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AFAR Magazine May-June 10

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Page 1: AFAR Magazine May-June 10

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Page 2: AFAR Magazine May-June 10

DESTINATION INDEX

Argentina 1 6

Australia 52

Canada 1 8, 45

Chile 51

China 1 7, 45

Colombia 16

Curugao 42

Denmark 32, 45

England 51

Germany 1 9, 52

Greece 44

Haiti 47

Hungary 86

lndia 47

lsrael 16, 45

Italy 44

Jamaica17,47Japan 96

Kiribati 80

Latvia 44

Madagascar 47

Mexico 51, 54

Mongolia 50

Morocco 19

Namibia 48

New Zealand 51

Nigeria 38

Peru 48, 52

Portugal 18, 48

Romania 1 7

Russia 18

Senegal 16

South Africa 45, 68

South Korea 18, 45

Spain 1 7, 51

Tanzania 5lThailand 26

Turkey 1 IUganda 46

Vietnam 1 9

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Chasing ShadowsA wacl{\, grr)up of'aclven-

trlr'r'r's l'rices to the nriclclle

olthe Soutlr Pacilic to\vitness il tot:rl solaleclipse that hsts ir \Yhop-

ping lbril' llrinrltcs. PLUS:

iln eclipse tri\rel guicle

Bq lefl'Grcenu:uld

Spring Timein Budapestz\ steitrtrt, rrision of'onc ol

Enlope's lu'gcst irncl tnostpopulal bathinll spot s.

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54 58 80 85Mexico'sSoul FoodRur':rl Nlt'xico has a licl'rculinalv heli trgc tltiltdates to thc Aztccs. Nrlrv

ull;tn gouLntets itleriiscovcring its clcliclcies.PLUS: five lt'sts lirr'f'oodics

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At a food festival that lronorsindigenous trad'liorrs in Miclroaca,r.Mexico, the rnusical group DuetoSierra Galvan de CharaplLn pedormsin the colorlul. entbroidered clothlngof the native Huichol peopleSEE PAGE 5].

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CoverAlong the ancientcanals of Mexico City'sXochimilco district,vendors sell botanas(snacks) and farmersgrow produce.

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All prices and addresses were verified at press time. Alar's format for telephone numbersIncludes the country code and an optional prefix to be used when calling from within thatcountry (in parentheses), followed by ihe local number. For every rssue. Afal makes a donahonto Sustainable Travel International's Gold Standard portfol o to otfset the carbon emissionsgenerated by flights taken for the magazine. This issue, we offset '1 0.51 metric tons ofcarbon emissions. Vrsit carbonoffsets.org to learn more. Please recycle th s magazine.

4 AFAR MAY JUNE 2010 afar.com

38 96

Page 4: AFAR Magazine May-June 10

Founder's Note

Connecting Travelers and I-ocals

wHEN loE nNo I first came up with

the idea of a media company for

experiential travelers, almost everyone

usked us, "Why are you stalting a print

n.ragazine? Shouldn't you be doing this

on the Web?"

Through beautiful imagery and

compelling narratives, magazines have

the ability to inspire and transport

readers. A well-curated mafazine can

carry you away to another place and into the hearts and minds o[others. This rs

what we r,vanted to create with our magazine.

The reception to our first three issues has been incredibly gratifying. AFAR

has really struck a chord with people who want to explore and grow through

travel. We keep getting better with each new issue.

Now we're expanding to the Web, and we're excited about the possibilities.

Rather than showcase content from the magazine, the nerv AFAR.com will be a

resource where you can ask questions ar-rd gather infbnnation that willenable yru to have uniqr.re travel experiences.

How'i AFAR.com will bring together our community: people who, like you,

try to get beneath the surface ofa place and look for the distinctive in all that

they do. AFAR.com will connect you with f'ellow travelers and locals who share

your interests, and plovide tips that will take you deep inside cultures. We see

AFAR.com as the ultimate guide lor experiential travelels, one that provides

advice personalized to you.

For the site to work, we need your help. We're looking for an elite gloup

of curious, well-traveled, interesting, and influential people who are willing

to help us test the site before we loll it out to the public in September. If you

would like to throw your hat in the ling, please visit private.afar.com and

fill out a questionnaile that will help us put together a group that represents

the AFAR community. This is an opportunity to get in on the ground floor, to

influence the direction of AFAR.com, and to share your expertise with other

like-minded global citizens.

Thanks in advance fol your support in helping us continue to expand AFAR's

worldwide community of experiential travelers, and enabling all of us to better

exoerience the divelsitv and wonders of the world.

Good travels,

Greg SullivanFOTINDER & CEO

AFARFOUNDERS GREG SULLIVAN AND JOE DIAZ

EDI'TO RIALEDITOFIAL DIRECTOR GREG SULLIVAN

DESIGN DIRECTOR JANE PALECEK

EXECUTIVE EDITOR JULIA COSGROVE

MANAGING EDITOR JEREMY SAUM

DIRECIOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY TARA GUERTIN

SENIOR EDITOR DERK RICHARDSON

SEN]OR EDITOR NICOLE SOLIS

ART DIRECTOR GEORGE MGCALMAN

ASSOCiAIE EDITOR JENNICA PETERSON

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT APRIL KILCREASE

COPYEDITORS ELIZABETH BELL, BRONWYN XIMM

PROOFREADER PEGGYNAUTS

PHOTO INTERNS OLIVIA MULVEY STEPHANIE TRAPP

EDITORIAL INTERN HILARY LAWSON

ADVER'IISING, SALES, AND MAI{KE'I'INGVICE PRESIDENI SALES

JOE DIAZ, [email protected], 91 7-210- 1 733

MARKETING AND PRODUCT DEVELOPI\,4ENI ADVISOR

DAWN DREW

PUBLISHING ADVISOR

ELLEN ASMODEO-GIGLIO

SALES MANAGER, SOUTHEAST, CARIBBEAN,

AND CENTRAL AIVERICA

CHRIS CUOMO, [email protected], 786 425 9740,

AFAR EXCHANGE SALES IVANAGER

KATHERINE KNEIER, [email protected], 91 7 210 1 738

I\,4ARKETING COORDINATOB SHOSHANA BENNETT

A t J DI E NCE M ARKE'I'INC;AUDIENCE I\,4ARKETING AND

PLANNING DIRECTOR LAURA SIMKINS

FULFILLN,4ENT N,4ANAGER ROBYN PATTY

NEWSSTAND CONSULTANT GEORGE CLARK

PRODI,ICl'ION AND OPERA'I'IONSIV]ANUFACTURING DIRECTOR FRAN FOX

PRODUCTION I\,4ANAGER JODIE WENNBERG

AD OPERATIONS COORDINATOR MATTHEW HAYES

SENIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR LEAH KING

PRODUCTION COORDINATOR TAMMY VINSON

ACCOUNTING N,4ANAGER MATTHEW FENSTER

HUIVAN RESOURCES ERIN MULVEY RUSSELL

IT N,4ANAGER GREG DOERING

RECEPTIONIST KAREN ZAKRISOIT

AFAR MEDIA LLCCEO GREG SULLIVAN

PRESIDENT DAN ORUM

VICE PRESIDENT JOE DIAZ

CHIEF TECHNICAL OFFICER DEREK BUTCHER

PRODUCT IV1ANAGER AND SENIOR DES GNER ERIC HILL

SENIOR SOFTWARE ENGINEERS JUSTIN IP,

MATTHEW WHIfiAKER

FOUNDING EDITOR SUSAN WEST

FOUNDING PUBLISHER JOHN SHEEHY

EDITORIAI, AND BTISINESS OFFICES40 GOLD STREET. SAN FRANCISCO, CA 941 33

[email protected]

SALES OFFICE8 WEST 36TH STREET. FIFTH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 1 OO1 8

stTBSCRIP',ilON INQUtRIESalaIcom/seryice or 8BB'403-9001 (loll free)

6 A FA R |\,4AY/JUNE 201 0 afar.com

Page 5: AFAR Magazine May-June 10

Contributors

Susan 0rlean

The author ofThe

Orchid Thief' and a

staffwriter fbr the

Ncru Yorker, Susan

Or'lean ("The Softest

ofLandings," page

32) doesn't like tostudy guidebooks

before she travels.

"lt would be likereading up on a

person before you

meet them, so thatyou can't just experi-

cnce the adventure

of meeting them,"she says. "l wouldmuch rather, even at

the risk ofoccasional

discomfort, go to a

place with a littlebit less preparation

and a little more

pure openness to the

surprise. Sometimes

you might wanderaround and notalways be entirelysure where you are

and where you're

going, but I feel like

that's the point oftraveling."

Per4nders Pettersson

Swedish photo-grapher Per-Anders

Pettersson ("The New

Face ofSouth Africa,"

page 68) first came

to South Africa in

1994 to cover Nelson

Mandela's historicelection. "Then I got

really hooked," says

Per-Anders, who now

lives in Cape Town."South Africa is such

a big, complex coun-

try, with so many

different cultures-it's really differentfrom Sweden," he

says. "I especially

Iike Soweto. It's thebiggest township inSouth Africa, so it's

symbolic of all the

apartheid struggles,

but there's also a

lot ofchange there.

There's something

happening on every

corner." Per-Anders

also contributes toSmithsonian,Time,

andNewsweek.

*-a

Lygia Navarro

At the food festival

in Santiago de Anaya,

Mexico, writer Lygia

Nlvarro ("Mexico's

Soul Food," page.54)

discovered that her

favorite snacks have

six legs. "I tried three

different insects, and

they were delicious.

I really liked the mes-

quite beetles, whichare called xarnaes.

They're very crunchywith a rich, deep

smoky taste," says

Lygia, who writes for

the Christian Science

Monitor and the

Virginia Quarterlykeuiew. "You can

understand more

about the passions

of the people where

you're traveling ifyou eat the local

food. Insects have a

strange connotationfor us, but in this area

of Mexico, they'refood that families

have been eating forgenerations. Insects

are comfort lbod."

Martin Westlake

"l'm six foot six, so

I often get some sort

of reaction whenI walk throughmarkets in Asia," says

British photographer

Martin Westlake

(Resident, page 26),

who has lived in

fakarta, Indonesia,

for 2l years. "But

when I arrived in the

marketplace in the

Dusit neighborhood

of Bangkok, I wasn't

treated like I was

something odd orstrange. The people

were very friendly,"he says. "And the

food was unbe-

lievable. The crab

curry at Krua Apsorn

restaurant was one

ofthe tastiest dishes

I've eaten in Asia."

Martin's photogra-

phy has appeared

inTravel &Leisure,

National Geographic

Adt)enture, and Condd

Nast Traueler.

Brian Paumier &

Joaquin Trujillo

Photoglaphy team

Brian Paumicr'(left)and foaquin Truiillo(right) traveled to

the Mexican state

of'Michoacin for"Mexico's Soul Food"

(cover and page 54)."Brian and I come

from really stlonghouseholds where

you respect, honor,

and celebratc your

family," says Ioaquin."When we went toMexico it was like

going back home--the traditions, the

food, the families

eating together on

Sundays. It was going

bnck to when things

were a little more

simple," he says.

Brian adds, "When

you get an assign-

ment like this, you

gotta slap yourself inthe face when you

wake up in the moln-ing. It's like,'WowI'm getting pnid to do

this?"'foaquin and

Brian have contrib-uted photography tothe Neru YorkTimes

Magazine, GQ, and

Food &wine.

Jeff Greenwald

Long befole feffGreenwald ("Chas-

ing Shadows," page

8O) traveled to the

Republic ol'Kiribrrtito see the total solar

eclipse last fuly, the

moon captivated

his imagination. "As

a travel writer, I'mfascinated by other

worlds," says fell, the

author of Shoppirlg

[br Buddhas and The

Size ot'the World.

"The thought that

the moon is another

world that's a palt-ner to ours, but s0

completely differentin every way-it'stantalizing. It's like

that one islirnd yruknowyou'll never

get to, but you're

iust thrilled by its

mythic possibilities.

Then to see the moon

eclipsing the sun and

taking center stage in

the cosmic ballet that

surrounds the planet

Earth-it's an incred-

ibly awe-inspiring

and moving sight."

i\

I AFAR MAY/JUNE 20'10 atar.com

Page 6: AFAR Magazine May-June 10

2010, page 35). We kicked offour trip with thistour and had an amazing time. It's a great way toget acquainted with the city and see street art.

-CHRISTINE VYS'I'RCIL,

VIA FACEBOOK

Mail

Pretty or Ugly Americanin Ethiopia?I believe you, Andrew McCarthy,

are the next Christiane

Amanpour! Excellent stuff! lspin

the Globe, Mtlch, April 2O10, Page llo).

MARISOL ESPINOSA

HOUSTON,'IEXAS

Why is it so easy fol people to

deduce that the guald is at fault

when Andrew McCarthy is the

one who trespassed? No tichet =

No entry. I guess "Mr. Amlnpoul"'got inspired by the moment and

decided to be an actor again-drlmatize the whole thing at

the expense of a man who was

only doing his iob. Ethiopia is a

beautiful country. Do not let the

bruised ego of one man dictate

your ideas ofwhat a country

is and what it represents-nomatter how pretty McCarthY was

inPret4l inPink.

-ANONYMOUS,VIA AFAR,S BLOG

Feeling Hot, Hot, HotA pity that you chose to limityour article about hot springs

around the world (stay, December,'

January 20Io, page 52) to places

with lodgings. The BIue Lagoon

in Iceland (pictured) is worth the

trip even without a hotel clinging

10 AFAR MAY/JUNE 2010 alar.com

Off the Wall inBuenos AiresThanks, Afar,foryour article onGraffitimundotours in BuenosAires (Good Trips,December/|anuary

to it like a barnacle. Shame on yon

for failing to mention one of the

best (ifnot, in fact, the best) hot

springs in the world.

-LINDA C. KOBER

NORTHAMPTON,

PENNSYLVANIA

In the Company of MenWhile I enjoyed reading about

Japan's natural hot springs 1stay,

December'/'lanuary 2O10, page 52),

there is no mention of what the

male bather is to do. Please don't

folget approximately half ofyour readers.

-ERIC DEBRUNO

BALTIMORE, MARYLAND

Editor's Note: writet' Lisa Kataljama

saAS men in an onsen (comntunal hot

spring bath) couer up with a small

toutel on the waA to the tub and then

go in nal<ed. But one ofher friends

says sintply: ht an onsen, llrcre nre no

priuate parts.

A Life Less OrdinaryYou ask about the effects of travel

(Founder's Notc, Decemberr'Ianuary

2010, pagc 6). When I was young,

the most powerful effect of being

abroad was learning that I couid

live by rules of my own choosing.

But now, as I am getting older, I

{'eel its small costs.

It sounds romantic to say you

are a global citizen, but in reality

it means you really only fit in witha tiny percentage of the world'spopulation. By spending so much

time outside the United States,

I have turned myself into a rare

creature who no longer belongs

anylvherc and whose dear {riends

are scattered across the globe.

By embracing the world, I l.rave

isolated myself.

And what about children bolninto global citizenshipi Son.re

days I wish my children had the

comfort and security of a nolmal

American parent who could

confidently point out light and

wrong. A four-year-old wants a

world of black and white, but

mine is all glays-lovely, subtle,

shimmering grays.

Since I have found gleat

comfort in my gray world, in the

long run I think that it will be

good for rny childlen to take a

harder, more philosophical path,

but they might not agree.

-PAMELA DORRELL

POR'I'OLA VALLEY,

CALIFORNIA

Editor's Note: For ntore on the ups

and dotuns of'global citizenship, rearl

our Nomad intervieut utith theater

dircctor Benjamir Mosse (page 36),

who has staged plays fi'om Shanghai

to Stockholm.

Travel Dispatches Iror Afar's Readers

INDoNEStA Stayed in a primitive bungalow in 100+ NEPAL Felled by appendicitis while hiking the

degree weather with no A/C and limited plumbing just Annapurna circuit and subsequently airlifted off the

to spend 20 seconds watching mandarin fish mate mountainside at 12,000 feet

LEBANoN Drank beers and talked about the 2006 tNDoNEstA Chatted in ltalian, English, and a sprtnkling

lsrael-Hezbollah war with a hip 26-year-old bartender of Bahasa, on a dive boat

FRANCE Discovered that you're golden if you

French translation for, "l'm sorry. I don't speakdo you speak English?"

wEsT AFRIcA Learned to love my solid legs

learn the THAILAND Learned to cook Thai food on a local

French, woman's patio in Chiang Mai

cERMANY Downed several rounds of schnapps with

a couple of 60-year-old Austrians

FtJt Attended a kava ceremony with my husband'sAustrian aunt on Beqa lsland

TTALY Invited into a family's restaurant cellar to see theirhomemade wine, salami, and preserves

MExlco Made lifelong friends in a sleepy fishing village

on the Yucatdn Peninsula

z2

E

AFRtcA Hitchhiked through sub-Saharan Africa and

talked with locals who were ecstatic about Obama

TURKEY Spent five happy days getting lost in lstanbul

FRANGE Exolained to a man from La Mure thatAmericans don't all walk around with a Coca-Cola bottlein their hands

CONTACT US: Afar, 40 Gold St., San Francisco, CA 94133, or mail@afarcom. Visit alar.com/blog, where Afar's editors, writers, and

photographers share stories, photos, videos, and more. Follow Afar on twitter.com/afarmedia and become a lan at tacebook.com/afarmedia.

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