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90-93 Integra Main Fuel Relay Fix By: Ty MacWalters A major problem for the 90-93 Integra is the Main Fuel Relay. The most common problem for these failing is the soldering points breaking creating a loose connection. The change of this problem is greatly increased for people who live in warmer climates. The relay is subjected to a lot of heat when operating and is located in a rather confined area not allowing cool air to reach it. *Note this fix may not be the fix for you, the actual relay itself might be completely damaged and this fix will not help you. The most common way to tell if your relay is functioning or not is to listen for a “click” noise soon after turning the key to accessories and the engine light going out. If you don’t hear the “click” from the drivers side under-dash then more then likely the relay needs to be replaced and/or fixed. To gain access to the relay, remove the lower panel under the driver’s side dash (held in with three screws). Near the middle of the dash you will see a two boxes, the brown box attached to a mount with a 10mm bolt is the main fuel relay. (Before continuing remove the negative cable from the battery terminal) Remove the bolt that holds it to its mount and disconnect the electrical connector. With the relay free from the dash take a small flat head screw driver and separate the outer casing, like so.

Acura Integra 1990 Fuel Relay DIY

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Acura Integra 1990 Fuel Relay Test and Replace. By Ty MacWalters. How To

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Page 1: Acura Integra 1990 Fuel Relay DIY

90-93 Integra Main Fuel Relay FixBy: Ty MacWalters

A major problem for the 90-93 Integra is the Main Fuel Relay. The most common problem for these failing is the soldering points breaking creating a loose connection. The change of this problem is greatly increased for people who live in warmer climates. The relay is subjected to a lot of heat when operating and is located in a rather confined area not allowing cool air to reach it. *Note this fix may not be the fix for you, the actual relay itself might be completely damaged and this fix will not help you.

The most common way to tell if your relay is functioning or not is to listen for a “click” noise soon after turning the key to accessories and the engine light going out. If you don’t hear the “click” from the drivers side under-dash then more then likely the relay needs to be replaced and/or fixed. To gain access to the relay, remove the lower panel under the driver’s side dash (held in with three screws). Near the middle of the dash you will see a two boxes, the brown box attached to a mount with a 10mm bolt is the main fuel relay. (Before continuing remove the negative cable from the battery terminal) Remove the bolt that holds it to its mount and disconnect the electrical connector. With the relay free from the dash take a small flat head screw driver and separate the outer casing, like so.

At the top of the relay you will see two separate solder points connected to two connections. These are the most common contacts that break. With a wire brush or file clean up the points make sure to remove all impurities to ensure a good resoldering surface. Once clean, take you soldering gun (any one will do, even a $5 one from wal-mart) and close the connection between the points.

Installation is reverse as removal, before putting the dash all back together I recommend testing to see if the problem was fixed by the soldering. If the problem still remains check the points and other points on the relay to ensure a good connection. If the problem still persists after checking then the relay itself may need to be replaced which is in the 45-50$ range.

There are many theories floating around how to help against the reoccurrence of the solder points breaking, but none that are recommended.