AN OVERVIEW OF THE

FIBER SECTOR IN INDIA

September 12, 2008

PAPER: Principles of Fashion Marketing

PROJECT GUIDE: Mr. Sushil Raturi

SUBMITTED BY: Arnav Paitandy | FMS, Sem 1, 06

Kanika Jain | FMS, Sem 1, 12

Priyank Telang | FMS, Sem 1, 22

Rajat Abrol | FMS, Sem 1, 23

Watan Gupta | FMS, Sem 1, 33

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CONTENTS

TITLE PAGE NO.

Introduction 3

History of Fiber 4

Evolution of the Fiber Industry 5

Natural Fibers:

Cotton 10

Flax 15

Wool 16

Silk 21

Jute 31

Coir 34

Manmade Fibers:

Polyester 38

Nylon 41

Rayon 43

Acrylic 44

Lyocell 46

Spandex 48

India Consolidated 50

Government Policies 52

Bibliography 55

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INTRODUCTION

Fiber or fibre is a class of materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete

elongated pieces, similar to lengths of thread.

Human uses for fibers are diverse. They can be spun into filaments, string or rope, used

as a component of composite materials, or matted into sheets to make products such as

paper or felt. Fibers are often used in the manufacture of other materials. Synthetic

fibers can be produced very cheaply and in large amounts compared to natural fibers,

but natural fibers enjoy some benefits, such as comfort, over their man-made

counterparts.

The natural fibers may be classified by their origin as cellulosic (from plants), protein (from animals), and mineral. The plant fibers may be further ordered as seed hairs, such as cotton; bast (stem) fibers, such as linen from the flax plant; hard (leaf) fibers, such as sisal; and husk fibers, such as coconut. The animal fibers are grouped under the categories of hair, such as wool; fur, such as angora; or secretions, such as silk. The only important mineral fiber is asbestos, which because of its carcinogenic nature has been banned from consumer textiles.

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HISTORY OF FIBER

The history of fibers is as old as human civilization. Traces of natural fibers have been located to ancient civilizations all over the globe. For many thousand years, the usage of fiber was limited by natural fibers such as flax, cotton, silk, wool and plant fibers for different applications. In the 6th and 7th century BC, the oldest recorded indication of using fiber comes with the invention of flax and wool fabric at the excavation of Swiss lake inhabitants. In India the culture of silk was introduced in 400AD, while spinning of cotton traces back to 3000BC. In China, the discovery and consequent development of sericulture and spin silk methods got initiated at 2640 BC while in Egypt the art of spinning linen and weaving developed in 3400 BC. The discovery of machines and their widespread application in processing natural fibers was a direct outcome of the industrial revolution of the 18th and 19th centuries. The discoveries of various synthetic fibers like nylon created a wider market for textile products and gradually led to the invention of new and improved sources of natural fiber. The development of transportation and communication facilities facilitated the path of transaction of localized skills and textile art among various countries.

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EVOLUTION OF THE

FIBER INDUSTRY

Fiber history can be divided into natural fibers and man-made or chemical fibers as

listed below:

FLAX (LINEN)

The recorded usage of Flax can be dated back to 5000 BC and it is considered to be the oldest natural textile fiber.

There has been reported usage of fine linen used in Egyptian pharaohs and tombs.

Major Producers: The Soviet States, Poland, Germany, Belgium and France Major exporters: Northern Ireland and Belgium. COTTON More than 1,300 years ago, it is recorded as a singular fact that an emperor named Ou-ti, wore on the occasion of his accession to the throne of China, a cotton robe.

Earliest use of cotton has been estimated between 3,000 BC to 5,000 BC. It is recorded to have been worn by Egyptians prior to 2,500 BC. The invention of

the cotton gin in 1793 revolutionized the processing of cotton. During 1884, the development of the power loom brought about significant

improvements and variations to cotton fabrics. Major producers: United States, Soviet States, China and India. Lesser producers

include Pakistan, Brazil, Turkey, Egypt, Mexico Iran and Sudan. WOOL In the tombs and ruins of Egypt, Nineveh, and Babylon, in the barrows of early Britons, and among the relics of the Peruvians, fragments of woolen fabrics have been found.

The Romans began to improve their flocks as early as 200 BC, that later became the progenitors of the popular Spanish Merino sheep.

The dated usage of wool goes back to 3,000 BC and it is known to have been used by people of the late Stone Age.

During the 18th century, England became the great wool-producing country of Europe, and wool was the staple of its industry until cotton began to overshadow it.

There are 40 different breeds of sheep, which produce approximately 200 types of wool of varying grades. Major producers: Australia, New Zealand, Soviet States, China, South Africa, and

Argentina.

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SILK Silk production and its roots in textile history is ancient, varied and unknown.

Pliny, the Roman historian, quoted in his Natural History in 70 BC "Silk was obtained by removing the down from the leaves with the help of water…".

For more than two thousand years the Chinese kept the secret of silk altogether to themselves.

It is believed to be discovered by a Chinese princess. It was a guarded secret that passed through many centuries till it was discovered.

More recent archeological reveal a small ivory cup carved with a silkworm design predicted to be between 6000 and 7000 years old. Spinning tools, silk thread and fabric fragments were found from sites along the lower Yangzi River in China and goes on to unravel the origins of sericulture as being earlier than recorded in history. There is a story that two monks smuggled seeds of the mulberry tree and silkworm eggs out of China by hiding them in their walking sticks. Silk is made from two continuous filaments cemented together and used to form the cocoon of the silkworm. It is again said that India learnt of silk culture when a Chinese princess married an Indian prince. The major producer and exporter of silk is Japan. MANUFACTURED/ MAN-MADE / CHEMICAL FIBERS In the year 1665, the English researcher Robert Hooke was the first to describe in his book "Micrographia or some physiological descriptions of minute bodies" the idea of producing artificial silk from a gelatinous mass. Starting from then to now, manmade fiber production has reached an estimate of more than 24 million ton. Used for different applications such as modern apparel, home furnishings, medicine, aeronautics, energy, industry, and more. Fiber engineers can combine, modify and tailor fibers in ways far beyond the performance limits of natural fibers RAYON Rayon was the first manufactured fiber. It was developed in France in the 1890s and was originally also called as artificial silk.

In 1924, the term rayon was officially adopted by the textile industry as a man-made fiber.

It is different from most chemical fibers as rayon is not synthetic. It is made from wood pulp, a naturally-occurring, cellulose-based raw material. As a result, rayon's properties are more similar to those of natural cellulosic

fibers, such as cotton or linen, than those of thermoplastic, petroleum-based synthetic fibers such as nylon or polyester.

Currently, two major companies manufacture rayon fiber for U.S. markets. British companies manufactures viscose rayon in short staple lengths and microfibers. Lenzing, based in Austria, produces viscose rayon, high wet modulus or polynosic rayon, microfibers, and long filament fibers.

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NYLON Nylon's advent created a revolution in the fiber industry. Rayon and acetate had been derived from plant cellulose, but nylon was synthesized completely from petrochemicals.

It established the basis for the discovery of a new world of manufactured fibers. American chemist Wallace Carothers manufactured Nylon for the first time. While working in the laboratories of the DuPont Company on giant molecules

called polymers, Wallace focused his work on a fiber simply called as "66", which is a number derived from its molecular structure.

DuPont began commercial production of nylon in 1939. The first testing used nylon fiber as sewing thread, in the creation of parachute fabric, and also in women's hosiery. In February 1939, Nylon stockings were first shown at the San Francisco Exposition. During the World War II, nylon replaced Asian silk in parachutes. It also found use in tires, tents, ropes, ponchos, and other military supplies, and even was used in the production of a high-grade paper for U.S. currency. ACRYLIC In 1944, Acrylic was developed by DuPont and was first commercially produced in 1950.

Acrylonitrile, the substance from which acrylic fibers are produced, was first made in 1893 in Germany.

It was used as another chemical in research for the DuPont Company. A new fiber, acrylic was added to the list of generic names, as DuPont began

production of this wool-like product It was at first used for outdoor purposes..DuPont ceased production of acrylic in 1991, and only a handful of companies produce acrylic today. Pil-Trol is just one of the many trade names of acrylic and was developed by Monsanto Chemical Company. It allows for the comfort and easy care of acrylic without the pilling. Pilling is a disadvantage of acrylic, but has been eliminated by the technology of Pil-Trol. Other trade names that describe acrylic include:

Acrilan Acrilan Plus Biofresh Bounce-Back Creslan CresLoft Duraspun Fi-lana Innova

MicroSafe MicroSupreme Salus Sayelle So-Lara Smart Yarns Ware-dated WeatherBloc Wintuck

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POLYESTER Polyester began as a group of polymers in W.H. Carothers' laboratory. Carothers was working for DuPont at the time when he discovered that alcohols and carboxyl acids could be successfully merged to create fibers. Polyester was put on the back shelf once Carothers discovered nylon. In 1939, his work was resumed by a group of British scientists, J.R. Whinfield, J.T. Dickson, W.K. Birtwhistle, and C.G. Ritchie. In 1941, they successfully created the first polyester fiber called Terylene. In 1946, DuPont bought all legal rights from them and came up with another polyester fiber which they named Dacron.

In 1951, Polyester was first introduced to the Americans. It was advertised as a miracle fiber that could be worn for 68 days straight

without ironing and it would still not wrinkle. In 1958 another polyester fiber called Kodel was developed by Eastman Chemical Products, Inc. Ever since, the polyester market has been growing. Since it is an inexpensive and durable fiber, small textile mills emerged all over US. Polyester reached a constant growth until the 1970s when sales drastically fell down due to the negative public image that came up during the late 60s as a result of the infamous polyester double-knit fabric. Today, polyester is still widely regarded as a "cheap, uncomfortable" fiber, but now this image is slowly beginning to change with the emergence of polyester luxury fibers such as polyester microfiber. SPANDEX Spandex was invented in 1959, and when first introduced it revolutionized many areas of the clothing industry

It is the stretchable fiber of bathing suits and sports clothes, is stronger and more durable than rubber, its major plant competitor.

The first U.S. commercial spandex fiber production began in 1959 by the DuPont Company.

Spandex is an elastomeric man-made fiber (able to stretch at least 100% and snap back like natural rubber).

A well-known trademark for spandex or elastane is Invista's brand name Lycra; another trademark (also Invista's) is Elaspan.

Current U.S. spandex fiber producers: Invista; Bayer Corporation LYOCELL First produced in the US by Courtaulds Fibers, Lyocell was known by the trade name Tencel.

The first commercial production of lyocell began in the U.S. during 1993, by Courtaulds Fibers.

It is an environment friendly fiber, created from the wood pulp of trees. It is processed using a solvent spinning technique in which the dissolving agent

is recycled, reducing environment effluents.

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NATURAL FIBERS

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COTTON

Cotton is a shrubby plant. Its name refers to the cream-colored fluffy fibers surrounding small cottonseeds called a boll. The small, sticky seeds must be separated from the wool in order to process the cotton for spinning and weaving. De-seeded cotton is cleaned, carded (fibers aligned), spun, and woven into a fabric that is also referred to as cotton. Cotton is easily spun into yarn as the cotton fibers flatten, twist, and naturally interlock for spinning.

The cotton module is cleaned, compressed, tagged, and stored at the gin. The cotton is cleaned to separate dirt, seeds, and short lint from the cotton. At the gin, the cotton enters module feeders that fluff up the cotton before cleaning. Some gins use vacuum pipes to send fibers to cleaning equipment where trash is removed. After cleaning, cotton is sent to gin stands where revolving circular saws pull the fiber through wire ribs, thus separating seeds from the fiber. High-capacity gins can process 60, 500-lb (227-kg) bales of cotton per hour.

Cleaned and de-seeded cotton is then compressed into bales, which permits economical storage and transportation of cotton. The compressed bales are banded and wrapped. The wrapping may be either cotton or polypropylene, which maintains the proper moisture content of cotton and keeps bales clean during storage and transportation.

Source: LGW Limited

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COTTON VARIETIES IN INDIA

Variety States

States Length Micronaire

Value

Strength Spinning

Count Comparable

Foreign Growth (mm) Inches

G/Tex (lCC)

Bengal Deshi

Punjab/Haryana/Rajasthan 15-18 6.0-8.0 15

45,65, Surgical Cotton &

Mattresses

Not Compared/None

Y-1 Maharashtra/Madhya

Pradesh 23-25 3.5-4.9 18-20 Ne 245,265

US MOT, Pakistan Afzal

J-34 Saw Ginned

Punjab/Haryana/Rajasthan 24-26 3.5-4.9 19-21 Ne 265,305 US MOT, Pakistan Afzal/1467

NHH-44 Maharashtra 24-26 3.5-4.9 19-20 Ne

245,265,305 US MOT, Pakistan Afzal/1467

L.R.A

Maharashtra / Tamil Nadu / Karnataka / Madhya Pradesh / Andhra

Pradesh

25-27 3.5-4.9 19-21 Ne

265,305,365 US MOT, Pakistan Afzal/146

Sankar-6 Gujarat 27.5-29.5;

3.5-4.9 21-23 Ne

445,505,555

US Fiber Max / Acala, W African, Australian, Brazilian, Tanzanian, Syrian

Bunny / Brahma

Maharashtra / Madhya Pradesh / Andhra

Pradesh/Karnataka 29-32 3.5-4.5 22-24

Ne 505,555,605

US SJV Acala, Egyptian Giza 86/ Giza 89, Sudanese Barakat, Chinese 229

MCU-5 Maharashtra, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu,

Orissa 32-34 3.2-3.7 23-25

Ne 605,705,805

US Ultima RG, Egyptian Giza861, Giza 89,Sudanese Barakat

DCH-32 Madhya Pradesh,

Karnataka, Tamil Nadu 34-36 2.8-3.3 24-29

Ne 905,1005

US Pima, Egyptian Giza 88/Giza 70, Sudanese Barakat, Chinese 146, GIS ELS, Australian Pima, lsraeli Pima.

Suvin Tamil Nadu 38-40 2.9-3.2 30-32 Ne 1005 Egyptian Giza 45.

Source: LGW Limited

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The above-mentioned states cover around 95% area under cotton cultivation as well as

output in India. Maharashtra followed by Andhra Pradesh and Haryana are the largest

cotton producing states of the country.

India accounts as the third largest cotton cultivator in the world behind China and USA.

Source: CRN India

India is the largest exporter of cotton yarn in the world accounting up to 450 million kg i.e. 17% market share. The countries to which India exports cotton yarn are:

China Korea Bangladesh Egypt Taiwan Hong Kong Turkey Japan

But it also adds on to the list of expenses in the budget of the economy as large amounts of cotton are imported due to the superior quality of foreign cotton. India imports around 22 lakh bales of cotton, which is same as the 12% of the domestic productions. Also the rate of imports is overtaking the rate of exports in the country making it a net importer of cotton. Also cotton sector in India is largely unorganized but several associations are trying to change the scenario.

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MAJOR PLAYERS IN THE INDIAN MARKET:

• Century Textiles

• Bombay Dyeing Ltd

• Morarjee Mills

• Indo Rama

• Mafatlal Textiles

• Satyanarayana Cotton Corporation

• Patel Export Services Private Limited

• Sahyog industries

• Aakash cotton pvt ltd

GOVERNMENT POLICIES

National Textile Policy – 2000:

The primary aim will be to improve production, productivity and quality, and stabilize

prices. The Technology Mission on Cotton will be the instrument for achieving these

parameters. Ministry of Textiles, Ministry of Agriculture, Cotton growing States, farmers

and industry associations will be actively involved in the implementation of this Mission.

Technology mission on cotton – objectives:

Firstly, to augment the income of cotton growers and to ensure availability of quality

cotton to industry in required quantities through Mini Missions I & II by:

increasing the productivity of cotton;

reducing the cost of cultivation and

improving fiber attributes particularly staple length, micronaire and strength

These objectives are to be achieved under Mini Missions - I & II which are under the

Ministry of Agriculture, Government of India.

To improve the quality of processing by removing trash and other impurities as well as

eliminating contamination in cotton, thus enabling textile mills to get clean cotton

meeting international standards, through Mini Missions III & IV by:

improving infrastructure of cotton agricultural markets; and

Improving modernizing the Ginning & Pressing factories.

These objectives are to be achieved under Mini Missions - III & IV; the Nodal Agency

being Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and the Implementing Agency – The

Cotton Corporation of India Ltd.

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Minimum Support Prices:

An increase of over 40% has been announced in Minimum Support Prices for

cotton for cotton year 2008-09 by the government. Currently domestic cotton

prices are already 15% higher than international prices.

The increase in MSPs would trigger another price spiral which the industry will

not be able to afford or absorb. MSP had been increased by 47% from Rs.2030 a

quintal last year to Rs.3000 a quintal this year, for the standard variety of long

staple cotton.

The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has plans to introduce a Cotton Price Index on

line of ICE Futures in the US and Cotlook in the UK. This grand venture would be the

first of its kind in the country and is likely to be of immense help to the textile industry.

Government of Punjab has decided to waive Rs250 million tax arrear on cotton ginning

mills. The decision was taken after a delegation of the mills‟ association met Chief

Minister of Punjab pleading for a revision of the tax structure.

New Draft of UP Textile Policy:

UP textile policy should be framed keeping the policy guidelines of Tamilnadu

(being the most developed state in India) in terms of different sectors of textiles -

organized mills sector, handloom, power loom, knitting, and garments.

In view of the changing scenario of textile trade in India over last couple of

months, it is suggested to have a second round of discussions with veteran

industrialists and technical experts to take their opinion for incorporating in the

policy

In line of the removal of VAT on yarn, readymade garments should also be

exempted from VAT.

Adequate supply of good quality of electricity power is to be ensured.

Subsidized power for power loom sectors to be continued.

In view of high cotton prices and high yield in recent years, techno-economics of

cotton cultivation in UP can be assessed so as to eliminate dependence on

cotton procurement from far off places.

Infrastructure like road and transportation should be improved in Noida as the

place houses huge number of garment export units.

As Noida is a garment hub, fabric is mostly procured from other states. Some

kind of freight subsidy should be given.

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FLAX (LINEN)

Fiber derived from the Flax plant is known as linen. Flax fibers vary in length from about 25 to 150 centimeters (18 to 55 in) and average 12-16 micrometers in diameter. There are two varieties: shorter tow fibers used for coarser fabrics and longer line fibers used for finer fabrics. Flax fibers can usually be identified by their “nodes” which add to the flexibility and texture of the fabric.

Linen fiber is highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, linen fabric feels cool to the touch. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers, with 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. It is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free, and gets softer the more it is washed.

A characteristic often associated with contemporary linen yarn is the presence of "slubs", or small knots which occur randomly along its length. However, these slubs are actually defects associated with low quality. The finest linen has very consistent diameter threads, with no slubs.

The standard measure of bulk linen yarn is the lea. This is a specific length, or indirect grist system, i.e. the number of length units per unit mass. A yarn having a size of 1 lea will give 300 yards per pound. The fine yarns used in handkerchiefs, etc. might be 40 lea, and give 40x300 = 12,000 yards per pound. The symbol is NeL. (3)

Flax is grown in many parts of the world, but top quality flax is primarily grown in Western Europe. In very recent years bulk linen production has moved to Eastern Europe and China, but high quality fabrics are still confined to niche producers in Ireland, Italy and Belgium.

Some 75 000 tonnes of flax fibre (linen) is produced annually, two-thirds in China, with the remainder in a number of European countries. Linen is used for a range of textile products, including clothing and other household textiles.

Over the past 30 years the end use for linen has changed dramatically. Approximately 70% of linen production in the 1990s was for apparel textiles whereas in the 1970s only about 5% was used for fashion fabrics.

Linen uses range from bed and bath fabrics (tablecloths, dish towels, bed sheets, etc.), home and commercial furnishing items (wallpaper/wall coverings, upholstery, window treatments, etc.), apparel items (suits, dresses, skirts, shirts, etc.), to industrial products (luggage, canvases, sewing thread, etc.).

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WOOL

INDIAN WOOL INDUSTRY The woolen industry in the country is small in size and widely scattered. It is basically located in the States of Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan, U.P., Maharashtra and Gujarat. 40%, of the woolen units are located in Punjab, 27% in Haryana, 10% in Rajasthan, while the rest of the States account for the remaining 23 % of the units. A. few of the larger units are located in Maharashtra, Punjab, U.P., Gujarat and West Bengal. OVERVIEW OF WOOLEN INDUSTRY:

Total number of existing units 718

Total number of persons employed in woolen industry and sheep rearing in rural sector

27 Lakh approx.

Wool Combing 29.28 Mn. Kgs.

Synthetic Fiber Combing 3.57 Mn. Kgs

Worsted Spindles 6.04 lakh Nos.

Non-worsted Spindles 4.37 lakh Nos.

Total exports (excluding hand knotted carpet, rugs, durries etc) during 2001-02

Rs.1379.00 crore

2002-03 Rs.1303.52 crore

2003-04 Rs.1553.06 crore

2004-05 Rs.1873.00 crore

2005-06 Rs.2098.27 crore

(Estimated) 2006-07 Rs.2360.55 crore Source: WWEPC, New Delhi

The woolen industry in India broadly falls under two sectors: A) Organized Sector:

Composite Mills Combing units Worsted and non worsted spinning units Knitwear and Woven Garments Units. Machine made carpets manufacturing units.

B) Decentralized Sector

Hosiery and Knitting. Powerlooms. Hand Knotted Carpets, Druggets and Namdahs. Independent dyeing process houses.

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Since indigenous production of fine quality wool required by the organized mill and the decentralized hosiery sector is very limited, India depends upon imports. Imports have been mainly from Australia and New Zealand, the major supplier is Australia. New Zealand wool is being imported mainly for Carpet sector for blending it with indigenous wool. Similarly, for the shoddy sector, import of pre-mutilated woolen/synthetic rags is allowed under OGL. INDIGENOUS PRODUCTION OF WOOL The production of indigenous wool in the Country has been as under: Production of Raw Wool

Source: Ministry of Agriculture

IMPORT OF RAW WOOL AND RAGS The figure of import of raw wool and rags for the last six years have been as follows a) Raw wool (Merino/ New Zealand- Greasy/Scoured)

Source: DGCI&S, Kolkata

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b) Rags (woolen and Synthetic)

Source: Statistics Published by DGCI&S, Kolkata INSTALLED CAPACITY IN THE WOOLEN INDUSTRY AS ON 31-10- 2005

a. Wool Combing b. Synthetic Fibre Combing

29.28 m. kg 3.57 m. kg.

Worsted spindles 6.04 Lakh Nos.

Non worsted Spindles 4.37 Lakh Nos.

Capacity permitted by way of information memorandum and letter of intent as well as for 100% EOU from 01/12/2005 to 30/09/2006. TOTAL ANNUAL CAPACITY IN THE WOOLEN INDUSTRY AS ON 30-09- 2006

Items Total Annual Capacity (01/12/05 to 30/09/06)

Durries Rugs NIL

Wool Tops 2280 MT

Shoddy Yarn 1364 Spindles

Woolen & worsted Hosiery Yarn 2113 M.T./30116 Spindles

Blankets & Shawls/Suiting 2,52,000 Pcs. 3,90,000 Nos. 70 Lakh Metres.

Cotton Spinning (Blended with wool, silk, man-made fibers)

NIL

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ESTIMATED PRODUCTION OF WOOLEN ITEMS (Quantity in millions)

Item Unit 2000-01 2001-02 2002-03 2003-04 2004-05 2005-06 2006-07 (Estimated)

Worsted Yarn Mn. (Kgs)

43.0 44.00 44.00 44.00 45.00 45.33 45.67

Woolen Yarn Mn. (Kgs)

33.0 33.0 34.00 34.00 34.00 34.34 34.68

Wool Tops Mn. (Kgs)

27.00 28.00 28.00 28.00 29.00 29.51 30.02

Fabric (Woolen/ Worsted)

Mn. (Mtrs.)

64.0 68.00 66.00 66.00 66.00 66.00 66.00

Shoddy Yarn Mn. (Kgs)

27.00 26.00 24.00 25.00 26.00 26.00 26.00

Blankets (Shoddy/woolen)

Mn. (Pcs)

13.00 12.00 11.00 11.00 12.00 12.00 12.00

Shoddy Fabric Mn. (Mtrs.)

18.00 18.00 17.00 17.50 18.00 18.00 18.00

RMG (Knitwear/Woven wear and goods)

Mn. (Kgs.)

14.00 13.00 13.00 13.00 14.00 14.00 14.00

Hand Knotted Carpets

Mn. (Sq.Mt)

07.50 07.50 08.00 08.00 08.00 08.17 08.34

Machine made Carpets

Mn. (Sq.Mt)

00.50 00.50 00.50 00.50 00.50 00.50 00.50

Source: Indian Woolen Mills Federation, Mumbai

WOOL VARIETIES AVAILABLE IN INDIA WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.

Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.

Mohair is from the Angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair‟s luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating as well as garment including tropical worsteds.

Angora wool is from the Angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.

Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel‟s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for over coating, top coating, sportswear and sports hosiery.

Cashmere is from the Kashmir goat. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.

Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be

separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the

world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is

generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation

measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive.

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MAJOR PLAYERS IN INDIA:

Birla Group Dormeuil Birla VXL Ltd.

Oswal Knit India

Raymond‟s

GOVERNMENT POLICIES:

National Textile Policy 2000: In order to augment availability of quality wool, the following measures will be initiated:

Take up collaborative research projects with the leading wool producing countries of the world

Encourage private breeding farms to increase productivity Promote private sector linkages for marketing of wool Establish pre-loom and post-loom processing facilities Take up an integrated development programme for angora wool

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SILK

Silk is a natural protein fiber, like human hair, taken from the cocoon of the silkworm.

The natural glue, sericin, secreted by silkworms and not totally removed during

manufacturing of the silk, is a natural sizing. Technically, silk does not shrink like other

fibers. Silk is the strongest natural fiber. A steel filament of the same diameter as silk

will break before a filament of silk.

Silk fiber has a triangular shaped cross section whose corners are rounded. Due to the triangular shape (allowing light to hit it at many different angles), silk is a bright fiber meaning it has a natural shine to it. When held, silk has a smooth, soft texture that, unlike many synthetic fibers, is not slippery. Silk is the strongest of all the natural fibers; however it does lose up to 20% of its strength when wet. Silk fiber has moderate to poor elasticity. If elongated even a small amount the fibers will remain stretched.

OVERVIEW

With over 30 countries producing silk the major producers are:

FIBER PROCESSING The secret to silk production is the tiny creature known as the silkworm, which is the caterpillar of the silk moth Bombyx mori. Only one other species of moth, the Antheraea mylitta, also produces silk fiber. This is a wild creature, and its silk filament is about three times heavier than that of the cultivated silkworm. Its coarser fiber is called tussah.

The cultivation of silkworms for the purpose of producing silk is called sericulture.

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SERICULTURE

Breeding silkworms

Only the healthiest moths are used for breeding. Their eggs are categorized, graded, and meticulously tested for infection. The healthiest eggs may be placed in cold storage until they are ready to be hatched. Once the eggs are incubated, they usually hatch within seven days. They emerge at a mere one-eighth of an inch (3.2 mm) long and must be maintained in a carefully controlled environment. Under normal conditions, the eggs would hatch once a year in the spring when mulberry trees begin to leaf. But with the intervention of sericulturists, breeding can occur as many as three times per year.

Feeding the larva

The silkworms feed only on the leaves of the mulberry tree. The mulberry leaves are finely chopped and fed to the silkworms every few hours for 20 to 35 days. During this period the worms increase in size to about 3.5 inches (8.9 cm). They also shed their skin, or molt, four times and change color from gray to a translucent pinkish color.

Spinning the cocoon

When the silkworm starts to fidget and toss its head back and forth, it is preparing to spin its cocoon. The caterpillar attaches itself to either a twig or rack for support. As the worm twists its head, it spins a double strand of fiber in a figure-eight pattern and constructs a symmetrical wall around itself. The filament is secreted from each of two glands called the spinneret located under the jaws of the silkworm. The insoluble protein-like fiber is called fibroin.

The fibroin is held together by sericin, a soluble gum secreted by the worm, which hardens as soon as it is exposed to air. The result is the raw silk fiber, called the bave. The caterpillar spins a cocoon encasing itself completely. It can then safely transform into the chrysalis, which is the pupa stage.

Stoving the chrysalis

The natural course would be for the chrysalis to break through the protective cocoon and emerge as a moth. However, sericulturists must destroy the chrysalis so that it does not break the silk filament. This is done by stoving, or stifling, the chrysalis with heat.

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THE FILATURE Sorting and softening the cocoons

The filature is the factory in which the cocoons are processed into silk thread. In the filature the cocoons are sorted by various characteristics, including color and size, so that the finished product can be of uniform quality. The cocoons must then be soaked in hot water to loosen the sericin. Although the silk is about 20% sericin, only 1% is removed at this stage. The gum facilitates the following stage in which the filaments are combined to form silk thread, or yarn.

Reeling the filament

Reeling may be achieved manually or automatically. The cocoon is brushed to locate the end of the fiber. It is threaded through a porcelain eyelet, and the fiber is reeled onto a wheel. Meanwhile, operators check for flaws in the filaments as they are being reeled.

As each filament is nearly finished being reeled, a new fiber is twisted onto it,

thereby forming one long, continuous thread. Sericin contributes to the adhesion of the fibers to each other.

Packaging the skeins

The end product, the raw silk filaments, is reeled into skeins. These skeins are packaged into bundles weighing 5-10 pounds (2-4 kg), called books. The books are further packaged into bales of 133 pounds (60 kg) and transported to manufacturing centers.

SILK VARIETIES AVAILABLE IN INDIA In India, silk is mainly produced in Bhoodhan, Pochampally (also known as Silk City), Kanchipuram, Dharmavaram, Mysore in South India and Banaras. "Murshidabad silk", is mainly produced in Malda and Murshidabad district of West Bengal. Another place famous for production of silk is Bhagalpur. The silk from Kanchi is particularly well-known. In the northeastern state of Assam, three different types of silk are produced, collectively called Assam silk: Muga, Eri and Pat silk. Muga, the golden silk, and Eri are produced by silkworms that are native only to Assam. The heritage of silk rearing and weaving is very old and continues today especially with the production of Muga and Pat riha and mekhela.

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WORLD RAW SILK PRODUCTION

The World Raw Silk production (mulberry and non-mulberry) of about 125605 MT (2004) comes mainly from two countries, China and India. China leads the world with silk production of 102560 MT or 81.7% of the produce. India ranks second in respect of world raw silk production.

Unit: Metric tonnes

Note : Figures of India is for Financial year April to March. Source : 2004- Sericologia 44 (3) & ISCC-2005

AREA UNDER CULTIVATION AND DOMESTIC RAW SILK PRODUCTION (2004-05)

India‟s raw silk production is 17305 MT (2005-06), 89.25% (15445 M.T.) of it is mulberry and 10.75% (1860 M.T.) Vanya silks. The area reported by States as cumulatively planted under mulberry is 1.79 lakh hectares (2005-06); and the production of cocoons is 126261 tonnes.

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STATE WISE MULBERRY AND VANYA RAW SILK PRODUCTION

(in metric tonnes)

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PRODUCTIVITY OF RAW SILK IN INDIA

Area under sericulture has fallen- mainly because of drought in AP and Karnataka in the first two years of X Plan, as also due to price fluctuations, the productivity per hectare has been steadily improving. The main reasons behind increase in production is improved silkworm races and hybrids, better technologies in rearing and reeling, evolution of higher leaf yielding mulberry varieties.

Bivoltine silks:

With Japanese technology and cooperation, the Central Silk Board (CSB) has been able to evolve & popularize Bivoltine silkworm races which can yield raw silk of international standards. With these races, provided there are concomitant reforms in the marketing and processing of cocoons, India can expand its sale of domestic raw silk. The X Plan target for bivoltine raw silk production is 1500 tonnes (revised).

SILK IMPORTS

(i) Demand Supply Gap: The domestic production of raw silk is not adequate to meet the domestic and export demand. It is estimated that against the demand of around 26,000 ton per annum the domestic production is around 17300 tonnes. The gap of nearly 8700 tonnes in demand is mainly on account of the fact that high-grade quality mulberry raw silk is not being produced in the country to the extent required by the industry. This quality of mulberry raw silk is basically required in the power loom industry, for export purposes, and to some extent in the handloom industry for warp purposes. To meet the demand of exporters, the Govt. has allowed the import of raw silk.

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(ii) Raw Silk Imports: The quantity and value of raw silk imported during the last five years is:

SILK EXPORTS

(i) Export Trend

Export of Indian silk products comprise mainly natural silk, fabrics, made-ups, ready-made garments, silk carpets and silk waste. Indian Silk exports have grown during last few years, rising from Rs.1250.55 in the year 1998-99 to Rs.2421.98 crore in the year 2000-01. However, in the year 2001-02 and 2002-03 export of silk goods showed a declining trend ie Rs.2359.56 crore and Rs.2294.05 crore respectively. The export of silk goods during 2003-04 was Rs.2779.19 crore. The silk goods exports during 2005-06 was 3194.20 crore showing an increase of 11 % over 2004-05 which was Rs.2879.56 crore.

(ii) Exports Data

The export of silk goods during the last five years is:

* Including silk carpets and silk RMG.

** The silk good exports during the period April-July of 2006-07 was 1046.56 Crore which was 9% more as compared to April-July period of 2005-06 which was 960.34 crore

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DOMESTIC DEMAND

India is the second largest producer of silk in the World, next to China, and has a 12.00% share in global raw silk production. While India produces around 18,475 MTs of raw silk annually (2006-07), total annual consumption of silk in the country, per annum is around 26,000 MTs. The additional requirement of 8,000 MTs of silk (particularly, Bivoltine Mulberry Silk of international quality) is imported mainly from China. Therefore, there is scope for production of additional quantity of silk in the country to meet the domestic demand. The raw silk production which was around 16,319 MTs during the year 2002-03 has increased to 18,475 MTs during the year 2006-07, showing an increase of around 13.21% in-spite various constraints like drought in traditional Sericultural areas of southern peninsula during the year 2002-03 and 2003-04. This apart, the prices of Sericultural commodities had come down during the same period due to large scale dumping of Chinese Silk (yarn and fabrics) into the country during same period. However, the situation has now improved and the prices of Sericultural commodities have improved because of the imposition of Anti-dumping Duty on the low grade silk yarn and fabrics imported from China. The stakeholders of the silk industry are now showing keen interest to take-up sericulture on a large scale due to the favorable conditions. EXPORT POTENTIAL

The export earnings from the silk are growing steadily because of increasing demand for Indian Silk goods particularly, from the USA and European countries. Exports earnings which was Rs.2,294.05 crore during the year 2002-03 has increased to Rs.3338.35 crore during the year 2006-07, showing an increase of around 46%. The India Silk Goods have high export potential because of its distinctiveness and low production cost. India, being a traditional Sericultural country, holds a unique position in the world, since it has the distinction of cultivating all the four commercially known varieties of Vanya Silks viz., Tasar, Oak, Muga and Eri, in addition to the mulberry silk. The export potentialities of these Vanya Silks are yet to be exploited on commercial scale. GOVERNMENT POLICIES National Textile Policy 2000 Focus will be on achieving international standard in all varieties of silk. Steps will include

Improving Research & Development and the effective transfer of technology at all stages;

Considerably improving the production of non-mulberry varieties of silk; Augmenting efforts for the spread of bivoltine sericulture; Encouraging clustering of activities of reeling and weaving and strengthen

linkages between the producers and industry; Periodically reviewing the import policy for raw-silk taking into account the

balanced interests of the sericulturists as well as the export manufacturers.

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TARGETS FOR THE 10th PLAN

(i) Production: In M.Tons

(ii) Exports:

Exports are envisaged to grow at 15% reaching a level of about Rs.3200 crore by end of X-Plan.

(iii) Employment:-

Creation of livelihoods is projected at 60.03 lakhs.

The targets for the sector were fixed in terms of production of mulberry and non-mulberry raw silk, creation of employment and enhancement of exports.

* Anticipated achievement

During the year 2005-06, total production of all varieties of raw silk was 17,305 tons compared to the production of 16,500 tons in the year 2004-05, indicating an increase of 4.8%. Production of mulberry raw silk during 2005-06 was 15,445 tons compared to the production of 14,620 tons in the year 2004-05 indicating an increase of 5.6%. There is a significant improvement in Bivoltine Raw silk production during the year 2005-06 amounting to 971 MT indicating an increase of 8.7% as compared to the production of the same during the year 2004-05 which was 893 MT. Central Silk Board (Amendment) Bill, 2005 has been passed by the parliament and the same has been notified in the Official Gazette on 14.09.2006 as “Central Silk Board (Amendment) Act, 2006 (No.42 of 2006), amending the provisions of the Central Silk Board Act, 1948 to regulate the quality of Silk-worm seed and matters incidental thereto.

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GOVERNMENT POLICIES National Textile Policy 2000: Focus will be on achieving international standard in all varieties of silk. Steps will include

Improving Research & Development and the effective transfer of technology at all stages;

Considerably improving the production of non-mulberry varieties of silk; Augmenting efforts for the spread of bivoltine sericulture; Encouraging clustering of activities of reeling and weaving and strengthen

linkages between the producers and industry; Periodically reviewing the import policy for raw-silk taking into account the

balanced interests of the sericulturists as well as the export manufacturers.

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JUTE

Jute a versatile fibre Jute is a truly versatile fibre gifted to man by nature .One of the

most valuable natural resources of India. With the growing concern over the damage to

the environment that plastic may cause in manier fields jute has served to be the best

alternative.

As a natural fibre, it has many advantages over synthetics. Jute handicrafts of India

have created a niche the world over. Jute has been recognized as environment friendly

as it is biodegradable which merge with the soil after sustained use providing

nourishment to the soil. The reason for the popularity of this golden fibre is because of

it's inherent qualities like jute being made of cellulose, on combustion, jute does not

generate toxic gases, it has high tensile strength, low extensibility, high frictional

resistance and good dimensional stability which also makes it a natural choice for

packaging. Known also as the golden fibre, it is the cheapest of all the natural fibres and

apart from being used in India as the raw material for making sacks, jute today finds

extensive use in the making of handicrafts, textile industrial goods, bags, home

furnishing, apparels, carpets and many more such product thus giving boost to all these

Indian Industries in the world market.

Traditional jute products occupy a dominant share in both the production and exports.

Jute is cultivated almost exclusively in developing countries of East Asia and in some

parts of Latin America. Bangladesh, India and Thailand account for over 90 percent of

world production. Jute constitutes a low proportion of the value of world trade, but its

cultivation and processing is labour-intensive and therefore provides a livelihood and an

important source of food security for many farmers and their families in Asia.

Variety of Jute Fibers Cultivated in India

Source: The Jute Corporation of India Limited

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Jute Export Scenario India is the world's largest producer of raw jute. It alone produces

world's 50% of raw jute and 40% of finished jute goods. The employment of

approximately 40 million farmers and 0.2 million-factory workers in India depends upon

this golden fibre.

The total number of jute mills in India is 73 out of which 59 of them are in West Bengal.

West Bengal is the largest Jute producing state in the country accounting for 71% of the

production. The states of Bihar and Assam rank second and third respectively.

Assuming that weather conditions and yield of jute follow their normal patterns, world

production of jute is projected at 2.4 million tonnes by 2010. India is projected to

increase its dominance of global jute production, accounting for 66 percent of the world

production by 2010, compared to 58 percent in the past.

Export trends for Jute from India

Source: Gifts and Accessories, Golden Thread Future

China's strengthening import demand will also enhance the export trade activities and

will help balance the demand for jute which otherwise was expected to decline with the

fast decline in consumption and import demand by Pakistan, a traditional importer of

fiber.

Bangladesh is expected to remain the largest net exporting country accounting for over

75 percent of world trade in aggregated jute fibre and goods. Net exports from India, the

second largest net exporting country, are expected to remain stable at approximately

185,000 tonnes. Sacking and carpet backing are likely to be the main jute products

exported. Exports of fiber are projected to remain at around 250 000 tonnes.

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Policies

Government promotions for Jute sector Our government has also recognized the fact

that this important sector of the economy has not been given its due importance in the

recent past. However the Indian government is seen playing it's active role in carrying

out supportive measures to further enhance the exports trade market. It plans to carry

out certain profitable activities like produce good quality fibre and products to meet the

growing needs of the country and international buyers, enhance the welfare and well-

being of farmers, farm labour and workers, particularly those in the unorganized sector

and assure a secure future for their families in every respect, it plans to facilitate the

Jute Sector to attain and sustain a pre-eminent global standing in the manufacture and

export of jute products. It is said to carry out research and development; technology

upgradation; creation of infrastructure for storage and marketing of raw jute and product

and market development activities for jute and diversified jute products. Jute

Manufacturers Development Council (JMDC) supported by its three branch offices

provides direct assistance and marketing through its showrooms, regular exhibitions-

cum-sales all over the country and abroad and also by organizing domestic workshops

and seminars. It also organizes demonstrations and training programmes for farmers in

improved agriculture practices. The Jute Corporation of India provides the farmers just

prices for their crops through price support operations in the event of farmers getting the

prices below minimum support price. At times it also takes commercial purchase of raw

jute for jute mills, directly from farmers or through jute cooperatives. It also plans to

Increase exports through innovative marketing strategies and improvement of product

design and quality consciousness in the jute industry and also by developing

infrastructural facilities in the predominantly textile and apparel export oriented areas in

close co-operation with Financial Institutions and the private sector. The Government's

effort with UNDP to develop jute sector mainly through diversification of jute products

seem to have paid off and the jute industry has taken off to transform itself from the

once sunset industry into sunrise industry.

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COIR

Coconut, as found in grocery stores, is actually only the single seed of a fruit of the coconut palm tree. Before being shipped to market, the seed is stripped of an external leathery skin and a 2-3 inches thick intermediate layer of fibrous pulp. Fibers recovered from that pulp are called coir. The fibers range from sturdy strands suitable for brush bristles to filaments that can be spun into coarse, durable yarn. In the United States, the most popular uses for coir are bristly door mats, agricultural twine, and geotextiles.

Coir fibers are categorized in two ways: One distinction is based on whether they are recovered from ripe or

immature coconut husks. The husks of fully ripened coconuts yield brown coir. Strong and highly resistant to abrasion, its method of processing also protects it from the damaging ultraviolet component of sunlight. Dark brown in color, it is used primarily in brushes, floor mats, and upholstery padding. On the other hand, white coir comes from the husks of coconuts harvested shortly before they ripen. Actually light brown or white in color, this fiber is softer and less strong than brown coir. It is usually spun into yarn, which may be woven into mats or twisted into twine or rope.

The other method of categorization is based on fiber length. Both brown and white coir consist of fibers ranging in length from 4-12 inches. Those that are at least 8 inches long are called bristle fiber. Shorter fibers, which are also finer in texture, are called mattress fiber. A 300 gm coconut husk yields about 80 gm of fiber, one-third of which is bristle fiber.

There are three main types of coir fiber

Yarn fiber: Only the finest and longest fiber is suitable for spinning into yam. It is obtained from the husks of unripe nuts and is the main cash crop rather than a by-product.

Bristle fiber: Bristle fibers come from mature nuts and are by-products of copra production. Coir fiber ranges in color from light tan to dark brown. Bristles are sorted according to length and graded on the basis of length, stiffness, color, and cleanliness. Long, clean fibers and light color are desirable for any purpose, but stiffness is desirable in bristles and undesirable for yarn. The principal outlet for bristle fiber has been in brush making, but the market has declined and most bristle fiber is now used in upholstery padding.

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Mattress fiber: Mattress fibers come from mature nuts and are by-products of copra production. Mattress fiber is used chiefly in innerspring mattresses, though it is also used as an insulating material.

The only natural fiber resistant to salt water, coir is used to make nets for shellfish harvesting and ropes for marine applications. Highly resistant to abrasion, coir fibers are used to make durable floor mats and brushes. Strong and nearly impervious to the weather, coir twine is the material hops growers prefer for tying their vines to supports. Coir is becoming a popular choice for making geotextiles because of its durability, eventual biodegradability, ability to hold water, and hairy texture.

COIR INDUSTRY OVERVIEW Although coconut palms grow throughout the world's tropical regions, the majority of the commercially produced coir comes from India and Sri Lanka. More than 90% of coir exports are from

Sri Lanka

India

Together India and Sri Lanka produce 90% of the 250,000 metric tons of coir produced every year.

Other exports are generally from:

Thailand

Tanzania

Mexico

Philippines

Malaysia

Kenya

Trinidad and Tobago. India, mainly the coastal region of Kerala State, produces 60% of the total world supply of white coir fiber. Sri Lanka produces 36% of the total world brown fiber output. Over 50% of the coir fiber produced annually throughout the world is consumed in the countries of origin, mainly India. COIR INDUSTRY IN INDIA Coconuts are primarily a food crop. In India, which produces about one-fourth of the world's 55 billion coconuts each year, only 15% of the husk fibers are actually recovered for use. India annually produces about 309,000 short tons (280,000 metric tons) of coir fiber. Coir processing is an important economic activity in India, where it provides jobs for more than 500,000 people. Because mechanization would eliminate a significant number of those jobs, it is being introduced gradually. In India, a defibering machine

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was invented in 1950. In 1980, India began an ongoing effort to identify and correct technological limitations on coir production. FIBER PROCESSING

Coconut palms flower monthly. Because it takes a year for the fruit to ripen, a tree always contains fruits at 12 stages of maturity. Harvesting usually take place on a 45-60 day cycle, with each tree yielding 50-100 coconuts per year. The Manufacturing Process

Harvesting and husking

Retting

Defibering

Finishing

MAJOR PLAYERS IN THE INDIAN MARKET

Cot Agro India Private Limited R. B. Coir industries KRA Coir products Allwin Coir Product

GOVERNMENT POLICIES As improved technology increases production, industry groups and governmental agencies are actively promoting new uses for coir fiber. Geotextiles is one promising area. The Indian state of Kerala designated 2000 as Coir Geotextiles Year, which it observed by increasing marketing efforts and supporting research to improve production. The annual world demand for geotextiles is 1.2 billion square yards and growing. Although natural fibers account for only 5% of that, the proportion is expected to increase as more users turn away from non biodegradable synthetics.

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MAN- MADE FIBERS

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POLYESTER

Polyester is a strong fiber that is resistant to crease and thus keeps it shape. Polyester melts at medium to high temperatures. Blends of polyester give cotton a permanent press property and extend the wear of these blended garments.

Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery. Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing and manufactured sewing.

THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS Polyester is manufactured by one of several methods. The one used depends on the form the finished polyester will take. The four basic forms of polyester fiber are

Filament: each individual strand of polyester fiber is continuous in length, producing smooth-surfaced fabrics.

Staple: filaments are cut to short, predetermined lengths. In this form polyester is easier to blend with other fibers.

Tow: continuous filaments are drawn loosely together

Fiberfill: voluminous form used in the manufacture of quilts, pillows, and outerwear.

The two forms used most frequently are filament and staple. MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF FILAMENTS

Polymerization Drying Melt spinning Drawing the fiber Winding Manufacturing Staple Fiber Drawing tow Crimping Setting Cutting

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OVERVIEW OF MARKET

Global

Global polyester production capacity stands at 36 million tons, comprising 15 million tons of staple fiber and 21 million tons of filament yarns. Nearly 83 of staple fiber capacity and 89% of filament capacities are in Asia. China accounts for 53% of staple fiber and 57% of filament yarn global capacity. India, Indonesia, South Korea and Taiwan are the other major producers of polyester in the world. Outside Asia, USA and Turkey are the major producers.

In terms of trade, Asia is the net exporter of polyester in the world. In polyester staple fiber segment, South Korea and Taiwan are major exporters while China and USA are major importer. Similarly, in polyester filament market, China, Mexico and Brazil are major importers while South Korea, Taiwan, Mexico, Indonesia and Malaysia are major exporting countries. In 2005, polyester industry was heavily weighed by the rise in crude oil prices which had raised prices of PTA and MEG – the raw material for polyester production.

Domestic

Polyester Filament

Production increased by 12% in India, but decreased for all other major producing countries and regions.

Polyester Staple Fiber

Polyester staple fiber production decreased by 6% in 2006 from the previous year to 11.3 million tons. Production in India grew by 19% to 730,000 tons; as a result, India overtook Taiwan to become the third largest producer.

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The polyester industry expanded 9.5% in terms of value to US$33 billion and by 2% in terms of volume in 2005. During the year, global production of polyester touched 25 million to tons. While staple fiber production grew 2.6%, filaments production increased 1.5%. Polyester accounts for over 75% of all man-made fibers produced in the world. During the last 5-year period ended 2005, polyester production has increased at a rate of 5% per annum. However, the next 4-5 years would see the growth slowing down to around 4% per annum as per the latest report published by www.YarnsandFibers.com: “Polyester Chain Report 2006”

MAJOR PLAYERS IN THE INDIAN MARKET

Reliance Petrochemicals

Ganesh Polytex Limited

Rajasthan Petro synthetics

Sanghi Polyesters Ltd.

Nova Petrochemicals

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NYLON

The Federal Trade Commissions' Definition for Nylon Fiber: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide-linkages are attached directly (-CO-NH-) to two aliphatic groups.

Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers first produced on Feb 28, 1935 by Wallace Carothers at DuPont. Nylon is one of the most common polymers used as a fiber. Nylon can be made to form fibers, filaments, bristles, or sheets to be manufactured into yarn, textiles, and cordage, and it can also be formed into molded products.

Nylon became one of the most versatile fibers of the man-made fabrics. Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fiber. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn‟t cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon melts at high temperatures.

NYLON PRODUCTION

The first approach: combining molecules with an acid (COOH) group on each end are reacted with two chemicals that contain amine (NH2) groups on each end. This process creates nylon 6, 6, made of hexamethylene diamine with six carbon atoms and acidipic acid, as well as six carbon atoms.

The second approach: a compound has an acid at one end and an amine at the other and is polymerized to for a chain with repeating units of (-NH-[CH2]n-CO-)x.

o In other words, nylon 6 is made from a single six-carbon substance called caprolactam.

o In this equation, if n=5, then nylon 6 is the assigned name.

When extruded into fibers through pores in an industrial spinneret, the individual polymer chains tend to align because of viscous flow. If subjected to cold drawing afterwards, the fibers align further, increasing their crystallinity, and the material acquires additional tensile strength. In practice, nylon fibers are most often drawn using heated rolls at high speeds.

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OVERVIEW

As the first synthetic fiber to be introduced in India, starting with a modest volume of 175 tons in 1962, nylon 6 production topped the 10,000-tons mark as early as 1971. It continued to grow fairly rapidly thereafter, at around 9.7% per annum throughout the „70s and first half of the 1980s, reaching a level of 38,867 tons in 1985. However, this growth rate could not be maintained.

Between 1985 and 1999, nylon production exhibited a cyclic pattern, with a sudden drop in volumes in 1991 and 1997. While the production of polyester filament yarn during this period surged from a mere 65,000 tons in 1985 to almost 790,000 tons in 1999, nylon output peaked at 42,160 tons in 1995. By the end of 1999, domestic production had dropped to around 28,000 tons.

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RAYON

Rayon is a regenerated cellulose fiber which is almost pure cellulose. Rayon, made from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong; extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures. Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth, napped, or bulky surface. Rayon will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink when washed.

Technological advancements to the rayon process have produced high wet modulus [HWM] rayon‟s such as lyocell and modal which makes fabric less prone to stretch when damp or wet.

RAYON FIBER PRODUCTION In the production of rayon, purified cellulose is chemically converted into a soluble compound. A solution of this compound is passed through the spinneret to form soft filaments that are then converted or “regenerated” into almost pure cellulose. Because of the reconversion of the soluble compound to cellulose, rayon is referred to as a regenerated cellulose fiber. There are several types of rayon fibers in commercial use today, named according to the process by which the cellulose is converted to the soluble form and then regenerated. Rayon fibers are wet spun, which means that the filaments emerging from the spinneret pass directly into chemical baths for solidifying or regeneration. MARKET OVERVIEW

MAJOR INDIAN PLAYERS

National Rayon Corp. Indian Rayon

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ACRYLIC

Acrylic fibers are synthetic fibers made from a polymer (Polyacrylonitrile) with an average molecular weight of ~100,000. To be called acrylic in the U.S, the polymer must contain at least 85% acrylonitrile monomer. Typical comonomers are vinyl acetate or methyl acrylate. Acrylic is lightweight, soft, and warm, with a wool-like feel. It dyes very well and has excellent colorfastness. It is resilient, retains its shape, and resists shrinkage and wrinkles. It is quite varied in form and sometimes has an appearance similar to wool or cotton. It has recently been used in clothing as a cheaper alternative to cashmere, due to the similar feeling of the materials. The disadvantages of acrylic is that it tends to fuzz (or pill) easily and that it does not insulate the wearer as well as cashmere. Many products like fake pashmina or cashmina use this material to create the illusion of cashmere to the consumer. Acrylic is resistant to moths, oils, and chemicals, and is very resistant to deterioration from sunlight exposure. However, static and pilling can be a problem. General characteristics of the acrylic fiber are:

Outstanding wickability & quick drying to move moisture from body surface Flexible aesthetics for wool-like, cotton-like, or blended appearance Easily washed, retains shape Resistant to moths, oil, and chemicals Dyeable to bright shades with excellent fastness Superior resistance to sunlight degradation

Global Acrylic Staple Fiber production is expected to increase at the rate of 8% per annum between 2006 and 2012. Acrylic fibre accounts for 6.8% in total manmade fiber.

In India the growth in demand from the year 1990-91 to 2001-02 was 6.71 per cent on

the basis of a compounded annual growth rate (CAGR). Usage and consumption of

acrylic fibre in 2002-03 has been estimated higher at 1,16,400 tonnes over 1,04,107

tonnes achieved in 2001-02.

Acrylic Staple Fibre (ASF), a prime raw material for acrylic spinning industry, is used

mainly for knitting and weaving for diverse range of products such as sweater,

cardigans, jersey, muffler, lungies, blouse, carpets, rugs, bed-sheets and towels.

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Acrylic fibre is used as a substitute for wool and other fibres like cotton, nylon and

polyester due to its characteristics such as durability, bulking, superior dry-ability and

easy wash-n-wear properties.

Uses of acrylic fibre in new applications have been increasing. Higher demand potential

of application such as blankets, stuffed toys, upholstery, furnishings and woven

garments was likely to lead to more demand, sources said.

The domestic industry is expected to expand as disposable incomes in the country

increase especially of lower middle class and upper middle class both in urban and rural

areas. An export of textiles from India has high potential but global warming

phenomenon might reduce acrylic fibre demand world over.

Acrylic fiber plants in India are mainly functioning in the organized sector. Currently,

there are only five plants operating in the country. This includes:

Consolidated Fibres and Chemicals

Indian Acrylic

IPCL

Pasupati Acrylon

Vardhman Acrylics

The sixth plant owned by J K Synthetics, is not in operation for more than five years.

Total capacity of the operating plants is around 1.14 lakh tonnes per annum.

Policies

Reduction in custom duty on import of acrylic fibre may lead to increased competition

for domestic manufacturers, he said.

Now Anti- dumping duties on Acrylic fiber has been levied as earlier acrylic spinners

and fiber producers were facing competition from import of acrylic yarn from Nepal; and

dumping of acrylic fiber from other producing countries.

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LYOCELL Lyocell is produced from cellulose, the main material in plant cells, and constitutes a

new fibre for clothing, hygiene, medical and technical applications. The production

process for Lyocell is extremely environmentally friendly – the fibre has all the

advantages of a natural material and is 100% bio-degradable.

Lyocell is made from cellulose in wood pulp, which is harvested from tree-farmed trees. Cellulose is the natural polymer that makes up the living cells of all vegetation. The fiber is produced via an advanced 'closed loop' solvent spinning process, with minimal impact on the environment and economical use of energy and water. It uses a non-toxic solvent which is continually recycled during the production process. Production plant emissions into the air, from smokestacks, and water, from wastewater, are significantly lower in comparison to many other man-made fiber operations.

As with conventionally manufactured cotton fabric, there are many steps and processes involved in taking lyocell from fiber to fabric. The major steps are:

1. Creating a solvent solution from wood pulp 2. Spinning lyocell fiber from the solvent solution 3. Washing lyocell fiber to remove solvents 4. Drying fiber and producing yarns 5. Finishing to produce lyocell fabric

Lyocell Fiber exhibit the following characteristics:

Soft, strong, absorbent Fibrillated during wet processing to produce special textures Excellent wet strength Wrinkle resistant Very versatile fabric dyable to vibrant colors, with a variety of effects and

textures. Can be hand washable Simulates silk, suede, or leather touch Good drapability Biodegradable

The fibre is used for making apparels like dresses, slacks, coats and jeans.

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The major manufacturers of Lyocell in the world are:

Austria Lenzing AG Lyocell (Tencel), Modal, Viskose

Austria Lenzing Fiber GmbH Lyocell (Tencel)

India does not have a significant installed capacity for manufacturing Lyocell fiber in

India.

Globally the demands for lyocell are sharply increasing in Korea as a substitute for

viscose rayon. "Tencel" supplied by Acordis represents lyocell in Korea. 5,000 tons of

lyocell are expected to go into the market against the demand of 4,000 tons in year

2008. According to Tencel Korea, 2,500 tons were imported in the first half 2003 from

various Asian countries.

In China the demand for lyocell is increasing to cover a fall of cotton crops, and

environmental reasons.

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SPANDEX Spandex or elastane is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It is stronger

and more durable than rubber, its major non-synthetic competitor. It was invented in

1959 by DuPont. When first introduced it revolutionized many areas of the clothing

industry.

Spandex is a generic name and not derived from the chemical name of the fiber, which

most manufactured fibers are, but derived by shifting around the letters in the word

expands. “Spandex" is the preferred name in North America; elsewhere it is referred to

as "elastane".

The most famous brand name associated with spandex is Lycra, a trademark of Invista

(formerly part of DuPont). Such is the prominence of the Lycra brand that it has become

a genericised trademark in many parts of the world, used to describe any kind of

spandex. Invista discourages such use, protecting its trademark vigorously. Other

spandex trademarks include Elaspan (also Invista's), ROICA & Dorlastan (Asahi Kasei)

and Linel (Fillattice).

Spandex fibers are produced in four different ways including melt extrusion, reaction

spinning, solution dry spinning, and solution wet spinning. All of these methods include

the initial step of reacting monomers to produce a prepolymer. Once the prepolymer is

formed it is reacted further in various ways and drawn out to produce a long fiber. The

solution dry spinning method is used to produce over 90% of the world's spandex fibers.

Characteristics of Spandex fiber:

Can be stretched over 500% without breaking

Able to be stretched repetitively and still recover original length

Lightweight & Abrasion resistant

Poor strength, but stronger and more durable than rubber

Soft, smooth, and supple

Resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions, and detergents

No static or pilling problem

Market prices of spandex have hit the bottom. Favorable Chinese demand has greatly

contributed to the improvement of the spandex supply-demand balance. China is also

strengthening domestic production of spandex much more.

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According to industrial references, some distributors deliberately restrict sales of

spandex in anticipation of better prices in the near future. However, because of the

concern about further expansion plans, price hikes of spandex still remain weak.

Spandex prices were rapidly worsened in connection with the sharp expansion of

production equipment including expansion of existing equipment and newcomers as

well as fiercer competition in 2000. Many spandex producers announced enlargement

plans in 2000. Moreover, many synthetic fiber producers announced new entries into

spandex production.

Chinese expansions of domestic spandex production are progressing, the demand has

greatly exceeded its production. The improvement of the production process for stretch

products using spandex is progressing without producing a time-lag from spandex

production. The favorable demand for spandex by China is absorbing the expanded

production of spandex in the rest of Asia.

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INDIA CONSOLIDATED

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GOVERNMENT POLICIES

Though still more widely and better known for its cotton varieties, the complexion of the

Indian textile Industry has undergone a major change in the last decade, with polyester

emerging as a major constituent of India‟s fiber mix. The last decade has seen a major

shift from cotton to manmade fibers, which currently account for 40-45% of total fiber

production and more than 55% of domestic consumption.

Schemes for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) and the Technology Upgradation Fund (TUF) to be continued in the Eleventh Plan period. Provision for SITP to be maintained at Rs 450 crore in 2008-09.

Provision for TUF to be increased to Rs 1,090 crore in 2008-09 from Rs 911 crore in 2007-08.

250 clusters being developed and 443 yarn banks established under the cluster approach to the development of the handloom sector.

Over 17 lakh families of weavers to be covered under the health insurance scheme by March 2008. Allocation for this purpose being increased to Rs.340 crore in 2008-09;

Infrastructure and production being scaled up by taking up six centers for development as mega clusters. Varanasi and Sibsagar to be taken up for handlooms, Bhiwandi and Erode for power looms, and Narsapur and Moradabad for handicrafts. Each mega-cluster to require about Rs 70 crore. Initial provision of Rs 100 crore made in 2008-09.

National calamity contingent duty (NCCD) of 1% removed on polyester filament yarn and the levy shifted to cellular mobile phones.

General CENVAT rate on all goods reduced from 16% to 14% FICCI

Excise duty on synthetic fibers, PP fiber and filament yarns along with their raw materials be reduced to 4%

There has been a history of dumping of synthetic fibers for the last several years particularly from the Asian countries such as Taiwan, Korea, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, China etc. The import duty on synthetic fibers is only 7.5%. A study carried out by NCAER has shown that even with 20% import duty, synthetic fibers do not get sufficient protection. It is, therefore, suggested that no further reduction of import duty is made on polyester chips, synthetic fibers.

Specific custom duty on textile products to be continued, if necessary extend certain concessions to member countries of SAFTA.

Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) is pitching for 100% tax exemption on profits from apparel exports

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NATIONAL TEXTILE POLICY -- 2000 Facilitate the Textile Industry to attain and sustain a pre-eminent global standing

in the manufacture and export of clothing; Equip the Industry to withstand pressures of import penetration and maintain a

dominant presence in the domestic market; Liberalize controls and regulations so that the different segments of the textile

industry are enabled to perform in a greater competitive environment; Enable the industry to build world class state-of-the-art manufacturing capabilities

in conformity with environmental standards, and for this purpose to encourage both Foreign Direct Investment as well as research and development in the sector;

Develop a strong multi-fiber base with thrust of product up gradation and diversification;

Sustain and strengthen the traditional knowledge, skills and capabilities of our weavers and craftspeople;

Enrich human resource skills and capabilities, with special emphasis on those working in the decentralized sectors of the Industry; and for this purpose to revitalize the Institutional structure;

Expand productive employment by enabling the growth of the industry, with particular effort directed to enhancing the benefits to the north east region;

Make Information Technology (IT), an integral part of the entire value chain of textile production and thereby facilitate the industry to achieve international standards in terms of quality, design and marketing and;

Involve and ensure the active co-operation and partnership of the State Governments, Financial Institutions, Entrepreneurs, Farmers and Non-Governmental Organizations in the fulfillment of these objectives.

Technology Up gradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) Ministry of Textiles has launched a Technology Up gradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) for Textile and Jute Industries, w.e.f. 1.4.1999 for a period of 5 years, i.e., up to 31st March 2004 which was subsequently extended up to 31.3.2007, i.e., till the end of tenth five year plan. Benefits under the scheme:

5% interest reimbursement of the normal interest charged by the lending agency on RTL.

5% exchange fluctuation (interest & repayment) from the base rate on FCL. 15% credit linked capital subsidy for SSI sector. 20% credit linked capital subsidy for power loom sector (An option for 'front

ended' subsidy provided w.e.f. 1st October, 2005). 5% interest reimbursement plus 10% capital subsidy for specified processing

machinery. Technology levels are benchmarked in terms of specified machinery. There is no cap on funding under the scheme.

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The identified sectors in the textile industry, including spinning, cotton ginning & pressing, silk reeling & twisting wool scouring & combing, synthetic filament yarn texturising, crimping and twisting, manufacturing of viscose filament yarn (VFY) / viscose staple fiber (VSF), weaving/ knitting including non-woven‟s and technical textiles, garments, made-up manufacturing, processing of fibers, yarns, fabrics, garments and made-ups and the jute sector are eligible to avail of these concessional loans for their technology up gradation requirements. Investments in common infrastructure or facilities by an industry association, trust or co-operative society and other investments specified are also eligible for funding under the scheme. Improved metal frame hand looms used by the handloom weavers have also been covered under the scheme. IDBI, SIDBI and IFCI were the nodal agencies for Non-SSI textile sector, SSI textile sector and Jute sector respectively. However, w.e.f. 1st October, 2005, 13 additional nodal banks have been appointed under TUFS for determining eligibility & releasing the subsidy for the cases financed by them. Monitoring and Review of the scheme: For monitoring and review, an Inter-Ministerial Steering Committee (IMSC) under the chairmanship of the Secretary (Textiles) has been constituted. This committee normally meets on a quarterly basis. A Technical Advisory cum Monitoring Committee (TAMC) under the Chairmanship of the Textile Commissioner has also been constituted to interpret, or clarify and technical issues raised by any of the nodal agencies regarding the eligibility of any unit or machinery under the scheme. TAMC also provides technical advice to the IMSC and also monitors the progress on a regular basis. Scheme for Integrated Textiles Parks Though the Indian textile industry has its inherent advantages, infrastructure bottleneck is one of the prime areas of concern. To provide the industry with world-class infrastructure facilities for setting up their textile units, the Scheme for Integrated Textile Park (SITP) was approved in July 2005 to create new textile parks of international standards at potential growth centers. As per the target for the 10th Five Year Plan, 30 Textiles projects have been approved. There has been overwhelming response to the scheme. Taking into consideration the response to the scheme and the opportunities for the growth of textile industry in the quota free regime, the Government of India have decided to continue the SITP in the 11th Five Year Plan. Ten (10) Textiles Park projects will be approved at the first instance. This will facilitate additional investment, employment generation and increase in textiles production. Industry Associations / Groups of Entrepreneurs would be the main promoters of the Textiles Park by forming a Special Purpose Vehicle (SPV) for implementation / management of the project. Ministry of Textiles has engaged eight Project Management Consultants (PMCs) who will help the promoters in formation of SPV, preparation of Detailed Project Reports, etc., for which Ministry of Textiles will pay fee to the PMCs.

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REFERENCES www.google.co.in

www.aepec.com

www.texmin.nic.in

www.texonline.com

www.fiber2fashion.com

www.fiberandyarns.com

www.commodityonline.com

www.indiansilk.kar.nic.in

www.woolboard.nic.in

www.about.com

www.indiastat.com

www.wikipedia.com

www.fabric.net

www.crnindia.net

www.woolboard.nic.in

www.giftsnaccessories.com

www.intexfair.com

www.worldjute.com

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www.bnet.com

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www.emergingtextiles.com

www.sanepr.com