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ANALYSIS OF WEAVER SURVEY DATA
CAMBODIAN EXPORT DIVERSIFICATION AND EXPANSION PROGRAM (CEDEP I): HIGH VALUE SILK COMPONENT
SEPTEMBER 2013
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Table of Contents
1. INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................................. 3
2. BACKGROUND NOTE ON DATA ANALYSIS .................................................................................. 3
3. OVERVIEW OF SURVEY RESULTS ................................................................................................. 4
3.1 LINKAGES TO MARKETS ................................................................................................................ 4
3.2 EMPLOYMENT ................................................................................................................................. 5
3.3 INCOMES, SALES AND PRODUCTION OUTPUTS ....................................................................... 5
3.4 SOURCING ....................................................................................................................................... 6
3.5 PROCESSING .................................................................................................................................. 6
3.6 QUALITY MANAGEMENT ................................................................................................................ 7
3.7 CHALLENGES AND NEEDS FOR TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE ...................................................... 7
4. SUMMARY OF ASSESSMENT OF WEAVERS BY COMPANY ....................................................... 8
4.1 WEAVERS WORKING WITH COLORS OF LIFE ............................................................................ 8
4.2 WEAVERS WORKING WITH CRAFT VILLAGE .............................................................................. 8
4.3 WEAVERS WORKING WITH KRAVAN HOUSE ............................................................................. 8
4.4 WEAVERS WORKING WITH KHMER SILK PROCESSING ASSOCIATION (KSPA) .................... 8
4.5 WEAVERS WORKING WITH KHMER SILK VILLAGES (KSV) ....................................................... 9
4.6 WEAVERS WORKING WITH LADY PENH ...................................................................................... 9
4.7 WEAVERS WORKING WITH MEKONG BLUE ................................................................................ 9
4.8 WEAVERS WORKING WITH NATIONAL CENTER OF DISABLE PERSONS (NCDP) ................. 9
4.9 WEAVERS WORKING WITH SOIERIES DU MEKONG (SDM) .................................................... 10
4.10 WEAVERS WORKING WITH VILLAGEWORKS ......................................................................... 10
4.11 WEAVERS WORKING WITH WOMEN FOR WOMEN ................................................................ 10
5. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CAPACITY BUILDING TRAINING ................................................... 10
6. BASELINES VIS-À-VIS KEY PERFORMANCE INDICATORS ....................................................... 11
ANNEX I: SURVEY QUESTIONNAIREON WEAVERS’ PRODUCTION CAPACITIES AND WEAVING TECHNIQUES .................................................................................................................... 12
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1. INTRODUCTION
A weaver survey was carried out within the framework of the High Value Silk Component of the Cambodia Export Diversification and Expansion Program (CEDEP I), which is a program funded by the Enhanced Integrated Framework (EIF) Trust Fund.
The objectives of the survey were to: i) assess the production capacities of weavers, existing techniques and methods involved in weaving, and their needs; ii) provide inputs for capacity building and training that respond to weavers’ needs; and iii) establish baselines for project indicators related to weavers.
This analysis summarizes the results of the weaver survey related to the three above-mentioned objectives and provides inputs for a full-fledged sector value chain analysis which will be carried out at a later stage.
The weaver survey targeted the weavers who work with the 14 companies that had been identified as direct beneficiaries of the project.
1Based on the information provided by the 14 companies, a mapping
of weavers was prepared (see Figure 1) and a survey questionnaire was developed (see Annex I).
Out of 401 weavers identified as working with the companies, 88 weavers were surveyed. This number represents one fifth of the total, therefore constituting a representative sample. The survey was conducted through physical visits and individual interviews with the 88 weavers from May to June 2013.
2. BACKGROUND NOTE ON DATA ANALYSIS
This analysis is based on the data provided by 88 surveyed weavers. However, not all the questions in the questionnaire were answered by all 88 weavers. Therefore, for each question, averages were calculated using different denominators corresponding to the number of weavers that answered a particular question. It is to be noted that weavers that had not provided any answer to a specific question were not included in the calculation related to this particular question.
1
14 beneficiary companies are AFESIP Cambodia, Colors of Life, Craft Village, Khmer Silk Processing Association (KSPA), Khmer Silk Village (KSV), Kravan House, Lady Penh, Lotus Silk, Mekong Blue, National Centre of Disabled Persons (NCDP), Nyemo, Soieries du Mekong, Villageworks and Women for Women. For more information, see the report, Analysis of Company Survey Data, published in April 2013.
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3. OVERVIEW OF SURVEY RESULTS
The location of 401 weavers working with 14 beneficiary companies is shown in Figure 1. The survey targeted weavers from Kandal Kampong Cham, Phnom Penh, Stung Treng, Prey Veng, Banteay Meanchey, Kampong Thom and Takeo provinces. Out of 88 weavers, 90% are women.
Figure 1. Location of surveyed weavers
Source: ITC
3.1 LINKAGES TO MARKETS
In many cases, weavers do not have capital to purchase looms or find new clients. Some weavers also consider dyeing processes and warp preparation complicated. The large majority of weavers in villages therefore work through intermediaries with the exception of few who are directly employed by companies. Intermediaries play an important role by linking them to buyers, exporters and markets; providing them with dyed silk yarn. Intermediaries are an integral part of the silk value chain in Cambodia. They have close links with souvenir shops, local markets and exporting companies, and sell weavers’ products on consignment. Weavers work with intermediaries in three ways (see Figure 2):
Some intermediaries supply work up to the “full warp preparation” to weavers, give the full price of a scarf (labour and materials) and then deduct the cost of yarn, dyeing and wrap preparation;
Some intermediaries supply work only up to “dyeing” and weavers do the rest, starting from the warp preparation. They give the full price of a scarf, and deduct the cost of yarn and dyeing;
Some intermediaries simply give dyed yarn to weavers, give them a labour price and pay them by piece.
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Figure 2. Workflow: Strategic role of intermediaries
Source: ITC
3.2 EMPLOYMENT
Most of the weavers who were surveyed (88.5%) are employed on an ad hoc basis by intermediaries or companies and paid by product while only 11.5% are employed on a permanent basis, receiving a monthly salary. 26% of the weavers receive work from more than one client or intermediary. As regards the sustainability of their employment, each weaver has been working with his/her employer for 7.5 years on average.
3.3 INCOMES, SALES AND PRODUCTION OUTPUTS
Most of the weavers (84%) have other activities, especially farming (rice) than only weaving to make a living. However, in some provinces such as Takeo, weavers’ entire income comes from weaving. The average monthly income of the 88 surveyed weavers from all sources is USD 472, of which USD 387 (82%) comes from weaving.
Most weavers do not have direct access to final consumers and work through intermediaries or companies: i) when selling to the domestic or tourism market, all weavers sell through intermediaries or companies; ii) for exports, 45% of the weavers work through companies or intermediaries.
Scarves represent the main production output of weavers. 82% of them produce scarves, 29% fabrics and few also produce blankets and fringes. 64% of weavers’ total sales value comes from scarves, followed by fabrics (32%). On average, a weaver produces 91 scarves per month and receives
1. Intermediary buys silk yarn
2. Intermediary dyes the yarn
3. Intermediary sets-up the warp design and loom
4. Intermediary assigns the weaving task to weavers
6. Intermediary collects the finished products from the weavers and pays
them
total scarves x buying price per scarf – silk yarn – dye of yarn
5. Weavers produce the scarves, fabrics, etc.
3. Intermediary assigns the dyed yarn to weavers
4. Weavers set-up the warp design and loom
6. Intermediary collects the finished products from the weavers and pays
them
total scarves x buying price per scarf – dyeing of yarn
OR total scarves x labour rate per
scarf
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USD 3.4 per scarf. As for fabrics, 100.4 square meters are produced on average per month, giving weavers USD 4.4 per square meter. The average prices of scarves and fabrics include the cost of raw materials as well as other costs.
3.4 SOURCING
Weavers work with silk yarn, either 100% silk yarn or synthetic yarn mixed with silk, or mix silk with other raw materials such as cotton. 87% of them obtain the silk yarn through their employers while 24% purchase the yarn from middlemen or local markets. Those who purchase the yarn largely procure it from Vietnam, mostly fine silk (95%) at the average price of USD 50.3 per kg and rough silk (30%) at the average price of USD 37.3 per kg. Weavers also purchase dye stuff mostly from local markets.
3.5 PROCESSING
74% of the surveyed weavers are engaged with at least 2 types of processing activities. Chart 1 shows that weaving is the processing activity that most weavers are engaged in (95%) followed by spinning (64%), reeling (56%) and dyeing (38%).
Chart 1. Number of weavers running different processing activities
Source: ITC weavers’ survey
In terms of dyeing process, 26% of the weavers dye themselves and the most commonly used dyestuffs, by order of importance, are thai dye, german dye (azo-free) and natural dye. In some villages, service centres dedicated to dyeing and/or warping processes have been established to provide dyeing and warp preparation services.
Two dyeing techniques are used: synthetic (thai dye and dye star) and natural dyeing. 23 weavers who dye themselves use synthetic dyeing techniques whereas only 4 weavers use natural dyeing techniques. Weavers dye silk yarn using plain, ikat and thai dye techniques and fabric (from organza to thicker silk fabric) using plain, multi-coloured and thai dye techniques.
The most commonly used weaving technique is satin or chiffon type (94%) followed by ribbed weaving (50%), skip end (29%) and Ikat (27%) (see Figure 3).
50 56
33
3
84
1 3 3 2 2 0
20
40
60
80
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Figure 3. Weaving techniques used by weavers
Source: ITC’s weaver survey data
All weavers (100%) know how to apply at least one plain weaving technique, 19% know basket weaving techniques, and 11% Jacquard weaving techniques. On average, each weaver applies at least two different weaving techniques. The types of equipment used by weavers are handloom (79%) and fly shuttle loom (36%).
3.6 QUALITY MANAGEMENT
90% of the weavers indicated that they address quality standards and 13% have already received training on quality-related standards. However, it appears that there are few quality management mechanisms in place at weaver community level. Weavers depend on intermediaries or employers, including exporting companies, who have a better understanding of market requirements.
50% of weavers indicated that their employers have a penalty system in place i.e. payroll deduction on rejected pieces, to motivate weavers pay specific attention to the quality of their products.
32% of the weavers indicated that they apply environmentally friendly measures, such as dyeing processes.
3.7 CHALLENGES AND NEEDS FOR TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE
72% of the weavers have already received technical assistance to improve weaving skills and techniques mainly focusing on production techniques. For future technical assistance, weavers have identified the following priority need areas
2: i) production techniques (82%), ii) design (54%), iii) quality
management (25%) and iv) costing and pricing (15%).
The major challenge faced by the Cambodian silk sector is the migration of weavers to large cities or to neighbouring countries such as Thailand. Competition comes from Thai silk businesses and garment factories in large cities which offer higher wages to weavers.
To limit migration of weavers, it is estimated that Cambodian silk businesses would have to pay weavers a monthly continuous salary of USD 120 to 300, depending on the region. However, increasing weavers’ salary implies that product prices would increase and, thus, could make Cambodian silk products less price-competitive in export markets.
Increasing productivity and improving weaving skills could be an alternative option. This would require capacity building trainings, marketing missions and awareness-raising activities among weavers to induce changes in the way of working. Indeed, increased productivity and the production of higher value silk products could possibly, to some extent, bring higher wages to weavers and, thus have a positive impact on limiting the migration.
2 The questionnaire provided a list of proposed areas of support.
Plain weaving
Satin or chiffon type (organza, smooth texture, varies only on color, used for the warp and
weft)
Ribbed weaving (weft bigger than warp)
Skip end (gap between thread either on warp or weft)
Loose weaving (weaving in lesser number of yarns)
Basket weaving
Twill
Diamond
Jacquard weaving
Chorebap
Embedded embroidery
Ikat (using patterned
multi-colored yarn for the
weft)
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4. SUMMARY OF ASSESSMENT OF WEAVERS BY COMPANY
4.1 WEAVERS WORKING WITH COLORS OF LIFE
Colors of Life works with 36 weavers from Takeo province. Most of the weavers working with Colors of Life have been engaged with the company mostly through intermediaries since 7 to 18 years.
The intermediaries supply raw materials including dyestuff to weavers who prepare warp and do reeling, spinning, weaving and dyeing. Weavers produce 4 meters of Ikat Hol (0.9-1 meter wide x 4 meters long) per month and sell it at USD 100. The production rate is much lower than average since the weavers run themselves the whole processing activities from reeling to weaving and some weavers work only part-time.
Assessed needs: skills to fix colour and to soften scarves, design and dyeing techniques.
4.2 WEAVERS WORKING WITH CRAFT VILLAGE
Craft Village works with 38 weavers from Kandal (5), Takeo (11), Prey Veng (10), Banteay Meanchey (8) provinces and Phnom Penh. 4 weavers from Phnom Penh work in the company’s workshop.
Weavers in Phnom Penh’s workshop operate with four looms and have been working with Craft Village for about 2 years. On average, they earn USD 600 (gross amount) from weaving and produce four scarves in raw silk (0.6 meter wide x 1.80 meters long) per day on four looms. Usually, raw materials are supplied by clients. They do natural and synthetic dyeing (Dye Star).
As for weavers in other provinces, Craft Village supplies them with dyed yarn and products are collected by intermediaries. In Prey Veng, weavers do spinning themselves and prepare warp. They receive USD 0.88 to 1 per scarf, amounting to a total of USD 30 to 50 per month.
Assessed needs: cheaper but good quality silk yarn, skills to use fly shuttle loom, dyeing techniques and design.
4.3 WEAVERS WORKING WITH KRAVAN HOUSE
Kravan House works with 25 weavers from Takeo (15) and Prey Veng (10) provinces. Weavers have been working with Kravan House since 1 to 6 years.
Most of them work through intermediaries who supply raw materials. Weavers prepare warp and do reeling, spinning and weaving. Then, the intermediaries collect and wash products, and deliver them to Kravan House. In Prey Veng, weavers produce 20 pieces of scarves and 50 metres of fabric per month and receive between USD 50 and 100. One scarf is approximately USD 1.28 and weavers can normally produce 2 scarves per day. In Takeo, weavers produce on average 45 scarves per month.
Assessed needs: skills to fix colour and design.
4.4 WEAVERS WORKING WITH KHMER SILK PROCESSING ASSOCIATION (KSPA)
KSPA works with 12 weavers from Takeo province including a master weaver who knows Chorebab and Ikat techniques.
Weavers are provided with dyed yarn and mainly produce scarves using handlooms. The master weaver can produce one standard scarf per day and half of a Chorebab scarf. The master weaver receives USD 1,000 to 1,850 per month including raw material costs. Weavers get paid USD 75 per month.
Assessed needs: skills to use advanced looms such as katra, skills to fix color and soften scarves.
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4.5 WEAVERS WORKING WITH KHMER SILK VILLAGES (KSV)
KSV works with 100 weavers from Kandal (10), Prey Veng (20), Kampong Cham (10), Banteay Meanchey (30) and Takeo (30) provinces.
KSV provides weavers with dyed yarn and design. Weavers do the setting-up of looms and warp.
They are paid by product and receive USD 2.3 to 2.5 per scarf. On average, they produce 1 ½ scarves a day. The monthly income of part time weavers, working 6 hours a day, is between USD 50 and 200.
In Takeo, weavers get USD 45 to 70 per month on a part time basis. In Kandal, those weavers who have more than one loom receive more than USD 500 per month and weavers with one loom earn approximately USD 50 to 80 on a part-time basis.
In Kampong Cham, weavers only recently started exporting with KSV, Cambodia Craft Cooperation (CCC) and Craft Village. Most of their sales are ikat products and they earn between USD 173 to 660 per month depending on the number of looms they have. In Prey Veng, weavers receive USD 75 to 128 per month.
Weavers interviewed in Banteay Meanchey have been working with KSV for 7 to 10 years as home- based weavers. The weavers expressed interest in producing silk towels as they can weave 60 meters per month at USD 2.50 per meter which will give them approximately USD 150 per month.
Assessed needs: design, quality management, dyeing techniques, weaving techniques in particular the use of fly shuttle loom and Ikat technique, skills to fix colour, costing and pricing, more sales links.
4.6 WEAVERS WORKING WITH LADY PENH
Lady Penh works with 20 weavers from Takeo (5), Prey Veng (10) and Phnom Penh (5). Five weavers from Phnom Penh work in the company’s workshop, using two looms.
Intermediaries provide weavers with already dyed yarn. Products, mainly plain fabrics, are collected by intermediaries. On average, weavers produce 20 meters of fabric per month on one loom. Payment is made in two ways: weavers receive a monthly salary of USD 50 plus another USD 30 to 45 by piece; or weavers are paid by product at USD 1.5 per meter of plain fabric and USD 15 per meter of intricate Ikat.
Assessed needs: design, skills to use fly shuttle loom or katra, weaving and dyeing techniques.
4.7 WEAVERS WORKING WITH MEKONG BLUE
Mekong Blue works with 45 weavers from Stung Treng province. Weavers have been working with the company since 5 to 11 years.
Mekong Blue provides weavers with yarn and does the preparation of warp, dyeing and design. Weavers are paid by piece and skilled ones are paid between USD 5 and 7.5 per scarf. On average, they earn between USD 75 and 110 per month. Weavers receive training support from the company.
Assessed needs: design, weaving techniques in particular Ikat and Chorebab motifs, dyeing techniques.
4.8 WEAVERS WORKING WITH NATIONAL CENTER OF DISABLE PERSONS (NCDP)
NCDP works with 20 weavers from Takeo province. Most of them are skilled and have been working with NCDP since 10 years.
NCDP provides weavers with dyed yarn. Weavers get paid USD 1.25 per piece and earn between USD 45 and 60 per month depending on the time they spend on weaving.
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Assessed needs: skills to use fly shuttle loom.
4.9 WEAVERS WORKING WITH SOIERIES DU MEKONG (SDM)
SDM works with 55 home-based weavers from Banteay Meanchay province and 10 weavers from Takeo province. Most of them have been working with SDM since 5 to 12 years.
SDM assigns only weaving-related tasks to weavers. The rest of the production activities such as reeling, spinning, dyeing and warp preparation are done by the company staff.
SDM trains weavers during six months and then gives them weaving assignments. Home-based weavers can earn USD 85 to 300 per month depending on their working time. Prices for scarves are between USD 3.5 and 7 per piece depending on the size. A weaver produces, on average, one scarf per day while highly skilled weavers can produce up to 2 scarves a day.
Assessed needs: weaving techniques (other than plain or satin) and embroidery techniques (embedded and hand embroidery), skills to texturize fabrics and quality management.
4.10 WEAVERS WORKING WITH VILLAGEWORKS
Villageworks employs 40 weavers from Kandal (3), Takeo (5), Prey Veng (2) and Kampong Thom (30) provinces and sewing groups in Kampong Thom and Phnom Penh provinces. The duration of weavers’ engagement with the company ranges from 5 months to 7 years.
Weavers are provided with dyed yarn and a fully prepared warp. They use handlooms and can produce up to 4 scarves a day. They are paid by piece and earn between USD 60 and 75 per month.
Assessed needs: dyeing techniques, skills to set up a loom, design and weaving techniques including Ikat technique.
4.11 WEAVERS WORKING WITH WOMEN FOR WOMEN
Women for Women works with weavers from Prey Veng and Takeo, through intermediaries.
Weavers are provided with yarn by intermediaries, who dye it and collect products. In Takeo, weavers dye themselves using natural, German and Thai dyeing techniques. Weavers can produce 2 ½ scarves per day and about 3 meters of organza per day. They are paid USD 0.38 per scarf, earning on average USD 30 to 150per month.
Assessed needs: design and weaving techniques.
5. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CAPACITY BUILDING TRAINING
The following recommendations, to be considered by the project, would contribute to some of the challenges and needs faced by weavers, as identified through the survey and interviews. In addition to the need to review current prices, increasing efficiency and improving production skills are priority areas to strengthen the production capacity of weavers.
Production skills:
Dyeing techniques: - How to use natural dye and synthetic dye, - How to fix colours on yarn and fabric.
Techniques on how to soften scarves.
Fly shuttle loom skills: how to set-up and use fly shuttle looms (after the study tour mentioned below).
Study tours:
Local visits: where katrak or fly shuttle looms are used such as Prey Veng Village, Artisans d’Angkor and Takeo.
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Foreign countries: - To key target importing markets (USA, Australia, Japan, EU and Korea) identified by
the project, combining study tours with marketing missions; - To neighbouring countries, to visit fabric laboratory companies (internationally
accredited) to understand product quality standards and how testing is conducted; to learn weaving techniques. In Myanmar for example, weavers use katrak or fly shuttle looms which help increase production efficiency.
Design training:
Colour scheme: how to match colours,
Fashion trends.
6. BASELINES VIS-À-VIS KEY PERFORMANCE INDICATORS
The table below summarizes the baseline data extracted from the weaver survey according to selected relevant project logical framework and performance indicators.
Strategy of Intervention
Key Performance Indicators
Baselines Remarks
Impact #1: Increased competitiveness of the Cambodian silk sector with a positive impact on poverty reduction through employment creation and income growth, especially among women, thereby contributing to meet Cambodia’s MDGs
Increase in income of silk weavers by 200%
Monthly income from silk weaving: USD 387 on average per weaver (88 weavers answered)
Impact #2: Focus on high value silk exports will contribute to developing Cambodia’s image of an economy that can compete not only on price but also on quality.
Output 2.2 Improved vertical integration of silk value chain and enhanced technical skills of weaving communities to enable production of high quality handmade silk products in larger quantities
Number of (male/female) weavers who improved technical skills in yarn preparation, weaving and dyeing
Knowledge and skills will be assessed before and after trainings
Road Map Pillar 2 KPI 2.3.7.e: Continuing capacity building among weavers/producers
Baseline not required – activity-specific indicator
Number of (male/female) weavers serving the export market
Estimated 38 weavers reported to be serving export markets: 45.2% (84 weavers answered)
Share of production output compliant with “spec card” requirements
Baseline not required – activity-specific indicator
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ANNEX I: SURVEY QUESTIONNAIRE ON WEAVERS’ PRODUCTION CAPACITIES AND WEAVING TECHNIQUES This is an independent survey undertaken by the International Trade Centre (ITC) – a United Nations (UN) organization – to assess the production capacities of weavers and existing techniques and methods involved in weaving. The information provided will be kept confidential, for project purposes only. Please fill in one questionnaire for each weaver.
▪ Questionnaire n° ……………
▪ Date (day/month/year): …………………..
▪ Interviewer’s name: …………………………………………………………………….……….……………
1. GENERAL INFORMATION
1.1 Name
1.2 Age
1.3 Gender
1.4 Community’s name and location (town, province)
2. EMPLOYMENT
2.1 Are you employed? □ Yes on a permanent basis (with a monthly salary) □ Yes, paid by product □ No
2.2 Who is employing you? (multiple answers possible)
□ Company. Please specify: □ Intermediary or supplier. Please specify: □ Association. Please specify: □ Other
2.3 How long have you been working with the above-mentioned employer(s)?
2.4 How does the employer(s) contract you?
□ Verbally
□ Formal (written) contract
2.5 How are you paid and how much? □ Per hour. Please specify: USD □ Per output/piece. Please specify: USD
3. INCOME
3.1 Do you have other activities than weaving to earn money? e.g. farming
□ Yes. Please specify: □ No
3.2 What is your overall monthly income (total)?
USD
3.3 What is your monthly income from silk weaving only?
USD
4. SILK WEAVING
SOURCING
4.1 What type of material do you work with? (multiple answers possible)
□ Silk □ Cotton □ Synthetic □ Wool □ Other: Specify:
4.2 Are you a member of a Purchasing Unit?
❒ Yes ❒ No
4.3 Do you purchase silk yarn or does the employer provide it?
□ You purchase □ Provided by the employer
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4.4. If you purchase, what is the source of silk yarn?
□ Middlemen □ Local market □ Other. Please specify:
4.5 What kind of silk yarn do you use and from which country?
Fine Silk ❒ China❒
Vietnam❒
Thailand❒
Domestic ❒
Other❒ Specify:
Rough Silk ❒ China❒
Vietnam❒
Thailand❒
Domestic ❒
Other❒Specify:
4.6 How much silk yarn do you need per month? (kg)
Fine Silk : Number of kilos/month:
Rough Silk: Specify kilos:
4.7 Cost / kg of silk yarn (US dollars)? Fine Silk: Cost/kilo:USD
Rough Silk: Cost/kilo: USD
4.8 Do you purchase other production inputs? (please specify and indicate source, quantity and costs for every additional input required)
Type:____________________
Where do you source it from: Provided by the employer ❒
Local Market❒
Traders/Middlemen ❒
Other ❒
Quantity needed per month (kg):__________
Cost / month (US dollars)________________
Type:____________________
Where do you source it from: Provided by the employer ❒
Local Market❒
Traders/Middlemen ❒
Other ❒
Quantity needed per month (kg):__________
Cost / month (US dollars)________________
Type:____________________
Where do you source it from: Provided by the employer ❒
Local Market❒
Traders/Middlemen ❒
Other ❒
Quantity needed per month (kg):__________
Cost / month (US dollars)________________
PROCESSING
4.9 What processing activities do you run? (multiple answers possible)
❒ Reeling ❒ Stitching ❒ Dyeing
❒ Weaving ❒ Finishing /Washing /Ironing
❒ Spinning
❒ Knitting ❒ Other…………
❒ Labeling ❒ Packaging
4.10 Do you dye silk yarn or does the employer provide you with dyed silk yarn?
❒ You dye
❒ Employer provides (If the employer provides, please skip the
4 questions below)
4.11 If you dye, what type of dyestuff do you use and where is it sourced from?
Thai dye ❒ Provided by the employer ❒
Local Market❒
Traders/Middlemen ❒
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Other ❒
Natural dye ❒ Provided by the employer ❒
Local Market❒
Traders/Middlemen ❒
Other ❒
German dye (azo-free) ❒ Provided by the employer ❒
Local Market❒
Traders/Middlemen ❒
Other ❒
4.12 Quantity of dyestuff needed per month (kg)?
Thai dye:
Natural dye:
German dye (azo-free):
4.13 Cost of dyestuff per month (USD)?
Thai dye:
Natural dye:
German dye (azo-free)
4.14 What are the dyeing techniques that you are currently using?
Dyeing kinds:
❒Synthetic dyeing (Thai Dye and Dye Star)
❒Natural dyeing
❒Other. Specify:
Dyeing types:
❒Yarn dyeing (plain, ikat or tie dye)
❒Fabric dyeing (plain, multicolored, tie dye from organza
to thicker silk fabric)
❒Other. Specify:
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4.15 What are the weaving techniques that you apply? (multiple answers possible in the case of combination of mixed techniques)
❒Plain weaving (2 or 3 pedal loom). Specify:
❒Satin or chiffon type (organza, smooth texture, varies
only on color, used for the warp and weft)
❒Ikat (using patterned multi-colored yarn for the weft)
❒Ribbed weaving (weft bigger than warp)
❒Skip end (gap between thread either on warp or weft)
❒Loose weaving (weaving in lesser number of yarns)
❒Other. Specify:
❒Basket weaving (2 to 4 pedal loom) (“lacomb” or “diamond”
weaving). Specify:
❒Twill
❒Diamond
❒Other. Specify:
❒Jacquard (two pedal loom but multiple adjustable heddle set
up). Specify:
❒Embedded embroidery
❒Chorebap
❒Other. Specify:
4.16 Do you design new products and collections or does the employer provide design instructions?
❒ You design ❒ Employer provides
4.17 Which type of equipment do you use?
Automatic loom ❒
Semi-Automatic loom ❒
Hand Loom ❒
PRODUCTION OUTPUT
4.18 What silk items do you produce?
Quantity per month (No. of items or m
2)
Production lead time - from buyer’s request to first sample (number of hours)
Sales per month (USD)
❒ Scarves
❒ Fabric (m2)
❒ Clothing
❒ Bag
❒ Ties
❒ Cushions
❒ Shawls
❒ Blanket
❒ Other (please specify)
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5. QUALITY MANAGEMENT
5.1 Do you address quality standards? ❒ Yes ❒ No
5.2 If yes, how? (Please briefly describe)
5.3 What kind of quality management system does your employer have to ensure the quality of products?
No system in place❒
Training ❒
Payroll deduction on rejected pieces ❒
Reject / no pay system ❒
Other❒ (specify)
5.4 Do you apply environmentally friendly measures to protect the environment such as use of natural dyes?
❒ Yes ❒ No
6. SALES
6.1 Are you serving export markets? (exports directly by weavers or sales through intermediaries which export)
❒ Yes ❒ No
6.2 Do you sell your products directly to buyers?
❒ Yes. Where?
❒ No (sales only through intermediaries)
6.3 What is the amount of your sales by month (in USD)?
Direct sales: USD
Sales to intermediaries: USD
6.4 If the response to question 6.2 is Yes: please specify the type of buyers and how you reach them (in local markets, etc.)
❒Locals. How?
❒Tourists. How?
❒International buyers. How? In which countries?
6.5 If the response to question 6.2 is No: Specify the type (associations, enterprises, tour operators, etc.) and the number of intermediaries you currently work with
Type:
Number:
6.6 If the response to question 6.2 is No: How did you identify the intermediaries you work with? (multiple answers possible)
❒It is the intermediaries who contacted you
❒You got the contacts from other weavers
❒You identified them through your own research
❒Other: Specify
6.7 If the response to question 6.2 is No: Specify since how long you have been working with these intermediaries
Average number of months and years:
6.8 If the response to question 6.2 is No: Specify the regularity of orders received from intermediaries
❒Yearly
❒Monthly
❒Weekly
❒Irregular, depending on intermediaries’ needs
❒Other: Specify
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7. TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE
7.1 Have you ever received any technical assistance to improve weaving skills and techniques?
❒ Yes ❒ No
7.2 If yes, in what areas? Sourcing of inputs ❒
Design ❒
Identification of new markets and buyers ❒
Marketing and sales ❒
Costing and Pricing ❒
Packaging ❒
Quality management ❒
Production techniques ❒
Other❒ Specify:
7.3 What type of technical assistance do you consider most important to increase production efficiency and quality improvements?
Specify only the 3 most important ones
Sourcing of inputs ❒
Design ❒
Identification of new markets and buyers ❒
Marketing and sales ❒
Costing and Pricing ❒
Packaging ❒
Quality management ❒
Production techniques ❒
Other❒ Please specify:
7.4 Would you be interested in attending training workshops?
❒ Yes ❒ No
7.5 Are you cooperating with other weavers? In what areas?
❒ Yes - Sourcing❒
Production techniques ❒
Design ❒
Other ❒ Please specify:
❒ No
7.6 If not, would you be interested in cooperating with other weavers?
❒ Yes ❒ No
7.7 Any further information you wish to share
Thank you for your collaboration!
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Ms. Sylvie Bétemps Cochin Trade Promotion Officer Office for Asia and the Pacific Geneva, Switzerland Email: [email protected] Mr. Pheanuroth Sisowath, Project Coordinator Project Coordination Unit Phnom Penh, Cambodia Email: [email protected]
International Trade Centre Palais des Nations, CH-1211, Geneva 10, Switzerland http://www.cambodiansilksector.org
H.E. Mr. Pan Sorasak Secretary of State and EIF Focal Point Email: [email protected] Mr.SuonPrasith EIF Program Manager Department of International Cooperation (DICO) Email: [email protected] Ministry of Commerce Lot 19-61, MoC Road (113B), PhumTeukThla, SangkatTeukThla, Khan SenSok Phnom Penh Kingdom of Cambodia
