trip, which focusedalmost entirely on reptiles and insects,with a very special emphasis onmacrophotography and rainforestexploration - certainly not everybodyscup of tea, even if the results of suchendeavours can be both stunning andunique. Trips like this require a degree

The Many-linedSun skink Mabuyamultifasciatais another insularendemic subspeciesexclusively found in Pulau Tioman.Skinks and geckoesare exceedinglycommon on theislands forest floor.

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of physical fitness, the willingness toaccept and tolerate the occasionaldifficulty or failure, a tolerance for badweather, perennially damp conditionsand physical discomfort, and last butnot least a strong motivation. For us ithas been a spectacular experienceand we greatly enjoyed every minuteof it - we got what we were looking for,and even more than we expected,thanks to our guides field experience,enthusiasm and total dedication tomake the trip a successful one. Despitethe perennially damp conditions, ourcamera equipment - both our NikonD300s and all our Nikon strobes -performed faultlessly, and our Applelaptop did not miss a beat. The finalcount of firsts or simply exceptionalsightings - between the CameronHighlands and Pulau Tioman - hasbeen stunning for us, numbering -among others - spectacular specimens

of the endemic Camerons pit viper,Wirots or Siamese pit viper, OrientalWhip snake, Mock viper, Waglers orTemple viper, White-bellied Rat snake,Common Malayan racer, RedMountain racer, Dog-faced Watersnake, Banded Coral snake andReticulate python among snakes,Malayan Crested lizard, GreenCrested lizard, Mountain Hornedlizard, Robinsons Anglehead lizardand Bells Anglehead lizard amongagamids, Twin-spotted Flying frog,Malayan Horned frog and Pied Mossyfrog among amphibians plus GiantRhino beetle, Giant Leaf insect, GiantStick (or Forest Nymph) insect and theotherworldly Dead Leaf Mantis andOrchid Mantis to name only a few ofthe insects. We only missed finding aKing Cobra, which is apparentlyplentiful in Tioman - its going to be agood excuse to go back soon! .

Top left, KeeledRat snake Ptyascarinatus, a largeand aggressivecolubrid of SEAsias lowlandforests. Above,Reticulate pythonPython reticulatus,the worlds longestconstrictor and apowerful predator.Left, Banded Coralsnake Calliophisintestinalis sub.lineata, a deadlyvenomous elapidshowing brightaposematiccoloration. Notethe raised andupturned tip of thetail, showing brightorange ventrals in a typical threatdisplay.

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A small brook runs among scattered

boulders in the lowlandand sub-montane

dipterocarp and palmrainforest: a typical snake

habitat in Pulau Tioman.

Boulder-strewn brooks quietly murmuring in the forests perennial twilight

44A beautiful Reticulate python Python reticulatus lies elegantly

draped on a treefork in the hot, stifling rainforest of Pulau Tioman. This powerful constrictor of Southeast Asias forests is still relatively common and may occasionally prove dangerous to humans given

the large size - up to a length of 8 meters - it can attain.Its spectacularly-marked livery provides surprisingly efficient

camouflage in the sun-dappled forest environment.

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A Dog-faced Water snake Cerberusrynchops hunts for frogs, tadpoles and fish,lying half-submerged in a fast-running,clear mountain stream in Pulau Tioman.

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A portrait inreptilian elegance,a Malayan Watermonitor Varanussalvator basks on a granite boulderby a forest streamin Pulau Tioman.Notice its deeply-forked tongue tiptesting the air in thepresence of anintruder - despitetheir size thesemonitors are verywary and very fast,and are not easilyapproached.

A graceful portrait of supreme reptilian elegance

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COUNTRY OF DESTINATION: MALAYSIAROUTE: Your flight will land at KLIA (Kuala LumpurInternational Airport), one of the worlds most beautifuland modern airports. From there its a day-long tortuouscar drive to the Cameron Highlands, where youllprobably stay in Brinchang or Tanah Rata. If you wantto visit Tioman first, youll have to drive instead all theway down to the peninsular eastern coast to theharbour town of Mersing, spend the night there andcatch the ferry to the island the following morning. Itsa long and very tiring drive - we recommend going tothe Camerons first.

MEANS OF TRANSPORT: Visitors can rent a car inKuala Lumpur and drive themselves around but we donot recommend this at all - save yourself the trouble andhave the trip organized by a local guide who isthoroughly conversant with the routes and the bestwildlife viewing spots. Once in the Highlands there will

be some daily driving to get from your hotel to thejungle trails starting points, and then lots of hardwalking in steep, slippery, inhospitable terrain. InTioman it is walking and nothing else - to the point ofexhaustion if doing things seriously.

CURRENCY: Its advisable to change ones owncurrency in the local one (Ringgit Malaysia or RM)upon arrival in KL to save loss of valuable timelooking for local bank branches later on.

ACCOMODATION: Pick your choice from beautiful,top-class hotels to very cheap little hostels for locals.We suggest to stay in upper or middle-levelaccomodation as coming back from a physicallydemanding jungle trek one is often exhausted, coldand soaking wet, so a reasonable degree of comfortis very appreciated. Keep in mind that hotels in the

Camerons - despite the prevailing cool and wet climate- do not offer room heating. In Tioman the same applies- one can choose from the luxurious Tioman BerjayaResort to a zillion cheap and rather dingy beachfronthuts. We choose the former the dampness and theheat were enough without having to deal with themosquitoes and the rats, plus we want our expensivecamera equipment to be safe when we are not there.

FOOD: Absolutely wonderful - theres an enormous,mouth-watering variety to choose from asMalaysians love eating out. We recommend beingadventurous and trying a few of the roadside ethnicChinese eateries which abound in Brinchang - theycertainly look intimidating and not too clean (dontlook at the kitchen!), but we always had spectacularfood and were never sick. Being helped by your tourguide is a must here - language problems and

At-a-glance travel guide

USEFUL TIPS FOR YOUR EXPEDITIONSOME SIMPLE, COMMON SENSE, FIELD-TESTED ADVICE AND INFORMATION TO MAKE THE BEST OUT OF YOUR TRIP AND TO AVOID HASSLES, WORRIES AND PROBLEMS

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choosing exotic dishes in the small restaurants forlocals can be pretty daunting. Plus youll pay a lotmore if youre on your own.

LANGUAGE: Malay and English everywhere, butoutside of the big towns - when dealing with countryfolk or the aboriginal Orang Asli - problems mightoccur if you dont speak Chinese or a local dialect.Having an experienced bilingual local guide with youis strongly advised, especially when venturing beyondthe normal tourist circuit - as youll be doing.

WORRIES: Mosquitoes and other rainforest pests cancarry diseases or provoke severe allergic reactions, soits always better to use repellants. Leeches areomnipresent, messy and in the thousands, but luckilyharmless. Forest hiking can be seriously dangerous, sowatch your feet as its all too easy to sprain an ankle orworse. Any small wounds or scratches suffered in theforest must immediately be disinfected and kept understrict observation to avoid serious consequences. Withluck, one will be dealing with potentially lethal venomous

snakes, so a degree of caution is highly recommendedat all times. These are pristine, untouched highlandrainforests where very dangerous animals are still found- so never, repeat never, go hiking on your own.

HEALTH: Theres always the possibility of catchingmalaria or dengue or something else but equallyunpleasant, and one has to be fatalistic with such thingswhen going to the forest in the tropics. Food isreasonably safe if just cooked and sizzling hot -particularly in Chinese restaurants - but avoid drinkingtap water and fresh uncooked vegetables. The lack ofheating in the hotels of the Camerons can beuncomfortable (the five-star ones have fireplaces), andpeople unused to damp conditions can certainly catcha bad cold there. Tioman is very hot and humid andmosquitoes are prevalent on the island during the wetseason, especially inside the forest.

CLIMATE: Strictly tropical - both montane (as in theCamerons, very warm during the day but with coldnights) and lowland (as in Tioman, which is very warm

24 hours a day). During the wet season - which is thebest time to find reptiles and insects - torrentialdownpours can be expected on a daily basis, oftenlasting several hours and causing dangerous floods.

BESIDES: Besides fascinating wildlife and stunningnatural landscapes, the area - as most of Malaysia ingeneral - has very little to offer regarding art or culture.Towns of the Cameron Highlands - such as Brinchangor Tanah Rata - are little more than artificial tourist trapsreplete with hundreds of restaurants, coffee-shops andvarious eateries surrounded by slightly grotesque,embarassing recreations of Tudor England which arehowever much loved by the local tourists. If your interestlies in strawberry farms or vegetable street markets thenyoull be having the time of your life, but do not expectto see much or anything at all in the way of art, cultureor even traditional ways of life. Tioman is even worse,as it lives off seasonal tourists and it hibernates the wetseason away when nobody comes. Nothing there, noteven traditional village life or local folklore - in factits a rather closed, not too friendly community. .

Stunning landscapes, great wildlife and wonderful food

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theTrail

HEREGOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE

BIALOWIEZA NATIONAL PARK

IN THE HALLS OF THE BISON KING

On

BIALOWIEZA NATIONAL PARK

IN THE HALLS OF THE BISON KINGHiking deep in the heart of Polands primeval forest in search of the fabled European Bison

Hiking deep in the heart of Polands primeval forest in search of the fabled European Bison

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Rottingundisturbed fordecades on theforest floor,ancient andgigantic treetrunks are slowlycolonized byfungi andmosses, slowlyblending with thelandscape andreturning to thegreat matrix ofthe forest. This isNature at work -almost impossibleto see elsewherein todays highlyindustrializedEurope.

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here are ghosts in the forest.There are ghosts, and banshees, andspirits, and goblins. They hide and restand sleep during the day, when thegreat halls and cloisters of the forestare silent and empty, and one walks inthe sun. But with dusk and twilight, theycome. They come with the thick whitefog, which rolls like a wave from thedarkness of the treeline, creeping onthe meadows and flooding the forestclearings like a milky tide. They comewith the full moon, shining bright up inthe sapphire ice-cold blue sky, hidingbehind the waving, pointed tips of thespruces and birches. They scurry in theundergrowth, running on all fours,dark and irsute, grunting harshly. Theybellow with prehistoric echoes frombehind the curtain of trees, a soundJurassic which smells of ages gonepast, of melancholy and fury. Theyhobble across the trail, low and fast,with a creepy undulating motion pausing only for the briefest of pausesto turn, flashing their yellow chest, tolook at you and then disappear amongthe ferns and nettles once more. Theyswim in the forest ponds, waterrippling in silver waves under themoon, playfully diving and quicklydisappearing under the surface. Somesay they know better, and call themwild boars foraging for mushroomsand acorns, and Red deer in rutchallenging their rivals, pine martens

on the prowl and beavers buildingtheir dams but the doubt stays withus, as Bialowiezas celebrated forest isa place of mystery, of brief glimpses,of eerie sounds, of half-forgottenmemories and primordial suggestions.Located at Polands northeasternfrontier, bordering with Belarus, this isEuropes last standing primeval forest a vast sanctuary of gigantic oaks,linden and ash, an impenetrabilefortress of thick alder, maple andhornbeam, a rampart of spruce, birchand Scottish pine which despite havingbeen ravaged by man on severaloccasions still retains its unique,ageless appeal. Walking among itsimmense trees, dwarfed by the greengiants soaring up in the sky, dodginggigantic tree trunks which have beenrotting for decades in the ankle-deepmoss, one feels what the Romanlegionnaires must have felt when theyfirst crossed the Alps and entered whatwas then wild, forbidding, untouchedcontinental Europe. The air is fresh andclean, and yet heavy with coolmoisture: the forest acts like animmense sponge its floor is moreoften than not a mushy, soaked,saturated bog. The smell of cooltemperate forests, that unmistakablywoody, aromatic smell of pine needles,peaty soil and wet mushroomspervades every corner of thesanctuary. The suns rays slant here

T TEXT BY ANDREA FERRARIPHOTOS BY ANDREA & ANTONELLA FERRARI


A massive Zubror EuropeanBison Bisonbonasus - alsoknown by itsGerman name ofWisent, this is thelast of the greatEuropeanungulates ofantiquity. Largebulls such as thisone may be twometers tall andweigh one ton -an imposing andhumbling sight.

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Ancient trees proudly rising like temple pillars towards the sun

Bialowiezasforest landscapescan often beextraordinarilybeautiful,especially inautumn. Naturalwoodlandregeneration isallowed andstrictly monitoredin several sitesinside theNational Park.

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and there, like through a cathedralsstained glass window, painting goldenpatches on the open, leaf-litteredground among the trees. And there issilence everywhere a silence borneof aeons long past, that deep,dizzying silence which only wilduntouched natural places cangenerate, and which the soft buzz ofbees and the occasional chirping of ahidden bird can only make even moreintimidating. And then of course,above all and all-important, there is thegreat dark god of the forest, theancient lord of Bialowieza. Enormousand nimble, powerful and silent,dangerous and shy like all sylvandeities of antiquity, its hornedenormous head one readily imaginesstanding on the sweaty, grimyshoulders of a prehistoric shaman, theEuropean bison inhabits the deepestrecesses of the primeval forest like agreat spirit, silently appearing nowand then - a monstrous dark shadow revealing itself in brief stunningglimpses among the pale, naked treetrunks. We stalk it for hours and days,moving like ghosts among the thickbranches, obsessively checkingfootprints and droppings, ambushing itat dawn and dusk, now and thencrawling on our bellies, communicatingin gestures, and when we finallyapproach it closely, hearts thumping inour chests from excitement andtrepidation, the huge bull watches usgravely and intently its enormous


A common or grass frogRana temporaria sits

unperturbed by its pond in themiddle of the forest.

Bialowiezas moist forestundergrowth habitat

is home to a great number of amphibians.

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One of the mosttypical sights ofBialowiezasextraordinaryenvironment - aseasonal bogpond in marshy,spongy ground.Alder, spruce,ash andhornbeam thrivein this habitat.

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head and chest framed among thetrees, its wild eyes flickering in thedarkness of its brow, an image of heart-shaking power and raw wildernessemerging from the ancient legends ofCentral Europe. A shiver runs down ourbacks as we, in mute amazement,kneel in admiration and respect in frontof the Zubr, the wild European Bison,the last great survivor of a gloriouspast, the true King of Bialowieza. Thena brief snort, a muted thumping ofhooves, and in a dark flash the savagespirit of the forest vanishes once more.

A COMPLEX TEXTURE OF INTERLACEDENVIRONMENTS

As National Parks go, Bialowieza issomewhat an enigma, as the protectedarea encompasses an enormousvariety of different environments andhabitats, ranging from populated andcultivated areas to relatively newforests, and from marshes andriverbanks to the core area or StrictReserve. This might prove a littleconfusing at first, since most animalsightings actually take place outside thecore area and occasionally onclearings and meadows close tohuman settlements, while the StrictReserve which is cut by the twobranches of the Narewka river - offersthe most spectacular views of a pristineEuropean forest one can imagine, withtrees which can be 700 years old and

A typical EuropeanBison encounter in the forest - despitetheir enormous sizeand weight, theseungulates can movenimbly and silentlyamong the thick treesof Bialowieza.Approaching themclosely requirescaution, stealth,patience and goodcamouflage.

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50 meters tall. To further confuse first-time visitors, the so-called Bialowiezaforest complex covers a cross-borderarea of almost 1600 square kilometers,of which about 45% is in Poland and55% lies instead in Belarus, with theresult that this latter part is virtually off-limits for visitors. In fact, while walkingthere it is not uncommon to be stoppedby border patrols and have onesdocuments carefully checked.Accomodation and great, comfortingfood are readily available in a varietyof options and in a number of smallhamlets and villages, from lovelyintimate hotels to quaint and verycomfortable private homes traditionallybuilt in wood, but another perplexingaspect of the current state of things isthat wildlife photographers and naturelovers visiting the area duringSeptember and October - as we havedone - have to share sighting sites andforest trails with large numbers ofmushroom pickers (collecting wildmushrooms, freely permitted insideNational Parks, is a much-lovedpastime in Poland) and, moreworringly, with big-game hunterscoming from all over Europe. It can beextremely disconcer ting andoccasionally bothersome having toshare the breakfast table with a groupof bragging shooters carrying high-powered, scope-equipped rifles andnot-so casually laying down a freshlystripped set of Red deer antlers fromlast nights kill...quite possibly the same

A splendid Bison bonasus bull in its prime -which, thanks to our guide Lukaszs tirelesstracking, we were lucky enough to sight at twilightin a forest clearing. It took us a long, slow crawl onour bellies in the wet grass to approach him thisclose - a uniquely rewarding opportunity even if bythen the very low light levels forced us to raise ourcamera settings to 1600 ISO, something we wouldnever do in normal circumstances.


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A freezing, wind-swept new day dawnson the meadowsbordering the forest -such sites usually offerthe best chances tosight Red deer in rutand small Bison herds.

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animal which was the majestic subjectof your latest photo (thankfully, theyrenot allowed to shoot Bison only Reddeer, wild boar and Roe deer). In fact,the clash between time-honored localtraditions such as hunting (includingpoaching) and more enlightened onessuch as wildlife viewing andphotographing is quite apparenteverywhere what we naively took atfirst sight as wildlife viewing towers,standing on every forest clearing, arein fact shooting hides for hunters, andsurprisingly, it is the hunting communityplus the Polish casual weekend touristswhich seem to represent the bulk of the

visitors to the Park, rather than wildlifephotographers and nature lovers fromthe rest of Europe althoughbirdwatchers in springtime are anotable exception. Most of the wild orsemi-wild area outside of the StrictReserve (in which hunting is obviouslynot allowed) is also subject to a strictforest management, as trees areregularly felled for commercial timber another surprising aspect one wouldnot expect in a National Park. Despitethese minor and rather curious atleast to us details, BialowiezaNational Park appears in any case tobe a splendidly managed, very well

organized and carefully protectednature reserve a shining example ofwilderness preservation to the rest ofthe world. Easily reached from all ofcorners of Europe it is located only afew hours drive from WarsawsChopin International Airport itcertainly represents one of the OldContinents most interestingdestinations for wildlife photographersand nature lovers its safe, accessible,easily explored and stunninglybeautiful. Its environment features avery complex and rather interestinggeological and botanical history itsbasically a marshy mosaic of several

Birches inautumn foliageand cobweb-draped longgrasses standtransfixed in theicy grip of afreezing newdawn - in a fewminutes fog willgive way to thesuns rays.


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A fully matureRed deer Cervuselaphus stag - a seven or eightpointer judging byits splendid set ofantlers - rests by aforest clearing inthe late afternoonswarm light.Autumn is rut timefor this species -antlers will be shedsoon to be grownback next year.

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exceedingly difficult (dont let yourselfbe fooled - most images of theBialowieza mammals available todayhave been in fact taken in the so-calledBison Reserve, an admittedly very nicezoo where several animals are kept inlarge, somewhat natural - lookingfenced enclosures. Some photos takenthere look wonderful, but its not thesame thing as getting them in the wild,obviously). At least 44 mammal speciesare represented in the National Parkgrounds a number without equals inEurope. Most are moderately- to small-sized (foxes, beavers, hares, minks,badgers, raccoon dogs, pine martens,mice, voles), extremely rare and wary(wolf, lynx) or present in very smallnumbers (less than 30 Elk live in thePark), but European bison now strictlyprotected and an icon of modernPoland - have made a successfulcomeback after being completelywiped out in the wild at the end ofWorld War One: the currentpopulation of 300 now residing inBialowieza descends from the 12specimens which had survived incaptivity, with the first captive-bredindividuals having been released in thewild in 1956. Red deer and wild boarhave also been successful and arepresent in large numbers. Seeing these- not to mention being able tophotograph them with some measure ofsuccess - requires an enormous amountof patience and dedication, a gooddegree of luck and above all the skills of

different kinds of forests, includingspruce and Scottish pine woods,temperate, deciduous oak, linden andhornbeam mixed forest, alder bogforest and spruce bog forest, with birchwoods, open meadows and riverbankreed beds thrown in for good measure- but the details can be too complex (orboring) for the non-botanist layman: foran in-depth, exhaustive description ofthe different environments found in thearea and their history we suggestreading The Nature Guide to theBialowieza primeval forest Poland,published by Crossbill Guides.

SECRETIVE DWELLERSOF THE ANCIENT FOREST

Given its consolidated (and most of thetimes rather troubled) interaction withman and his intruding activities, thefauna of Bialowieza is predictablywary and very diff icult to see -European wildlife, alas, has little toshare with its tropical counterpartsregarding numbers, population densityor confidence, and those hoping foreasy, close views of the large mammals- European bison, Red deer, Roe deer,wild boar...not to mention wolf andlynx - are in for a huge disappointment(even if, as ever, there are the luckyexceptions!). Sightings, when theyoccur, can also be frustratingly brief often lasting only a few seconds orfrom a great distance, so taking goodshots of the large mammals can be


A stunningEuropean BisonBison bonasus bull -it always comes as a surprisediscovering that an animal of suchenormous size andweight can easilyjump across a 3meter wide streamor over a 2 meterobstacle from astanding position.Normally shy andpeaceful, bulls canbecome dangerousduring rut, whilefemales willpromptly charge humans ifseparated fromtheir calves. Bisoncan live up to 27years in the wild.

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A scenic boglandscape in theheart of the forest.Such quiet,peaceful cornersoffer wonderfulphoto opportunitiesto visitors,particularly inspring and autumnwhen colors are attheir most vibrant.

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a seriously motivated, experiencedwildl i fe guide. We have beenexceptionally lucky in this respecthaving secured the services of LukaszMazurek, the founder and owner ofWildPoland.com and author of thehighly recommended and exhaustiveWildPoland Bialowieza and BiebrzaSite Guides - an enthusiastic, highlymotivated, exceptionally informativeyoung man who, besides being a verypleasant companion, was able tosuccessfully track down our warysubjects - thanks in no small measure tohis relentless obstination in making ushappy. Make no mistake, the animalsare there - but it takes a lot ofexperience in the field to find them inthe right place and at the right time, sothe contribution of a local experiencedguide is absolutely essential if one doesnot want to rely on luck alone or besorely disappointed, and we can safelyrecommend Lukasz and his small buthighly professional company for acustom-designed trip.

THERE IS A RIGHT TIMEAND A RIGHT PLACE

FOR EVERYTHINGDifferent periods of the yearpredictably present differentopportunities - many interesting birdspecies and mixed bison herds areeasier to see in spring and summer (butthen the forest foliage is thick anduniformly green), autumn is remarkablygood for colors, mushrooms, lone

Flamed by the nearing ofautumn, maple and hornbeamleaves drift on the surface of a

forest puddle. Soon theyll be partagain of the never-ending cycle ofdeath and regeneration so evident

everywhere in Bialowieza.


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Approachingbison in thethickly forestedhabitat they livein usually meansslowly andsilentlynegotiating soft,uneven, mossyground and atangle of twigsand branches tobe able to get agood field ofview. Its noteasy - but highlyrewarding, evenif the shot isflawed or not asgood as hoped.

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bison bulls and rutting Red deer, winteroffers spectacular snowy landscapesand allows good views of bisonfeeding at specially appointedhaystacks (at minus 30C) - but do notbe mistaken, time (at least a full week)and stamina are always required tohave some reasonable chances ofsuccess. Theres a lot of walking to beexpected (from 8 to 15 kilometers aday, and that can be quite long forphotographers carrying 12 kilogramsof equipment on their back, as we do),but luckily the forest floor is very openand flat - not like in the tropics! - andthe trails are immaculately maintained,so this can actually be very pleasant;light levels inside the forest itself,however, are very low and oftenproblematic even during the day, andthat may complicate matters as mostsightings of large mammals can behoped for just before sunrise (from5am to 6 am) or in the late afternoon(from 5pm to 6pm), at least in autumn.Using a normal tripod for wildlifephotography here is out of thequestion, as most encounters are tooshort to allow setting up one, so theonly other option is raising the ISOvalues and keeping ones handssteady - youl l need those, as a

400mm lens is the absolute minimumrequired. The other solution - adoptedby several dedicated and hard-working professionals - requires settingup a one-person hide by one of thetrail crossroads and sit there all daylong with a hot coffee thermos, a longlens and a tripod-mounted camera,from dawn to dusk, hoping for somefine specimen to show up. They usuallydo, sooner or later - but that is not ouridea of enjoying ourselves or enjoyingthe forest. Bird life is exceptionallyabundant in spring (Bialowieza is awoodpeckers paradise with all butone of European species represented,including the rare Three-toedwoodpecker, and it hosts eight out often Central European owl species,including the diminutive Pygmy Owl)but once again seeing is one thing -European birdwatchers flock in largegroups to Bialowieza every year! - andtaking good pictures is another, as thedark, sun-dappled forest environmentusually frustrates the fast focusingwhich bird photography requires.There are no dangerous animals inBialowieza, and those potentially so(bison, wild boar, wolves) keep wellclear of humans, so walking is safe atall times - but mosquitoes can be very

A rare sight - a bachelor bullgrazing at sunset in a forest clearing.The small photo atright gives a goodidea of how closeone can get - with a good dose of caution - to sucha magnificentanimal.


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Bright greenduckweed,colorful deadleaves and aclear blueautumn skyreflected in aquiet forest bog - a few simpleelements whichconspire increating imagesof great appealand naturalbeauty.

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numerous and bothersome in warmweather, and ticks are very common inthe tall grasses. These latter blood-sucking parasites are not dangerousper se, but they can occasionallytransmit Lymes disease - which can bevery serious if not treated in time - andso it is very advisable to wear longsleeves and trousers, tucking them intosocks, and check well every part of thebody in the evening. If the relative (orrather, the apparent) scarcity of largeanimals can be very frustrating to theuninitiated, the methodical, carefulobservation of the forest floor isinstead exceptionally rewarding (inSeptember and October the woodsare literally alive with thousands ofexquisitely camouflaged Grass frogsRana temporaria and millions ofcolorful, strangely-shaped fungi of allsorts and sizes), so carrying a macro

A flaming sunriseheralds the comingof a new day onBialowiezasancient forests -many-hued, colorfuldawns and sunsetsat these latitudesoften rival thoseusually admired at the tropics.


More colors fromthe autumnal palette- from left, maple,oak and hornbeamleaves; hornbeamand spindle treefoliage; and theunmistakably glassy,bright red berries of guelder rose.

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or wide-macro set up is obviouslyrecommended to all. And then ofcourse there are the spectacularlandscapes of Bialowieza - openmeadows and luminous forestclearings, tree trunk shapes andbark tex tures , so lemn fores tpanoramas, peaceful beaver ponds,the black still pools of peat bogs -which truly have few or no rivals atall in the rest of Europe. Colors inautumn can be absolutely stunningand a photographers dream - the coolblue-green of spruces, the goldenleaves and silver-white trunks ofbirches, the flaming red and orangesof Norway maples, the bright yellowof hornbeam, the fluorescent vermilionand fuchsia of fruiting Splindle trees allblend harmoniously in a glorious anduniquely European tapestry. There aremoments - especially at dawn - whenthe delicate, exquisite beauty of thesurrounding ladscape, still cloaked inmist, is truly overwhelming. It is thenthat the secret, mysterious essence ofBialowieza is finally revealed to thosehumble enough to watch and learn.Silently standing in the early morningsfrost, the pilgrim hushes in awe,transfixed by natures epiphany, asfrom the fog shrouding the meadowsan electric vibration of cold hues rises,evoked by the first, streaming rays ofthe rising sun: that shimmering,shivering, magical curtain whichshelters now and forever, like in anancient Slavic fable, the mystery of theHalls of the Bison King. .

Backlit by the early morning sun, dry tallgrasses sway in the breeze on a forestclearing. Such habitats offer excellentopportunities to sight raptors and otherbirds and small mammals.

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The Common toad Bufo bufois often encountered during the day if the weather has beenwet - given the opportunity, this robust and well-camouflagedamphibian will not hesitate to prey on large insects, reptiles,frogs and even small mammals.

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Guidedexcursions insidethe Strict Reserveoffer stunningphotographicopportunities tovisitors, even ifactual animalsightings can berare. The trailsrun betweenscenic alder bogforests andimposing oak,linden andhornbeam mixedwoods, wheresome trees canbe 50 meters tall- that is rainforestsize, unheard ofelsewhere inEurope today.

More details from the universe ofBialowiezas forest - a mushroom colony,the heavily fissured bark of an ancienttree, a clump of ferns in the undergrowth.

72More impressions from

Bialowieza: grasses waving in thegolden afternoon sun (far left), a

Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapastriata perching on the woodenfence of a country cottage, an

unidentified species of field mousesurprised in the forest (below).

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During September and October - if the weather has been favorable - Bialowieza is trasformed in a magical kingdom of mushrooms, with an overwhelming number and variety of fungi growing literally everywhere.

Feared by all andpersecuted by many, wary and endangered, the European wolf Canislupus lupus lives in smallpacks and is very rarelysighted in the forests of Bialowieza. Antonellashand besides the footprintfreshly left by a large wolf gives a good idea of the size of the specimen - thisAlpha male might very well weigh more than 70kgs. Tracks left by this highlysociable and mysteriouspredator are very often observed along the trails which criss-cross the forest.

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Autumn lighting and foliage in Bialowieza offer truly superb

opportunities for landscapephotographers - here the long

meadow grasses, immersed in acool golden glow, acquire an

almost theatrical quality.

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A common or grass frog Ranatemporaria on the forest floor. At theselatitudes this species can still be quiteactive at very low temperatures - nearing0C - and at a remarkable distance fromstreams and ponds.

Looking like a dead leaf but ready to jump away at a moments notice

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More examplesof the stunningvariety andquantity ofmushroom speciesfound inBialowieza duringSeptember andOctober. Thebright livery of theToadstool or FlyAgaric Amanitamuscaria (right)advertises itshallucinogenicand potentiallydeadly properties.

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Wild boars Susscrofa are possiblysome of the mosteasily observedlarge animals in the Bialowiezaforest. Wary,intelligent andalert, oftenforaging in groups,these relatives of the domestic pigwill occasionallycharge intruders -with very scary and potentiallydangerousconsequences, as their tubularsnout conceals a pair of curved,razor-sharp tusks,particularlydeveloped in males.

79The fiery autumn

foliage of Norwaymaple is instantlyrecognized - single Acer platanoidestrees stand out at a great distance.

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Bialowieza NP Mushroom Heaven BisonCLICK ON THE IMAGES AND WATCH

THREE SHORT VIDEOS ON SOME OF

BIALOWIEZAS MOSTSPECTACULAR NATURAL

HIGHLIGHTS

ANIMA MUNDI

ON

The sun sets in a fierydisplay - easternEuropean skies have aspecial quality to themwhich is rather uniquein our experience, oftenoffering spectacularcloud formations whichare seldom observedfurther west.

Colors - from the technicoloredfoliage of theautumn forest tothe leaves of afern burnished bythe frost, to the softhues of a rainbowgloriously risingabove the forestafter a rain squall.

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The suns rays,filtering and scythingfrom the tree canopyabove, often increaseones sensation ofentering a cathedralor a temple - ancientforests such as thisone have a distinctlymysthical quality.

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A variety ofspecies, colorsand habitats. Top left, a juvenileCommon toadBufo bufo; bottomleft, a few brightlycolored Norwaymaple leavesstand out on theforest floor; right,the stunningchange brought toa football-fieldsized stretch offorest by a familyof beavers - whichfirst dammed asmall brook andthen flooded it,transforming it intoa veritable lake.

84The forest canopy

stretches above. Trees in Bialowiezacan reach a very oldage and a veryremarkable height:oak trees Quercusrobur (40 meters),linden Tilia cordata(40 meters) and AshFraxinus excelsior(40 meters) are someof the tallest species.The record however belongs to the Norway spruce Picea abieswhich can reach aheight of 57 meters.

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The European orEurasian lynx Lynxlynx is - togetherwith the wolf - thetop predator of theBialowieza forest.Nickamed theSilver Ghost of theForest for itswariness, thisstealthy, cunningfeline is veryrarely observedand even less oftenphotographed inthe wild. No morethan 200individuals of thisvery secretivespecies arepresent in Polandat the moment,even if its arealstretches fromwestern Europe to Siberia.

The cold stare of the silver ghost of the forest

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The warm, golden lightof a late autumn afternoonlends a distinctly magicalquality to this simple forestlandscape - those roundedwillow bushes, tall sprucesand sharply defined birchtrees might very well serveas a Pre-raphaelite set toMozarts Magic Flute.

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An old, massive bison bull strides fearlessly andpurposefully towards us - a good reminder of manspuniness when facing Nature. Saved by man at literally the last minute by a man-induced extinction, thisspectacular species now stands as a symbol - stillendangered, yes, but hopefully recovering - of what canand must be done to preserve our natural heritage.

A living symbol of Europes endangered natural heritage

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ROUTE: Your plane will land at Chopin WarsawInternational Airport, a thoroughly modern and wellorganized facility. From there its a comfortable five-hour car drive due north-east on good, well-maintained roads to your destination, BialowiezaNational Park, close to the border with Belarus.

MEANS OF TRANSPORT: You might rent a car inWarsaw and drive yourself but we do not adviseyou to - save yourself the trouble and have the triporganized by a guide who is familiar with the routesand the best wildlife viewing spots. Once in the Parkyou will have to drive for short distances and thenwalk - a lot - on very easy, perfectly maintainedforest trails. Many visitors also rent bycicles, whichare available at every lodge - an excellent and

enjoyable choice but not an easy or comfortableone for equipment-laden wildlife photographers.

CURRENCY: Its advisable to change ones owncurrency in the local one (Polish Zloty) upon arrivalin Warsaw to save loss of valuable time looking forsmall local bank branches later on.

ACCOMODATION: Pick your choice frombeautiful, top-class hotels to simple, family-stylecottages. Theres a bit for everybody, so it reallydepends on your preferences. We elected to stay insmall, cozy family-run wooden cottages to have areal taste of local life and traditional cuisine and didnot regret it. Even basic, unexpensive accomodationis usually very clean and well heated.

FOOD: Fantastic! Heavy and abundant stuff due tothe climate - plenty of smoked and cured pork,venison, herring, cabbage, pickles and preservedfruit. Surprisingly, little or no beef is consumedlocally. Beware - this isnt an ideal destination forstrict vegetarians! Dont miss pirogi (stuffeddumplings), the local bortsch (the celebrated easterneuropean red beet and sour cream soup) and Polishkompot, a brew of dried fruit and hot water whichis both warming and refreshing - and which goessurprisingly well with the hearty food of the area.

LANGUAGE: Polish - obviously - and someGerman and Russian. Very little or no English at allis spoken in eastern Poland - one more reason tohave a guide you can communicate with along.

USEFUL TIPS FOR YOUR EXPEDITIONSOME SIMPLE, COMMON SENSE, FIELD-TESTED ADVICE AND INFORMATION TO MAKE THE BEST OUT OF YOUR TRIP AND TO AVOID HASSLES, WORRIES AND PROBLEMS

At-a-glance travel guide

COUNTRY OF DESTINATION: POLAND

89

CLIMATE: Continental European - reasonablywarm summers, cool mid-seasons, freezing winterswith lots of snow. Can be very cold at dawn anddusk - dress in layers. Good, well worn-in hikingboots and rubber wellingtons are a must as theresa lot of marshy, boggy terrain in the woods. Forestphotography is not easy due to prevalent low lightconditions and lots of obstacles (branches, twigs,leaves) between you and your subject.

BESIDES: Besides the wildlife, Poland offers allthe extraordinary attractions of one of the greatcradles of European culture. Local hamlets in thenorth-eastern area provide interesting photoopportunities with their colorful wooden houses,and in Tykocin, nearby Bialowieza, one should notmiss visiting the baroque Synagogue Bejt ha-

Kneset ha-Godol, built in 1642. It will offer theopportunity for some sombre reflections aboutsome of the Countrys darkest moments in historyas the Jewish population of Tykocin - numbering2.000 - was slaughtered en masse by the Nazis on25-26 August 1941. Then of course theres therebuilt center of old Warsaw - razed to the groundduring the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1944 andsubsequent ly rebui l t br ick upon brick withspectacular results - which one should not missvisiting before flying back home at the end of thetrip. Poland offers many other exceptionallybeautiful, not-to-be missed destinations - such as thehistorically and artistically significant Krakow, ajewel of a city - which however lie beyond thescope of this guide. For art, architecture and musiclovers it is a destination of a lifetime. .

WORRIES: None. Locals are very decent, private,reasonably friendly country folk. Crime is almostnon-existent. Food and drink are absolutely safe.Trails are easy to follow and well marked, there areno seriously dangerous animals (well, dont disturbBison or Wild boar!) and it is rare not to meet otherhikers in the forest anyway. Mosquitoes can be realpests in season however, and ticks are a seriousliability, so bring some good repellant as theresnone available locally.

HEALTH: No worries worth mentioning except therisk of catching Lymes diseases if bitten by a carriertick. If the bite mark shows a white circle have itinspected by your doctor as soon as possible -Lymes disease is easily cured but can have veryserious consequences if left untreated.

A treasure trove of European history, art and culture

IF YOU ONLY SAW WHAT YOU WANTED, YOU PROBABLY MISSED A LOT - www.wildpoland.com

Wildlife watching and photography in unscathed Eastern Europe

Huge resources on where to watch wildlife in Eastern Poland

Large variety of nature watching trips

Extremely detailed Site Guides for visiting on your own

Wildlife watching and photography in unscathed Eastern Europe

ADVERTISEMENT

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Everybody loves the cute and colorful clownfish, a tropical symbiont which findssafety among the deadly venomous tentacles of its host

Spotlight

A Spine-cheekAnemonefishPremnasbiaculeatussnugglingamong thetentacles of aLightbulb seaanemoneEntacmaeaquadricolor, itsexclusive host.Females of thisspecies - as theone pictured -are muchlarger and lessbrightlycolored thanthe males.

HEREGOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE

ADORABLE CLOWNS OF THE SEA

ANEMONE FISHADORABLE CLOWNS OF THE SEA

ANEMONE FISH

91

A Black-footedAnemonefishAmphiprion

nigripes sheltersbetween two

large anemones in the Maldives.

Notice the shallow,sunlit, current-swept

environment which is typical of

this genus and its symbiont hosts.

92

With itssharplybanded black,white andbright orangelivery, theWesternClownAnemonefishAmphiprionocellaris isperhaps theepitome of thisgroup ofcolorful, activefish. Hundredsof thousandsof individualsbelonging tothis speciesare capturedannually forthe aquariumtrade, oftenmeeting a veryuncertainfuture.

Safely snuggling in the deadly embraceof its velvety host

e al l know and loveclownfish. Also commonly known asanemonefish - a name which suitsthem rather more aptly - these smalland colorful reef denizens belong tothe very important and large family ofthe Pomacentridae, numbering agrand total of more than 300 speciesand which they share with other verycommon, shallow-water fish such asdamselfishes. Counting more than tendifferent species in Indo-Pacificwaters, clownfish are widelyregarded as easily approachable if alitt le pesky camera subjects andadorable (but presumably ratherunwilling) aquarium guests. In fact,theyre so pretty its easy loving themto death (or to near extinction) as italmost happened several years agowhen the commercial success of theDisney/Pixar animated movie FindingNemo prompted hundreds ofthousands of kids worldwide to begfor one - with the dire result that asmany were cyanide- or net-fished outof the sea only to end up down toiletdrains when the little brats and theirunknowing parents found out thatcaring for them was not really as easyas expected.In nature theyre well known for beingsymbionts - living in relative harmonytogether with another completelydifferent marine organism, both ofthem getting mutual benefits from therelationship. In this case, the otherorganism is quite unique - the deadlyvenomous sea anemone, a beautiful

and often gaudily colorful livingcarpet of toxic tentacles rising from avelvety, fleshy foot, closely relatedboth to corals and to jellyfish. Everysingle sticky tentacle of this soft-bodied creature is quite capable ofinjecting a deadly dose of toxins inthe body of the unfortunate organismtouching it (that is how anemones gettheir food by the way) through anumber of microscopic needlesshooting on contact. Any creatureliving in the cuddly embrace of such aterrifying host would be quite safefrom hungry predators - so how doclownfish avoid getting paralyzedand eaten by the anemone? It seemsthey just trick it in believing theyrepart of itself - gradually and dailywriggling among its tentacles withgreat care since theyre very young,they absorb its surface identity inthe layer of mucus which covers theirbodies: after some time, the toxictentacles of the anemone do not reactanymore to the touch of the clownfish,since they do not recognize it as apotential prey item. Strip a clownfishof i ts protect ive layer of mucushowever, and the little cunning fellowwill be instantaneously paralyzed andeaten by the anemone like any otherfish. No wonder the little pugnaciousclownfish wil l rise up to anapproaching divers face, nibblingferociously at noses, ears and probingfingers, bravely defending their turf atthe sl ightest suggestion ofencroachment! And yes - as funny as

W TEXT BY ANDREA FERRARIPHOTOS BY ANDREA & ANTONELLA FERRARI


93

A Western ClownAnemonefish Amphiprion

ocellaris wriggling among thetentacles of its venomous host -

its rounded facial featuresscreaming cuteness

and cuddliness to most first-time viewers.

94

it may sound, being nibbled by anangry clownfish defending i tsinvestment can occasionally bestar tling - it doesnt hurt, but itsdefinitely felt, even through glovedhands. On the other hand, weunderstand how clownfish profit bytheir l i felong association withanemones, but its not really alwaysclear what sort of advantage theanemone itself gets from its little hosts.It is true that they will strenuouslydefend it from intruders, but thatwould seem more a defense of theirown territory than of the anemoneitself, and anyway such a noxiouscreature is per fect ly capable ofdefending i tsel f (one can seehundreds of anemones on a reefwithout a single clownfish in them,and yet theyre all perfectly healthy).And clownfish are not the only ones totake advantage of the anemonestoxicity, as the frequent presence ofporcelain crabs and several species ofshrimp on their mantle can readily attest.

SHOOTING THE CLOWN

The technicolored show offered by afamily of little clownfish comicallywriggling inside a colorful anemone isjust too typical of a reef scene to beignored. Theyre commonly encounteredin shallow, well-lit areas of the reef, oftenon coral rubble stretches which aresubject to strong currents - in the spotsoffering their almost completely staticanemone hosts the best feedingopportunities. As for clownfishthemselves being good camera subjects,thats open to debate. They certainlylook great but we find them quiteobnoxious and generally hysterical,since they never stop swimming to andfro for a second, and trying to get agood snapshot of one is not the simplestof toils. In fact, one (very good and fieldtested) theory suggests to pre-focuswhere youd like them most to be ontheir anemones mantle and then clickwhen they enter it by pure chance.Sooner or later it must happen! .

Tiny pugnacious lords of their own little turf in the reef world

The BridledAnemonefishAmphiprionfrenatus (farleft) and therather moredelicatelynuanced PinkAnemonefishAmphiprionperideraion(left) arecommonlyfound on mostCentral andWestern Indo-Pacific coralreefs. Noticethe fleshytexture andchromaticvariationsshown by theiranemone host.

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A small maleSpine-cheekAnemonefishPremnasbiaculeatusemerges from thepsychedelicmaze of thelightbulb-shapedtentacles of itsexclusive host,the anemoneEntacmaeaquadricolor.No matterhow small, allAnemonefishwill alwaysstrenuouslydefend theirterritory andtheir host.

96

97

A gigantic colonyof what appears to be

a local yellow-tailedvariety of Amphiprion

melanopus covers an area of several

square meters in shallow water. RajaAmpat, West Papua.

Clockwise:top left, maleSpine-cheekAnemonefishPremnasbiaculeatus,Central Indo-Pacific; left,WesternAnemonefishAmphiprionocellaris,Central Indo-Pacific;bottom, Black-footedAnemonefishAmphiprionnigripes,Indian Ocean,with itsretractedanemone;bottom left,PandaAnemonefishAmphyprionpolymnus,Central Indo-Pacific, theonly species of this genuscommonlyobserved onsilty habitats,well awayfrom coralreefs.

Many variationson one theme - but alwaysthe same appeal

98

99

A very largecolony of Two-

banded AnemonefishAmphiprion bicinctus.

This is the onlyspecies of clownfish

found in the Red Sea,where it can often be

seen in colonies ofseveral hundred

individuals shelteringon living carpets

made of closely -setsea anemones.

The Adorable AnemonefishCLICK ON THE IMAGE

AND WATCH A SHORT VIDEO

ON THE LIFE AND HABITS OF CLOWNFISH IN THEIR

CORAL REEF HABITAT

ANIMA MUNDI

ON

100

These ClarksAnemonefishAmphiprionclarkii,photographedin the Sulu Seaoff the coast ofBorneo, looksomewhat lessendearingthan theaverageclownfish - is it the toothyscowl or theconvictstripes? Thecuteness factorinherent in allanemonefishbelies in facttheir severelypugnaciousnature.

These stripes tell a message - dont trespassor youll get it from us!

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Reef life at its vibrant,dazzling, technicoloredbest - with the ubiquitousclownfish and theirswaying sea anemonehosts playing anindispensable part inthe picture, both visuallyand ecologically.

102

Amazing AmazoniaPPoorrttffoolliiooOOne mans love story with the Amazon Basin and its elusive apex predator, the endangered Jaguar, has resulted in a collection of truly stunning images. Anima Mundis first Guest Wildlife Photographer shares them with us

Roberto Fabbri: AWildlife Photographer in his own words

Born in Rome, Italy, and a photographer for the last45 years, I had an unusual start in the underwaterworld. It happened in the early 60s during my firstdiscovery of scuba diving. U/W photography inthose years was really challenging, equipment wasinvented day by day, Rolleiflex and Hasselbladwere the only camera manufacturers offering U/Whousings. In 1968, in the waters of the Red Sea, ona reef off Port Sudan, I had the luck to photograph a Manta ray giving birth and even today, after somany years, my images are the only evidence ofsuch an event in the wild. My work was published in magazines all over the world. In 1969 I won theSilver Star at the prestigious International UnderwaterPhotography Contest, the Premio Maurizio Sarra inItaly; David Doubilet, the American grand master of U/W photography and National GeographicMagazine photographer, won the Gold. I have been living for last 14 years in Belize, a smallcountry in Central America; I was immediatelyattracted by the wonders and beauty of itswilderness, its forest, its wildlife and the underwater

world of its barrier reef, the second longest in theworld. In 2002 I made the transaction to digital,facing all the problems and challenges of this newphotographic era. During the last few years, I haveorganized many expeditions to the Amazon Basin of Madre de Dios, in Peru, a vaste area of rainforest,home to many National Parks: Parque Nacional del Manu, Reserva Nacional Tambopata, ParqueNacional Bahuja-Sonene. Traveling in these areas is always problematic considering the equipment aphotographer normally carries, now adding laptops,hard drives, portable electric generators, etc. But thehardships are always worth it: the chances toencounter wildlife are good, the rewards for thewildlife photographer are extremely satisfying. In2009 I traveled to the Pantanal in the state of MatoGrosso in Brazil; I spent several weeks at the JaguarResearch Center, a small tent lodge owned by therenowned zoologist Dr. Charles Munn, a pioneer ineco-tourism. My goals for the future: to travel more inthe remote areas of South America, especially Brazil,Peru and Bolivia. There is so much wildlife to see. .http://www.robertofabbri-wildlife.com

103PPoorrttffoolliioo

Baby Black Caiman,Caiman niger,

with a nasty fly on the headsucking its blood,

Amazon Basin of Madre de Dios, Cocha Cusiyacu,

Peru, South America.Cocha is the Spanish

and local name for oxbowlakes, those temporary

natural basins formed by the flood of the great rivers

in the Amazon basin.

During the time I spent at Lago Huitoto in the Amazon Basin of Madre de Dios, Peru, an oxbow lake formed by the flood of the Rio Madre de Dios, I always encountered abundant wildlife. These three baby Black Caimans, Caimanniger, were part of a large group sunbathing on a log on the beach side. I got very close and they did not pay much attention to me; in factthis particular one, to show his total indifference, yawned in my face! Rainforest of Lago Huitoto, Amazon Basin of Madre de Dios, Peru, South America.

104PPoorrttffoolliioo

The Amazon Basin of PeruThe Amazon basin of theMadre de Dios has been my destination for four expeditions, from 2004 to 2007. This vast area of tropical and rain forest is home to two major National Parks and to the Tambopata-Candamo Reserve Zo

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