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F O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / J U LY 2 4 , 2 0 1 7 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S
STAGESTARSWhy brands rock with Ariana Grande, Machine Gun Kelly and more top tours
OLD DOG, NEW TRICKSHow Hush Puppies plans to target young customers after 60 years in business
LO AND BEHOLDShe’s back. Singer Jennifer Lopez on her second collab with Mr. Zanotti
F O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / J U LY 2 4 , 2 0 1 7 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S
STAGESTARSWhy brands rock with Ariana Grande, Machine Gun Kelly and more top tours
OLD DOG, NEW TRICKSHow Hush Puppies plans to target young customers after 60 years in business
LO AND BEHOLDShe’s back. Singer Jennifer Lopez on her second collab with Mr. Zanotti
Shades of pale transcend the seasons, with
outré looks getting a stark finish. Prabal
Gurung’s stretch boots
define this mod movement.
ABOUTWHITE
ALL
PRESHOW ISSUE
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SPRING 2018 SHOW
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2 4 J U L Y 2 0 1 7
C O N T E N T S INSIDER
9 High Notes This year’s hottest musical acts are upping the style ante.
12 Sole Report Loafers ruled theshow fl oor at Project Sole this week.
15 Robyn’s Wings How Faryl Robyn the company is staying ahead in tough times.
16 What’s Trending Pharrell’s new Adidas shoe and Primark’s major recall.
FEATURES
18 Blanc Slate Familiar footwear silhouettes feel bright and fresh with white fi nishes.
THE LIST
27 Shoe of the Week Sergio Rossi’s studded denim mule is the ultimate resort uniform.
28 A Welcome Entry Step inside the hippest art and fashion boutique in Downtown L.A.
29 Girl Crush Liudmila designer Najeeba Hayat has embraced a super-feminine aesthetic.
30 Dog Tales How Hush Puppies is using its history to entice young shoppers.
30 Five Questions Podiatrist Joan Olo� shares her philosophy on footwear design.
31 First Look FN takes a sneak peek at the debut Tretorn kids’ collection.
32 Into the Wild Men’s designers explore safari themes with their spring ’18 loafers.
FN PICK
34 Eye Candy Rihanna hit the “Valerian” premiere in a killer pair of lace-up Manolos.
“Designing shoes requires a lot of discipline. You have to obsess over every single detail to make the perfect shoe.” Jennifer Lopez on designing her second collab with Giuseppe Zanotti
14
ON THE COVER Photographed by BRIDGES ADERHOLD
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The most read stories on FootwearNews.com last week.
T R A F F I C R E P O R T
2. CONOR MCGREGOR TELLS FLOYD MAYWEATHER ‘F**K YOU’ WITH HIS PINSTRIPE SUITUFC fi ghter Conor McGregor and boxer Floyd Mayweather kicked o� a world tour in Los Angeles to promote their fi ght on Aug. 26. McGregor opted for what appeared to be a classic pinstripe suit, but a closer look revealed the words “f**k you” were used to form the stripes.
4. THE 5 BEST SNEAKERS YOU CAN WEAR WITHOUT SOCKSScorching summer temperatures can make wearing socks a nuisance. Luckily, there are plenty of stylish sneakers that make going sockless this summer totally cool. FN rounded up styles by Adidas, Nike and more.
3. FRENCH FIRST LADY BRIGITTE MACRON HAS A STYLE TRICK THAT MAKES HER LOOK YOUNGERThe 64-year-old fi rst lady of France was in the spotlight during President Donald Trump and wife Melania’s visit. Macron showed o� her styling tricks, which included wearing sleek, youthful trends, fl attering silhouettes and statement heels.
5. UNDER ARMOUR GIVES NFL STAR CAM NEWTON HIS OWN LIFESTYLE SNEAKER Carolina Panthers quarterback Cam Newton is known for being one of the NFL’s most stylish players o� the fi eld. To celebrate his performance and fashion sense, Under Armour unveiled the C1N sneaker, which combines both.
1RIHANNA WILL BLOW
YOUR MIND IN HEAD-TO-TOE NUDE & LACE-UP
SNEAKER PUMPSRihanna ruled the nude trend in
one of her latest looks, pairing a mini
trench coat dress with nude
Fenty x Puma lace-up pumps that
provided major style
inspiration.
2. CONOR
3. FRENCH FIRST LADY BRIGITTE MACRON HAS A STYLE TRICK THAT MAKES HER LOOK
The 64-year-old fi rst lady of France was in the spotlight
Carolina Panthers quarterback
being one of the NFL’s most stylish players o� the fi eld. To celebrate his performance and fashion sense, Under Armour
wearing sleek, youthful trends, fl attering silhouettes and statement heels.
6
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Top row: Ariana Grande, Big Sean; bottom row: Bruno Mars, Machine Gun Kelly, The Weeknd 9
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HIGHNOTES
How brands and artists are teaming up to
make a lasting impact onstage and off.
By Nikara Johns
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Grande’s last stop is Hong Kong in September. 10
Ariana GrandeAriana Grande’s signature high ponytail can’t be missed as she fl oats onstage in 6-inch heels during her “Dangerous Woman” tour — which kicked o� in February in Phoenix.
With help from stylist Law Roach, Grande — a former Nickelodeon child star — stayed true to her playful style but added more sophistication to her onstage ensembles. Roach and Grande opted for thigh-high boots for the majority of the show, with custom Giuseppe Zanotti and Loriblu boots in the lineup, as well as Casadei and Alaïa options. (Shoes were modifi ed for the stage and rubberized to prevent slippage.)
“I wanted to stay true to what Ari’s silhouette is, but I wanted to make it more grown-up because she’s grown as a woman and even musically since her last tour,” Roach said.
The stylist, who also works with Zendaya and Céline Dion, said Grande’s ability to perform in sky-high heels makes her a standout.
“She’s the only person I know who does a concert in 6-inch heels. This girl doesn’t stumble,” said Roach. “After her show in Anaheim, we went to Disneyland, and she still walked around in 6-inch heels. Those feet are magical. She is my dream girl when it comes to that.”
Customization is key for concert costumes, according to Roach, who tapped designer Bryan Hearns to create three looks, as well as Michael Ngo, Sergio Hudson and O� -White. “Even if you purchase, you customize,” said Roach. “You get these garments, and you have to change the straps or add Velcro and make sure they are secure. It’s a job in itself to fi nd things and make them.”
Hearns said that teaming up with Grande has been critical for brand visibility. “They have an entire world
that they create around them — from music to videos to costumes and performance,” he said. “All the looks I created are a mix of sporty and edgy. They are fashion-forward but still have that Ariana girly feel that she is known for.”
Last month in Milan, more than 10,000 fans watched as Bruno Mars — wearing a silk Versace shirt — performed his hit song “Versace on the Floor” in front of Donatella Versace, who was in the crowd for the final European stop of Mars’ “24K Magic World Tour.” ➵ It’s clear that the marriage between the fashion and music worlds is stronger than ever. ➵ With fan bases in the millions and the ability to instantly connect with consumers, musicians and performers offer labels a unique platform to reach an audience. ➵ In addition to paying homage to Versace, Mars and his Hooligans have also been showing their athletic sides on the tour, lacing up their Nike Cortez sneakers. Marking its 45th anniversary, the style remains a cultural hit. ➵ “The shoe has moved from its early years as a track shoe into its current role as a streetwear icon,” said Andrea Corradini, senior product director of Nike Sportswear, women’s. ➵ Vans has been a pioneer in teaming with musical acts and continues to show support through the Vans Warped Tour, which is sponsored by Journeys. This summer’s lineup includes Attila, Bowling for Soup and CKY, among many others. ➵ “Musicians have varying degrees of influence that impact the brand, and the ones who are most aligned with Vans’ brand values often aid in discovery,” said April Vitkus, senior director of global brand marketing. “We hear a lot of stories of someone seeing Vans for the first time on a stage and then discovering more for themselves, forming a deeper connection with the brand. Those types of connections are lasting and go beyond a trend, and sales spike.” ➵ While Vans has been on the music scene for years, Puma has ramped up its presence with headliner acts more recently. In addition to its wildly successful partnership with Rihanna, the athletic brand has teamed up with Big Sean and The Weeknd — and is helping outfit both. ➵ “It is extremely valuable to us,” said Allison Giorgio, Puma’s senior director of North America brand and marketing. “The artists are not only extremely talented musicians and performers but show consistently that their creativity and passion can be applied to all sorts of areas in the art world. The same drive that pushes them to create music and experiences for their fans can be felt in the product collaborations they create with Puma.” ➵ Here, FN rounds up the style stars who are making their mark on summer’s biggest stages.
UP NEXTThe year continues with more fashion-focused music tours. Keep an eye out for these hit-makers and their onstage style.
Lady GagaThe singer kicks o� her concert tour with the “Joanne World Tour” on Aug. 1 in Canada.
Harry StylesThe former One Direction star embarks
on his fi rst solo tour on Sept. 19 in San Francisco.
Katy PerryThe songstress-turned-designer kicks o� her “Witness: The Tour” on Sept. 7.
I N S I D E R
Bruno Marson stage
To attendand for more information visit:
www.ubmfashion.com
AUG 14-16, 2017Las Vegas Convention Center
AUG 6-8, 2017Jacob Javits Center, NYC
Two Great Coasts.Two Great Shows.
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Samuel also produces a namesake shoe collection, available online. 12
Big SeanAfter hitting the stage for his “I Decided” tour at Radio City Music Hall in the spring, Big Sean has been making the rounds at summer festivals.
With the Summer Concert Series by “Good Morning America” under his belt and Chicago’s Lollapalooza on the horizon, the rapper is in full performance mode — and he has Puma behind him. The two fi rst teamed up in March, and Big Sean has continued to rep the athletic brand onstage. “As a brand, we embrace the individuality of every partner we work with, and look to support their personal sense of style. Big Sean has embraced Puma’s sport heritage and gravitates toward our classic silhouettes like the Puma Suede and the Puma Clyde,” said Giorgio.
Big Sean’s stylist, Ade Samuel, added that the brand’s Baskets are another go-to.
For Samuel, who’s been working with the rapper for nearly two years, mixing high and low fashion has been an important factor in making Big Sean a relatable style infl uencer. “He’s always been a trend starter,” she said. “People look up to him. He has the modelesque look, but yet he has the cool e� ect, being a guy from Detroit.”
Now that the musician is on the festival circuit, Samuel is looking for items that are loose-fi tting and light. “It’s just knowing the stage. For street style, we can add more layers and havea more fashion element,” she said.
Other favored designers include Alexander Wang, Landlord, C2H4, Fear of God, Mr. Completely, Dior and John Elliot.
The WeekndThe Weeknd’s “Starboy: Legend of the Fall” global tour has been one of the most talked-about concerts of the year, and it wraps up in December in Australia.
Abel Tesfaye has been seen perform-ing in a nearly $4,000 embroidered Saint Laurent jean jacket as well as bright orange Vlone coat.
The Canadian singer has also been able to incorporate styles from his own fashion ventures into his onstage looks, including his spring H&M collection.
Last year, Puma added the star to its lineup — and The Weeknd has recently sported his yet-to-be released Puma shoe collaboration onstage.
“The Weeknd has homed in on our newer, progressive models like the Puma Limitless and Puma Tsugi,” said Giorgio. “What [he] wears absolutely infl uences [his] fans, and we’ve seen a strong impact on our brand and business by partnering with him and Big Sean.
She added, “Both artists have a confi dent sense of self and style, and are driven to see their current and future collaborations succeed, and we truly love that about them.”
Machine Gun KellyA rock star in the making, Machine Gun Kelly pulls out all the stops when it comes to performance. With a guitar at his hip, a drooping-rose microphone stand and a torso covered in tattoos, his stage persona is bold, to the say the least, and fashion is at the forefront.
The rapper, also known as MGK, made a splash this year with the hit song “Bad Things,” and his third studio album, “Bloom.” In between touring overseas and sitting front-row at Milan Fashion Week, stylist Morgan Pinney said the singer has been taking style infl uences from where he’s traveled. “We get to be really expressive,” she said. “Something no one else would wear, he can make it work. He doesn’t care about the hype. He likes unique pieces and things that are more few and far between.”
While she added that it doesn’t really matter who the designer is, she said he’s been into Japanese designers lately as well as go-to Comme des Garçons.
For shoes, Pinney said Converse and Dr. Martens outfi tted the singer early on, and Raf Simmons boots are constant hits.
Now, Machine Gun Kelly also has Reebok Classic sneakers to choose from, as he is one of the brand’s newest faces.
“He will be repping the timeless Club C sneaker and will be wearing the sneakers throughout Europe and the U.S.,” said Todd Krinsky, global VP of Reebok Classic and Entertainment. “He’s the perfect fi t because of his energy and dynamism across all his various projects. We look forward to showing what a Reebok Classic x Machine Gun Kelly cam-paign will look like in the near future.” ❚
“He’s always been a trend starter. He has that modelesque look, but yet he has that cool effect, being a guy from Detroit.”Stylist Ade Samuel on Big Sean
I N S I D E R
It looks like men will be loafing around next spring — at least when it comes to their footwear.
Specialty retailers and vendors at last week’s Project and Mrket shows in New York are getting behind loafer styles, including casual driving mocs and dressier tassel versions.
“Everyone wants to slide into something easy,” said Kim Cohen, Northeast territory manager for New York-based Ted Baker. “People’s closets are full of sneakers, and they want something different.”
James Penn, VP of sales and marketing at Puritan of Cape Cod in Hyannis, Mass., said moccasins could boost the chain’s footwear business as dress and boat shoe sales remain flat.
However, he noted, an extra flourish is key. “They need to have details to talk about to guys on the [sales floor].”
Drivers with bolder bot-toms are in the spring lineup at Trask in Nashville, Tenn.
According to Jeff Munzel, VP of sales, the brand favors drivers with sport-inspired outsoles and sneaker influ-ences. “[They’re] the pure lane of sport casual that can be worn with jeans and a sport coat or T-shirt,” he said.
“Loafers are always a category that sells,” agreed
Giovanni Marquez, co-owner of Fashion Shop Boutique in Boynton Beach, Fla. “These looks are two shoes in one, combining fashion with comfort.”
At Zappos, the style is also a strong performer and is expected to continue to do well into spring ’18. “[They’re] king,” said Molly McGean, men’s buyer for Zappos Luxury, noting the silhouette works with the increased emphasis on casual dressing.
Although the industry is emphasizing loafers for spring, the athletic trend is anything but over. “The sneaker business is very much alive,” said McGean. “The basic white sneaker can go from suits to shorts and a button-down shirt on the weekend. It’s all-purpose.” According to her, upscale sneaker brands, including Vince, Ferragamo and Bally, are racking up strong results.
Like McGean, Michael Griffiths, VP national accounts for Johnston & Murphy, also of Nashville, said sneakers are still driving the men’s business. “[However], we’re seeing more and more loafer business happening not only in our line but on people’s feet today,” he said, noting men of all ages are now embracing the look. — Barbara Schneider-Levy
Loafers Top Buyers’ Lists at Project Sole Show in NYCThe trend is gaining steam for spring ’18.
Ted Bakerloafer
Trasksneaker moc
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Director DiscourseGiuseppe Zanotti told FN that the singer was the clear inspiration behind the fall ’17 capsule collection. “Jennifer is an icon and has an innate sense
of style. My shoes are made for strong women who want to feel fabulous, and Jennifer is the epitome of that,” he said. “She
is beautiful, feminine and sophisticated.
I love how she embodies
my aesthetic
in her own personal way.” Arriving in stores in August, the exclusive new collection
features four styles, including lace-up over-the-knee boots, embellished booties and sandals, retailing from $1,495 to $2,795. Crystal embellishments remain the core element of their fall season collab.
DoubleFeature
Jennifer Lopez
Jennifer Lopez has teamed up with Giuseppe Zanotti for a second collaboration. Here, she dishes on what’s to come for fall ’17.
By Nikara Johns
FN: What did you want to do di� erently for the second collection?JL: “This collection is a natural evolution from last season’s debut. The fall ’17 capsule embodies the same unique style but developed further. All the important projects in my life are deeply intertwined. For spring, each style was named after people who have a special place in my heart. For fall, I wanted to pay homage to some of my favorite roles from my performances in television and fi lm.”
FN: What have you learned about the shoe industry?JL: “Designing shoes requires a lot of discipline. You have to obsess
over every single detail to make the perfect shoe. I enjoyed
working with Giuseppe, who has a natural talent and a breadth of experience in fashion.”
FN: Does this collection represent your personal
style?JL: “Defi nitely. It’s the perfect mix of me and Giuseppe.”
FN: What was your reaction to the success of the fi rst collaboration?JL: “I was happy with the outcome of the line, and it was a rewarding experience for me to see such a positive reaction to the shoes.”
FN: You’ll be back performing in Vegas soon. Has the show changed since its debut? JL: “We make a few changes during each run, especially when I’m add-ing new music to the show that I’ve released. Performing in Vegas brings me so much happiness because I get to appear in front of
my fans night after night, and their energy is infectious.”
I N S I D E R14
NOW ROLLINGScene stills of Lopez’s favorite characters.
Spy
Gertiebootie
Lopez as Gertie in 2004’s “Jersey Girl,” which starred Ben A� eck.
Lopez currently stars as Harlee in the NBC series “Shades of Blue.”
Lopez as Marisa in 2002’s “Maid in Manhattan” with Ralph Fiennes.
In 2006, Lopez played Puchi in “El Cantante,” alongside Marc Anthony.
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n an age where many
independent footwear
fi rms are grappling
with major challenges,
Faryl Robin has
managed to survive — and thrive.
Faryl Morse, founder and creative
director, has focused on building the
private-label portion of her business
with key retailers, while also devel-
oping the company’s own brands.
The fi rm’s labels — Farylrobin,
Faryl by Farylrobin and Plume by
Farylrobin — are sold at Free People,
Anthropologie, Buckle, Sundance
and Versona. Styles are specifi cally
tailored for each retailer/brand.
“We have long-standing relation-
ships with our retailers. We consider
ourselves their partners,” said Morse,
who has led the company to double-
digit growth each year since 2008 —
I
The company stands out in a tough climate with strong relationships and top-notch production. By Nia Groce
How Faryl Robin Pushes Boundaries
with a compounded annual growth
rate of 29 percent since then. “We
don’t tell them what to do and what
they should buy. We sit and listen to
each other, and we don’t believe all
consumers think the same.”
Faryl Robin also has extensive
relationships with factories across
China, Portugal and Mexico. “When
our retailers have certain quality
standards, our standards as an
organization are higher,” said Morse.
“Our value is our design and our
quality. If I’m delivering the same
quality [as other brands], that’s one
less reason for them to buy from
me. And the factories, shockingly
enough, supported us in that.”
The company’s ability to be fast
and responsive also gives it an edge.
It has partnered with some retailers
to reduce the cycle time to 132 days,
from 276. “Because we work on such
a customized basis, we are able to
collapse the cycle time substantially
once they are committed to moving
ahead [with a product],” said CFO
and COO James Biolos.
Industry partners saluted the
expertise of Morse and her team.
“We are old friends now, and it’s
been a pleasure building a part-
nership with them over the past
decade,” said Kathryn Schutt, DMM
of footwear and accessories for Free
People. “Working with them allows
us to develop creatively. They like
to think outside the box ... and the
result is always crisp and original.
We manage to push boundaries and
evolve what we stand for.”
Backed by strong retail and fac-
tory relationships, Faryl Robin has
found a sweet spot between design
and price point. “If a shoe is $15, and
we make $15 shoes, it should look
like it’s $39 and it should wear like
it’s $39. If it’s $300, it should look
like it’s $399,” expounded Morse.
While Faryl Robin continues to
experience signifi cant growth, the
founder is determined to maintain
a tightknit culture. The company
holds monthly glam sessions and
operates “summer Fridays” that allow
employees to leave early. But while
culture is a priority, business growth
is always top-of-mind for Morse and
her team. “Breaking the mold all the
time — it's harder as we get bigger,”
she said. “It’s easier to rest on those
laurels, and it's really important that
we never do.”
FarylMorse
15
Kate Middleton made major style statements during her trip to Germany and Poland.
Royal FlushC E L E B R I T Y S H O E T R E N D S
Arriving in BerlinGianvito Rossi
A garden party in BerlinPrada
Touring in PolandStuart Weitzman
Arriving in BerlinGianvito Rossi
Kate Middleton made major style statements during her trip to Germany and Poland.
Stuart WeitzmanTouring in PolandStuart WeitzmanTouring in PolandStuart Weitzman
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The second edition of the Adidas Originals by Pharrell Williams Tennis Hu will release globally on July 28. This iteration of the sneaker collaboration will come in four colorways. Two multicolored styles will feature a contrasting crisp white wa� e sole, while the tan and green versions feature marble-e� ect soles reminiscent of the
late ’80s performance footwear design. All four o� erings have a socklike Primeknit upper atop an EVA wa� e-textured midsole, a branded
suede logo detail on the tongue and a contrast-accent heel tab. A built-in lacing system rounds out the shoe’s features
for a minimalist aesthetic. The Tennis Hu will retail for $130.
Anticipation BuildsFor Pharrell’s New Adidas Tennis Drop
QUOTES OF THE WEEKOverheard in the industry last week.
“You are an inspiration. You show the world that anything is possible.” Kanye West in a note with Yeezys he sent to Tyler Wesley, who is recovering from a car accident.
“Don’t let someone tell you that you can’t come to work in a skirt or say, ‘I’m not going to take you seriously because you’re too pretty.’”Sprinter Natasha Hastings at the Under Armour campaign event.
“I don’t think he should represent himself in terms of just a hairstyle. Just go clean-cut.” — Former NFL quarterback Michael Vick when asked what his advice would be to former San Francisco 49er Colin Kaepernick.
INSTAGRAMS OF THE WEEK The 5 most liked photos from @FootwearNews
TO P STO RY
W H A T ’ S T R E N D I N G
@torysport’s tennis-ball-inspired buckled sandals #sotw #FNsotw
1 Rihanna did head-to-toe pink with Manolo Blahnik lace-ups.
2 @manoloblahnikhq’s winter ’17 collection features beading.
3 Crazy-cool kicks from @jahnk0y x @puma #NYFWM.
4 Congrats to @rogerfederer on his 8th Wimbledon championship.
5
I N S I D E R
FOB_Regulars_What’s Trending
Primark Recalls Men’s Flip-FlopsPrimark has recalled a style of men’s fl ip-fl ops that contain a cancer-causing chemical called chrysene. The fl ip-fl ops — which were available in blue, khaki and black — were sold between Jan. 4 and June 2. The Dublin-based retailer urged consumers to return the items to any Primark store for a full refund, with no proof of purchase necessary. “All new orders with this factory have been suspended while we carry out a thorough investigation,” said a company spokesperson.
Fendi Sets Retail Growth in U.S. MarketFendi is opening a new location in New York’s Soho neighborhood and its fi rst units in San Francisco and Dallas. “There is such growth potential in the U.S. for the brand,” said chairman and CEO Pietro Beccari. The U.S. market, comprising 32 stores, is among the top fi ve regions for Fendi, said Beccari. Fendi’s online store targeting the region was launched in 2015 and is also contributing to the growth.
FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]
THE P OWER OF CONTENT
ISSUE September 11CLOSE DATE August 30
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White shoes are suddenly white-hot. And worn with statement dresses in searing shades, it’s indeed a fitting look for Miami’s heat. Photography: BRIDGES ADERHOLDFashion Director: MOSHA LUNDSTRÖM HALBERTFashion Editor: CHRISTIAN ALLAIRE
18
BLANC SLATE
ROBERT CLERGERIE lace-up boots. Sies Marjan dress.
.
MALONE SOULIERS x ADAM LIPPES feathered sandals. Vintage clothes.
21
FRANCES VALENTINE Chelsea boots. Christopher Kane dress.
22
MANOLO BLAHNIK stiletto boots. Raquel Allegra dress, Johanna Ortiz earrings.
MANSUR GAVRIEL leather mules. N. 21 dress, Johanna Ortiz earrings.
ALEXANDRE BIRMAN high-cut pumps. Altuzzara dress.
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LAURENCE DACADE thigh-high boots. Ellery dress, vintage jewelry and sunglasses.
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FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]
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Talk about hitting all of the trend boxes. For resort ’18, Sergio Rossi’s SR1 collection tapped the mule trend with a refined denim upper, square-toe shape and 63 silver studs that were applied by hand. Like any good pair of jeans, this refreshed style will stand the test of time in your wardrobe.
DOMINANT JEANS01/Shoeof the Week
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design — you mix everything.”
Libert added that this
strategy aligns with the
current consumer preference
for experiential shopping.
“There’s not a lot of foot
traffic in Los Angeles and it’s
always an issue for retailers
because people are driving
more than walking. So you
have to make things differ-
ent,” he said. “That’s why we
build those collections.”
Please Do Not Enter’s
Curious types will find it hard to stay away from a place named Please Do Not Enter,
and that’s exactly the kind of response the edgy L.A. luxury boutique expects. ➵ Now
in its third year, the concept store is a reflection of the city’s evolving downtown — an
emerging epicenter of the fashion, arts and design scenes. ➵ “The full name is Please
Do Not Enter Downtown Los Angeles — and that’s what you’ve been told for 50 years,
that Downtown is dangerous, it’s a ghost city and there’s nothing to do there,” said
co-founder Nicolas Libert. “There are people who still believe that.” ➵ With a background
in real estate and a passion for art, Libert relocated from France to launch the shop
with his partner, Emmanuel Renoird. ➵ The boutique began as a by-appointment-only
space that presented men’s footwear and apparel from international designers, and last
year the duo formally expanded into women’s collections as well as accessories.
special orders. “If you want
a pair, you have to wait
three months,” Libert said.
Working with overseas
labels does pose logistical
challenges. “We have a prob-
lem with shipping because
of the cost and duties,”
Libert said. “It comes from
Europe or Asia, so it’s a big
cost, and you have to have
enough quantities and make
the right selection. For that
type of retail, the prices we
have are fair. It’s not Target,
but it’s not too high-end or
too expensive.”
Without disclosing specific
financial details, he noted
that the store’s art pieces are
the bigger revenue drivers.
“But in terms of units, we
sell as much art as fashion.”
And Please Do Not Enter
has been in growth mode. In
May, the retailer debuted a
pop-up on Melrose Avenue
(featuring a cheeky message
on the exterior for its neigh-
bors: “Hey B*tch I’m From
Downtown”), and in June, a
temporary store launched at
the W in Washington, D.C.
The boutique courts
new customers — and
scores buzz — by hosting
special events, launches
and parties. Sometimes
it even collaborates on
unexpected publicity
opportunities, such as in
2015 when Libert partnered
with French artist Vincent
Lamouroux on a public
installation that turned
Silver Lake’s abandoned
Sunset Pacific Hotel all-
white — even the palm trees.
“It went viral on social
media, and that was good
because the only sign we put
on the motel was ‘Please Do
Not Enter,’” Libert recalled.
“It’s a different way to do PR
instead of buying an ad.” ❚
top-performing shoe brand
is Camper’s artsy Camper-
Lab line. Other labels
include Pete Sorensen, La
Charentaise, Adieu and
Cipher. “We like to give
visibility to young designers,
artists and people who are
working on smaller produc-
tions and exclusives that
are not known in the U.S.,”
Libert said. “That’s how we
can have added value and
bring something [unique] to
the American market.”
The owners find new
designers on the trade show
and fashion week circuits,
and Libert maintains rela-
tionships with labels he’s
followed for years. Store
exclusives include styles by
Italian label Lucio Vanotti,
and French designer Celeste
Mogado’s silk embroidered
pumps are available for
Within the shop,
avant-garde sculptural
home decor items are sold
alongside frog-skin purses,
silicone scarves and silk-
thread shoes adorned with
embroidered eyes. “We built
the store like a private
collection, like being in your
home,” Libert explained. “In
your home, you don’t have a
room dedicated to fashion, a
room dedicated to art and a
third room dedicated to
“There’s not a lot of foot traffic in
Los Angeles and it’s always an issue for retailers ... So you
have to make things different.”
NICOLAS LIBERT, CO-OWNER
As Downtown Los Angeles undergoes a renaissance, hip retailer Please Do Not Enter is at the forefront, offering a curated mix of footwear, apparel, accessories and even fine art. By Charlie Carballo
A WELCOME ENTRY02/Retail Spot-light
FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M
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A look from the Avigail Collins x Liudmila collection
Najeeba Hayat incorporates self-expression and a love of fun to present a fresh vision of femininity with her Liudmila label.By Natalie Theodosi
GIRL CRUSH03/One to Watch
Najeeba Hayat, the Kuwaiti designer behind the up-and-coming footwear label Liudmila, started her brand to bring a dose of fantasy to the footwear industry. Inspired by the Power-pu� Girls, astronomy and Charles Dickens, she has built a reputation for whimsical, escapist pieces.
“I love to read books, I love surrealism, and that’s why I started the brand. I try to bring the energy of a young child into my design process. That’s why I didn’t go to design school — I didn’t want to contaminate my ideas,” said Hayat, who studied the technical side of shoemaking at Ars Sutoria
in Milan. While the aesthetic of
this self-described “raging feminist” embraces all things girly — be it feather embellishments, pink pom-poms or oversized crystals — Hayat’s aim is to chan-nel self-expression and a sense of fun. “Any moment you have fun in your life, you should wear my shoes,” she said. “These are all the things that make me happy.”
Key Liudmila designs include feather-embellished strappy sandals, lace-up boots and a curved-heel pump, the latter inspired by Victorian shoes and produced from a single piece of fabric. The Italian-
made collection retails for $550 to $1,050.
Since Liudmila’s launch, boutiques such as Lon-don’s Browns and Paris’ Maria Lou-isa have signed on. But Hayat is concentrating on expanding in the U.S. by adding big department stores to her retail network. For this second phase, she is developing pared-down versions of signature styles and seeking more red carpet visibility.
One project that could help accomplish that goal is a collaboration with Rihan-na’s stylist, Avigail Collins,
that launched this month. “We kept the core shapes that represent my brand, simplifi ed them and then applied exaggerated materi-als like a giant tiger print or giant gingham,” Hayat said of the line. “I still plan on
making special, interesting shoes, but I’m taking into account that people might be a little more subdued than I am. So I’m fi nding nuances of my style which everyone can bring into their everyday wardrobes.”
Avigail Collins x Liudmila
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Hush Puppies is taking a walk down memory lane in spring ’18. The Rockford, Mich.-based brand (a division of Wolverine World Wide) turns 60 next year, and it is looking to reach a new generation of consumers.
Best known for its colorful suede shoes, Hush Puppies has dipped into its archives for the spring ’18 launch of Decades, a limited-edition series of men’s shoes inspired by pop culture and key trends of the times. The looks include a 1960s Mondrian-esque Bernard oxford and an ’80s pop-art version.
“The collection is a vehicle to demon-strate Hush Puppies’ relevance throughout the decades,” said president Bill Mirecki. “However, it’s not about riding the tide of a classic. It’s about celebrating iconic looks in a cheeky way.”
Decades is part of a larger Hush Puppies initiative aimed at capturing a younger generation of customers. “There’s a momentum picking up around our authenticity,” said Mirecki, pointing to the spring ’17 launch of its Icon58 series of
reimagined classics. “We brought back some of our original styles, but in a modern way.”
While the label is well-known among older customers, its updated looks are resonating with millennials. “For this generation, Hush Puppies is something new and cool,” said Kerry Hartman, VP of global product development. For spring ’18, the fi rm is banking on the Icon58 women’s Chowchow moc loafer, a refreshed classic that incorporates Hush Puppies’ signature logo on the outsole.
According to Hartman, the brand’s comfort factor is also appealing to a new audience, particularly technologies such as BioTrax, a men’s and women’s outsole that features an alignment technology designed to guide the foot forward; and the DreamOn series of women’s fl exible styles with cushioned footbeds.
“We will always stand for color, style and comfort, but in a cool, relevant way,” said Hartman. “The brand is much more fashion-relevant now for that younger demographic.”
The Decades collectioncelebrates the 1950s
through today
1How do you use your clinical expertise to market your brand?Education. I come from a teaching background at a podiatry school, so it’s something I’m comfortable with. My challenge is to educate women in a way that’s not too technical but still gets them to understand what [di� erentiates] my shoes. When I started my line, I went back to podiatry school to gather gait studies and CT scans that can show women images of what hap-pens to their feet in a shoe.
2Since you don’t come from a design back-ground, how involved are you in the look of the line?I’m smart enough to know what I don’t know, so I brought in a creative team with two talented designers and a merchandiser. I have a salesman who’s successful at brand building and has been in stores day in and day out for the past 20 years talking to retailers. We [then] pool all our resources.
3Your collec-tion comes with a luxury price tag,
in the $340-$520 range. Who is your target customer? It’s much wider than people think. I had a patient in my o� ce [accompanied] by her 17-year-old daughter, who was wearing 4 1/2-inch heels. Her mom said she wears them all the time, but now wanted her to wear my shoes. I also held a brand preview in New York and invited 20-something bloggers. I wasn’t sure how they’d respond to the line, but one said my heels felt better than her fl ats. We’re seeing women in their mid-20s on up [buying the line]. I see it as an investment, especially compared with the cost of coming into my o� ce with a foot problem.
4The luxury fashion-comfort category continues to expand. Are you worried about the competition?I’m excited to see more foot doctors get involved with the design and construction of footwear. It’s a great sign and a great trend and something we will be seeing more of in the future. My insole construction is extremely di� cult and expensive [to create], but I don’t compromise. We have internal platforms that don’t just a� ect pitch but o� oad the pressure points in the ball of the foot. My lasts are so di� erent, it’s taken me a couple of years to convince [manufacturers] we can do things this way. It’s disrupt-
ing the way they’ve been making footwear.
5As a newcomer to shoes, which designers have inspired you?We all step on the
shoulders of people who came before us. I’ve admired many of
the luxury brands, in-cluding Stuart Weitzman because of his aesthetic and the construction of his shoes. [Early on], his shoes probably fi t better than anybody’s in that genre. My shoes take what the Stuart Weitzman
woman was looking for to the next gen-eration [of comfort
customers].
JOAN OLOFFThe podiatrist discusses applying medical know-how to shape her 3-year-old comfort shoe line. By Barbara Schneider-Levy
05/ Five Questions
As Hush Puppies marks its 60th anniversary, the iconic brand remains youth-oriented with a colorful new collection of lifestyle looks. By Barbara Schneider-Levy
DOG TALES04/Up Close
30 FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M
A Joan Olo� spring ’17 pump
The fall ’17Bella slip-on
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PRICES: $39-$59MADE IN: ChinaTARGETED TO: Kids, sizes 1 (infant) to 5 (youth)
Tretorn is courting a new generation. The heritage tennis shoe label, owned by Authentic Brands Group, teamed with Synclaire Brands to launch a kids’ ensemble this fall. Arriving in stores in September, the 40-style o� ering will feature sneakers with a retro fashion sensibility. “We want to capture the essence of the brand, so our approach is to leverage the success of the men’s and women’s collections, focusing fi rst on iconic styles like the Nylite,” said Evan Cagner, Synclaire’s president and CEO. “To appeal to kids, we’ve incorporated design elements such as glitter, sequins and metallics. We want the collection to be fun and energetic.” — Erin E. Clack
TRETORN KIDS
06/First Look
31FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M
PRICES: $39-$59MADE IN: ChinaTARGETED TO: Kids, sizes 1 (infant) to 5 (youth)
Tretorn is courting a new generation. The heritage tennis shoe label, owned by Authentic Brands Group, teamed with Synclaire Brands to launch a kids’ ensemble this fall. Arriving in stores in September, the 40-style o� ering will feature sneakers with a retro fashion sensibility. “We want to capture the essence of the brand, so our approach is to leverage the success of the men’s and women’s collections, focusing fi rst on iconic styles like the Nylite,” said Evan Cagner, Synclaire’s president and CEO. “To appeal to kids, we’ve incorporated design elements such as glitter, sequins and metallics. We want the collection to be fun and energetic.” — Erin E. Clack
TRETORN KIDS
06/First Look
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Men’s loafers have embraced safari-inspired adventure this season via dusty suedes, bold prints and embellishments.
INTO THE WILD07/SpringTrend
32 FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M
Dolce & Gabbana’sspring ’18 men’s show was a mane event
Buckled shoe with Western-style motifs from Gucci
Leopard-print slip-on with textured trim from Duke & Dexter
Giuseppe Zanotti’s distressed-denim style with crystal embellishment
CB Made in Italy’s zebra-print calf hair loafer with tassels
Collapsible-back moccasin with greenery print by Louis Leeman
John Lobb’s burnt-orange suede slip-on with roping detail
MAKE IT SPLASHY Minnetonka is launching its second collab with designer Lindsay Stewart on Aug. 1. Stewart, whose custom shoe line Free Range Mama is a favorite of celebrity parents such as Chris Pratt, Jaime King and Kim Kardashian West, teamed up with the moccasin brand to create the Splash series, which includes the Gabi, an adult slip-on retailing for $70, and the kids’ Double Fringe Side Zip bootie ($55), both sporting Stewart’s color-ful artwork. A portion of the proceeds will help fund classroom projects in partnership with DonorsChoose.org.
OF REAL IMPORTMen’s brand
Coxxborba — a division of Spot D’Or, based in Guimarães, Portugal — is launching in the U.S. for spring with a series of contemporary and dress casuals that include sneakers, espadrilles and chukkas. Retailers that place orders of 120 pairs also have the option to customize looks according to silhouette, color and material. Retail prices range from $155 to $165. Delivery is slated for November to boutiques, shoe stores and department stores.
BUTTERFLY EFFECT
Gucci has created exclusive, limited-edition versions of
its Princetown mule and Jordaan
loafer for Parisian department store Printemps. The shoes, which come in a vibrant shade of emerald with intricate beading, cost around $1,260 and are launching Aug. 26. As part of the collab, Gucci will take over the store’s windows on Boulevard Haussmann, transforming them into sumptuous cinema rooms, complete with velvet armchairs and trompe l’oeil screens. And in the middle of the store’s atrium, there will be a tow-ering Gucci pop-up, which will stock the shoes as well an exclusive version of the Marmot bag.
GUYS & GALSPrada will take over the windows of Galeries Lafayette at the end of this month and set up two pop-up stores on the ground fl oor of the Paris department store, one for men and one for women. From July 31 to Aug. 20, Prada will plaster the 11 windows lining the Boulevard Haussmann with posters illustrating the brand’s vision of women, with messages such as “soft touch” and “the rise of romance.” The displays also will refl ect the label’s fall ’17 collection.P
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08/ BuzzA rendering ofPrada’s windowdisplay
Minnetonkax Free RangeMama
Coxxborbalaceup
Gucci loafers for Printemps
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Join more than 77K followers @footwearnews
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FN_HAD_INSTAGRAM_1/4.indd 2 6/26/17 12:27 PM
Chelsea Crew wants YOU
Chelsea Crew is looking for an experienced senior account executive.
Inspired by vintage styles and European runways, this 30 year old company has been amongst the fashion leaders in the US for a number of years.
Requirements:Requirements:-Experience in account management and sales.-Should have strong relationships with credible accounts, in-dividuals, chains or department stores.-Excellent communications skills.-Ability to do immediate in stock sales.-Many US territories are available at this time.-Highly efficient in social media and Microsoft Excel.-Stock and private label sales position are available
Commission based salary with company benefits.New York based applicants preferred.
Please send resume and any additional information to ATTN: MJ at [email protected]
Untitled-6 1 7/19/17 2:36 PM
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Pick
Rihanna is a triple-threat actor, designer and singer. At the “Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets” premiere, the actress wore a cotton-candy-pink Giambattista Valli couture gown with Manolo Blahnik lace-up sandals, just weeks after releasing her third collaboration, #Sostoned, with the designer. The singer debuted a pair of embellished gladiator sandals from the collection in June in the “Wild Thoughts” music video with DJ Khaled.
EyeCandy
FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2017 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 73, NO. 22. July 24, 2017. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in January, February, March, May and July, second week in November and December, third week in April and June, fourth week in August, September and December, fifth week in May and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail cus-tomer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscrip-tion price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of print issues in a subscription term, including discontinuing our print format, make substitutions and/or modify the manner in which the subscription is distributed. You have the right to cancel at any time and receive a full refund of any unused portion of your current subscription term. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDER-ATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
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