Across the Antarctic Circle - auroraexpeditions.com.au

Across the Antarctic Circle10 - 19 February 2014 | Polar Pioneer

ABOUT USOur small group voyages carry a maximum of 54 passengers,

allowing you to have a truly intimate experience with nature.

Proudly Australian owned with over 20 years’ experience, our

voyages embody the spirit of adventure, travelling to some

of the most wild and remote areas in the world.

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the environment and our aim is to travel respectfully, creating

lifelong ambassadors for the protection of our destinations.

We push the boundaries with flexible and innovative itineraries,

numerous daily Zodiac landings, a 24 hour open bridge policy

and fascinating lectures. You’ll share your adventure with like

minded souls in a relaxed, casual atmosphere while making

the most of every opportunity for adventure and discovery.

We are dedicated to providing a ‘trip of a lifetime’ whilst

ensuring the safety and well-being of our passengers, crew

and expedition staff.

Most importantly . . . we love what we do!

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Position: 19:30 hours

Latitude: 54° 53’ S

Speed: 11.8 knots

Longitude: 67° 52’ W

Course: 96°

Wind Speed: 6 knots

Wind Direction: S

Barometer: 994.6 hPa rising

Air Temp: 11°C

Sea Temp: 8°C

After months of preparing for this trip, then long-haul flights from

all quadrants of the world, we arrived at the southerly outpost of

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, for the launch of our Antarctic adventure.

We boarded Polar Pioneer on a sunny Ushuaia afternoon, just as

our fresh provisions were being heaved aboard by a chain gang of

staff and crew. Together we total 52 passengers—an international

gathering from Australia, Austria, UK, USA, Germany, Switzerland,

Sweden and New Zealand, along with 12 Aurora and Waterproof

Expeditions’ staff and 23 Russian crew.

Once we were all onboard we made our way to the bar for a

briefing where Expedition Leader Howard spoke about plans

for our voyage and introduced us to the expedition team. Our

mandatory safety briefing followed. The sound of seven-short-

one-long from the ship’s horn was our signal to don bulky orange

lifejackets and gather at the muster station on Deck 4 behind the

bar, to sample the ambience of a Polar Class life vessel. Even without

a full complement of Russian crew, the seating arrangements in the

lifeboats proved cosy.

With a brilliant blue sky patterned with a few streaks of clouds,

the outside decks were the spots to enjoy our departure as we

slipped our moorings and eased away from the wharf. Ushuaia

soon diminished as we nosed eastward along the glorious Beagle

Channel. We passed rolling green banks forested with Antarctic

beech, while Chilean skuas, king cormorants, kelp gulls and South

American terns were in view from the ship.

Then it was inside for a quick pre-dinner drink in Anna’s bar, before

locating the dining rooms to enjoy the first of Chefs Gray and Tim’s

delicious dinners.

In soft evening light we passed Puerto Williams, Ushuaia’s rival for

el fin del mundo, the end of the world, located 50 kilometres east

along the Beagle Channel on the southern Chilean bank.

DAY 1 | Monday 10 February 2014

USHUAIA, BEAGLE CHANNEL

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A healthy complement of adventurers showed their faces at our

first breakfast, despite the Drake having thrown a few of its lumps

and bumps at us overnight. Numbers decreased throughout

breakfast, and unfortunately by mid-morning the companionways

were becoming more like the deserted streets in an old Hollywood

Western - one could almost see the tumbleweed being blown

along. And so our brave syringe-clad hero, Doctor Jamin, galloped

in on his trusty horse, Phenergen-onimo, to rescue those of us

suffering from the evil mal de mer.

The “Great Gumboot Giveaway” proved a popular affair with happy

customers climbing up from the lecture room shod in black, green

or blue rubber boots. It has been reported however that a few

customers were disappointed at Peter’s inability to provide them

with boots to match the colours of their jackets. Alas! It seems the

couture of Antarctica shall suffer greatly (although we are sure that

the penguins will not mind).

Our planned briefings were postponed for the day, with numbers of

upright passengers too low. And so it was “Naturalist Michael” who

took the earlier-than-planned slot to teach us all about seabirds.

Some of us even managed to spend significant portions of our

day on the bridge and keep an eye out for these feathered friends.

And certainly there was the delight of at least a dozen wandering

albatrosses, as well as black-browed, Royal and grey-headed

albatrosses for those up on the bridge early in the morning.

By lunch, it seems some of us had managed to get up and about.

And so discussions turned to coping mechanisms on a rolling ship:

1) Although the dramatically changing angle of the curtains

above your bunk may be fascinating, fight the urge to focus on

them for any length of time if you are feeling at all queasy;

2) Should your body continue to slide up, then down your bunk

ad infinitum, consider sewing yourself a pair of “elephant skin”

or Velcro pyjamas (with matching sheets);

3) Embrace the Polar Pioneer Waltz–often spied at the junctions

of companionways and stairways. Always wait for the ship to

roll one way before attempting to move in the same direction.

A few short side steps may assist in avoiding collision with

fellow passengers.

After an afternoon of napping, the seas calmed down enough for

us to enjoy Captain’s Welcome Drinks in the bar. Anna plied us with

her sangria, and our Chefs delighted our taste buds with canapés.

Howard introduced us to our lovely Captain Yury Gorodnik, and we

were able to toast him, his officers and crew. NA ZDAROVYA!

The evening carried on with a return to our full complement at

dinner, and in full voice to sing Kate a “Happy Birthday”. The cake

was shared around, and happily consumed by those of us with the

‘intel’ that it was indeed a cake of rich chocolate brownie. Delicious!

Late in the evening, we crossed the Antarctic Convergence, or Polar

Front–the natural boundary between the relatively warm sub-

Antarctic surface water and the cold Antarctic surface water–you

may have noticed a respective drop in temperature. This area is

one of great biological significance. It is nutrient-rich and influences

the distribution of plankton, fish, and birds. It also marked the

beginning of our journey into Antarctic waters.

DAY 2 | Tuesday 11 February 2014

DRAKE PASSAGE



Speed: 11 knots


Course: 155°

Wind Speed: calm

Wind Direction: N/A

Barometer: 993.3 hPa steady

Air Temp: 3.5°C

Sea Temp: 5°C

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Speed: 7.6 knots


Course: 99°

Wind Speed: 6 knots

Wind Direction: SSW

Barometer: 1006.6 hPa rising

Air Temp: 0°C

Sea Temp: 0°C

The fair sailing continued through the night and into the morning.

The dulcet tones of Howard awoke us gently in the morning to

announce the presence of fin whales to starboard.

After breakfast we assembled in the lecture and dining rooms

for important environmental and safety briefings from Michael,

Howard and Liz, ably assisted by Bob.

As the day progressed the wildlife sightings gathered momentum.

Fin whales were particularly numerous, with 20 or more animals

sighted. A number of sea birds, were sighted, including cape petrels,

wandering albatross, and black-browed petrels. We interrupted

the snoozing of an Antarctic fur seal, causing some alarm from

those observing from the bridge!

Shortly after a delicious pasta and salad lunch there was an exciting

announcement from the bridge-first iceberg sighted!

Then it was time for some vacuuming! Everyone gathered to

ensure that all of our gear was spick and span in keeping with

bio-security requirements. Never mind that one of us accidentally

vacuumed a USB stick (not mentioning any names)….

As the afternoon progressed the weather continued to improve

and first land since our departure was sighted –the South Shetland

Islands (and what a magnificent sight)! Snow capped peaks, volcanic

formations and low cloud combined to make a memorable sight.

Following the announcement that an evening landing was

imminent, excitement was heightened amongst all on-board the

Polar Pioneer.

When the ship finally anchored in the presence of whales and

penguins, we piled into Zodiacs and headed to Barrientos Island.

The conditions were fantastic, calm, sunny and relatively warm,

and we got good glimpses of the gentoo and chinstrap penguin

colonies as we motored past.

Once upon the island, the kayakers braved the elements and took

to the seas, whilst the rest of us climbed the ridge to enjoy the

views and the rising (almost) full moon above us. Thousands of

penguins greeted us, and we were graced with not one but three

species of seal on the beach: Weddell, Antarctic fur, and Southern

elephant seals.

What a great first encounter! I think it is safe to say that no one on

board will forget their first Antarctic landing.

DAY 3 | Wednesday 12 February 2014

DRAKE PASSAGE, BARRIENTOS ISLAND

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It was a cool, crisp air that greeted us in the morning, and a thick

blanket of grey cloud lay low over our heads. The towering ice

cliffs of Trinity Island provided a spectacular backdrop to Mikkelsen

Harbour, and dwarfed our tiny island destination of D’Hainaut. By

0800, the stern was buzzing with activity. Groups of dark, rubber-

clad divers mingled with ease among the candy coloured kayakers

(does anyone else think of “The Wiggles”?).

On the water, close-up views of the cracked and almost-toppling

icy towers delighted, as did the Antarctic terns that hovered above

our heads. Two leopard seals popped their heads above the water

to investigate those in Liz’s Zodiac, but quickly slipped back under

again. Kelp gulls called their familiar calls as we neared their rocky

nests where large brown fluffy chicks looked on. The kayakers were

accompanied by porpoising gentoo penguins as they first floated,

then paddled across the harbour.

The snorkellers had a successful morning, with delighted faces later

providing a summary of their discoveries. Big fish chasing little fish,

and giant limpets starred in an underwater miniature world. The

limpets were also reported to be a star in the diver’s “check-out”

dive.

Back on land, D’Hainaut island proved to be full of surprises for those

less fond of dry suits and numb cheeks. The skeletal remains of a

large whaler’s boat lay stranded on the cobbled beach, surrounded

by piles of whale bones and moulting gentoo penguins. At least

four Weddell seals lay snoozing in the snow displaying their mottled

and spotted grey bellies, and the long whiskers that graced their

content-looking faces. A few fur seals joined them, although they

were more inclined to treat us to some feisty barks before settling

down again for a nap. Naturalist Michael was gracious enough

to show us the way not to go back to the landing site, when he

plunged thigh deep through some ice and into a (reportedly) very,

very cold pond.

A feast was provided at lunchtime–warming soup, fresh bread,

chicken and salad were all consumed with gusto. And so with

bodies warmed and bellies filled, many of us then moved on to a

quick siesta.

By the time we had reached Hydrurga Rocks–our “Plan A” for

the afternoon, the northerly wind was blowing hard through a

thick fog. Horizontal snow completed the picture for a summer’s

afternoon in Antarctica! And so Expedition Leader Howard made

the call to continue south with “Plans B and C” in mind…

The fog and wind lifted throughout the afternoon, and so we

arrived in Wilhemina Bay in time to view massive glaciers, snow-

dusted mountains and several humpback whales. Mothers and

calves thrilled us with flipper slapping and fluke displays as they fed

on swarms of krill below the surface. Beautifully sculpted icebergs

completed the scene. The snow-covered bow and outer decks

were packed with cameras, binoculars and excited adventurers

until the light started to fade and dinner was called.

DAY 4 | Thursday 13 February 2014

MIKKELSEN HARBOUR; WILHEMINA BAY


Latitude: 64° 34’S

Speed: 9.6 knots

Longitude: 62° 16’W

Course: 328°

Wind Speed: 10 knots

Wind Direction: SE

Barometer: 999.9.6 hPa fallng

Air Temp: 2°C

Sea Temp: 0°C

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DAY 5 | Friday 14 February 2014

PETERMANN ISLAND; ARGENTINE ISLANDS (VERNADSKY)



Speed: 9.2 knots


Course: 213°

Wind Speed: calm

Wind Direction: N/A

Barometer: 986.9.6 hPa rising

Air Temp: 1°C

Sea Temp: 0°C

Waking to see the beauty of the Lemaire Channel outside one’s

porthole makes one wonder whether they have really woken at all,

and whether they are in fact floating in snowy dream. The morning

fog lifted like a stage curtain to reveal a narrow channel lined with

towering peaks standing like a snow-clad guard of honour.

It was an unforgettable morning, with views of soaring summits,

gigantic glaciers and ice floes inhabited by crabeater seals enjoyed

by all. If there was ever a picturesque spot on the Antarctic

Peninsula, this was it!

Shortly after breakfast, our Zodiacs “zoomed” and kayaks glided to

Petermann Island. While the divers enjoyed close encounters with

leopard seals, the kayakers cruised the coastline. Meanwhile the

landlubbers strolled amongst gentoo and Adélie colonies, and

admired historic sites. Some of us even enjoyed sliding down a

steep icy slope on our bums!

A quick stop for tasty pizzas was had, and the high octane action

continued with an afternoon anchorage in the Argentine Islands

amidst some light snow.

We boarded Zodiacs, or in some cases kayaks, and headed over

to the Ukrainian Research Station Vernadsky. We were taken on

an informative tour of facilities and given the opportunity to try

some home-distilled vodka. Originally the British “Faraday” station,

Vernadsky station was sold to the Ukrainians in 1996 for one pound

sterling. It is the oldest operational station in the Antarctic Peninsula

region, with continuous meteorological records, which have been

collected since 1947 until now.

Afterwards, the divers and snorkellers enjoyed the conditions at

the north channel of Winter Island. Colourful sponges, starfish,

and other interesting invertebrates were some of the benthic

inhabitants.

The kayakers headed out to check out some of the more interesting

‘bergs’, even spotting a mermaid amongst them! They were also

witness to a curious fur seal, and a cheeky crabeater seal that

wouldn’t allow his compadré to come up onto his ice floe!

Meanwhile, those who stayed ashore explored Wordie Hut, an

historic British hut previously known as “Base F”. Two handy “people”

(Michael and Liesel) working for the United Kingdom Antarctic

Heritage Trust (UKAHT) were to be found there, undertaking some

repair and restoration work on the hut.

In dimming evening light, some enjoyed a final iceberg cruise

around the islands before we all returned to our cosy ship. It was

not long before Anna’s convivial bar was pumping, with many a

passenger reflecting on what may have been our best day yet!

A perfect day was completed with a perfect sunset over the

Grandidier Channel.

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Speed: 7.2 knots


Course: 45°


Wind Direction: NE

Barometer: 977.3 hPa falling

Air Temp: 0°C

Sea Temp: 0°C

Mother Nature hurled her force at us today in the form of strong

winds and horizontal snow and sleet. The early morning visit to the

Fish Islands was postponed before most of us had even gotten out

of bed.

Never one to be easily defeated, Expedition Leader Howard later

threw his ‘gauntlet’ down and challenged Mother Nature. And

so, in brave expeditionary style 34 hardy souls ventured out for a

Zodiac cruise in the blustery weather. Ice needles pierced exposed

skin, and extremities chilled quickly. It seems however, that there is

a “fine line between pleasure and pain”, and this group saw naught

but the thrill and adventure in their morning excursion.

The Minnows, a group of small islands within the Fish Island

archipelago proved to be a sanctuary for groups of Adélie penguin

chicks, who huddled together in crèches. Almost fledged, these

chicks will soon be trying out their swimming and fishing ability as

they graduate to become the true seabirds they are.

Ice floes amongst the islands proved popular spots for both

expeditioners and crabeater seals alike. It was difficult to tell who

was looking at who, but it is certain that this close encounter with

these krill-loving marine mammals was a highlight of the day. So

too, the flocks of pure white snow petrels–described as the “fairies

of the south”-that flitted among the bergs and rocks.

Shortly before lunch, Naturalist Michael regaled us with the life

stories of elephant seals (affectionately known as “blubber slugs”),

crabeater, fur and leopard seals, as well as mind-boggling facts

about the larger mammals in these parts–the whales. Whoever

knew that a male Southern Right whale’s nether regions could

weight up to 500 kilograms!

After lunch, we all gathered on the bow to mark our crossing of the

Antarctic Circle at 66°33’S. Rugged up and huddled together like

penguins against the biting wind (and rolling ship), we celebrated

our crossing with champagne and merriment. Howard read

Captain’s Cook Oath, and Liz ceremoniously marked our foreheads

with the official Antarctic Circle stamp (aka the plug from her sink).

By the time we had reached our most southerly position for this

expedition, Mother Nature had turned up the wind dial even more,

and we were being belted with gusts up to 40 knots. A landing at

Detaille Island appeared unlikely, so we admired the island, it’s hut,

and surrounding bergs from the safety of the ship.

Our pre-dinner entertainment featured Howard, who described his

exciting involvement in the making of the film, “Happy Feet”. As

timely post-dinner entertainment, we danced and sang with the

very same Mumbles, Gloria, Lovelace and their Adélie amigos.

Outside, and as the sky darkened, Mother Nature continued

to prove her strength, and we all headed to bed with not only

increased respect for her, but hopes that she might show us some

grace on the ‘morrow.

DAY 6 | Saturday 15 February 2014

FISH ISLANDS; ANTARCTIC CIRCLE; DETAILLE ISLAND

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Speed: at anchor


Course: at anchor

Wind Speed: 6 knots

Wind Direction: SE


Air Temp: 4°C

Sea Temp: 0°C

After a welcome sleep in, a relaxed breakfast beckoned. By 1000

however, the leisurely pace of the morning had been replaced by

a frenzy of activity.

The kayakers got ready to roll (literally), the divers donned their dry

suits, and the rest began the lengthy process of adding layer upon

layer. Finally we were all out on the water and enjoying a morning

excursion to the Yalour Islands. The islands were named after an

Argentine officer of the ship Uruguay which rescued a party from

the Swedish Antarctic Expedition in November 1903.

Wind and rain didn’t deter our intrepid adventurers, and rather

added to the moody mystique of the islands. Whilst visitors on

land roamed the extensive ice cap, enjoying the antics of the

Adélie penguins and Antarctic terns, the divers were enjoying the

underwater scenery including fish, limpets and isopods.

The kayakers meanwhile were enjoying the somewhat challenging

conditions, deftly dodging icebergs and rocks through narrow

passes. Even a leopard seal popped up to witness the slick skills of

the kayak team! Fantastic!

A quick stop to re-fuel with a delicious seafood lunch and off we

were again to the most favoured playground of Pléneau Island.

Divers, snorkellers kayakers and Zodiac cruisers alike enjoyed the

calm conditions and memorable sights around Pléneau. Without

a doubt, the amazing iceberg formations were the star attractions.

Several sightings of crabeater seals, gentoo penguins fishing the

frigid waters, and a monumental calving of a giant iceberg added

to the afternoon’s delights.

Even after all of that activity, the day’s fun was far from over! The

call for ‘Polar Plungers’ was put out by Liz, and what a fantastic

response we had! A total of 22 guests braved the cold–equating

to almost half of you and perhaps the highest number of guest

yet- Bravo! Hardy plungers were greeted with warm towels, a shot

of vodka, and sent to the sauna to recuperate!

Once everyone had warmed up the good times continued out

on the bow. Our esteemed Chefs Gray and Tim had prepared

a fantastic BBQ spread of seal, penguin, and other fine Antarctic

game meats, accompanied by a delicious Glühwein prepared by

the effervescent Anna.

To honour their efforts, we all put on some silly hats and made

merry in the drizzle. Eventually though the rain forced us into the

bar, where we enjoyed an ice cream cone and perhaps another

drink or two, happily recounting the events of the day.

DAY 7 | Sunday 16 February 2014

YALOUR ISLANDS; PLéNEAU ISLAND

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Speed: 10.3 knots


Course: 48°


Wind Direction: ENE


Air Temp: 2°C

Sea Temp: 0°C

We woke to another of Howard’s enigmatic announcements over

the PA system… “Good morn..(crackle crackle). (Crackle crackle)

landing at (crackle) o’clock. (Crackle) sure to look out (crackle) the

(crackle) on the (crackle) side of the ship”. And, we woke to another

day of indescribable experiences in Antarctica.

The bright colours of the Union Jack beckoned us across the grey

waters of Port Lockroy to Goudier Island, and the home of the old

British “Base A” or Bransfield House. The base was built in 1944

during ‘Operation Tabarin’, a World War II expedition (named after

a Parisian nightclub) of which the purpose was to monitor potential

enemy activities on the Peninsula. The base is now a museum

run by the non-profit United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust

(UKAHT). Fat and fluffy gentoo penguin chicks greeted us with

nonchalance, as they huddled in crèche groups of various sizes.

A hungry skua paced along the outer edges of these potential-

penguin-prey-packs.

Inside Bransfield House, the museum shop and post office appeared

more like a Boxing Day sale with hoodies, badges, postcards, toy

penguins and books disappearing with lightening speed off the

shelves. The lounge accommodated those determined to send a

post card home to family and friends (and often, to themselves),

although cries of frustration were heard more than once as

addresses and postcodes were forgotten.

Elsewhere in the museum we were treated to a true 1950s time

capsule. We imagined what life might have been like living in such

a remote place, with hard scientific work to complete and still

hard work to do in the kitchen (especially given the limited and

somewhat uninspiring ingredients with which to concoct a meal).

Seal brain omelette, anyone?

Superlatives leapt from our mouths throughout our afternoon at

Paradise Harbour. On arriving at the Argentinean base, Almirante

Brown, a thick blanket of snow fell from the sky like someone had

split open a giant feather duvet above our heads. Once emptied,

it stopped as quickly as it had begun, and the magic was revealed.

From the wide span of rocky, snow-dusted mountains and blue-

white glaciers surrounding the bay, to the leopard and crabeater

seal-inhabited ice floes, we were gobsmacked. From the burning

muscles and panting lungs as we climbed the peak above Brown

Station, to the squeals of delight as we bum-slid down again, we

rejoiced. From the icy cracking and crashing of the glacier fronts,

to the deafening sounds of silence as we sat still with our sleeping

Zodiac engines, we were awakened. Minke whales tantalised us

with fleeting views of their dorsal fins, while cormorants performed

“fly-overs” in formations of military precision.

DAY 8 | Monday 17 February 2014

PORT LOCKROY; PARADISE HARBOUR

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Having sailed back to the South Shetland Islands, our morning

was spent inside a flooded (and active) volcanic caldera known as

Deception Island.

As Captain Yury and crew skilfully navigated through the narrow

passage known as Neptune’s Bellows, views of craggy cliffs, dark

ravines and multi-hued mountains were had.

After anchoring in Whalers Bay, we were soon (now expertly)

loading into the Zodiacs for a short shuttle to the steaming beach.

The “land lovers” took in the remarkable history, interesting geology

and moody atmosphere. Whilst the whale bones and buildings

are mostly relics of the Norwegian whaling operations in the early

1900’s, the site was also used by the British as a research station-

until volcanic eruptions in reasonably close succession forced its

closure.

Meanwhile, the divers and snorkellers entered the waters of the

protected eastern corner of the bay below Cathedral Crags. A

plethora of colourful benthic life was to be seen, including giant

sea spiders and anemones. A more disquieting sight was the

multitude of whale skeletons on the sea floor - reminders of an era

where these mighty mammals were hunted en masse for their oil

and economic value.

Our final landing was at Hannah Point, on Livingstone Island. This

landing would have impressed any budding “Doctor Doolittle”,

with various feathered and furry beasts seemingly piled upon one

another on the craggy cliffs.

Our final landing in Antarctica also prompted some reflection

on our voyage as a whole. We have all managed to create some

wonderful memories and make new friends. This was particularly

evident during our final evening in our “floating home away from

home”, as we gathered in the bar for ‘Captain’s Farewell Drinks’.

After a grand finalé dinner (complete with fancy, white table

cloths), the festivities continued in the bar. We chatted, laughed,

reminisced, and danced into the wee hours of the morning.

And so with our bags (reluctantly) packed, the Aurora staff and Polar

Pioneer crew wished us all a very safe onward journey. Perhaps we

will all meet again somewhere cold, sometime soon…


WHALER’S BAY (DECEPTION ISLAND); HANNAH POINT



Speed: 10.3 knots


Course: 48°


Wind Direction: ENE


Air Temp: 2°C

Sea Temp: 0°C

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“Antarctica left a restless longing in my heart beckoning towards

an incomprehensible perfection forever beyond the reach of

mortal man. Its overwhelming beauty touches one so deeply that

it is like a wound.”

—Edwin Mickleburgh, Beyond the Frozen Sea



Speed: at anchor


Course: at anchor

Wind Speed: 8 knots

Wind Direction: E


Air Temp: 4°C

Sea Temp: 0°C


FREI STATION, KING GEORGE ISLAND

Elephant Is Clarence Is

Gibbs Is

King George Is

Nelson Is

Greenwich Is

Livingston Is

Snow Is

D’Urville Is Joinville Is

Dundee Is

Seymore Is

Snowhill Is

Low Is

Deception Is

Trinity Is

Brabant Is

Anvers Is

James Ross Is

60ºW

55ºW

62ºS

64ºS

60ºW

1.  Ushuaia 2.  Aitcho Islands (Barrientos Is.) 3.  Mikkelsen Harbour 4.  Wilhemina Harbour 5.  Lemaire Channel 6.  Petermann Island 7.  Vernadsky Station (Argentine Is.) 8.  Fish Islands (ice floe) 9.  Antarctic Circle 10.  Detaille Island (no landing) 11.  Yalour Islands 12.  Pléneau Island (Plunge; BBQ) 13.  Port Lockroy (Goudier Is.) 14.  Paradise Harbour/Brown Station 15.  Whaler’s Bay (Deception Is.) 16.  Hannah Point 17.  King George Island

to Cape Horn & Ushuaia

4

6

To Fish Islands (8), Antarctic Circle (9) & Detaille Island (10)

1

2

5

7

Robert Is

Across the Circle 10 - 19 February 2014

Total Distance Travelled: 1452.3 nm

Most Southerly Point: 66°52’ S’ 66°48’ W

3

15

11

12

13

14

17

16

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DIVING AND SNORKELLING LOG BY STeve BoYD

DIVE MASTER: MARTIN MCGRATH

DIVE ASSISTANT: STEVE BOYD

DIVERS:

Thomas Bucher Michelle Buttfield

Tor Carlson Ross Coleman

Sheldon Coxon John Kelley

Darren Kirkbride Jeffrey Leach

Richard Murray Matti Ovaska

Michelle Smith Bernard Staehli

Leanne Van der Mewe

SNORKELLING GUIDE: PETER SZYSZKA

SNORKELLERS:

Paula Benz Rebekah Benz

Dale Byrne Marian Carroll

Peter Coxon Tracy Price

Ian Belcher Alex Newcombe

Kate Newcombe

DAY 1: DEPARTED USHUAIA AT 6PM.

DAY 2: DRAKE PASSAGE.

DAY 3: DRAKE PASSAGE & LATE ARRIVAL AT BARRIENTOS ISLAND.

DAY 4: MIKKELSEN HARBOUR

AM: Mikkelsen Harbour. Rocky inlet on southern side of Trinity Island.

Check-out dive for divers and snorkellers at D’Hainaut Island at Mikkelsen

Harbour. A beautiful dive site surrounded by towering ice cliffs. The dive

was a shallow dive and all divers completed their dives after overcoming

the shock of the very cold water. Several of the diver’s regulators also free

flowed.

PM: Afternoon heavy snow and fog unable to do second dive/snorkel at

Hydrurga Rocks so travelled to Wilhemina Bay. Conditions improved and

fantastic two hours cruising in bay, many massive glaciers, icebergs and

whales. Fantastic sunset. A great end to the day.

DAY 5: PETERMANN ISLAND; VERNADSKY STATION

AM: Fantastic sunrise again. Early morning cruise through Lemaire Channel

in great weather. Then travelled to Petermann Island where divers dived

near an iceberg with three leopard seals nearby. Snorkellers were some

distance away in a bay with Peter. Divers commented on the colorful

sponges and kelp they saw.

PM: Vernadsky Station. Four divers and two snorkellers entered water in

the north channel off Winter Island which is one of the Argentine Islands.

Divers reported a nice dive with big, colourful sponges. Then visit to

Vernadsky station and Wordie House, a historic British hut. After returning

to the ship we continued our journey south and experienced an amazing

amount of small icebergs. Around 01:30 the ship was forced to stop due to

‘fast ice’, and remain at this location until sunrise.

DAY 6: FISH ISLANDS; DETAILLE ISLAND

AM: The plan was an early start, 04:30 to dive/snorkel at the Fish Islands,

but due to the earlier ice conditions the ship was delayed. We eventually

reached the Fish Islands where we had hoped to dive/snorkel, but strong

winds and blizzards forced a change of plans, resulting in a Zodiac cruise

around the islands in blizzard conditions.

PM: The ship then continued, crossing the Antarctic Circle around 15:00

hours. We then continued to the most southerly landing, Detaille Island.

However due to 40-knot gusts, blizzards and a falling barometer, the

landing was again aborted. The ship then headed north to the Yalour

Islands.

DAY 7: YALOUR ISLANDS; PLéNEAU ISLAND

AM: The morning dive was at Yalour Islands where conditions were

challenging due to the choppy water. The divers saw fish, limpets and

isopods. Later that morning the ship then headed up the Penola Strait to

Pléneau Island and its nearby iceberg graveyard. After cruising through

the icebergs and seeing many seals on bergs, a dive site with two close

icebergs was chosen. All of the divers stated that the diving was tricky due

to the very strong current which also resulted in some of the divers being

forced to end their dive early. The divers observed the unique structure of

the icebergs below water. The divers also enjoyed snorkeling in the blue

water beside one of the icebergs.

DAY 8: PORT LOCKROY, GOUDIER ISLAND; SHAG WALL, PARADISE

HARBOUR

AM: Overnight the ship travelled to Port Lockroy where seven divers dived

along the side of Goudier Island. Soon after entering the water, a large

inquisitive leopard seal made its way to the divers. Some of the divers

photographed and videoed the seal with some choosing to snorkel

near the leopard seal at the end of the dive. The divers saw a variety of

sponges and fish. The second dive of the day was at Shag Wall in Paradise

Harbour. This dive was a wall dive with the wall covered in kelp with many

different coloured star fish attached. All divers enjoyed this dive and they

commented on the improved visibility. During the dive three crabeater

seals also swam along the dive site.

DAY 9: WHALERS BAY, DECEPTION ISLAND

AM: In the morning the divers and snorkellers enjoyed diving and

snorkeling in Whalers Bay, Deception Island. Both divers and snorkellers

saw an abundance of brittle starfish, sea urchins, colourful starfish and

whale bones with growth on them. Most of the divers stayed in the water

for between thirty to forty minutes.

25

KAYAKING LOG BY BoB PoWeLL

PADDLERS:

George Young Ray McKinnon

Judy Coyle Raelene Bowtell

Laraine Cook Christie Taylor

Jo Kinghorn Richard Mark

John Allen Donna Beckley

Ian Belcher

DAY 1: BEAGLE CHANNEL, NO PADDLES

DAY 2: DRAKE PASSAGE

DAY 3: SOUTH SHETLAND ISLANDS: BARRIENTOS ISLAND

PM: South Shetland Islands: Barrientos Island (10 Kayakers) After a relatively

calm day at sea the Polar Pioneer arrived at 6pm in the South Shetland

Islands in calm and sunny conditions. The kayak team, after going ashore

via zodiac, adjusted their kayaks and discussed safety issues on shore.

Ready to practice their paddling techniques, the team shoved into the

bay and explored the coastline for 1.5 hours. The dramatic sunset over the

jagged rocks and coastline was our backdrop for our first paddle and we

were led back to the Polar Pioneer by the rising moon. 5kms

DAY 4: TRINITY ISLAND

AM: Mikkelsen Harbour on Trinity Island: (10 Kayakers) We began our paddle

in cloudy conditions with a light 5-8 knot wind, which was ideal for our first

time entering the kayaks from the back deck. Once the team was safely in

our kayaks, we toured the coastline of the bay taking in the fur seals, gentoo

penguin colonies, and glacial fronts. We then circumnavigated D’Hainaut

Island, which had a small Argentinian Base, several blue whale skeletons,

and the remains of an old whaler’s boat. We then paddled outside of the

bay to explore a nearby rocky islet where we landed to take in the fur seals,

whale skeletons, and more glacial fronts. 12kms

PM: Hydrurga Rocks: Landing and kayaking cancelled due to high winds.

DAY 5: PETERMANN ISLAND ; ARGENTINE ISLANDS (VERNADSKY)

AM: Petermann Island: (10 Kayakers) Starting on the south end of the

island, we explored the coves of the eastern side of the island on our way

north. Once rounding the cape, the wind and 5 foot swell pushed our

boats south around icebergs and sea cliffs. After a strong paddle down

the coast we entered the narrow passage between Petermann Island, a

large grounded iceberg and several small islets. 8kms (sunny and 5-8

knots wind)

PM: Argentine Islands (Vernadsky): (5 Kayakers) In snowy and windy

conditions, our team paddled directly south to Vernadsky Station. After

surviving the Zodiac “tsunami” (Peter’s Zodiac) our team arrived 20

minutes later and toured the base. After completing the tour, we set out

to circumnavigate Winter Island via the narrow Skua Channel and Cornice

Channel. We then explored the “Three Little Pigs” and the “Buttons” along

with several magical grounded ice bergs. We also had the joy of watching

two “crabbies” play king of the ice floe before heading back to the ship

via a short visit with Pelagic Australis and an exploration of nearby Grotto

Island. 12kms

DAY 6: FISH ISLANDS; DETAILLE ISLAND.

AM: Fish Islands: Zodiac cruise due to high winds.

PM: Detaille Island: Cancelled due to high winds and stormy conditions.

DAY 7: YALOUR ISLANDS; PLENEAU ISLAND; BOOTH ISLAND

AM: Yalour Islands: We entered our kayaks from the ship in bumpy and

windy/rainy conditions (10-14 knots) and paddled into the lee of the

nearest grounded iceberg. From there we hopped between grounded

icebergs on our way to the Yalour Islands. Once in the lee of the main

island we explored the small islets and grounded icebergs to the south.

Picking our way through the narrow slots and using the islands to shield

us from the wind we had a remarkably rewarding paddle and enjoyed

visiting the many small Adelie penguin colonies, the countless Antarctic

terns, and even the elusive leopard seal. 8kms; 6 kayakers

PM: Pleneau and Booth Island and the Iceberg graveyard: (9 kayakers) In

the lee of Booth Island, the kayak team travelled downwind in snowy and

cloudy conditions along the coastline exploring several large Icebergs that

were grounded near shore. We then paddled west toward Pléneau Island

where we explored the rocky coastline, gentoo penguin colonies and

several curious Weddell seals. After an extensive poke-around, we pointed

our kayaks into the Iceberg graveyard where we found many surprising

azure blue bays and “beaches.” Our 3.5-hour paddle went by in a flash as

we were awed and amazed by the endless shapes, colors, and textures.

Active Weddell seals also surprised us around many turns by porpoising

along side our kayaks. 14kms

DAY 8: PORT LOCKROY; PARADISE BAY

AM: Port Lockroy: (2 Kayakers). Most of the kayak team elected to take the

morning off in preparation for the afternoon paddle (and also to recover

from the evening’s festivities!). George and Bob pushed off from the ship

in cloudy and wet conditions to explore Port Lockroy (and the two yachts)

before journeying down the Peltier Channel and passing Thunder Glacier!

11kms

PM: Paradise Bay: (7 Kayakers). We had spectacular conditions (calm and

cloudy) as we paddled from the ship toward Waterboat Point. In the first

kilometer of our paddle the nearby glacier calved massive icebergs setting

the tone for the excursion. We wove our way amongst the icebergs, bergy

bits, and brash ice as large snowflakes floated by. Weddell seals provided

entertainment before we landed on a small islet. A lone lost elephant seal

welcomed us ashore before we climbed to the top to take in the view of

Paradise Bay. On our return paddle to Almirante Brown Station we had to

navigate through the thick brash ice before finally stepping foot on the

Antarctic continent. 14.3kms

DAY 9: DECEPTION ISLAND

AM: Deception Island: (8 Kayakers). On our last paddle we began our trip

in Whalers Bay. Calm conditions allowed our team to paddle through

Neptune’s Bellows and the outside of the island. After paddling between

a large tower and the cliff-lined coast we made our way to the bay below

Neptune’s Window. We enjoyed wonderful views of Bailey’s Head before

returning to Polar Pioneer. 6kms

27

polar plunge

29

BBQ ON THE BOW

BIRD SPECIES LOG

BIRD SPECIES FEBRUARY10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Kelp Goose X

Gentoo Penguin X X X X X

Chinstrap Penguin X X X

Adelie Penguin X X X

Macaroni Penguin X

Magellanic Penguin X

Wandering Albatross X X

Royal Albatross X

Black-browed Albatross X X

Grey-headed Albatross X X

Light-mantled Albatross

Northern Giant Petrel X X

Southern Giant Petrel X X X X X X X X

Antarctic Petrel

Cape Petrel X X X X

Snow Petrel X

Southern Fulmar X

Antarctic Prion X X

White-chinned Petrel X X

Wilson's Storm-Petrel X X X X X X X

Black-bellied Storm-Petrel X X

Imperial Cormorant X

Rock Cormorant X

Antarctic Cormorant X X X X X X

Snowy Sheathbill X X X X

Chilean Skua X

Brown Skua X X X

South Polar Skua X X X X X

Kelp Gull X X X X X X X X

Dolphin Gull X

Antarctic Tern X X X X X X

South American Tern X

31

MAMMAL SPECIES FEBRUARY10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Antarctic Fur Seal X X X X X X

Southern Elephant Seal X X

Crabeater Seal X X X X

Weddell Seal X X X

Leopard Seal X X X X X

Minke Whale X X

Fin Whale X

Humpback Whale X X X X

Southern Bottlenose Whale X

MAMMAL SPECIES LOG

ExPEDITIONERSJohn Allen

Donna Beckley

Ian Belcher

Paula Benz

Rebekah Benz

Raelene Bowtell

Robyn Bradshaw

Janet Brooksbank

Thomas Bucher

Michelle Buttfield

Dale Byrne

Tor Carlson

Marian Carroll

Robin Carter

Rebecca Chin

Ross Coleman

Laraine Cook

Charles Copeland

Michelle Cossor

Helen Cowan

Sheldon Coxon

Peter Coxon

Judy Coyle

Heinz Francke

Glenys Greenwood

John & Jean Kelley

Jo Kinghorn

Darren Kirkbride

Alexandra Kotecki

Jeffery Leach

Beate Maassen-

Francke

Richard Mark

Ray McKinnon

Domenic Murabito

Richard Murray

Alex & Kate

Newcombe

Gayle Oddy

Matti Ovaska

Tracy Price

Bruce Reineker

Mark Seldon

Michelle Smith

Bernard Staehli

Christie Taylor

Terrell Taylor

Sue & David Thomas

Dana Trtica

Leanne Van der

Merwe

George Young

Arielle Zagury

33

Expedition Leader: Howard Whelan

Assistant Expedition Leader: Liz Pope

Hotel Manager: Anna Taylor

Naturalist & Lecturer: Michael Shepard

Doctor: Jamin Mulvey

Head Chef: Gray Kirkpatrick

Sous Chef: Tim Moore

Kayaking Master: Bob Powell

Dive Master: Martin McGrath

Dive Assistant: Steve Boyd

Snorkelling Guide: Peter Szyszka

General Hand: Tina Entwistle

Master: Yury Gorodnik

Chief Mate: Dmitry Chuvakov

Second Mate: Yury Matrosov

Third Mate: Vadim Markovskii

Radio Operator: Sergey Polyak

Chief Engineer: Evgeniy Pavlov

Second Engineer: Pavel Voronov

Third Engineer: Evgeny Petukhov

Fourth Engineer: Yurii Horobets

Electrical Engineer: Grigorii Surmin

Boatswain: Sergei Andronov

Able Seaman: Valerii Riabtcev

Sergey Ushakov

Eduard Skarina

Motorman Vladimir Zhukov

Igor Tikhonov

Head Stewardess: Elena Shtreit

Stewardess: Diana Babaeva

Elena Bezgodova

Irina Lurkina

Liubov Andronova

Laundry Stewardess: Alona Usatenko

Russian Crew Chef: Viktor Kolomeetc

Steve Boyd

Rebecca Chin

Jamin Mulvey

Kate Newcombe

Matti Ovaska

Liz Pope

Bob Powell

Michael Shepard

Peter Szyszka

Howard Whelan

ExPEDITION STAFF POLAR PIONEER CREW PHOTO CREDITS

Adventure with usIntimate, educational, small group voyages to some of the world’s wildest and most remote destinations, aboard quality expedition vessels.

Antarctica & South GeorgiaProtected waterways beneath spectacular, glacier-draped mountains, penguins, seals, whales, historic sites and scientific stations.

european ArcticPolar bears roam pack ice for seals, walrus and whales. Deep fjords and towering icebergs meet colourful tundra and fossil-rich plains.

Alaska’s Inside PassageWildlife-rich fjords, calving glaciers and humpback playgrounds. Majestic forests filled with black and brown bears, wolves and moose.

ecuador & GalapagosAmazon’s rainforest tribes and sacred cultures, Andean volcanoes and shorelines of marine iguanas, giant tortoises and sea lions.

Kimberley CoastAustralia’s wildest frontier boasts terracotta cliffs andancient rock paintings. Island hop in search of turtles,crocodiles and whales.

Our other destinations include: Russian Coast, Papua New Guinea, Patagonia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan.

www.auroraexpeditions.com.au

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Across the Antarctic Circle - auroraexpeditions.com.au