Follow the construction pictures for a general idea of how things fit together.

Receiver:Note how the little indentations in the side are handled. The border and color backdrop have to be attached before you completely enclose each wall.

Dust Cover:The dust cover hook (pg.6) is unnecessary, unless your sights are raised far enough that they cannot hold the dust cover down. It's funny because the simplest-looking component is actually the most complex one.Making the parts is kind of tedious, but the reward is that it's very sturdy.

Anyway, the actual size and shape of the dust cover seems like it'll vary slightly based on paper thickness and the way you build the parts.Thus, to make sure it always covers everything, the top and bottom faces, especially the top face, are slightly larger than necessary. To get rid of overhang, just trim the edges after everything is done.Same applies to the overall length, I've adjusted it slightly, but if it's still to long, it's fairly easy to cut a small section off the front and then stuff it back in, to preserve the face.

Metal parts general:The thing on the back, which kind of sticks out purposelessly right now, will eventually be attached to the stock. It also fulfills the purpose of preventing the dust cover from sliding back.

Another thing: the sight plate is good enough to keep the dust cover down. The dust cover hook is no longer necessary, and in fact it would be bad, because pressing the dust cover down too much might restrict the bolt's movement.Then again, if your sight is up too far or you have a problem with the bolt being too loose, it might be a good idea so I'm keeping the hook in the patterns, except with a disclaimer.

Here (construction08) you can see the bottom of the receiver, especially the mag catch. The idea is that if you pull it back, the little hook protrudes and can catch on to a protrusion on the mag to keep it in place. If you push it forward, the hook recedes back into its housing, allowing the mag to be removed.

Furniture:Assembling the handguard.

The purpose of this picture is to show how the skeletal parts in the lower HG are arranged. They are each a different size, with the smallest one toward the front and the biggest one toward the back.

The foremost one fits right into the little niche between the bent sections of the base (just like the single skeletal part that goes inside the upper HG). The middle one goes directly behind the bent sections.The rear one goes ALMOST at the very back, but not quite. Leave just a little space, about as wide as an average tab. This is because the back of the handguard has an angle to it as it gets smaller again, and you need to make room for this. Look at the sections lying near the bottom of the image. These are the bottom faces, and you attach them last, figuring out the order by looking at the tabs. Obviously the parts with the least tabs are attached last.

What about the side bumps? They are optional. You can see the markings that show where they would go, though.

Making the grip. This arrangement is not perfect, and some things might be slightly off, but it results in a good shape.The color is different to represent bakelite.For building the curved parts of the grip: place them against the center to make sure the shape fits, while gluing. You don't want to let it dry and then find out it doesn't match the part where it's supposed to go.

Remember to build the skeletal parts of the stock before adding any colored faces. The "bottom face" of the stock is kind of weird. Just fit it as well as you can. Side faces are added last.

The magazine is mostly intuitive. Just remember that the side tops are attached to the hatched parts on the sides. The back hook is meant to interface with the mag catch. The front hook is attached to the front plate and it goes into the little notch in the magwell.