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Fashion. Beauty. Business. MARCH 8, 2017
Houston, We Have A Fashion Show
And what a show it was! Karl Lagerfeld is Chanel’s “Rocket Man,” dreaming up an awesome launchpad for his fall
collection, full of sparkly tweed suits, shimmery leathers and glittery boots. For more on the show, and
the last day of Paris Fashion Week, see pages 5 to 10.
CollectionsFall
2017
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4 march 8, 2017
● The Urban Outfitters ceo said U.S. retailers overexpanded and are now paying the price.
By Evan Clark
Richard Hayne, chief executive officer of Urban Outfitters Inc., has a new and very unfavorable comparison for retail today — the housing market of 2008.
“Our industry, not unlike the housing industry, saw too much square footage capacity added in the Nineties and early 2000s,” Hayne told Wall Street analysts Tuesday, after his company reported sag-ging profits as more sales shift online.
“Thousands of doors opened…and created a bubble and like housing, that bubble has now burst,” he said. “We are seeing the results, doors shuttering and rents retreating. This trend will continue for the foreseeable future and may even accelerate.”
J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Macy’s Inc. and Sears Holdings Corp. are all closing stores, while a number of well-known chains have faded into insolvency recently, including The Limited, BCBG and The Wet Seal Inc.
“The U.S. market is oversaturated with retail space and far too much of that space is occupied by stores selling apparel,” said Hayne, noting America has six times the retail space per capita of either Europe or Japan.
It’s a dynamic that is driving down prices in the market as stores hit the promotional button to drive sales and attract customers.
To navigate the choppy waters, the ceo said Urban would put its money behind its best opportunities, diversify and con-serve its liquidity.
“Our highest priority is where we’ve had the most recent success, digital,” Hayne said. “Last year we made many improvements to our capabilities in this
channel. We developed a single platform for all brands. This enables [the company] to be more scalable and efficient in devel-oping and growing on front-end enhance-ments across all brands, both on mobile and on web sites. We have improved our functionality around check-out, pay-ment, search, inventory visibility, in-store pickup, ship-to-store, mobile capabilities and speed on all web platforms.”
Hayne was careful to say the company — parent to its namesake brand as well as Anthropologie and Free People — was not abandoning retail, but is viewing stores as an equal partner with the web.
The reading of the landscape is made all the more stark by the fact that Urban is one of the few retailers that is still grow-ing, with plans to open 15 doors in North America this year, down from 26 stores last year and 29 the year before.
And square-footage growth might even-tually get easier as the bubble deflates.
“It makes little sense to enter into many new long-term leases at this time, but all signs indicate that a similar lease will be less expensive in the near future,” Hayne said.
Last year, Urban’s earnings slid 2.8 per-cent to $218.1 million, or $1.86 a diluted share, on a 2.9 percent drop in sales, to $3.55 billion.
● Matchesfashion.com and Vera Bradley are new sponsors; Microsoft returns as tech partner.
By viCki M. Young
New York Fashion Tech Lab is gear-ing up for its fourth annual accelerator program.
The 12-week program begins today and ends June 14, when the program holds its Demo Day at Time Inc. The Lab is “in residence” at Spring Place.
The accelerator — a collaborative effort between major fashion retailers and serial technology entrepreneurs — was launched in 2013 to promote innovation in the fashion industry, and focuses on firms that intersect fashion and technol-ogy. There’s some venture capital financ-ing from Springboard Enterprises and the Partnership Fund for New York City, but most funding is from within the industry. That also allows industry sponsors to learn about new tech ideas and work as mentors to further develop the ideas that they are most interested in.
Returning to the program are founding members J. Crew and Macy’s, as well as second and third year partners Blooming-dale’s, Kohl’s and Time Inc. Newcomers this year include luxury fashion e-tailer Matchesfashion.com and Vera Bradley. Microsoft Corp. returns for its second year as a tech partner, while innovation firm Flex joins for the first time.
Julie Larson-Green, chief experience officer at Microsoft, said her firm has
been supporting NYFTL through its start-up evangelism program since the Lab’s inception. The company elected to become a tech sponsor last year and has worked with the Lab’s participants and with Springboard, connecting them initially with Microsoft’s engineers. “The program provides Microsoft engineering and other teams the ability to connect directly with founders, which influences how we think about our products in [our] Office Experiences Organization and we can share our perspective on their product from development through to delivery,” she said.
Larson-Green said this year’s initiative would expand beyond the engineering group to include the marketing team. “One big change for us [is] we are also going to do some smaller mentoring ‘master class’ sessions during the program,” she added.
Tom Chapman, chairman of Lon-don-based Matchesfashion, said he’s seen a number of changes within retail from brick-and-mortar to digital. He noted that the bulk of the Matchesfashion business is done via mobile, with 85 percent of revenues from outside the U.K. and the U.S. being its number-one market. The changing consumer preferences have him and his team on the lookout for new talent, both on the creative and technological side.
According to Chapman, his firm has connected with several entrepreneurs through the Lab, although not every-one is a participant in the current class. Matchesfashion will mentor two or three firms from the current class and recon-nect with others later on. As for what start-ups are interesting to the e-tailer, Chapman said: “We’re thinking firstly how we can work with you to integrate what you’re doing into our business and how it benefits and supports you and how it would help our clients.” The chairman also said his company is looking at start-ups from the customer perspective, and not necessarily from a tech point of view.
This year’s class includes nine ear-ly-stage firms. Class members include: Awear Solutions, which tracks data analyt-ics through interconnected devices — the process is called Internet of Things, or IoT — that gives firms post-sale product behav-ior to leverage repeat sales; E-Contenta, a personalized native ads platform that helps to improve the customer conversion
rate; FindMine, a tech firm that scales outfitting across retailers and brands to help consumers complete the look, and Zeekit, a platform that allows fashionistas to virtually see themselves in new outfits and obtain sizing recommendations when shopping online.
Past participants include 2014 partic-ipant Trendalytics, a big data product intelligence platform, and from last year’s class Claire, a chatbot using artificial intel-ligence to test merchandise before it goes into production.
Karen Moon, chief executive officer and founder of Trendalytics, said her firm is now working with 27 customers, with about 10 who are large-scale global brands and retailers, and half on the For-tune 500 list. Alex and Ani and Li & Fung were its mentors during the accelerator program. It continued working with the Fung Group post the Lab program.
Moon said, “The [mentors] are open to sharing what problems they are having, and what they are looking for in tech solutions. That’s a shift from three or four years ago when many didn’t have time to speak with start-ups. The retailers and executives are realizing that they can build faster with a start-up, so they are telling us what they need and telling us what they want us to build up.”
Marta Jamrozik, cofounder of Claire, said her company has continued its work with Kohl’s Department Stores, a rela-tionship that began through the Lab’s mentoring component. The company, which earlier this year raised $1.7 million in funding, also counts Rebecca Minkoff as a client. She added that the Lab continues to provide support for its alumni through panel discussions, networking and other post-Lab programs.
Separately, Springboard continues to act as a venture catalyst to accelerate the growth of start-ups led by women. The company more recently began working with Dell and Guggenheim Partners to expand its reach to Gothenburg, Sweden; Sydney, and Singapore, according to Kay Koplovitz, Springboard’s cofounder and chairman. So far 84 percent of Springboard’s portfolio firms have raised capital, and collectively have raised more than $7.4 billion. There have been more than 165 liquidity events, including 14 initial public offerings, Koplovitz said.
Louboutin And the Law: Switzerland Turns Down Red Soles Trademark Request ● The shoemaker has gone to court around the world to defend its monopoly on red-soled heels.
● France’s Advertising Watchdog Asks Saint Laurent to Modify ‘Degrading’ Ads
● Here’s How Women’s Web Sites Will Cover the Women’s Strike
● Marni Senofonte: From Norma Kamali’s Assistant To Beyoncé’s Head Stylist
● Think Tank: Luxottica, Essilor Merger Is Bad For Brands — and Consumers Too
Top 5TRenDingoN WWD.CoM
NEWSMAKERSThis Week’s Most Talked About Names In our Industry
Karl Lagerfeld
Miuccia Prada
Bernard Arnault
Ashley Graham
business
Richard Hayne: Retail Bubble Has Burst
business
New York Fashion Tech Lab Back for Accelerator Program
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march 8, 2017 5
The Reviews
ChanelBy now, everyone knows that for his Chanel show on Tuesday, Karl Lagerfeld installed and then launched a giant rocket (35 meters/115 feet high) inside the Grand Palais. (No, it didn’t break through the dome; even he couldn’t get clearance for that.) It was quite literally awesome, and (Virgin Galactic’s efforts aside) as close as most in the audience will get to real space travel.
Extravagant? Absolutely. Some would say excessively so, especially as what becomes of a decommissioned Chanel spacecraft? But it sent a message loud and clear: Chanel is first, foremost and unapologetically a luxury house. Let other brands pursue the lure of street-wear; Lagerfeld has done it at Chanel, but always tongue-in-cheek and certainly never, ever intended to look like actual streetwear.
Creating distinctive luxury product that looks like luxury product has surely worked for him and the house, as one can see anecdotally by the legions of pan-gen-erational clients who turn out for the shows, particularly couture, bedecked in all their tweeded glory. Fake proletarian style? Non, merci!
Those women do want newness, as in new versions of the signatures they crave
CollectionsFall
2017
and collect. This time, Lagerfeld deliv-ered with a soupçon of a space motif, but arriving guests looking at the rocket and anticipating Karl-does-Courrèges were oh so wrong. “There’s going to be space clothes, but not silly like the Sixties,” he said during a preview.
Rather, fashion’s new “Rocket Man” (the finale song) let his fabrics do the soaring. With their richness and density, Chanel tweeds make the perfect material for otherworldly allusions — night sky, sur-face of Mars, Milky Way? Sure. That meant countless incarnations, many rendered all sparkly starry via Lurex, sequins and crys-tals. There were also leathers in moon-walk silver and deep aurora borealis hues.
Overall, the color palette went two ways — white, gray and silver with black, in homage to the standard astronaut regalia (particularly that of Frenchman Thomas Pesquet), and rich darks — red, navy, purple — derived from various planetary surfaces, according to Karl “Sagan” Lagerfeld. These were used for a lineup of characteristically chic suits in multiple incarnations. Dresses were plentiful as well, from stiff and straight to curvy. Sometimes Lagerfeld added the dash of walking shorts under-neath. Trousers cropped at the ankles offered a smart shot of sportif. As for more overt thematic references: an amusing astronaut print and some wacky head wraps that looked like quilted Mylar. Almost everything was worn with step-lively, low-heeled glitter boots.
Were there bags? Is the universe vast? They ranged from big, side-pocketed car-ryalls slung around the models’ necks to a small silver disc strung with chain fringe.
All of it (Mylar chapeaux aside) will exit Lagerfeld’s space program for a safe landing in tony earthly wardrobes. Out of this world yet totally grounded. That’s Lagerfeld’s mis-sion, and he’s in control. — Bridget Foley
Chanel
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Louis VuittonLouis Vuitton envisions a borderless world. Except when it comes to getting into its show. Nicolas Ghesquière pre-sented his fall collection in the Louvre’s Cour Marly. The way in proved consider-ably less enchanting, as arriving guests had to negotiate barricades set up to keep the uninvited at bay. Throngs of celebrity seekers and the just plain curious com-pletely obscured the narrow unmarked entrance, leaving many guests confused, fearful of missing the show and, yes, annoyed.
Once inside, you got to soak up the majesty of the space and its exquisitely lit statues before taking in an improved and interesting Louis Vuitton show. Ghesquière drew from disparate refer-ences for what once would have been called an expression of magpie style. Yet in this politically charged season, ideas that started to percolate in New York and carried through to the last major show of the fall 2017 season, have imposed deeper import, although here, as in most cases, the clothes were just that, clothes. Ghesquière mulled notions of blurred
boundaries — cultural, gender, day/night. The collection, his notes stated, “aims to do away with frontiers altogether and shift into the evocation of the nomadic, where the city blends with different landscapes…”
The city may blend, but it was never erased as Ghesquière clearly had urban dressing on his mind. For the most part, he took a sportswear-centric approach, one rooted in the very L.A. idea that a pair of pants and a piece of edgy, trans-seasonal outerwear will take a girl far. He thus offered a range from short leather jacket to boho-collaged furs. Some looks swung chic — belted tweed jacket over white shirt and pants — and some schoolgirl, particularly when he swapped out the pants for a short tweed skirt and paired it with a cozy shearling jean jacket.
The high point came with little slip-dresses in mixes of lovely silk florals and brocades. These blurred the boundaries between day and night as well as between eras, the romance of the fabrics tempered by no-nonsense ankle boots. If she’s going to roam, a girl needs a purposeful step and a sensible shoe. — Bridget Foley
CollectionsFall
2017
Louis Vuitton
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Miu Miu The faux fur flew at Miu Miu (some real stuff, too). It was everywhere. Every inch of the entryway, the benches, pillars and the grand staircase in the Palais d’Iéna was covered in fake purple fur. The crux of the collection was daffy, wildly oversize furry coats and coat collars, punctuated by fur rain hats and bubble newsboy caps and flat fur boots in cartoon colors — demonstrative blue, purple, green and yellow. It gave you a warm, fuzzy feeling, and not just texturally. The lineup, with its emphasis on happy hues and exaggerated feminine silhouettes, many of them strung with rhinestones and crystals galore, tilted toward the Seventies. At least on the surface level, it read as great fashion in a very good mood.
After the show, Miuccia Prada tried to position her message a bit differently.
“It’s about the madness of glamour in this time, in front of a very uncertain future,” she said, clearly referencing the pivotal political moment that’s upon us. She said something similarly heavy after last sea-son’s show, a delightful beach romp full of adorable retro swimwear and fabulous fur robes. Both times, the attempts to frame the collection politically or intellectually didn’t change or subvert the fact that at face value her designs registered as effu-sive, girly and fun in a maximal, madcap, eccentric Miu Miu way. They were set up for strong commercial translation. All the plush stuff gave a sense of softness and comfort. A teddy bear fur coat with an ultra-wide collar and rhinestone belt was worn over a full turquoise mohair skirt with a bubble cap and high-heel saddle shoes. A green, black, white and blue windowpane-plaid fur coat was paired with flat purple Modish moto boots. Even
the slim silhouettes were over the top: a matching pink-and-white printed polo shirt and pants set worn with a glittery head-band and big earrings; a dress covered in large green paillettes with a gold rococo embroidered swirl across the bodice. A retro current coursed through the show, heightened by the styling, but the group of fantastic bomber jackets with striped bands around the elbows and extravagant real fur collars stood out as very current. Likewise the wispy slips worn under long-haired pastel fur coats.
One thing Prada mentioned after the show that did resonate visually and polit-ically was her focus on diverse casting, including models of a wide range of ethnicities, skin tones and body types. “It’s the first time we really got into different beauties,” she said. That’s not madness, that’s modern glamour. — Jessica Iredale
Miu Miu
8 march 8, 2017
Moncler gamme RougeGiambattista Valli went into the woods for his fall Moncler Gamme Rouge col-lection, setting the runway around an autumn foliage scene of fallen leaves and mossy plants surrounded by a moving forest video projected on the walls that made it feel like the room was spinning. Apparently, this little wooded glen was in Canada. At the end of the show, a troop of fully uniformed Canadian Mounties came out and stood guard for the mod-els’ final walk.
As for the collection, Valli took Mon-cler’s outerwear-driven concept in a naïve, feminine, folkloric direction, layering chunky pink and maroon-ish tweeds with Fair Isle knits, Windbreakers and puffers in delicate floral prints, and accessorizing them with cozy knit socks and slippers, white tights and printed quilted puffer backpacks and camping rigs. Alpine bourgeoise good girls hit the trails in a boxy tweed jacket and skirt worn over a burgundy floral-print nylon jacket and white turtleneck, and a folksy white lace shift with red floral trim over a turtleneck and neck scarf, carrying a backpack that fastened like lederhosen across the chest.
Much of the lineup put a dainty, roman-tic spin on outdoorsy-ness, but there was a robust, sporty contingent too, much of which felt more relevant. A V-neck ski sweater with a striped neckline under a big fur coat, for example; a red-and-black buffalo-plaid workwear jacket, and a nifty red-and-white ski jacket-dress with a fur hood and drawstring waist that gave it a fit-and-flare silhouette. — Jessica Iredale
ellery“I’ve never taken acid; I’ve never been to India,” Kym Ellery said after showing her fall collection, a trippy lineup that began with bourgeois staples and ended up at a crossroads between Marie Antoi-nette and the hippie trail.
“The inspiration was all about this traditional bourgeois woman who goes on this psychedelic trip and has an electric awakening,” the designer explained.
Off-kilter details ranged from oversize pearl buttons to boots with colored Perspex heels inspired by lava lamps. The pearls appeared on items including an oversize camel dou-ble-breasted suit, cropped flares and a coat dress made of French lace with a kaleidoscopic latex finish.
Two things stood out in this collection: textural effects — highlights included a glossy black coat in a quilted wave design — and daring plays on volume: an oversize black fur collar on a purple Lurex coat, or moire bustier tops with exaggerated sleeves.
Ellery has shown on the official schedule in Paris since 2015 and recently moved to the city, signaling she is ready to grow her international presence. Fans already include Rihanna and Olivia Palermo, and it’s a safe bet that plenty more will follow. — Joelle Diderich
Shiatzy ChenWang Chen Tsai-Hsia continued to steer Shiatzy Chen on its neo-Chinese-chic-meets-West path, juxtaposing handcraft-in-tensive embellishments with sporty silhou-ettes accessorized with hiking boots.
Classical motifs from the East and West that meandered between rococo flourishes and rich Chinese embroideries cohabited on the contemporary silhouettes.
The more elaborate looks included a silk jacquard gown dancing with dragon and lion motifs that was designed in China and woven in Italy, which the designer paired with a shrunken baseball jacket with an embroidered dragon on the back.
A run of white lace looks tricked out with bows and court sleeves paled a bit in comparison. The buttery red leather dresses with ruffles worn with embroi-dered over-the-knee boots bridged the themes better.
Standouts included the bordeaux and dark gold Lurex parkas that brought subtle shine into the mix, a pastel silk cocoon coat with a lovely Chinese embroidery of a tree on the back and a bottle-green dress with a gold print that formed the perfect balance between the two distant worlds. — Katya Foreman
paul & JoeThe look was less preppy and more street this season at Paul & Joe, less cute and more rock.
The show opened with a wide-wale corduroy suit in lime green, setting the tone for a collection that saw designer Sophie Mechaly put her penchant for vivid textures and colors to use on a more mas-culine silhouette.
A long velvet hoodie sported a col-or-block graphic in amber and electric blue. Paired with floral silk bell-bottoms, the look married the season’s streetwear bent to the playful prints that are the designer’s signature.
Blown-up mouths in different shades of pink lipstick were a key pattern. When stitched on a kelly green blazer, the motif tapped into the brand’s whimsical heritage as well as the current zeitgeist of maximal-ist, even cartoony decoration.
“I wanted something extremely urban but also extremely luxurious,” Mechaly explained backstage. That upscale aspira-tion shone through on a fierce overdyed red velvet tuxedo. A transparent lace blouse was decorated with a constellation of rhinestones and pearls, bringing in an ultrafeminine touch to the largely androgy-nous lineup. — Robert Williams
Moncler Gamme Rouge
Shiatzy Chen
Paul & JoeEllery
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So RichOpulence, Baroque influences and an air of romanticism reigned during the fall collections. Shoes came in luxurious silk velvet or featured elaborate embroidery, while bags were adorned with delicate feathers or satin bows. By MaYtE allEndE
CollectionsFall
2017
Elie Saab
J.W. AndersonAquazzura
Tabitha Simmons
10 march 8, 2017
Alexander McQueen
Rochas
Dior
Roger Vivier
Lanvin
Olgana Paris
12 march 8, 2017
● Cayli Cavaco Reck has big plans to open shops-in-shops in additional doors at the department store.
By raChEl Strugatz
NEW YORK — What started out as a sum-mer pop-up project in the Hamptons last year is fast turning into a growing beauty destination for Cayli Cavaco Reck.
On March 8, Reck will open a Knockout Beauty shop-in-shop on the ground floor of Bloomingdale’s SoHo. This is her second permanent retail outpost, following a shop at 1031 Lexington Avenue on the Upper East Side here — and her largest retail space to date. Additional locations have yet to be finalized, but the retailer plans to roll out Knockout Beauty spaces in other Blooming-dale’s doors in top-performing markets.
The space will carry 40 brands that span skin care, color cosmetics, body care and supplements from an assortment of independent brands, with prices ranging from $15 for Farmacy Lip Blooms to $300 for a gold Environ derma roller. La Creme Beauté, which hails from the U.K., is seeing
distribution in the U.S. for the first time with Knockout Beauty, as are products from Alexandra Wagner, a celebrity facial-ist from Los Angeles. Other brands carried in the space are Patyka, Vertere, Meder, January Labs, Context Skincare, Rituel de Fille and Vapor.
Knockout Beauty is a way to showcase a handful of niche, high-end lines that would traditionally not have representation on the beauty floor of a department store.
Bloomingdale’s gets to expand its range, and consumer’s get exposure beyond the legacy beauty brands they’re accustomed to seeing.
“A lot of the lines we brought in are brands that have never been in a depart-ment store before...Having that in a place like this — that is accessible to so many peo-ple — is exciting to me,” Reck said during a tour of Knockout Beauty at Bloomingdale’s.
She is enthusiastic about exposing a larger
audience to this sampling of brands with small cult followings that have “worked so hard to create a dynamic range that is highly effective...some of the ingredients here are at the forefront of beauty — and science.”
The retail concept is based on Reck’s beauty-based Instagram account, Knocking on Forty, which she turned into a seasonal boutique in Bridgehampton last May. Like the summer shop, which offered facials and eyebrow services from Mzia Shiman, the Bloomingdale’s space will offer peels from Beauty Rx and LED light therapy treatments from LightStim.
“What drew me to her project was her [Reck]. She was telling me things that I knew would resonate with our customer. She offered this unbiased perspective from a product standpoint,” said Stacie Borteck, divisional merchandise manager, cosmet-ics, at Bloomingdale’s, who first met Reck last summer when she stopped by Knock-out Beauty’s Hamptons pop-up.
“When I talked about skin-care concerns I had myself, Cayli started recommending products to me, she made me understand what I needed,” Borteck added, noting that she has added La Creme Beauté into her regimen, as well as derm rolling.
beauty
Knockout Beauty Heads to Bloomingdale’s
● The 4,000-square-foot spa is located just off the Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris.
By raChEl Strugatz
Sisley Paris’ customer service team in France fielded so many requests for a “place to do a Sisley spa treatment in Paris” that the company decided to build exactly that.
Late last month, the 4,000-square-foot Maison Sisley quietly opened just off the Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris. There are five treatment cabins (one with double beds), a salon area for pretreatments, a nearly 800-square-foot boutique and even a four-product skin-care range, Les Exclusifs Paris, developed expressly for the space. Services include an antiaging facial for 240 euros, or $254, and a three-hour global face and body treatment for 400 euros, or $423.
Philippe d’Ornano, president of Sisley, said the brand moved its head office to Paris and an opportunity presented itself in the new space: to create a place that served as a “new proposition for what we [already] offer in our boutiques around the world.”
He said Maison Sisley — decorated by Madame d’Ornano, the matriarch of Sisley’s founding d’Ornano family — was created to look like a “private house.” This is in line with a handful of the brand’s boutiques that are personalized to the city they’re located in, including the Bleecker Street store in New York, the Las Vegas boutique and an outpost in Shanghai.
D’Ornano maintained that the brand has around 80 points of distribution glob-ally that offer services from luxury hotels to department and specialty stores that carry the brand to Sisley’s 20 freestanding
stores, all of which offer services. He added that a third U.S. boutique will open in Miami in the middle of the year (the team is currently scouting locations).
The brand also operates its own spa in Taiwan with a similar concept to Maison Sisley, which d’Ornano called the “full Sisley experience.” The new space will also serve as a place to test out and per-fect new services that will eventually roll out to other stores.
“These boutiques are specific and we do that only in cities where we want to have a special investment…and in the environ-ment of the city. These are very specific,” d’Ornano explained. “Maison Sisley is part of that. Some of the art is owned by us personally. It’s called Maison Sisley, which is house; it’s the Sisley home. We wanted it to be very friendly [but] at the same time it’s a high-end and luxurious place.”
February also saw the introduction of Izia, Sisley’s new eau de parfum. The scent comes in 30-ml., 50-ml. and 100-ml. sizes that retail for $100, $150 and $220, respectively. Named for Madame d’Ornano, whose first name is Isabelle, Izia has top notes of white bergamot, pink pepper and aldehydes; middle notes of Rose d’Ornano accord, transpar-ent floral accord and angelica and base notes of cedar, amber accord and musk.
D’Ornano said the brand is making a big push with Izia, upping the amount of product sent to U.S. retail partners by 10 times (compared to the last fragrance launch). Izia is carried in about 7,500 points of distribution worldwide and 170 doors in the U.S., including Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom and a handful of independent perfumers. The eau de parfum will roll out to South America and Asia this month. Fragrance drives about 15 percent of Sisley’s over-all business.
● The free session set for April in London is meant to offer a fresh take on brick-and-mortar.
By SaMantha Conti
LONDON — FarfetchOS, the retail innova-tion event that will take place here on April 12, is taking shape with an agenda that includes speakers from brands ranging from Instagram to Deliveroo and speakers including Natalie Massenet and Will.i.am, WWD has learned.
The free, one-day event aimed at fashion brands, retailers and e-com-merce decision-makers will take place at London’s new Design Museum in Holland Park. Farfetch co-chairman and chief executive officer José Neves has described it as “a different type of hybrid,” that’s not a pure sales conference nor a thought leadership one.
“We believe that the future of luxury fashion will involve the physical store, and will be augmented by digital platforms, making a variety of unique, customer-fo-cused experiences possible,” said Neves, adding that Bain & Co., the official research partner for the event, will explore the intersection of physical and digital retail.
The panel session will feature speakers from Spotify; Instagram; DST Global, the investment company that specializes in late-stage, high-growth, private Internet companies, and cofounder and ceo of Deliveroo, William Shu.
Neves will host a “fireside discussion” with Massenet about technology platforms in the luxury industry. Last week, Mass-enet, founder of Net-a-porter Group and chairman of the British Fashion Council,
joined Farfetch as non-executive co-chair-man. As reported by WWD, she also is close to launching her own venture capital fund, Imaginary Ventures.
Other participants will include Will.i.am; Miroslava Duma, the digital entrepreneur and investor; William Kim, ceo of All Saints, and Maria McClay industry head of fashion at Google. They will take part in a panel session on how technology is shaping the future of fashion.
Claudia D’Arpizio and Federica Levato, both partners at Bain’s luxury practice in Milan, will present a new report, “Fashion of the Future: The 3 C’s of Change.” Their research focuses on the evolution of the relationship between the luxury fashion customer and technology; the new pat-terns of communication and distribution it creates, and insights into the emerging behaviors of the Millennial customer.
Neves will also reveal the details of the project Store of the Future, which he first began talking about two years ago. It aims to put the customer at the center of the retail experience. He’s called Store of the Future “a unique and adaptable suite of emerging technologies” set to change the way brands and retailers interact with their customers online and offline.
“Whether capturing physical interactions in store or knowing the customer across all their channels, Store of the Future will enable brands and retailers to drive growth and champion innovation,” he said.
As reported, Neves has described Farfe-tchOS as a fresh way of championing brick-and-mortar stores. “We’re actually coming to the industry and saying, ‘You know what? Thousands of stores you have in cap-itals around the world — these are actually where all the action is going to happen.’
“The old-fashioned store with models of branding won’t survive. There needs to be some augmentation of the digital expe-rience. That’s what Farfetch does every single day, you know, we connect digital stores to digital platforms.”
He said FarfetchOS “is really about how we see the world in the next three to five years. We want to get out of this three- to 12-month mind-set and think, ‘How will people shop for fashion in five years’ time?’ That’s the essence of it,” he has said.
Knockout Beauty at Bloomingdale’s SoHo.
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In Focus: Business Insights
● Analysts from Telsey Advisory Group compared sales from 1996 to last year.
By arthur zaCzkiEwiCz
Over the past two decades in retail, the really big such as Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and Kroger Co. got bigger, while Amazon seemingly emerged from dust to be a retail juggernaut. And retail brands such as Sears Corp. and Kmart Corp. have become significantly deflated.
In Telsey Advisory Group’s latest industry update report, researchers at the firm examined the impact of a border adjustment tax, which the company said
continues to be top-of-mind with inves-tors; the flow of tax refunds last month, which impact consumer spending, and the growth of the top retailers in the U.S.
Regarding the latter, the analysts compared the major retailers in 1996 versus 2015 and found that “Wal-Mart remains the leader, more than tripling its U.S. revenue since 1996 and widening the gap with the next closest company on the list,” said Dana Telsey, chief research officer of the firm.
Citing data from Chain Store Age magazine, Telsey said in 1996, Wal-Mart’s annual sales totaled $101.1 billion, which was more than $60 billion ahead of the number-two company, Sears, Roebuck
& Co., at $38.2 billion. Third on the list was Kmart, with $31.4 billion, followed by Dayton Hudson Corp. at $25.4 billion and Kroger with $25.2 billion.
Citing data from the National Retail Federation, Telsey said in 2015, Wal-Mart had U.S. sales of $353.1 billion. At second was Kroger with $103.9 billion and Costco Wholesale Corp. with $83.5 billion. Fourth was Home Depot Inc. with $79.3 billion. In fifth was Walgreens Boots Alliance Inc., with $76.6 billion.
“Only four of the top 10 in 2015 were on the 1996 top 10 list,” Telsey analysts said in the report. The firm said the 19-year compounded annual growth rate of sales of those four companies was 6.8 percent for Wal-Mart, 7.7 percent for Kroger, 8 percent for Home Depot and 8.4 percent for Costco.
Founded in 1994, Amazon Inc. had U.S. sales of more than $60 billion in 2015, which would put it behind Walgreens Boots Alliance.
Comparing the two lists, Dayton Hud-son is now known as Target Corp. and has annual sales of more than $74 billion.
Sears Holdings Corp. now includes Kmart, and has about $25 billion in sales — which compares to combined sales of Sears and Kmart in 1996 of nearly $70 billion.
The Telsey analysts said looking at today’s top retailers made them wonder what retailing would look like in 2025. They speculated that “some form of Facebook, Instagram and/or Snapchat” might “initiate transactions and make the list.” Or that once pure-play e-tailers that are opening physical stores would join the list, while international retailers such as Inditex would “accelerate their expan-sion in the U.S.” to take a top spot.
Regarding any proposed border adjust-ment tax, the analysts said 2017 contin-ues to be challenging for retailers — even with inventories in good shape — and that many companies have expressed concerns over the impact of a BAT. “Most retailers admit that the border tax would be detrimental (and that it would more than offset the benefits from a lower corporate tax rate), but continue to refrain from commenting on the finan-cial impact, though several noted that the industry would lobby against it and that it would not likely pass in its current form,” Telsey said.
Regarding tax refunds, Telsey ana-lysts said in the report that total returns received by consumers were down more than 24 percent in early February and nearly 11 percent in the back half of the month. As a result, the researchers said it has hurt retail sales for the month.
● Retailers are faced with minimizing hurdles in order to convert online sales.
By ElizabEth doupnik
As consumers’ attention spans con-tinue to dwindle, retailers and brands are being charged with offering frictionless customer service in order to capture and maintain shoppers. Astound Commerce, a global digital commerce provider released the results of its 20th Annual Mystery Shopping Study, which discerned retailers and brands that are excelling in the cus-tomer service segment.
Top performers included B&H, Gap, L.L. Bean, Lancôme, Moosejaw, Home Depot and Zappos. Here, Lauren Freed-man, senior vice president of digital strat-egies at Astound Commerce, discusses the effects of shifting consumer expectations and new technology that’s enhancing the shopper’s journey.
Online experiences were once driven by consumers’ desires for quick access and general efficiency. This
seems to be evolving to an emphasis on the quality of customer service. Why has this transition occurred?
I think there are two issues in play here. The web has moved from being simply surgical shopping to also facilitating experiential shopping and browsing, which changes the dynamic. Service has always been a factor in the customer experience and smart merchants realize service is and can always be a differentiator.
This emphasis has occurred for a num-ber of reasons including everything from the dominance of Amazon to the need for survival. Transparency means greater visibility into performance and shoppers are a click away from posting both positive and negative customer service feedback. Also customer service factors more into the overall experience and future selection of retailers, and includes expedited deliv-ery times and heightened expectations in terms of response time.
Customer service expectations range dramatically depending on the gener-ation, how can retailers and brands ensure their approach will meet as
large of a consumer base as possible without ostracizing a group?
Offer solutions aimed at a wide audi-ence and let the customer make the choice particularly as those needs are shifting and convenience drives usage. Some needs are easily handled via self-service while others are better serviced by interaction. Live chat has helped bridge the gap.
The study reveals that PayPal con-tinues to be adopted faster by retailers. How is PayPal outpacing competitors?
In our research, PayPal is fully outpacing others, but was introduced in 1998. I think there are opportunities for others to play a significant role particularly with mobile adop-tion numbers accelerating. Both Visa and MasterCard are leveraging existing relation-ships with retailers who are now early adopt-ers and advertising appears to be plentiful.
How can chatbots address some of the lags in responses to customer queries?
They can serve as an efficiency model on standard questions. The ability to personal-ize and evolve based on learning to become more relevant over time will also be valuable to both the shopper and the retailer.
What technology will bolster retailers’ responsiveness to customer inquiries via e-mail? What type of solu-tions should they consider adopting to improve customer service?
It starts with deciding if the retailer wants to support an e-mail channel and if it’s wise for them, while also factoring in their customer expectations. Knowl-edge bases coupled with training will be invaluable.
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Wal-Mart Keeps Top U.S. Sales Pole Position, Amazon Gains
business
Distracted Shoppers Call for Intuitive Customer Service
6.8%Annual growth rate of Wal-Mart since 1996.
Customer service factors more into the overall experience and future selection of retailers, and includes expedited delivery times and heightened expectations in terms of response time.
march 8, 2017 15
● Fashion and beauty companies are launching a series of initiatives focused on women on March 8.
By alESSandra turra anD liSa loCkwood wIth contrIButIonS
From Sharon EdElSon, robErt williaMS anD SaMantha Conti
Fashion, beauty and retail companies are launching a series of female-centric initia-tives to celebrate International Women’s Day today.
These efforts span from sustainable pro-grams aimed at boosting gender equality in the workplace to the introduction of promotions targeting female customers both in-store and online.
In addition, the women behind Janu-ary’s worldwide Women’s March to protest against the incoming administration of President Trump are organizing “A Day Without a Woman” today to encourage women to wear red, stay home from work and shop in female-owned retailers.
To mark the day, Chime for Change, Gucci’s international campaign to empower women and girls, and Global Citizen, a group striving to end extreme poverty by 2030, are publishing an open letter about the fight for gender equality.
“All over the world, women are on the front lines fighting for our future. Yet millions of girls and women are still denied basic equal rights. And recent policies and appointments in the United States jeop-ardize its position as a global leader and positive role model on human rights,” the letter reads. “We stand together to say, in a voice louder than ever, that fighting for gender equality is the emergency and the opportunity of our time.”
The letter will appear as a full-page advertisement in four newspapers — The New York Times, The International New York Times, the Financial Times and The Wall Street Journal — and is signed by more than 25 personalities, including Chime for Change co-founders Beyoncé Knowles-Car-ter and Salma Hayek Pinault, as well as Kering’s chairman and chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault, Gucci ceo Marco Bizzarri and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele.
The members of Coldplay, Madonna, Dakota Johnson, Freida Pinto, Julia Roberts and Jada Pinkett Smith are also among those who signed the letter. Gucci will support the initiatives through its social media accounts.
Calvin Klein Inc. ceo Steve Shiffman today will sign the Women’s Empower-ment Principles, a partnership initiative of U.N. Women comprising a set of seven steps that businesses can take to promote
gender equality in the workplace, such as establishing high-level corporate leader-ship for gender equality; fighting against any form of discrimination, and ensuring education, training and professional devel-opment for women.
“Calvin Klein has long been a champion for gender equality, and as a brand we have led many cultural conversations sur-rounding this critical topic. It is important for us as a global leader to continue to fight for gender equality across the world, and lead true social change in everything we do,” said Shiffman.
He continued, “I am committed to build-ing upon the values that Calvin Klein and our parent company PVH Corp. uphold as cornerstones of our corporate cul-ture. Every Calvin Klein associate has the right to realize their full potential at our company, regardless of gender, ethnicity, sexual orientation or background. As a leading global brand, we must use our
reach to promote inclusion, diversity and equality as a human standard.”
Last March, PVH Corp. signed the Wom-en’s Empowerment Principles and the United Nations Global Compact.
Today, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton will award its first EllesVMH prize to mark International Women’s Day. The prize will reward two out of 10 prese-lected initiatives from the group’s houses and international affiliates for their role in promoting gender diversity at an event at the group’s Paris headquarters on Avenue Montaigne.
A company strongly focused on the development of projects aimed at empow-ering women across the globe, Benetton Group is celebrating the day by launching internationally #UnitedByHalf, a campaign promoting gender equality directed espe-cially to men. Challenging social stereo-types around the role of Indian women, the campaign, which made its debut in India on Valentine’s Day, features images of couples portrayed as equal partners.
On the social media side, Michael Kors is recognizing nine women who have inspired him over the past 35 years on the company’s Instagram, Facebook and Twitter channels. It began Monday with Joan Kors, the designer’s mother, and will feature such women as Anna Wintour, Blake Lively, Kate Hudson and Michelle Obama, all culminating with a story on DestinationKors.com on today.
For the second year, high-end British skin-care brand Elemis is supporting the #SheInspiresMe campaign promoted by nonprofit humanitarian organization Women for Women International. Elemis is encouraging its customers to switch their Facebook and Twitter profile pictures with the image of a woman inspiring them and post about her on Instagram using the hashtag #SheInspiresMe.
Aligning with the day, Theory and Lola, an organic cotton tampons company, teamed up on limited-edition kits fea-turing health, beauty, fashion and home products. One hundred percent of each kit purchase will benefit Girls Who Code. Kits will retail for $50 and will be available at Theory stores throughout the U.S. and online at theory.com starting today. The
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Fashion Industry Marks International Women’s Day
Women’s March for Solidarity in London.
Theory and LOLA are partnering on limited-edition kits.
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kit contains a Theory x Lola limited-edition “Be Heard” T-shirt, (retail value, $85); Lola three-pack tampons ($9 for full box); a Hanky Panky organic cotton thong ($18); Goop revitalizing day moisturizer ($10); a Lulu Frost beaded tassel keychain ($90), MoonJuice power dust ($30); a PF Candle Co. mini soy candle ($11), Inscape three months of meditation ($39); a Ritual one-month vitamin subscription ($30); Rodin Olio Lusso face oil ($170 for full size); a S’well 9-oz. bottle ($25), and Tula Probiotic purifying cleanser ($28).
Rebecca Minkoff is collaborating with FEED’s Lauren Bush Lauren on a line of three bags that give back. The collection, which retails from $145 to $295, includes a fold-over clutch, unlined cross-body and whipstitch tote. Made of 100 percent cot-ton, the tribal print is black ecru and yel-low, and all pieces are finished with silver hardware. With each purchase, the Minkoff fold-over clutch will provide 37 meals, the unlined cross-body will provide 62 meals and the tote will provide 74 meals. The collection is available in Minkoff stores, rebeccaminkoff.com, feedprojects.com and Nordstrom.
Technical clothing brand Aday has teamed with entrepreneur and designer Lisa King to create a limited-edition scarf to celebrate women and modern-day feminism. The scarves, retailing for $60, became available for purchase on March 4 and today, 50 percent of all proceeds from Aday’s site will be donated by Aday to Vital Voices, a non-governmental
organization whose mission is to identify, invest and bring visibility to extraordinary women around the world. The scarves embody two different words to represent women: “Feminist” and “Dreamer.”
A.L.C. has created an exclusive and lim-ited-edition T-shirt that celebrates female energy, positivity and community. “The Woman” T-shirt will be available on alcltd.com for $98, starting today. All proceeds will be donated to Planned Parenthood.
Lebanese fashion house Sarah’s Bag, which offers one-of-a-kind sustainable luxury accessories, is launching today a see-now-buy-now capsule collection of bags entirely crafted by Syrian refugees. All the pieces included in the “Who Runs the World” capsule are decorated with slogans that first appeared on the cardboard signs carried at the Women’s March in January.
Fashion influencer Chiara Ferragni is also joining the day’s celebrations by selling on her shop.theblondesalad.com online store a limited-edition T-shirt developed in collaboration with Italian brand Melidé. Available in only 30 pieces, the T-shirt features the word “Feminist” embroidered on the front, while the symbol of the planet Venus appears on the back.
Italian makeup label Wycon is launching today “Real Kisses for Real Women,” a lim-ited-edition kit featuring a zippered case printed with a cartoonish reinterpretation of J. Miller’s iconic “We Can Do It!” poster with Rosie the Riveter, which contains a creamy lipstick and a lip pencil, available in 15 colors, from nude to violet. The kit will be available at the brand’s stores, and online, for 14.90 euros, or $15.76. The launch of “Real Kisses for Real Women” will be supported by a campaign featuring three real women, which the company chose among those submitting their candi-dacy on Wycon’s web site.
Fashion and beauty labels are also offer-ing special online discounts and special in-store activities during the day.
For example, Hong-Kong based fashion brand Grana, which delivers staple pieces in quality fabrics at affordable prices, today will debut the #BeBoldForChange initiative by offering a 21 percent discount on its women’s wear collection. The dis-count will be available online by inserting the promo code BEBOLD at checkout.
“The average pay gap between men and women is 21 percent, which means that for every dollar a man makes, a woman earns 79 cents. At the end of the day, women earn less money than men, estimating
that it’s going to take only 169 years until gender equality…” said a Grana spokes-woman. “This is pretty ridiculous to us and to #BeBoldForChange, so we decided to offer 21 percent off on all women’s apparel on March 8. Are we changing the world by offering this? No. But we do believe that we’re bringing attention to the bigger conversation on equality.”
Starting from today through March 12, Italian beauty brand Collistar will cele-brate its female customers with a special promotion. For each purchase made at the company’s online store, collistar.it, the label will include a free red lipstick in the shipment.
Today, New York-based beauty label Kiehl’s is welcoming women at its corner at
Milanese department store La Rinascente by offering them a free customized skin-care consultation. In addition, the brand is offering its guests a “tea bar experience” developed in collaboration with prestigious French brand Dammann Frères, which will serve a selection of teas combined with New Zealand’s Manuka honey.
Birchbox, the beauty box company cofounded by ceo Katia Beauchamp, has a slew of initiatives around the “Day With-out a Woman” strike planned for today to combat the wage gap and empower her mostly female workforce and female leaders worldwide. The company is offer-ing a discount of 20.4 percent — also in recognition of the gap between women’s and men’s pay — which will be applied to all online and SoHo store purchases of Power Products (multitasking products) made on the day.
Birchbox is partnering with The Girl Proj-ect, an organization dedicated to ensuring that girls everywhere have access to quality secondary education and will donate 5,000 boxes and $15,000, which provides a full year of tuition for 35 first-generation students in developing countries. Among other initiatives, Birchbox will offer free professional photo shoots, makeovers and treats at the store March 9 in New York’s SoHo from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., so women can take a new professional headshot and show the world who’s boss.
QC Terme spas and resorts, which oper-ates thermal spas and resorts in several Italian locations, is feting the day by giving its female guests a free special beauty kit, including a hair mask, a red argyle mud and a mimosa body scrub, all coming in a waterproof vanity case.
Retailers will also celebrate the day. The world’s largest retailer, Wal-Mart Stores Inc., today hopes to engage associates around the world with a 90-minute event at its Bentonville, Ark., headquarters featuring keynote speaker Susan Scott, founder and ceo of Fierce, and the best-selling author of “Fierce Leadership: A Bold Alternative to the Worst ‘Best’ Prac-tices of Business Today.”
As a women-owned business, Scott said she champions diversity in the workplace and flexible solutions that “push the enve-lope on the responsibilities and behaviors of great leaders.” Wal-Mart employs 2.3 million associates worldwide, the majority of them women. A Wal-Mart spokesman said more than 11 markets will be viewing the address live. Wal-Mart is encouraging associates to share via social media with the hash tag #IWD2017. “You’ll also see us re-share stories on our corporate social channels,” the spokesman said.
Amazon is involving its Milan-based cus-tomers, who use the Prime Now service, in a culinary journey at the discovery of the most refined meat qualities available for purchase on the web site. Thirty people, who bought special coupons at Amazon Prime Now retailing for 38 euros each, or $40.19 at current exchange rate, will enjoy a dinner in a prestigious location cooked by a still undisclosed Michelin-star chef, who will prepare dishes using Argentinian roast beef, American black Angus and Japanese Kobe beef.
In honor of International Women’s Day, Diane von Furstenberg is kicking off voting for the People’s Voice Award, one of five awards that will be given at the 8th annual DVF Awards on April 6. The DVF Awards recognize and support women who are using their resources, commit-ment and visibility to transform the lives of others. Voting on dvfawards.com starts today and goes through March 22.
Beginning today and through March 12, shoppers will also receive 15 percent off the new full-price collection in DVF stores and on dvf.com, and DVF will donate 15 percent to the organizations under consideration for this year’s People’s Voice Award.
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For Women EverywhereDayle Haddon is being honored at the U.N. Women for Peace awards for starting the OneWoman organization to help educate girls worldwide.
Before Dayle Haddon could start an interview about her non-profit WomenOne, or even take a seat, she had numerous iPhone photos and personal exchanges to show how children's lives in Nanyuki, Kenya, and other under-served places are being helped.
In her 12 years as a UNICEF ambassador, she has trekked all over Africa and South America, where cholera and other dis-eases, hunger and poverty are destroying lives. The idea for her education-focused WomenOne sprang from a visit to an Angola health clinic where women had walked all night, in some cases carrying children, to get care. After learning two microscopes were needed and learning that UNICEF deemed such a donation too small, Haddon realized that smaller organizations have their own places to serve.
Motivated by the fact that 65 million girls are out of school globally, she pointed to U.N. research that indicates that educating one girl is comparable to educating seven people. An educated girl is less likely to contract HIV/AIDS and more likely to become a woman who has a child that lives past the age of five, Haddon added. In the nine years since she started her own charity, Haddon and her team have touched down in seven countries to enroll hundreds of girls in school, subsequently improving the lives of thousands of women globally. Some of the children her group has helped can be seen in colorful, oversize photographs in her uptown apart-ment. A box that she is filling with
toys to send to them is another clue to her non-New York life. Haddon will be honored for her efforts at Friday’s United Nations Women for Peace Awards.
The model-author-activist said of the recognition, "I can’t do it without the people I work with, the people I have worked with, the incredible donors and companies that step up and the people we help so we all win. It is really a privilege to do this work. This award also has positive repercussions for the people we help. They will celebrate it as well, as they should."
"This is an industry that cre-ates things for women and girls. We have to do something for their benefit not just something they buy,” said Haddon, noting that Ap-ple is partnering with WomenOne to through its Benevity program and Haddon will visit its Cupertino offices to discuss WomenOne with staffers.
Casually dressed in slim pants and a crisp white J. Crew shirt, Haddon's stance reflects her years of studying dance. The only model to have had four major cosmetic contracts, Haddon has a 15-year association with L’Oréal, including two years of philan-thropic efforts.
Haddon said her definition of beauty has evolved over the years since she began model-ing in the Seventies. "The way I looked was not the look at the time — very tall Nordic or Texan blonde girl. I was a very small, dark-haired Canadian with little freckles. It just wasn’t an ‘in’ look. There wasn’t a lot of diversity in looks, which there is now and
is great,” she said. “It took me a long time to be successful, which makes you more grateful."
“Owing everything" to fash-ion photographer Guy Bourdin, whom she worked with more than anyone, Haddon said, "We didn’t care about the paycheck we only cared about creating great photos."
Sarah Moon, Helmut Newton, Cecil Beaton, Jacques Henri Lartigue and Horst were other collaborators. "For me, modeling has a lot of richness, history and depth for relating, being exposed to creativity and a complicity
when people work together on something artistic and really great,” she said.
A 1976 shoot with Lord Snow-don of Haddon dining alone with some high-powered European designers in their homes or wherever they preferred was one to remember. “Some refused. Some were welcoming. Some destroyed the outfit and had to stay up all night. Some decided they wanted to eat caviar on the Champs Elysees." she said. “[Emanuel] Ungaro said he was too shy and would never bring anyone to his home. He wanted
to go to his favorite restaurant. With [Yves] Saint Laurent, I was at his house. [Pierre] Cardin was more emphatic about what he wanted and smart about what he wanted. [Pierre] Balmain did not want to do it but he agreed as long as I did not look at him. I was not allowed to have a glass of wine or eat with him."
“A great model has to bring something of herself, but be in the style of the photographer,” said Haddon, naming Karlie Kloss, Gigi Hadid (“adorable and a look of our time”) and Christy Turlington as current favorites. Along with
philanthropic ties, Kloss and Turl-ington understand that modeling is a business. They know, "How do you extend the longevity? How do you turn it into more than your five minutes of fame?’" she said.
"Beauty in your Twenties is a wrinkle-free beauty, with no marks, no experience. It takes time for experience and that’s a different kind of beauty. For me, a lot of beauty is wrapped up in how you treat people, how you feel about yourself and how generous you are. Generous means many things — listening, including or be-ing kind to people. It can also be about giving, doing what you can, or making a positive difference wherever you are with whoever you meet as best you can. That’s real beauty,” Haddon said. "You can’t desperately hang onto what you looked like or what you were like in your Twenties, Thirties or Forties. Even though you let go of some gifts, you embrace some new gifts."
Through WomenOne, Haddon is seeking all sorts of giving. Last fall Charlotte Moss hosted and financed a fund-raiser at her home with chief executive officers that reaped $200,000. “This is what’s possible when people step up and say, ‘Alright, I’m not going to be able to go to Africa, but this is what I can do,’” Haddon said. "There are different parts that people can contrib-ute. Everybody holds a puzzle piece. I just do what I do best. My invitation is, ‘Please reach out to us. At the minimum, support us on social media. Come see what we can do together.’" — RosemaRy FeitelbeRg
dayle Haddon with students.
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Outside the David H. Koch Theater Monday evening, Lincoln Center commuters mulled over CNN alerts that the House Re-publicans had unveiled their plan for replacing the Affordable Care Act while, inside, a procession of gowns, velvet and furs on their last outing of the season (weath-er permitting, naturally) were lured into the lobby by the sounds of a harpist at work.
“This is a happy occasion,” bel-lowed a rotund gentleman, who then scolded more junior guests for being in possession of a cell phone. The young and, er, more wise, mingled for the 13th annual
School of American Ballet winter ball, which was presented by Van Cleef & Arpels and designed by Ron Wendt, and featured a post-dinner performance by the ballet students.
“Millennials and anyone even younger, they matter so much to all of us,” said Jean Shafiroff, slipping into long black gloves for a second go-around on the step and repeat. “And of course, it merits a great dress.”
“I’m on the school’s board, and I’ve been on the board for I think a dozen years,” said Chel-sea Clinton. “I took ballet at the Washington School of Ballet for
many, many years, and when I moved to New York a mutual friend introduced me to someone who was on the board, and I had long been an admirer of the City Ballet, as well as SAB. It is one of the greatest joys of my life.”
As for whether she hopes her daughter might follow in her passion: “Oh, my gosh, she’s only two-and-a-half, but she goes to little ballet and tap class already and she loves it,” Clinton said. “Nothing would make me more grateful if she were to grow up and share my love of ballet. But I care more that she discovers whoever she is and I just get to be
along for the journey.”Across the dance floor, and
over the crunch of some shards of broken glass, a woman in a velvet gown was asking Jill Kargman for the name of her tattoo artist. The author and actor said she is confident the graceful dancing gene in her family bypassed her.
“My mom Coco was a ballerina and was an alum of this school — but I’m the worst dancer,” the “Odd Mom Out” star said. “Well, I can rock a nightclub dance floor, but I’m pretty s----y en pointe. I think it skipped a generation.” — leigh NoRdstRom
For the Love of BalletChelsea Clinton came out for the annual School of American Ballet winter ball.
Ralph Lauren Roams to ParisTatiana Casiraghi and Dana Alikhani hosted a sit-down dinner to celebrate the brand’s nomad-themed collection.
Ralph Lauren’s nomad-themed fashion collection journeyed to Paris, where it was celebrated Monday night at a sit-down dinner hosted by Tatiana Casiraghi and Dana Alikhani.
The setting was the brand’s stately flagship on Boulevard Saint-Germain, which was festooned with flowers, reminis-cent of the see-now-buy-now catwalk display Ralph Lauren put on for the line in February in New York with the backdrop of some 100,000 orchids.
“It’s a brand we love,” Casiraghi said. “And specifically this collec-tion — the nomad collection — ties
in well with our aesthetic and our idea of travel.”
This year, she and Alikhani are celebrating the fifth anniversary of Muzungu Sisters, which is their online fair-trade marketplace. “We’re doing a collaboration with a children’s wear brand that we’re launching soon,” Casiraghi continued.
Alongside increasing its offering for kids, the site will be adding more men’s wear and developing its main line. “Our idea is to continue building on our relationships with our existing artisans, and maybe looking for talent closer to home,” said Alikhani, referring to London.
“When we launched the collection, Tatiana and I were both able to travel several times a year, to India [or] Morocco to source items. And since then we’ve both had two children, so our travel is somewhat limited,” she continued.
The site already commissions weavers in Sicily and embroiders in Hungary. “We always said that we would never stop working with any community,” she said. “Once you start working with them, then you’re committed for life.”
At the outset, Muzungu Sisters worked with six different groups and now that count is 15. “The idea is to continue expanding,”
Alikhani said.She and Casiraghi received
their friends — including Joséphine de la Baume, Lauren Santo Domin-go, Eugénie Niarchos and Bianca Brandolini — upstairs in the Ralph Lauren mansion. The cocktail was held in the lounge of the ground-floor restaurant Ralph’s, where the dinner took place.
A highlight was the live performance by de la Baume, who ended her three-song set with a rendition of The Velvet Underground’s “Femme Fatale,” dedicated to Casiraghi.
De la Baume was in town film-ing the second season of “Au ser-
vice de la France,” the Netflix show about the French secret service in the Sixties. She had just wrapped a movie in Los Angeles, called “The First,” about Hollywood’s silent film era. There’s also “Madame” set to come out, in which she plays Harvey Keitel’s mistress.
“He’s one of my favorite actors,” she said. “He is a very generous actor. He loves improvising, and really leaves you the space to im-provise, which is really incredible.
Other attendees at the dinner included Charlotte Casiraghi, Peter Dundas, Noor Fares and Sofía Sanchez de Betak. — JeNNiFeR Weil
Bianca Brandolini
charlotte casiraghi, Josephine de la Baume and Tatiana casiraghi.
eugenie niarchos
Sofía Sanchez de Betak
chelsea clinton and Marc Mezvinsky
Victor de Souza and Jean Shafiroff
Margo Langenberg, frederick Koch, david Koch and Julia Koch.
paul Arnhold and indre rockefeller
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Fashion Scoops
Memo Pad
Carried AwayAlexandre Arnault presided over a family reunion at the inauguration of the Rimowa flagship in Paris on Monday night, marking his official entry into the closed circle of top brass at luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
The 24-year-old, who is joint chief executive officer of the German luggage maker, welcomed guests including his father, luxury magnate Bernard Arnault, mother Hélène, brother Frédéric and half-siblings Delphine and Antoine, as well as their respective partners, Xavier Niel and Natalia Vodianova.
“We’re superproud,” he said as guests including Karl Lagerfeld, Bella Hadid, Sidney Toledano, Virgil Abloh, Remo Ruffini, Mario Testino, Caroline Vreeland, Eugenie Niarchos, Bianca Brandolini and Alexia Niedzielski stopped by to pay their respects.
LVMH in January completed the acquisition of an 80 percent stake in Rimowa, making Arnault joint ceo of the firm alongside Dieter Morszeck, the grandson of the founder. The towering young executive has been playing a more prominent role at LVMH lately, accompa-nying Bernard Arnault to New York for a meeting with Donald Trump in January.
It appears there was more than one Rimowa fan in the crowd.
“I am actually a Rimowa client. I have been for a long time,” said Dior men’s designer Kris Van Assche. “Mine are the basic ones, but I’ve seen now they have the ones with the leather patches and those are really nice. I think that’s a smart move.”
Patrice Wagner, ceo of LVMH-owned department store Le Bon Marché, said he liked how the suitcases were solid and light at the same time. “I have been a fan of this brand since before the group bought it,” he said. “At Le Bon Marché, we were among the first in Paris to carry Rimowa. For people who travel as much as we do, it’s in a league of its own.” — Joelle dideRiCh
Rhodes goes MadThe Museum of Arts and Design is to hold its annual LOOT: MAD About Jewelry event next month.
From April 4 to 8, the museum will showcase and sell contemporary jewelry designs. It is the 17th edition of the muse-um’s signature jewelry event.
A total of 54 artists from 21 countries will be represented.
An opening benefit event will be held on April 3 — honoring Camilla Dietz Bergeron, Francine LeFrak and Kara Ross.
Dame Zandra Rhodes will serve as the gala’s honorary chair. “It’s a fabulous museum. That plot of New York only came to life since the museum was finished and they finished Columbus Circle — it was no man’s land for a long time. I’ve always gone around to see their jewelry and fabulous collection of modern ceramics. I always try to pop in,” Rhodes said of the museum.
“I’m excited to see what it’s going to be. Delicate things aren’t so much me and there is going to be drama. It’s important to support modern things happening, that is the world of our future,” the designer added of the event.
“MAD and LOOT celebrate not only the work of artists, but also the artists themselves,” LOOT curator Bryna Pomp added of the event. “The artists love relinquishing the relative isolation of their individual studios to discuss their jewelry with LOOT visitors and to meet their international colleagues. In this way, MAD fulfills its mission not only to the public but to the artists.” — misty White sidell
purple HazeGuests arriving at the Miu Miu show on Tuesday were greeted by a furry purple interior to match their invitation, with the building’s walls, pillars and stairs entirely covered in the stuff.
“I like the fluffy, I’d probably have it in orange myself,” said Lara Stone.
“It’s really soft and quite hairy,” said actress Stacy Martin, the face of Miu Miu L’Eau Bleue , who has just finished filming the Michel Hazanavicius-helmed feature “Redoutable” and is preparing for Brady Corbet’s “Vox Lux,” where she will star alongside Rooney Mara and Jude Law.
“I love it so much, it makes me want to stroke it,” cooed Dianna Agron whose latest project, “Novitiate,” was bought at Sundance and will be premiering later this year. “It’s about nuns. It follows the process towards committing yourself fully to being a nun. I’m fascinated about the subject of faith, and what drives peo-ple to different forms. I grew up Jewish, so for me it was really interesting to get in this mind-set. But the wardrobe really helps with a project like this, because it’s very restrictive.”
Her costar Rebecca Dayan was also at the show. “The atmosphere was really powerful because we were filming in a place in Nashville that used to be a convent,” she said.
“I wouldn’t mind a little wall like this in my house, all silky softness,” said Dree Hemingway, fresh from wrapping Sam Boyd’s first feature film, “In a Relationship.” “We literally finished filming yesterday, and I got straight on a plane out here,” said the actress. “I play the more skittish one who’s not sure. You know when you’re, like, ‘Yeah, we’re seeing each other but I can’t quite commit yet.’ Which is not very me,” she said, dishing out her relationship tips. “If you’re starting one out, don’t play games.” — Katya FoRemaN
Detention SquadRihanna’s not the only bad gal in town. At the singer’s detention-themed runway show for her Fenty Puma collection, held at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Cara Delevingne played the class clown.
“Is that a real book?” she asked her neighbors, Nick and Joe Jonas, thumping her fists on one of the long library tables
that doubled as the catwalk. Her hair newly chopped into a striking platinum bob, half hidden under a gray hoodie, she posed next to Salma Hayek as François-Henri Pinault, the chairman and chief executive officer of Puma parent company Kering, snapped the action.
Delevingne appears in the German sporting goods maker’s “Do You” cam-paign. Meanwhile, M. Pokora, who was also sporting bleached hair, stars in a clip promoting the Ignite Limitless shoe. “I’m on tour since last week,” said the French singer, who is set to play 70 dates between now and the end of the year.
Rihanna had also handed out a detention card, which doubled as a show invitation, to film director Luc Besson. The Barbadian singer will appear alongside Delevingne in his upcoming sci-fi movie “Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets.”
In the center of the room, French mod-el Noemie Lenoir was being introduced to the rapper Future. “Hello, I’m the past,” she said with a smirk. “No, you’re the present,” replied Future, who had proba-bly heard the line before.
“When I was at university, I used to study at this time,” mused Sita Abellan. The model, DJ and designer, who studied advertising and p.r., walked in the Fenty show last season and was decked out in
a full look from the Marie Antoinette-in-spired spring collection.
Chiara Ferragni, aka The Blonde Salad, said it had been a while since she set foot in a library after dark. “This place is magi-cal,” she enthused. “I don’t know, it makes me feel like I’m in a Harry Potter movie.”
The feeling probably dispelled once the models emerged and Hanne Gaby Odiele started tearing the pages out of a book. This was Fenty School, after all. — J.d.
Time for An HonorThe annual Creative Time gala will hon-or Opening Ceremony founders Carol Lim and Humberto Leon this year.
The 2017 edition will take place on May 3 at City Point in Brooklyn. The gala, which celebrates “the institution that, since its inception, has been at the forefront of socially engaged public art,” according to Creative Time, has chosen to honor the Opening Ceremony duo for their support of both fashion and artists, and their frequent collaborations with creatives including Yoko Ono, Robert Mapplethor-pe, Rob Pruitt, Ryan McGinley, Tom Sachs, Rene Magritte and Aurel Schmidt.
“Humberto and Carol are visionary creatives,” said Creative Time executive director Katie Hollander. “Their support for emerging talent and their collaborations with artists are of a kind with our own mission, and we couldn’t be happier to be honoring them at this year’s gala. They are, in a very real sense, artists themselves.”
Food at the gala will be provided by Mission Chinese, which is where the Leon recently threw a party during New York Fashion Week. The host committee is made up of Ono, Chloë Sevigny, Alix Browne, Spike Jonze, Megan Ellison, Jus-tin Peck, Brian Phillips, Fabienne Stephan, Lily Johnson White and Cian Browne. The gala committee includes Waris Ahluwalia, Patrick Li, Suzanne Cochran, Stephanie Ingrassia, Jill Brienza and Jon Neidich. — leigh NoRdstRom
Ho-HumThe news that Tronc may buy Us Weekly, Wenner Media’s gossip magazine, was met with a big shrug on Wall Street Tues-day. Despite reports that the two compa-nies are nearing a deal in the $85 million to $90 million range, Tronc’s stock price remained flat, closing at $13.60 a share.
A Wenner Media spokeswoman declined to comment about a sale, and a representative from Tronc did not respond to a request for comment.
Wenner Media, whose titles include Rolling Stone and Men’s Journal, has been trying to sell off Us Weekly to pay off debt.
In addition to the industrywide issues that all print publishers are dealing with, Wenner Media has been facing the finan-cial fallout from Rolling Stone’s 2014 “Rape on Campus” story, which ended up costing the company millions of dollars in lawsuits.
In September, Rolling Stone publisher and cofounder Jann Wenner sold a 49 percent stake in his flagship music and culture title to BandLab Technologies, a Singapore-based social media and retail company.
Earlier this year, Wenner Media came close to inking a deal with American Media Inc., David Pecker’s stable of tabloid titles that includes the National Enquirer, Radar Online and Star. But the sale fell through at the last minute, sources tell WWD.
Tronc, as the Tribune Publishing Co. rebranded itself last summer, is the country’s third-largest newspaper chain
and its portfolio of papers include the Los Angeles Times, Chicago Tribune and the Baltimore Sun.
The newspaper chain was widely mocked in media circles when it revealed it had changed its name to the all-lower case “tronc,” which stands for “tribune online content.” (The lower-case “t,” thank-fully, never caught on with other media outlets, where house styles make it look like a typo).
“Our rebranding to Tronc represents the manner in which we will pool our tech-nology and content resources to execute on our strategy,” chairman Michael Ferro said at the time.
And now, it seems that executing on that strategy may include adding a celebri-ty gossip magazine to its content resourc-es. — KaRa bloomgaRdeN-smoKe
Story’s DepartureRichard David Story, the longtime editor in chief of Time Inc.’s Departures, is leav-ing the luxury glossy, WWD has learned.
Story, who edited the magazine for 17 years, will exit the company on March 10. Time Inc. confirmed the news. It could not be determined if Story is departing after his contract expired. Time Inc. declined to comment on that but said Story’s exit was “mutually agreed upon.”
Alan Murray, the company’s chief con-tent officer, circulated a memo to staff
Monday, giving the news of the editor’s departure (no pun intended). He added that Nathan Lump, editorial director of the publisher’s luxury and lifestyle titles, will oversee Departures. An editor in chief for the title will be named in the “next several weeks,” Murray offered.
“As content consumption continues to evolve across today’s many media channels and platforms, Time Inc. and American Express are committed to strengthening Departures’ reach and influence in the premium luxury lifestyle space,” Murray explained.
He continued: “Under Richard’s lead-ership, Departures has solidified its repu-tation as the authority of all things luxury. We look forward to continuing to build our partnership with American Express and continuing to elevate Departures.”
A Time Inc. spokesperson under-scored Lump’s prowess as an editor, add-ing: “Nathan has a strong understanding of today’s luxury consumer and has a
proven track record of evolving brands across platforms.”
Lump’s rise at Time Inc. has been swift. He joined the publisher in 2014 as Travel + Leisure’s editor in chief, following a stint at Condé Nast where he headed up the branded content unit and worked as digital director at Condé Nast Traveler. As part of a companywide restructuring, Lump was promoted to oversee several lifestyle titles last year — but Departures had largely been left alone.
Departures was acquired by Time Inc. from American Express’ publishing arm in 2013, along with sibling glossies Travel + Leisure and Food & Wine.
Story became editor in chief of Depar-tures in 2000. Prior to that, he held senior roles at a variety of glossies, including features editor of Vogue, senior editor of InStyle and assistant managing editor of New York magazine.
He has also held editorial positions at Esquire, Travel + Leisure and USA Today, among others. — aleXaNdRa steigRad
pay CutWho said print is dead? Executives at The New York Times earned millions last year, despite a volatile print environment.
Chief executive officer and president Mark Thompson took a 43.1 percent cut in total compensation last year to $4.9 million from $8.7 million in 2015. But, ac-cording to a filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission, his 2016 pay was
still higher than his total compensation in 2014, which amounted to $4.5 million. (His 2015 compensation was inflated by a special-equity grant, the filing said.)
Digging into last year’s numbers, Thompson’s salary remained constant at $1 million, but his stock awards took the brunt of the hit, diving 60 percent to $2 million from $2.6 million in 2015.
Chairman and publisher Arthur Sul-zberger Jr. maintained his salary of $1.1 million, but his total compensation slid 12.6 percent to $5.1 million. Unlike Thomp-son, Sulzberger’s stock awards ticked up 2 percent to $2 million, but his non-equity incentive plan compensation dipped 29.9 percent to $1.9 million.
Meanwhile, executive vice president and chief revenue officer Meredith Kopit Levien got a salary boost of 6 percent to $612,346, but her total compensation shrank 5.9 percent to $1.7 million, due to a 9.2 percent decline in stock awards to $524,179 and a 16.7 percent dip in non-eq-uity incentive plan pay to $472,069.
The Times’ vice chairman Michael Golden saw his total compensation slip 12.1 percent to $1.9 million on a salary of $627,000, while James Follo, executive vice president and chief financial officer, increased his total compensation 16 per-cent to $2.3 million on a salary of $571,083.
In 2016, The Times said its net income declined 54 percent to $29.1 million, or earnings per share of 18 cents, as total revenues declined 1.5 percent to $1.56 billion. — a.s.
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