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ANDRISEN MORTONForum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2012

FASHION AND FANTASY

DESERT DREAMS

THE JACKETAN INDISPENSABLE FINISHING TOUCH

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Everything new is new again! Styles may change. Colors may be brighter. Cuts may be slimmer. Our merchandise may include new designers. But year after year and season after season, this letter’s message remains the same: Thanks to you, we’ve made it through another year—now 34 and counting!

Watch for some exciting changes in the store in 2012, starting with an all-new renovated Ermenegildo Zegna Shop-in-Shop, Colorado’s one and only. Stop in and check it out. Plus, there are more surprises in store for you. What’s not surprising is the amazing new spring/summer 2012 collection, perhaps the best we’ve ever assembled.

So please take a few moments to flip through our magazine. Discover great clothes, get tips on man-style, and get to know the Andrisen Morton family a little better.

Enjoy, Craig & Dave

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FEATURES1 Welcome Letter6 Exceptional People Make an Exceptional Store 8 Tailoring That’s a Cut Above10 Two You Can Count On24 Retailing: The Soul of a Merchant48 Photography: Rock Star58 Art: Art Glass

FASHION18 Suiting: Tailored to Perfection20 Profile: Samuelsohn26 Denim: Attention-Grabbing Style 28 Designers: Robert Graham30 A Walk in the Walled City38 The Jacket

DEPARTMENTS4 Ask Craig and Lindsay12 As I See It...14 Essay: Pull it Together16 Ask Forum44 World Scene50 Spirits: Roll Out the Barrel52 Travel: Awesome Austria56 Speed: Leaping Cat60 At Your Service

Andrisen Morton270 St. Paul Street

Denver, Colorado 80206303-377-8488

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans GschliesserMANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochellePROJECT MANAGER

Lisa MontemorraDESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole VendittiCONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ MitchellMERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob MitchellDIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg EadieDIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER

Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA

Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH

Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX

Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA

Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT

Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN

Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA

Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR

MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY

BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX:

203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412

• FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO

RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS,

TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE

REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15,

ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

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ASK CRAIG & LINDSAY

When it comes to men’s style, there are no bad questions—only bad results if you don’t know the answers. To get your man-style questions answered, drop Craig and Lindsay a line at [email protected]

Ask Craig

Q. What’s the story with cuffs on flat-front pants?

A. There’s no hard-and-fast rule against having cuffs on flat-front pants, but a plain bottom tends to look and hang better on narrower cut pants. It’s really a matter of personal taste, but if you opt for cuffs, make sure they're 1.5" to 1.75" wide.

Q. I have some formal events coming up this summer. Should I wear a bow tie or long necktie with my tux?

A. Style leans to the bow tie, but all three tie options for tuxes are appro-priate: the pre-tied bow tie, the hand-tied bow tie (takes some practice to get it right), and the long necktie in black, silver, or a thin black/silver stripe. Consider wearing a wing collar shirt—they’re making a comeback.

Q. What’s up with the sockless look?

A. More and more men are going sockless in summer. And in fact, most men’s leather shoes look great with-out socks. But the “sockless” look is really just that—a look. The smart guy wears no-show socks or liners. These secret socks protect shoes, feet and the noses of those nearby. So go sock-less; just don’t forget to wear socks.

Q. What’s the proper attire for the golf course?

A. Start with some dressier flat-front cotton or cotton/silk blend shorts with at least a 20” inseam and narrower legs. No balloon-y cargo shorts. Then go with a comfortable, dressier polo (tucked in, please!) and finish with a nice leather belt. Color does have its place on the golf course. Be bold!

I’m traveling quite a bit for business this summer. How can I get the most out of what's in my suitcase?

Sounds like you need a 10-pocket suit, which is a great new concept for traveling. More casual, softer, and less structured, 10-pocket suits are typically woven in wrinkle-resistant high-twist yarns, which are ideal for travel. The jacket features five pockets

outside and five inside to comfortably accommodate all your stuff—cell phone, passport, glasses, business cards, whatever—and still cut a good figure. You can wear it as a complete suit for more important meetings and gatherings, or wear the jacket as a blazer with nice jeans or casual flat-fronts. A 10-pocket suit is the perfect solution for looking great on the road.

Q. A.


Q. A.

Q. Can I wear shorts to a nice restaurant?

A. Unless you’re in very casual outdoor setting, the answer is no. A dark wash denim, colored cotton five-pocket style or flat-front trouser is far more appropriate. Add a great sport shirt, a sharp belt, maybe even a cotton blazer, and go sockless in some loafers—not flip-flops!

Q. Is color still as big as it was last year?

A. Last year’s pastels literally pale in comparison to the bolder colors in the spring/summer 2012 collections. Grab some brightly colored shorts, slacks, shirts, and maybe even a sport jacket. You’ll project a confident, devil-may-care attitude, and be right in style.

Q. Models in the men’s magazines always sport two or three days of beard stubble. Can regular guys pull that off?

A. If you’re on vacation or just kicking around the house, maybe. (As long as you get the OK from your wife or girlfriend.) But in any business or social situation, a clean-shaven look is always preferred. Just grow up and shave! And be careful not to cut yourself…

Q. Last year, I dumped my favorite pleated pants infavor of flat-front styles. Now there’s the five-pocket trend. Isn’t that for jeans?

A. The flat-front pant is going to be around for a while, which is a good thing. Most guys look way better—as in slimmer—in them. The new five-pocket styles take the denim model, but applied to different fabrics like twill and brushed cotton. And in brighter colors and different cuts too. Explore the possibilities of five-pocket pants.

Q. Should men get menicures?

A. Man-style is all about presentation and grooming is a very important part of that. Masculine manicures keep the nails neat, trim and clean, which is much appreciated by us members of the opposite sex. When a man takes pride in the way he looks, it is sexy, all the way down to his nails.

Is it acceptable to sleep nude in the warmer months?

I don’t know, is it? But seriously, check out some of our amazingly cool and comfortable summer pajamas. Next question.

Ask Lindsay


Exceptional People MAKE AN


Exceptional StoreOur shelves and racks may be fi lled with the world’s fi nest men’s clothing, but that’s

not what keeps customers coming back. It’s the expert knowledge, beyond-the-norm

service and genuine friendliness of our people. Always has, always will be.

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Drew Barrymore

HOBBIES: Travel, family, her 13-year-old daughter and one-year-old baby

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: The beach, either the Jersey Shore or Florida

KNOWN FOR MAKING: Italian red sauce and meatballs

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Our servant spirit. Customers feel comfortable and cared for.”

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: A young Demi Moore

HOBBIES: Interior design, Cross Fit, boxing and anything athletic

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: NYC, Italy or Laguna Beach

WHAT SHE WOULD WEAR EVERY DAY IF SHE COULD: 6” heels or Lululemon workout gear

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Customers like shopping here for the same reason I like working here—it’s all about people.”

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Martin Short

HOBBIES: Basketball, football, snowboarding at Breckenridge

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: NYC and Glenwood Hot Springs

KNOWN FOR MAKING: People laugh

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “The customer is always right, even when their little dog bites and draws blood on a delivery.”

TARAA Jersey girl by birth, Tara moved to Aurora at age 8. As a young girl, Tara wanted to be a teacher, but her grandmother’s career in fashion and retail put her on the path to AM. Starting when she was a teenager and through her time at University of Northern Colorado, Tara worked at Target, Peck & Peck, and ID, eventually leaving school to manage its Southglenn store. Hard to believe Tara’s bright smile and calm demeanor have been keeping our customers happy for 15 years now. She makes everyone feel welcome.

JOEI Born in Honolulu to a military mom and dad, Joei moved to Colorado at age 10. Joei always loved fashion, so after high school, she attended L.A.’s Fashion Institute of Design & Marketing. Her talent was evidenced by the fact she soon began doing “visuals” (designing windows and displays) for Armani Exchange and Neiman Marcus—although barely 18 years old! Joei returned to Denver and became a full-time member of the AM family in 2004 at the age of 19. She adds a sense of style, sophistication and fun to the store.

PAUL Born in Idaho Falls, ID, Paul spent his early childhood in Scotland. He grew up a huge Notre Dame fan and actually wanted to become a sportscaster. He loves playing basketball, playing and watching football, snowboarding at Breckenridge and carpentry. Paul is our man about town, and we mean that literally. He handles all the personal deliveries for the store, as well as many other tasks. He’s been on the go for AM since 2006.


Tailoring That’s

a Cut AboveOur six full-time master tailors and seamstresses are a vital part of the store’s success.

That’s because we know the best looking apparel is also the best fi tting apparel. You met a few in

the last Forum, and we hope you’ll take a moment to meet the rest of the tailoring department now.

G ILDO, AL IC IA, HA I & ROBERT


Hai grew up in Haiphong, Vietnam, a bustling port city near the capital of Hanoi. His family relocated to Saigon when the Vietnam War escalated. As a child, he dreamed of traveling and at age 19, Hai joined the South Vietnamese

Navy to pursue that dream. Unfortunately, he was imprisoned by the Communists for five years at the end of the war, but finally made it to America in 1986. His family owned a tailor shop and Hai started learning the trade at a young age. He joined the AM family in 1997 after working for a number of years at an upscale tailoring shop on South Broadway.

Alicia Growing up in Durango, Mexico, Alicia dreamed of going to school and college, but life got in the way. She came to America in 1982 for better opportunities in life and has worked very hard ever since, starting in a local dry cleaner. Alicia is the tailoring department’s “presser,” the person who assures the clothing the tailors have worked on looks its very best before being delivered to the customer. She came to AM in 2007 and we are so very happy to have her.

HOBBIES: Exercising, jogging and reading

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Yearly trips to Mexico to visit family and go to the beach

KNOWN FOR MAKING: Green chili, tamales and posole

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “The people are so wonderful!”

Gildo Gildo was born in the village of Calvene, Italy, 60 miles northwest of Venice in the Asiago valley (yes, home of the

cheese). Though born to be a tailor—he’s the third generation—as a kid he wanted to be a pilot. Gildo

apprenticed with his father at age 14, and immigrated to Colorado in 1965.

HOBBIES: Watching Formula One and Indy Car racing and soccer

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Las Vegas to play poker and blackjack

KNOWN FOR MAKING: Pasta, pasta, pasta!

WHAT HE WOULD WEAR EVERY DAY IF HE COULD: Jeans and a T-shirt

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “The merchandise, the people, the comfortable atmosphere. It’s so nice, I couldn’t stay retired.”

Robert Robert, our own man of mystery, was born in Warsaw, Poland during WWII. It was a tough childhood but Robert persevered and became a successful tailor with a large shop. His clientele were primarily the many diplomats in Poland’s capital city. Now here’s the mysterious part… Robert was involved with Solidarity, the group that spearheaded the Polish revolution. He left everything behind and came to the US in 1987 for “security reasons.” Robert’s tailoring career in Denver includes many years at Fashion Bar, Alta Moda and Saks. He began working at AM in 2006.

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Paul Newman

HOBBIES: Skiing, photography, sports cars

KNOWN FOR MAKING: Great coffee

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Snowmass, Breckenridge and any beach

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Everything is the best quality, including the people!”

Hai HOBBIES: Travel and listening to music

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Anywhere in Europe. Returned to Vietnam in 2010 to visit family he hadn’t seen for many years.

WHAT HE WOULD WEAR EVERY DAY IF HE COULD: Real casual—jeans and polos

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Great service, great merchandise, and everybody is so friendly.”


TWO YOU CAN COUNT ON: STYLE

AND SERVICE

Usually, men don’t like

shopping. Until they

shop here. Mostly it’s

because of experienced,

style-savvy sales pros

like Mike and Tyron.

Like their counterparts,

they’re men’s fashion

experts and are

practitioners of the lost

art of uncompromising

personal service.

Count on it.

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Col. Sanders

HOBBIES: Spending time with his wife, kids and grandkids

KNOWN FOR MAKING: His wife Rosie laughs if he even tries to cook

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Management gives us the flexibility to order anything our clients want. There’s no luxury men’s shop better at customer service than we are.”

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Bill Cosby

HOBBIES: Reading, being outdoors, skiing, golf, music, good restaurants

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: St. Anton in Austria and long weekends in Steamboat Springs

KNOWN FOR MAKING: Grilled anything including steaks, chicken, BBQ

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “It’s like going to a favorite restaurant or bar to hang out with friends—and shop! It’s inviting, the service is incredible and the team is the best.”

MIKE THOMPSONMike is a true son of the Midwest, growing up in the small city of Delaware, Ohio, which is in the exact geographic center of the state. He aspired to be a master carpenter just like his father, but his dad knew better. So in 1968, Mike went off to college in Southern California, first at Glendale College, then Cal State-Northridge where he majored in art/art history. As a student, he began working part-time at an upscale men’s store in Burbank, loved interacting with customers and was hooked. Then in 1972, Mike became the manager of Bentley’s LTD—a shop very much like AM—managing men’s locations in Palos Verdes and Manhattan Beach. Mike came to AM about eight years ago, after working at Saks Fifth Avenue for many years.

TYRON JAMESTyron’s roots are in Chicago, but he grew up in Germany, France and Italy as part of a military family. An admitted military brat, Tyron knew the military wasn’t for him. He earned a degree in petroleum geology from Western State, and was a Small College All-American tight end playing for the Mountaineers. Though working in the oil and gas industry, Tyron started moonlighting at the very upscale Cerruti 1881 and enjoyed it so much, he changed careers. The ensuing years found him at Alta Moda, Lawrence Covell and Neiman Marcus. He began calling AM home in 2004.


UNIQUELY COLORADO

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Most businesses just give lip service to the concept of service. We actually think about service all the time and try to improve it all the time. It’s our biggest priority. We live and breathe service.

Here, service is defined as the exact amount of attention a customer wants or needs, combined with careful execution of details—right down to the guy wearing his new suit for the first time. And much of that detail is in tailoring and alterations. It must be perfect the first time. It’s why we have seven world-class tailors on staff.

Service is also not saying “no.” We figure out ways to always say yes.

What I think about most is how customers feel. When they feel great, they send us new customers. When they don’t feel so good, even if one customer is upset with us, that keeps me up at night. Big time.

Great service isn’t just sending thank you notes or birthday cards, calling about an upcoming sale, or asking about spouses by name. Those activities are about relationships, which is certainly as important as providing great service. The majority of clients probably see them as one and the same.

While our job is always to stay in touch with clients on an emotional level, our success is predicated on how well we serve them. Call it our “servant spirit.”

Many customers say they most value our delivery service. Our full-time delivery guy and van made nearly 2,000 trips last year alone. 2,000! And that’s just in metro Denver/Boulder. We also deliver to Aspen, Vail, Colorado Springs and Fort Collins, too.

How cool is that? You come in, buy some beautiful clothes, get fitted by expert tailors, and all of a sudden the clothes show up at your door. You don’t have to come back in to pick them up. That’s great service.

Service also extends to having enough pros on the floor, behind the register and in the tailoring department. We love the fact that customers enjoy being in the store, but trust me, a guy doesn’t want to wait 15 to 20 minutes to be helped with a purchase or to get a fitting. So staffing properly is service, too.

Anyone can sell somebody once. If you have world-class merchandise, selling a guy once is easy.But the only way they come back to buy again is great service.

Whoever offers the best service wins. We enjoy spoiling our customers, and they do too.

AS I SEE IT…

Dave Morton’s take on “service.”


There’s a new player in town.

Lamborghini of Denver

125 Alter Street, Broomfield 303.469.1801


row up,” my fashionable friendsneered over his ceviche, withone eyebrow raised. “You lookdisheveled, kind of a mess…”

“What are you talking about?” Idemanded, feeling very sartoriallyappropriate in trim khakis and a crispblue oxford shirt.

“Your outfit!” he dispatched withdisdain. “It’s dull and uncoordinated.It makes you look dated. And clue-less!” Requesting specifics about myfashion transgressions, I was toldthat, for one thing, my belt and shoeshad nothing in common.

“The belt’s at my waist, the shoesare on my feet: what do they need incommon?” I wondered aloud.

But after a quick self-assessment, Ihad to admit that my friend was right.Despite owning plenty of qualityclothes, some with designer labels, Inever seemed to look quite right.Clearly, my image was far less cooland far more boring than most of theguys in that trendy restaurant.

Time to consult the experts.Here’s what I learned: ■ When it comes to accessories, buythe best you can afford. When theaccessories look expensive, the out-fit looks expensive.■ The belt and shoes should be asclose as possible in color, textureand material.

■ Socks should match the trouser,rather than the shoe. (But a littlewhimsy on the feet is acceptable, asis going sans socks in summer.)■ More than anything else you wear,your tie expresses your personality.Make sure it’s current (three and ahalf inches, narrower if you’re a rockstar) and make sure it’s interesting.Even casual outfits, including jeans,go up a notch with the right neck-wear: try a knit or linen tie, or a sub-tle conversational. ■ Keep your eyewear current. Bringalong a friend when you select newglasses and make sure the framescomplement your face shape andfeatures. (Bold frames are of themoment, but only if they look goodon you!)■ A handkerchief in your sportcoatpocket adds a touch of elegance.

So there it is. Without threateningmy masculinity, the simple act ofcoordinating a suede belt with mysuede bucks has instilled newfoundconfidence. And now that I’m takinga few minutes each morning toaccessorize, my life is changing forthe better. My girlfriend seemshappy to see me. My colleagues areshowing respect. Who knew lifecould be so simple? My patronizingfriend even picked up the check atour most recent lunch outing.

14

essa

y

PULL ITTOGETHER!

THE DIFFERENCE IS IN THE DETAILS.BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

ZEGNA

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CANALI

SPRINGFASHION TIPS

FOR HIM

ASKFORUMQ: I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holding

up pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them? Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style.Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a bal-anced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, two-buttons are in and pleated pants are out!

The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea toinvest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construc-tion and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights yourshape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speedwith updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick upa few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins thesilhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.

Q: What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current forspring/summer 2012?

Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way toupdate is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright col-ors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or softcoats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few timesfor relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with onesthat can’t be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani.

The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers thatdeck shoes offer a perfect footwear option for casual style. Try them with colorfulshorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazer for evening. Drivers and loafers arealways safe bets, too.

Q: My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the samesuits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?

Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Mid-weight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regular-weight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabrictypes are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersuckerin lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannelin darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.

16

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RMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring 2012 is anexquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say,took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just intime for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniver-sary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic

that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waistand natural, semi-constructed shoulders.

Like all Zegna suits this season, the newMilano, available in both single and double-breasted, is interpreted in a range of color-

ful natural fabrics that appear to bebleached by the sun, with an ever-so-slight sheen reminiscent ofsharkskin clothing from the 1950s.But the Milano is tailored with adecidedly modern sensibility. Thejacket is cut slightly shorter andfeatures just a hint more interiorcanvas—as many as three layers—for structure, yet the finished gar-ment remains remarkably light-weight. The defining element is

the barchetta, or boat-shapedbreast pocket, a sewing detail that

can only be achieved by hand.Initially a cloth producer and later a

suit and sportswear maker, ErmenegildoZegna (pronounced zane-ya) has per-

fected the art of lighter-than-air suit mak-ing like no other designer label in history.

The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand notonly constructs all of its own suits in fac-tories around the world (prompting thecompany to introduce the slogan ‘Made in

Zegna’), but the family-owned company

suiti

ng

18

TAILORED TO PERFECTION

100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETSMODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

Zegna suits in a rangeof colorful naturalfabrics that appear tobe bleached by the sun.

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19

has pioneered everything from thetechnically advanced fabrics usedto make its suits to the su mesura,or made-to-measure, concept oftenemployed to sell them.

WHAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDOZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-cially the made-to-measure

variety—can only be answered byslipping into one. Each piece is alabor of love tailored to your exactspecifications, in the fabric of yourchoice. You can select the numberof pockets, the direction of thepleats on your trousers and eventhe buttons and whether or notthey work. Moreover, it will bemade with such attention to detailthat your every physical anomaly—from sloping shoulders and athrown back to a hollow chest oran enlarged abdomen—is actuallymasked by the finished garment.(Buying one of these suits is a farbetter option than going under thedoctor’s knife.) You may neverneed to visit your tailor again.

“By the time a made-to-measuresuit is complete over 500 handswill have touched it and more than7,000 hand stitches will have beenused to create it,” explains imagedirector Anna Zegna.

Zegna workers have a hand inevery step, from shearing the sheepthrough the processing of the fiberinto yarn (and then fine fabrics), tothe cutting and sewing of everyjacket using a combination of mod-ern machinery and hand finishing.

“The perfect fit of a Zegna suitcomes from constructing it with100 pieces; the lining alone com-prises 12 separate components,”adds Zegna. After each piece isprecision cut, it passes through thehands of hundreds of tailors,whose singular purpose is to turn

one-dimensional pieces of clothinto a three-dimensional garmentworthy of the most discriminatingclientele. The waistband, fly andbelt loops on a pair of trousers canrequire more than 20 workers, andit takes the efforts of another 24tailors to construct the sleeves of ajacket; nearly 190 sewers areinvolved in creating the body of asingle jacket. Even the act ofsewing a simple buttonhole “cantake an eternity of careful cuttingand stitching,” says Zegna.

Once the fabric has been cut,corresponding pieces are carefully

bundled and passed down to thetailors and sewers to construct thegarment, which can take as long asfour days to wind its way throughthe 110-step production cycle.

Upon completion each suitundergoes an arduous pressingprocess performed by dozens ofworkers: six to press the slacks andanother 22 to press and hand-ironthe jacket before it receives itsfinal inspection. If the finished gar-ment meets the company’s loftystandards, it is literally given theZegna seal of approval as the sig-nature logo is sewn in place.

THE SECRET of a Zegna suitisn’t just the meticulous wayit’s put together, but theinnovative cloth used to makeit. The company’s founder andnamesake, Ermenegildo Zegna,began as a fabric maker in1910 with the creation of anatural wool weighing roughly350 grams per square meter,considered featherweight byearly 20th-century standards.Today, most Zegna fabrics weighin at a fraction of that andinclude such technical advancesas Trofeo, a worsted wool madeof prestige Australian superfinemerino wool with long fibers foradded strength and resiliency,and the latest 13milmil13, avicuna-like fabric made from

merino yarns measuring lessthan 13 microns. (To appreciatehow exceptional this is, oneneed only reflect on the factthat a human hair measuresroughly 50 to 60 microns.) Thedevelopment of such fine micronwools is the result of Zegna’s1963 initiative, the VellusAureum trophy, which motivatesand awards Australia and NewZealand’s sheep farmers whoproduce these ultra-fine wools.

Pioneering fabrics for springinclude Zero Weight, a blend ofsuperfine merino wool and silkwith a yarn count of 600—thefinest silk quality in the world.The company is also movingforward with last year’s CoolEffect, in which fine Australian

wool is finished to enable darkfabrics to reflect heat like light-colored ones. The result: a cloththat keeps the wearer 10degrees cooler than if he werewearing an untreated fabric.

“Fabric represents Zegna’sheritage and it’s the primaryfocus of our innovation,” saysAnna Zegna, noting that thebrand offers more than 700cloth options, including 200 newfabrics each season, as part ofits made-to-measure suit service.Over the course of thecompany’s 100-year history,“Zegna has invented over 20unique and innovative fabrics invarious colors, patterns andtextures, which have becomestaples of our collection.”

ANDR_SUITING_Tailored to Perfection.qxp:ANDR_ 1/27/12 1:48 PM Page 19

ounded in 1923,Samuelsohn is aMontreal-based clothingcompany with a reputa-tion for excellence basedon fine tailoring, luxuryfabrics, unusual atten-

tion to detail and modern style. For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring

means fully-basted canvas con-struction: there is no glue in theinterlinings of their suits, so thatthe garment maintains its shape,fit and comfort even after repeatedcleanings. Their luxury fabrics arefrom the best mills in Italy andEngland, featuring cashmere,camel hair, superfine wools, Pimacotton, Italian silk and preciousfibers like vicuna and yangir.Hand-tailored details includeBemberg linings, corozo or hornbuttons, silk threads and labels,and Italian cotton pocketing.

But perhaps Samuelsohn’s realsecret weapon is its designer,Arnold Brant Silverstone, who grewup working for his family’s clothingcompany in Montreal beforelaunching his own in the late 1990s.Respected as one of the most tal-ented designers in the industry,he’s also known for his dapper per-

sonal style. Here, we speakwith him about tailored cloth-ing, and about what makes awell-dressed man.

What’s so special about aSamuelsohn suit?It’s about hand-craftsmanship:each suit takes six and a halfhours of labor, more than manyof the well-known designerbrands that arealmost twice theprice. Are theymade totallyby hand?No. If wecould auto-mate it all, wewould. But thereare severalprocesses amachine can’tduplicate: the hand-basting, the hand-sewn armholes, theshoulder. Certainsteps can be automat-ed and you won’t seethe difference, butothers cannot. Mostimportantly, technol-

OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE.BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

SAMUELSOHN:

NEVER COMPROMISE

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ogy has not been able to duplicatea full canvas garment. Cheapersuits look okay on a hanger sincethe shape comes from pressing.But after dry cleaning, that shapeis gone. Your suits are known for acertain “expression”—whatdoes this mean?It means the garments are not flat:there’s a certain dimension, a soft-ness, a sexiness. After all, thehuman body is not flat, so a well-tailored suit should also haveshape and dimension.What should guys look forwhen buying a suit?The most important thing is fit:when you put on the garment, itshould make you look better. Awell-tailored suit hides myriadimperfections and moves with you.The shoulders should be on you,not out to there. Today, men arewearing suits closer to the body,but that shouldn’t mean you losecomfort. It’s like driving a greatsports car and really feeling theroad. When you wear a quality suit,it moves with you.How can guys look elegantwhen they’re not wearingsuits?The biggest problem is when menequate casual with not caring, with

throwing on jeans and a T-shirt.The best-dressed men put thoughtinto dressing: casual might meanbeautifully tailored cotton pantsand a soft jacket or a lightweightknit cashmere sweater or a coolreversible outerwear piece. Thinkback to the best-dressed men overthe decades: The Rat Pack, James

Bond, the Kennedys, Cary Grant,George Clooney… However casualthe look, it was well thought-out,not thrown together, reflectingtheir personal style. What are the key items aman should have forspring/summer 2012?1) A great summer suit, maybe atropical wool in British tan or dovegray. 2) A performance blazer orsuit, either with high-twist yarns orsome Lycra. Most guys these daysare traveling or on the move butthere’s no reason not to look crisp…3) A cool outerwear piece: some-thing reversible or with interiorpockets or truly transitional andmulti-functional. 4) A soft coat.We’re famous for ours: they looktailored but weigh next to nothing.What’s the secret of successfor a clothing manufacturer?Passion! I’ve been doing this formore than 20 years; I inherited thepassion from my parents. But inaddition to passion, one needs aspirit of innovation. We’re on topof the latest fabrics, fits, technolo-gies. We’re always pushing theenvelope, never satisfied with thestatus quo. We want the customerto say “WOW!” every time he putson one of our garments. That’s mypassion, and my mission.

How would you describeyour own personal style? I like to look contemporary: notblending in with the crowd but notblatantly standing out. I like cloth-ing that’s special, with the focus onfit, quality and elegance. That’s theway I like to dress and the kind ofclothing I love to design!

CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE.

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IN TODAY’S HIGHLY COMPETITIVEretail environment, how do inde-pendent stores compete with storesmany times their size? Here, wespeak with a few star merchants inthe Forum store group (a coalitionof America’s top specialty apparelstores) to learn how they do it.

Theorizes John Malouf ofMalouf’s in Lubbock, Texas: “We’vesurvived by featuring only the bestproduct in each category, and byteaching customers how great theycan look in the right clothes.”

Adds John Braeger of Garys inNewport Beach, California, “Oursecret is buyers who live in thecommunity so they really knowtheir customers’ interests, tastesand lifestyles…”

Braeger pointsout that independ-ents are more willing totake risks than storesthat are publicly owned.“We buy smaller quanti-ties with more selection, soyou’re less likely to see some-one in town wearing the samething. Our goal is to please cus-tomers, not shareholders…”

What’s more, independent mer-chants often buy designer brandsdifferently than the big stores,working personally with thedesigners to develop exclusivesand fine-tune assortments.

Explains Bob White of HubertWhite in Minneapolis, “Our advan-tage is knowing who we’re buyingfor and combining that knowledgewith trends in the market.”

Obviously top merchants travelfar and wide to find exclusiveproduct: many take eight to 10trips a year. Says Malouf, “We trav-el regularly to NYC, Dallas, Vegasand Italy, where we work directlywith the designers. To me, design-ing beautiful clothes is analogous

to an artist whopaints or a

musician who

composes: it’s creating somethingof beauty and lasting value.”

On a more pragmatic note,Wally Naymon from Kilgore Troutin Cleveland points out that byshopping at locally owned special-ty stores rather than nationalchains, 80 percent of the moneyspent stays in the community.

Andrisen Morton in Denver,Colorado emphasizes service. Saysco-owner Craig Andrisen,“Employees who are respected,rewarded and well cared for treattheir customers the same way.”Adds his business partner DaveMorton, “Our philosophy of busi-ness is simple: ‘Never say no,

always say yes, then go figure itout.’ Exceptional service is

always the ultimate goal.”Sums up Bob Mitchell of

Mitchells, Richards, Marsh’sand Wilkes Bashford: “Our

personalized approach toeverything we do,from buying to mar-keting to service,allows us to give

customers morewithout costingthem more.”

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THE SOUL OF A MERCHANTNO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN THESE MULTI-TALENTEDSPECIALTY MERCHANTS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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denim

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HO ISN’T SEARCHING for theperfect jeans, a pair thatis both comfortable andsexy? Seemingly impossi-

ble standards for most brands to liveup to… but AG isn’t most brands.Mixing that form-fitting silhouettewith a lived-in feel is what makes AGdenim the hottest on the market.

The company launched in 2001as a collaboration between Mr. YulKu and “the Godfather of denim”Adriano Goldschmied. (Ku owns30-year-old Koos Manufacturing,one of the world’s premier denimfactories; Goldschmied co-foundedDiesel.) The two parted amicablyin 2004 and the brand has been onthe up-and-up since Ku’s son Sambecame design director in 2006.

AG manufactures everything in

its own 400,000 sq. ft. facility inLos Angeles, employing over 1,000workers. The amount of time andpersonal attention that goes intoeach pair is astonishing: fromhand-sanding and oven-bakedwhiskering to new eco-friendlylaser technologies that help createthat perfect vintage look.

“We control every step becausewe’re a vertical operation,” Samsays. “We don’t take shortcuts, ortry to save a few cents here andthere with cheaper fabrics or trims.We really care about the productand want our consumer to lookand feel good in our jeans.”

Premium fabrics are sourcedfrom Japan and Italy, many ofwhich are exclusive to the brand.Recently, AG has also impressed

with its non-denim styles, likesuper-soft pima cotton cords.

In denim and other fabrics alike,Sam highlights colored bottoms asone of spring 2012’s hottest trends.Men should try muted colors likesand and charcoal, while womencan experiment with a morediverse range: dusty shades of roseand gray, and saturated brightslike electric blue and raspberry.

The brand has garnered frequentpress attention thanks to its manycelebrity devotees, includingpower couple Gavin Rossdale andGwen Stefani, and Academy Awardnominee Anne Hathaway. But Samgets most excited when he seessomeone—anyone—walking downthe street in a pair he designed.“For me, that will never get old!”

ATTENTION-GRABBING

STYLEAG JEANS WILL GET YOU NOTICED. BY ELISE M. DIAMANTINI

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nyone who’sever thoughtthat men’sfashion is bor-ing can’t befamiliar with

Robert Graham apparel.Founded by award-win-ning designer RobertStock 10 years ago, theseexciting clothes are part of a totallifestyle concept, summed up byhis trademarked mantra(Knowledge, Wisdom, Truth)that appears on every garment.

In addition to the fabulousfashion and spiritual compo-nents, Robert Graham sportswearoffers up a hefty dose of fun! Thecompany does more than 150

events a year, includ-ing the prestigiousConcours d’Eleganceantique car rally inCarmel, California.

Their strongcelebrity following

includes ath-letes (AlbertPujols, MarianoRivera), actors(Alec Baldwin,Owen Wilson),musicians (TheBeach Boys, 50Cent) celebritychefs, weddingplanners and more.

High profile fans notwithstand-ing, Robert Graham’s real success

secret is exceptional product. Tenyears ago, they virtually inventedthe colorful contrast trim wovensportshirt that revolutionizedmen’s fashion. By juxtaposing pat-terns on collars, cuffs, and/or theactual body of the shirt, they creat-ed a whole new look for men’scasual dressing. Since then, theline has evolved to include tailoredclothing, footwear, an extensiveassortment of premium denim, andlots of whimsical accessories, from

hats to socks. Although he’s been through sim-

ilar brand-building journeys sever-al times in his career, Stock (whostarted out working with RalphLauren) couldn’t be happier aboutthis one. “What’s different here isthat Robert Graham is not justabout clothes; it’s about makingpeople happy. Our customers arecollectors: some of them own liter-ally hundreds of our shirts. At arecent personal appearance in astore, I lent the DJ one of ourshirts in a size 2XL. After theappearance, he confided how manypeople told him how great helooked. (So of course I gave himthe shirt!) And that’s what drivesme: seeing that kind of reaction…”

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CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF FASHION INNOVATION.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

ROBERT GRAHAM:

ECLECTIC STYLE

From top: RobertStock; 50 Cent;Albert Pujols

ANDR_DESIGNERS_Robert Graham Eclectic Style.qxp:ANDR_ 1/16/12 1:55 PM Page 28

ALT1-C/CR

Watch Brand of the Year


Fashion_Morocco [regular size].indd 1Fashion_Morocco [regular size].indd 1 1/17/12 3:30 PM1/17/12 3:30 PM

CASB

AHa walk in the walled city

The ancient Moroccan city of

Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan

route between the Sahara and Marrakesh,

and location for the fi lm Lawrence of

Arabia – provides the perfect canvas

for the bold, romantic and timeless

looks of spring 2012...

S E R G I O K U R H A J E C

C L A I R E B A Y L E Y

W E N D Y M C N E T T

P H O T O G R A P H Y

H A I R & M A K E U P

S T Y L I N G





citrus anD spice | strong solids | pops of pink


THIS PAGE

Dress by Lela Rose.

OPPOSITE PAGE

Shirt by Isaia, jacket by Canali.


Sromantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripes


Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket.

A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential fi nishing touch for a put-together casual look.

Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfi nished, lacking in style and sophistication. This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and

styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fi ber” designed to beat the heat,a couple of great jackets can complete any look. And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis—even your favorite shorts!

TheJacket

YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...

THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH AND THE KEY TO A WELL-DRESSED MAN

The Jacket [regular size].indd 1The Jacket [regular size].indd 1 1/28/12 10:33 AM1/28/12 10:33 AM

JACKET 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE ANDELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUALEVERYDAY LOOK

FORGETTABLE

MEMORABLE!JACKET 101: THE EASIESTWAY TO ADD STYLE ANDELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUALEVERYDAY LOOK

The Jacket [regular size].indd 2The Jacket [regular size].indd 2 1/28/12 10:33 AM1/28/12 10:33 AM

SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON ORCASHMERE...A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCEAND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.

The Jacket [regular size].indd 3The Jacket [regular size].indd 3 1/17/12 3:34 PM1/17/12 3:34 PM

DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OFTHINKING THAT JUSTBECAUSE IT'S WARM YOU DON’T NEEDA JACKET!

MEMORABLE!

FORGETTABLE


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Zegna 10-Pocket

Blazer

THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE

TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.


JACKET NOT OPTIONAL: A MERE SHIRT AND TIE MAYBE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.

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UN JOUR EN NORMANDIEThe lovely little town of Bayeux in Normandy, near the English Channel, is home to the celebrated 230-foot tapestry depicting the

Norman invasion of Britain, not to mention extraordinary cheese, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux and a landscape lay-ered with centuries of history. A drive through the lush countryside offers glimpses of châteaus, apple orchards and the famous

Normandy cows, arguably the most tranquil in the world. Naturally, you’ll want to visit the inspiring and poignant beaches and arti-facts of the World War II invasion. (At Port en Bessin, right above a German bunker, notice the watchtower built by the soldiers ofLouis XV.) Nearby is the 17th-century Château de Balleroy, the Forbes family home. So is Brécy, a manor house with restored Italian-style gardens laid out over four terraces. The Château de Brouay, a mid-18th century château surrounded by farms, has been a familyestate for six generations; you can arrange to lunch in the château or have a cocktail in the orchards. And don’t miss La Haizerie farm,where you might be invited to pet the cows before tasting the homemade lavender ice cream.

THE ART OF STYLEL

e Royal Monceau, Raffles in Paris is a veryfashionable hotel. Between rushing out toglamorous appointments, modish guests

dine in the restaurants, gather at Le Bar Long forcocktails, or indulge in the Spa My Blend byClarins (which has the longest indoor pool inParis). And it’s the ideal hotel for art lovers.Paintings, drawings and photography exhibi-tions are in the lobby, the rooms… everywhere.There’s even a contemporary fresco, A Gardenin Paris, on the ceiling of La Cuisine. Le RoyalMonceau is also home to the city’s first artconcierge, who offers tours of the hotel’s treas-ures and organizes excursions, such as a visit tocontemporary art galleries in the Marais and St.Germain areas, or a private viewing of the HenriMatisse exhibition in Pompidou. In Paris, homeis where the art is.

world

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Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

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46

PLUGGED INE

ven if you’re not a motorcycle enthusi-ast, chances are you’re going to want totool around the countryside (or slip

quickly through city traffic) this summer onthe top-of-the-line bike from Evolve. TheTitanium XR is all electric: no gas, no oil, noemissions. It can go up to 60 miles per hour,has a range of 100 miles on one charge andis almost completely silent. At your request,Evolve will even make coordinating acces-sories, such as a container sized perfectly tohold your picnic basket or bottle of bubbly.

SUMMER READINGT

here’s a reason Twin Farms is a nice place to curl up with agood book. Set in Vermont, just north of Woodstock on 300acres of meadows and woodlands, this quiet country hide-

away was once the home of Sinclair Lewis and Dorothy Thompson.Here, many of the great names in literature gathered to talk (andprobably argue) about their work and lives. Twin Farms retains itsaura of simplicity and coziness. There are hand-painted murals,rich maple and pine woodwork, American folk art and rusticallyelegant accommodations, with king-size feather beds, wood-burn-ing fireplaces and screened porches. If you need to stretch, there’shiking, biking, tennis, pond swimming, fly fishing and canoeing.But why bother? Just relax and catch up on your reading.

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n warm evenings, New Yorkers love to gather at rooftoplounges. Upstairs At The Kimberly is a favorite amongcelebrities and fashion insiders. The view is spectacular,

the lounge is never uncomfortably crowded (there’s a strictrule about the number of people admitted), and the staff ischarming. Together, sommeliers Branimir Kostic and NikoMavreas have created an extensive list that boasts a collectionof spirits and wines from all over the world, including an aston-ishing 26 different kinds of Champagne. There are wonderfulsavory and sweet things to munch on (try the truffled mac andcheese or lobster sliders), and either sommelier is happy tohelp guests choose a wine and food pairing. Reach for the stars. IM

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©2012 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C.

Let us indulge you head to toe with a Citrus Lavender Salt Scrub.

Let us ease away tension with the soothing warmth of a Colorado River Stone Massage.

Let us replenish your skin with our special High Altitude Oxygen Facial.

Let us allow you to contemplate nothing more serious than the aroma of your therapy.

Experience the benefits of a spa treatment designed just for you.

For more information or to make an appointment, call The Ritz-Carlton,

Denver at 303-312-3800 or go to ritzcarlton.com/denver.


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Taking photos at rock concertsstarted out as a hobby for NYCteenager Neal Preston. But withhis unique ability to capture notjust the celebrity but the spirit andhumanity within, Preston ultimate-ly became one of the preeminentrock star photographers of our era,traveling around the world withfamous musicians for the past fourdecades. His work has appeared oncovers and features in major maga-zines (Time, People, Rolling Stone),newspapers, movies and on count-

less record and CD covers.We caught up with Preston at a

recent photography exhibit at TheMorrison Hotel Gallery in SoHo. What life lessons have youlearned from traveling aroundthe world with rock stars?I’ve learned that music toucheseveryone in a very deep and spiri-tual place, as it does me. If youtake someone’s music away—and itdoesn’t matter if it’s rock, hip-hop,classical, whatever—you are rip-ping out his soul…

Top left: Stevie Nicksat home in Venice,California, 1981Left: Freddie Mercuryat London’s WembleyStadium, 1986

STAR PHOTOGRAPHER NEAL PRESTONON CAPTURING MOMENTS IN TIME.BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

ANDR_PHOTOGRAPHY_Rock Star.qxp:ANDR_ 1/28/12 10:55 AM Page 48

I’ve also learned that the great-est luxury in life is to be able totake private rather than commer-cial flights!How do you manage to getthese very wired guys torelax? How do you capturethem in ordinary moments?It’s all about being a fly on thewall. Mind you, that’s not some-thing that can be taught; you justhave to go by instinct. There is areal finesse involved with figuringout when to remain invisible andwhen not to. If you start to act likeyou’re the fifth member of LedZeppelin, you’re gonna have a bigfat problem…What was the strangestmoment you ever experi-enced at a rock concert?There are many. But having PeterGrant (Led Zeppelin’s legendarymanager) tell me to actually goonstage during a show and standin front of the drummer (JohnBonham) and shoot him was prettybizarre.What do you consider yourgreatest accomplishment?Many people have told me thatthey can hear the music when theylook at my photos. Who do you most admire? I’m not sure “admiration” would bethe right description, but the twomusicians who have influenced mylife are Pete Townshend and JohnLennon. Pete for the honesty in hiswriting, his creativity, his torturedgenius, his ability to look at lifefrom multiple points of view… Icould go on and on. And JohnLennon, for showing me what“cool” really is, for giving me thegreatest soundtrack to life ateenager could have, and for allow-ing me to realize that music was,and always will be, in my DNA.

49

Jimmy Page,onstage duringLed Zeppelin’s1977 U.S. tour

ANDR_PHOTOGRAPHY_Rock Star.qxp:ANDR_ 1/28/12 10:55 AM Page 49

atered down" liquor is aloaded term, implying a less-than-premium product. The fact is, almostall hard spirits are watered downbefore you buy them. By U.S. law,most hard spirits must have a mini-mum ABV (alcohol by volume) of40%, or 80 proof (liqueurs, sweetened,infused alcoholic beverages, can havea much lower ABV). Since booze usu-ally comes off the still between 110and 190 proof, water is added to bringit down to our acquired palate andmaximize the base product.

The concept of ‘cask-strength’spirits—that is, bottling the productexactly as drawn from a maturingbarrel—has only recently gainedcachet, particularly among Scotchwhisky drinkers. These days, thereare cask-strength releases ofLaphroig, The Glenlivet, TheMacallan and so on, targeting themalt whisky aficionado. "Cask-strength whiskies generally have amuch more intense flavor profile,"says Michael J. Neff, co-owner of thewhisky-driven Manhattan bar WardIII. "It allows a broader range ofexperience.”

‘Cask strength,’ by convention, is"the natural strength of the spirit,unadulterated by water, and is

dependent on maturation conditions,"says Iain McCallum, master blenderfor The Bowmore, Auchentoshan andGlen Garioch whiskies. As a result, thefinal proof usually differs from bot-tling to bottling, so the latest release ofAuchentoshan Valinch might have anABV of 57.5%, while Bowmore's 10-year Tempest Batch 2 is 56%.

Whisky and bourbon aren't theonly aged spirits drinkers are sippingstraight from the barrel these days:

• DeLeon Tequila, a relatively newluxury label, released its extra-agedexpression last fall at cask strength.The $250 tequila, aged 51 months,comes in at 51 proof. Founder BrentHocking is confident in thepurity of his product. "Atcask strength, you can tasteflaws or additives," he says.

• Because Cognac isgenerally a blend ofdozens of barrels, andheavily regulated byFrench law, it's rare to findcask-strength expressionsin America. So whenPierre Ferrand Cognacreleased its $600 limitededition 1972 CaskStrength a couple of yearsago, it was a big deal. And

when it's gone, it's gone.• Pisco, a white, brandy-like grape

spirit, is gaining popularity in NorthAmerica. According to JohnnySchuler, founder of the new premiumlabel Pisco Porton, "in Peru, pisco isdistilled to strength, with no water,oak or anything else added." This pro-duces a clean spirit at about 86 proof."It's an honest drink," Schuler says.

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DeLeon 51, a newextra-aged tequila,is one of the onlymodern tequilasbottled at its fullcask strength.Expect other brandsto follow.

CASK-STRENGTH SPIRITS MOVE BEYOND WHISKY.BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

ROLL OUTTHE BARREL

ANDR_SPIRITS_Roll Out the Barrel.qxp:ANDR_ 1/28/12 10:59 AM Page 50

The Finest Ultra-Luxury Rental Properties in the WorldFive-Star Resort Access Breathtaking Views Personal Concierge Private Butlers & Chefs

in the Most Sought After Resort Destinations in the World.

AND_.indd 051AND_.indd 051 1/17/12 3:02 PM1/17/12 3:02 PM

ver since Julie Andrewsskipped across our moviescreens in the Oscar-win-ning The Sound of Music,the green hills of Austria—and their breathtakingbackdrop of snow-capped

mountain peaks—have been on mytravel wish list. As a young child,something about the soaringTyrolean mountains stirred mysoul and filled me with awe.

Forty years later, when I finallysaw those mountains with my owneyes, they did not disappoint. Forme, Austria inspires wonder, admi-ration and a deep reverence for itsspectacular natural beauty.

I felt the reverence standingnear the large cross and tinychapel on Markbachjoch moun-tain, taking in the sweeping viewsfrom 1,500 meters above sea level.

I felt the admiration for a people

trave

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THE HILLS ARE ALIVE.BY VIVIENNE WEUS

AWESOME AUSTRIA!

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T H E U L T I M A T E T R O U S E R

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who love life and celebrate sum-mer by filling their balconies tothe brim with colorful flowers.

And I felt the wonder when, onthe last day of our holiday, Iopened the curtains to the firstsnowfall of the season and watchedthe green fields and pine trees turninto a veritable winter wonderland.

We spent seven days exploringthe villages and valleys aroundInnsbruck from our base at a bou-tique hotel in the countryside, nearthe pretty village of Hopfgarten in

the Brixental valley. We arrived inmid-September to perfect summerweather, and the next six days gaveus a taste of Austria in all its incar-nations: sunny, foggy, drizzling,thundering and hailing, and then,on our last day, snowing. Weathercan change quickly in the Tyrol!

Our visit also coincided with oneof Austria’s great rural traditions:the annual fancy-dress festival forcows! It’s a ceremonial cattle drivewhen alpine herdsmen bring theircharges down from mountain pas-tures to winter in the warmth andcomfort of the valley’s barns.

To mark the occasion, cows aredecked out in headdresses, deco-rated with flowers and crepe paper,and paraded through the crowd-lined streets. Along with scores of

locals (many in traditional cos-tume) and tourists, we waited forthe cows to descend while lunch-ing on schnitzel, washed downwith cold Austrian beer.

No visit to Austria is completewithout a cable car ride high intothe mountains, to experience that“on-top-of-the-world” feeling. Wetook the gondola from Neiderau toMarkbachjoch, a popular hikingspot and take-off point forparagliders. At the top, the 360-degree view made my soul sing.

Majestic mountain peaks stretchout as far as the eye can see, andyou get a bird’s eye view deep intothe patchwork fields of the valleysbelow. There are lots of hikingtrails, so it’s easy to spend a daywandering across the mountains,then return to the restaurant ter-race to listen to music and watchparagliders run for take-off.

If, like me, you enjoy a bit ofretail therapy on your travels, theTyrol region offers awesome shop-ping, like the amazing SwarovskiCrystal World park, Kristallwelten,at Wattens, which includes a maze,alpine gardens and the world’sbiggest Swarovski shop.

Another great experience canbe had rummaging through storesdedicated to holiday ornaments,

some exquisitely handmade andhand-painted, others kitschy. Wefound one such shop in the arcadein Innsbruck’s Old Town, where wewere wowed by the beauty of pas-tel buildings with intricatelysculpted facades, and the GoldenRoof landmark building with its2,738 gold-plated copper tilesshimmering in the sunlight.

On the food front, we tookadvantage of our hotel’s half boardoffer, which included breakfast anddinner each day. We also enjoyed

trying the local specialties: weinerschnitzel and hearty beef gulasch.

As for desserts, apfelstrudel(apple strudel) remains a firmfavorite, along with kaiserschmar-rn, a pancake made with raisinsand other fruits, broken into piecesand served with fruit compote.

The Austrian people were anobliging and fun-loving lot. Wewere impressed with their strongculture and tight hold on tradition.On special occasions, many stillwear traditional dress—the attrac-tive dirndl for women and lederho-sen for men—with pride! In fact,from decorating their homes tocaring for their pastures and nur-turing their animals, one gets thesense that the Austrians take greatpride in everything they do.

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ROBERTGR AHAM.US KNOWLEDGE · WISDOM · TRUTH

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s a motorsports enthusi-ast and driver, I’ve longbeen obsessed with theJaguar marque. I’veowned several over theyears and love the look,

smell and sound unique to the oldJags. Would the new XJL inspirethe same passion?

I was able to make the compari-son at Motorcars Incorporated inPlainville, CT, where Dean Cusanosells primarily vintage Jags. Amonghis offerings: a 1958 Jaguar XK 150.It was easy to see why these oldJaguars became so popular in theirday: dramatic sculpted lines, expres-sive headlights, a long hood line, adignified grill, and one of the mostpowerful engines of its time.

The new Jaguar XJL displayssimilar characteristics, with an

even more graceful stance. Witha 5-liter overhead cam and 4valves per cylinder V8 engine,this supercharged Jaguar pro-duces an amazing 510 horsepow-er. Its 6-speed automatic trans-mission can also be shifted man-ually using the shifting paddleson the steering wheel, similar tothose found in modern Formula 1racecars.

Connecticut and Jaguar haveanother connection: the town ofThompson is home to America’soriginal purpose-built race circuit.Thompson Raceway began operat-ing in 1940 as a 5/8-mile pavedoval track. In 1952, sports cars likethe Jaguar XK 120 began racingon what had become a 1.5 mileproper road race circuit on landowned by John Hoenig. For years

Thompson Raceway was the hometrack of racers in the Sports CarClub of America’s northeast divi-sion, but the last race held on thecourse was in 1977. The track isstill operated by the Hoenig fami-ly; John Hoenig’s great grandsonJonathan, now marketing manag-er, plans to one day reconstruct thecourse and bring road racing backto northeast Connecticut.

Before my time with the car wasup, I took the superchargedJaguar around the time-honoredoval track for a few hot laps. TheJaguar was at home on the play-ground of its ancestors. I wasthrilled to feel this luxury road carinstantly transform itself into aracecar, as I thought of the leg-endary drivers who preceded meat this iconic speedway.

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A RACECAR DRIVER TESTS OUT THE NEWJAGUAR XJL. BY DAVID A. ROSE

LEAPING CAT

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art

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A MIXTURE of the most common mate-rials—sand, calcium and ash—is trans-formed by fire into glass. Artists turnit into masterpieces.

Making glass dates back to about2500BC in Mesopotamia. Phoenicianswere accomplished glassmakers aswere the Egyptians, known for stun-ning turquoise and blue pieces creat-ed with copper and cobalt oxides. Butit was the Syrians who discoveredglassblowing in 50BC.

Until then, glass objects were luxu-ry items, considered more valuablethan precious gems. Apart from somejewelry—beads and amulets—mostglass was used for utilitarian purpos-es: holding wine, perfume and oils.

Glassblowing made it possible forlarge quantities of diverse glasswareto be produced inexpensively, creat-ing two categories of glass: luxuryand functional. Over the centuries,various areas became renowned asglass centers: Venice, Bohemia,France, Sweden. But while a few indi-vidual artists such as René Laliqueand Louis Comfort Tiffany becameinternationally recognized for innova-tions in the field, glassmaking

Gauguin’sIsland III byPeter Layton

GLASSArt

MIND-“BLOWINGLY” BEAUTIFULBY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

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remained industry based, oftenshrouded in secrecy.

It wasn’t until the 1960s in theUnited States that the idea tookhold that individual artists couldcreate art glass objects in theirown studios. Fueled by desire andtechnical advances, in 1962 artistHarvey K. Littleton and glass sci-entist Dominick Labino ledgroundbreaking workshops at theToledo Museum of Art, introduc-ing artists to the use of glass as amaterial for contemporary art.Soon, glassmaking programssprang up at universities and artschools across the country, andwhat became known as the StudioGlass Movement developed into aninternational phenomenon.

Dale Chihuly is one of the best-known American artists to emergefrom the movement. But Britishartist Peter Layton also happenedto be in the States at the time,teaching ceramics at the

University of Iowa; he became sotaken by the properties of glassthat he changed disciplines.

“Glass has a life and will of itsown that you need to work withrather than control,” explainsLayton. “I love the fluidity of themedium and the spontaneity itdemands.”

Back in England, the glass-smit-ten Layton established TheContemporary Glass Society tosupport and encourage glassmak-ers and opened the LondonGlassblowing Workshop to createand teach contemporary glass art.

Now, Peter Layton and one of hisinitial students, Adam Aaronson,are considered mainstays ofLondon’s art glass scene. Both takenature as an inspiration and “land-scape” and “painterly influences”

are two major areas of commonexploration. Although the execu-tion is quite different, their workhas the feeling of Impressionistpaintings rendered in solid form.

“As an artist, I am inspired bythe ceaseless variability of light onthe landscape, in the sky and on

water,” Aaronson says. “Glass isthe ideal medium to express thisidea of continual change since itsproperties are inherently fluctuat-ing, not only in its molten state butalso in the way the play of lightcreates endless nuances in the fin-ished piece.”

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Above: RubyConicalIntersectionwith AmberSphere byHarvey K.LittletonRight: Squill IbyAdam Aaronson

Viewing Art GlassIn 2012, the 50th anniversary of the Studio Glass Movement is being celebrat-ed at museums across the world.

THE CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASSCorning, New York (www.cmog.org)

Special 2012 Exhibitions: Founders of American

Studio Glass: Harvey K. Littleton & Dominick

Labino; Masters of Studio Glass: Erwin Eisch;

Making Ideas: Experiments in Design at GlassLab

TACOMA ART MUSEUMTacoma, Washington (www.TacomaArtMuseum.org)

Permanent Collection:

Chihuly: Gifts from the Artist

ZeST GALLERY AT THE INTERNATIONAL SCULPTURE OBJECTS & FUNCTIONAL ART FAIRNew York and Santa Fe (www.sofaexpo.com)

2012: Pieces by Adam Aaronson and Peter Layton

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Going above and beyond for customers is the heart and soul of Andrisen Morton’s culture. We believe great merchandise combined with great service is the only way to exceed clients' expectations.

MADE-TO-MEASUREFor the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers, or even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.

GIFT CARDSFor that hard-to-buy-for kinda guy, give the gift of Andrisen Morton. Stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.

ALTERATIONSWith six full-time master tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.

SPECIAL APPOINTMENTSWhether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange special appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call and we’ll make it happen.

HOME/OFFICE VISITSSometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But no worries. We’re more than happy to come to your home or office. So give us a shout and we’re there…

CLOSET CONSULTATIONIs the closet full, but you still can’t

find anything to wear? Call in the style pros of Andrisen Morton for a personal

closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe

and a friendly nudge to gently help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make

room for the new.

PERSONAL DELIVERYWhether in metro Denver, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins or Vail, if youneed a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it…with a smile.

COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAPThere’s gift-wrapping and then there’s Andrisen Morton gift-wrapping. It’s always complimentary and always with the utmost style and a dash of panache.

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The mountain roads are calling.

125 Alter Street, Broomfield . 303.469.1801 . www.sthmotors.com

V12

There is a stretch of road in Boulder Canyon known as The Narrows. 5 corners through the steepest, narrowest part of the canyon. e is a stretch of road in Boulder Canyon known as The Nah of road in Boulder Canyon known as

Vantage

When you reach this stretch of road, open your windows and downshift.

Listen to the note of the engine, feel the grip of the tires and accelerate up the mountain to know everything this car was meant to do.

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