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Vol 2, No 2
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DESTINATION INDEX
Argentina 1 6
Australia 52
Canada 1 8, 45
Chile 51
China 1 7, 45
Colombia 16
Curugao 42
Denmark 32, 45
England 51
Germany 1 9, 52
Greece 44
Haiti 47
Hungary 86
lndia 47
lsrael 16, 45
Italy 44
Jamaica17,47Japan 96
Kiribati 80
Latvia 44
Madagascar 47
Mexico 51, 54
Mongolia 50
Morocco 19
Namibia 48
New Zealand 51
Nigeria 38
Peru 48, 52
Portugal 18, 48
Romania 1 7
Russia 18
Senegal 16
South Africa 45, 68
South Korea 18, 45
Spain 1 7, 51
Tanzania 5lThailand 26
Turkey 1 IUganda 46
Vietnam 1 9
i0't
Chasing ShadowsA wacl{\, grr)up of'aclven-
trlr'r'r's l'rices to the nriclclle
olthe Soutlr Pacilic to\vitness il tot:rl solaleclipse that hsts ir \Yhop-
ping lbril' llrinrltcs. PLUS:
iln eclipse tri\rel guicle
Bq lefl'Grcenu:uld
Spring Timein Budapestz\ steitrtrt, rrision of'onc ol
Enlope's lu'gcst irncl tnostpopulal bathinll spot s.
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54 58 80 85Mexico'sSoul FoodRur':rl Nlt'xico has a licl'rculinalv heli trgc tltiltdates to thc Aztccs. Nrlrv
ull;tn gouLntets itleriiscovcring its clcliclcies.PLUS: five lt'sts lirr'f'oodics
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At a food festival that lronorsindigenous trad'liorrs in Miclroaca,r.Mexico, the rnusical group DuetoSierra Galvan de CharaplLn pedormsin the colorlul. entbroidered clothlngof the native Huichol peopleSEE PAGE 5].
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The New Face ofSouth AfricaSixteen yeals aliclthe encl of'ryu'theid,S<.rutl-r Af'r'i ca's bot'n-fi'cc genelation aslis,
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CoverAlong the ancientcanals of Mexico City'sXochimilco district,vendors sell botanas(snacks) and farmersgrow produce.
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All prices and addresses were verified at press time. Alar's format for telephone numbersIncludes the country code and an optional prefix to be used when calling from within thatcountry (in parentheses), followed by ihe local number. For every rssue. Afal makes a donahonto Sustainable Travel International's Gold Standard portfol o to otfset the carbon emissionsgenerated by flights taken for the magazine. This issue, we offset '1 0.51 metric tons ofcarbon emissions. Vrsit carbonoffsets.org to learn more. Please recycle th s magazine.
4 AFAR MAY JUNE 2010 afar.com
38 96
Founder's Note
Connecting Travelers and I-ocals
wHEN loE nNo I first came up with
the idea of a media company for
experiential travelers, almost everyone
usked us, "Why are you stalting a print
n.ragazine? Shouldn't you be doing this
on the Web?"
Through beautiful imagery and
compelling narratives, magazines have
the ability to inspire and transport
readers. A well-curated mafazine can
carry you away to another place and into the hearts and minds o[others. This rs
what we r,vanted to create with our magazine.
The reception to our first three issues has been incredibly gratifying. AFAR
has really struck a chord with people who want to explore and grow through
travel. We keep getting better with each new issue.
Now we're expanding to the Web, and we're excited about the possibilities.
Rather than showcase content from the magazine, the nerv AFAR.com will be a
resource where you can ask questions ar-rd gather infbnnation that willenable yru to have uniqr.re travel experiences.
How'i AFAR.com will bring together our community: people who, like you,
try to get beneath the surface ofa place and look for the distinctive in all that
they do. AFAR.com will connect you with f'ellow travelers and locals who share
your interests, and plovide tips that will take you deep inside cultures. We see
AFAR.com as the ultimate guide lor experiential travelels, one that provides
advice personalized to you.
For the site to work, we need your help. We're looking for an elite gloup
of curious, well-traveled, interesting, and influential people who are willing
to help us test the site before we loll it out to the public in September. If you
would like to throw your hat in the ling, please visit private.afar.com and
fill out a questionnaile that will help us put together a group that represents
the AFAR community. This is an opportunity to get in on the ground floor, to
influence the direction of AFAR.com, and to share your expertise with other
like-minded global citizens.
Thanks in advance fol your support in helping us continue to expand AFAR's
worldwide community of experiential travelers, and enabling all of us to better
exoerience the divelsitv and wonders of the world.
Good travels,
Greg SullivanFOTINDER & CEO
AFARFOUNDERS GREG SULLIVAN AND JOE DIAZ
EDI'TO RIALEDITOFIAL DIRECTOR GREG SULLIVAN
DESIGN DIRECTOR JANE PALECEK
EXECUTIVE EDITOR JULIA COSGROVE
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DIRECIOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY TARA GUERTIN
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ART DIRECTOR GEORGE MGCALMAN
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COPYEDITORS ELIZABETH BELL, BRONWYN XIMM
PROOFREADER PEGGYNAUTS
PHOTO INTERNS OLIVIA MULVEY STEPHANIE TRAPP
EDITORIAL INTERN HILARY LAWSON
ADVER'IISING, SALES, AND MAI{KE'I'INGVICE PRESIDENI SALES
JOE DIAZ, [email protected], 91 7-210- 1 733
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6 A FA R |\,4AY/JUNE 201 0 afar.com
Contributors
Susan 0rlean
The author ofThe
Orchid Thief' and a
staffwriter fbr the
Ncru Yorker, Susan
Or'lean ("The Softest
ofLandings," page
32) doesn't like tostudy guidebooks
before she travels.
"lt would be likereading up on a
person before you
meet them, so thatyou can't just experi-
cnce the adventure
of meeting them,"she says. "l wouldmuch rather, even at
the risk ofoccasional
discomfort, go to a
place with a littlebit less preparation
and a little more
pure openness to the
surprise. Sometimes
you might wanderaround and notalways be entirelysure where you are
and where you're
going, but I feel like
that's the point oftraveling."
Per4nders Pettersson
Swedish photo-grapher Per-Anders
Pettersson ("The New
Face ofSouth Africa,"
page 68) first came
to South Africa in
1994 to cover Nelson
Mandela's historicelection. "Then I got
really hooked," says
Per-Anders, who now
lives in Cape Town."South Africa is such
a big, complex coun-
try, with so many
different cultures-it's really differentfrom Sweden," he
says. "I especially
Iike Soweto. It's thebiggest township inSouth Africa, so it's
symbolic of all the
apartheid struggles,
but there's also a
lot ofchange there.
There's something
happening on every
corner." Per-Anders
also contributes toSmithsonian,Time,
andNewsweek.
*-a
Lygia Navarro
At the food festival
in Santiago de Anaya,
Mexico, writer Lygia
Nlvarro ("Mexico's
Soul Food," page.54)
discovered that her
favorite snacks have
six legs. "I tried three
different insects, and
they were delicious.
I really liked the mes-
quite beetles, whichare called xarnaes.
They're very crunchywith a rich, deep
smoky taste," says
Lygia, who writes for
the Christian Science
Monitor and the
Virginia Quarterlykeuiew. "You can
understand more
about the passions
of the people where
you're traveling ifyou eat the local
food. Insects have a
strange connotationfor us, but in this area
of Mexico, they'refood that families
have been eating forgenerations. Insects
are comfort lbod."
Martin Westlake
"l'm six foot six, so
I often get some sort
of reaction whenI walk throughmarkets in Asia," says
British photographer
Martin Westlake
(Resident, page 26),
who has lived in
fakarta, Indonesia,
for 2l years. "But
when I arrived in the
marketplace in the
Dusit neighborhood
of Bangkok, I wasn't
treated like I was
something odd orstrange. The people
were very friendly,"he says. "And the
food was unbe-
lievable. The crab
curry at Krua Apsorn
restaurant was one
ofthe tastiest dishes
I've eaten in Asia."
Martin's photogra-
phy has appeared
inTravel &Leisure,
National Geographic
Adt)enture, and Condd
Nast Traueler.
Brian Paumier &
Joaquin Trujillo
Photoglaphy team
Brian Paumicr'(left)and foaquin Truiillo(right) traveled to
the Mexican state
of'Michoacin for"Mexico's Soul Food"
(cover and page 54)."Brian and I come
from really stlonghouseholds where
you respect, honor,
and celebratc your
family," says Ioaquin."When we went toMexico it was like
going back home--the traditions, the
food, the families
eating together on
Sundays. It was going
bnck to when things
were a little more
simple," he says.
Brian adds, "When
you get an assign-
ment like this, you
gotta slap yourself inthe face when you
wake up in the moln-ing. It's like,'WowI'm getting pnid to do
this?"'foaquin and
Brian have contrib-uted photography tothe Neru YorkTimes
Magazine, GQ, and
Food &wine.
Jeff Greenwald
Long befole feffGreenwald ("Chas-
ing Shadows," page
8O) traveled to the
Republic ol'Kiribrrtito see the total solar
eclipse last fuly, the
moon captivated
his imagination. "As
a travel writer, I'mfascinated by other
worlds," says fell, the
author of Shoppirlg
[br Buddhas and The
Size ot'the World.
"The thought that
the moon is another
world that's a palt-ner to ours, but s0
completely differentin every way-it'stantalizing. It's like
that one islirnd yruknowyou'll never
get to, but you're
iust thrilled by its
mythic possibilities.
Then to see the moon
eclipsing the sun and
taking center stage in
the cosmic ballet that
surrounds the planet
Earth-it's an incred-
ibly awe-inspiring
and moving sight."
i\
I AFAR MAY/JUNE 20'10 atar.com
2010, page 35). We kicked offour trip with thistour and had an amazing time. It's a great way toget acquainted with the city and see street art.
-CHRISTINE VYS'I'RCIL,
VIA FACEBOOK
Pretty or Ugly Americanin Ethiopia?I believe you, Andrew McCarthy,
are the next Christiane
Amanpour! Excellent stuff! lspin
the Globe, Mtlch, April 2O10, Page llo).
MARISOL ESPINOSA
HOUSTON,'IEXAS
Why is it so easy fol people to
deduce that the guald is at fault
when Andrew McCarthy is the
one who trespassed? No tichet =
No entry. I guess "Mr. Amlnpoul"'got inspired by the moment and
decided to be an actor again-drlmatize the whole thing at
the expense of a man who was
only doing his iob. Ethiopia is a
beautiful country. Do not let the
bruised ego of one man dictate
your ideas ofwhat a country
is and what it represents-nomatter how pretty McCarthY was
inPret4l inPink.
-ANONYMOUS,VIA AFAR,S BLOG
Feeling Hot, Hot, HotA pity that you chose to limityour article about hot springs
around the world (stay, December,'
January 20Io, page 52) to places
with lodgings. The BIue Lagoon
in Iceland (pictured) is worth the
trip even without a hotel clinging
10 AFAR MAY/JUNE 2010 alar.com
Off the Wall inBuenos AiresThanks, Afar,foryour article onGraffitimundotours in BuenosAires (Good Trips,December/|anuary
to it like a barnacle. Shame on yon
for failing to mention one of the
best (ifnot, in fact, the best) hot
springs in the world.
-LINDA C. KOBER
NORTHAMPTON,
PENNSYLVANIA
In the Company of MenWhile I enjoyed reading about
Japan's natural hot springs 1stay,
December'/'lanuary 2O10, page 52),
there is no mention of what the
male bather is to do. Please don't
folget approximately half ofyour readers.
-ERIC DEBRUNO
BALTIMORE, MARYLAND
Editor's Note: writet' Lisa Kataljama
saAS men in an onsen (comntunal hot
spring bath) couer up with a small
toutel on the waA to the tub and then
go in nal<ed. But one ofher friends
says sintply: ht an onsen, llrcre nre no
priuate parts.
A Life Less OrdinaryYou ask about the effects of travel
(Founder's Notc, Decemberr'Ianuary
2010, pagc 6). When I was young,
the most powerful effect of being
abroad was learning that I couid
live by rules of my own choosing.
But now, as I am getting older, I
{'eel its small costs.
It sounds romantic to say you
are a global citizen, but in reality
it means you really only fit in witha tiny percentage of the world'spopulation. By spending so much
time outside the United States,
I have turned myself into a rare
creature who no longer belongs
anylvherc and whose dear {riends
are scattered across the globe.
By embracing the world, I l.rave
isolated myself.
And what about children bolninto global citizenshipi Son.re
days I wish my children had the
comfort and security of a nolmal
American parent who could
confidently point out light and
wrong. A four-year-old wants a
world of black and white, but
mine is all glays-lovely, subtle,
shimmering grays.
Since I have found gleat
comfort in my gray world, in the
long run I think that it will be
good for rny childlen to take a
harder, more philosophical path,
but they might not agree.
-PAMELA DORRELL
POR'I'OLA VALLEY,
CALIFORNIA
Editor's Note: For ntore on the ups
and dotuns of'global citizenship, rearl
our Nomad intervieut utith theater
dircctor Benjamir Mosse (page 36),
who has staged plays fi'om Shanghai
to Stockholm.
Travel Dispatches Iror Afar's Readers
INDoNEStA Stayed in a primitive bungalow in 100+ NEPAL Felled by appendicitis while hiking the
degree weather with no A/C and limited plumbing just Annapurna circuit and subsequently airlifted off the
to spend 20 seconds watching mandarin fish mate mountainside at 12,000 feet
LEBANoN Drank beers and talked about the 2006 tNDoNEstA Chatted in ltalian, English, and a sprtnkling
lsrael-Hezbollah war with a hip 26-year-old bartender of Bahasa, on a dive boat
FRANCE Discovered that you're golden if you
French translation for, "l'm sorry. I don't speakdo you speak English?"
wEsT AFRIcA Learned to love my solid legs
learn the THAILAND Learned to cook Thai food on a local
French, woman's patio in Chiang Mai
cERMANY Downed several rounds of schnapps with
a couple of 60-year-old Austrians
FtJt Attended a kava ceremony with my husband'sAustrian aunt on Beqa lsland
TTALY Invited into a family's restaurant cellar to see theirhomemade wine, salami, and preserves
MExlco Made lifelong friends in a sleepy fishing village
on the Yucatdn Peninsula
z2
E
AFRtcA Hitchhiked through sub-Saharan Africa and
talked with locals who were ecstatic about Obama
TURKEY Spent five happy days getting lost in lstanbul
FRANGE Exolained to a man from La Mure thatAmericans don't all walk around with a Coca-Cola bottlein their hands
CONTACT US: Afar, 40 Gold St., San Francisco, CA 94133, or mail@afarcom. Visit alar.com/blog, where Afar's editors, writers, and
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