Upload
others
View
1
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Myanmar (Burma) ........................... 210 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 12If You Like... ..................... 14Month by Month ............. 16Itineraries ........................ 18Responsible Travel ......... 21Planning Your Trip .......... 27Regions at a Glance ....... 31
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND MYANMAR (BURMA)
Myanmar (Burma) Today ............................... 290History ............................. 293People of Myanmar (Burma) ........................... 307Politics, Economics & Sanctions .................... 315Environment & Wildlife .. 322Eating in Myanmar (Burma) ........................... 328Religion & Belief ............. 338Arts & Architecture ........ 344Aung San Suu Kyi ........... 352
ches, then, to everyone’s surprise, called a nationalcouldn’t lose. But at the 1990 election the NLD woneats. The military simply refused to transfer power
ted oliticians into jail.Myanmar’s trade with its neighbours (particularly and its membership of Asean, have enabled thetand increased international scorn and Westernry’s aggressive reaction to the 2007 protests (the
exploring the machinations of Myanmar’s
military government.
850 BC
According to Burmese chronicles, Abhiraja
of the Sakiyan clan from India founds
Taguang, 127 miles north of Mandalay; his son travels south and
founds a kingdom at Rakhaing (Arakan).
3rd century BC
The Mon, who migrated into the
Ayeyarwady Delta from present-day Thailand
(and from China before that), establish their capital, Thaton, and
have rst contact with Buddhism.
1st centuryBC
Possible founding oBeikthano (name
after the local word foVishnu), a Pyu toweast of current-da
Magwe; it’s believeto have ourished fo
about 400 year Religion & Belief Faith and superstition go hand in hand in Myanmar. About 89% of thepeople of Myanmar are Buddhist, but many also pay heed to ancientanimist beliefs in natural spirits or nats. Locals are proud of their beliefsand keen to discuss them. Knowing something about Buddhism in par-ticular will help you better understand life in the country.
Freedom of religion is guaranteed under the country’s constitution. However Buddhism is given special status. Myanmar’s ethnic patchwork of people also embraces a variety of other faiths, among which Islam andChristianity are the most popular.
Buddhism The Mon were the rst people in Myanmar to practise Theravada meanin Doctrine of the Elders) Buddhism, the oldest and most conservative form of the reli ion. King Asoka, the great Indian em eror, is known toh i i h (k h h G ld L d’) d i h
ar en f a
Ma
ch ive rch s.
Surreal & TraditionalTo travel here is to encounter men wear-ng skirt-like longyi, women smothered n thanakha (traditional make-up) and
betel chewing grannies with mouths full
the edge of a chasm. Ride acolonial-era mansions. Meemonks who have taught theor feisty elderly Chin womtattooed with intricate desi
Welcome toMyanmar (Burma)
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
1
PAGE
289GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so you
can make sense of what you see
Responsible Travel Key Points
» Travel independently rather than in a big tour group.
» Where possible, avoid using businesses owned by the government or those closely linked with it.
» Spread your money around, ie buy souvenirs across the country, not just in Yangon.
» Don’t compromise locals by your actions or topics of conversation.
» Do talk to locals – they relish outside contact.
» Contribute to local charitable causes.
Advance Reading Culture Shock! Myanmar, Saw Myat Yin To Myanmar with Love, ed Morgan Edwardson Burma/Myanmar: What Everyone Needs to Know, David I Steinberg The River of Lost Footsteps, Thant Myint U Freedom From Fear, Aung San Suu Kyi Perfect Hostage, Justin Wintle Nowhere to Be Home, eds Maggie Lemere and Zoë West
Geographically beautiful and populated gentle people, Myanmar is also notoriofor its human rights abuses. The UnitNations, Amnesty International and Hman Rights Watch are among the marespected bodies who have called the coutry’s military rulers to account for their imprisonment and mistreatment of politicdissidents, use of forced labour, and violecrackdowns on peaceful demonstrations, witnessed in September 2007.
Many countries, including the US, Caada, Australia and those of the EuropeUnion, have and continue to apply economsanctions. In 1995 the NLD also called fortourism boycott (see p 318 ), which led to cricism of previous editions of this guidebooIn 2010 this controversial travel boycott wo cially dropped by the NLD, who now wcome independent tourists who are mindfof the political and social landscape; hoever, those on large group package tours adiscouraged.
Lonely Planet believes the answer to tquestion of whether to visit Myanmar something that everyone has to decide fthemselves; the box on p 22 sums up the mjor pros and cons. If you do go, this guihas been researched and designed to mamise how much of your travel budget godirectly to local people and minimise homuch goes to the regime.
The chapters on p 290 , p 293 and p 31are all good starting points for getting grips with the past and current situation
CR
ED
IT
Shwedagon Paya 1 Is there a more stunning monument to religion in Southeast Asia? We don’t think so. In fact, the
sheer size and mystical aura of Yangon’s gilded masterpiece may even cause you to question your inner atheist. But it’s not all about quiet contemplation: Shwedagon Paya (p 71 ) is equal parts religious pilgrimage and amusement park and your visit may coincide with a noisy ordination
CR
ED
IT 10 TOP EXPERIENCES
Top Events Water Festival (Thingyamid-April Taungbyone Nat Pwe FeAugust or early Septemb
Independence Day, 4 Ja
Tazaungmon, October or November Ananda Pahto Festival, January
Nearly every active paya (Buddhist temple) or ky-aung (Buddhist monastery) community hosts occasional celebrations of their own, often called paya pwe or ‘pagoda festivals’. Many occur on full-moon days and nights from January to March, following the main rice harvest, but the build-up can last for a while. All such festivals follow the
a week-long one at Kandaw-gyi Lake (p 48 ) in Yangon.
�zManao Festival Costumed dancing,
copious drinking of rice beer and 29 cows or bu alo sacri ced to propitiate nats (traditional spirits) are part of this Kachin State Day event, held in Myitkyina on 10 January (p 236 )
(p 51 ), the largest payin Myanmar.
April While joining in thefrolics of Thingyan be fun, note that itsteaming hot in Myduring this month. with many locals of
Month by Month
16 Looking for other travel resources?
LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters
MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine
EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks
APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile
twitter.com/lonelyplanet
facebook.com/lonelyplanet
lonelyplanet.com/newsletter
STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact
AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111
USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572
UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT%020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101
Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.
Get the right guides for your trip
PHRASEBOOKSSHOESTRING• Big trips,
small budgets• Multicountry
Lonely Planet in numbers70 languages spoken by our writers
12 seconds pass between posts on our Thorn Tree travel forum
100,000,000 Lonely Planet guidebooks sold, and still counting
190+ countries covered by a Lonely Planet guide
SHOEHOESTRISTRINGNG•Big trips
OKSOKSPHPHHRAHRASEBOSEBOOOHEALTHY TRAVEL
myanmar-11-cover.indd 2myanmar-11-cover.indd 2 31/08/2011 11:08:09 AM31/08/2011 11:08:09 AM
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
John Allen,Allen John Smith, Jamie Smith
#̂
#̂
NorthernMyanmar
p233
EasternMyanmar
p166
WesternMyanmar
p268
Yangonp36
AroundYangon
p73
SoutheasternMyanmar
p91
Mandalay& Around
p199
Bagan &Central
Myanmarp111
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings
and insider tips
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A–Z ................. 360Transport ........................ 371Health .............................. 383Language ........................ 387Index ................................ 399 Map Legend .................... 407
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE ROAD
Accommodation Myanmar has hundreds of privately run hotels and guesthouses licensed to accept foreigners. To get he licence they supposedly
ust keep at least ve rooms reach a certain standard.
many are simple fam-uesthouses or mini-
metimes with just t, a fan that
ht (when a
tiled rooms with air-con, a refrigerator and a private bath with hot water.
Nearly all accommodation choices include breakfast in their rates. Sta at most can also change money, arrange for laundry service (starting at K1000 per load at budget guesthouses), rent bikes, arrange taxis, sell transport tickets, and nd you local English-speaking guides.
At night, all hotels and other accommodation options must ll in po
ho(Mar
Listiordered band dividewith regard » budget (do$20)» midrange (doto $60)» top end (over
Business H Government o cluding post o telephone centrMonday to Frid4.30pm. Shopday to Saturdto 6pm or laonly half-dRestaura9pm, wopenbo
Directory A–Z
PAGE
34
PAGE
359
p149Temples of Bagan
Look out for these icons:
o Our author’s recommendation S A green or
sustainable option F No payment required
YANGON . . . . . . . . . . . 36
AROUND YANGON . . . 73DELTA REGION . . . . . . . . . . . 74Thanlyin & Kyauktan . . . . . . 74Twante . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Pathein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Chaung Tha Beach . . . . . . . .80Ngwe Saung Beach . . . . . . .83Around Ngwe Saung . . . . . .85NORTH OF YANGON . . . . . . 85Taukkyan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85Bago (Pegu) . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR . . . . . . . . . . 91MON STATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) . . . . . . . . . . . .93Mawlamyine (Moulmein) . .96Around Mawlamyine . . . . . 101KAYIN STATE . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Hpa-an . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Around Hpa-an . . . . . . . . . .108TANINTHARYI (TENASSERIM) REGION . . 110
BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR . . . . . . . . . .111BAGAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113Nyaung U . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Old Bagan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Myinkaba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123New Bagan (Bagan Myothit) . . . . . . . . . 124
On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
AROUND BAGAN . . . . . . . . 126Mt Popa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Salay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Pakokku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Monywa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130Around Monywa . . . . . . . . . 132Myingyan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135YANGON–MANDALAY HIGHWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Taungoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Nay Pyi Taw . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Meiktila . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141YANGON–BAGAN HIGHWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Pyay (Prome) . . . . . . . . . . . 143Around Pyay . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Magwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
TEMPLES OF BAGAN . . . . . . . . . . . . 149THE TEMPLES . . . . . . . . . . . 153Old Bagan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154North Plain . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Central Plain . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Myinkaba Area . . . . . . . . . . 161New Bagan Area . . . . . . . . . 163South Plain . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Nyaung U Area . . . . . . . . . . 164
EASTERN MYANMAR . . . . . . . . . 166THAZI TO INLE LAKE . . . . . 167Thazi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Kalaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Pindaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
INLE LAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177Nyaungshwe . . . . . . . . . . . . 178The Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Around Inle Lake . . . . . . . . 188KENGTUNG & BORDER AREAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Kengtung (Kyaingtong) . . . 193Tachileik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197KAYAH STATE . . . . . . . . . . . 198
MANDALAY & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . 199MANDALAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201AROUND MANDALAY . . . . 223Amarapura. . . . . . . . . . . . . .224Ayeyarwady Bridges . . . . .225Inwa (Ava) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225Sagaing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228Mingun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230Paleik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Yankin Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
NORTHERN MYANMAR . . . . . . . . .233MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADY . . . . . . . . . . . 235Myitkyina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236Around Myitkyina . . . . . . . . 241Myitkyina to Bhamo . . . . .242Bhamo (Banmaw) . . . . . . .242Around Bhamo . . . . . . . . . .244Bhamo to Katha . . . . . . . . .244Katha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245Katha to Kyaukmyaung . . .246Kyaukmyaung . . . . . . . . . . .246
Shwebo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247Around Shwebo . . . . . . . . .249MANDALAY TO LASHIO . . . 250Pyin Oo Lwin . . . . . . . . . . . 250Around Pyin Oo Lwin . . . . .255Kyaukme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257
Hsipaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258Around Hsipaw . . . . . . . . . .262Lashio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .263THE FAR NORTH . . . . . . . . . 266
WESTERN MYANMAR . . . . . . . . .268RAKHAING STATE . . . . . . . 270Ngapali Beach . . . . . . . . . . .270Thandwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Sittwe (Akyab) . . . . . . . . . .275Mrauk U (Myohaung) . . . .279Around Mrauk U . . . . . . . . 286CHIN STATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung) . . . . . . . . . .287Kalaymyo (Kalay) . . . . . . . 288
Mra
uk U
Dis
cove
r th
e fo
rmer
Rak
hain
g ca
pita
l (p2
79)
Inle
Lak
eFi
sher
men
, rui
ned
stup
asan
d flo
atin
g m
arke
ts (p
177)
Pyin
Oo
Lw
inCo
ol o
ff at
this
hill
stat
ion
(p25
0)
Kal
awTr
ek o
ut to
min
ority
villa
ges
(p17
0)
Hsi
paw
Spri
ngbo
ard
for
disc
over
ing
trib
al v
illag
e lif
e (p
258)
Bag
anA
maz
ing
plai
n of
anci
ent t
empl
es (p
113)
KA
CH
INST
ATE
MA
ND
ALA
YD
IVIS
ION
SHA
NST
ATE
CH
INST
ATE
SAG
AIN
GD
IVIS
ION
MA
GW
ED
IVIS
ION
RA
KH
AIN
GST
ATE
Puta
o
Sum
prab
um
Mon
g Pi
ngK
engt
ung
Mon
g La
Myi
tkyi
na
Rui
liM
u-se
Nam
khamBh
amo
Kha
mti
Hpa
kant
Kaw
linn
Kat
ha
Hsi
paw
Lash
io
Kya
ukm
e
Nam
hsan
Shw
ebo
Ye-U
Lwin
Myi
ngya
n
Am
arap
ura
Saga
ing
Min
igun
Pyin
Oo
Mog
ok
Man
dala
y
Pind
aya
Kya
ukse
THIM
PH
U
Tam
u
Maw
laik Pa
kokk
uPa
letw
a
Hak
ha
Tidd
im
DH
AK
A
Nya
ung
U
Mon
ywa
Kal
aym
yo
Hom
ilin
Mae
Sai
Loi-
Mw
e
Tach
ileik
Chi
ang
Rai
Nya
ungs
hwe
Law
pita
Loik
aw
Mag
we
Kya
ukpa
daun
g
Taun
gdw
ingy
iN
AY
PYI
TAW
Taun
ggyi
Kal
aw
Pyin
man
a
Nam
sang
Sala
y
Min
bya
Mra
uk U
Sitt
we
Tekn
afM
aung
daw
Min
bu
Mei
ktila
Kun
hing
Loile
mBa
gan
Hka
kabo
Raz
i(1
9,32
1ft)
(10,
016f
t) Rak h i nga
Mt
Vic
tori
a
20º
N
Inda
wgy
iL
ake
Inle
Lak
e
Pan
gsaw
Pas
s
S h
a n
P
l a
t e
a u
River
RiverThanlwin
River
verRi
arwa Ayeydy
River
Bra
hmap
utra
Chindwin
River
Gan
ges
Riv
er
Chindwin
Mek
ong
Ayeyarwady
VIE
TNA
M
LA
OS
CH
INA
(TIB
ET)
CH
INA
BH
UTA
N
IND
IA
BA
NG
LA
DESH
Pop
aM
t
200
km12
0 m
iles
0 0
Top
Exp
erie
nces
›› M
yanm
ar (B
urm
a)
Nga
pali
Bea
chSu
perb
san
d, s
unan
d se
afoo
d (p
270)
Shw
edag
on P
aya
Daz
zlin
g te
mpl
ein
Yan
gon
(p43
)
Mt K
yaik
tiyo
A g
ilded
, gra
vity
-def
ying
rock
(p93
)
ofGul
f
Tha
iland
Mot
tam
aofGul
f
Ben
gal
Bay
of
Aye
yarw
ady
S E
AA
N D
A M
A N
Mou
ths
of th
e
STA
TEK
AYA
H
STA
TEK
AY
IN
MO
NST
ATE
DIV
ISIO
N
DIV
ISIO
NYA
NG
ON
BA
GO
DIV
ISIO
NTA
NIN
THA
RY
I
DIV
ISIO
NA
YEY
AR
WA
DY
VIE
NTI
AN
E
Mae
Sot
Pasa
uwng
Pyay Shw
edau
ngTa
ungo
o Kya
ikto
Hpa
-an
That
on
Kaw
kare
ik
Sets
e
Yaky
i
Twan
te
Ded
aye
Yango
n
Letk
hokk
onK
unya
ngonBago
Maw
lam
yine
Kya
ikm
araw
BA
NG
KO
K
Sang
khla
buri
Pala
w
Mye
ik
Bokp
yin
Tani
ntha
ryi
Ye Zalu
t
Mau
ngm
akan
Paya
thon
zu
Yeby
u
Daw
ei
Than
byuz
ayat
Kya
ukpy
uR
amre
e
Taun
ggok
Gw
a
Kan
thay
a
Mya
ungm
ya
Ngw
e Sa
ung
Cha
ung
Tha
Beac
h
Nga
pali
Beac
hTh
andw
e
Pada
ung
Hin
thad
a
Path
ein
Ran
ong
Kaw
thou
ng
B a g oY o m a
amoY10
4º E
18º
N
16º
N
14º
N
12º
N
100º
E98
º E
96º
E94
º E
92º
E90
º E
10º
N
102º
E
Kyu
n
Man
aung
Yin
nbye
Kyu
n (IN
DIA
)Is
land
sA
ndam
an
Thr
ee P
agod
as P
ass
Mye
ikA
rchi
pela
go
River
River
Sittoung
y
CA
MB
OD
IA
THA
ILA
ND
ExpresswayYangon-Mandalay
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
John Allen Coordinating Author; Bagan & Central Myanmar, Temples of Bagan, Western Myanmar Before his fi rst visit to Myanmar in 2001, ‘John’ took advice from experts and fellow travellers on whether he should go to what he knew was a brutal military dictatorship. He found a country brimming with beautiful sights and gentle people who were delighted to have the chance to interact with those from beyond their borders. A freelance author and photographer who has produced many guides for Lonely Planet since 1999, including several in Southeast Asia, John was delighted to return to the country a decade later as the coordinating author of this guidebook.
Allen John Smith Around Yangon, Eastern Myanmar, Southeastern Myanmar, Yangon ‘Allen’ fi rst visited Myanmar in the late ’90s while working as an English teacher in Bangkok. Despite several subsequent visits, never did he suspect that later he’d be authoring the very book that fi rst guided him there. A native of Oregon transplanted to Southeast Asia, Smith is a freelance writer and photographer who likes writing about and taking photos of food most of all, because it’s delicious.
Jamie Smith Mandalay & Around, Northern Myanmar ‘Jamie’ is the author of several travel guidebooks cover-ing Southeast Asia. And like many frequent visitors to the region, it’s Myanmar that has long been his favourite destination thanks in great part to the stoic humanity and spontaneous delight of its long-suff ering people. When not researching travel publications, Jamie is most likely to be found in suburban Belgium, coastal England or in Azerbaijani jazz clubs playing the same old blues riff s he learnt 20 years ago in Japan.
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98311th edition – Dec 2011ISBN 978 1 74179 469 4© Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 201110 9 8 7 6 5 4 3Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’