Ah, so this is Sea Kayaking

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Ah, so this is

Words and PHoToGraPHY STEVE HERBERT

Paddlesport convert Steve Herbert spends two days in Menorca discovering a new way to play in the water

KAYAKING MENORCASO thIS IS SEA KAYAKING

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The two-day tour took us around roughly 30km of Menorca’s south coast, starting from Sant Tomas on day one and Son Xoriguer on day two, finishing both days in Cala Galdana. Day one’s route was definitely the most interesting to look at, but the coastal features on day two were more interesting to paddle through.

The stunning beach at Trebaluger, with its unusual river... ...which, half a mile in, transports you to an Amazonian wonderland

THE TOUR

I can’t keep with the leaders, but I’m too competitive to hang

at the back, and find a sort of comfortable middle pace

DAY ONESANT TOMAS TO CALA GALDANAI’m in awe. I’ve never seen any coast from this viewpoint before and I can’t decide whether to sit and soak up this location or paddle furiously to the next wonder.

On one side I have a vast wall of impenetrable rock, a climber’s dream, if only they could access it. On the other, the seemingly endless ocean sits with nothing but horizon and the occasional passing boat in sight.

I can’t help imagining what it must have been like for people like Columbus, discovering land after weeks at sea and the expectation of what, or who, might be there, just over the ridge...

The water is mercifully calm and crystal clear but, make no mistake, sea kayaking is very different from an afternoon paddle up the local river – my only prior experience of this newfound interest.

For one, the portage point was a the beautiful, picture-postcard beach of Sant Tomas; one of many dotted along the 180-odd kilometre Menorcan coastline. My

attempts to stay dry by deftly leaping aboard my sit-on-top as I pushed it out were immediately thwarted by a tiny wave crashing over the bow. “Well, at least I don’t need to worry about getting wet now,” I muse, and set about paddling out.

It’s about 10.30am and it’s already 25 degrees but, apart from the occasional ‘bump’ from a fellow explorer, the going is easy. I start humming Wagner’s ‘Ride of the Valkyries’ to myself as I, along with 99 other like-minded individuals on a two-day kayaking tour of the Menorcan south coast, make my way to our first discovery. I’m amazed at how something as expansive as the Med can suddenly seem so crowded as a two-man kayak ploughs into my side and we tangle paddles. They might be German, or Spanish, but we seem to assume we don’t speak each other’s language and smile politely as I push them on their way. I make a mental note to see if you can get kayaks with mirrors when I get home.

We move eagerly towards our first cave, jostling for position, the current and varying ability making progress ‘interesting’. While trying to hold my position and find some sea to stick my blade in, I find myself cursing my boat’s lack of a skeg. The loud slapping of the water against the sea wall and (not entirely unpleasant) smell of decaying vegetation are the only things of note in cave uno.

Away from the shelter of the cave our troupe spreads out. Some think it’s a race, others a leisurely ocean tour. I can’t keep with the leaders, but I’m too competitive to hang at the back, and find a sort of comfortable middle pace. The sun is beating down and, as the water evaporates, my paddle starts to feel like it’s made of sandpaper and so begins the vicious circle of dipping my mitts in the sea to wash the salt off. Silly, huh?

A few hours and a couple more caves pass when the tranquil bay at Trebaluger, arguably the most stunning beach I’ve ever seen, comes into view. This virgin cove is our picnic spot, and it breathes new life into my tired arms as I paddle in. Food, welcome as it is, pales in comparison to throwing myself into the clear blue water. To one side of the beach are some naked people (fairly common here), to the other is an unusual square patch of water, detached from the bay. It’s the start of a river and I’ve been told I absolutely must paddle up it. I wonder if it’s worth it, given my rapidly waning strength, but then again, how many chances will I get to do this in my life?

Rounding the first bend I see what all the fuss is about. Having just spent four hours tracking the coast, it’s like I’ve been transported to the Amazon. I close my eyes and go with the flow, lost in the sounds of the surrounding wildlife and gently rustling foliage. A moored, decaying row-boat is the only clue to civilisation in this lush green landscape and it’s hard to believe I’m still ‘on’ the same island. Maybe I’m not. I’ve seen Lost you know...

Back out to sea, the coastline becomes increasingly impressive. The caves become deeper, more intricate. I’ve been to caves and mines in Dorset and Cornwall as a kid but floating through these eerie caverns is more like some kind of theme park ride. We emerge from one

Son Xorigeur

Cala Galdana

SantTomas

Trebaluja

Floating through these eerie caverns is more like some kind of theme park ride

MENORCA

MAhon

cAlA gAldAnA

dAy 1 stArt

finish pointdAy 2 stArt

SO thIS IS SEA KAYAKING

Ouch. Maybe not. But I’m not giving up either. I’ve fallen in love with Menorca and my useless, skegless sit-on-top in a single day. Besides, the support boat is never that far away...

Leaving Son Xoriguer in the already blazing morning sun, we pass through a rocky channel, catching the swell at the right time to lift us up and through. I’d never really thought of rock as beautiful before, but the amazing colours of the plantlife clinging to it in the morning sun and the dazzling turquiose water... I’m more attached to my surroundings than I’ve ever been and it’s helping take my mind off of my shoulder.

We pass some furiously-waving Sunday morning ramblers on the cliff edge and some less-than-enthused fishermen on our way to our first beach stop. After a short rest we push on to explore more caves and bump awkwardly through more swelling channels, all the while the support boat whispering gently in my ear like El Diablo on my, er, shoulder. Lunch is spent in another typically stunning natural bay. What began as a tour of natural wonders has become an endurance challenge and one I must finish. I pop into the occasional cave for


Amazing what gets washed into these caves; a school of kayakers

It’s the morning rush-hour, Menorca-style

Not for the claustrophobic

The only way to view the island’s best natural ‘bridge’

Inside, the second chamber is pitch dark, cool and utterly

peaceful. Try lying in the bath with the lights off, you’ll

get the idea

to the sight of the incredible Pont de N’Ali, a square-shaped natural bridge undercut by a small tunnel. It’s a magnificent sight and finishing last no longer bothers me. I paddle slowly, watching cormorants fishing from the cliffs above and small purple jellyfish drifting by below. I could stay out here all day.

We make a mid-afternoon rest stop at Cala Mitjana, yet another beautiful beach. To the left is a cave, its mouth is a 7m-high wall which the ‘leaders’ are busy throwing themselves off. It’s not that I’m scared of heights, just that I’m terrified of falling, so I give the opportunity a miss and go for a look around the cave. At the back is a small opening, just big enough to get though. Inside the second chamber is pitch dark, cool and utterly peaceful. Try laying in the bath with the lights off, you’ll get the idea. The last leg of the journey

feels long and exhausting. By the time we arrive in Cala Galdana we’ve covered 15km and, even though I can see my hotel, nothing has ever seemed further away.

DAY TWO SON XORIGUER TO CALA GALDANAAs I sleepily try to get dressed the next morning, an excruciating pain in my left shoulder sends me reeling. I conclude I must have slept funny and jump in the car to seek out today’s portage point on the southwest tip of the island. My third trip round the local one-way system reveals my lime green t-shirted compatriots on the beach behind a local supermarket. Today has not started well.

The first few strokes bring tears to my eyes and, knowing that today will be similar to yesterday, I consider pulling out. For some inexplicable reason I hear Keanu Reeves in the film ‘The Replacements’ – “Pain goes away, glory lasts forever and chicks dig scars!” I paddle unnecessarily hard in determined defiance of my physical condition.

He was escaping the mulleted man in the blue Speedos

continued

We push on to explore more caves and bump awkwardly through swelling channels

Getting thereMy easyjet flight direct from Gatwick to Mahon cost around £300. Sounds steep, but it was a bank holiday weekend and I booked late. Travel time was about 2.5 hours.☛ www.easyjet.com

Getting aroundIf you have a full british licence there are numerous hire companies with a variety of vehicles

available. I hired a 1.4 VW Polo from Europcar for four days, costing about €120, plus €25 for petrol as you have to hand it back with a full tank. I was dreading driving on ‘the wrong side’ but driving on Menorca is a doddle and highly recommended. The whole island is serviced by

a single 48km main road and it is very well signposted. Watch your speed though, the Guardia Civil are not to be messed with.☛ www.europcar.com

Staying thereI stayed in Hotel Audax in Cala Galdana about a 30minute-drive from Mahon airport. My twin room cost €58 per night

for bed and breakfast, but this varies depending on the season. It’s got a pool, spa , two restaurants, plus plently of shops and restaurants right on the doorstep.

Alternatively, about 4km up the road from Cala Galdana, I found the peaceful woodland S’Atalia campsite. A two-person pitch in May

costs €5 per night, and a family one costs €7. It has a bar, showers, communal cooking and bbq area, pool and kids play area,but best of all, it’s only a 2km walk to the beach at Trebaluger.☛ www.artiemhotels.com☛ www.campingsatalaia.com

EatingThere seem to be endless restaurants and eateries dotted around Menorca and they cater for all tastes. From where I stayed for my trip, nothing was more than 30 minutes away. For a treat, make sure you check out Hotel Son Granot in Es Castell and, whatever else you order, finish up with their weird but oh-so-good fresh mint sorbet and a pot of their superb green tea.☛ www.songranot.com

EssEnTial infO


DOEs iT HURT?

30km of paddling a kayak in the sea when vigorous mouse-pushing is your only

regular exercise is bound to smart. My physio told me the pain in my left arm was an acute

shoulder impingement. It’s a common sporting injury involving your rotator cuff.

So, while you don’t need to be superman to take part in this weekend, going off

the deep end with no preparation is not recommended.

a look, but I really want to keep the mileage down. I’m in a bit of a zone: trance like, paddling rhythmically, concentrating on my breathing, washing the salt off my hands and paddle... “Mehehehe!”

“What the f...? Sounded like a sheep!” I must have imagined it. “Mehehehe!”

I scour the cliff to my left and see a family of mountain goats walking a precarious trail along the rock face. I park the paddle and just sit watching them for a while, fascinated at their agility and this unexpected find. The

rock bears the marks of having recently detached bits of itself into the sea and I begin to morbidly wonder how many decomposing goats are on the ocean floor below me. Must push on.

The last few kilometres back to Cala Galdana are eased by the conversation I’ve struck up with Kim, one of our spanish guides. He is trying to explain a traditional Menorcan dish I should try before I leave but doesn’t know the English word for it. We somehow figure out it’s lobster, one of several English words I’ve taught him (including crab and coasteering) since we met yesterday. He’s grateful for the lesson, and I’m grateful for the distraction.

Back at the hotel there’s champagne and plenty of back-slapping before a coach trip back to the car. I’ve always loved the ocean and, injury aside, this is a hell of a way to appreciate it. Same again next year?

II Concentració Popular Kayak Menorca 2010Now in its second year, this Menorcan guided sea kayaking event takes in around 30km of the south coast over two days. For £60 (£42 if you take your own gear), the tour includes all equipment hire and a group of the friendliest guides you could ever meet. You also get a picnic-style packed lunch on both days and champagne at the end, plus coach transfers back to your start point. There’s no real coaching involved, but if you’re struggling the guides are on hand. Speed is most definitely not of the essence. It’s all about appreciating a different side to this beautiful island. Next year’s event takes place on 21-22 May. Go to www.kayakmenorca.menorca.es for more information.


Seriously, it doesn’t get much better than this

What began as a tour of natural wonders has become an endurance challenge

After hours at sea with only the sound of the water and

fellow paddlers, the last thing you expect to hear is goats

The enthusiasm of fellow tourers is lost on an aching Steve

continued

Leaving son Xoriguer in the already blazing morning

sun, we pass through a rocky channel, catching the swell

at the right time to lift us up and through


This trip is one of the trickiest things I’ve shot. The Canon G11 is a high-spec 10 megapixel compact with enough manual options to satisfy budding amateurs and one of the most intelligent auto settings I’ve used. It’s as easy or as complicated as you want to make it, and the flip screen makes shooting impossible angles, well, possible. The fixed lens is enough for most types of photography and, while you could get a smaller, lighter camera that produces bigger pictures, the G11 is all about quality. It features an exceptionally good sensor producing high quality shots, plus an HDMI port so you can bore friends with your holiday shots on your

posh telly. One flaw is that it’s not waterproof, which is where my new favourite gadget comes in. The WP-DC34 might look like it came from Toys R Us, but it’s a phenomenal piece of kit. A fully waterproof, purpose-built housing for the G11, it offers full control of all the G11’s functions except for the flip-out screen. Because of the rubber seals, buttons require a firm push, which can be tricky with wet hands but it’s beautifully simple to operate. It even comes with a detachable diffuser for using the flash underwater.☛ www.canon.co.uk

HOw wE gOT THE sHOTs

Aquapac Small phone case £20Thoroughly secure, fully waterproof and buoyant case through which most phone functions are accessible. I could text, talk and take photos (thanks to the Lensflex window) fairly easily, although you might struggle to wiggle your joystick through the thick plastic if your phone has one. Aquapac make a variety of cases for your digital possessions and I’d recommend having one, even if you use a dry bag.☛ www.aquapac.net

Aquapac Noatak 15L dry bag £28Kayaking is a watersport and good as it may look, your Luis Vuitton won’t save your digital world from salt-water destruction. Best opt for a dry bag. The Noatak 15L is made from Ripstop nylon and has more than enough space for day tripping, and two inner compartments so you can keep wet clothes separate. It’s 100% waterproof. When sealed it doubles as a very capable buoyancy aid.☛ www.aquapac.net

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accessories not included

RTM Mambo £450My feelings towards my rental kayak swayed frequently between hate, love and indifference. This was my first time ‘in’ a sit-on-top. The lack of a skeg, whether true or not, made it feel like 20% of each forward stroke was being used to correct the previous one pushing me off course rather than to make forward progress. That said, it’s a fantastically simple, stable design. Entry, and indeed water-based re-entry, is easy and drainage holes mean

that it can’t take on water, but will get your bum wet. Slower and harder to move through the water than an enclosed ocean kayak, the trade off is in the price and those new to paddlesports certainly shouldn’t discount this over-sized surf board. On calmer water or for a quick spot of pleasure boating, this would be fine, but while it’s perfectly capable of tackling an ocean tour, we’d advise going for something a little less all-round and a bit more purpose-built.☛ www.rtmkayaks.com

Here’s a rundown of the kit Steve used on his two-day break exploring the coast of sunny Menorca

on calmer water or for a quick spot of pleasure boating, this would be fine

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Ah, so this is Sea Kayaking