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Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
NEW AMIHOPE®Amino Acid Lysine Based Functional Powderand Its Application for Pressed Foundation
Takahiro Suzuki
Cosmetics Group
Material Development & Application Labs
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
Ajinomoto Co., Inc.
In-Cosmetics 2017, April 04
AMIHOPE® LL AMIHOPE® OL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
2
AMIHOPE®
Fatty acid L-Lysine
Texture Modifier to impart smooth feel
Used for…
Foundation
Other Make-Up
Skin Care
Hair Care
Characteristics are…
Insoluble in oil and water
High adhesion property to skin
High water repellency
Soft, silky and emollient feel
20μm
R=C11 : AMIHOPE® LL : Lauroyl LysineR=C7 : AMIHOPE® OL : N-Capryloyl Lysine New!!!
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
3
Sensory Map
Moisture
Zincstearate
TiO2 ZnO
Siliconepowder
Dry
Waxy
Light
During application
Afterapplication
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0810
Organic powder
Inorganic powder
Silicone powder
AMIHOPE®
LL
Boron nitride
Talc
Mica
AMIHOPE®
OL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
4
Outline
1. AMIHOPE® LL
2. AMIHOPE® OL-New Product !!
3. Summary
Benefits in Loose Powder Foundation
Benefits in Pressed Powder Foundation
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
5
Outline
1. AMIHOPE® LL
2. AMIHOPE® OL-New Product !!
3. Summary
Benefits in Loose Powder Foundation
Benefits in Pressed Powder Foundation
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
6
Desirable Functions in Foundation
(1)smooth-ness (2)Adhesion
Property
(3)WaterRepellency
(4)Moisture Feel
1. AMIHOPE® LL1. AMIHOPE® LL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
7
(1)Smoothness
0.00
0.10
0.20
0.30
0.40
0.50
0.60
AMIHOPE®
LL
talc Mica Boron
nitride
Bismuth
oxychloride
Nylon-12 PMMA
Dyn
am
ic f
ric
tio
n c
oe
ffic
ien
t
N=3, mean
AMIHOPE®
LL
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0650
AMIHOPE® LL has excellent lubricity
1. AMIHOPE® LL1. AMIHOPE® LL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
0
20
40
60
80
100 V
isib
le
spo
ts
Po
res
Textu
re
Vis
ible
spo
ts
Po
res
Textu
re
Vis
ible
spo
ts
Po
res
Textu
re
Panelist A Panelist B Panelist C
FLA
W C
OV
ER
RA
TIO
(%
)
Control PFD-18(AMIHOPE® LL 2%)
8
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0140
AMIHOPE® LL conceals the pores and improves the skin texture
(2)Adhesion Property
.Image analysis by VISIA II
GOOD
1. AMIHOPE® LL1. AMIHOPE® LL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
108102
67
0
88
7
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
AMIHOPE
LL
Zinc
stearate
Talc Mica Boron
nitride
Bismuth
oxychloride
Co
nta
ct A
ng
le(
)
N=3, meanWater
Repellency
9
(3)Water Repellency
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0660
AMIHOPE® LL has excellent water repellency
AMIHOPE®
LL
1. AMIHOPE® LL1. AMIHOPE® LL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
0 2 4 6 8 10 12
10
(4)Moisture Feel-In Loose Powder Foundation-
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0420
Spreadability(smoothness)
Adhesion
Long lasting
Coverage
Moisture Feel
5% 10%
AMIHOPE®
20%
N=6During application
After application
Better than the Control
AMIHOPE® LL improves moisture feel
1. AMIHOPE® LL1. AMIHOPE® LL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
11
Outline
1. AMIHOPE® LL
2. AMIHOPE® OL-New Product !!
3. Summary
Benefits in Loose Powder Foundation
Benefits in Pressed Powder Foundation
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
AMIHOPE® LL imparts smoothness, good adhesion,
natural coverage, non-drying feeling not like in-
organic powder. But, does AJINOMOTO develop
the other version of AMIHOPE®, which has more
Light Feeling, and more Transparency?
12
Customer’s Opinion
Usage of AMIHOPE® LL in pressed powder
foundation has been limited, because AMIHOPE® LL
sometimes makes it hard to pick up the pressed
foundation with a puff.
NEW AMIHOPE®
AMIHOPE® OL
2. AMIHOPE® OL2. AMIHOPE® OL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
13
AMIHOPE® OL has, compared with AMIHOPE® LL,
1. Light feel with moisture feel after application
2. Natural transparency after application
3. Keep soft texture in pressed powder foundation
NEW AMIHOPE®
Characteristics are…
particle size:20~30μm hexagonal flat crystal
INCI name : N-Capryloyl Lysine
Fatty acid L-Lysine
20μm20μm
2. AMIHOPE® OL2. AMIHOPE® OL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
14
Sensory Map
Moisture
Zincstearate
TiO2 ZnO
Siliconepowder
Dry
Waxy
Light
During application
Afterapplication
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0810
Organic powder
Inorganic powder
Silicone powder
AMIHOPE®
LL
Boron nitride
Talc
Mica
AMIHOPE®
OL
2. AMIHOPE® OL2. AMIHOPE® OL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
15
TransparencyAMIHOPE® OL makes natural transparency
AMIHOPE®
LLAMIHOPE®
OL
Forearm
2. AMIHOPE® OL2. AMIHOPE® OL
Method : Added each powder to forearm in same volume
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
16
The higher concentration ofAMIHOPE® LL brings…
MoreEmolliency
MoreSmoothness
Hard toPick Up
2. AMIHOPE® OL2. AMIHOPE® OL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
17
Character of AMIHOPE® LLIn Pressed Foundation
2. AMIHOPE® OL2. AMIHOPE® OL
Press
Good Adhesion Property→ Increase the Strength of Product
AMIHOPE® OLHard to Pick Up
Sometimes…
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
18
Pressed Powder Foundation
wtcontrol
with
Amihope® OL
with
Amihope® LL
EXTENDER PIGMENTS 74.45 72.45/69.45 72.45/69.45
WHITE PIGMENTS 13.00 13.00 13.00
COLOR PIGMENTS 1.55 1.55 1.55
AMIHOPE® OL - 2.00/5.00 -
AMIHOPE® LL - - 2.00/5.00
OTHER OILS 10.98 10.98 10.98
OTHERS 0.02 0.02 0.02
TOTAL 100.00 100.00 100.00
For Sensory Evaluation
TS Formulation No. 16F-03,04
2. AMIHOPE® OL2. AMIHOPE® OL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
AMIHOPE® LL AMIHOPE®OL
AMIHOPE® LL AMIHOPE®OL
Pick up Smoothness19
Pick Up & Smoothness
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0660
AMIHOPE®
LL
AMIHOPE® OL imparts smoothness,without less of ability to pick up.
AMIHOPE®
LL
2. AMIHOPE® OL2. AMIHOPE® OL
Score
of
sensory
evalu
ation
AMIHOPE®
OL
Moderate (5%LL) Good (5%OL)
2%LL 5%LL 2%OL 5%OL
AMIHOPE®
OL
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
20
Sensory Evaluation
0
-2.0 -1.0 0.0 1.0 2.0
With 2% OL
With 2% LL
N=6
AMIHOPE® LLGood silky feelingMoisture feel after application
AMIHOPE® OLSmooth and silky feelingHigh transparency and glossy
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0780
Smoothness
Transparency
Glossy
Silky
Moisturizing
During
application
After
application
2. AMIHOPE® OL2. AMIHOPE® OL
Baseline(control)
Better than the Control
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
21
Outline
1. AMIHOPE® LL
2. AMIHOPE® OL-New Product !!
3. Summary
Benefits in Loose Powder Foundation
Benefits in Pressed Powder Foundation
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Benefits of AMIHOPE®
Difference of AMIHOPE®
22
Summary of AMIHOPE®
3. Summary3. Summary
(1)Adhesion
Property
(2)Water
Repellency
(3)Moisture
Feel
(4)Smooth-
ness
AMIHOPE®
OLGood Very High High Good
AMIHOPE®
LL
Feeling
On SkinAppearance
Ability to
pick up
AMIHOPE®
OLLightFeel
High transparencyand Glossy
Good
AMIHOPE®
LLWaxyFeel
Moderate transparencyand Matte
Moderate
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
Dosage Recommendation
23
Summary of AMIHOPE®
3. Summary3. Summary
Pressed powder
foundationLoose Foundation
AMIHOPE® OL 2~20 2~30
AMIHOPE® LL ~5 2~20
Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.
24
Fatty acid L-Lysine
AMIHOPE® LL
AMIHOPE® OL
20μm
20μm
AMIHOPE® LL
AMIHOPE® OL
AMIHOPE® BRAND3. Summary3. Summary
AMIHOPE® OL has, compared with AMIHOPE® LL,
1. Light feel with Moisture feel after application
2. Natural transparency after application
3. Keep soft texture in pressed powder foundation