All Natural Horse Care_ebook

All Natural Horse Care E-bookgive your horse the best care, naturally

Covers all aspects of Natural Horse Care including Natural Boarding, Horsemanship, Health and Hoof Care

All Natural Horse Care ebook

Copyright © 2009. All rights reserved worldwide.

No part of this ebook may be reproduced or given away without the written permission of the publisher and/or authors. The information contained within these pages is intended for educational purposes only, and not for diagnosing or medicinally prescribing in any way. Readers are cautioned to seek expert advice from a qualified health professional before pursuing any

form of treatment for their animals. Opinions expressed herein are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. All Natural Horse Care accepts no liability of any kind for any losses or damages caused or alleged to be caused,

directly or indirectly, from using the information contained in this book.

About this book

This book is created from the information on the All Natural Horse Care website, and includes “Quick Links” on the outside edge of each page which will take you to the relevant webpage. If you have the pdf version you will be able to click on those links (just move your mouse over the link and click) and the page will automatically open in your web browser. The All Natural Horse Care website is continually being updated so is always worth visiting for new information.

Also, in the pdf version, you can jump to any section you want from the content page - just click on the topic of your choice and you will be taken to that page. To return to the contents page just click on the “back to contents” arrow at the bottom of each page.

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Do you want to provide the best life possible for your horse? Then All Natural Horse Care will show you how! We focus on putting the horse’s needs first by taking a wholistic approach and allowing him to be a horse - which is by far the best gift you can give him.

For those who have only ever known conventional horse keeping methods, this approach may at first seem to go against almost everything you know. This is because convention methods tend to have developed from the human perspective - things that make it easier for the human, such as rugging to keep a horse clean, or stabling because we like to live inside so we think the horse does too. However, this does not meet your horse’s physiological needs.

Horses are prey animals who are happiest when living in wide open spaces and in a herd. They don’t care about fancy rugs and expensive stalls. They just need the social contact of equals, room to stretch their legs and to be a horse. By allowing them to do this you will have a horse that is less stressed, more althletic and overall much healthier.

This ebook aims to provide information about all aspects of natural horse care in one convenient location. That way you can make informed choices easily and you don’t have to waste precious time seeking information - time you can spend developing your relationship with your horse instead!

Natural horse care is my passion. For me it has been a wonderful journey and has opened my eyes up to a whole other world that goes way beyond just horses. I would love to share that with you. You’ll be surprised by how just making small changes can dramatically improve not only your horse’s quality of life but often his lifespan too.

Find answers to the following questions, plus much, much more:

• How can I modify my horse’s living conditions to provide a more natural lifestyle?

• How can I tell how healthy my horses’ hooves are?

• Which training method will help overcome barriers and improve my relationship with my horse?

• What feeds and supplements are best for my horse’s needs?

Hello, what a wonderful site!

Very concise and easy to read with great info on everything natural for horses. I have been involved in natural therapies and training with horses for the past 11 years. I am constantly searching for new and up-to-the-minute techniques or advancements in the field of natural horse care and psychology. Congratulations on your site. Very nice to have found you guys.

Best wishes, Sascha

I am happy to have stumbled across your site. It has a whole bunch of great information with good diagrams.

I have been trimming my own horse for about a year now and I am always looking for more information.

Thanks Debbie

I love your site, it is an excellent resource.

Thank you, Anne

You have an amazing gift of making things that are typically hard to understand, easy to understand.

Dean

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Contents

Introduction

About the Author ....................... 5

Natural Health ........................... 6• Feeding ................................. 6• Vitamins & Minerals ................ 8• Herbs ..................................10• Supplements ........................11

Natural Boarding ......................13• Herdlife ................................13• Living Outside .......................13• Movement ............................15• Paddock Paradise...................16

Natural Trim .............................20• Hoof Diagrams ......................21• Coffin Bone photos ................23• Hoof Evaluation .....................25• Taking Good Hoof Photos ........30• Equine Hoof Problems & Photo Consultations ............33• Barefoot Hooves in Action .......34

Trim Styles ...............................36• Applied Equine Podiatry ..........36• Barefoot For Soundness .........38• Gene Ovnicek .......................39• Pete Ramey ..........................41• LIM Trim ..............................42

Common Hoof Disorders ...........46• Laminitis/Founder ..................46• Navicular ..............................52• Forward Foot Syndrome .........55• Toe Rocker ...........................58

Hoof Boots ................................62Soaking Boots• Davis Horse Boot ...................69• EasySoaker ..........................70• Smart Soaking Boot ...............71

Therapy Boots• Easyboot RX .........................72• Soft-Ride Comfort Boot ..........73• Saber Sneaker Rehab Boot .....74• Castle Plastics Hoof Boot ........75• Hoofix Emergency Boot ..........76• Equine Slipper.......................77

Riding Boots• Boa Horse Boot .....................78• Easyboot Bare.......................79• Marquis Hoof Boot .................80• Old Mac’s .............................81• Easyboot Epic .......................82• Renegade Hoof Boot ..............83• Hoofwing Hoof Boot ...............84• Easyboot Grip .......................85• Simple Boot ..........................86• Swiss Horse Boot ..................87• Easyboot Glove .....................88• Horse-Mocs ..........................89

Glue On Boots• Easyboot Glue On ..................90• Marquis Glue On ....................91• Renegade Glue On .................92

Natural Horsemanship ..............93• Mark Rashid ..........................94• Tom Dorrance .......................95• Brent Graef ..........................96• Linda Tellington-Jones ............97• Monty Roberts ......................98

Homemade Rope Halter Instructions ...................99

Horse Facts ............................102

Glossary .................................105



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My name is Jenny Edwards and I am the owner and creator of All Natural Horse Care. I was born in Canada, but lived in the UK until my mid 30s.

I have been involved with horses most of my life and have competed in many different disciplines including the European Championship for Western Riding in Munich in 1988.

I started out my career working at a large riding stable, where I was introduced to many different horse activities including: English (dressage, cross-country, show jumping, showing, quarter horse racing and general pleasure riding) and Western (showmanship, horsemanship, pleasure, trail, western riding, reining and trail riding) styles; breeding; teaching and training (both English and Western).

In 1990 I decided to undertake a career change as I wanted to spend more time with my own animals so I retrained, becoming a graphic designer.

In 2005 I decided to move back to Canada with my three horses - Tuff n Classy Two, Charlie and Pip, plus my two cats and two dogs - to fulfill my dream of having my own farm.

I have always been of the opinion that all animals in our care should lead as natural a life as possible, but I really got into the ‘natural’ horse movement after my horse Tuffy was lamed by a farrier in 2000. After trying and failing to fully recover his health with traditional methods for treating the ensuing laminitis and rotation I came across the barefoot movement. This journey opened me up to so many wonderful experiences and I have never looked back.

Since 2000 I have been learning all I can about barefoot trimming methods and I now put that knowledge to good use by offering a trimming service to horses in my area.

My six horses (I have since adopted another four, Zeus, Jasper and Sparky (who are rescues/rehabs) and Montana - more information below) live as natural a life as possible utilizing the Paddock Paradise system. I keep them all barefoot and ride in treeless saddles and bitless bridles. They eat a natural grass (and grass hay) diet with some supplements and are only wormed when necessary. I do not have them routinely vaccinated, apart from a ten yearly tetanus shot.

I would like to take this opportunity to say a big thank you to Andrew, my very supportive other half. His love and unfailing support - and many carpentry talents - have enabled me to achieve all this, and together we try to provide all of our animals with the best life possible.

About the Author

About Us:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/Jenny_Edwards.html

Contact:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/contact.html


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Natural horse health covers many topics including feeding, supplements, natural horse remedies, herbs, alternative therapies, natural horse vets, horse vaccines and worming.

Feeding for Natural Horse HealthThe horse feeding industry is a big money business but in many cases it is not based on the natural requirements (or best interest) of the horse.

Horses are foragers/grazers who in the wild, would travel over great distances to obtain food and water as the wild grasses are low in nutrition. In it’s natural environment the horse grazes for approximately 18-20 hours per day. The relatively small stomach and large gut are perfectly suited for this. If the stomach is left empty for prolonged periods (as often happens with stabled horses) the stomach lining can become damaged.

The majority of the food digestion takes place by bacteria in the large intestine. These bacteria continually reproduce and are kept at appropriate levels by the movement of the gut contents. If the food intake is reduced then the bacteria levels become out of balance which could result in colic. Also as there are different types of bacteria needed for processing different food substances sudden changes in diet can cause gut disturbances and lead to colic. Grain is not easily digested by the horse as it did not encounter it in the wild so the digestive system is not evolved to cope with it.

Therefore the safest diet to feed to a horse is grass or grass hay on a free choice basis. However, due to current farming practices which aim to increase the nutritional value of pasture grasses, many fields are now too rich for safe grazing. This means that you may have to restrict the amount of grass available to your horse (see ideas on how to do this on the ‘Paddock Paradise’ page) to prevent illnesses such as laminitis which can be triggered by high levels of sugar in the grass. Hay is a much safer alternative to be used when horse feeding and it can also be soaked in clean, warm water for 30 minutes (or for an hour in cold water) before feeding to further reduce the sugar levels if necessary.

Natural Horse Health - for a healthy body

Horse Health:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-horse-health.html

Horse Feeding:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-feeding.html

Supplements:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-hoof-supplement.html

Vitamins & Minerals:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-horse-vitamins.html

Jiaogulan:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/Jiaogulan.html

Paddock Paradise:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/paddock-paradise.html


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-horse-health.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-feeding.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-hoof-supplement.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-horse-vitamins.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/Jiaogulan.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/paddock-paradise.html


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Average calorie needs for a mature 1,100lbs horse:

Maintenance: 16.4Mcal = 19lbs hay (approx 2% of body weight)Breeding Stallion: 20.5Mcal = 25lbs hayMare, late pregnancy: 19.7Mcal = 23lbs hayMare, lactating 28.3Mcal = 33lbs hay(first 3 months): Mare, lactating 24.3Mcal = 28.5lbs hay(after 3 months):Light work: 20.5Mcal = 25lbs hayMedium work: 24.6Mcal = 29lbs hayHeavy work: 32.8Mcal = 38.5lbs hay(from The Horse Journal: Guide to Equine Supplements and Nutraceuticals by Eleanor Kellon, VMD).

Eating PositionThe horse’s body has evolved to work most efficiently when eating at ground height. When a horse puts it’s head down to eat the lower jaw drops forward and then when the horse lifts it’s head to chew the jaw slides back. This forward and backward motion helps to grind the teeth and keep them at the optimum length. Obviously this does not occur when the horse is fed from a hay net or rack. This is why it is important to provide food at ground level. Here is a website that has some great ideas on how to accomplish this: www.swedishhoofschool.com/hayfeeders.htm

The airway is also designed to work best when the head is held long and low. A high head position puts a bend in the airway which impedes inhaled air. This means that any foreign particles that are inhaled, such as dust from hay, are more likely to hit the walls of the airway and embed in the mucous membranes. This in turn allows germs and viruses to enter the tissues.

The horse’s spine is suspended between the withers and is raised and lowered by the tension created through the ligaments when the head is raised and lowered. By feeding from the ground there is less strain on the muscles to maintain a correct posture.


http://www.swedishhoofschool.com/hayfeeders.htm


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Vitamins and MineralsAll horses need certain vitamins and minerals for a variety of body function and many are vital to good health. However, healthy horses on good pasture usually don’t need any extra vitamins, except maybe for vitamin E if the horse is working very hard. But when horses are on a grass hay diet, supplementation of vitamin E at 1,000 IU per day is beneficial (2,000 IU if in hard work).

Minerals are slightly more complicated as they can compete with each other for absorption so they need to be feed in the correct amounts in relation to each other.

Ca:P (Calcium:Phosphorus) ratio should be between 2:1 and 1.2:1Ca:Mg (Calcium:Magnesium) ratio should be 2:1Cu:Fe (Copper:Iron) ratio should be 1:4Cu:Zn:Mn (Copper:Zinc:Manganese) ratio should be between 1:3:3 to 1:5:5

Before supplementing any vitamins and minerals it is best to find out what amounts your horse is already getting through his current diet. To do this you can get your pasture and/or hay analyzed. See the article on supplements for more details.

Below is a list of vitamins and minerals with a short description of ways in which they can be beneficial to your horse.

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) Used to fight infection and help with snake bites.

Available forms Powdered and injectable. Available from www.herbcom.com for approx $14 per pound.

Dosage As a preventative: 20g twice a day for an adult horse.With an active illness or infection: 20g four times a day for an adult horse.

Horse Health:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-horse-health.html

Horse Feeding:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-feeding.html

Supplements:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-hoof-supplement.html

Vitamins & Minerals:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-horse-vitamins.html




http://www.herbcom.com

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-horse-health.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-feeding.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-hoof-supplement.html





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MagnesiumUseful in horses and ponies with cresty necks and fat deposits as the magnesium helps break them down. In a normal diet the ratio of calcium to magnesium should be 2:1. Horses can suffer from a magnesium deficiency if the diet contains too much calcium in relation to the magnesium.

Available forms Organic or chelated (those found in foods, such as magnesium gluconate and magnesium asparatate) and inorganic (found in the soil, such as magnesium sulfate and magnesium oxide). The organic forms are more readily absorbed.

Human feed grade quality magnesium is available from www.herbcom.com for around $9 per pound or you can get an animal feed grade - which is not as pure as it is only guaranteed at 56% magnesium - manufactured by Pestell (called either CalMag or BayMag) from your feed store. I personally use Pestell’s CalMag and it is around $15 for a 25kg bag.

Dosage Start with approx 3 grams per day for a small pony and up to 12 grams for a large/heavy horse for the first three weeks when you should see signs of changes in the fat deposits. Then the dose can be halved for 6 - 8 weeks and once the fat has normalized then a maintenance dose should be calculated based on hay/grass analysis.

Salt and IodineHorses need to have salt available to them at all times. In the summer they need it to replace the salt lost through sweating and in winter they need it to ensure they drink enough water to prevent colic.

Loose salt is best as it is hard for the horse to get enough salt from a salt block and salt blocks often contain other minerals that are detrimental to the horse when consumed in the large quantities needed to get the correct dosage of salt.

Iodine is also very important for the horse so I use iodized table salt directly into their feed bucket - that way I know they are getting enough salt. Also by providing 2 oz of iodized salt you will ensure that the daily requirement for iodine is met.

Dosage At least 2 oz a day in summer (can be up to 3-4 oz if working hard in hot weather) and at least 1 oz a day in winter.

Herbs & Minerals:www.herbcom.com





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HerbsHerbs can be very beneficial for a range of conditions and illnesses. Below is a list of such herbs:

Jiaogulan - (Gynostemma pentaphyllum)Jiaogulan (jow-goo-lawn) grows wild in China, as well as many other countries throughout Asia, and is known there as the ‘immortality’ herb as it has such a long list of rejuvenating properties.

It is classed as an ‘adaptogen’ - a herb that helps your body without causing any harm or imbalance. It has also been called “the herbal heart defender” due to the positive effects this herb has on cardio-vascular health.

Japanese scientists began discovering it’s illness-prevention and therapeutic qualities in the late 1970s. They found that it functions as both an adaptogenic and an antioxidant herb and it contains many health giving saponins (chemical compounds which have a soapy characteristic), as well as amino acids, trace minerals, proteins and vitamins. These saponins are responsible for the herb’s effectiveness as an anti-inflammatory.

Recent trials by Eleanor Kellon VMD on the Equine Cushing Yahoo Egroup http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/EquineCushings have shown that Jiaogulan helps address the problems with circulation during laminitis that can contribute to pain and delay healing. It must, however only be used after you have identified and removed the cause of the laminitis and applied a rigorous hoof care regime.

If the horse or pony is insulin resistant or has Cushing’s disease then these issues need to be dealt with first.

DosageAn approximate dosage would be in the region of 1/2-2 tsp per day of the powdered form for a 1000 lb horse. However, this is a wide range and some horses do better with less so you will need to adjust for your horse. Increased energy levels and alertness are key signs of improvement. Ideally it should be administered twice a day (halving the daily dosage) 20 minutes before feeding.

PrecautionsDo not use with bute or flunixine as they may block or counteract the effect.If used at the same time as other adaptogenic herbs (ie ginsengs) the effect may be counteracted or enhanced so dosage adjustments may be necessary.Do not use with other vasodilating drugs.May not work if used with other laminitis supplements.

Equine Cushings/IR:http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/EquineCushings


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SupplementsThere are now so many horse supplements available - many of which claim to improve the condition of the hooves offering an almost overnight improvement. But are these claims true? And how can you tell if your horse really needs a supplement?

Let’s look at it in a logical fashion. The most visible part of the hoof, the outer hoof wall, tends to grow on average about 1cm (3/8”) per month. This growth originates at the coronary band at the top of the hoof and works it’s way down to the ground, taking approximately 9 months to grow an entirely new hoof. So logically, if there is any improvement from feeding a horse hoof supplement it is only going to show up in the new growth and you will need to keep feeding it for at least 2-3 months before you will really see if it is working or not.

So if the product claims instant improvement then a warning bell should be ringing...

How can I tell if it’s working?The easiest way is by studying the outside of the hoof - as the outer hoof wall is a great indicator of hoof health. If it is smooth and solid looking then you probably have a pretty healthy hoof, nutrition-wise, so a horse hoof supplement is not required.

However if you have wrinkles, ridges or cracks then this is the hoof’s way of telling you that you need to look deeper into the nutritional needs of your horse.

Poor hoof quality is often a direct result of the horse not getting adequate amounts of the essential nutrients it requires. But how do you find out what is lacking? Well, first you need to look at what you are feeding your horse. Is it biologically correct, ie is it the types of food that the horse has evolved to eat? Horses have evolved to be foragers and need to eat small amounts almost constantly so their ideal diet is grass or grass hay.

However, grass can vary greatly in it’s nutritional composition as it is dependent on the minerals available in the soil. So if your soil is deficient in a certain mineral then the grass will also be deficient. See www.safergrass.org for lots of great info on the subject of grass.

The best way to find out what your grass or hay contains is to get an analysis done at either www.equi-analytical.com or www.uenutrition.com/hayanaalysis.cfm which is pretty easy to do and only costs around $35-$40.

Once you have the results you will then have a much better idea of what nutrients your horse is currently getting and you will be able to make an informed decision on the appropriate horse hoof supplement to give. If you don’t get your grass or hay tested then

Safer Grass:www.safergrass.org

Hay Analysiswww.uenutrition.com/hayanaalysis.cfmwww.equi-analytical.com


http://www.safergrass.org

http://www.equi-analytical.com

http://www.uenutrition.com/hayanaalysis.cfm


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you have no idea of what might be lacking and you will more than likely end up wasting lots of money (as most of the horse hoof supplements are very expensive) and not getting any positive results.

Custom supplementsOnce you have your analysis you then have two choices. The first is to find an “off the shelf” horse hoof supplement that provides the missing nutrients. This may be easier said than done as a lot of supplements don’t contain the correct ratio of minerals. If the ratio balance between minerals is incorrect the body won’t be able to use them properly and this could lead to other problems.

The second choice is not quite as simple but it is the most cost-effective and will ensure that your horse gets everything he needs and that is to design a custom mineral supplement. You can either do this yourself or there are companies like Horsetech www.horsetech.com or Uckele www.uckeleequinenutrition.com who will do it for you.

If you do decide to do it yourself please make sure you fully understand the calculations and order the correct amounts of each mineral as the wrong figures could seriously harm your horse. To avoid this you can use the services of Dr Kellon www.drkellon.com who, for around $100, will do a consultation for you.

Mineral Suppliers:www.horsetech.comwww.uckeleequinenutrition.com

Consultations:www.drkellon.com


http://www.horsetech.com

http://www.uckeleequinenutrition.com

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Natural boarding recognizes the fact that horses are herd animals who need the company of other horses 24 hours a day. They need to interact by touching and playing. Through evolution as a herd animal, horses are programmed to know that safety is in numbers. So a solitary horse is often a stressed horse.

Natural boarding methods are based on the study of how horses live in the wild. They are designed to meet the basic physiological needs of the horse and are the foundation of all natural horse care.

Below is a list of the horses’ natural lifestyle needs:

Herdlife - the company of other horses/poniesHorses are very social animals so herdlife is very important to them. In the wild their lives often depend on it. They feel safer in open spaces where they can see all around them. As prey animals they have evolved to rely on safety in numbers - the more eyes watching out for predators the better!

Horses that are stabled and deprived of contact with other horses often develop vices such as wind sucking and weaving. They can become depressed and withdraw into themselves. Sometimes they become aggressive. These vices are the only way they are able to express themselves. When the horse is put under such stress then the digestive and immune systems are affected making the horse more susceptible to illness and disease.

Given enough space horses love to romp, play and hang out together. This also helps develop social skills that help keep harmony in the herd. In the wild most horse families are made up of a single stallion and a number of mares. One of these mares will be the stallion’s favourite. She will be dominant (the alpha mare) and lead the herd, including the stallion. Within the rest of the group there will be a pecking order which is established through daily interactions.

Horses also like to groom each other. This helps to get to those itchy spots that they can’t reach by themselves. Often they will stand head to tail so that they can swat flies away from each other’s faces. This is why it is important for them to have the company of equals rather than other species such as cows or sheep.

Living outside year round, with no “clothes” on...Horses have developed an extremely efficient thermoregulatory system in their skin. It is through the skin that the horse gains information about the environment. But for it to work properly they need to have constant access to that environment which is why horses are healthier living outside year round.

Natural Boarding - for a healthy mind, body & spirit

Natural Boarding:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-boarding.html

Herdlife:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/herdlife.html

Living Outside:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/living-outside-year-round.html


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Each individual hair in a horse’s coat has a small muscle attached to it. This enables the horse to raise and lower the hairs to change the thickness of the coat. When the horse is cold it will raise the hairs so they can trap a layer of warm air. The air is warmed by the heat loss from the horse’s skin and the hairs prevent the air from escaping. As the horse warms up the coat will be flattened. This in turn decreases the amount of insulation and varies the amount of airflow to the skin.

Just like any other muscle the hair muscles need to be exercised to perform properly. When a horse is kept in a stable in a fairly constant temperature the muscles do not get exercised. This impacts on the horse when the rug is taken off when going for a ride. Suddenly the horse is subjected to much lower temperatures and it’s muscles aren’t able to respond effectively.

When a rug is put on the horse the hairs are forced to lie flat. This means that the horse no longer has control over regulating it’s temperature. Often the horse gets too hot under the rug and it is helpless to do anything about it. However the uncovered parts of the horse still get cold so the horse tries to warm them up which in turn make the areas under the rug even hotter. If the horse starts sweating under the rug it lowers the temperature too much as the moisture is trapped and the horse’s system will suffer. As a result the chemical processes within the horse may be partially disabled which will allow diseases such as colds and flu to take hold.

Horses can also generate heat through muscle action when moving. This is another good reason for allowing horses to live outside where they have space to move around. Or if the horse doesn’t want to move it can create the same effect by shivering as this also generates heat through muscle use.

Rugging and stabling a horse prevents the horse from growing a thicker coat in the winter. Also too much grooming can strip the coat of its natural greases which are there to keep it waterproofed. So try to avoid over grooming in the winter and keep bathing to a minimum.

Horses are adapted to deal with colder conditions. It is much easier for them to warm up than to cool down. Unlike a dog, a horse cannot use panting to lower it’s temperature. It relies mainly on sweating. The sweat glands secrete fluid which cools the skin surface as it evaporates. The sweaty horse will raise the hairs in it’s coat and turn them in different directions to allow the air to dry the sweat. In a stable there is very little airflow so the sweat takes longer to dry which can lead to chilling.



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Movement - over varied terrainThis is very important to the horse’s well-being. In the wild, they live in areas where feed and water is often scarce. So to survive they need to continually travel to seek out food and water. They also move around whilst playing and establishing rank order. The horse has led this lifestyle for millions of years and their physiological makeup has evolved to support this. It’s heart is relatively small compared to its body so it needs help from the muscles and joints to keep blood flowing through the body.

When a horse is stabled the circulatory system is not fully functioning and the heart can be over-stressed. This is often made worse when short but intense exercise is given.

Movement also helps stimulate gain in bone density. This is particularly important for foals and young horses.

Varied terrain stimulates the hooves and conditions them at the same time. Gravel is good for this. If your horse is getting enough movement then the hooves will start to maintain themselves. This is call self-trimming. Hills and rocks will help develop tendons and muscles and aid the horse in becoming more surefooted.

Access to grazing (or grass hay) 2�/� See horse feeding.

Free access to shelterYou need to provide your horse with somewhere that he can go to get out of extreme weather conditions. In the winter that means somewhere he can get a break from the wind, rain or snow. In the summer, somewhere he can go to get out of the sun or away from biting insects.

Horses don’t tend to like enclosed spaces so free access to a run-in shed or barn with more than one opening is best. Trees and hills can also provide shelter and wind-breaks and some horses will prefer these to man-made structures.

For tips on building a run-in shed (and lots of other practical horse keeping ideas) visit www.practicalhorsekeeping.com

Movementwww.all-natural-horse-care.com/movement.html


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Free access to clean waterHorses need access to clean water at all times. This is really important in the winter as they can get impaction colic if they are not consuming enough water when eating hay. To encourage them to drink enough you can add extra salt to their meals (either in their bucket or sprinkled on the hay). Many horses prefer water that is slightly warm so a heated waterer is also a good investment in the colder months.

If you need an automatic waterer here is a great review - by Annie at www.ride-the-sunshine-glow.com - of the MiraFount

Jaime Jackson, who has carried out extensive studies of wild horses has written a book called Paddock Paradise which is a fantastic resource if you are looking to create a natural setup.

Paddock ParadisePaddock Paradise is an exciting new natural boarding concept based on Jaime Jackson’s research into how horses live in the wild. It is a ground-breaking idea which has many benefits including:

• provides a more stimulating environment for the horse which discourages vices

• encourages more movement which benefits overall health of the horse

• enables easier grazing management

How did Pasture Paradise evolve?Jaime Jackson is a farrier who, between 1982 and 1986, undertook studies of feral horses interacting in their natural environment.

These studies revealed that feral horses rarely suffered from hoof problems such as laminitis or navicular which commonly affect our domestic horses.

So, based on what he saw in the wild, he started experimenting with trimming parameters for domestic horses that reflected the natural hoof and which would allow them to remain barefoot.

In 1990 he stopped using shoes on horses and started promoting the wild horse trim.

He published his first book in 1992, The Natural Horse: Lessons from the Wild which documented his wild horse studies and offered insights as to how we could better meet the biological needs of our domestic horses.



http://www.ride-the-sunshine-glow.com





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In 1999 he went on to write the Horse Owners Guide to Natural Hoof Care which went into more detail regarding his trim methods.

Paddock Paradise: A Guide to Natural Horse Boarding was published in 2007 and Jaime describes it as “the key to having physically and mentally healthier horses”.

Here’s how Pasture Paradise works:Instead of housing our horses in regular square or oblong fields where they just stand in one spot and eat, and eat, and eat, an additional “inside” fence is added to create a “track” system. See diagram on left.

The track width can vary - the narrower the track the more the horses will move. However you don’t want it too narrow if you have more than 2 horses as one may get cornered by a more dominant horse.

Now this may sound like a lot of work and expense but it can be done quite cheaply and quickly using electric fencing and is well worth the effort when you see how much happier and healthier your horse is.

Here’s how we made our Paddock Paradise:When we moved to this property there were no existing fences so I was able to design our track system from scratch. We are very lucky to have approximately 30 acres of pasture but with only 4 horses and 2 ponies I wanted to reduce the amount of grazing whilst keeping the track as long as possible to encourage maximum movement.

Initially we used both plastic and metal step-in electric fence posts for the inside and outside fences. However, I soon found that the shop-bought posts were not adequate for a Canadian winter! With up to 3 feet of snow the posts disappear as they tend to only be 3ft long and the horses just step over the fence, not good...

So we did a bit of brainstorming and came up with the idea of making our own using 6” x 2” x 10ft spruce, cutting it to 5ft lengths, then cutting into 3 to end up with 2” x 2” x 5ft posts. Then we cut a spike onto one end to make them easier to pound into the ground and added 2 plastic electric fence insulators (see pic - left). The total cost per post worked out to around $1 (CAN) which is cheaper than the store bought ones.

We used the electric fence poly rope on the top of the outside fence, with electric fence wire on the bottom and inside track. The rope is better than tape as it doesn’t get twisted or flap in the wind but is still very visible.



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We tied surveyors tape all along the wire to make it more visible but the wind tends to bunch it up by the posts. The only time the horses have a problem with seeing the wire is if you move the fence and they don’t get to see the changes until it’s dark. Otherwise once they know where it is they don’t seem to have a problem with it. We do use the lighter gauge wire that will break relatively easily, just in case they should run into it.

Our track incorporates the natural features of our property: a creek for hoof soaking; areas of gravel and rock to toughen up the hooves; hills for conditioning; trees for scratching and shade; and two mud areas designated for rolling.

Here is an aerial view of our Paddock Paradise track (left). As you can see it is quite long, with two loops. I have tried to avoid sharp corners so that there is a better flow - Monty, our young Paint x TB thinks that the loop on the bottom right is his own personal race track...he loves to run like the wind down the straight sections.

I am amazed by how much more they move since implementing the track system. They all look as if they are worked regularly which makes me feel less guilty for not having time to ride as often as I’d like!

The horses also have free access to a large stone barn run-in which has a concrete floor and rubber mats. This is great in the summer as the stone walls keep it nice and cool, whilst they also provide good insulation in the winter. The horses like to hang out in here when the flies are bad as it has a nice through-wind which keeps the flies at bay.

I am totally convinced by the benefits of Paddock Paradise and highly recommend you try it for your horses.



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Here are a few more Paddock Paradise examples:

Mustang Mountain and Missouri Paradisewildhooves.wordpress.com

Mustang Mountain, otherwise known as Stars Rest, is located on the side of a mountain in northeastern New Mexico. It is at 7,600’ elevation and the terrain varies from steep granite bluff to rolling sandy bottom. It is surrounded by ponderosa pine forest and there is no pasture land.

Stars Rest’s formerly wild mustangs are fed free choice local grass hay and just enough beet pulp to provide them with necessary supplements. They are all kept barefoot and have no difficulty climbing up and even galloping over the rugged mountain terrain. In spite of dire predictions of lameness and injury from keeping horses on this rugged piece of land, our little bachelor band has just gotten stronger, healthier and happier.

Missouri Paradise consists of approximately 12 acres made up of mostly hardwood forest along with 4 acres of pasture and is home to 4 horses.

Wisconsin Paradisehttp://thenaturalhoof.homestead.com/paddockparadise.html

This site shows how a single paddock can be altered to create more interest and encourage the horses to move more. A track has been built around the edge and rock has been added to give a more varied terrain.

Mustang Mountainwildhooves.wordpress.com

Winsconsin Paradise:http://thenaturalhoof.homestead.com/paddockparadise.html


http://thenaturalhoof.homestead.com/paddockparadise.html

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Natural hoof trimming, natural hoofcare and barefoot trimming are all terms used to describe a method of trimming that enables horses to be kept and ridden without shoes. There are many different styles of trim but they are mostly all based on the wild horse model.

Natural hoofcare is about more than just a trim method, however. It is a holistic approach to hoof care which takes into account the living conditions and the terrain that the horse encounters on a regular basis. The trim is a tool used to encourage the hoof to grow in a physiologically correct shape and the correct living conditions aid remodeling where necessary and help maintain a healthy hoof.

There are many benefits to keeping your horse barefoot including:

• Improved blood flow which improved horse’s overall health.

• Healthy, strong horn (hoof walls).

• Greater shock absorption so fewer concussion related injuries.

• Quicker heart rate recovery time after exercise.

• No more worrying about shoes coming off during a ride/event.

• Lower risk of injuries when playing in the field.

• Improved traction - nature designed the hoof so it can adapt to all terrains.

• Less tripping, stumbling and forging as horse can feel where it’s feet are.

However, it is not just simply a case of removing the shoes and happily riding off into the sunset. Most horses need to go through a transition period to allow the hooves to adapt to being barefoot. During that time hoof boots may be needed when riding.

Good natural hoof trimming aims to:

• Encourage a tight laminar connection by dealing with flares to ensure that the coffin bone is held strongly in the top of the hoof capsule.

• The heels are trimmed to allow the frog to function in shock absorption.

• The walls are trimmed so that the sole is also weight bearing.

• The toe callus is encouraged to develop through conditioning to protect the front of the coffin bone.

• Ensure that the bottom edge of the coffin bone is kept at approx 3-5 degrees (depending on which trim method you follow) angle to the ground.

Rock-crunching hooves in action© Jeau Thomas

Natural Hoof Trimming - for a sounder horse



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Potential issues with a traditional pasture trim:

• Often in a typical pasture trim the heels are left long which encourages contraction and can lead to navicular pain.

• The toe callus is trimmed away (from the bottom) leaving the tip of the coffin bone unprotected.

• The walls are flat and left higher than the sole so they have to support the entire weight of the horse.

• Flares are often ignored which puts strain on the laminar connection and results in poor suspension of the coffin bone making the horse more susceptible to laminitis.

• Trimming is often carried out on an infrequent basis, so the hooves are often not in an optimum state.

Natural hoofcare and natural hoof trimming aim to mimic natural wear so is often carried out on a more frequent basis than traditional pasture trims. This keeps the hoof in the optimum shape at all times.

Barefoot hoof diagramsBelow are some barefoot hoof diagrams to give you an idea of what the shape of the “ideal” hoof should look like. The parts of the hoof are labeled for reference.

Sole view of a front hoof Note: Healthy hooves can vary depending on the environment the horse is living in and the terrain they regularly encounter.

Hoof Diagrams:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/barefoot-hoof-diagrams.html


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Note the following points:

• Wide, fat frog.

• Tight white line.

• Strong, thick hoof walls - with the inner wall being thicker.

• Bars end approximately halfway down the frog.

• The heel buttresses are back towards the rear of the frog.

• The hoof ratio is 65:35 (from the rear of the hoof to the widest point; and from the widest point to the break over).

Sole view of a rear hoofThe rear hoof is more oblong in shape and has a slightly pointed toe compared to the front hoof. This is because the rear hooves are used to propel the horse forward and so the point helps the hoof dig into the ground to provide more push.



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Side view of the hoof capsule

Coffin bone photosBelow are some photos of the coffin bone. You will see how it sits parallel to the ground and also how that translates to the cross section view shown in the barefoot hoof diagrams.

When viewing cross section diagrams it is often difficult to understand talk of ground parallel coffin bones as the bone looks to be at an angle to the ground.

However, this is purely due to the nature of cross sections. The photos below illustrate how this comes about. In the one on the left you can see the whole bone and you can see how the bottom edge is parallel to the ground. The one on the right shows the cross section (where the bone is cut in half). This makes it look like the bottom edge (which is really the underside and is concave) is at an angle to the ground.

Coffin bone (left) and cross section (right)

Coffin Bone Photos:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/coffin-bone.html


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Coffin bone viewsNote: The bones shown are not perfect specimens and have some deformities. They were taken from a cadaver (dead) hoof which had large cracks in the hoof wall and showed signs of rotation (founder). But they do illustrate the basic shape of the bone.



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Hoof Evaluation

What makes a good hoof?Does your horse currently have healthy hooves? This page will help you identify the common issues that often sneak up on you when you are not looking...

Hoof wall

The hoof wall should look smooth on the outside (without it being rasped!). If you see bumps (growth rings - photo on left, above) then that is an indication of a problem. The growth rings relate to a time of stress for the horse and it is fairly easy to put a timeframe on the rings - just like you can with trees! The cause of the rings can be many and varied but, laminitis, caused by grass that is too rich, is often a major player.

Horizontal cracks (centre photo, above) are usually a sign of an old abscess. They will normally grow out without too much trouble as once the abscess has burst they seal themselves up on the inside to prevent further infection.

Vertical cracks (photo on right, above) can be much more serious and tend to be due to an imbalance of the hoof. They will not grow out until the imbalance is dealt with. Often the crack will be an ideal home for bacteria which will need to be treated to allow the hoof to heal.

Hoof Education:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/Hoof-Education.html

Laminitis:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/laminitis-in-horses.html


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Straight growth of hoof wall

The hoof walls should grow in a straight line from the coronet as illustrated in the photo on the left (above). See how when you drop a line through the centre of the hoof there is approximately the same amount of hoof on either side of the line. (This does vary slightly, more so on the hinds where the inside wall is often more upright than the outside wall.) Also note how the growth from the coronet parallels the width of the hoof wall (the distance between the red and outer yellow lines).

The second photo appears, at first glance, to have straight walls but when you look at the sole view the flares become evident when the red and yellow lines are applied. The green lines indicate where the hoof wall should really be.

The third photo shows a hoof with flare on the one side. See how this is confirmed on the sole view when you measure the distance from the middle yellow line to the outer yellow lines. This reveals that there is more hoof to the right of the line. Again, the green line indicates where the hoof wall should ideally be.

NOTE: the sole views are flipped for illustration purposes.



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Angle of growth at the toe and heel

At first glance this photo above shows a horse with a fairly low looking heel height (blue line). However, if you look closely you will see that the heel length (marked in pink) is actually too long. This is called an underrun heel or Forward Foot Syndrome and it is where the heel grows at too low an angle. This is a common condition that is often misinterpreted - many people only see how low the heel bulbs are to the ground and want to grow more heel. However this just compounds the problem. See how far under the hoof the point of impact already is? By allowing the heel to grow longer the point of impact ends up even further under the hoof. This is often how navicular starts because the impact force is in the wrong place and affects the tendon which causes damage to the navicular bone.

See also how the toe wall is trying to grow in at a tighter angle at the top? But it can’t when the toe is too long and the point of breakover too far forward as it keeps getting diverted to a lower angle. Also note the shape of the foot when viewed from the bottom. It is oblong rather than rounded, again because the breakover is in the wrong place. The green lines show where the hoof should be - with the point of impact of the heels further back under the horse and in line with the back of the frog. The toe also needs to be brought back to allow the hoof wall and coffin bone to grow in a tight connection.

Forward Foot Syndrome:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/forward-foot-syndrome.html


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Hoof shapeThe ideal shape of the front hoof is shown on the left in the illustration below and the hind hoof on the right. The hinds tend to be more pointed because they are used to dig in and push off to propel the horse forward.

The ideal ratio of the hoof, when viewing the sole is 2/3rd to 1/3rd. This translates as the distance from the apex (tip) of the frog to the back of the heels is 2/3rds the overall length; and the distance from the apex of the frog to the toe is 1/3rd of the overall length. However, be sure to take the measurements from the true apex of the frog - sometimes the frog grows forward so it needs to be trimmed back a little to reveal the true apex.

Also be aware of the shape of the hoof - sometimes when the hoof is more oblong the ratio may appear correct but in fact is not - the whole foot has migrated forward.

Hoof Length, concavity & depth of the collateral groovesThe length of the hoof is dependant on the health of the hoof. When the hoof is unhealthy it often grows in excess to help protect the weaker parts. In a healthy hoof the hoof walls are just slightly longer (1/8” or 3mm) than the level of the naturally concave live sole.

The depth of concavity you are looking for is approx 1/2 - 3/4” (13-20mm). “How do I measure that?”, I hear you ask. Well first lay a flat surface, such as a rasp, across the

Breakover/Toe Rocker:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/toe-rocker.html


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sole of the hoof. Then take your hoof pick and push it down into the collateral groove at the rear of the hoof - between the bar and the frog. Put your fingers at the point where the hoof pick meets the rasp. Pull out the hoof pick (keeping your fingers in place) and measure from the tip of the hoof pick to where your fingers are. This will give you the measurement at the heels. Then do the same at the apex of the frog. If the measurements are below the range then you have a horse with a short hoof and a thin sole. If they are above the range then the hoof is too long.

Quality of the frogA healthy frog is full, plump and level with the heels. The ideal texture is like a hard rubber/eraser and the central cleft should be open. If the frog is tatty looking or if the central sulcus consists of only a crack then there is probably thrush lurking in there.

Quality of the white lineA healthy hoof has what is know as a “tight” white line. This is the connection between the hoof wall and the coffin bone and in a healthy hoof it shows up as being approx 3-5mm wide.

The illustrations below show a healthy hoof on the left and a hoof with a stretched white line (at the toe) on the right. The white line looks like stripes between the sole and the hoof wall and is much more visible when stretched. Stretching at the toe is normally an indicator of rotation of the coffin bone as a result of laminitis or it may be from excess flaring of the hoof.







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Taking good hoof photos is crucial to getting a good evaluation of your horse’s hooves. Studying good hoof photos will help you learn more about the health of your horse’s hooves and how to spot problems before they occur.

Step One: Choose the right areaMake sure that you have a good location to take your photos. You need a fairly firm (so that the hoof doesn’t sink into it) and flat surface. Lighting is also important - try to avoid an area where there is direct sunlight such as an open doorway of a barn, or in a very dark corner, as they don’t make for good hoof photos. Natural, even light is best but using a flash also works (just be sure to check your horse is ok with the flash going off before you attempt to shoot the hooves, else he might end up in your lap!).

Step Two: Clean the AreaSweep the area clean or lay down a board or rubber mat on the floor. Any shavings or hay left on the floor will cause you problems as the camera will focus on them and make your hooves look blurry.

Step Three: Clean the HoofClean the hooves thoroughly. Pick them out and use a wire brush to thoroughly clean out all the cracks and crevises. If the foot still looks dirty then try soaking in warm water for a few minutes and then scrub with the brush to get rid of every spec of dirt. Then thoroughly dry the foot with a towel.

Step Four: Re-clean the AreaThis step may seem repetitive, but be sure not to skip it. Even one small lump of mud can get in the way of good hoof photos.

Step Five: Taking the Good Hoof PhotosThere are seven main hoof shots that I like to take. Remember for the majority of these shots the camera needs to be on the ground, otherwise there will be distortion. If you have any specific problems with the hooves you can also include additional photos of them.

Lateral shot - taken from the side of the hoof with the camera on the ground and aiming the camera at the middle of the hoof. The camera must be parallel to the leg and try to include the short pastern bone so that the angle can be assessed.

Taking Good Hoof Photos:http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/good-hoof-photos.html

How to Take Good Hoof Photos


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Medial shot - same as the lateral shot but taken from the opposite side of the horse so you are viewing the inside side of the hoof.

Toe shot - again taken with the camera on the ground and aiming the camera at the middle of the hoof. Make sure the horse’s leg is as square over the hoof as possible.

Heels on the ground shot - again taken with the camera on the ground and aiming the camera at the middle of the hoof. Make sure the horse’s leg is as square over the hoof as possible.

Heels in the air shot - this one is a little tricker to take as you need to hold the hoof whilst taking the photo. I suggest you practise this without the camera first as you need to teach your horse to relax the hoof down without him trying to put his foot down. The way I do it is to hold the pastern in my left hand with my thumb (the black blob - I’m wearing gloves in this shot) gently pressing into the back of the pastern. Encourage the horse to relax the leg and let the hoof hang down. The first couple of times you try this the horse will probably think you want him to put the hoof down, so be patient. Gently rotating or wiggling the leg will help it to relax. Once you and your horse are comfortable with this you can then line the camera up with the heels and move it backwards and forwards until you can just see the toe slightly as well. I suggest you take a few shots in varying positions to ensure you get it right. This is a very useful shot for assessing overall balance.

Sole shot - again a little tricker as you need to hold the hoof whilst taking the photo, but easier



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than the last one! Hold the camera parallel to the hoof and try to keep it fairly square on too. Make sure you include the heel bulbs.

Concavity shot - again a tricky one but it’s a nice shot to illustrate concavity. Hold the camera about 8 inches above and to the side of the hoof at an approx 45 degree angle. Again, experiment a bit and take a few shots to be sure to get a good one.

Step Six: Taking Body ShotsWhen taking good hoof photos it is also useful to have the following body shots of the horse as they can indicate how comfortable the horse is with her feet.

Full body shot - taken from the side with the horse stood in her normal position ie don’t stand her up square just for the photo.

Front shot - taken from the front with the horse stood in her normal position ie don’t stand her up square just for the photo.

Rear shot - taken from behind with the horse stood in her normal position ie don’t stand him up square just for the photo.



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If your horse’s hooves are “not quite right” or he/she is experiencing equine hoof problems then it’s always a good idea to get a second opinion. Often we are told that “that’s just the way his/her hooves are” but that is not always the case. Many common equine hoof problems are as a result of imbalance and this can affect the whole horse. For example if your horse has a sore hock it may be due to the medial/lateral balance of the hoof being off. Or if he has no get up and go, then it may be due to sore feet. Often, behaviour problems are as a result of pain so it is always wise to consider this when dealing with a difficult horse.

Studying photosOne of the best ways to really study your horse’s feet is to take photos with a digital camera. When we look at the hooves on a daily basis it is easy to overlook the detail - you will be amazed at what you see in a photo that you miss in real life. Using thegood hoof photo guidelines to take your pictures will give you clear, quality photos that you can study on your computer at leisure. Even if your horse has shoes on you will still be able to see a great deal.

Compare with Healthy HoovesAfter you have taken and studied the photos you may be able to work out for yourself where the problem lies. This hoof education pages will help with this. Or you may find it helpful to compare your horse’s hoof photos with photos of healthy hooves, such as the ones on this page http://www.hoofrehab.com/Natural%20Hoof%20Care.htm

Photo ConsultationsIf you want to get another opinion and a more detailed assessment of your horse’s hooves, then you please contact me. I have been evaluating hooves from photos (and xrays if you have them) for many years and will provide you with marked-up photos and a detailed description, indicating areas of concern.

Contact me by email: [email protected] for more information. The cost is $40(US) for up to 1 hour’s consultation and can be paid online using paypal - details will be sent once I recieve your request.

Please note that this service does not intend to replace the services of your current hoof care professional or vet and is for guideline purposes only. It will provide you an alternative insight into your equine hoof problems but will not replace a hands on diagnosis. It is recommended that you consult with your vet about any changes you may wish to implement.

Hoof Education:http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/Hoof-Education.html

Healthy Hooves:http://www.hoofrehab.com/Natural%20Hoof%20Care.htm

Contact Me:[email protected]

Equine Hoof Problems & Photo Consultations


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The bare foot horse is becoming a force to be reckoned with in many different disciplines of equitation. This page shows just a small selection of the hundreds of barefoot horses successfully competing in sports such as racing, endurance, eventing and dressage. These performance barefoot horses serve to prove that bare foot works and is a viable option for every horse, not just backyard owners who trail ride once or twice a week.

DressageBritish Olympian Emma Hindle bagged a double victory with Diamond Hit and Wie Weltmeyer (Wally) at the international CDIO in Saumur, France in 2005, both horses competed bare foot. Hindle says “The experiences I’ve had riding without shoes is unbelievable. Three years ago Wally had a problem after one shoeing, so we wanted to see how he did without them. Since then, we’ve taken off for three months in winter and put them back on for the shows. This year we decided to keep them off and I think it’s brilliant.”

Astrid Appels of Eurodressage said, “The suppleness with which Hindle’s horses moved in Saumur was remarkable. Both Diamond Hit and Wie Weltmeyer bounced off the ground striding with confidence. The secret to this power and rhythm in her horses is the fact that they wear no shoes.”

For the full story visit: www.eurodressage.com

Update - Emma’s current horses are shod due to pressure from the owners.

EnduranceDarolyn Butler first experienced the benefits of a bare foot horse back in September 2000. She had been competing in a 100 miler when her horse pulled out at 80 miles. The next day he started showing signs of laminitis so she rushed him to the best vet hospital in Texas. But despite the best care they could offer for 2 weeks (including heart bar shoes) the horse was abscessing and worsening. Darolyn started researching alternatives on the internet and stumbled across the bare foot methods. By January 2001 her horse was sound and they were back competing, coming close to winning his 2nd race and winning his 3rd. Since then she has converted her entire barn of 50 horses to bare foot.

For more information on endurance riding with a bare foot horse visit: www.horseridingfun.com

The Performance Bare Foot Horse:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/bare-foot-horse.html

www.eurodressage.comwww.horseridingfun.com

The Performance Bare Foot Horse


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EventingKendall Victorine DeRoo and her son Tyler of Bristol, Winconsin started experimenting with the bare foot trim back in 2002. They took the shoes off seven of their horses including Royal Code who went on to complete two novice events and four training events with placings of 7th, 6th, 4th and 1st. In September, just seven months after going bare foot they moved up to prelim level. In June 2003 they won their division of the Prelim Level at the Fox River Valley Pony Club Horse Trails, Barrington, IL and placed in six other Prelim events throughout the season.

For the full story and photos of Royal Code in action visit: www.naturalhorsetrim.com

Working Bare Foot Horses

Mounted PatrolsIn Houston, TX, Las Vegas, NV, and Tampa, FL mounted patrols are very proud barefoot trim advocates. Greg Sokoloski, trainer of the Houston MP horses and certified trimmer (through Martha Olivo / United Horsemanship ), reports, “Before barefooting, we were seeing tripping, stumbling, bad abscessing, tendon and back problems, and very poor hoof quality with shoes. What is amazing is all those conditions have stopped. It is incredible to see the medical logs, and see the months of various medical conditions -- then no entries after barefooting.”

He says the horses have much better traction and also noticed improved overall conformation - if the Mounted Patrol that walks on pavement all day in one of the largest cities in the U.S. has their horses barefoot, your horse can be too!

DrivingThere are also many people who drive with bare foot horses. Find more information about driving horses at: www.discover-horse-carriage-driving.com

www.naturalhorsetrim.com

www.discover-horse-carriage-driving.com


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There are many different trimmers doing barefoot trims and they all have slightly different styles. Here is a list of some of the main ones:

Applied Equine Podiatry - KC La Pierre, RJF, MEP, PhDKC La Pierre, RJF, MEP, PhD, is the developer of the HPT method™ (High Performance Trim) and educator of Applied Equine Podiatry (AEP). He has been a Registered Journey Farrier for 20 years, a horseman for over 30 years, as well as a traditional Journeymen Blacksmith.

KC founded the International Institute of Equine Podiatry, Inc. in 2000 with the aim of furthering the awareness of today’s insightful horse owner, farrier, and veterinarian to the importance of proper equine foot care.

Applied Equine Podiatry is about first establishing balance with the HPT Method™ - which is his tool to achieving the correct stimulus for growth. However, exposing that foot to the proper environment is the key to success; it’s what that foot is exposed to once it hits the ground that is important. AEP is about owner commitment and education. It’s about looking at domestication differently, and being able to think laterally, out of the box. KC La Pierre’s new science of hoof care is about changing how you look at your horse’s environment, while providing the correct stimulus for growth. What AEP is built upon is a simple formula: Structure + Function = Performance.

Applied Equine Podiatry is based on KC La Pierre’s own Suspension Theory of Hoof Dynamics© and his Internal Arch Theory©. His work is about providing a model and a method that both the farrier sciences, and alternative medicine practitioners can rely on. He balances to the fifth dimension!

His past experience with the Abaco wild barb horses of the Bahamas, provided research into the environmental effects on the once pristine hooves of these magnificent creatures. This research has been supportive to the practical application of AEP on the domestic horse.

“The essence of Equine Podiatry is the conscientious study of the equine foot, always striving to expose it to proper environmental stimuli, making every effort to promote proper structure and function, as we attempt to achieve high performance. It is accepting the facts that the horse has the innate ability to heal itself and that man’s interference has caused imbalance and broken the golden rule of “Do No Harm”.” KC La Pierre, RJF, MEP, PhD, 2002.

Applied Equine Podiatry:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/Applied-Equine-Podiatry.html

Trim Styles


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/Applied-Equine-Podiatry.html


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CoursesKC’s workshops include five-day courses, online curriculum for distance learning, as well as a diploma program for those who wish to pursue Applied Equine Podiatry as a career. Book and DVDsThe Chosen Road - Achieving High Performance through Applied Equine Podiatry - a comprehensive book on the healing art of Equine Podiatry and its tool, the HPT method™, as well as KC’s four Volume DVD set.

For further information visit: www.equinepodiatry.net

The Perfect Hoof ClubThe Perfect Hoof Club was introduced for the serious horse lover, those wanting to advance their knowledge of the equine foot and have fun while doing so. KC La Pierre will provide members with the latest in hoof care information every month through a newsletter, member’s only forum, and more! www.theperfecthoof.com


http://www.equinepodiatry.net

http://www.theperfecthoof.com


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Barefoot for Soundness with Marjorie SmithMarjorie Smith is the owner of Barefoot for Soundness which is a website that is a voice for the experience and observations of several dozen barefoot-horse colleagues, plus the thoughtful contributions of many readers.

Marjorie lives in the countryside near Philadelphia, USA and has trimmed her own horses’ feet since 1998. It took her five years to think her way through going barefoot, before there was any “barefoot movement” to point the way. She completely respects how long it takes to think it through and she believes in giving you time to do your own homework before committing to the barefoot decision.

Marjorie’s inspiration came from watching the farrier Tony Gonzalez teach about balancing hooves, where she saw a fidgety horse suddenly become calm after he shaved a small amount off the outside toe of one of its feet. She credits Becky Tober, a Gonzalez student, for showing her how to see many kinds of imbalances in hooves.

Her experience of a “pasture trim” on her first horse (15 years ago) - when her horse became very sore to the point that Marjorie put shoes back on her - made her notice that you have to do something different to ride a horse barefoot.

When she moved East in 1998, Marjorie had the shoes pulled on her horses, and started playing with the trimming tools. Trimming every 3 to 4 weeks for a year she worked her way through every imbalance there is, always with lots of observation, thought, and experimenting.

While figuring out how to trim, Marjorie found Jaime Jackson’s book, ‘The Natural Horse’. Later she visited Jaime and saw his awesome set of wild mustang feet; looked at them for hours and took their shape deep into her core.

She also heard of Dr. Hiltrud Strasser, a German veterinarian who developed a method for rehabilitating lame horses that includes a barefoot, short-heel trim along with 24-hour turnout and 24-hours available grass hay. Marjorie went to a seminar, was inspired by Dr Strasser’s knowledge of physiology and mechanics of the hoof and leg, and in 2001 took her 9-month Hoofcare Specialist course. However Marjorie found Dr. Strasser’s trim invasive of the hoof - her horses were unrideable for a year and a half, as well as the horses of friends who took the course with her - so she went back to the wild horse trim and terminated her certification with Dr. Strasser.

www.barefoothorse.com is packed full information including lots of helpful photos and includes detailed steps on how to carry out a wild-horse trim.

Barefoot for Soundness:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/Barefoot-for-Soundness.html


http://www.barefoothorse.com

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/Barefoot-for-Soundness.html


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Gene OvnicekGene Ovnicek is nationally and internationally recognized as a farrier, clinician and researcher. A pioneer in the study of wild horse hoof form and function, Gene has combined his 40 years of farrier experience with the information from other scientific research as a foundation for treating and preventing equine lameness.

Gene is currently involved with ongoing research with Dr. Robert Bowker of Michigan State University and Dr. Barbara Page of the Equine Wellness Foundation.

The ever evolving Natural Balance® information packed presentations have been featured at some of the most prestigious farrier and veterinarian conferences in the world. In addition to the research projects, teaching and his position as President and Chief Technician of Equine Digit Support System, Inc., Gene still operates a complete farrier practice ranging from performance horses to lameness management and consultation.

Gene Ovnicek and the Natural Balance® information have been published in the American Farrier’s Journal (AFJ), Anvil Magazine, TrailBlazer magazine, Horse Illustrated, Western Horseman, the European Farrier’s Journal, EQUUS and several associated press articles. He has published chapters in major hoof care text books such as “Adams Lameness in Horses”, “Diagnosis and Management of Lameness in the Horse”, and “The Veterinary Clinics of North America”.

Some of the wild horse research material, as well as the Natural Balance® guidelines are published in the book, “New Hope for Soundness” and on the www.hopeforsoundness.com website. This and more updated information is covered in the “Natural Balance® Hoof Trimming” and “Natural Balance® Shoeing” video sets.

As a clinician, Gene has been invited to share this information with a wide range of groups and activities. A few include:

• 1994 and 2003 Bluegrass Laminitis Symposium

• 1995 American Association of Equine Practitioners Convention

• 1997 Guild of Professional Farriers Convention

• 1998 Colorado Veterinary Medical Association Conference

• 1999 Wyoming Veterinary Medical Association Conference

• Annual Colorado State University C.E. Courses for Veterinarians and Farriers

• Annual University of California at Davis C.E. Courses for Veterinarians and Farriers

Gene Ovnicek:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/gene-ovnicek.html


http://www.hopeforsoundness.com

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/gene-ovnicek.html


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• 1998 Heumphreus Memorial Conference at University of California at Davis

• Regular TFP Sponsored Farrier/Vet Conferences in England

• 1998 and 2002 Ashbrook Farrier/Vet Conference in the UK

• 1999 - 11th Congress for Farriers and Vets of France

• 1999 - Various Sponsored Farrier/Vet Conferences in Australia

• 1999 and 2000 - Venezuela Laminitis Symposium

• 1997 and 2000 - Annual Rochester Lameness Conference

• 2001 Meeting of the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association

• 2001 Meeting of the American College of Veterinary Surgeons

• 2002 American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association Conference

• 1998-2005 Annual Soundness Festival Clinician

• 2004 “Shoeing for Balance” Conference in the UK

• 2005 and 2006 2nd and 3rd Annual International Hoof Care Summit

• 2005 - 9th Congress of Equine Medicine and Surgery, Geneva, Switzerland



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Pete RameyPete Ramey started out as a shoeing farrier in 1994. He was trained by a local farrier and studied farrier texts. He soon became aware of the lack of actual hoof knowledge and trimming instructions contained within the farrier texts. Also how there was very little information on dealing with pathological hooves, so he started reading veterinary textbooks and picking the brains of farriers and vets. However he still could not find the answers.

In 1998 he was shown some barefoot texts and internet printouts and he quickly realised that the answers he was seeking were coming to light. His shoeing abilities improved with this new found knowledge and six months later he started experimenting with barefoot techniques on his own horse. Soon after he was blown away by the results he was getting with twenty trail horses at a public riding facility who were averaging twenty miles a day barefoot over rocky ground. Their overall health was improving as well as their endurance and traction.

His main interest was to work on lameness rehabilitation and so he started to give presentations of his case studies to the local vet hospitals and he bought lame horses from the “killer market” to take home and rehab. As word of his success spread his business grew until he was taking care of up to 800 horses and teaching hoof clinics all over the world.

In 2000, he wrote his first book “Making Natural Hoofcare Work for You”, which was well received due to it being written in a clear and straightforward way with lots of photos.

To visit Pete’s website - which has lots of great articles and photos of hooves before and after trimming: www.hoofrehab.com

Pete Ramey:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/pete-ramey.html


http://www.hoofrehab.com

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/pete-ramey.html


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The LIM Trim by Walter FriedrichThe LIM trim (Less is More) philosophy is that we should not blindly follow someone else’s idea of how it should look, but rather do as little as possible and only what is absolutely necessary for each foot, on the theory that it’s quite capable of fixing itself when given half a chance. Bottom line -- be careful to overdo nothing.

What follows are just the conclusions I’ve personally come to. They are influenced by Marjorie Smith and Heike Bean, who together sparked the original concept by describing their own experiences in striving to fix problem feet, and in a general sense to Gene Ovnicek.

I think that many of us do too much, too often to our horses’ feet in the name of making them look like a feral’s, on the theory that if the outside looks “right” then the inside must also be right. Thinking back over horses I’ve known, I realize that it’s not at all uncommon for the “well”-trimmed and often-trimmed horse to be the lame one, while the horse whose feet are left pretty much alone seems to get along just fine.

I think it’s incorrectly inferred by many of us who’ve learned from Strasser or KC or Jaime or others that we need to force, even micromanage, the feet to idealize their appearance if we want our horse barefoot and sound, when that’s not at all what these people are trying to get across. With the exception of the appearance of the white line, how the outside looks does not guarantee that the inside is as it should be.

Here is exactly what comprises the LIM TrimFirst, trim frequently. A three-week cycle is a good compromise between overworking your back or pocketbook and running the danger of letting hoof growth get away from you.

Second, at each trim study the feet on the ground before you pick one up. Make a mental note about what doesn’t look quite right so you’re sure to address it when you have hoof in hand. This is when you’ll spot the existence of any flaring. Continue the study when you pick up the foot - the only tool you should have in your hand is your pick/brush, with your wire brush handy.

Clean off the bottom thoroughly, including the commisures, so you can see all foot and no dirt. Now look to determine the cause of any anomalies you saw before picking up, as well as the condition of the sole components. Don’t rush into rasping or cutting (remember the motto of the LIM trim: “Less is More”), take a moment and study what you’ve got, then plan out your work. That includes locating the widest distance across the foot, the location of the breakover, and the location of the heel buttresses. Gene suggests

Pete Ramey:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/LIM-trim.html


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/LIM-trim.html


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you actually draw lines with a marking pen so you can see exactly what you’ve got. See the photo below for a roadmap of the sole. Keep the 65-35 ratio (or thereabouts) in mind - if you don’t see it, determine why: have the buttresses worked their way forward since the last trim? Has the breakover disappeared or moved? Plan for your corrective routine.

Finally, go to the LIM trim. You’re going to “fix” specific problems that you spotted during your evaluation phase, then give it the Old 1-2-3. That is, 1) take down wall all around to live sole plane, making sure the foot is balanced, 2) make sure the heel buttresses are where they belong according to the 65-35 concept. It means bring them back close to the location of the frog buttress, which isn’t going to change. Then 3) rocker the toe to support/induce proper breakover point and apply a mustang roll.

When correcting hoof problems like pointy toes and underslung heels, while all the above applies, the wall needs special attention. Depending on the severity of any flaring, you may need to nip away the bottom of the wall. Some trimmers cut back the toe vertically. That’s essentially the same as a strong rocker and mustang roll. The objective is to remove leverage from the extended wall digging into the ground. The advantage in applying the strong rocker/mustang roll is that you’re in little danger of taking it back too far, but you may have to touch up the toe more often than every 3 weeks.

Some pertinent comments:• First, hinds generally don’t get the toe rocker, but do get the mustang roll and you

need to make sure the toe wall is not left too long - you want to support breakover where the foot wants it. Because of the difference in shape between fores and hinds, the support ratio is probably closer to 50-50 in the typical hinds.

• Don’t touch the toe callous on any foot.

• You may need to trim the bars with a knife if you’re trimming to correct a problem foot, but when you’re trimming to maintain a good foot, the bars should rarely, if ever, need knife attention.

• Normally, the frogs don’t need attention, but if they’re stringy you can trim off the raggedy stuff. If they’re deteriorated, you can apply whatever treatment you’re using -- Kopertox, TTO or other.

• You can debride the sole if you wish, without cutting into the live sole itself.

Yes, of course, the LIM trim is simple -- that’s the point. Its essence is that you do no more than the hoof calls for, you specifically ensure properly lowered heels, you support proper breakover, you balance the foot, and most importantly, you support the forces acting on the foot while the horse moves so that it wants to stretch rather than contract. The LIM trim allows the bars to remain straight and the frog, if it’s not suffering from a

Hoof photo courtesy of Sossity Gargiulo



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fungal infection, to fatten up and make initial ground contact.

Let’s address the bent and laid-over bars problem, which I consider to be the result of heel-to-toe contraction, AKA Forward Foot Syndrome (call it FFS). What follows is purely theoretical.

A large percentage of domestic horses seem to have folded bars. It is unnatural and probably limits the horse’s endurance as well as causes discomfort or even pain. Many of us hack away at the bars in a vain attempt to get them to straighten. I don’t think that will ever work - sure hasn’t for me -- because I think bent bars are directly related to and the result of the underslung condition (FFS), and when we fix that, the bars will straighten themselves.

With feral feet, it’s a given that constant movement and the correct “trim” that happens naturally are responsible for the ideal characteristics of their bottoms. The mechanics of hoof action during all that movement must be what prevents FFS. It could be that the normal force vectors in a healthy foot, from impact through weight-bearing and then breakover are tensile -- tending to stretch the foot between toe and heel -- and the function of the bars, similar to that of the frog, is to resist those pulling forces and keep things in place. If that is true, then the bars would be in a constant state of either quiescence, while the foot is not weight-bearing, or being pulled front-to-back, through the entire weight-bearing cycle. A compressive force in the heel-to-toe (H-T) direction, as we have with FFS, is unnatural in the foot system and to the bars in particular, and eventually results in the bars bending and laying over. An analogy: squeeze an index card between thumb and forefinger - it bends. Compressive force and resistance that fails.

The argument can be made that a FFS foot is actually displaying H-T contraction, because in order to be underslung to begin with, there has to be net compressive force in the H-T direction. It would eventually bend the bar just like that index card. The bars aren’t strong enough to provide support from compressive forces when the entire weight of the horse is behind them, so they’ve got to give. Once FFS starts, it gets more pronounced with every step the horse takes, and the bars pay the price.

I believe that compressive heel-toe forces cause FFS, and specifically, the underslung heels that squeeze the bars rather than allowing them to stretch. I also believe that the root cause of it all is the combination of improper heel height and improper breakover. I’ve noticed the prevalence of underslung heels on hooves with unrockered toe and overly high heels. These aspects need to work together harmoniously, and the LIM Trim will help correct FFS.



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Hoof-related Websites

www.ironfreehoof.com Excellent website that gives very detailed, easy-to-understand, step-by-step information on trimming hooves.

www.naturalhorsetrim.com Lots of detailed information on dealing with laminitis and founder.

Iron Free Hoof:www.ironfreehoof.com

Natural Horse Trim:www.naturalhorsetrim.com


http://www.ironfreehoof.com


http://www.ironfreehoof.com



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Laminitis in horses - ideas for prevention and cureLaminitis in horses (also know as horse founder) is becoming a very common condition these days, mostly due to the lush pastures that more and more horses and ponies are being grazed on.

Horses are actually classed as foragers (rather than grazers) which means that their digestive systems are designed to cope with a continuous supply of small amounts of roughage at a time. Wild horses have to travel great distances to get enough food to keep them alive as most wild grasses are low in nutrients. In comparison domestic horses are given huge amounts of high nutrient value grasses as more and more fertilizers are used. This means that the horse has to move very little and consumes more sugars than it’s body can handle which is the main cause of laminitis in horses.

Also many stable kept horses are given large amounts of grain in one feeding and then left for many hours with nothing in their stomach. This is also very disruptive to the digestive system and can contribute to laminitis.

Definition of Laminitis in horsesLaminitis is inflammation of the sensitive structures in the hoof called the lamellae. The lamellae are the means by which the coffin bone is held tight within the hoof capsule. When viewing the sole of a healthy hoof you can tell how good the connection is by looking at the white line. If the white line is tight (narrow in width) then there is a strong connection. If the white line is stretched then the connection is compromised - see diagrams below. Untreated laminitis can lead to Founder which is where the bone rotates within the hoof capsule and sometimes results in the bone penetrating the sole.

Laminitis in horses is referred to as acute when it is in the early stages and chronic when it has been present for a long time.

Healthy hoof with tight white lineSee how the white line is narrow and even around the whole hoof in the illustration on the left on the following page. Laminitis in horses occurs when the lamellae become inflamed and produce a secretion full of toxins which weakens the connection between the coffin bone and the hoof wall. This leads to a stretched white line (image on the right) which is visible when looking at the sole of a horse with laminitis.

Common Hoof Disorders


www.johnthevet.com



http://www.johnthevet.com


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Side view showing a tight white line

The strong connection holds the coffin bone tight to the hoof wall:



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Laminitis in Horses - Side view showing a stretched white lineHere you can see how the connection with the coffin bone has been weakened allowing rotation.

Photo’s of hooves with laminitis

The hoof above left, shows a stretched white line (indicated by the red markings) and the xray on the right shows how the coffin bone has rotated away from the hoof wall (marked in red) - the bottom green line is longer than the top one.



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These two photos show the hoof trying to heal itself by growing in a tighter connection at the top. The difference in the hoof wall angle (highlighted in red) is a clear indication of rotation of the coffin bone.

Symptoms of Laminitis in Horses

• Less activity and a reluctance to move when led

• Lying down more than is normal

• Depression

• Reluctance to turn

• Standing a typical laminitic stance - hind feet further under the body with weight rocked back and front feet further in front of the body

• Tight muscles

• Hooves warmer than normal

• ‘Bounding’ pulses in affected legs

• Pain response when pressure is applied to sole

• Blood in the white line

• Fever rings visible on hoof wall



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PreventionLaminitis is very painful and debilitating so preventing laminitis is very important. This is achieved by first looking at your horse’s lifestyle so that you can identify potential triggers and remove them.

If grass is the trigger then there are ways that you can limit the amount your horse/pony eats:

• Create a dry lot (with little or no grass) and feed grass hay instead

• Buy a grazing muzzle which still allows the horse to graze and be with it’s herd but limits how much is consumed

• Create a track around your field so that the horses have to move more to get their fill

If grain is the trigger:

• Stop feeding grain - switch to sugarbeet with no molasses if your horse needs more than just grass or grass hay

• If you really feel that your horse can’t go without grain, then feed it in smaller quantities more often, rather than one big feed

If the trigger is mechanical:

• Make sure your horse’s feet are trimmed correctly - high heels and long toes are often major contributors to mechanical laminitis

• Ensure that you condition your horse properly. Start slowly so that you allow the muscles and tendons time to strengthen before doing strenuous exercise

Other ways to help:

• Movement is important to a horse prone to laminitis as it increases blood circulation which in turn flushes out the harmful toxins

• Another herb that is helpful in improving circulation is Jiaogulan (gynostemma pentaphylla)

• If your horse or pony has a cresty neck or fatty deposits it may have a magnesium deficiency so add a magnesium supplement to its food to rectify this.

Safer Grass:www.safergrass.org


Magnesium:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-horse-vitamins.html






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Laminitis in Horses - Road to RecoveryOnce you have addressed all the laminitis triggers (ie removed the cause) you can start to deal with the recovery. It is crucial to get a proper trim which will allow the hoof to start healing and growing in a tight connection between the coffin bone and hoof wall.

Often when separation occurs the toes become too long which puts even more strain on the already weak laminar connection. Long toes delay breakover (the point at which the hoof leaves the ground) which in turn rips the wall further away from the coffin bone - compare it to when your nail is bent back and pulled away from the nail bed and imagine how painful it is to the horse who has to also bear weight on it. It is therefore, very important to bring the toes back to the correct location to relieve the strain. See article on the Toe Rocker (page 26) for more information on where this should be.

High heels also add to the problem as they increase the mechanical stress on the laminar connection. They prevent the frog from being weightbearing which means that the hoof wall has to take even more weight.

To make the horse more comfortable, pads or boots may be used - see Pete Ramey’s article on the benefits of boots and pads: www.hoofrehab.com/bootarticle.htm However, bear in mind that the coffin bone needs to stay close to ground parallel (3-5 degrees depending on the trim method used) so the pads should not raise the heels. Rubber mats are also very useful as they have some give to them. Avoid deep straw or shavings beds as these allow the toe to sink (effectively raising the heels) which in turn puts pressure on the lamellae.

For more information on laminitis visit www.johnthevet.com


Boots & Pads article:www.hoofrehab.com/bootarticle.htm

Further information:www.johnthevet.com


http://www.hoofrehab.com/bootarticle.htm






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Navicular Disease - no longer a death sentenceBefore the days of the barefoot movement, navicular disease in horses used to be seen as an incurable disease. However, there are now many horses who have been completely restored - being fully sound and leading fully productive and more importantly, healthy, lives. How is this achieved? By trimming the hoof to the specifics that nature intended.

What is navicular disease?That is a very good question! Usually any non-specific (other than such caused by an injury or abscess) hoof heel pain is lumped together under the description of navicular disease, or navicular syndrome. Diagnosis often involves nerve blocking the leg and taking x-rays.

In some horses there is seen (on x-rays) to be deterioration of the navicular bone which is where the term navicular disease came from - as the degeneration was thought to be caused by a mysterious degenerative disease. It was thought that the pain came from the friction of the tendon on the damaged bone. However, not all horses who show this deterioration are lame or experience pain. Whereas others who appear to have no degeneration show severe lameness.

Where is the navicular bone located?As shown in the diagram on the left the navicular bone sits at the back of the coffin bone and provides a smooth surface for the deep flexor tendon to run over.

Navicular Disease:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/navicular-disease.html


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It was thought that the degenerative disease caused the bone to become rough which in turn damaged cartilages between the bone and the tendon which in turn damaged the tendon. However Dr James Rooney (American College of Veterinarian Pathologists) conducted a post mortem study of thousands of horses and found that not one had damage only to the bone. In all cases there was damage to the deep flexor tendon and cartilages proving that it is not the bone deterioration that causes tendon damage but the cartilages and tendon deterioration that causes the bone damage.

He then went on to prove how this came about. He found that by stimulating a toe first landing in test machines using dead horse legs the same damage could be created.

With heel first landing, the descending fetlock joint quickly tightens the deep flexor tendon. Simultaneous to this, the coffin joint rotates forward toward breakover, loosening the deep flexor.

But in a toe first landing the descending fetlock joint is still tightening the tendon just after impact, but as the heel rocks downward (rotating the coffin bone backward), the tendon is tightened from the other side at the same time. So there is increased pressure on the coffin bone which increases the friction, causing damage to the region. This was documented and published back in 1974!

The toe first landing normally occurs as a result of heel pain. So by finding the cause of the heel pain we can prevent the damage caused to the navicular bone.

When horses are born all their feet are the same and it is the physical stimulation that develops them into the distinctive front and back hoof shapes that we see in the healthy adult hoof.

However, many foals don’t get the proper stimulation because they are kept on soft ground (or stabled). This means that the lateral cartilages, digital cushion and frog do not fully develop. With the lack of development of these structures, the back of the foot is over sensitive which means the horse starts to land toe first to avoid the pain.Traditionally, horses with navicular disease are treated by applying bar shoes and pads which mask the problem by protecting the bottom of the foot. This however, does nothing to address the cause and in fact makes things worse as the structures continue to get weaker as they now have no stimulation at all. Raising the heels is another method that is used as it was thought to relieve the tension on the tendon, but again this just makes things worse. Also, by applying a shoe the natural shock absorption of the foot is compromised making the pressure even worse.



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So the way to address the cause of navicular disease is to gradually lower the heels using a barefoot trim to allow the hoof to receive some pressure on the frogs. It must be done slowly to keep the horse comfortable - too much too soon and the horse will start toe landing again to avoid the pressure on it’s sensitive frog. Boots and pads can be used to increase the stimulation. Taping a v-shaped pad to the frog will help both protect it and stimulate it. Then as much movement as possible to get the hoof to develop.

Whilst the bone deterioration may never fully recover, the horse will become sound as it no longer has any heel pain and the deterioration will have stopped.



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Forward Foot Syndrome (FFS) by Walt FriedrickThis is a discussion about a common condition without a name, so I’ll coin a phrase and call it Forward Foot Syndrome (FFS from now on). I’m not about to impart Gospel to you, it’s just personal opinion. I have barefoot horses in mind, but these comments are by no means restricted to bare feet alone.

FFS is widespread, and we need to recognize it to prevent or fix it. Let’s define it. I think most of you have seen Forward Foot Syndrome:

• long, pointy toe;

• underrun heels;

• contraction;

• improper (if any) breakover point;

• bars curvy and flat;

• frog long and narrow with the tip much too far forward and loose from the sole;

• and probably some wall flaring.

See photo examples below.





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The first thing you need to know about it is that it is probably the most common and insidious problem for domestics’ hooves. It sneaks up on your horse over time, and it happens because the horse is typically underexercised and too heavy, And because he’s getting trimmed improperly.

For comparison’s sake lets look at some feral feet. I’m not saying our domestics’ feet should look like ferals, but those examples are there to illustrate the difference between a healthy natural foot and one with FFS. Ferals are well-exercised, certainly not too fat, and they have (for their lifestyle) perfect trims. That means we’ve got our work cut out for us, but mark it: FFS can be remarkably easy both to prevent and to cure. Domestics are not doomed to develop FFS any more than ferals are.

A foot that starts out in perfect condition but then starts receiving an improper trim will take months, maybe longer, before you notice it’s got FFS. You can be diligent, pay out plenty in farrier fees or sore backs in your effort to ensure good feet, yet FFS develops. Yet all it takes to prevent FFS is to observe just a few critical aspects of the trim itself.

When correcting FFS, the wall needs special attention. Depending on the severity of flaring, you may need to nip away the bottom of the wall. Some trimmers cut back the toe vertically. That’s essentially the same as a severe rocker and mustang roll. The objective is to remove leverage from the extended wall digging into the ground. The advantage in applying the severe rocker/mustang roll is that you’re in little danger of taking it back too far, but you may have to touch up the toe more often than every 3 weeks.



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The road to bringing FFS hooves back to health can be long, but you can do it. It’s not difficult, and you must be diligent - do frequent trims and ALWAYS follow all the steps. Take “before” pictures so you can compare the “afters” - you may even frame them side-by-side, you’ll eventually feel so good about it.

Photos courtesy of the barefoothorsecare yahoo group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/barefoothorsecare/ - This group is dedicated to the care and welfare of barefoot horses, everywhere, all breeds. We specialize in hoof-related matters, although we discuss other subjects such as general physical problems, nutrition, lifestyle, maintenance, behavioral issues. This is a restricted and monitored list and off-topic posts are discouraged. Personal attacks against individuals or trim methods are not tolerated. The objective is to share problems concerning our horses and to offer solutions. We encourage “newbies” as well as experienced horsepeople to join us. We “owners” are just caretakers who’ve assumed the responsibility for our equine friends, and those who join here take that responsibility seriously.

Barefoothorsecare:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/barefoothorsecare/


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/barefoothorsecare

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/barefoothorsecare


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Toe RockerThe application of a toe rocker or bevel to a hoof improves breakover and encourages a tighter connection between the hoof wall and coffin bone.

In a healthy hoof the hoof wall is tightly attached to the coffin bone. The coffin bone and hoof wall both have structures call laminae attached to them and these laminae interlock with each other to form a very tight bond - imagine the bond as a closed zipper or a velcro fastening.

As the hoof wall and sole grows down and away from the bottom edge of the coffin bone the old laminae form the white line which is visible when looking at the sole. When there is a tight connection the white line will be approx 2-3mm wide. If the connection between the hoof wall and the coffin bone is compromised this will be reflected in the white line which will be wider - the bottom of the zipper is now starting to open. The wider it is, the worse the connection.

Sometimes the sole stretches forward and hides the stretched white line making it appear to be healthier than it really is. There are two ways to double check if this is the case on your horse. The first is to look at the angle of growth of the wall at the toe. Is the angle tighter at the top than the bottom? If it is then the white line is stretched. (See second set of illustrations below - the dotted green line shows the change in angle.) The second is to look at the sole. Is there a ridge around the toe and then a gap between the ridge and the hoof wall? If so you probably don’t have a really tight connection.

BreakoverThe hoof is designed to breakover in a position that applies the least amount of stress on the laminar connection. This point is at the outer edge of the toe callus on a healthy hoof.

Therefore the point of breakover on a healthy hoof should start at the white line. Any further forward and the laminae will be stressed.

The illustrations below show the difference between a traditional farrier trim, (first illustration) where the hoof wall is trimmed flat, compared to a barefoot trim (second illustration) where the bevel and mustang roll have been applied. Notice how much farther back the barefoot trim brings the point of breakover - reducing the stress on the lamina connection.

Using a bevel or toe rocker is even more important when dealing with a horse that has laminitis and rotation and a stretched white line.





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In the following illustrations the first one shows how far forward the toe can get with a regular “flat” trim. The second illustration shows how it is really important to start the rocker at the back (the side closest to the sole) of the stretched white line as indicated. If you apply it starting at the front edge of the white line the breakover will still be too far forward and the wall will continue to be pulled away from the bone.



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When applying the breakover however, you must be very careful not to rasp into the toe callus else you will lower the height of the toe (measured vertically from the hairline at the toe to the ground). The start of the breakover should be just in front of the highest point of the toe when looking at the sole and should angle out at approx 30°.



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It may be necessary to use hoof boots for a while when you first start transitioning your horse to go barefoot. Often a newly de-shod hoof is not able to cope with the varying surfaces you may encounter when riding or turned out and so boots are used to make the horse more comfortable until the hoof has built up condition. Some horses are lucky and don’t need them but for most horses it is something that you do need to invest in - although the majority of horses only need them on their front hooves.

They can also be used to make a horse more comfortable when they are suffering from abscesses, laminitis/founder or navicular.

Some have accessories which help prevent rubbing. Also there are pads available that can be used on sensitive horses or to help stimulate weakened areas of the hoof, such as the frog. By cutting the pad into the shape of the frog and either taping over the frog or attaching it to the boot, extra stimulus is provided to help develop the frog and digital cushion. Pete Ramey has written a great article on the use of boots and pads: www.hoofrehab.com/bootarticle.htm

This page gives you the chance to review and compare the wide range of boots that are now avaiable.

In general, they fall in to three groups: boots designed for soaking the hoof; ones for rehabilitation and limited use; and ones designed for riding. The riding group is further split into two with the option of glue on boots which are glued directly onto the hoof.

My experience has been with the Boa’s, Old Macs and Easyboot Epics and out of those three my preference for riding in is for the Easyboot Epic’s as the rigid structure of the boot does not come above the hairline so there is less interference with joint articulation and less chance of rubbing. They also take pads well. The Old Macs and Boa’s however, are more forgiving when selecting a size and will accommodate wrappings such as a poultice which is not possible with the Epic’s due to their fit. Each of boots listed here have unique benefits so the final decision should be based on what your horse’s needs are at the time of purchase as you may find certain boots will be more suitable than others.

Each boot manufacturer has slightly different size ratios so you may find some boot shapes more suitable than others for your horse’s individual hoof shape. This is an important fact to remember when deciding which boot to purchase as the better the fit, the less problems you will encounter.

Hoof Boots

Hoof Boots:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/hoof-boots.html

Boots & Pads article:www.hoofrehab.com/bootarticle.htm

Navicular Disease:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/navicular-disease.html




http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/hoof-boots.html


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/navicular-disease.html



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MeasuringIt is important to match the width and length of the hoof to the boot size. The front hooves of most horses tend to be more round in shape and wider than the hind hooves. The best fit may require a smaller size for the hinds.

How to get the correct size boot for your horse:

• Measure the width of the hoof across the bottom at the widest point.

• Measure the length of the hoof from the toe to the buttress line of the heel. The buttress line is the farthest weight bearing point of the heel.

• Compare your measurement with the proper size chart for the boot. If you are taking your measurements in inches, use the imperial size chart. If you are taking your measurements in millimeters, use the metric size chart.

• Ideally, the width and length measurement will fit into the same boot size. If the width and length measurements indicate different boot sizes, select the larger boot size.



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Soaking BootsPrices shown are the manufacturer’s recommended retail price (RRP) in US dollars as of Jan 2009. The tables below show a comparison for each boot with a more detailed description on the following pages.

Davis Horse Boot - $22 each Width: 3 3/4” - 9 1/2”

EasySoaker - $26 each Width: 3 3/4” - 7 1/4”

Smart™ Soaking Boot - $40 each One size: fits upto 9 1/2”

Davis Horse Boots:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/davis-horse-boot.html

EasySoaker:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easysoaker.html

Smart Soaking Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/smart-soaking-boot.html


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/davis-horse-boot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easysoaker.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/smart-soaking-boot.html


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Easyboot Rx - $65-75 each Width: 3 3/16” - 7 9/16”

Castle Plastics Boot - $37 each Width: 4 1/2” - 5 5/8”

Soft-Ride Comfort Boot - $175-200 per pair Width: 2 3/4” - 6 3/4”

HOOFix Boot - $38 each Width: 4 1/2” - 5 1/4”

Saber Sneaker Boot - $100 each Width: 2” - 6 1/4”

Equine Slipper - $40 each Width: 4 3/4” - 7 1/2”

Therapy Boots - for hooves during rehabPrices shown are the manufacturer’s recommended retail price (RRP) in US dollars as of Jan 2009. The tables below show a comparison for each boot with a more detailed description on the following pages.

Easyboot RX:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-rx.html

Soft-Ride Comfort Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/soft-ride-comfort-boot.html

Sabre Sneaker Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/sabre-sneaker.html

Castle Plastic Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/castle-plastics-hoofboot.html

HOOFix Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/hoofix-emergency-boot.html

Equine Slipper:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/equine-slipper.html


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-rx.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/soft-ride-comfort-boot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/sabre-sneaker.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/castle-plastics-hoofboot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/hoofix-emergency-boot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/equine-slipper.html


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Boa Horse Boot - $164 per pair Width: 3 1/2” - 7 1/2”

Old Mac’s - $164-180 per pair Width: 4 1/8” - 5 13/16”

Easyboot Bare - $75-90 each Width: 3 3/16” - 7 9/16”

Easyboot Epic - $75-90 each Width: 3 3/16” - 7

Marquis Hoof Boot - $299 per pair Width: 3 12/16” - 6 4/16”

Renegade Hoof Boot - $84.50 each Width: 4 3/16” - 5 1/4”

Riding BootsPrices shown are the manufacturer’s recommended retail price (RRP) in US dollars as of Jan 2009. The tables below show a comparison for each boot with a more detailed description on the following pages.

Boa Horse Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/boa-horse-boot.html

Easyboot Barewww.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-bare.html

Marquis Hoof Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/marquis-supergrip-boot.html

Old Mac’s:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/old-mac-horse-boot.html

Easyboot Epicwww.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-epic.html

Renegade Hoof Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/renegade-hoof-boot.html


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/boa-horse-boot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-bare.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/marquis-supergrip-boot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/old-mac-horse-boot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-epic.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/renegage-hoof-boot.html


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Hoofwing Hoof Boot - $169-270 per pair Width: 3” - 9”

Swiss Horse Boot - $63.90 each Width: 3 3/8” - 6”

Easyboot Grip - $75 each Width: 4 3/8” - 5 1/2”

Easyboot Glove- $56 each Width: 96mm - 131mm

Simple Boot - $119.95 per pair Length: 4” - 6 1/8”

Horse-Mocs - $65-85 each Custom fit to every size

Hoofwing Hoof Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/hoofwing-boot.html

Easyboot Grip:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-grip.html

Simple Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/simple-boot.html

Swiss Horse Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/swiss-horse-boot.html

Easyboot Glove:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-glove.html

Horse Mocs:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-mocs.html


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/hoofwing-boot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-grip.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/simple-boot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/swiss-horse-boot.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-glove.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-mocs.html


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Marquis Glue On - $69.99 each Width: 3 12/16 - 6 4/16”

Renegade Glue On - $24.95 each Width: 4 3/16” - 5”

Easyboot Glue On - $24 each ($92 for 4) Width: 96mm - 131mm

Glue-on BootsPrices shown are the manufacturer’s recommended retail price (RRP) in US dollars as of Jan 2009. The tables below show a comparison for each boot with a more detailed description on the following pages.

Marquis Glue On:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/marquis-glue-on.html

Renegade Glue On:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/renegade-glue-on.html

Easyboot Glue Onwww.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-glue-on.html


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/marquis-glue-on.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/renegade-glue-on.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-glue-on.html


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Davis Horse BootThe Davis Horse Boot is designed for soaking the hoof. It has a soft, pliable upper, which opens wide for easy on/off application - and closes tightly with a velcro strap to prevent liquid spilling out. However the plastic can get pretty stiff in cold weather so during the colder months it is best to warm it up before trying to put the hoof in it. When removing in winter you can first apply a warm wet towel to the top for a few minutes, which will allow it to come off easier.

The bottom is triple-layered using a tough polyvinyl compound so it can be re-used many times and has a rough surface to prevent slipping on concrete. The boot also comes with a therapeutic pad which wicks medications to the sole of the hoof.

SizingSize Width Length00 3 3/4” (95mm) 4 1/4” (108mm)0 4 1/2” (114mm) 5” (127mm)1 5 1/4” (133mm) 5 5/8” (142mm)2 5 5/8” (142mm) 6 1/8” (155mm)3 6 1/4” (159mm) 7” (178mm)4 7 1/4” (184mm) 7 3/4” (197mm)5 8” (203mm) 8 1/2” (216mm)6 9 1/2” (241mm) 9 1/2”” (241mm)

Davis Horse Boot FittingBecause they can be quite stiff in cold weather you will find it easier if you get a slightly larger size boot, especially if your horse’s hoof matches an exact boot size. However, if the boot is too much bigger than the hoof it is more likely to twist around if your horse moves around whilst the boot is on.

CostAvailable from most horse stores at approx $22(US) each.

Davis Manufacturingwww.davismanufacturing.com/files/products/horse_boot.php

Davis Horse Boots:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/davis-horse-boot.html

Davis Manufacturing websitewww.davismanufacturing.com/files/products/horse_boot.php


http://www.davismanufacturing.com/files/products/horse_boot.php

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/davis-horse-boot.html

http://www.davismanufacturing.com/files/products/horse_boot.php


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EasySoaker Horse BootThe Easysoaker is designed for soaking the hoof. It has a soft, pliable upper, which opens wide for easy on/off application - and closes tightly with a velcro strap to prevent liquid spilling out. However the plastic can get pretty stiff in cold weather so during the colder months it is best to warm it up before trying to put the hoof in it. When removing in winter you can first apply a warm wet towel to the top for a few minutes, which will allow it to come off easier.

The bottom has a textured surface to prevent slipping. There are also pull straps on the top of the boot to assist in applying the boot.

SizingSize Width LengthSmall 3 3/4” - 4 1/2” (95-115mm) 4 1/4” - 5” (108-127mm)Medium 4 1/2” - 5 1/4” (115-134mm) 5” - 5 3/4” (127-146mm)Large 5 1/4” - 5 3/4” (134-146mm) 5 3/4” - 6 1/4” (146-159mm)X-Large 5 3/4” - 6 1/4” (146-159mm) 6 1/4” - 6 3/4” (159-172mm)XX-Large 6 1/4” - 6 3/4” (159-172mm) 6 3/4” 7 1/4” (172-184mm)XXX-Large 6 3/4” - 7 1/4” (172-184mm) 7 1/4” - 7 3/4” (184-190mm)

FittingBecause they can be quite stiff in cold weather you will find it easier if you get a slightly larger size boot, especially if your horse’s hoof matches an exact boot size. This also allows more space for bandages and liquids. However, if the boot is too much bigger than the hoof it is more likely to twist around if your horse moves around whilst the boot is on.

CostApprox $26(US) each - larger sizes are slightly more.

EasyCare Inc: www.easycareinc.com

EasySoaker:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easysoaker.html

EasyCare Inc website:www.easycareinc.com


http://www.easycareinc.com

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easysoaker.html



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Smart Soaking BootThe Smart™ Soaking Boot is made of ballistic nylon with waterproof seals and includes a comfort disk that adds durability to the base. It has an easy open front and the ergonomic design enables it to stand up on it’s own when filled with water.

There is a velcro closure and a control strap which helps when putting the boot on and taking it off.

SizingThe boot comes in just one size - 13” high x 9.5” width at base - but has an ample opening for multiple sized hooves.

CostApprox $40(US) each.

Smart Soaking Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/smart-soaking-boot.html


http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/smart-soaking-boot.html


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EasyBoot RXThe Easyboot RX is designed for use as a therapy boot, offering stability and support without being heavy or clunky.

The sole is made of a durable yet soft material similar to human orthotics. The boot has three air vents which aid in both keeping the hoof cool and preventing dirt accumulation.

The boot is easy to apply as the upper folds down allowing the hoof to slip in without force. The boot then fastens using two velcro tabs which ensure a snug fit.

Each boot comes with an EasyCare Comfort Pad which provides extra padding and support.

These boots can be used for light turn out.

Easyboot RX SizingThe boots come in nine sizes and you are advised to buy bigger sizes if you intend on using bandages or 12mm pads.

SizingSize Width Length00 3 13/16” - 4 3/8” (98-110mm) 4 3/16” - 4 5/8” (106-117mm)0 4 3/8” - 4 9/16” (111-116mm) 4 5/8” - 4 15/16” (118-124mm)1 4 9/16” - 4 7/8” (117-123mm) 4 15/16” - 5 1/8” (125-130mm)2 4 7/8” - 5 1/8” (124-130mm) 5 1/8” - 5 9/16” (131-140mm)3 5 1/8” - 5 1/2” (131-139mm) 5 9/16” - 5 15/16” (141-150mm)4 5 1/2” - 5 15/16” (140-150mm) 5 15/16” - 6 7/16” (151-163mm)5 5 15/16” - 6 7/16” (151-163mm) 6 7/16” - 6 7/8” (164-174mm)6 6 7/16” - 6 7/8” (164-175mm) 6 7/8” - 7 7/16” (175-188mm)7 6 7/8” - 7 9/16” (176-192mm) 7 7/16” - 7 3/4” (189-195mm)

Cost$65(US) each - sizes 4-7 are $75 each.

EasyBoot RX:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-rx.html



http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-rx.html



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Soft Ride Comfort BootSoft Ride Comfort Boots can be used with or without shoes and consists of a tough outer boot combined with an orthotic insert pad system.

The sole is contoured, non-slip and shock absorbing and the boot is both durable and washable.

The boot comes with the standard blue gel orthotic, but there are a variety of additional orthotic inserts with differing densities and dual density pads available.

The boots can be used as a therapy boot and also for transportation, showing, stalling and breeding.

The boot slips on easily and is secured with heavy-duty velcro ankle straps.

SizingSize Width Length10 2 3/4” 2 3/4”9 3 5/8” 3 3/4”8 3 7/8” 4 1/4”7 4 1/2” 5”6 5 1/8” 5 1/4”5 5 3/8” 5 1/2”4 5 5/8” 6”3 6 1/8” 6 3/8”2 6 1/2” 7 1/4”1 6 3/4” 7 3/4”

CostApprox $175(US) per pair for sizes 4 through 10 and approx $200(US) per pair for sizes 1 through 3. Replacement inserts are approx $60-80 per pair. www.soft-ride.com/index.html

Soft Ride Comfort Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/soft-ride-comfort-boot.html

Soft Ride website:www.soft-ride.com/index.html


http://www.soft-ride.com/index.html

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/soft-ride-comfort-boot.html

http://www.soft-ride.com/index.html


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Sabre SneakerThe Sabre Sneaker Rehab Boot is made of 1000 denier cordura with a soft, padded top and upper. The large tongue opens wide for easy on and off and the boot is tightened with a strong boot lacing system.

The inner sole is smooth, solid, cushioning rubber and the outer sole consists of a double layered, textured thermoplastic making it very durable.

The stitching is made using super heavy-duty outdoor grade nylon and the boot is washable.

They can also be used for light riding but are not designed as a heavy duty riding boot.

SizingSize WidthMini 2” - 2 1/2”Mini B 2 1/2” - 3”Pony 3” - 3 1/2”A 3 3/4” - 4 1/4”B 4 3/8” - 4 3/4”C 4 7/8” - 5 1/4”D 5 3/8” - 5 3/4”E 5 7/8” - 6 1/4”

Cost$100(US) each.

http://sabresneakers.com/orderinganddealers.html

Sabre Sneaker:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/sabre-sneaker.html

Sabre Sneaker website:http://sabresneakers.com/orderinganddealers.html



http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/sabre-sneaker.html



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Castle Plastics Hoof BootThe body of the Castle Plastics Hoofboot is constructed of lightweight neoprene rubber and the bottom is a durable polyurethane. Simple to apply, the boot slips on and attaches with a velcro closure for a secure fit. The website says it can be used for arena riding, assist in medicating the hoof, for an injury and many more uses.

The bottom has a textured surface to prevent slipping and the boot closes with velcro straps.

SizingSize Width Length00 4 1/2” (115mm) 4 7/8” (124mm)0 4 3/4” (121mm) 5 1/8” (130mm)1 5” (127mm) 5 3/8” (136mm)2 5 3/8” (136mm) 5 3/4” (146mm)3 5 5/8” (142mm) 6 1/8” (151mm)

CostApprox $37(US) each - larger sizes are slightly more.

www.castleplastics.com/distributors/index.htm

Castle Plastics Hoof Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/castle-plastics-hoofboot.html

Castle Plastics website:www.castleplastics.com/distributors/index.htm


http://www.castleplastics.com/distributors/index.htm

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/castle-plastics-hoofboot.html

http://www.castleplastics.com/distributors/index.htm


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Hoofix Emergency BootThe Hoofix Emergency Boot is extremely lightweight at less than 5oz and is very compact so it can be taken with you on rides. It is made of a high-tech fabric that provides long wear without being bulky or heavy.

The sole is skid resistant and made from a material that incorporates ground tires. Each boot comes with a pastern band to prevent rubbing.

The boot slips on easily and is secured with velcro ankle straps and can be used as both an emergency boot or as a therapy boot, although there is also a Treatment boot available which is slightly larger size-wise.

SizingThe Emergency Boot comes in two sizes: small horse (4 1/2” x 5 1/2”) and regular horse (5 1/4” x 6”).

The Treatment Boot comes in three sizes: medium pony (4 3/4” x 5 3/4”), regular horse (5 1/4” x 6”) and large horse (5 3/4” x 6 1/2”).


www.plumshadefarm.com/products.asp

Hoofix Emergency Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/hoofix-emergency-boot.html

Manufacturer’s website:www.plumshadefarm.com/products.asp


http://www.plumshadefarm.com/products.asp

http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/hoofix-emergency-boot.html

http://www.plumshadefarm.com/products.asp


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Equine SlipperThe Equine Slipper Rehab Boot was developed to aid in treating, medicating and protecting the equine hoof. It provides protection, keeps the hoof clean, holds medication in place, replaces bulky foot wraps, is safe and easy to apply, and is 100% machine washable!

The body is made from heavy ply cordura and is attached to a high-grade leather base which makes it both durable and pliable and so comfortable for the horse.

The opening is wide to make it easy to put on and take off and is closed using velcro tabs. It is designed for indoor use as use outside will increase the wear on the slipper.

SizingSize Width LengthSmall 4 3/4” 4 1/2”Medium 5 3/4” 6”Large 6 1/2” 6 1/2”Extra Large 7 1/2” 7 1/2”


http://bluegrass-equine.com/products/the-equine-slipper

Equine Slipper:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/equine-slipper.html

Manufacturer’s website:http://bluegrass-equine.com/products/the-equine-slipper



http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/equine-slipper.html



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Boa Horse BootThe Boa Horse Boot uses the unique Boa Lacing System™ which is based on the design used in snowboard boots. This makes them very easy to put on and take off and allows fine adjustments to be made. They are robustly made using leather and have a urethane sole and are a bit less bulky than the Old Macs. The breakover is fairly good although it’s a good idea to rasp it wider ie further out to each side, and they have good traction.

I have one pair of these boots which I like, although they can be tricky to deal with when they have been in muddy water as the dial and cap can be hard to grip. Also they are easy to over tighten which will cause bruising under the dial on the front hoof wall and coronet (there is a pad that you can buy to prevent this). I used my pair for over a year (although I didn’t use them that often) and they showed no signs of wear.

SizingIt is important to match the width and length of the hoof to the boot size. The front hooves of most horses tend to be more round and wider than the hind hooves. The best fit may require a smaller size for the hind.

If the width and length measurements indicate different sizes, select the larger size.

Size Width Length00 3 1/2” - 3 7/8” (89-98mm) 4” - 4 3/8” (101-111mm)0 3 7/8” - 4 1/4” (98-108mm) 4 3/8” - 4 5/8” (111-117mm)1 4 1/4” - 4 7/8” (108-124mm) 4 5/8” - 5 1/8” (117-130mm)2 4 7/8” - 5 1/4” (124-133mm) 5 1/8” - 5 3/8” (130-136mm)3 5 1/4” - 5 7/8” (133-149mm) 5 3/8” - 5 7/8” (136-149mm)4 5 7/8” - 6 1/4” (149-159mm) 5 7/8” - 6 1/4” (149-159mm)5 6 1/4” - 6 11/16” (159-169mm) 6 1/4” - 6 11/16” (159-169mm)6 6 11/16” - 6 15/16” (169-176mm) 6 11/16” - 6 15/16” (169-176mm)7 6 15/16” - 7 3/8” (176-186mm) 6 15/16” - 7 3/8” (176-186mm)8 7 3/8” - 7 1/2” (186-192mm) 7 3/8” - 7 7/8” (186-200mm)

CostApprox $164(US) per pair.

www.easycareinc.com

Boa Horse Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/boa-horse-boot.html




http://www.all-natural-horse-care.com/boa-horse-boot.html



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Easyboot BareThe Easyboot Bare has been under development since early 2005. I have no personal experience of them but they are becoming very popular and have been used in 100 and 250 mile endurance events under some extreme conditions. They are a little tricky to initially fit but perform well once they are on and provide a simple, close-fitting boot that constantly adjusts to the hoof.

The Easyboot Bare is designed to stretch and flex, mimicking the movements of the naturally bare hoof. The sole has also been modeled on the barefoot hoof.

The 2007 model has a lower profile comfort strap, thicker bungee and improved rivets.

SizingIdeally, the width and length measurement will fit into the same boot size. If the width and length measurements indicate different boot sizes, select the larger size. If the width and length measurements are different by more than one size, EasyCare hoof boots are not recommended.

Size Width LengthPony 3 3/16” - 3 3/8” (78-85mm) 3 3/8” - 3 5/8” (85-92mm)000 3 3/8” - 3 13/16” (86-97mm) 3 5/8” - 4 3/16” (93-105mm)00 3 13/16” - 4 3/8” (98-110mm) 4 3/16” - 4 5/8” (106-117mm)0 4 3/8” - 4 9/16” (111-116mm) 4 5/8” - 4 15/16” (118-124mm)1 4 9/16” - 4 7/8” (117-123mm) 4 15/16” - 5 1/8” (125-130mm)2 4 7/8” - 5 1/8” (124-130mm) 5 1/8” - 5 9/16” (131-140mm)3 5 1/8” - 5 1/2” (131-139mm) 5 9/16” - 5 15/16” (141-150mm)4 5 1/2” - 5 15/16” (140-150mm) 5 15/16” - 6 7/16” (151-163mm)5 5 15/16” - 6 7/16” (151-163mm) 6 7/16” - 6 7/8” (164-174mm)6 6 7/16” - 6 7/8” (164-175mm) 6 7/8” - 7 7/16” (175-188mm)7 6 7/8” - 7 9/16” (176-192mm) 7 7/16” - 7 3/4” (189-195mm)

CostApprox $75(US) each - sizes 3-7 are around $90 each.

www.easycareinc.com

Easyboot Bare:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-bare.html




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Marquis Supergrip BootThe Marquis Supergrip Boot is made in Germany by Dr Helmut Marquis.

They are unique in that the fit is attained using air chambers that you pump up after placing the boot on the hoof. These chambers hug the bulbs of the hoof, holding the boot firmly, and comfortably, in place. They provide an optimal fit and enable adaption to differences in size and shape which means the fit will adapt as the hoof remodels during the transition phase.

Also the front of the boot can accommodate various toe angles through it’s unique design.

After studying the gliding and stopping characteristics of the bare hoof the Marquis’ synthestic sole was developed to closely match those characteristics.

All parts are replaceable including the sole and there are removeable studs available for extra traction and a sliding plate is being developed for reiners.

The boot comes in black as standard but there is also a flourescent yellow special edition available for safety in poor light conditions.

SizingA heel height of between 1 - 1 9/16” (25-40mm) is the ideal range for this boot. The air chambers can be adjusted if the heel is higher such as in the case of a club foot.

SizingSize Width0 3 12/16” - 4 8/16” (95-114mm)1 4 8/16” - 4 13/16” (115-122mm)2 4 14/16” - 5 3/16” (123-132mm)3 5 4/16” - 5 8/16” (133-140mm)4 5 9/16” - 5 14/16” (141-149mm)5 5 15/16” - 6 4/16” (150-158mm)

CostRRP $299(US) per pair.

www.marquisboot.com

Marquis Supergrip Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/marquis-supergrip-boot.html

Marquis website:www.marquisboot.com


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Old Mac Horse BootThe Old Mac Horse Boot was developed by an Australian farrier, David MacDonald. The original design was fairly round which made it a little tricky to fit to most recovering hooves as the hooves tended to be more oblong. However the new ‘G2’ boot has addressed this issue and have been re-engineered for a sleeker look, better performance and greater longevity.

I have had three pair’s of original Old Mac Horse Boots and I think they are good. They are very easy to get on and off. The only issues I had are with them wearing out in the heel region and the poor traction on wet grass. These issues have been covered by the re-design of the G2. The G2 also has improved breakover at the toe - the original version had a point on them which needed to be rasped off to achieve a better breakover (see photo - the new G2 is on the left).

SizingOld Mac Horse Boots are available in 9 sizes (0-8) with each size increasing by 5mm (3/16 inch) in width and length. Before you take hoof measurements, please ensure your horse has an accurate trim.

The correct Old Mac Horse Boot size is the LARGEST of the sizes you selected from the charts. It is most often the length size. Sizes determined from hoof length and width will often differ; choose the largest size, NOT the smaller size NOR a size in between.

If the LENGTH exceeds the WIDTH by 4 or more sizes, Inserts may be indicated, but FIRST, please double check to ensure that you haven’t included the heel bulbs in the measurement.

Size Width Length0 4 1/8” - 4 5/16” (105-110mm) 3 3/4” - 3 15/16” (95-100mm)1 4 5/16” - 4 1/2” (110-115mm) 3 15/16” - 4 1/8” (100-105mm)2 4 1/2” - 4 11/16” (115-120mm) 4 1/8” - 4 5/16” (105-110mm)3 4 11/16” - 4 7/8” (120-125mm) 4 5/16” - 4 1/2” (110-115mm)4 4 7/8” - 5 1/16” (125-130mm) 4 1/2” - 4 11/16” (115-120mm)5 5 1/16” - 5 1/4” (130-135mm) 4 11/16” - 4 7/8” (120-125mm)6 5 1/4” - 5 7/16” (135-140mm) 4 7/8” - 5 1/16” (125-130mm)7 5 7/16” - 5 5/8” (140-145mm) 5 1/16” - 5 1/4” (130-135mm)8 5 5/8” - 5 13/16” (145-150mm) 5 1/4” - 5 7/16” (135-140mm)

CostApprox $164(US) per pair - sizes 7 and 8 are around $180. www.easycareinc.com

Old Mac Horse Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/old-mac-horse-boot.html




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Easyboot & Easyboot EpicThere are two options available - the Easyboot which has no gaitor and the Easyboot Epic which has a gaitor. The Easyboot Epic is one of my favourite boots. I have been using them for the last three years and they perform very well. I use them with the gaitor as this makes them very secure on the hoof and much less likely to get lost especially if used for turnout. If you use them without the gaitor you need to make sure you get a really tight fit.The gaitors don’t last forever but you can get replacements and Easycare are good about replacing defective ones. (With the older style gaitors the stitching was a weak spot, but they have improved and reinforced the stitching in the new updated gaitors.)

The boots tighten using a cable and buckle system which allows numerous adjustments and the newer models have a stronger cable that resists fraying. The tread on the bottom of the boot is really durable and as all the parts on the boot can be replaced should they break that means you will get many miles out of the boot. I have a couple of pairs that are 3 years old and there is very little wear on the tread.

The breakover isn’t bad but can be improved by rasping the toe between the 10 and 2 o’clock positions. Using pads in the boots helps stimulate the sole and frog and also helps secure the boot if it is a little loose on the hoof.

SizingIdeally, the width and length measurement will fit into the same boot size. If the width and length measurements indicate different boot sizes, select the larger Easyboot Epic size. If the width and length measurements are different by more than one size, EasyCare hoof boots are not recommended.

Size Width LengthPony 3 3/16” - 3 3/8” (78-85mm) 3 3/8” - 3 5/8” (85-92mm)000 3 3/8” - 3 13/16” (86-97mm) 3 5/8” - 4 3/16” (93-105mm)00 3 13/16” - 4 3/8” (98-110mm) 4 3/16” - 4 5/8” (106-117mm)0 4 3/8” - 4 9/16” (111-116mm) 4 5/8” - 4 15/16” (118-124mm)1 4 9/16” - 4 7/8” (117-123mm) 4 15/16” - 5 1/8” (125-130mm)2 4 7/8” - 5 1/8” (124-130mm) 5 1/8” - 5 9/16” (131-140mm)3 5 1/8” - 5 1/2” (131-139mm) 5 9/16” - 5 15/16” (141-150mm)4 5 1/2” - 5 15/16” (140-150mm) 5 15/16” - 6 7/16” (151-163mm)5 5 15/16” - 6 7/16” (151-163mm) 6 7/16” - 6 7/8” (164-174mm)6 6 7/16” - 6 7/8” (164-175mm) 6 7/8” - 7 7/16” (175-188mm)7 6 7/8” - 7 9/16” (176-192mm) 7 7/16” - 7 3/4” (189-195mm)

CostApprox $75(US) each - sizes 3-7 are around $90 each. www.easycareinc.com

Easyboot Epic:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-epic.html




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Renegade Hoof BootThe Renegade Hoof Boot is one of the newest designs currently on the market (2008) and comes in a wide variety of colours.

The manufacturer states that “the Renegade® Hoof Boot is the most thoroughly developed and most highly tested new hoof boot design ever... and all before going to the open market”.

I have not yet tried them but I love the look of the boots and think they will provide a great talking point for getting bare feet noticed!

The design highly respects the soft tissue of the hoof capsule and lower leg and does not obstruct the movement of the pastern bones.

SizingIn nearly all cases, boot width will be the dominate measurement for determining boot size. In the case of a hoof fitting the width of the boot but the length of the boot is more than needed, the manufacturer will trim down the back of the boot by up to 3/8”(10mm) at no charge.

Also consider the height of the heels for the horse in question. The boot was designed primarily for low heels and short toes but will also work for medium height heels. Horses with high heels my have problems using the boot and in most cases will also need over length cables. For these horses it is suggested that the high heels be addressed through natural hoof care methods as a precursor to fitting the boots.

Size Width Length00 4 3/16” (106.5mm) 4 3/4” (120.5mm)0 4 9/16” (116mm) 5” (127mm)1 4 3/4” (121mm) 5 1/4” (134mm)2 5” (127mm) 5 1/2” (140mm)2W 5 1/4” (133mm) 5 1/2” (140mm)

CostRRP $84.50(US) each.

www.renegadehoofboots.com/index.html

Renegade Hoof Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/renegade-hoof-boot.html

Renegade website:www.renegadehoofboots.com/index.html


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Hoofwing BootThe Hoofwing Boot (formerly HorseSneakers) were one of the first hoof boots developed for barefoot horses back in 1986 and are semi-custom made from measurements of your horse’s hooves.

Their open design allows excellent air circulation which makes it possible to keep them on 24/7 which makes them great for rehab. Improvements to their original design make Hoofwings excellent for trail riding and many other horse activities.

The Hoofwing base is made with a very durable urethane with thousands of tiny air bubbles incorporated into it. These bubbles reduce concussion and make the bases very light-weight. If you require extra traction the manufacturer will inbed sand into the base or for even more traction, carbide chips.

The ‘wings’ are made with a stretchable kevlar fabric laminated to an open cell neoprene-like material.

The entire Hoofwing is repairable. They come in a variety of colors including: black, red, gray, blue, white, brown, yellow, orange and green.

Full custom Hoofwings can be made to fit any size or shape hooves.

CostRRP from $169-270(US) depending on size, per pair.www.horsneaker.com/index.htm

Hoofwing Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/hoofwing-boot.html

Manufacturer’s website:www.horsneaker.com/index.htm

Width Length3” (76mm) 3 1/2” (89mm)3 1/2” (89mm) 4” (102mm)4” (102mm) 4 1/2” (114mm)4 1/4” (108mm) 4 3/4” (121mm)4 1/2” (114mm) 5” (127mm)4 3/4” (121mm) 5 1/4” (133mm)5” (127mm) 5” (127mm)5” (127mm) 5 1/2” (140mm)5 1/4” (133mm) 5 3/4” (146mm)5 1/4” (133mm) 6” Hind (152mm)5 1/2” (133mm) 6” (152mm)5 3/4” (146mm) 5 3/4” (146mm)

Width Length5 3/4” (146mm) 6 1/4” (159mm)6” (152mm) 6” (152mm)6” (152mm) 6 1/2” (165mm)6 1/2” (165mm) 7” (178mm)6 3/4” (172mm) 7 1/4” (184mm)7” (178mm) 7 1/2” (191mm)7 1/2” (191mm) 8” (203mm)8” (203mm) 8 1/2” (216mm)8 1/2” (216mm) 9” (229mm)9” (229mm) 9 1/2” (235mm)9” (229mm) 9 1/2” Hind (235mm)


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Easyboot GripThe Easyboot Grip is basically the same boot as the Epic but with a much more aggressive tread pattern on the sole. It comes with the gaitor which makes them very secure on the hoof and much less likely to fall off and get lost.

They a designed purely for use in soft muddy conditions, wet grass and snow and should not be used on dry, hard surfaces.

The boots tighten using a cable and buckle system which allows numerous adjustments and the newer models have a stronger cable that resists fraying. All the parts on the boot can be replaced should they break, which means you will get many miles out of the boot.

The breakover isn’t bad but can be improved by rasping the toe between the 10 and 2 o’clock positions.

Using pads in the boots helps stimulate the sole and frog and also helps secure the boot if it is a little loose on the hoof.

SizingIdeally, the width and length measurement will fit into the same boot size. If the width and length measurements indicate different boot sizes, select the larger Easyboot Epic size. If the width and length measurements are different by more than one size, EasyCare hoof boots are not recommended.

Size Width Length0 4 3/8” - 4 9/16” (111-116mm) 4 5/8” - 4 15/16” (118-124mm)1 4 9/16” - 4 7/8” (117-123mm) 4 15/16” - 5 1/8” (125-130mm)2 4 7/8” - 5 1/8” (124-130mm) 5 1/8” - 5 9/16” (131-140mm)3 5 1/8” - 5 1/2” (131-139mm) 5 9/16” - 5 15/16” (141-150mm)


www.easycareinc.com

Easyboot Grip:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-grip.html




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Simple BootThe Simple Boot by Cavallo is made of a leather upper with a Softee leather foam-filled collar for comfort around the top. The sole is made of a high performance thermo plastic urethane compound and has an all-terrain tread pattern to minimize mud build-up and a recessed center to minimize pressure.The inside of the sole also has a 0.6mm raised rim to provide sole relief for the hoof. The boot fastens at the front with industrial grade velcro closures.

They are constructed to be durable with rustproof metal and waterproof thread and have built-in drainage.

SizingSimple Boots are available in 7 sizes (0-6). Before you take hoof measurements, please ensure your horse has an accurate trim. The boots allow for growth in between regular trims.

The boot sizes are calculated by hoof length only. However you should also measure the width because if the width exceeds the length by more than one size these boots may not be suitable for your horse.

Important Size Notes: If your horse is between sizes, go to the larger size.

Size Width0 4” - 4 1/14” (102-109mm)1 4 5/16” - 4 9/16” (110-117mm)2 4 5/8” - 4 7/8” (118-125mm)3 4 15/16” - 5 3/16” (126-133mm)4 5 1/4” - 5 1/2” (134-141mm)5 5 9/16” - 5 13/16” (142-149mm)6 5 7/8” - 6 1/8” (150-157mm)

Cost$119.95(US) per pair.

www.cavallo-inc.com/horseboots.html

Simple Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/simple-boot.html

Manufacturer’s website:www.cavallo-inc.com/horseboots.html


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Swiss Horse BootThe original Swiss Horse Boot was invented in 1979 by Hubert Rohner and over the years it has been updated and improved.

They are made of high quality plastic and are molded as one piece so the are no joints.

The boot closes using a strap and buckle at the front - the latest improvement has been to replace the metal buckle with a safer plastic buckle.

They come in a dark brown color and weigh approx 360 grams (13oz).

They are designed to be very close fitting boots and are heated prior to the first application so that they mold to the individual hoof. Subsequent applications often require the use of a rubber mallet to seat the boot on the hoof.

SizingSize Width00 3 3/8” - 4”0 4” - 4 5/16”01 4 1/2” - 4 6/8” (special version 2/8” narrower at heel)1 4 1/2” - 4 6/8”2 5” - 5 1/8”3 5 3/8” - 5 1/2”4 5 3/4” - 6”

CostRRP $63.90(US) each.

www.swisshorseboot.de/ca/html4/index.html

Swiss Horse Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/swiss-horse-boot.html

Manufacturer’s website:www.swisshorseboot.de/ca/html4/index.html


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Easyboot GloveThe Easyboot Glove is a form-fitting, seamless boot that is flexible yet tough. It provides traction and protection to the hoof without affecting mobility.

The boot material stretches over the hoof and clings to the wall, just like a glove, hence the name. There are no buckles or straps on the lower part of the boot and the flexible reinforced gaitor ensures that the boot stays in place.

The boots also come in half-sizes so that you can get the best possible fit for your horse.

SizingThese boots are very dependent on a good fit so be sure to measure accurately. They must be snug. EasyCare suggest you measure using the metric system as the the measurements will be more accurate.

Size Width Length00 96-99mm 106-109mm00.5 100-103mm 110-113mm0 104-107mm 114-117mm0.5 108-111mm 118-121mm1 112-115mm 122-125mm1.5 116-119mm 126-129mm2 120-123mm 130-133mm2.5 124-127mm 134-137mm3 128-131mm 138-141mm

CostApprox $56(US) each. www.easycareinc.com

Easyboot Glove:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-glove.html




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Horse-Mocs BootThe Horse-Mocs boot is a custom made hoof boot that is easy to slip on and off.

Each boot is handmade with a neoprene rubber top which is lined with a smooth, soft fleece fabric and covered with Velcro loop on the outside.

The sole is made with a special polymer rubber compound that is cast to the exact outline of your horse’s hoof. The top side of the sole has a neoprene cover, coated with Kevlar, which gives the hoof extra cushioning.

The boot is very sturdy, so will also withstand being used for turnout during rehabilitation, whilst still being comfortable and soft on the skin.

Hand-washable.

SizingCustom made to fit your horse.

CostRRP from $65-85(US) depending on size, each.

www.horsemocs.com/

Horse-Mocs Boot:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/horse-mocs.html

Manufacturer’s website:www.horsemocs.com/


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Easyboot Glue OnThe Easyboot Glue On consists of a lightweight shell with thin walls than allows the boot to stretch and conform to the hoof. It is designed to offer traction and protection to horses undertaking speed and long distance events.

The boots are glued onto the hoof wall using a glue such as Vettec Adhere and are designed to be disposable - being used once or twice at most. There are no buckles or straps which makes the boot resemble a second skin over the hoof. You can also trim them down to custom fit them to your horse’s hoof.

The boots require a snug fit and the foot must be dry during application. The should not be left on for more than 5-10 days depending on the environment.

SizingThese boots are very dependent on a good fit so be sure to measure accurately. They must be snug. EasyCare suggest you measure using the metric system as the the measurements will be more accurate.

Size Width Length00 96-99mm 106-109mm00.5 100-103mm 110-113mm0 104-107mm 114-117mm0.5 108-111mm 118-121mm1 112-115mm 122-125mm1.5 116-119mm 126-129mm2 120-123mm 130-133mm2.5 124-127mm 134-137mm3 128-131mm 138-141mm

CostApprox $24(US) each or $92 for a set of four.

www.easycareinc.com

Easyboot Glue On:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/easyboot-glue-on.html




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Marquis Glue OnThe Marquis Glue On was adapted from the Marquis Supergrip Boot and so provides the same gliding and stopping characteristics of the bare hoof as the Marquis’ synthestic sole was developed to closely match those characteristics.

They are very flexible yet tough and they can be used again and again.

The inside base consists of a thick honeycomb frame with a dense rubber frog cushion on the middle. The replaceable baseplace screws into it and enables the boot to take attachments such as a slider plate for reiners or studs for slippery conditions.

They will stayed well attached for approx 10 days at a time.

SizingSize Width0 3 12/16” - 4 8/16” (95-114mm)1 4 8/16” - 4 13/16” (115-122mm)2 4 14/16” - 5 3/16” (123-132mm)3 5 4/16” - 5 8/16” (133-140mm)4 5 9/16” - 5 14/16” (141-149mm)5 5 15/16” - 6 4/16” (150-158mm)

CostApprox $69.99(US) each

www.marquisboot.com

Marquis Glue On:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/marquis-glue-on.html

Manufacturer’s website:www.marquisboot.com



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Renegade Glue OnThe Renegade Glue On was originally developed as a specialized glue-on in 2001 for use in competitions. They have since been updated and patented. They are a flexible, durable and long lasting alternative to nailed on shoes. They are not intended for long term use but have stayed well attached for over five weeks at a time.

The boots come in a wide variety of colours including Sport Orange, Dragon Fire Red, Yellow Gold, Arizona Copper, Burgandy Blitz, Jade, Choco Latte and Black Knight.

SizingThese boots are very dependent on a good fit so be sure to measure accurately. They must be snug. EasyCare suggest you measure using the metric system as the measurements will be more accurate.

Size Width Length00 4 3/16” (106.5mm) 4 3/4” (120.5mm)0 4 9/16” (116mm) 5” (127mm)1 4 3/4” (121mm) 5 1/4” (134mm)2 5” (127mm) 5 1/2” (140mm)

CostApprox $24.95(US) each.

www.renegadehoofboots.com/index.html

Renegade Glue On:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/renegade-glue-on.html

Manufacturer’s website:www.renegadehoofboots.com/index.html



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Building strong relationships based on trustNatural horsemanship is achieved by working with the horse’s behavior, instincts and personality in a clear and kind manner.

There are many trainers who practice these methods including: John Lyons, Mark Rashid, Brent Graef, Linda Tellington-Jones, Monty Roberts, Tom Dorrance, Pat Parelli, Chris Irwin and Buck Brannaman. Each one of these trainers have their own style and methods.

Natural Horsemanship is available to everyone - you can learn how to effectively and kindly work with your horse using these methods. Studies of horses in the wild has given the foundation on which natural horsemanship is based.

Body language is used to communicate to the horse and by learning to listen to the horse by watching for subtle moves that indicate understanding, a two-way conversation can be achieved.

It is a truly beautiful sight to see horse and human working as one with trust and respect. That is the essence of true horsemanship.

Natural Horsemanship:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/natural-horsemanship.html

Natural Horsemanship


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Mark Rashid:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/mark-rashid.html

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Mark RashidMark Rashid is an internationally acclaimed horse trainer based in Estes Park, Colorado. He has been working with horses since he was 10 years old after meeting the “old man” (his mentor and a character who features strongly in his first few books). The old man taught Mark to work with the horse, not against it and to listen to what the horse is trying to say.

Mark continues to look to understand the horse’s point of view and aims to solve problems through communication rather than force. He does this using his training idea of “passive leadership” - based on the type of herd leader who leads by example as opposed to the alpha horse that rules through dominance. Passive leaders are dependable from one day to the next and the other herd members can respect them because they are consistent.

His clinics are held around the world and Mark works with both the horse and rider in a one-on-one session.

He also studies the martial art of aikido to help his horsemanship and brings his quiet determination to everything he does.

Mark has been on NRP’s The Horse Show and also featured in the PBS Nature series. Over the years Mark has written eight books: Considering the Horse; A Good Horse is Never a Bad Color; Horses Never Lie; Life Lessons from a Ranch Horse; Horsemanship Through Life; Big Horses, Good Dogs and Straight Fences; In the Company of Horses; and A Life with Horses all of which I highly recommend reading. To see more info and reviews on each book, visit www.amazon.com

For more information about Mark Rashid visit his website: www.markrashid.com

Books available from:www.amazon.com


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Tom Dorrance - True UnityTom Dorrance (May 11, 1910 - June 11, 2003) based his methods on three things: feel, timing and balance. He listened to the horse to try and find out what the horse was trying to tell him. Then he could work out whether the horse understood or could find what was bothering him. From this informed standpoint, he got a feel for where the horse was coming from.

Throughout his life, Tom devoted a lot of thought to how to communicate with the horse. He studied their actions and reactions so that he could find the best way to present himself so that the horses would respond to what he was asking. It was his belief that true unity and willing communication come from within.

The book True Unity was first published in 1987 and is still available from Amazon.

www.tomdorrance.com


Tom Dorrance:www.all-natural-horse-care.com/tom-dorrance.html

www.tomdorrance.com


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Brent GraefBrent Graef is dedicated to helping people find a way to provide their horses with a better deal through seeing things from the horse’s perspective.

With his gift for teaching, he helps people to understand how the horse views things and how to present things to the horse in a way that makes sense to the horse. By preparing the horse in this way it makes the right response more obvious. His aim is to get a horse to follow a feel and seek the release which creates a thinking horse who is supple and soft. He does not believe in methods that just up the pressure until the horse finds a way to escape it to find relief. He wants the horse to do the right thing because he understands what is being asked rather than just choosing the lesser of two evils.

He feels that to be a good leader you should aim to be a good, solid and caring partner rather than a dictating alpha who makes all the decisions.

Brent considers the horse to be the greatest of teachers, and one who is able to teach us so much if we take the time to learn how to listen. He teaches this approach with a genuine care and passion for both horses and people.

For more information on Brent’s philosophy and clinic schedule visit www.brentgraef.com

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Linda Tellington-Jones - Tellington TTouch TrainingLinda Tellington-Jones is the pioneer of the Tellington Method, a system of training, healing and communication. It has it’s roots in a philosophy that sees all beings as reflections of a Divine Whole. The Tellington Method was created over forty years ago to help people to relate to animals in a more compassionate way that connects through mind, body and spirit.

Linda’s revolutionary and highly effective approach has brought her worldwide recognition. The TTEAM (Tellington TTouch Equine Awareness Method) was first developed in the 1970s. It offers an approach that encourages optimal performance and health and provides solutions to physical and common behavioral problems. It includes three phases:

The Tellington TTouchLearning exercises from the groundThe Joy of Riding

She has gained international acclaim as an authority on animal behavior, training and healing, gives demonstrations throughout the world and has written many books and produced videos on the subject.

For more information visit www.lindatellingtonjones.com


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Monty RobertsAs a child, Monty Roberts witnessed horses being “broken” by traditional, violent methods and also experienced abuse from his father which led him to look for kinder ways to deal with horses.

He spent a lot of time studying how horses behave in the wild and how they respond in the herd situation.

This led him to experiment with using the horse’s natural instincts in ways that he could start to build an understanding and communicate with the horse in it’s own language - which he terms “Equus” and which earned him the title of the horse whisperer.

His Join-Up© method developed from this and he has been internationally successful in demonstrating this way of starting and re-starting (he does not use the term “breaking”) horses.

He has had an illustrious career, highlights of which include:

1986 - first public demonstration of Join-Up©1989 - Queen Elizabeth II invited Monty to Windsor Castle to demonstrate Join-up© and train her staff1996 - Published his first book The Man Who Listens to Horses1999 - His second book and documentary Shy Boy: The Horse that Came in from the Wild airs2001 - His third book Horse Sense for People is published2002 - His fourth book From My Hands to Yours is released2004 - His fifth book The Horses in My Life is published in Great Britain, Germany and Australia2005 - Monty is awarded an honorary doctorate from the University of Parma for his work in animal psychology

I highly recommend his books, some of which are available for loan at your local library.

Monty continues to tour the world to demonstrate his non-violent methods. For more information visit: www.montyroberts.com

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How to make a rope halterby Connie Nygard

Materials needed20 feet of 1/4 inch polyester rope.Matches to melt and seal the ends of rope (or to burn these instructions if you get frustrated).

NoteThese directions are for an adult horse with a small head. I use 18 feet of rope but you may need more for a bigger head. If you get confused it is best to untie all knots and start over.

Caution:• Do not leave any halter on a loose horse.

• This halter may break if a horse is tied up with it.

• This halter may cut if a horse fights it.

• Not recommended for tying a horse in a trailer.

• Not responsible for misuse of halter.

DirectionsTie simple knots at the distances shown below. Measurements are from knot to knot and do not include knot. Make the knots firm but not tight because you will be bringing the rope back around to tie into those knots. The last knot in about the middle of the rope is a knot with a loop for the tie loop of the halter. After you tie the tie loop you go back and tie into the knots you have already tied. (Editor’s note: make sure you lay out the rope in front of you exactly as shown - otherwise it’s very easy to get lost when you start to tie back into the knots!)

To tie into a knot, loosen knot and tie into knot following rope path.

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100Back to Contents

Tie into the left nose knot first. Then then right nose knot to make a double rope over the nose. (Editor’s note: remember to keep the rope laid out as shown...you’ll regret it if you don’t!)

Tie into the throat latch knot. Arrange halter as shown so it makes sense. And tie into the right ear knot.

Gather the two 33inch sections and tie a big ugly knot at the chin. Test all knots before putting halter on horse. If halter falls apart, knots are not tied correctly. Untie all knots and start over.

Slip knots to adjust size of halter. Trim tie ends the same length and melt them with a match to seal the ends. I don’t attach the two ends together.

© 1995 Connie Nygard

These instructions may be given away but not sold.



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101 Back to Contents

Now if you are feeling really brave and confident after completing that one, you can get even fancier by using the instructions below for a halter with a Fiador knot...



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102Back to Contents

Classification of the Horse

• They are a subspecies of the the family Equidae

• The correct Latin name for the horse is Equus ferus caballus.

• They are an ungulate mammal which means “hooved” animal.

• They evolved from a small multi-toed creature to the horse we know today over the last 50 million years

• Horses were first domesticated around 4500 BC

• Horses are prey animals who rely on speed to escape from predators

• They are also herd animals who rely on safety in numbers and require social interation with each other

• There are over 300 different breeds of horses

Horse Facts: Age

• You can tell the age of a horse by examining his teeth

• Domesticated horses have an average life expectancy of 25 to 30 years

• The oldest recorded horse was “Old Billy” who lived to the age of 62

• Foal is the term that describes a male or female horse that is less than one year old

• Yearling is the term that describes a male or female horse that between one and two years old

• A mare is a female horse who is four years or older

• A filly is a female horse who is under four years old

• A stallion is a male horse who is four years or older

• A colt is a male horse who is under four years old

• A gelding is a male horse who has been castrated

Size

• Horses are measured in hands - one hand being equal 4 inches (10cm) The measurement is taken from the ground to the top of the withers

• “Pony” is the term generally used to describe an animal that measures 14.2h or under

• “Horse” is the term used to describe an animal that measures over 14.2h

• Miniature horses measure in at less than 30”

Horse Facts

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Colors

• Bay - body color ranges from light reddish-brown to dark brown and the legs, tail and mane are black

• Brown - body color ranges from light reddish-brown to dark brown

• Chestnut - body color ranges from light reddish-brown to dark brown with no black points. Mane and tail are the same shade or lighter.

• Grey - can range from white to dark grey but all have black skin

• Black - coat, mane and tail are all black

• Buckskin - cream coat with black legs, mane and tail

• Dun - cream coat with black legs, mane and tail plus black stripe along spine

• Cremello - very light cream coat and most often with blue eyes

• Leopard/Appaloosa - horse has spots, mottled skin around the eyes, lips and genitalia and also has a white sclera of the eye

• Palomino - golden, yellow or tan shade with flaxen or white mane and tail

• Pinto - multi-colored horse with large patches usually either brown and white or black and white

• Roan - has white hairs evenly intermixed with body color and solid-colored head

• White - very rare and has white coat with pink skin

Horse Facts: Reproduction

• Pregnancy lasts for approx 335-340 days

• Foals are able to stand and run within a very short time after birth

• Horses are considered mature at around four years old but their skeleton doesn’t finishing developing until they are around six

Anatomy

• Horses have 205 bones in their skeleton

• Horses have a special locking mechanism in their legs which enable them to sleep standing up



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Digestion

• Horses are herbivores which means they only eat plants

• They have a small stomach so require a steady flow of food throughout the day and night

• They require approx 2 percent of their body weight in food per day

• A 1,000 pound horse require approx 10-12 gallons of water per day

Senses

• Horses have the largest eyes of any land mammal and have excellent day and night vision

• There range of vision is 350 degrees with two small blind spots, one directly in front and one directly behind them

• There ears can rotate up to 180 degrees to provide 360 degree hearing with having to move their head

Horse Facts: Movement

• Horses have four basic gaits: walk, trot, canter and gallop

• The walk is a four beat gait with three feet on the ground at any one time

• The trot is a two beat gait with diagonally opposite feet on the ground at the same time

• The canter or lope is a three beat gait with a moment of suspension where all four feet are off the ground.

• The gallop is a four beat gait and is the fastest gait for the horse



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Here in the horse care glossary you will find a list of common terms, and their meanings, used in natural horse care.

Hoof Care TermsAnterior or Dorsal - Located towards the front of the body (eg the front of the hoof).

Anterior/Posterior or A/P - Front to back.

Distal - The bottom of an anatomical structure (eg the distal edge of the coffin bone would be the bottom: furthest away from the joint with the short pastern bone).

Distal Phalanx - Also known as the third phalanx, P-3, or the coffin bone in the equine foot.

Lateral - Situated at, relating to, or on the side (eg the outside of the limb).

Medial - Situated in, relating to, or extending towards the middle (eg the inside of the limb).

Medial/Lateral or M/L - From the inside to the outside or side-to-side.

Posterior or Caudal - Located towards the back of the body (eg the back portion of the limb).

Proximal - The top of an anatomical structure (eg the proximal edge of the coffin bone would be at the top, where it joins with the short pastern bone).

Ventral - The lower surface (eg the bottom of the hoof)

Dead Sole - Flaky, chalky sole material that exfoliates easily on scraping.

Live Sole - Sole tissue that is seen as waxy in appearance surface.

Quarters - In hoofcare terminology, this refers to the sides of the hoof wall. When looking at the sole of a hoof, where the middle of the toe is at 12:00, the quarters would be roughly between the 2:00 and 4:00 and the 8:00 and 10:00 positions.

Toe Callus - Area behind the toe wall which consists of calloused sole and protects and supports the tip of the coffin bone.

Horse Care Glossary

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Commonly Used Abbreviations

ACE - Acepromazine

ACTH - Andrenocorticotropic Hormone

ACV - Apple Cider Vinegar

A/P - Anterior/Posterior

BCS - Body Condition Score

BP - Beet Pulp

CS - Colloidal Silver

DE - Diatomatous Earth

DEX Test - Dexmethasone Suppression Test

DMSO - Dimethyl Sulfoxide

ECD - Equine Cushings Disease

EPSM - Equine Polysaccharide Storage Myopathy

FF - Farriers’ Formula

FFS - Foward Foot Syndrome

GTT - Glucose Tolerance Test

HPA - Hoof Pastern Axis

IR - Insulin Resistance

Jherb - Jiaogulan

LIM - Less is More

LTLH - Long toe/Low heel

M/L - Medial/Lateral

NSC - Non Structual Carbohydrates (sugar+starch)

NFC - Non Fiber Carbohydrates

NO - Nitric Oxide

RBO - Rice Bran Oil

ROA - Recurrent Airway Obstruction

WLD - White Line Disease


Documents

All Natural Horse Care_ebook