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Driver Handbook
Acadia Region PCA – Version 1.2 2018 2
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Dear Acadia Region Driver Education Participant:
This handbook outlines everything you’ll need to know to have a successful track event. It is
intended as an overview for drivers of all levels, but was written primarily with newcomers in
mind. To this end, the handbook is broken into four sections, each focusing on different levels of
knowledge and experience.
There is a lot of material here and you aren’t expected to memorize it before you arrive – there
isn’t a test. We have classroom sessions and in-car instruction to cover the fundamentals of
performance driving.
You should be familiar with the Section 1 materials relating to preparing for the event,
particularly the sections regarding mandatory requirements and safety. Read through Section 2,
it will help you understand the classroom materials more easily. And help make sense of what
we are showing you on track.
You will find a number of points repeated throughout the handbook – they are important.
This handbook could not have been pulled together without information from many sources.
We extend our thanks to the following PCA Regions: Upper Canada, Rennsport, Metro New York
Reisentoter, Lone Star, Rocky Mountain, San Diego, North Country, and Peach State.
Section 1 – Introduction to Acadia Region Driver Education Events
Designed for those who are new to track events and for experienced DE drivers who are new to
Acadia Region events. It covers how to prepare before you come to the event and what to do on
the day of the event. It gives an overview of what to expect when you get to the track; including
who the people are, the facility layout, what the daily schedule will look like, preparing to drive,
track basics, and general track etiquette.
Section 2 – Key Driving Concepts
Designed specifically for beginners and novices, this section reviews the fundamentals of track
or street driving. It is also an excellent refresher for advanced students looking to review. We go
over: the importance of smoothness, using vision correctly; plus key components of braking,
steering, and accelerating; the basics of cornering, and car dynamics.
Section 3 – Advanced Concepts and Techniques
Designed for more advanced students, this section assumes that the driver has mastered the
basics of track driving and wishes to improve his driving by learning new techniques and possibly
upgrading his equipment.
Section 4 – Reference Materials
For all drivers, this section includes: a glossary, personal checklists and tips, a list of common
instructor commands and observations, sign-off and promotion criteria, and a description of
One Lap of Atlantic Motorsport Park.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section 1 - Intro to Acadia Region Driver Education -- 1
What is Driver Education?---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1
Objectives for Beginning Driver Education Participants ------------------------------------2
Commitment to SAFETY------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2
DE Event Administration------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3
Getting Registered--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------3 DE Contact Info ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------3 Last Minute Registration -----------------------------------------------------------------------------3 Cancellation ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------3 Waivers ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------3 Event Organization-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------4
Mandatory Safety Equipment ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 4
Helmet -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------4 Fire Extinguisher----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------5 Clothing----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------5
Pre-event Preparation--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
Mandatory Technical Inspection -------------------------------------------------------------------6 Physical and Mental Preparation ------------------------------------------------------------------6 Getting to the Track ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------7 Etiquette on Local Roads------------------------------------------------------------------------------7 The Track Facilities ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------8 Car Numbers ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------8 What Do I Need to Bring? -----------------------------------------------------------------------------9
The Program ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10
What to Expect----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10 The First Day at the Track-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10 Preparing to Drive------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 14 Event Regulations------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24 Responsibility ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 25 Moving Up----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26
Section 2 - Key Driving Concepts ---------------------------------------------- 27
Fundamental Principles ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27
Smoothness --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27 Vision----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28
In-car Basics-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29
Seating --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29 Seatbelts------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30 Steering-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30 Shifting--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31 Throttle Control --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31 Braking -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32 Nannies -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33
Driving the Track-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34
All About ‘The Line’ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34 Anatomy of a Corner --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34
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Working a Corner------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38 Types of Corners--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 41
The Dynamics of Car Control----------------------------------------------------------------------- 44
Contact Patch ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44 Slip Angle------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44 The Friction Circle ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 46 Slide------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 47 Understeer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 48 Oversteer ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 48 Dynamic Weight Transfer -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 50 Momentum, Feel & Rhythm ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 51 Driving in the Rain ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 52
Performance Driving Wisdom --------------------------------------------------------------------- 53
Section 3 - Advanced Concepts and Techniques -------------------------- 54
Conflicting Instructor Advice----------------------------------------------------------------------- 54
More on Vehicle Dynamics ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 55
Complex Weight Transfer -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 55 Polar Moment of Inertia ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 57
Advanced Techniques-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 58
Heel and Toe Downshifting------------------------------------------------------------------------- 58 Trail Braking------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 60 Left Foot Braking-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 62 Reducing Blind Spots--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 63
Safety & Performance Modifications------------------------------------------------------------ 65
Tires ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 65 Brake Pads---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 65 Brake Fluid --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 66 Suspension Settings ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 67 Harnesses, Seat and Roll Bar/Cage -------------------------------------------------------------- 68 Driving Shoes ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 68 Driving Gloves ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Driving Suit --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69 Head and Neck Restraint Device------------------------------------------------------------------ 69
Section 4 - Reference Materials ----------------------------------------------- 71
Glossary of Terms------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 71
Steering and Handling ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 71 Engine and Transmission -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 72 Tires and Brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 73 Road and Track---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 74
Personal Checklist and Tips for DE --------------------------------------------------------------- 76
Instructor Language and Observations --------------------------------------------------------- 79
Sign-off and Promotion Criteria------------------------------------------------------------------- 80
Sign-off Criteria --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 80 Promotion Criteria ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 81
One Lap of Atlantic Motorsport Park------------------------------------------------------------ 83
Section 1 - Intro to Acadia Region Driver Education
Welcome to Acadia Region PCA’s Driver Education Program. We hope you enjoy what we have
to offer.
Porsche Club of America has been offering performance driver education across North America
for decades. Acadia Region, as a member region of PCA, has been offering its Driver Education
Program at Atlantic Motorsport Park since 2005.
This portion of the handbook is intended to introduce you to our program and answer most of
the common questions we encounter.
What is Driver Education?
Acadia Region PCA’s Driver Education events are an opportunity to experience the performance
of your Porsche in a safe, structured and controlled teaching environment. Participants learn
advanced car control techniques and experience driving in its purest form. Our events are about
increasing your driving knowledge, and improving your skills through exposure, instruction, and
practice in a non-competitive environment.
Acadia Region Driver Education events are not racing, preparation for racing, or a competition of
any kind. Timing of any sort is forbidden. Any conduct considered by Acadia Region to be either
unsafe or inconsistent with the spirit or purpose of the Driver Education Program will not be
permitted.
One of the first things you will learn is that the limits to how you drive are yours and not your
car’s. You'll find you have to push yourself harder to approach the limits of your cars handling.
With your instructor beside you, you will learn to recognize these limits and to control the car as
it approaches them at relatively low speed.
The DE experience will make you an overall safer driver by teaching driving skills and techniques,
which enhance accident avoidance capabilities through improved situational awareness and car
control. What you learn can save your life.
On top of the learning experience DE events are great social events. They provide an
opportunity to get together with a diverse group of people who share a common passion –
Porsches.
Acadia Region PCA – Version 1.0 2015 2
Objectives for Beginning Driver Education Participants
Performance driving is 85% technique and 15% talent. The Acadia Region PCA Driver Education
program is designed to give the student a solid foundation in the technique. The principles
taught form the basic building blocks from which all driving skills are derived. Students are
taught safe driving skills on an enclosed motorsports park under the supervision of an instructor.
Some of the topics covered are:
• The importance of smoothness
• Use of your vision, looking ahead, and the importance of peripheral vision
• How to drive the proper line
• Proper braking, shifting and cornering techniques
• Proper seating, grasping of steering wheel, use of mirrors, etc.,
• Passing zones, no-passing zones
• Use of passing signals, your responsibilities in both passing a car or being passed
• General vehicle dynamics and car control,
• Motorsport park safety
Commitment to SAFETY
SAFETY is the key word at our events. It is the main concern of Acadia Region and PCA. We want
you to feel as strongly about it as we do. With your safety and the safety of the instructors and
track workers in mind, the following policies will be enforced each event on every person and
car at the track:
• Anyone deemed to be conducting themselves or operating their vehicle in an unsafe
manner, either on track or off, is subject to removal from the remainder of the event
without reimbursement.
• Any driver who causes damage to another participant's car will be removed from the
remainder of the event without reimbursement.
• NO ALCOHOL OR CONTROLLED SUBSTANCES CAN BE CONSUMED BY ANY PARTICIPANT,
OR BY ANY PERSON AT THE SITE OF THE EVENT DURING THE HOURS OF EVENT
OPERATION (generally 6:30AM to 5:00PM). This is not intended to prevent participants
from taking medication as long as it does NOT impair the person's ability to control a
vehicle at speed.
• This is not a competitive event. Any race style driving is strictly prohibited.
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DE Event Administration
Getting Registered
You can register through www.clubregistration.net . Use the search function on the site to search for Acadia Region PCA events and select the event from there. You will be asked to complete a personal profile that includes your personal information, details about your car,
your driving experience, and emergency contact information.
Payment is via PayPal. Your registration is not considered complete until payment is received.
DE Contact Info
Any additional questions can be referred to any of the following via our
website: Registrar – Joe Treen
DE Chair – Don Kyte & Joe Treen
Chief Instructor – George Cooper
Last Minute Registration
Provided the event is not full, registrations will be accepted up to five days before the event.
Keep in mind that you must have a technical inspection completed to participate and arranging
this can take several days.
Cancellation
You may cancel for a full refund up to two weeks prior to the event. Cancellation within the two
weeks, but more than one week prior to the event will result in a 50% refund. There will be no
refunds for cancellations within one week of the event.
Our events run rain or shine, but rare unforeseen circumstances may require cancellation of the
event. In this case full refunds will be available. However, there will be no refunds for an event
cancelled after cars have been on the track, or for participants who do not come to the track
when an event is not started.
Waivers
Acadia Region requires participants to sign two waivers. The first is our club waiver available on
our website (www.acadiaregionpca.org) that must be signed and returned to the registrar prior
to the event. The second is our insurance waiver that must be signed by everyone entering
Atlantic Motorsport Park. Minors entering the facility must have the waiver signed by a parent
or guardian.
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Event Organization
You will receive a detailed schedule prior to the event, but generally we run something like this:
Facility opens 6:45
Check-in 7:00
Tech Line 7:30 – 8:00
Driver’s Meeting 8:30
Track & Classroom 9:00 – 5:00
We break for an hour at lunch and take ten-minute breaks in the morning and afternoon to
relieve our marshals. Lunch and beverages will be provided. However, if you have special dietary
requirements we encourage you to bring what you need.
Participants will be separated into run groups based on their experience level. Typically, each
group will have four 20-minute runs per day. This may sound short, but track driving is physically
and mentally taxing, particularly at AMP. You will be exhausted.
Novice and intermediate students will always have an in-car instructor assigned to them for the
event. These groups are required to attend classroom sessions.
Mandatory Safety Equipment
Helmet
For the 2018 Driving Season, each driver participating in our Driver-Ed program must wear a properly fitted helmet that conforms to one or more of the following Safety Helmet Standards:
• SNELL Foundation Helmets rated: SA2010, SA2015 (recommended) and M2010,M2015
• British Standards Institute (BSI): BS6658-85 type A/FR
• SFI Foundation Inc. Helmets rated: SFI 31.1A, SFI 31.2A
Helmets built to the 2005 standard are no longer acceptable for DE events. If you are driving a
vehicle with a roll cage an SA helmet is required. Helmets with only a DOT sticker are not
acceptable.
To provide the best possible protection a helmet should be replaced after approximately 5-8
years, as the materials used in their construction degrade with time regardless of use. Sunlight
or extensive use may accelerate the process. If a helmet is subjected to even moderate impacts
(e.g. dropping on the ground) then its protective capability may be compromised. "M" rated
helmets in particular need only be designed for a single impact and their use thereafter is not
advisable. Damage to the internal shell may not be visible on the external shell. For this reason
buying a used helmet is strongly discouraged. Bell helmet ads once used the tag line, ‘If you
have a $10 head, buy a $10 helmet’. Our advice is the same.
Locally, any motorcycle shop should be able to set you up with an acceptable helmet. Beware of
buying helmets on-line unless you have tried on a helmet of that brand. Helmet fit is very
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important and different brands use different sizing and fit different head shapes. Not all same-
sized helmets feel the same and by trying them on, you will be able to make a much better
choice. Whether you chose an open-face or full-face style is up to you. (Note: none of the hybrid
helmets with the flip up face shield meet Snell standards)
Modern helmets can be a little claustrophobic, if you are not used to wearing one. Your first
track event is not the time to find you are uncomfortable. We suggest that you practice wearing
your helmet at home before coming to the event.
Fire Extinguisher
A properly installed fire extinguisher is strongly recommended, however not required. A 2.5 lb or larger ABC (or appropriate classification) fire extinguisher needs to be mounted on
a metal-to-metal support in the car.
Several options exist for doing this, depending on your car. Consult your mechanic or the
Internet for fitment options. One very popular method is to use a purpose-built fire extinguisher
mount that fits under the existing seat bolts on the driver or passenger seat. Such brackets do
not involve making any holes in your car.
Clothing
Participants must wear rubber soled, natural upper shoes, long pants, and a long sleeved shirt
(natural, not synthetic fibres), or wear an approved fire resistant driving suit.
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Pre-event Preparation
Mandatory Technical Inspection
Your car must go through a Technical Inspection before every DE event. This is an important part
of your preparation and you must bring the completed Tech form with you to the event.
The inspection is similar to a provincial motor vehicle inspection (MVI) with the added
requirement that your brake fluid must be less than six months old and your brakes must be
bled prior to the event.
The required tech inspection form is available on our website and must be signed by a licensed
automotive technician. Print or photocopy the form, fill-in the top section, and present it with
your car at the inspection station. Each event requires a separate tech form and the car must be
inspected no more than 2 weeks prior to the event. If you are in any doubt about who may tech
your car, contact the DE Registrar.
Occasionally we encounter participants who do other events within the two-week window and
wish to save some time and money by doing the tech inspection for both events simultaneously.
We cannot accept tech inspections done prior to a previous event. The wear and tear of that
event may have created issues with the vehicle, particularly in the area of brake and tire wear.
Safety is our main concern and vehicle condition is a key element of it.
You can save yourself some stress by arranging your tech inspection well in advance of the DE
event, and by getting any remedial work done early. Don’t leave yourself open to
disappointment by leaving the inspection to the last minute; only to find you need some work
done that may mean you miss the event.
Put your completed form in your glove box and leave it there. If you arrive at the event
without it, you will not be permitted on the track.
Physical and Mental Preparation
There are a number of things you must do to be physically and psychologically ready to
participate. First and foremost is to be well rested. Try to get a good night’s sleep and minimize
the partying the night prior to your event. If you are taking any medication, be sure to discuss
with your doctor or pharmacist whether this medication will affect your driving. If so, you
cannot be an active participant in the event.
Be sure to dress comfortably and appropriately for the weather conditions and driving
requirements. You will spend a great deal of time outside and subject to the sun, wind and rain.
It is very easy to get windburn, sunburn and even chills on cold rainy days. Dehydration will be
an issue regardless of weather, so be sure to drink plenty of fluids.
Porsche Club events have specific requirements for acceptable driver clothing and equipment.
Synthetic materials like nylon for clothes and shoes are not permitted. Long sleeve shirts and
long legged pants made of natural fibres are required. Thin-soled laced shoes, which permit
pedal feel, are recommended. Boots, sandals and loose fitting shoes are not permitted. Choose
clothing that is comfortable and non-restrictive.
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Getting to the Track
Atlantic Motorsport Park is located approx. 60km north of Halifax, via Highway 102
From Halifax:
• Take Exit 9 off Highway 102 toward Shubenacadie
• At the STOP sign turn left onto the old highway into Shubenacadie
• Drive roughly 5km into Shubenacadie
• In Shubenacadie take the first major left (just past the gas station and Yummies Deli )
onto West Indian Road (watch for the sign: Indian Brook/Mill Village/McPhee's Corner).
• Drive 2.6km, bear right (sign: Motorsport Park).
• Drive 2km, turn right (sign: North Salem/Atlantic Motorsport Park).
• After 2.6km, the road will change to gravel. Drive on gravel road for another 2.2km.
• Turn right onto Racetrack Road, just before large barn (sign: Atlantic Motorsport Park).
• Follow this road (1.2km) until you reach Atlantic Motorsport Park.
• After the gates the road veers right toward the paddock
From Truro:
• Take Exit 10 off Highway 102, and head into Shubenacadie (2.3km).
• At the stop sign, turn hard right onto West Indian Road (watch for the sign: Indian
Brook/Mill Village/McPhee's Corner).
• Drive 2.6km, bear right (sign: Motorsport Park).
• Drive 2km, turn right (sign: North Salem/Atlantic Motorsport Park).
• After 2.6km, the road will change to gravel. Drive on gravel road for another 2.2km.
• Turn right onto Racetrack Road, just before large barn (sign: Atlantic Motorsport Park).
• Follow this road (1.2km) until you reach Atlantic Motorsport Park.
• After the gates the road veers right toward the paddock
Note: The sign says Racetrack Road. GPS may need to have Creighton Road entered.
Etiquette on Local Roads
AMP is in the middle of farm country with narrow country roads. We need to be good
neighbours and not encourage hostility to the existence of the track. Please do not come
blasting at high speed to the track or away from it.
The local RCMP know when track activities are happening, so beware.
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The Track Facilities
Facilities at Atlantic Motorsport Park are limited. There is no restaurant service, but we provide
lunch plus some snacks and beverages. If you have special dietary requirements, we encourage
you to bring what you need.
There is no fuel available at the track, so arrive with as full a tank as possible. On weekdays, the
Esso station at Exit 9 should be open at 6:00 am, but don’t count on it. The Enfield Big Stop is
always open. It may be possible to make a gas run to Shubenacadie at lunchtime. It’s about 15
minutes away.
Car Numbers
Car numbers are assigned when the student instructor pairings are made. Vinyl stick-on
numbers will be supplied in your package at check-in.
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What Do I Need to Bring?
First and foremost you need to be sure you have your completed Technical Inspection form and
your helmet.
Make sure you arrive at the track with as close to a full tank of gas as you can get. The Irving Big
Stop in Enfield is always open. The Esso just off Exit 9 opens at 6:00 weekdays and 7:00 on
weekends. There may be sufficient time at lunch to make a run to Shubenacadie for gas.
Other items to consider are:
• Tire gauge
• The key or special socket for your wheel locks
• Small assortment of tools, flashlight
• Torque wrench if you have one
• Air pump
• Small jack - the factory one or a small shop jack.
• Small piece of wood to place under jack.
• A folding chair.
• Work gloves or some hand cleaner and a rag can come handy.
• Camera
• Glass cleaner and paper-towels to clean windshield.
• Extra engine oil
• Extra brake fluid
• A cap
• Sunglasses.
• Sunscreen
• Bug spray
• Rain wear
• A change of dry clothes
• Warm clothes no matter if the weather forecast says hot or not. Prepare for the worst.
• Small plastic bins for your stuff
• Small tarp
• If you have special dietary requirements bring what you need
Jacks, hand tools, torque wrenches, and air pumps can most likely be borrowed at the track if
necessary. Personal items, extra oil and brake fluid are up to you.
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The Program
What to Expect
Your first track event can be an intense experience and a degree of apprehension is normal.
You’ll worry about a lot of things: can I do this?, Will I break my baby? … Try to put these things
out of your mind, relax and have fun. Our events are structured to help you learn at your own
pace, in a relaxed, fun, and above all safe way.
There is a lot of material to absorb at your first event. No one expects you to get it all right
away; no one else did. Your instructor may make it look easy, but it’s taken them many hours to
get there.
Everyone comes in with a different skill level. Don’t worry about it. Our instructors are
experienced and will adapt to your level. No one is going to push you beyond your limits.
A day at the track is physically and mentally tiring. Look after yourself, rest when you can, stay
hydrated, wear sunscreen.
We like to keep our events as casual as we can because they are as much a social event as a
learning experience. PCAers are a friendly approachable bunch. Talk with people and ask lots of
questions. You will probably learn as much talking with people in the paddock, as you will in
class or on track.
The First Day at the Track
Arriving at the Track
Get to the track early and with a full tank of fuel. The track typically opens at around 6:45AM
and that is a good time to be there.
At the entrance to the track, you will need to sign an insurance waiver and receive a wristband
indicating that you have signed. Any guests with you will need to sign the waiver and receive a
wristband. Minors will need to have the waiver signed by a parent or guardian. If family or
friends will be turning up later in the day, they will also need to sign a waiver.
Enter the track paddock area and find a parking place. Just look where other cars are parked.
Leave adequate room around the cars to allow for trailer loading, belongings on the ground, etc.
Check-in/Registration
At the Check-in/Registration desk, you will receive a package with materials for the event
including: a schedule, student instructor assignments, vinyl group letters and car number, and
an instructor evaluation form.
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The Schedule
A DE is a very busy event with track and classroom sessions going simultaneously. We have a
tight schedule and we make every effort to stay as close to it as possible.
You will receive a schedule in your Registration package. It is your responsibility to pay attention
to the schedule for your run group and be where you are supposed to be on time.
To help you, there will be schedule announcements over the PA system. Don’t rely too heavily
on it, as it can be difficult to hear at times.
To help with the schedule we will be using a procedure called hot tracking, where cars for the
ongoing run group are released while the current group is coming off the track.
Trackside Safety Inspection – ‘Tech Line’
Each morning of the event your vehicle must pass a Trackside Tech Inspection. It is a quick
inspection to be sure your vehicle is ready for the track. It is not a substitute for the pre-event
inspection.
The Tech Line opens at 7:30 am and closes at 8:00 SHARP. Late arrivals will be tech'd at the
convenience of the tech committee, which means you will miss track time if you are late.
Preparation for Tech
You will need to do a few things to prepare for Tech.
• Remove all loose objects from your car:
− Passenger Compartment: Mats, radar detector, Cell phone, CDs, weapons, etc.
− Glove Box: Empty or locked.
Figure 1 - Facilities Map
PADDO
CKSTUD
ENT PAR
KING
STUDENT PAR
KING
PARKIN
G
FROM T
RACK EN
TRANC
E
STAGING
TO PIT &
STAGIN
G
FROM P
IT & STA
GING
PIT LAN
E
TURN 11
TURN 1
TECH B
UILDING
HILCHIE BUI
LDING
CLASSR
OOM
WASHRO
OMS
PIT IN
MARSHAL STAND&
TOWER
PIT OUT
START/FINISH
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− Luggage Compartment: Tool kits, air compressor, oil, spare parts,
etc. Leave spare tire in place.
• Remove any wheel covers and slip-on wheel locks.
• Place your pre-event technical inspection form under your wiper
• Put your helmet in the car
• Check wheel lug tightness.
Trackside Safety Inspection – ‘Tech Line’
• Stay with your car.
• Your car will be checked for:
1. Loose articles 5. Lug nut tightness
2. Brake lights 6. Fire extinguisher size and mounting
3. Brake fluid level 7. Helmet - Snell 2010 or later
4. Tight gas cap
• If your car failed the pre-event safety inspection for this event, you may be directed to a
separate line where the defect plus the above will be checked.
• At the end of the tech line, you will receive your run group sticker
• The tech line will be closed at 8:00 a.m. SHARP
Event Personnel
Key people ensuring our events run smoothly are:
Co-Track Chairs – Don Kyte & Joe Treen
Chief Instructor – Track – George Cooper
Registrar – Joe Treen
Starter – Various volunteers
Marshals/Corner Workers
Event Control/Chief of Course
EMTs
All of the many volunteers
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Driver’s Meeting - MANDATORY
Each morning after Tech there will be a Driver’s Meeting in the Tech Building. Attendance is
mandatory. All drivers and instructors gather for this meeting to be told about the track, any
special conditions for the day, the location of the passing zones, how the flags are to be used,
etc.
In the event of changing track conditions or other issues there may be additional meetings.
At Registration you received a package containing the student instructor pairings. After the
meeting, if they haven’t found you already, your instructor will meet with you so you can get
familiar with each other, your vehicle, and your objectives for the event.
Classroom Sessions - MANDATORY
Novice (Green Group) and Intermediate (Yellow Group) will have classroom sessions each day in
the Hilchie Building. Please pay attention to your schedule and be on time for your class.
Novice classes provide a structured introduction to performance driving, with emphasis on the
importance of smoothness and using your vision properly.
Intermediate classes are a more informal Q&A format relating to particular aspects of driving
AMP and a more in depth look at the technical aspects of driving.
Track Viewing
There are several vantage points offering good views of on-track activity:
• Bleachers at the top of the paddock and outside Turn 3
• Infield of Turn 1 - accessible by the tunnel under Turn 1
• The Control Tower. Please be aware of cars coming into the pits and please do not
disturb the person working Control
Be aware that there should always be a wall separating you and the track. If standing close to
the wall, never turn your back on a hot track, a car may be headed for you.
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Preparing to Drive
Attitude
A person’s first on track experience is always an eye-opener; being apprehensive about it is
natural. Try to relax as best you can; you will have an instructor to guide you and keep you safe.
How much and how quickly you learn depends on the attitude you bring to the experience. You
will make mistakes – accept it. Leave your ego in the paddock and approach the process with an
open mind.
Clothing
We require participants to wear rubber soled, natural upper shoes, long pants, and a long
sleeved shirt (natural, not synthetic fibres), or wear an approved fire resistant driving suit. These
should be comfortable and non-restrictive, since tight clothing can limit your movement. The
rest of the day, when you are not on track wear whatever is comfortable. Nudity is discouraged.
Seating Position
Your instructor will assist you with getting into the correct position and it will be discussed in
detail in the classroom. In the meantime, here is a good initial approximation of how your seat
should be set:
1. Slide the seat bottom forward so you can place your feet flat on the floor under the
pedals with your knees slightly bent.
2. Adjust the seat back so you can just break your wrist over the top of the wheel without
pulling your shoulders away from the seatback.
3. With your hands grasping the wheel in the 9 and 3 position your elbows should be
slightly bent.
Mirror Adjustment
Mirrors should be set to eliminate blind spots. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)
recommends the following technique:
1. Set your inside mirror to look directly behind.
2. Place your head against the driver’s door glass and set the driver’s mirror so that you
can just see the side of the car in the right edge of the mirror.
3. Move your head toward the centre of the car and adjust the right mirror until you can
just see the side of the car in the left side of the mirror.
Your instructor may ask you to adjust the passenger mirror so he can see following cars better.
Windows
We require that driver and passenger windows be all the way down while on track – rain or
shine. Solo drivers (Instructors and Advanced) may have the passenger window up if they are
the only one in the car.
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Tire Pressure
With the tires cold in the early morning, check the tire pressures all round. As a starting point
ensure they are set to the recommended values given in your vehicle’s manual. There is a
pressure rating marked on the side of your tires. It is the maximum pressure for the tire, not the
pressure it should normally be inflated to. Rely on your manual.
Tire pressures will vary throughout the day and may require adjustment. If you are unsure what
to do, ask your instructor. Nitrogen filled tires will vary less than those filled with the traditional
78% nitrogen mix.
It’s helpful to have a tire gauge and a small compressor to adjust the pressure. Don’t worry if
you don’t have them; upper run group participants likely do. Just ask.
Staging
Staging is the process designed to minimize the time between run groups by ensuring that the
next group of cars is ready to get on the track as soon as the previous group is off. At the drivers
meeting, there will be instructions on how and where to stage. Usually it is along the left wall of
pit lane.
There will be staging announcements 10 minutes and 5 minutes before your group goes on
track. Prepare for your run beforehand. Go to the bathroom if you need to and ensure you are
in the staging area with several minutes to spare. Generally, your instructor will meet you at
staging, although they may have arranged to meet you in the paddock area.
Be aware that there may be cars coming down pit lane as you prepare to go on track. We will be
using a procedure called Hot Tracking to reduce the time required to change run groups. Under
this procedure, the outgoing group will be released to the track as the incoming group is
finishing its cool down lap. (Typically, when the last car of the on track group passes Turn 6.)
You & Your Instructor
Instructors and students are paired prior to the event. Assignments are made based on your
experience level and the type of car you drive. Every effort is made to pair you with an instructor
familiar with your type of car. This isn’t so important with newer cars, but helpful with older
911s.
Your instructor’s job is to help you learn how to drive safely and at the same time have fun while
exploring your limits and the limits of your car in a controlled environment. PCA instructors are
very experienced, but they don’t know much about you and your car. After the Driver’s Meeting,
your instructor will seek you out for a brief chat about you, your car, and your expectations. Be
sure to communicate to your instructor your driving background and experience. Also, tell them
your driving objectives and concerns. Be sure to let them know about the condition of your car
and any modifications such as: chips, upgraded tires, brakes, etc.
We require your instructor to drive the first two laps of each session while you observe from the
passenger seat. This allows you to concentrate on the proper line around the track and on the
desired technique. It also allows the instructor to better understand the handling characteristics
of your car. These laps will be driven conservatively by your instructor as a teaching aid, in such
a way as to neither damage your car nor scare you. Note that, if you are new to track driving
even conservative laps in the hands of an instructor may seem very fast.
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The best way to approach a Driver Ed event is to leave your ego in the paddock and see what
you can learn from your instructor – with your mind as a blank slate, open to listening and
learning. Learning the best possible line through each turn at lower speeds will help you get a
sense of the subtle relationship between driver inputs and the way the car reacts. It's a slow
process and there is no substitute for seat time and good instruction. Your instructor will help
move you along the learning curve much more quickly than you can do on your own.
Your instructor will not push you to speeds where you don’t feel comfortable. Conversely,
please don’t take your car to a speed that the instructor feels is inappropriate. Please listen and
maintain an open mind. The fact that you may have been driving for years doesn’t necessarily
make you an expert driver.
In-car instruction is necessarily a simplified process because things happen quickly. To that end
your instructor’s directions will be brief. A summary of instructor language can be found in
Section 4.
Unfortunately, not all students and instructor combinations have good communication and
compatibility. If you and your instructor are struggling for multiple sessions to communicate and
get along, talk to the Chief Instructor and request a different instructor. Prior to this, you should
give it your best to listen and be responsive to instruction. It is critically important that as a
student you have a good attitude.
When you are on the track your instructor will evaluate your driving by a number of factors.
These include smoothness, accuracy and consistency driving the line, car control, shifting,
turning, accelerating, braking, aggressiveness, awareness, judgment and speed around the track.
Your instructor will be happy to discuss his evaluation and recommendations for improvement.
You will be evaluated in comparison to the expectations for your run group.
You will be promoted when and if your instructor and the Chief Instructor believe your
proficiency and judgment have matured to the next performance level. A detailed description of
requirements can be found in Section 4.
Communicators
Your instructor may have a two-way communicator to aid in-car communication. He or she will
give you an earpiece attached to a boom microphone. Put your helmet on first, then take the
earpiece and gently insert it inside your helmet between your ear and the helmet padding. The
boom microphone will be naturally positioned in front of your mouth. At the end of the run,
remove the communicator by grasping the earpiece. Do not pull the connecting wire - they do
not last long if you do.
If your instructor doesn't have a communicator, don't worry - you will still be able to hear their
comments and instructions.
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Orientation Laps & Braking Exercise
If you are a beginner, your first lapping session of each event will be an orientation session. You
will be asked to drive the first two laps in the centre of the track at 60 kph while your instructor
points out features of the track, such as marshal stations. After two laps you will return to the
pits and your instructor will drive the next two laps to illustrate the proper line and on the front
straight demonstrate threshold braking. After the instructor laps you will switch again for the
remainder of the session.
To help build confidence, we have added a braking exercise to help students understand just
how powerful their brakes are. Threshold braking on the track is very different from street
braking and a new experience for most people. Most students have never really braked their car
hard and have never triggered their ABS.
To facilitate communication, these sessions will be run without helmets.
Setting Goals
Each time you come to the track you should set a goal. Do you want to work on a specific corner
or a specific skill? Do you want to understand car dynamics better or move to a different
group?… It helps to have a plan.
Pick one or two things to work on, but try not to jam them together. As an example, if you want
to work on two turns try to work on turns that are at opposite ends of the track so you have
time to adapt between them.
On the Track
Your instructor will show you exactly where to go and what to do on track, but here are a few
key points to be familiar with:
Getting on track
Access to pit lane is via the top of the paddock as shown in Figure 1.
The Starter under the start-finish bridge controls access from the pit lane to the track. The
Starter is there to ensure safe entry onto the track and to space vehicles out so they aren’t
bumper to bumper.
Line-up in front of the Starter and await instructions. When directed, accelerate smartly under
the Start/Finish bridge and onto the track – do not dawdle. Be sure to check your mirrors and
shoulder check to be sure that no one is coming down the front straight.
Track entry places you on the left side of the track and off-line. When you are sure it is safe, you
will need to move onto the driving line.
Warm-up
Tires, brakes and brains all need to be warmed up, so your first lap is always a warm-up lap.
Your instructor has driven the first two laps so the car is warmed up, but your brain isn’t. Take
the first laps to warm yourself up and build a rhythm.
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Gauges
Make a habit of checking your gauges at least once per lap on either the front or back straight.
You will run hotter than on the street. After a few sessions, you will start to get a sense of
normal track operating temperature. The temperature should stabilize, not continue to rise. If
you seem to be running unusually hot, slow for a lap or two to see if it comes down. If it persists
or rises, come into the pits.
The Car Ahead of You
Don’t follow the car ahead of you; they may not know where they are going. You should be
watching and driving your line. All you need to know about the car ahead is where it is, so you
don’t run into it.
Trains/Parades
Speed differentials on track inevitably lead to forming groups of cars travelling together. Keep
an eye on your mirrors and watch for blue flags. Large groups can take some time to clear with
simple passing. AMP is a relatively short and complex track and trains can form quickly. Be
aware of cars behind you and allow passing promptly. If you are leading a group, sometimes it is
easiest to pull in to the pits and let the train pass; follow your instructor’s guidance. If you are
following a large group, you can also pull into the pits and signal to the starter that you need
space.
Critters
AMP is out in the country and our woodland friends live there. Beware that there may be
groundhogs, porcupines, and birds close to or on the track. It’s rare, but it happens.
Cool-down
When you see the chequered flag, your last lap is a cool-down lap. It’s a chance to shed some of
the heat you put into the car’s systems. Slow to a second or third gear pace and try to avoid
using the brakes.
Exiting the Track
Pit-in at AMP is on the left side of Turn 10. Approaching pit-in (Figure
1) clench your fist and hold your left arm straight up, out the window
and above the roofline to indicate you are entering pit lane. Use this
signal any time you need to pit. Stay to the left of the track when
exiting.
At the base of the Control Tower you must slow to 30 kph. Proceed
along pit row, under the Start/Finish bridge and turn left around the
Tech Building. It’s helpful to put on your left turn signal to indicate to
the Starter that you are returning to the paddock.
Drive slowly through the paddock (10 kph) back to your parking space.
When parked shut the car off and leave it in gear. Do not sit with your
foot on the brake or set the park brake. Figure 2 – Pitting Signal
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Flags
Flags are our only means of communication with drivers on the track. You must know and
understand them; they are for your safety.
Note: We run a simplified set of flags for our events; some of the flags that would be used on a
race day are not used.
Figure 3 - Flags
Session has started
Passing Permitted
WAVING
NO PASSING
Slow down
Danger on track
Obstruction pavementON
STATIONARY
NO PASSING
Slow down
Danger on track
Obstruction pavementOFF
Faster traffic behind you
At next passing zone
give signal & allow
to pass
Furled & Pointed
Track Infraction
Return to pit IMMEDIATELY
See Chief Instructor
Session is over
Reduce speed
Allow car to cool
No more passing
Serious Problem on track
NO PASSING
Check your mirrors
Slow to 1st gear speed
Proceed to pits
FURLED
At Start Finish
Five minute warning
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Corner Workers/Marshals
There will be Corner Workers, also known as Marshals, located in flagging stations around the
track. They are there to keep you safe. Your instructor will point out their locations. Typically
there will be someone at: Start/Finish, Turn 2, Turn 3, Turn 5, Turn 7, Turn 9, and turn 11.
It is your responsibility to know where they are and what the flags they use mean.
Passing
Passing is permitted in all run groups, except during warm-up and cool down laps, and under a
yellow flag. Permission to pass is given by the driver being overtaken. There is no passing
without a clear signal. All passing is on the left, just like the highway.
Passing Zones
Passing Zones are on the front and back straights and are marked with large cones. Passing is
not to be initiated before the first cone and must be completed before the last.
Passing Signals
We use hand signals for passing. Signal the overtaking car with your left
arm straight out the window. A separate signal must be given for each
overtaking vehicle. Do not give a signal for a second vehicle until the
first is clear.
Cooperation
Safe passing requires cooperation between the passer and the passee.
The person being passed is always in control of the process. Be aware of
cars behind you and keep an eye out for Blue Flags. In the next passing
zone signal clearly and allow the overtaking car to pass. Passing is not a
drag race – maintain a steady throttle until the overtaking car is safely
past.
Safety Note
In the event that your car is disabled, pull off the track and wait for assistance. Stay in the car
with your helmet and belts on - unless it is on fire. Do not attempt to make repairs.
In the event that another vehicle is stopped, do not stop to offer assistance yourself. The track
officials will deal with the situation.
Figure 4 - Passing Signal
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Track Etiquette
Driver Education events involve a broad range of cars and drivers with a correspondingly wide
range of capabilities; differences in speed are inevitable. Events only operate smoothly if
everyone cooperates. The main principle is don’t be a jerk, but here are a few pointers to make
life easier:
• Be aware of the vehicles around you. Keep an eye on your mirrors.
• Pay attention to the flags. Ignoring blue flags will get you black-flagged.
• Don’t crowd the car ahead of you. It can be unsettling for the driver ahead and can
cause them to make mistakes.
• Passing is a cooperative process – do your part
• Give clear signals. A finger pointing out the window is not an adequate signal.
• AMP is a volunteer run facility – clean up after yourself
After Your Run
Drive slowly (10 kph) through the paddock back to your parking space. When parked shut the
car off and leave it in gear. Do not sit with your foot on the brake or set the park brake.
Your instructor will likely want to sit with you awhile to discuss the session while the memory is
still fresh. When that’s done, the following are a few things you should check.
Condition of Your Car
After a run, it is wise to check your car in preparation for your next session.
• Tire wear - Check your tires after every session for nicks, punctures, or worn areas.
• Tire pressure - Check tire pressure before each session. Tires typically increase more
than 5 PSI during track sessions, so if your tires have increased pressure it’s normal.
Check with your instructor if they think you should bleed off the increased pressure to
bring your hot tires back toward their normal cold pressure.
• Oil level and temperature - Check the oil level every couple of sessions and add oil if
needed. Get in the habit of checking the oil pressure on the track and monitoring oil
temperature.
• Coolant temperature - As with oil, monitor your coolant temperature regularly while on
the track. If you get a reading in the red zone or no reading, you should end your session
early and let things cool down.
• Fuel level – As a beginner, a full tank in the morning will generally get you through the
day but you’ll be surprised at how quickly you can go through gas. Check at lunchtime
and if you’re not sure whether you have enough to make it through the next sessions,
get more gas. You don’t want to take up everybody’s track time being towed off the
track.
• Brakes – Track driving takes its toll on brakes. While driving, if the brake pedal starts to
feel soft or spongy, tell your instructor and come into the pits immediately. A soft brake
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pedal happens shortly before the pedal goes straight to the floor without any resistance.
This happens when your brake fluid boils and can be easily rectified by bleeding your
brakes. This is a simple process – again, ask someone for help if you need to do this.
Your Condition
Track driving is physically and mentally demanding, particularly at Atlantic Motorsport Park.
Please be aware of your condition at all times.
Just as you need to be aware of your car’s fluid levels, you need to be aware of your own.
Dehydration leads to deterioration in judgment, concentration and mental performance. Make
sure that you stay well hydrated.
It is not mandatory to stay on track for your entire lapping session. If you feel your
concentration beginning to slip return to the pits. There aren’t any prizes for going beyond your
limits.
Miscellaneous Tips
Your Well-Being
At summer events, you need to be aware of the effect of heat and sun on your body and take
measures to cope. The tips below may sound like common sense, but people have been known
to get dizzy from heat exhaustion. Apply sunscreen liberally.
As stressed earlier, dehydration leads to deterioration in judgment, concentration and mental
performance. Medical studies have shown that fluid loss exceeding approx. 3% of bodyweight
impairs reaction time, judgment, concentration and decision making. During exertion thirst is
not necessarily a good indicator of dehydration since there can be a time lag before your body
responds. Drink cool fluids regularly throughout the day even if you are not thirsty. Be alert and
if you notice any of these symptoms of heat exhaustion pull into pit lane and let someone know:
Dizziness, Headache, Heavy sweating, Muscle cramps, Nausea, Weakness
Lug Nuts
You should periodically check your lug nuts for tightness with a torque wrench. Don’t worry if
you don’t have one, there will be lots at the track. Typical Porsche torque settings are in the
range of 94 – 96 lb-ft.
Please don’t check with hot wheels, you won’t get accurate readings.
If you must remove a wheel, allow it to cool first. Coming straight off track there is far too much
heat in the wheels and lugs. Most early Porsches have light, aluminum alloy lug nuts. If you try
to remove them with the commonly used soft-socket-with-a-plastic insert, the plastic may turn
to a gooey mess. If you use a regular steel socket, it is easy to break the neck of the lug nut from
the collar. Removal of a destroyed lug nut is not generally something that can be done at
trackside.
Steel lug nuts or the steel lug bolts used on later Porsches avoid the shear problem, but you
should wait to remove them. Because, well – hot!
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Removable Car Numbers
Once you have made a commitment to do several DE events, you may want to consider
requesting a permanently assigned car number and having it made up on a removable decal.
Numbers should be at least 5 inches high. You may choose numbers made from magnetic
material, or vinyl numbers stuck on to a magnetic background circle. Remember that a magnetic
decal may come unstuck at high speeds. It is therefore recommended to use some masking tape
to secure the leading edge of the decal. This is especially true for magnetic panel numbers; less
of a problem for individual magnetic numbers
Keys in Car
It is up to you whether you leave your keys with your car, but keep in mind that you may be
away from your vehicle for some time and leaving the keys would allow a fellow participant to
close your windows and sunroof in the event of a sudden rain shower.
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Event Regulations
1. Listen to your instructor at all times. They are there to teach and keep you safe at all
times.
2. This is a school – either, racing or timing are grounds for expulsion
3. Participants must be at least 18 years of age, must have a valid driver’s license..
4. Drivers must have completed registration and be through the tech line PRIOR to the
driver’s and instructor’s meetings (by 8:00 am).
5. Participants must wear rubber soled, natural uppers shoes, long pants, and a long
sleeved shirt (natural, not synthetic fibres), or wear an approved fire resistant driving
suit.
6. A Snell 2005 or newer helmet is required. Either M or SA ratings are permitted. If your
car has a roll cage an SA helmet is required (European race standards BS6658-85 type
A/FR & SFI SFI 31.1A, SFI 31.2A are acceptable)
7. Non-participants are not permitted in either student or instructor cars. Non-participants
under the age of 18 are allowed only in spectator areas. Instructors riding in student
cars and students riding in instructor cars for instructional purposes are permitted. No
student may ride with another student.
8. A Pre-tech form completely filled out and signed in advance of the event is required.
Use of the Acadia Region form is strongly encouraged. The Tech form must be
completed within two weeks of the event. Tech inspections done prior to another
driving event are not acceptable.
9. Fire extinguishers are mandatory for all run groups and must be securely fastened,
metal-to-metal (minimum 2.5 pound ABC, with two strap metal bracket recommended)
within reach of the driver. This requirement is waived for first time participants for one
event only.
10. Street tires must have a minimum tread depth of 3/32 completely around at least 2
grooves (excluding wear bars). R-rated tires and slicks must have visible tread indicators
around the full circumference.
11. All tires must be of the same make, model, and speed rating.
12. Using R-rated track tires or slicks is strongly discouraged for novice drivers. They make
learning difficult.
13. All open top cars (including targas) must run with tops installed or up, unless arm
restraints are used by each occupant. All sunroofs must be closed or entirely removed
while on track (arm restraints required if sunroof is open/removed).
14. At Acadia Region events, all Cabriolets must have a roll bar installed, with the following
exceptions: Targas, 914s, Boxsters plus 996 and later cabriolets are acceptable as
delivered from the factory.
15. Windows must be fully down (rain or shine). Window nets are not allowed.
16. Students should expect that their instructor will drive their car for several laps at each
event.
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17. Passengers (students in an instructor’s car or instructors in a student’s car) must have
available and wear, an equivalent restraint system (belts/harnesses and seats) to what is
being worn by the driver.
18. All participants must obey all passing rules set forth in the driver’s meeting.
19. There is a mandatory Black Flag pit stop for all spins or 2 (or more) wheels-off. Two
Black Flags for these or other driving infractions are grounds for expulsion from the
event
20. Illegal drugs are not permitted and no alcoholic beverages may be consumed by anyone
(participant or guest) during the event.
21. Acadia Region runs DE events in the rain and cold weather. No refunds for an event
cancelled after cars have been on the track, or for participants who do not come to the
track when an event is not started.
22. PSM (Porsche Stability Management) or equivalent systems must be left on in student
cars
23. Externally mounted cameras are not permitted. In-car cameras must be securely
mounted and tethered.
Penalties
Safety is our number one concern and our regulations were developed to reflect this concern.
The event officials reserve the right to disqualify any participant who fails to abide by these
regulations.
Acadia Region follows the "two spin rule" which means that any driver will automatically be
disqualified from further participation in the event if they spin twice or have two or more
wheels off the track twice during the event.
If you are observed to be driving in an irresponsible manner, you will be disqualified from the
event.
No one disqualified from an event is entitled to a refund.
Responsibility
Be aware that neither Atlantic Motorsport Park nor the Acadia Region of the Porsche Club of
America provides you with insurance to cover losses to your person, to your equipment or to
any part of the track and its facilities that you cause to be damaged. Be aware that your
personal automobile insurance policy may not cover damages sustained during this event. You
are personally responsible for all liabilities that you may incur as a result of participating in
this event. Be aware that you have signed a waiver that releases your Acadia instructor(s) and
the Directors and Executive members of the Acadia Region from all liabilities that may result
from your participation in this event. Be aware that you are solely responsible for your safety
and for your actions during this event.
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Moving Up
A detailed list of promotion criteria can be found in Section 4. In general, you may be ready for a
check ride to evaluate your readiness to move to the next Run Group, if you are Safe,
Consistent, Comfortable & Courteous and you:
• Understand and drive the basic line consistently (Green & Yellow participants)
• Use appropriate cornering techniques
• Recognize corner workers and flags
• Are open to instruction, listen & learn
• Watch your mirrors and signal appropriately
• Make smooth weight transfers while shifting, braking, accelerating, & steering.
• Are able to drive at a pace suitable for the next level
If you have any questions about moving up to a higher group, please discuss that with your
Instructor.
If your check ride is successful, you will move up to the next level at your next event.
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Section 2 - Key Driving Concepts
Mastering the complex skills of performance driving is exhilarating and immensely satisfying.
This handbook lays out the basic principles, but it is no substitute for in-car experience with an
instructor. All teaching is necessarily a simplification and with the written word, it is simply
impossible to convey the nuances of physical skills. What follows is meant to give a sense of the
principles involved. Though simplified some of it may seem quite technical. Don’t get too
wrapped up in trying to absorb it all before you go on track; some of it will only become clear
after you have spent some time on track with your instructor.
Fundamental Principles
There are many important aspects to performance driving, but there are two fundamental
principles of driving well that we want you to grasp firmly: the importance of being smooth and
importance of using your vision correctly. If you learn nothing else, learn these. They can save
your life on the highway.
Smoothness
Driving well is a sort of dance - using balance and smoothness to get the most out of your
partner. Everything in this handbook from this point will emphasize being smooth.
Smoothness is the seamless blending of functions. In the beginning it is infinitely more
important to be smooth than to be fast. Fast comes later. Concentrate on learning to drive
smoothly and properly before concerning yourself with going fast.
Smoothness allows you to optimize the performance of you and your vehicle; getting the most
out of the four tiny rubber contact patches connecting you to the road. Driving smoothly, you
apply the minimum number of inputs to achieve maximum cornering efficiency.
Given identical cars, an experienced driver will be faster than a novice primarily because of
smoothness. A car is a complex dynamic system that responds sinusoidally. Abrupt inputs to the
steering, brakes or throttle apply energy to the system in a way that does not suit the car’s
natural responses. The result is sub-optimal performance and in the case of very abrupt inputs
can be potentially dangerous. The experienced driver’s smooth inputs allow the car to respond
naturally and give maximum performance.
The more performance oriented your vehicle, the less tolerant it will be of abrupt inputs. A mini-
van tolerates heavy-handed inputs; a GT3 RS does not. Be smooth. Roll on and off the gas;
squeeze the brakes; and to steal a term from Beckmann’s Physics of Racing, slither in and out of
the steering.
Don’t confuse smooth inputs with slow inputs - slow is a relative term. Smooth means that there
is a transition from no input to some input. Consider the slope of a wave; there is no stair-step
from zero to full input. As a beginner, smooth and slow will be synonymous for you, but
increasing experience will allow you to increase the slope of the wave.
It is very difficult to be smooth if you are always reacting on reflex. Using your vision, looking
well ahead and planning what to do next are the keys to smoothness. We’ll discuss this in more
detail in the following sections on vision.
PLAN – ACT – DON’T REACT
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Patience and Speed
When you are new to performance driving everything appears to be happening much too
quickly and there is a tendency to rush your responses and that leads to not being smooth. You
must be patient to be smooth.
If you find you are feeling rushed, slow down to where you can drive without making mistakes.
Concentrating on driving smoothly and driving the line you will get around the track much
quicker than if you ignore smooth and simply try to drive fast.
FESTINA LENTE – MAKE HASTE SLOWLY Pliny
Vision
Your eyes are your major source of sensory input while driving - not the seat of your pants, and
not your inner ear. Your other senses are important, but vision dominates because it gives you
the earliest information.
Most people tend to look much too close to their hood and down at the pavement. You cannot
be smooth if you are not looking far enough ahead. It gives you time to plan, so you aren’t
driving on reflex.
You should be looking at least three seconds down the road with a soft focus – looking at
nothing, seeing everything. Scan within your field of vision, not fixing on anything. Above all, you
should be looking where you want to go, not where you are going.
You have a reaction time. It takes a driver half a second or more to respond to an input. Your car
also has a reaction time; it cannot respond instantly. Total reaction time is the combination of
your reaction time and your car’s. At 160 kph (100 mph) you are covering at least 23 metres (75
ft) in a half second of reaction time. Everything within that distance you are committed to – you
can do absolutely nothing about it. Looking one second out induces fear and panicky responses.
Looking two seconds out causes anxiety and jerky inputs. Looking three seconds ahead gives you
132 metres (450 ft) to plan and act in comfort.
Looking well ahead allows you to sense changes in your car’s attitude (pitch, roll, and yaw) early
and take action. A tightrope walker is taught to look out toward the horizon rather than down,
not because of the height, but because small changes in body position can be detected quickly
by larger changes in horizon position.
Look farther ahead than three seconds if necessary, but be cautious about looking too far
ahead; it introduces more information than you need.
The most difficult thing about learning to see on the road or track is learning to rely on your
peripheral vision for things that are close to your car (turn-in point, apex, track-out). There is a
natural tendency to operate within a narrow field of view, but there is a great deal of
information in the periphery. With a soft focus looking down the track, your peripheral vision
will show you where the edges of the track are when you are looking for an apex or an exit.
Learning to have faith in your peripheral vision will be unnerving at first and will require
practice, but it will make a major contribution to how you drive.
THE CAR GOES WHERE YOU LOOK
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In-car Basics
Seating
Proper seating position is critical for car control; you cannot drive well if you are not positioned
to operate the controls efficiently. Most street drivers tend sit too far from the wheel and too
reclined, so sitting correctly may initially feel a little odd, but it quickly becomes second nature.
To be correctly positioned you must sit fully in the seat, not on it. Make sure that your butt is
firmly planted in the pocket between the seat base and the back (Figure 5A).
Adjust the fore/aft position of the seat so that you can move your feet easily between the
pedals with clearance under the steering wheel. You may need to adjust the tilt of your wheel.
There should be a slight bend at the knees when you fully depress the pedals to the floor with
the ball of your foot (Figure 5C). On the track or the road, your knees should never be straight;
in the event of an accident, force will be transmitted straight up your legs.
Next, adjust the seatback angle so that with your shoulders against the seatback you can rest
your wrist over the wheel at the 12 o’clock position without pulling your shoulders away from
the seat (Figure 5B). Your arms should be bent when your hands are placed on the steering
wheel at the three and nine o'clock positions. This slight bend in your arms, even when fully
outstretched during cornering, helps prevent the arms from getting tired through
overextension.
Your instructor may have a slightly different technique for getting the distance from the wheel,
but the final position will be the same.
If you set your position without your helmet you may need to adjust the rake of the seat back
slightly to keep the head restraint from pushing your head forward.
If your vehicle has a sunroof you may have clearance issues when wearing your helmet. If
possible, lower the seat bottom as far as necessary.
For vehicles with an adjustable seat bottom, it can be helpful to drop the back and raise the
front to create a nice deep bucket to help hold you in position.
Finally, don’t drive with your wallet in your back pocket; it will get very uncomfortable on track.
Figure 5 - Seating Position A B C
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Seatbelts
Your seatbelt should be tight; it helps keep you in your seat when cornering and braking.
Struggling to stay in your seat reduces your control and is very tiring.
Do not pull the shoulder strap of your seatbelt off your shoulder. While it may be more
comfortable, it defeats the purpose of your belts and in a collision can cause serious injury.
Wrap-around pads are available to make the shoulder belt more comfortable.
Steering
Your steering wheel is your principal control for the direction of your car, but it is also a key
source of information about how your car interacts with the road. Learning to use it correctly is
essential.
The wheel should be held with your hands in the 9 and 3 o’clock positions (Figure 6A). Most
modern wheels will have the spokes positioned so you can rest your thumbs on them in this
position. Correct hand positioning will allow a full half turn of the wheel without moving your
hands or crossing your arms.
The old 10 and 2 position you were taught in driver-ed is obsolete, since it limits your ability to
turn the wheel without repositioning your hands. It may also result in your left hand being
driven out the side window in the event your air bag is triggered. On that note, driving on the
street with your hand on top of the wheel will result in you punching yourself in the face during
a collision.
Your grip on the wheel should be light. A tight grip prevents you from feeling the feedback your
car is giving. A Porsche is very communicative; don’t make yourself deaf to it.
Pull the wheel to turn, don’t push. Pushing the wheel results in driving from the shoulders and
less feel. Some vehicles with high steering effort may require a combination of the two.
Your steering inputs must be smooth; sudden inputs will reduce the grip available for turning.
Think of the wheel as a clock you are turning. Turning into a corner your movements should be
slow for the first five minutes, then progressively faster. Unwinding is similar, slow for the first
five minutes, faster in the middle, and slow at the end. Slow initial movements give the
suspension time to react.
Occasionally you will find that you need to turn the wheel further than the 9 & 3 position allows
(Figure 6B) without crossing your arms. To get more movement, open your lower hand and let
the wheel slide through your fingers. At AMP, you will need to do this for Turn 2. No other
corner requires changing hand position.
Figure 6 – Steering A,B,C
31
On the street you will find that for very sharp turns, like at an intersection, you cannot turn the
wheel far enough with the 9 & 3 position. The solution (Figure 6C) is to reach across the wheel
with the hand from the direction you are turning, grip the wheel and slide it through the other
hand as you turn.
Shifting
It may be going the way of the dinosaur, but one of the great pleasures of driving is a well-
executed shift. We assume that you already understand the basics of shifting, but here are some
pointers for getting that perfect shift:
• Push the shifter with the palm of the hand and pull it with the fingers. Don’t grip it like a
joystick; you won’t have any feel.
• Make sure the clutch is all the way in.
• Pause briefly in neutral, just long enough to feel that you are there. It will help smooth
out the shift.
• Don’t speed shift. It just causes unnecessary wear and tear on your driveline. Porsche
transmissions do not like to be rushed.
• Do not ride the clutch with your left foot. Your left foot should be on the dead pedal
when you aren’t shifting. Riding the clutch will cause premature wear.
• Do not leave your hand on the shifter; it needs to be on the wheel steering with the
other one.
• Do not shift in a corner; it destabilizes the car.
• Modern cars have brakes that work. There is no need to downshift to slow the car; you
aren’t driving a Model T or a Kenworth. Pads and rotors are significantly cheaper than a
clutch and transmission. In other words, ‘Gears are for go, brakes are for whoa.’
Braking always precedes downshifting for a corner. Most experienced track drivers brake and
downshift simultaneously using a technique called heel and toe. It’s an advanced technique that
will be discussed later in this handbook. You are not expected to know it coming in and the track
is not the best place to learn it.
Throttle Control
Your throttle does more than make your car go faster or slower. It works in concert with your
steering and brakes to control the balance of the car. That may not be apparent on the street,
but on the track you need to learn to use it with finesse.
Smooth inputs are essential to control, because throttle inputs affect dynamic weight balance
and that affects grip. In performance driving we are always managing grip. We will discuss this
more fully in later sections.
The throttle is not an on-off switch. The amount of throttle you can use depends on how much
you are turning. It’s helpful to imagine a string tied between your right big toe and the wheel; as
you turn the wheel the string pulls your foot up off the gas, and as you straighten the wheel you
can put your foot back down.
32
In a car with PSM the throttle is not fully in your control. If you are too aggressive with the
throttle, it will cut the power to maintain grip and keep you on track. You need to manage the
way you apply power so this does not happen.
Braking
Going fast requires being able to use your
brakes well. Anyone can put the gas pedal to
the floor, but learning to brake well is likely to
be the skill that takes you longest to master.
Braking on the street, as illustrated in Figure7,
is usually a relaxed process. You begin with
light brake pressure and increase gradually
until you are slowing at the rate you want.
This is followed by a gradual decrease in
pressure as you come to a stop. At no point
do you approach maximum braking force.
Braking on track requires you to shed as much
speed as necessary over the shortest possible
distance using a technique called threshold
braking. Maximum braking power is achieved
at the threshold of locking up your wheels.
Beyond lock-up your tires slide, friction is reduced and
you lose the ability to steer.
Threshold braking requires rapid application of pressure to the brake pedal up to the point of
locking the wheels. Rapid application, as shown in Figure 7, is not slamming on the brakes; they
must be applied smoothly. Slamming on the brakes will lead to the front brakes doing all of the
work and most likely a lock-up that will be difficult to recover from.
Finding the threshold reliably is a skill that takes time and practice. If you lock-up, or trigger the
ABS, quickly ease off the brakes until your tires start rolling again. Do not take all of the pressure
off the pedal; you just want the wheels to stop sliding. As you slow, you will need to decrease
the pressure on the pedal smoothly until you reach your desired speed.
Releasing the brake pedal progressively is critical to the entire process. Most beginners can
press their foot against the pedal with some degree of precision and control; however, few
seem able to raise the foot away from the pedal with the same sensitivity. Beginners tend to
side-step the pedal or jump off it, resulting in rapid weight transfer to the rear of car and loss of
traction at the front of the car. A smooth, unhurried release enhances grip for the front tires just
as they begin the turn.
With threshold braking your goal is to reduce your speed in a straight line over the shortest
possible distance. As you learn and your confidence increases you will need to adjust your
braking points, since braking distance increases with the square of your speed – if you double
your speed you quadruple your braking distance.
You can practice threshold braking on the street, but make sure no one is behind you and you
don’t have passengers. Your passengers won’t appreciate it.
Time
Bra
kin
g P
ress
ure
Street Style Braking
.Inverted Technique
(Track Braking)
Lock-up Pressure @ Vmax
Street
Track
Figure 7 - Braking: Street vs Threshold
33
If at any time you feel your brake pedal going soft, slow down, pump the pedal a few times to
get full braking effect back and pull in at the pits as soon as possible.
Anti-lock Braking Systems
Anti-lock Braking Systems (ABS) on modern cars allow very hard braking while preventing lock-
up and allowing you to retain the ability to steer around a hazard. Effectively, they perform very
fast cadence braking (lock-release-lock-release). They do not provide a shorter stopping distance
than threshold braking, but newer more sophisticated systems are getting close. If you find you
are routinely triggering your ABS, you are likely applying too much brake, too fast.
Many drivers have never triggered their ABS and have no idea how it feels. When it triggers,
there will be a rapid pulsing and unusual noises from the actuators. This is normal - your car is
not broken. In an emergency, do not lift off the pedal when the pulsing starts. Hold the pedal
and look where you want to go.
Nannies
Modern cars are marvels of electronic sophistication. Systems such as anti-lock brakes, traction
control, and stability management make cars easier and safer to drive. Some vehicles permit
these systems to be disabled. We require that these safety systems be left on if your vehicle is
equipped with them.
The sophistication of the systems varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Porsche systems
are built for sports cars and are consequently much more tolerant of vigorous driving. Porsche
Stability Management (PSM) is forgiving up to a point. If you are driving smoothly on a good line,
you will never know it is there. If you feel it killing your throttle, treat it as a teaching tool; you
are doing something wrong.
Performance enhancing features like Sport or Sport+ modes, and paddle shifting are left to the
driver’s discretion. For new drivers in their first couple of sessions we recommend leaving Sport
or Sport+ off and leaving the transmission in Drive. There is a lot to learn in the first few sessions
and these systems can steepen the learning curve. These modes aggressively re-map throttle
response and shift behaviour; making it difficult for a beginner to learn to be smooth. Keep it
simple; leave them off. You can turn them on as you start to get comfortable.
Electronic systems are an attempt to make things idiot proof, but there is an old adage that says:
‘Just when you think you have built something idiot proof, someone comes along and builds a
better idiot.’ There are limits to what these systems can do - don’t be the better idiot.
Going Off Track
Sometimes things go wrong and you put a wheel or two off track – don’t panic. We want you to
do exactly what you were taught as a kid in driver-ed:
• First, don’t try to yank the car back onto the track, you could go shooting off the other
side or cause a spin.
• If you have to go completely off – drive off as straight as you can.
• Slow to a safe speed and drive back on when it is safe.
• Come back in to the pits and inspect for wheel damage or debris trapped under the car.
34
Driving the Track
In the 17th century, Sir Isaac Newton formulated his three laws of motion. For our purposes, we
will restate them into three truths you should keep in mind:
1. Your car can go faster in a straight line than on a curve
2. You can drive faster on a large circle than on a smaller one, but it takes longer
3. A car brakes much better than it accelerates
We apply these concepts intuitively every day as we drive, but for this discussion, it helps our
understanding to bring them to the forefront.
All About ‘The Line’
Throughout a DE you will hear a lot about The Line; the most efficient and safest way to get
around the track using the entire track surface. The line is neither the shortest nor the longest
path around the track – the former would make you slow down too much, and the latter would
waste time covering a longer distance. The ideal line will let you go full throttle as long as you
can while approaching a corner, brake as hard and as late as possible, and go back to full
throttle on the way out. It’s the path that gives you the best trade-off between speed and
distance, resulting in the shortest overall time.
Our aim is to teach you the fundamentals of working each corner so you always know where to
be on the track and you can drive The Line. We teach an ideal or qualifying line not a race line.
Race lines may be different in some turns for tactical reasons , not because they are faster.
Your goal should be to learn to drive the
line exactly the same way every lap –
consistency is key. You’ll learn the line
through a combination of your instructor
showing you the line, by driving it, by
reviewing it in the classroom, and by
talking to other people who know the
track. Then it’s just practice, practice,
practice…
Anatomy of a Corner
The most difficult and fun part of driving
the line is the corners. Our objective
when track driving is to navigate a corner
as smoothly, safely and quickly as we can.
This requires understanding some basics
about the anatomy of a corner and how
best to approach it.
A simple curve on a road or a track is laid out from a centre point and between an inside and
outside radius (Figure 8). A vehicle travelling on this surface can follow any arc between them.
The bigger the radius of the arc the faster you can go. The tighter the radius, the slower you
must go to stay within the vehicle’s capability.
CURVE CENTRE
GEOMETRIC RACE LINE
GEOMETRIC LINE
CONSTANT THROTTLE
GEOMETRIC TURN-IN POINT
THEORETICAL/GEOMETRIC APEX
RMAX
RIN
ROUT
GEOMETRIC TRACK-OUT POINT (EXIT)
GEOMETRIC RACE LINE CENTRE
Figure 8 - Theoretical Line
35
Ideally, we want to follow the biggest possible arc through the corner to maximize our speed.
Geometrically, the outside radius of the turn is not the biggest arc we can fit inside the corner.
Figure 8 shows how we can make the curve much straighter than it actually is by starting the
turn earlier and finishing it later. Table 1 below gives examples for the different paths followed
by a vehicle through a 120 foot (centre line) turn while cornering at 1 g. It’s clear that the
maximum path radius that will fit inside the corner is significantly larger than the inside or
outside radii of the corner and that the cornering speed is significantly higher.
Table 1 – Cornering Speed v Turn Radius
Throughout this program you will hear a lot about apexes. As shown in Figure 8, the theoretical
or geometric apex is the point where the largest possible path contacts the inside mid-point of
the corner. We will discuss other apexes shortly, but in general the practical apex of a corner is
where the largest driveable arc contacts the inside of the turn.
Following the theoretical line through a corner at the limit of your vehicle’s grip requires driving
at a constant speed. Entering the corner, you must slow to that speed and maintain it
throughout the corner. You cannot accelerate until you are finished the corner. A theoretical
apex line is unforgiving; it leaves very little room for driver error.
Late Apex
In track driving we rarely use the
theoretical apex of a corner, we prefer to
use what is known as a late apex. It offers
two main advantages; it’s safer and it
maximizes the exit speed from the corner.
A late apex requires a lower entry speed
and a later sharper turn-in, as illustrated
in Figure 9. This approach allows you to
have a much straighter exit from the
corner and begin accelerating much
sooner than the theoretical line.
Slow in – Fast out.
Burn that phrase into your brain.
The time it takes to travel through the
corner may be slightly longer than using
the theoretical apex, but maximizing the exit speed maximizes your final speed on the following
straight, minimizing the time for the turn-straight combination.
g = 1.0 Radius (feet) VMAX in mph
R in 100 39
R out 140 46
R max 240 60
CURVE CENTRE
IDEAL EXIT
IDEAL LINE
TURN-IN POINT
IDEAL LINE
FULL THROTTLE
LATE APEX
Figure 9 - Ideal Line
36
This approach to cornering is applicable on the street even within a standard highway lane. You
don’t have as much room to work, but it does help you get around turns safely, particularly in
slippery conditions.
Approach all unfamiliar corners as a late apex. It’s the safest thing to do.
Early Apex
An early apex is the third approach to a corner and is
not recommended. It’s how most people approach a
corner on the street and it is potentially dangerous,
particularly in slippery conditions. An early apex gives
a too-flat entry and requires a too-sharp exit. Entry
speed is often too high and you must slow mid-turn or
run off the track. Going off may be the only option if
there is insufficient traction available to allow you to
slow down.
If you see someone who has driven off a curve on a
snowy road, look at their tracks. They will almost
certainly have turned in too early and run out of road.
It is possible to get away with it at highway speed in dry
conditions, but all that changes when it gets slippery.
Comparison of Apexes
We’ve looked at the three types of
apexes separately; Figure 11
overlays the three so we can
compare them.
You can see that the turn in point
for each is significantly different.
The late turn in for the ideal line
allows braking much later into the
corner.
For a simple turn like this, there is a
small distance between the apexes
but the orientation of the cars is
quite different. The early apex car
must slow to stay on track. The car
on the theoretical line must
maintain its speed or slow, and the
car on the ideal line can accelerate.
The exit point for the ideal line is slightly farther down
the track than for the theoretical line, but because the ideal line allows early acceleration the
exit speed is higher.
More complex curves will have distinct differences between the three apexes, particularly
between the early and late ones. We’ll look at different types of curves in a later discussion.
CURVE CENTRE
EARLY APEX
GEOMETRIC TRACK-OUT POINT (EXIT)
GEOMETRIC
TURN-IN POINT
THEORETICAL/GEOMETRIC APEX
GEOMETRIC RACE LINE CENTRE
IDEAL EXIT
IDEAL LINE
IDEAL TURN-IN POINT
LATE APEX
CURVE CENTRE
EARLY APEX
EARLY TURN-IN POINT
Figure 11 - Line and Apex Comparison
Figure 10 - Early Apex
37
This Page Intentionally Left Blank
38
Working a Corner
Now that we have discussed the basics, it’s time to start putting them all together.
A Simple Corner
A corner is approached in stages or zones, beginning with braking. The edges of the stages are
necessarily blurred; there should be no sharp transitions between them. The exact moments of
moving from gas to brake and back should be imperceptible. Smooth transitions and where you
look are the keys to control. Figure 12A below illustrates the transitions. Figure 12B illustrates
where you should look (Dark triangle is your central vision, light triangles represent your
peripheral).
• As you approach the corner look for your braking point. The exact location of this point
will vary as your skill and confidence increase. It will also vary with conditions. Start with
a very conservative braking point, well before the turn-in point so that there is enough
time to practice the smooth release of the brake before you turn.
• At the braking point come smoothly off the gas and begin to smoothly squeeze on the
brakes, ramping up the pressure quickly to maximum braking.
• As you BRAKE, FREEZE the wheel in the straight-ahead position and turn your head to
LOOK into the corner for the turn-in point and apex. If you don’t consciously freeze the
wheel, you will tend to turn it when you turn your head. Be sure not to tilt your head, it
throws off your inner ear.
• Under maximum braking execute your heel and toe downshift. Don’t worry if you can’t
heel and toe; as you finish braking, just downshift normally, being careful to let the revs
match your speed.
• Approaching the turn-in point come smoothly off the brakes. If you find you are coasting
to the turn-in point, try a slightly later braking point next time. If you find yourself too
deep and end up fighting the corner, you have braked too late, or not hard enough.
• Locate the turn-in point with your peripheral vision and as you reach it TURN the wheel
slowly to initiate weight transfer.
• Continue looking through the corner for the apex and the exit. DIAL the wheel at a
progressively faster rate to reach the apex.
• Roll smoothly onto the throttle to BALANCE the car to the apex. Too much throttle will
push the car wide of the apex; too little will cause the car to turn too much.
• Before you reach the apex, you should be looking out of the corner for the track-out
point and the straight.
• At the apex you can begin to UNWIND the wheel to take you to the corner exit or track-
out and ACCELERATE smoothly. You should be at full throttle at or before track-out. If
you find that you do not need to go all the way to the edge of the track, you apexed too
late or, you did not accelerate enough.
NOTE: We will be using cones to mark the turn-in, apex, and exit of each corner. They are meant as a very
approximate guide to these points. Do not become fixated on driving from one to the next; it’s called
driving point-to-point and you will never be smooth driving this way.
39
Fig
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40
180-Degree Corner
Examining a slightly more complex corner, we see that the stages are the same but the apex is
much later and the distance over which you must balance the car is longer.
To sum up cornering:
- In entry phase of a corner
BRAKE… FREEZE... LOOK... TURN...DIAL… BALANCE …
BRAKE for the corner, FREEZE the position of the wheel, LOOK into the corner, TURN the wheel
a small amount to allow the weight to begin to transfer, then DIAL the wheel into the turn at a
progressively faster rate, BALANCE the car with the throttle.
- In the exit phase of the corner
LOOK…UNWIND…ACCELERATE
In the corner, LOOK ahead for the apex and exit, UNWIND the wheel smoothly, and
ACCELERATE out of the corner.
BRAKE… FREEZE... LOOK... TURN...DIAL… BALANCE … LOOK…UNWIND…ACCELERATE
EXIT
FREEZE THE WHEEL
TURN YOUR HEAD AND INTO TURNLOOK
SQUEEZE ON TO HARD BRAKINGBRAKE
BEGIN TO THE WHEEL SLOWLYTURN
DIAL THE WHEEL PROGRESSIVELY FASTER
BALANCE WITH THROTTLE
UNWIND
ACCELERATE
ACCELERATION ZO
NE
BA
LAN
CE
ZON
E
BR
AK
ING
ZO
NE
LATE APEX
TURN-IN POINT
BEGIN HEEL & TOE DOWNSHIFT
END HEEL & TOE DOWNSHIFT
EASE SMOOTHLY OFF BRAKES
LOOK FOR EXIT
LOOK THROUGH THE TURN
Figure 13 - Working a 180 Degree Corner
41
Missing the Apex
What happens if you don’t hit the apex? You’ll be either too “early,” too “late,” or “wide” – with
late being the preferred option. If you turn in too early, you’ll hit the inside of the turn before
the true apex and the line you are driving will have a large radius that will point you off track.
You’ll have to slow WAY down to make the second half of the arc a tighter radius and stay on
track. If you’re going fast enough, you may not have enough traction to keep the car on the
road, so avoid turning in too soon.
If you turn into the corner later than you should, you’ll still be off line, but you’ll stay on the
track. The radius you’ll be taking will be smaller than the ideal line, you’ll go slower, and you’ll
exit to the inside of the track out point. But at least you’ll be on the track! It’s better to be
fashionably late than uncomfortably early.
If you turn in at the correct point but haven’t shed enough speed or have not turned enough,
you will be wide of the apex. If you are going to miss the apex – miss the apex. Do not attempt
to yank your car in to the apex; you can potentially cause a spin. Being slower out of the corner
is the worst that happens if you are wide of the apex.
Types of Corners
We have discussed some very simple corners, but on the road and on the track you will
encounter a variety of different corners. In the interest of safety, you cannot go wrong by taking
all unfamiliar corners as late apexes.
Constant Radius
These are the curves we examined in the discussion about
working a corner. Their radius is the same all of the way
around. A late apex is required.
Turn 9 at AMP is a constant radius corner and requires a
very late apex.
Decreasing Radius
A decreasing radius turn is very deceptive, as it keeps getting
tighter as you go. These are often found in highway on/off
ramps.
These require a very late apex, otherwise you run out of road
before the exit. On entry, you need to be patient and stay
wide until you see the apex.
R1
R2
Figure 14 - Constant Radius
Figure 15 - Decreasing Radius
42
Increasing Radius
An increasing radius corner widens at the exit. Again, these are
frequently found in highway on/off ramps.
You can take these with a somewhat early apex and accelerate
strongly out.
Sweeper
A sweeper is a corner with a large radius and can usually be
driven very quickly.
Use as much of the road as possible and always look well
ahead through the corner.
Turn 7 at AMP is a sweeper
Double Apex
Some types of corners lend themselves to being
taken with two apexes, usually because it offers
a safer more stable line.
Turn 1 at AMP is generally taken as a double
apex.
R1
R2
Figure 16 - Increasing Radius
Figure 17 - Sweeper
Figure 18 - Double Apex
43
Compound Curve
A compound curve is a series of two or more linked
turns that should not be driven as individual curves.
The last turn is the most important; all others must
have their lines modified to accommodate the best
entry and exit for the final turn.
The inexperienced driver’s line, shown in red in Figure
19, treats each corner individually resulting in a low
exit sped from the last corner. The advanced line
shows the first two corners taken with very late
apexes to get a proper entry into the last corner. Entry
speed for the series is slower, but the line maximizes
exit speed from the last corner.
When doing linked turns it is important to keep in
mind weight transfer from side to side
Turns 4 and 5 at AMP form a compound curve leading
onto the back straight.
Figure 19 - Compound
Very Late Apex
Very Late Apex
Slightly Late Apex
Advanced Line
Beginner’s Line
Beginner’s Apex
Beginner’s Apex
Beginner’s Apex
44
The Dynamics of Car Control
Driving well is a sort of dance governed by the subtle interplay between your inputs on the
steering, brakes and throttle. Getting it right requires some understanding of how and why your
car reacts the way it does. The following sections give an overview of vehicle dynamics. Some of
it may be a little technical, but don’t get too wrapped up in the details, to start you only need a
basic sense of what is happening.
Contact Patch
Control of your vehicle depends on four small areas of
rubber, not much larger than your hand, meeting the
pavement. The contact patch is the most important aspect
of a tire. A tire’s traction on any given surface is determined
by the size of the contact patch and the downward force
exerted on that patch. All interaction between your car and
the road passes through the contact patch.
When driving, contact patch size varies with the dynamic
load placed on the tire. Much of performance driving
involves managing your contact patches and the loads
transmitted through them. This will be discussed further in
the section on Dynamic Balance.
Mechanically, you can increase the size of your contact patches by changing your wheels and
tires. Your contact patches increase as tire width and/or wheel diameter increases. Increasing
wheel diameter will have a greater effect than increasing tire width on a smaller wheel.
Slip Angle
Your car does not go exactly where you steer
because of an effect called slip angle. It is the
difference in angle between the direction of travel
of the contact patch and the direction of travel of
the wheel, as shown in Figure 21. The term is a
misnomer because slip angle develops well before
what we would normally think of as slip (i.e. a tire
sliding over the pavement). Slip angle occurs
because a tire is an elastic body behaving as a
complex three-dimensional spring. A full
discussion of tire behaviour is far too complex to
discuss here, but in essence, lateral force from
cornering and torsion introduced by steering
deform the tire creating a difference between
where the contact patch is going and where the wheel is
going.
A vehicle that exhibits low slip angles will be considered to handle well. The ratios between the
slip angles of the front and rear of a vehicle will determine its behaviour in a turn. If the ratio of
Slip Angle
Direction of Wheel
Direction of VehicleTravel
Cornering Force
Front
Rear
Figure 20 - Tire Contact Patches
Figure 21 - Slip Angle
45
front to rear slip angles is greater than 1:1, the vehicle will tend to resist turning (understeer),
while a ratio of less than 1:1 will turn more than the steering input (oversteer).
Street vehicles are built with ratios slightly greater than 1:1. A slightly understeering vehicle is
more stable and inherently safer to drive. An inherently oversteering vehicle is exhausting to
drive and potentially dangerous. We will discuss understeer, oversteer, and the effects of weight
transfer in more detail in following sections.
Most cars will handle neutrally at a moderate speed while cornering. Tighter corners, where you
go relatively slower, tend to promote understeer, while oversteer prevails in higher speed
corners. Cars that understeer slightly at low speeds tend to become neutral at higher speeds
Slip angle is not fixed; a significant portion is inherent to the vehicle’s design, but a large portion
is determined by the way you drive. Your inputs contribute to dynamic weight transfer under
braking, cornering, and accelerating. Transferring weight to the front increases the slip angles at
the rear increasing the tendency to oversteer. Transferring weight to the rear increases the slip
angles at the front increasing the tendency to understeer. These weight transfers are
unavoidable, but you can manage how they happen by being smooth.
Maximum slip angle is reached when the cornering force approaches the tire’s traction limit, a
point at which you can hear a faint squeal from the tires. When the traction limit is exceeded,
slip turns into slide, and the tire scrubs the road sideways with a loud screech.
A car cornering neutrally with all wheels slipping evenly will crab slightly sideways. This is known
as four wheel drift.
For our purposes, we can consider that four factors affect the slip angle of a wheel:
1. The side force acting on the wheel. The tighter the turn the greater the side force.
2. Weight transfer affects slip angle. It is reduced if weight on that wheel is increased, such
as the front wheels during braking. Conversely, unloading the rear wheels increases their
slip angles.
3. Any outward tilt, or positive camber, of the wheel during cornering decreases the contact
patch and increases the slip angle.
4. Increased tire pressure will reduce the slip angle. Less will increase it.
At the track, we have a limited ability to change slip angles mechanically, beyond adjusting tire
pressures. We do have a significant ability to affect slip angles by the way we drive.
Smooth, Smooth, Smooth
46
The Friction Circle
A tire can generate a fixed amount grip on a given surface. You can use 100% of it in a straight
line for accelerating or braking. You can use 100% of it laterally for cornering. And you can use
100% of it for some combination of longitudinal and lateral forces.
The friction circle is a concept developed in the sixties by the racer Mark Donohue, Paul van
Valkenburgh and the Chevrolet R&D department to illustrate the limits of grip while
accelerating, braking, or cornering. The forces are represented in g’s or multiples of the force of
gravity.
The friction circle is nearly a perfect circle for a tire. The friction circle shown in Figure 23
represents the overall behaviour for a vehicle. It is not round because a street vehicle’s
acceleration ability is generally significantly lower than the available grip. A car capable of
accelerating at 1g would reach 200 mph in a ¼ mile. Porsche’s flagship 918 hits about 145 mph
on the ¼ in 10.0 seconds, so it accelerates at about 0.8g, but it can corner at more than 1g. By
comparison, a Boxster S can accelerate at just over 0.5g and corner at just under 1 g. A top-fuel
dragster accelerates at more than 3gs, but don’t ask it to turn.
The graph illustrates the limits at an instant in time. The actual maximum capabilities vary with
the surface, the tire, the temperature, tire loading and a host of other variables. Learning to
manage the grip capabilities of your vehicle is an essential part of performance driving.
The inexperienced driver’s curve illustrated above falls inside the vehicle capability curve
because novice driver inputs reduce the size of the circle through lack of smoothness and less
than optimal weight transfer.
1g 1gLH Cornering Capability RH Cornering Capability
Vehicle Capability Curve
Inexperienced Driver’s
Curve
Acceleration
Braking1g
0.85 Braking
0.5 Cornering
0.7 Braking
0.7 Cornering
.5g
Figure 22 - The Friction Circle
47
A tire’s interaction with the road is complex. In a turn, there is a combination of differential
gripping and slipping occurring across the contact patch. It may seem counter-intuitive, but
maximum grip occurs with a small percentage of slip, typically in the 12-14% range.
Wet conditions severely reduce the size of the friction circle as shown by the green line in Figure
23. Without hydroplaning, wet roads typically reduce grip available for acceleration by 30%, for
braking by 50%, and for cornering by 80%. With hydroplaning, grip effectively goes to zero.
Slide
A tire begins to slide at the instant the forces acting on it
push it outside of its friction circle.
Figure 24 illustrates what occurs when simultaneously
braking and turning. Neither force individually exceeds
the tire’s limits, but the resultant of the two does.
Preventing or recovering from a slide requires reducing
one or both of these forces.
The consequences of exceeding the friction limits will be
discussed in the following sections on understeer and
oversteer.
1g 1gLH Cornering Capability RH Cornering Capability
Vehicle Capability Curve
Inexperienced Driver’s
Curve
Acceleration
Braking1g
0.85 Braking
0.5 Cornering
0.7 Braking
0.7 Cornering
.5g
WET GRIP
Cornering Force
Tire Traction Limit
Braking Force
Total ForceExceeds Traction Limit
Figure 23 - The Friction Circle - Dry & Wet
Figure 24 - Slide
48
Understeer
A vehicle understeers when it does not turn as much as desired. This occurs because the vehicle
has less grip at the front than the rear (Slip angle ratio greater than 1:1). Understeer is also
known as push, or plough, or being tight. Street
vehicles are designed to understeer.
Typically understeer is exacerbated by:
• Too fast an entry into the corner
• Abrupt inputs
• Insufficient grip because of changing
conditions (e.g. wet, marbles, tires going
off)
Slight understeer can often be corrected by lifting gently off the throttle to transfer weight onto
the front wheels. Next time through the corner, lower your entry speed and try to be smoother
on your inputs.
In the case of heavy understeer you have probably already turned the wheel much more than is
normally required for the curve. An appropriate response is to look where you want to go,
straighten the wheel somewhat and lift gently off the gas. If you don’t straighten the wheel, you
can shift directly to oversteer when grip is recovered.
You may not be able to recover from heavy understeer. If it is apparent that you are going off
track; drive off as straight as you can, slow to a safe speed, and cautiously return to the track.
Oversteer
A vehicle oversteers when it turns more than desired because there is less grip at the rear (Slip
angle ratio less than 1:1). The rear of the vehicle wants to be the front and that leads to spins. A
vehicle that oversteers is said to be loose, or sometimes words that are much more colourful.
Street cars and many race cars are built to inherently understeer. It is a much more stable and
safer condition. The more performance oriented the vehicle the more likely it is to exhibit nearly
neutral handling with a slight tendency to understeer.
Oversteer is the reason your best tires always go on the rear, regardless of which are your drive
wheels. A vehicle with its best tires on the front is
inherently unstable.
Typical causes of sudden oversteer are:
• Over-braking into the corner
• Suddenly lifting off the throttle while turning (lift
throttle, or trailing throttle oversteer)
• Too much throttle, too soon while exiting a corner
Figure 25 - Understeer
Figure 26 - Oversteer
49
An oversteer skid can usually be corrected, but your ability to catch it depends on early
detection. Early detection depends on looking far enough ahead to sense changes in the
vehicle’s attitude. Looking too close and relying on your inner ear to sense the change in
attitude will make you react too late.
To correct an oversteer skid:
• Maintain a steady throttle - do not lift. Lifting makes it worse.
• Look where you want to go and turn into the skid
• Pause briefly to let the suspension unload
• Accelerate gently to transfer weight to the rear
• Be prepared for a rebound skid or fish tail going the other way - usually a result of not
pausing to let the suspension unload.
When Things Go Wrong
We have discussed what do to correct a skid, but sometimes that correction isn’t enough and
you are going off track. The thing to do is put the clutch to the floor to decouple the driveline,
hit the brakes as hard as you can so the wheels lock, and hold. The phrase to remember is:
IN A SPIN – BOTH FEET IN
When you have come to a stop count to ten and release the pedals. The count is necessary
because a spin is disorienting and it can be difficult to tell if you are actually stopped. Releasing
the pedals before you are stopped can have unpredictable consequences. If you don’t have a
clutch, jam your left foot hard against the floor.
A spinning car with locked wheels will travel in a straight line and stop in the shortest possible
distance. Unlocked wheels will give an unpredictable trajectory.
50
Dynamic Weight Transfer
Parked, your vehicle has a fixed weight distribution determined by gravity, but when moving it’s
a different story. What you do with the throttle, the brake, and the steering wheel affects the
grip capability of your vehicle by introducing a new combination of forces. The effects of these
forces change the attitude of the vehicle, its weight distribution and consequently the size of the
contact patches, the slip angles, and the grip at each corner. Figures 27 - 31 illustrate the effects
of these forces. Learning how to use these changing forces to your advantage is essential to
driving well.
Constant Speed
Neglecting aerodynamic effects, a vehicle moving
at a constant speed will have forces acting on it in
such a way that its weight distribution will be
essentially the same as when it is parked.
Accelerating
Acceleration introduces a new force, effectively
shifting the weight distribution rearward. The
nose of your vehicle rises and the rear sinks. The
rear contact patches become larger increasing the
available grip. The front contact patches shrink
reducing the grip available for turning. (Slip angle
ratio increases)
This effect improves the acceleration ability of a
rear wheel drive car and decreases the ability of a
front wheel drive.
Braking
Braking alters the forces in the opposite way,
effectively shifting the weight distribution forward.
The nose goes down and the rear comes up. Grip
increases at the front and decreases at the rear. (Slip
angle ratio decreases)
That little lurch you feel as you come to a stop at a
light, if you don’t release the brake, is the nose of
your car coming back up abruptly as the weight shifts
back. Next time you come to a red light watch the
rear of the car ahead of you settle back down.
FORCE
CONSTANT SPEED
FORCE
ACCELERATION
FORCE
BRAKING
Figure 27 - Constant Speed Weight Distribution
Figure 28 - Accelerating Weight Transfer
Figure 29 - Braking Weight Transfer
51
Cornering
Cornering forces cause the weight distribution
to shift to the outer side. Abrupt turning
inputs will exacerbate the shift reducing your
cornering grip.
Automotive engineers put a great deal of
effort into suspension design to limit the
transfer of weight from the inside, so four
tires do the work not just two.
Cornering and Braking
Simultaneous cornering and braking causes a
more complex distribution of forces.
Effectively, weight shifts forward from braking
and outward from cornering; putting most of
the load on the outside front tire. The
reduction in grip at the other three tires can
create an unstable condition resulting in a
spin. This is why we emphasize getting your
braking done in a straight line.
Momentum, Feel & Rhythm
Our objective in cornering is to give up as little speed as possible, conserving momentum, while
still navigating the corner safely. Conserving momentum minimizes the time it takes to corner
and the power required to accelerate out.
Low powered cars are often referred to as momentum cars. These cars cannot be lapped quickly
without learning to conserve momentum through the corner. A driver cannot compensate for
lost speed in the entry by powering out. A high-powered car reduces the need to conserve
momentum by relying on its power to accelerate out of the corner. Arguably, all cars are
momentum cars. A driver who has learned to conserve momentum will always be quicker than
one who relies on power to get out of a corner.
Learning to conserve momentum takes time and confidence in your car control skills. It would
appear to violate the Slow in – Fast out rule, but does not. In this rule, slow is a relative term.
Ideally, it is the highest speed at which you can safely navigate the entry of the corner. Initially ,
you will not be able to attain this speed, but as your skills and confidence build, you will
approach this speed. Getting there requires you to be very smooth and have finesse with your
braking. It takes time to reach this level, possibly many track days. If you have a high-power car,
you may never really learn it unless you consciously practice it.
Figure 30 - Cornering Weight Transfer
Figure 31 - Cornering & Braking Weight Transfer
Acadia Region PCA – Version 1.0 2015 52
Momentum gives you feel; the connection between you, your car and the road. In any given
curve, each car has its own unique responses that do not become apparent below a minimum
level of momentum. Below that level your car will feel numb and unresponsive, needing to be
driven through the corner. Above that level, the car talks to you and needs only to be guided
with minimal inputs.
As you drive the track you begin to build a rhythm that connects one turn to the next. This
rhythm helps you build the connection between you, your car, and the track. Building rhythm
requires focus and it is easy to lose your rhythm by making errors in a corner. You cannot
maintain it if you are thinking back to the last corner. Don’t dwell on mistakes, just try to not
repeat them on the next lap.
Driving in the Rain
We run our DEs in Nova Scotia; sooner or later it’s going to rain – probably sooner. We’ve
discussed the factors that contribute to why you must be smooth to get the most from your car.
Driving in the rain ups the ante by reducing available grip significantly.
Driving in the rain at a DE is a tremendous learning experience; it forces you to focus on being
smooth at lower speeds than in the dry. What you learn in one wet track session could save your
life on the highway.
For AMP the wet line is essentially the same as the dry line. At other tracks, it can be very
different; with the wet line being everywhere the dry line is not. This is the result of
accumulated rubber, oil and other fluids on the dry line becoming slippery in the wet.
Beware of standing water or streams that can cause hydroplaning. Generally, shiny equals bad.
If your tires are worn to the wear bars, it is best if you stay off the track in the rain.
53
Performance Driving Wisdom
The Four Simple Truths
1. Your car can go faster in a straight line than on a curve
2. You can drive faster on a big circle than a little one
3. Your car brakes much better than it accelerates
4. You are not exempt from the laws of physics
The Eleven Commandments
1. Look where you want to go.
2. Be smooth
3. Be balanced
4. Slow in – Fast out
5. Do not apex early
6. Use all of the track
7. Focus
8. Be consistent
9. Pay attention to traffic
10. Give clear signals
11. In a spin – Both feet in
54
Section 3 - Advanced Concepts and Techniques
Conflicting Instructor Advice
If this is not your first event, you may find that your instructor’s advice is different, or you may
perceive it to be different, from what your previous instructor has told you. No two instructors
are the same and they will have a different perspective of what you are doing and need to do.
This is natural, even desirable, in a one-on-one teaching situation. Car control basics don’t
change, but our instructors come from a variety of driving backgrounds and will have a different
take on some lines. Over time, they have taken the basics and developed a style that works for
them.
Driving is a skill that cannot be easily put into words, which is why we use in-car instructors.
Their instruction is necessarily simplified for efficacy and their perspective changes what kind of
simplification is necessary.
Keep in mind that you are not the same driver you were at previous events; you have learned
new skills and had time to absorb and apply them. As you develop your skills, the advice needed
changes; rough edges that were tolerable when first learning a skill will need to be polished off
as speed and confidence increase.
Keep in mind that your instructor's first priority is safety. Whether you go as fast as possible is
irrelevant and likely detrimental to learning. Any time an instructor feels uncomfortable with
something you are doing, they will suggest a change - advice that can be hazardous to ignore.
Occasionally, those changes may make you feel uncomfortable, in which case you should slow
things down a bit, for safety, when you try them. For example, your instructor wants you to try a
different line through a corner, because it is either a safer line or a line that is just as safe, but
faster. You are accustomed to your old line at a certain speed and the new line is apt to make
you initially uncomfortable. Try the new line at a lower speed until you can do it consistently
and comfortably, then you can increase the pace. This approach will help you judge whether the
change is an improvement or not.
Learning to drive well takes time, and you should expect that it will take many schools, and
working with many different instructors, before you fuse together all the advice you've gotten
into a unique style you can call your own.
55
More on Vehicle Dynamics
Complex Weight Transfer
Earlier we discussed the basics of dynamic weight transfer and how it relates to control. That
discussion assumed that we were working with a horizontal surface. Here we will look at what
happens when the surface is inclined and consider some examples from AMP.
Downhill
A downward incline transfers
weight to the front wheels; the
greater the slope, the greater the
transfer. At a steady speed on a
steep incline your car can feel
nervous and unsettled. Your
solution is accelerating gently to
transfer weight to the rear
wheels. At AMP, this helps
stabilize your car on the downhill
between Turns 1 & 2.
Braking increases the weight
transfer making it very important
to be sensitive to your car’s
attitude in downhill braking zones.
If you add turning to the mix, you
create a situation that requires finesse. The downhill gives you better grip at the front and
turning transfers weight to the outside front tire. This aids in turning, but the corresponding
unloading of the rear tires greatly reduces their ability to resist lateral loads. The potential for a
spin on a downhill corner is significantly higher than on a flat corner. Attacking a downhill corner
aggressively can be a recipe for disaster – you absolutely must be smooth with your inputs.
Turn 1 at AMP is a prime example of the type of corner where this is an issue. You have an
inclined braking zone at the end of a high-speed straight followed by a steep downhill turn. This
is a big contributor to why we now treat this as a double apex corner. The old single apex
approach required a sharper turn-in and a balancing act to keep the rear in place.
Figure 32 - Downhill Weight Transfer
56
Uphill
An upward slope increases the weight
transfer to the rear wheels, making
the car feel more stable and giving
more grip for acceleration and
braking. The downside of uphill is the
reduction of front wheel grip results
in a tendency to understeer.
An uphill turn can be approached
aggressively because of the more
even weight distribution under
braking. The issue becomes getting
out of the turn since the rearward
weight bias limits your ability to accelerate
out of the corner without running wide.
The left portion of Figure 33 illustrates the weight distribution when accelerating and turning
uphill. The right portion illustrates the effect on the front wheels of changing the slope direction.
This is exactly what happens cresting the top of Turn 5 at AMP. You are simultaneously
accelerating and turning up the hill and then the track drops away from your front wheels as you
crest. Your suspension cannot instantaneously follow the track and your cornering grip will be
reduced until it can catch up. To counter this effect, you must be cautious accelerating up the
hill and unwind the wheel quickly at the apex to get to the right edge of the track.
The initial unloading of the front wheels at the crest is soon followed by a forward weight
transfer as the rear passes the crest. If you have not unwound the wheel to get to the right edge
of the track, the unloading of the rear can cause oversteer and potentially a spin.
Off Camber/Banked
Camber describes the slope of the track across its width. A turn is said to be off camber or have
negative camber if it slopes away from you as you turn. An off camber turn must be taken more
slowly than a flat turn because the outward slope exacerbates the unloading of your inside tires.
A positive camber or banked corner slopes toward you as you turn. It can be taken more quickly
than a flat turn because the inward slope gives a more even distribution of weight to all four
tires.
Turn 4 at AMP is off camber, with the additional complication of being downhill. The downhill
increases your front-end grip, but the negative camber reduces it. Getting around this corner is
an exercise in managing your front end. The car must be well settled before you begin the turn
and you must be very smooth coming off the brakes, otherwise you will have given up too much
front wheel grip. In the turn, you can roll the throttle on until the tires begin to squeal or the
front begins to run wide - that is the limit of adhesion.
Turn 11 is uphill and banked slightly around the apex. The banking improves your cornering grip
while the uphill reduces it. You can accelerate strongly from the apex and unwind to track out,
but you must beware that too much acceleration will push you wide. If you early apex this
corner the banking will not work for you and you will quickly run out of track.
ACCELERATION
Figure 33 - Uphill Weight Transfer
57
Polar Moment of Inertia
Every component in your car has mass and the way these
masses are distributed in your car affect the way it turns.
Essentially, big hunks of metal influence your car’s
behaviour depending on how far away they are from the
car’s centre of mass. The effect of these masses is described
by the term polar moment of inertia. If a vehicle has a high
polar moment it resists turning, while one with a low polar
moment turns easily.
The largest single mass in a car is its engine and its location
dominates the polar moment. A front engine car (Mustang)
or rear engine car (911), with their engines outside the
wheelbase, are high polar moment cars. Mid-engine cars,
with most of their engine’s mass inside the wheelbase, have
a lower polar moment. Mid-engine cars may be rear-mid
(Boxster) or front-mid (Corvette).
Weight distribution is independent of polar moment. A
50/50 weight distribution does not necessarily mean that a
car has a low polar moment. A barbell has a 50/50 weight
distribution, but a very high polar moment.
Front and rear engine cars take some persuasion to turn.
Once you have a front engine car pointed, it will tend to
stay pointed. A rear engine car will want to keep rotating
and will require some managing. Porsche has put a huge
amount of engineering effort into keeping the rear of a
911 where it is.
A mid-engine car requires less effort to turn and will feel more nimble. You must be more
delicate turning a mid-engine car. Early mid-engine cars had a tendency to spin if handled
roughly. Boxsters and the like are very stable, but still require some finesse.
Automotive design is always a compromise between handling and performance. As an example,
engine size affects both characteristics. A bigger more powerful engine allows you to have
greater acceleration, but increases the polar moment and makes the car less nimble. A smaller
engine makes the car handle better, but limits acceleration. Engineers can reduce polar moment
with a mid-engine design, but the engine location inside the wheelbase limits the space
available for a more powerful engine.
Front Engine - High Polar Moment
Mid-Engine - Low Polar Moment
Rear Engine - High Polar Moment
Figure 34 - Polar Moment of Inertia
58
Advanced Techniques
Heel and Toe Downshifting
Entering a corner often requires you to brake and shift at the same time. If you are braking AND
downshifting, your right foot is on the brake and your left is on the clutch. With the clutch pedal
down, the engine revs drop and when the clutch is re-engaged in a lower gear, the low revs of
the engine slow the faster spinning drive wheels, and may result in “chirping” of the tires and
sometimes skidding.
The solution to this rev-matching issue is Heel and Toe downshifting. Don’t get too wrapped up
in the name; it’s a bit of a misnomer dating from an earlier time. Depending on the pedal set-up
of your car, you may actually use the side of your foot instead of your heel. Figure 35 illustrates
the steps in the process for a 3-2 downshift.
• As you enter your braking zone, apply the brakes with the ball of your right foot firmly
on the pedal.
• Engage the clutch all the way to the floor with your left foot
• Pull the shifter into neutral with your fingers
• Roll/rotate your right foot so your heel or the edge of your foot can give a sharp blip to
the throttle. You need to do this without changing the pressure on the brakes.
• Pull the shifter into the lower gear
• Release the clutch smoothly
It takes practice to get a feel for the blip required to get a smooth shift. Too much of a blip will
cause the car to jump forward when the clutch is released. Too little and the rear wheels will
chirp as they try to get up to speed. Modified cars with a lightweight clutch/flywheel assembly
will require a large blip – the low mass allows revs to climb quickly, but they come down just as
quickly.
Heel and Toe is best learned on the street. A high-speed corner entry is not the place to learn a
technique that can throw off the balance of your car.
The first thing you need to do is get a feel for how you can blip the throttle with the ball of your
foot on the brake. Sit in your car with the engine running and the shifter in neutral. Place the
ball of your foot on the brake and roll or rotate it so you can operate the throttle. When you
have a feel for this you can take it to the street.
On the street the process is as described above, but the speeds are lower and you are braking
with much less pressure. Your brake pedal will be higher than when you are on track and it may
make reaching the gas pedal trickier. On track, the pedal position is often better aligned for
blipping the gas. Pre-996 model 911s have a factory-set pedal position where the brake pedal is
very high, making heel and toe on the street difficult. Fortunately, the pedal heights are
adjustable and with a little effort, you can lower the brake and raise the gas to facilitate heel
and toe on the street. Be careful if you do this since it is possible to lower the brake too far.
59
1 3 5
2 4 6
N
1 3 5
2 4 6
N
1 3 5
2 4 6
N
1 3 5
2 4 6
N
1 3 5
2 4 6
N
1 3 5
2 4 6
N
1 - Finish Acceleration 2 - Begin Braking
3 - Depress Clutch & Pull Shifter to Neutral 4 - Rotate right foot and blip throttle with edge of foot
or heel
5 - Pull Shifter into lower gear and release clutch 6 - Resume Acceleration
Figure 35 - Heel and Toe Down Shifting
60
Trail Braking
Trail braking is a subtle technique that allows for later braking, increased corner entry speed,
and improved turn-in. If you can’t walk and chew gum at the same time, this technique is not for
you.
Classic threshold braking is done in a straight line prior to turn-in. This is a safer and easier
technique because it separates traction management into two distinct phases – braking and
cornering. In trail braking you carry some braking into the corner, gradually trailing off the
brakes while winding in the steering.
Since braking continues in the corner, it is possible to delay braking on the preceding straight
(Figure 36). Since it eliminates the sub-optimal moments between easing out of the brakes and
easing into cornering by overlapping them, entry speeds can be higher. The combination of
these effects means that the advantage of later braking is carried through the first part of the
corner. Unfortunately, the gain from trail braking is small and it must be done exactly right,
otherwise the gain is erased in corner exit.
Trail braking strongly affects the dynamic balance of your car, placing the major load on the
outside front wheel. Done right, it can be helpful in getting your car to rotate into the turn. Done
incorrectly, it can induce a spin.
Trail braking works best in low and medium speed corners. It doesn’t work well in bumpy
corners or in very fast corners because it changes the pitch attitude of the car.
1
2
Pit Ou
t
BRAKE
BRAKE
TRAIL BRAKING
TR
AIL B
RA
KIN
G
MARSHAL STAND
ORIGINAL BRAKING POINT
ORIGINAL BRAKING POINT
Figure 36 - Trail Braking
61
As with most driving skills, it is difficult to get a feel for the limits without exceeding them from
time to time. However, exceeding the limits of trail braking has some of the worst
consequences; typically worse than mistakes at corner exit. Errors in trail braking give too high
an entry speed and an inappropriate angular attitude in the corner. This is generally followed by
immediate probing of the under and oversteer characteristics of your car and a pop-quiz on your
car control skills.
From the beginning, we have emphasised making smooth seamless transitions between braking
and turning-in. This blending of functions represents the very beginning of trail braking. Before
you attempt trail braking you must have mastered this transition.
Work into developing this skill gradually. Approach corners at a lower speed than usual, working
on carrying a little brake as you turn into the corner. Try to get a feel for how it affects the pitch
and rotation of the car. As you become more comfortable, you can work on moving up your
braking point and carry more brake farther into the turn.
Note: Acadia Instructors will not teach trail braking to any driver who has not shown
consistent mastery of the correct braking technique, particularly to one who has not fully
mastered the gentle release of the brake pedal.
62
Left Foot Braking
Left foot braking is a simple concept that can be difficult in execution – using your left foot to
brake while your right remains on the gas. Done correctly, it produces smooth transitions
between throttle and brake. In a manual car it can only be used if no downshift is required, with
automatics it can be used anywhere.
This technique should only be attempted after the basic car control skills have been mastered. It
requires sensitivity in your left foot that takes time to develop. Your left foot is accustomed to
mashing the clutch and has never developed the fine control of your right.
Before you try it on the track, try it on the street on a straight. As with any new skill, it should
not be practiced at your normal speed, slow down and get it right. It takes time to develop the
sensitivity necessary.
The technique is as follows:
• Approaching the corner, move your left foot gently to the brake
• Brake at the usual point
• Apply moderate power
• When slowed enough ease out of the brakes
• Apply power
It may not be possible in some newer cars. The runaway Prius debacle has resulted in some
manufacturers installing an override that kills the throttle when the brakes are applied. If your
car has an override, you could try:
• Approaching the corner come off the power as you normally would
• Apply the brakes
• Apply moderate power
Depending on the system in your car this may not work either. You should determine this on the
street.
If you have been experiencing issues with brake fade during normal braking, avoid left foot
braking with power applied through the braking zone. This process generates extra heat in your
brakes and will make fade issues worse.
63
TRADITIONAL MIRROR SETTING TECHNIQUE
BLIND SPOT
BLIND SPOT
SAE MIRROR SETTING TECHNIQUE
Figure 37 - Avoiding Blind Spots
Reducing Blind Spots
In days past, we were taught to set our outside mirrors so the sides of our car were just visible in
the inside edge of the door mirrors. While easy to do, this technique creates serious blind spots
that make lane changing difficult and requires your head be on a swivel. Figure 37 A below
illustrates the blind spots created by the traditional technique. Approaching cars in adjacent
lanes are visible at a distance in your outside mirrors, but as they get close they disappear
because your field of view is too narrow with far too much overlap.
In the mid-nineties, an engineer with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) realized it was
possible to make the fields of view of the three mirrors overlap in a way that greatly increases
the total field of view and greatly reduces blind spots. In Figure 37 B we can see the
improvement. All three approaching cars are initially visible in the centre mirror. As they get
closer, the red and orange cars pass from the centre mirror to the side mirrors. They remain in
the side mirrors much longer than with the traditional method and as they pass out of the side
mirrors, they become visible in your peripheral vision.
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The SAE technique aims to slightly overlap the individual mirrors fields of view to give one broad
field of view. There are two ways to set the mirrors:
Technique #1
1. Set your inside mirror to look directly behind.
2. Place your head against the driver’s door glass and set the driver’s mirror so that you
can just see the side of the car in the right edge of the mirror.
3. Move your head toward the centre of the car and adjust the right mirror until you can
just see the side of the car in the left side of the mirror.
Technique #2
1. Set your inside mirror to look directly behind.
2. Find an object several car lengths behind you just visible in the left corner of your inside
mirror.
3. Adjust your driver’s side mirror until the object is just visible in the right corner of the
mirror.
4. Find another object visible in the right corner of the inside mirror
5. Adjust your right mirror until the object is visible in the left corner of the mirror.
These techniques do not entirely eliminate blind spots. Figure 37 B shows two narrow blind
spots that could potentially hide a motorcycle or bicycle very close to your bumper, but not a
car. The size of this blind spot varies from vehicle to vehicle.
If you are accustomed to seeing the sides of your car in the outside mirrors, these new settings
will take some time to get used to.
These settings do not entirely eliminate having to shoulder check, but they do greatly reduce
how far you must turn your head.
The settings work well if there is one lane to either side of you, as shown in Figure 37. However,
if you are on a highway with more lanes, you must shoulder check for the far lanes.
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Safety & Performance Modifications
The following topics are not a concern for the Novice or Beginner driver. Once you have several
events under your belt, you may want to consider some of the changes mentioned below. Keep
in mind that the most important performance modification you can make is improving your
driving skills. Performance modifications made too soon can be detrimental to improving your
skills. If you absolutely must make mechanical modifications, consider doing them in this order:
tires, brakes, suspension, power.
Tires
Tires are a subject of endless debate. However, any good quality street tires are entirely
adequate for DE events. Without track experience, you won't be using any tires to their
performance limits. Learning the feel of your car with street tires aids in developing sensitivity
and will teach you how the car feels and behaves as you approach the limits of adhesion. We
discourage novice drivers from using track tires since their very high grip levels cover driver
errors and make learning the handling characteristics of your car difficult.
Starting out with your car in stock configuration will give you a baseline for comparison so that
once you get track experience you will be better able to judge the impact of a tire upgrade on
your performance. Any of the high-performance street tires will give you very good performance
on the track in dry and wet conditions and will allow driving to and from the event without
worry.
Acadia Region’s technical requirements do not permit mixing tire brands, models, or speed
ratings. Mixing and matching tires can have unpredictable handling consequences.
As you become more experienced, you may want to try tires with higher performance. If your
car is also used on the street you have a few choices; you can fit high performance street tires,
or you can fit R-compound track tires that are street legal (DOT approved), but wear more
quickly than street tires. Alternatively, you could get a second set of rims and fit dedicated track
tires. As you attend more DE events, ask plenty of questions and make your own decisions.
Brake Pads
Original equipment Porsche brake pads are adequate for the first couple of years of DE
participation. The only thing you have to worry about is having sufficient life left in the pads for
a couple of days of hard use. Pad thickness will be inspected during the pre-event vehicle tech
inspection. Bring extra pads to the track – they’re very easy to change, so simply ask for
assistance if it’s new to you.
Performance “track pads” come in all styles and heat ranges, depending on your driving style
and vehicle weight. They provide considerably more stopping power when hot, but typically
very little stopping power when cold. Most beginners don’t generate enough heat in their
brakes to get track pads up to temperature and therefore get poorer brake performance. Very
aggressive pads with tremendous stopping power create extreme brake rotor wear.
‘Stopping Power’ in this instance refers to the ability of your pads to get you to the braking
threshold. Performance pads give better response, repeatability, and fade resistance than OEM
pads. Actual stopping distance is always limited by your tires.
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Track pads are not suitable for the street because of their heat requirements. At street
operating temperatures they do not stop well and can be very noisy, making a high-pitched
squeal every time you brake.
Many people who ultimately opt for the increased stopping power of track pads change the
pads at the end of the driver school before driving home. Put track pads into the category with
sticky track tires - future considerations for performance improvement.
Brake Fluid
Brake fluid is a hydraulic fluid used to transform pressure on the brake pedal into the clamping
action of the brake pads onto the rotors. Driving at the track causes brakes to get very hot. After
all, the purpose of brakes is conversion of your car’s kinetic energy to heat. Some of the heat is
dissipated by the large metal mass of rotors, some is dissipated by the airflow over the rotors,
but some heat is transferred through the brake pads to the calipers and the brake fluid in the
calipers.
Unfortunately, brake fluid is hygroscopic; it absorbs water from the atmosphere. The longer it
has been in your system, the more water it will have absorbed. Brake fluid has a very high
boiling point (often over 400 °F) but water doesn’t. If the heat transferred to the fluid causes
any water in the fluid to boil, steam is generated forming bubbles in the fluid. Brake fluid is not
compressible, but bubbles are. The result is the brake pedal starting to get “soft” and eventually
going to the floor with no braking power at all. If you feel your brake pedal going soft, slow
down, pump the pedal a few times to get full braking effect back and pull in to the pits as soon
as possible.
High performance ‘racing’ brake fluids are available which offer a higher dry boiling point and a
higher factor of safety against boiling on the track. Unfortunately, it is more hygroscopic than
stock original equipment brake fluid (i.e. absorbs moisture more rapidly), and it has a lower wet
boiling point. Therefore, racing brake fluid needs changing much more often.
DOT5 silicone brake fluid is not permitted. Where other fluids absorb water, silicone fluid
absorbs air. It is primarily used for vehicles in long-term storage.
If you become a DE regular, change your brake fluid for each event and use a high-quality, high
boiling point brake fluid.
When bleeding brakes or changing brake fluid, never leave the open bottle sitting around and
don’t use previously opened bottles.
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Suspension Settings
When you have gained some experience, you may want to change some of your Porsche’s
handling characteristics. Without mastery of the fundamentals of driving, particularly
consistency, fiddling with suspension variables can be an exercise in frustration. You probably
will not be able to accurately gauge the effects of changes.
Your suspension and its behaviour are a complex system; changes must be made methodically –
one thing at a time. Some adjustments, like tire pressure, are easy to do at the track while
others are more difficult. Be aware that some of these changes may result in increased tire wear
and other issues. Talking to other drivers to see what they do can be very useful.
Suspension Component Reduce Understeer -
Increase Oversteer
Reduce Oversteer -
Increase Understeer
Front Tire Pressure Higher Lower
Rear Tire Pressure Lower Higher
Front Tire Width Wider Narrower
Rear Tire Width Narrower Wider
Front Track Wider Narrower
Rear Track Narrower Wider
Front Wheel Camber More Negative More Positive
Rear Wheel Camber More Positive More Negative
Front Shock Setting Softer Harder
Rear Shock Setting Harder Softer
Front Spring Rate Lighter Heavier
Rear Spring Rate Heavier Lighter
Front Sway Bar Lighter Heavier
Rear Sway Bar Heavier Lighter
Front Spoiler Larger or more angle Smaller or less angle
Rear Spoiler Smaller or less angle Larger or more angle
Weight Distribution More Rearward More Forward
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Harnesses, Seat and Roll Bar/Cage
These three topics are covered together here because current thinking considers them a safety
system. Harnesses may not be used without seats designed to accommodate them, and if you
do have an appropriate seat and harness, a roll bar or roll cage is strongly recommended to
complete the safety system.
Once you have done a few events and your cornering speeds increase, you may find yourself
bracing yourself against parts of the car. The stock seat belts are good, but cornering and
braking from high speed ideally calls for a harness to keep you firmly in your seat. Most popular
are 5-or 6-point harnesses. Four point harnesses are unsafe and no longer permitted.
PCA requires that all cars equipped with a 5 or 6-point safety harness must have appropriate
seats. You may not use a 5 or 6-point harness with stock factory seats unless the seat contains
factory installed routing holes for the shoulder belts and the anti-submarining straps. These
generally provide more support when cornering and may be lighter, saving some weight
compared to the stock seats. However, they may not be so comfortable for those long drives on
the street and the very large bolsters may make it difficult to use the 3-point factory belts.
Porsche now makes as a factory option; a sport seat that has the correct routing holes for use
with a harness. Other drivers will be happy to discuss their choice of seat with you and allow you
to see how you’ll fit in their car.
If you use harnesses in an air bag equipped car, you must either: have a seatbelt tab to insert
into the 3-point harness latch, or buckle the 3-point belt and sit on it. Failure to do this results in
lowering the airbag trigger threshold because the car believes you are unbelted.
PCA requires that driver and passenger have equal restraints. The same or better seat and
harnesses must be available for the passenger.
Some participants may have installed a harness bar to ensure proper routing of their harnesses.
Harnesses may not be attached directly to the bar; they are for routing only. Harnesses must be
attached to secure mounting points.
The likelihood of a rollover accident is very small, but it can happen. If you have installed seats
and harnesses, you will be firmly strapped in your seat and it will be impossible to bend out of
the way of the roof. While the roof pillars on your Porsche are very strong, a roll bar or roll cage
should be installed for extra safety. A roll bar is typically a steel hoop bolted or welded to the
body and extending above and behind the driver. A roll cage extends the roll bar along the
roofline, down the A-pillars and usually anchoring on the front door sills. Roll cages are primarily
intended for dedicated race cars and are not generally used in street cars because of the
difficulty of getting in and out of the car and the fact that unless strapped in with the racing
harness, there is the chance of hitting the steel tubing in the event of a street accident. If you
install a roll cage, you must use a Snell SA rated helmet.
Driving Shoes
You should consider getting a good pair of driving shoes for three reasons. First, they have a
rubber sole that provides good traction so your feet stay on the pedals. Second, the soles are
thin enough that you can “feel” the pedals and sense what the car is doing. Third, most driving
shoes are really boots and the leather over your ankle provides some protection against fire.
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Driving Gloves
Driving gloves serve mainly to allow you to keep a good grip on the wheel and offer some
protection against fire. Buy real driving gloves made of fire-resistant material, not the fancy
leather gloves with holes in the knuckles, even though they do look dashing in your E-Type Jag.
Good gloves typically extend a third of the way up your forearm and have leather patches on the
fingertips and palm. The leather gives you a good surface to grip the wheel, and the cloth
absorbs the sweat from your hands. Choose a contrasting colour to your car to help other
drivers see your passing signals.
Driving Suit
Primarily useful for drivers taking part in Porsche Club Racing, a good quality driving suit can
provide several seconds of protection in the very unlikely event of a fire inside the car. The more
expensive suits are made from an inherently fire resistant material, (Nomex, Kevlar, PBI), while
cheaper ones are made from treated cotton fabric (Proban, Fireware). Generally speaking, the
more layers of material, the greater protection is offered. Besides the fire-resistance of the
material itself, the air gap between the layers is also important. If you go down this route,
remember that the driving suit is just one item used for total body protection. The other items
include: helmet, head sock (balaclava), helmet skirt, HANS device, gloves, underwear, socks, and
shoes. All these items must work together to achieve total protection. If any one part is
inadequate or fails, it will undermine the effectiveness of the whole.
Head and Neck Restraint Device
You may see some drivers wearing an odd-shaped contraption attached to their helmets and
extending down over their shoulders. This is a head and neck restraint device designed to stop
the head from whipping forward in a crash. Mandated by most race series, these safety devices
are now within the budgetary reach of DE enthusiasts. These devices require helmet attachment
points and the installation harnesses to function correctly.
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Section 4 - Reference Materials
Glossary of Terms
This is a brief collection of common driving related terms grouped into categories. This list is by
no means complete and while all the terms are common, they may not all be used at our events.
Steering and Handling
Attitude – The orientation of your vehicle due to rotation around its axes – pitch, roll and yaw.
(E.g. nose pitching down under braking, nose pitching up under acceleration, rolling toward the
outside of the corner, yawing right or left as you turn)
Centre of Gravity - The point within the car where it is exactly balanced in all directions.
Dead Pedal - The area immediately to the left of the clutch pedal. It is used as a resting spot for
the left foot when not depressing the clutch and as a bracing point for the left foot during hard
cornering or braking, to keep the body firmly in the seat.
Drift - Driving in a state of controlled skid while the car is gaining speed.
Feathering - A gentle application of pressure on or off the gas pedal to maintain a constant
speed. Mainly used in the balancing phase of cornering
g – a measure of force in terms of gravitational acceleration. Typically used to describe
cornering, braking and accelerating forces
Heel & Toe - To use the ball of the foot on the brake pedal while the heel or side of the foot is
used to control the gas pedal.
Loose – Tendency to oversteer
Oversteer - A condition where the car wants to turn in more than requested because the rear
has less grip than the front
Power Slide - Driving with oversteer induced by applying the gas, making the rear slide out from
under you. Dramatic and fun, but not fast.
Pushing/Ploughing/Tight - Excessive understeer in turns.
Reaction Time - The time it takes a driver to respond after some input requiring a response
(about 0.50 - 1.0 second). A car also has a reaction time to driver input and is approximately
0.25 - 2 seconds.
Scrubbing - Causing the wheels to skid rather than roll around a corner. It greatly decreases
vehicle speed and increases tire wear.
Set - A cornering state where the car is stable and the driver is confident in their control of the
car.
Settled – The car is stable and not going through major weight transitions prior to cornering.
Skid - To make the tires slide rather than roll. Skids may be: in a straight line while braking, an
understeer slide while trying to turn, or an oversteer induced spin.
Slip Angle - The angle between the direction a tire is pointing and the direction it is moving.
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Spin - An uncontrolled rotating slide or skid.
Throttle Steer - Adjusting your line through a turn by subtle feathering of the throttle – more
gas to move out, less to move in.
Understeer - A condition where the car resists turning because traction at the front wheels is
lower than at the rear.
Weight Transfer - The transfer of weight from one side of the car to the other, or front to back
due to acceleration, braking or turning.
Engine and Transmission
Boxer Engine – A flat engine with horizontally opposed cylinders. It offers good torque and a low
centre of gravity.
Gear Chart - A chart showing speed in each gear at various engine speeds.
Lug - To require larger power outputs at too low an engine speed than is good for the engine
(e.g., going full throttle in 4th gear at 2000 RPM).
Missed Shift – Getting a different gear than you intended. Usually a downshift when you wanted
an up - it’s frequently caused by rushing your shift. Failure to re-engage the clutch quickly can
cause catastrophic engine failure by forcing the revs well past the red line.
Over-Rev - To run the engine at higher RPM than is desirable or good for the engine. The engine
computer will limit over-revving with the throttle by cutting the fuel. It cannot prevent over-
revving caused by a missed shift.
Power curve – A plot of the horsepower against engine RPM.
Red Line – Maximum safe allowable RPM for your engine. The maximum torque output for
accelerating generally occurs well before red line, so there is no need to bounce off the rev-
limiter. The engine computer knows and permanently records when you go over.
Rev matching – raising the engine rpm while downshifting to ensure it matches the car speed.
Riding the Clutch - Driving with the clutch partially disengaged or with excessive clutch slip in
matching shifts. It’s bad for clutch life expectancy.
RPM - Revolutions per Minute, or how fast the engine is rotating. Also called ‘revs.’
Slipping the Clutch – allowing the clutch to slip on the flywheel by slowly disengaging the pedal.
Slip allows the engine to be brought up to speed with the wheels during a downshift. Not really
a substitute for rev matching with the throttle. Increases clutch wear.
Shift Point - The RPM at which one shifts to another gear, either as an upshift or downshift.
Tip-in – The beginning of throttle application. Sport and Sport + modes can make tip-in abrupt
and make smooth application of the throttle difficult.
Torque - The ability of the engine to produce twisting force. Torque is used for acceleration.
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Tires and Brakes
Balance - The relationship between the load on the individual wheels and their ability to turn,
brake, or apply power. If they are near equal, the balance is good.
Brake Fade – Reduction of braking ability due to excess heat build-up in the pads, rotors, and
calipers.
Braking Point - A designated point at which you begin to apply the brakes, usually a fixed
distance from a turn. Braking points will be different for every car and driver combination.
Brush/Tap the Brake – A very light and brief touch on the brakes to transfer weight forward and
improve turn-in where hard braking is not required.
Cadence Braking – An obsolete braking technique involving rapidly pumping the brake pedal.
The purpose was to retain steering ability while braking hard. You can steer, but stopping
distances are usually much longer than with threshold braking. ABS does this far more
effectively than any driver.
Camber – The tilt inward (negative) or outward (positive) of your wheels. Negative camber aids
in maintaining your contact patches when cornering. Positive camber on a road or track vehicle
is an alignment issue, but is sometimes used in the rear of off-road vehicles.
Contact Patch - The small area of the tire in contact with the ground at any point in time. The
size varies continually as the load from accelerating, braking and cornering changes.
Engine Braking - Utilizing the engine to provide resistance to slow the car, for example by
downshifting to a lower gear. Useful for going down long hills with heavy loads, but otherwise
obsolete with modern cars with brakes that actually work.
Hard Braking - To decelerate using the brakes to their maximum capacity.
Lifting - To let up on the gas pedal to transfer weight forward to improve turn-in. Sudden lifting
in a turn can induce lift throttle or trailing throttle oversteer
Pumping the Brakes - Modulating the brake pedal to raise the fluid level. It is not a braking
technique. It is used in emergency situations when steam from boiling brake fluid has entered
the system and caused the pedal to go to the floor.
Stopping Distance - The distance required to stop the car from a specified speed. Generally
usually means minimum distance and may or may not include the time required for the driver to
activate the brakes after an indication that braking is necessary.
Threshold Braking – Very hard braking at the point of locking the wheels. It gives the shortest
possible stopping distance.
Traction - The ability of a tire to grip a surface. It is a function of weight, tire contact area and
the friction of the surface.
Traction Limit - The maximum forward, rearward or sideways force at the tires while
accelerating, braking or cornering.
Trail Braking - Maintaining a low and decreasing level of brake application into a turn in contrast
to complete release of the brakes before beginning the turn.
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Trailing/Lift Throttle Oversteer – Oversteer induced by suddenly lifting off the throttle mid-
turn.
Wheel Spin - To spin the wheels when accelerating. A small amount of wheel spin is necessary
for maximum acceleration. Quoted numbers vary between 8 and 20% spin, but seem to average
around 12%.
Road and Track
Banked – A corner that slopes toward the inside
Clipping Point - A point along a curve where a car actually touches the inside edge of the road.
Compound Curve – A series of curves that should not be considered individually
Constant Arc - When the radius of the turn is constant.
Decreasing Radius Turn - A turn which gets sharper from turn-in to exit.
Early Apex - When the apex occurs before the theoretical one, or when the driver incorrectly
judges the theoretical apex and turns early.
Esses/S-Curve - A curve shaped like an S: two or more connected turns, which alternate
direction.
Hot Track – Any open track that a vehicle is permitted to be on. All safety protocols are in effect.
Also a procedure for allowing one run group on track for warm-up while the previous group is
coming in on cool-down.
Ideal Line - The optimum path through a turn considering all factors.
Increasing Radius Turn - A turn that opens up from turn-in to exit.
Largest Possible Radius - The largest radius which can be driven and still stay on the road
surface at the start, apex, and end. The line giving the highest exit speed from a given turn.
Late Apex - When the practical apex occurs after the theoretical one, or when the driver
incorrectly judges the theoretical apex and goes “late.”
Marbles – Debris such as rubber chunks, or gravel on the track. Generally found off-line and can
suddenly reduce grip drastically if driven on.
Off Camber (Negative camber)– The track slopes away from you making it more difficult to
maintain grip.
Paddock – Area for parking and preparation of vehicles to go on track
Pinching – Not unwinding the wheel enough to get to the exit point, forcing the car to stay mid-
track. With strong acceleration can potentially cause unwanted oversteer.
Pit Lane/Row/Road – The area leading on and off the track. Also the area for fuelling and
servicing cars during a race.
Practical Apex - A point along a curve where the path of a car should touch the inside edge of
the turn.
Radius - The distance from the centre of the circle defined by the arc path the car is maintaining.
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Shark’s Teeth/Alligator Teeth/Turtles – The orange and white serrated curbing at the edge of
the track. Stay off them as much as possible.
Skirt/Apron – A section of concrete extending the surface of the track at the exit of some
corners.
Staging – The process of gathering cars and drivers along the left pit lane wall a few minutes
prior to entering the track for their run session.
Straight - A portion of the road or track where the vehicle must only increase or maintain its
speed.
Theoretical Apex - A point along a curve where the largest possible radius touches the inside
edge of the turn.
Track-out Point/Exit – The point where turning ends. Usually the outer edge of the track where
the straight begins
Turn-in Point - The point where turning is initiated.
TWO SPIN RULE - if you have 2 spins, 2 off-courses or a combination of these, you will not be
allowed on track again during this driver education event.
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Personal Checklist and Tips for DE
Before the track - preparation and what to take:
1. ALWAYS place your tech-inspection in the glove compartment, or on the dash before
leaving home. You don’t want to have to go home to get it.
2. Make sure you have your helmet
3. Make sure you arrive at the track with as close to a full tank of gas as you can get. The
Irving Big Stop in Enfield is always open. The Esso just off Exit 9 opens at 6:00 weekdays and
7:00 on weekends. There may be sufficient time at lunch to make a run to Shubenacadie for
gas, but you will need at least half an hour.
4. Stuff to consider bringing to the track:
• Tire gauge
• The key or special socket for your wheel locks
• Small assortment of tools, flashlight
• Torque wrench if you have one
• Air pump
• Small jack - the factory one or a small shop jack.
• Small piece of wood to place under jack.
• A folding chair.
• Work gloves or some hand cleaner and a rag can come handy.
• Camera
• Glass cleaner and paper-towels to clean windshield.
• Extra engine oil
• Extra brake fluid
• A cap
• Sunglasses.
• Sunscreen
• Bug spray
• Rain wear
• A change of dry clothes
• Warm clothes regardless of the weather forecast. Prepare for the worst.
• Small plastic bins for your stuff
• Small tarp
• If you have special dietary requirements bring what you need
Jacks, hand tools, torque wrenches, and air pumps can most likely be borrowed at the track if
necessary. Personal items, extra oil and brake fluid are up to you.
5. Morning coffee, lunch, cookies, and water will be provided. Anything else you require is up
to you. Drink plenty of water; you will get dehydrated faster than you think.
6. Keep an eye on tire pressures. Pressures can vary by one pound for every 10 degrees F in
temperature.
7. Check tires cold! It is not uncommon for tires at driver-ed events to increase 5-10 lbs during
the course of the day.
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8. Sneakers are OK. However, avoid running shoes or other sneakers with soles that extend
beyond the shape of the foot. They can get in the way during quick foot movements while
driving.
9. Lug nuts: Always torque your wheels to recommended specifications, typically around 94
foot lbs.
10. Put your stuff in plastic bins not plastic bags. Bags can leak. A good piece of tarp can always
come in handy.
11. ALWAYS do your own inspection of the car before each track day. And look over your vehicle
before each track session.
12. Remember to bring directions to the track and emergency phone numbers.
13. Take something to cover all your stuff when it's lying on the ground.
14. If you are running street tires, start with your car manual’s recommendation. Alternatively
you can add 2 psi over your street pressure to stiffen the tire and sidewall to provide better
stability and less tire deformation.
15. Don't leave the plastic lock caps on lug nuts at the track. They will melt onto the lock. Just
take the locks off before the day begins.
At the track:
16. At the track, don't park with the hand brake on. It can stick on, rendering you immobile.
17. Observe as many parts of the track as possible, most of the track can be seen from the
control tower.
18. Check your car’s fluid levels before each run session. Lower your personal fluid levels before
each run.
19. Be observant and helpful in the paddock.
20. AMP is a volunteer run facility – look after your own trash.
21. Make sure your passing signals are crisp and clear, one point-by for each car to pass. And lift
off the throttle briefly to allow the cars you've signaled to pass. Do not brake.
22. Use the first few laps of each session to warm up your tires, brakes, engine, and brain.
23. Talk yourself through your laps - even out loud. Hit the key markers and call them out to
yourself.
24. Try sitting in your car and visualizing your way around the track. Include the movements as
you do it.
25. Don't drive with your wallet in your hip pocket. It will get uncomfortable.
26. Make a habit of checking your gauges on the pit or back straights. You're busy driving the
car and can forget to check all gauges, especially the oil pressure and temperature.
27. Listen to your instructor...carefully
28. Err toward late apexing, particularly when learning a new track.
29. Concentrate on consistency and smoothness. Abrupt inputs upset your car’s balance.
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30. Use your cool down lap to allow your engine and brakes to cool. Complete the lap at
reduced speed, use your brakes as little as possible, and continue to drive the line.
31. After a run session, cool the brakes by using them as little as possible when returning to
your spot. Do not leave your foot on the brake pedal while the brakes are hot. Coast to a
stop with the clutch depressed, turn off the engine with the car in gear, and then release the
clutch. Do not use the park brake; instead leave the car in gear while parked.
32. Don't attempt to take hot aluminum lugs off. They will break, leaving only the spherical end
screwed in tight against the wheel. And you are out of luck. Beyond the fact that your day is
over, let's not even talk about how much this is going to cost at the repair shop.
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Instructor Language and Observations
A lot is happening as you drive the track and your instructor must be able to communicate with
you quickly and efficiently. There is little time for discussion, so your instructor will use a
number of very brief commands and observations to help guide you. Instructors may also use
hand signals. If so, they should discuss them with you. There may be slight variations between
instructors but we try to keep things as consistent as possible. Some directions are self-
explanatory, others need a little clarification as shown in parentheses.
Brake
More Brake
Turn
Turn Now
Turn More
Turn Less
Unwind (straighten the steering)
Easy (don’t accelerate)
Freeze (your hands on the wheel)
Go Straight
Don’t Lift (maintain steady throttle)
Slow Down (less gas)
Slow Down More (much less gas)
More Gas
Feather (easy inputs on throttle)
Squeeze (gentle application of brake or gas)
Brush the Brake (light touch of the brake pedal)
Track Out (Unwind the wheel to exit the corner)
Track out all the way (unwind the wheel to reach the edge of the track at exit)
Smooth
Go (left, right, across, inside, outside)
BOTH FEET IN (Hit the brakes and clutch hard. Hold until stopped)
Look Up (don’t look at the road immediately in front of you)
Cross over (move to the other side of the track)
Cross over 2/3 (move 2/3 of the way across the track)
Shift (Up or Down)
Wait (hold off on your next input – steering, brake, gas)
Early (turned in too soon)
Late (turned in too late)
Wide (Car is not tight to the apex)
Too Hot (Entered corner too fast)
Too Slow
Too Rough (Transitions for turning, braking and accelerating aren’t smooth)
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Sign-off and Promotion Criteria
Sign-off Criteria
Some students may display sufficient progress with their skills to be allowed to complete the
remainder of the session or the event Solo. This is recognition of the benefits of solo practice in
developing skills and confidence; it is not promotion to the next level. If warranted, promotion
may occur at the next event.
No one in the Green Group will be signed off to Solo.
Yellow Group sign-off will not be considered before the second day of the event.
In the Yellow Group you will be signed off to drive the track on your own when:
• Your instructor would be comfortable and secure sharing the track with you.
• You have shown common sense and good judgment with traffic and the selection of
appropriate speeds for all situations.
• You are comfortable with the idea of driving alone.
• You are not overconfident.
• You know the line, drive it consistently and are able to situate yourself anywhere on the
circuit.
• You are completely aware of the rules and regulations associated with the event (i.e.
flags, pit-out procedures and track exit practices).
• You demonstrate smooth, relatively seamless transitions from one driving input to
another.
• You show progress towards mastering essential vision skills.
• You demonstrate the need for ongoing skill development and the necessity of seeking
out instructors for continuous assistance and refinement.
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Promotion Criteria
Promotion from one Run Group to the next is a judgement call between your instructor and the
chief instructor. To communicate to students how this decision is reached, we have developed
the following criteria list for each level. Here we outline the knowledge, skills, and attitudes a
student must display to reach the next level.
Promotion from Green Group to Yellow Group
Students will be promoted to Yellow when they meet the following criteria, and can expect
continued instruction in Yellow as part of Acadia Region’s instructional program. Students can
expect to spend at least one or two events in the Green Group with an instructor.
• Drives the line reasonably accurately and consistently without help
• Inputs increasingly smooth
• Makes few mistakes and self corrects
• Show progress toward mastering essential vision skills.
• Calm and patient in traffic
• Fully aware of corner stations
• Anticipates slower cars in front
• Does not give or accept late passing signals
• Passes with good safety margins
• Exhibits good manners and consideration
• Displays full knowledge of procedures, flags, terminology
• Is safe to drive alone
• Drives at an appropriate pace for the Yellow group
Promotion from Yellow to RedDrivers in Yellow Group are expected to polish their driving skills, increase their confidence, and
learn more advanced techniques, as a prerequisite to being promoted to Solo status or into the
Red Group. Students can expect to spend several events in the Yellow Group with an instructor
and then Solo.
• Demonstrates patience in potentially frustrating situations
• Uses the full track consistently
• Very smooth inputs, especially braking
• Vision at least 3 seconds out with soft focus
• Clearly demonstrate knowing where to look and uses peripheral vision
• Carries reasonable momentum into corners
• Practices smooth downshifting technique (e.g. heel & toe)
• Demonstrates competent car control and recovery skills
• Prompt and courteous passing signals
• Good driving record for two events minimum
• Calmly deals with fast traffic and close passing
• Completely safe without an instructor
• Demonstrates full compliance with Region DE philosophy
• Must successfully complete a "test drive" in Red with Chief Instructor or his designate
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The Red Group
The Red Group is a "Solo-only" (no instructor required, but may be requested) group. Red
Group drivers are characterized by a wide range of skills and experience, as drivers gain seat-
time and work on advancing their driving skills. These drivers will be working toward improved
consistency, use of vision, and using momentum. There can be significant speed differentials in
this group since our current four-group schedule requires that some instructors lap their cars in
this group. The skills listed below are the goals that Red Group drivers should strive for and
assume proficiency in the skills listed above for Green and Yellow Groups.
• Exceptional track awareness
• Exceptionally smooth inputs
• Has mastered essential vision skills.
• Demonstrates patience, can control ego
• Anticipates vs. reacts
• Calmly deals with wide variety of closing speeds
• Readily adapts to new & changing conditions
• Drives at appropriate pace for Black group
• Comfortable in close to race conditions
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One Lap of Atlantic Motorsport Park
THE TRACK
Built in 1974, Atlantic Motorsport Park is a 1.6 mile (2.6 km) eleven turn road course with a technically challenging mix of elevation changes, fast, slow, and off-camber turns. It is a mentally and physically demanding track to drive.
THE SCHOOL
This is not a racing school. The purpose of this school is to help you develop your driving skills; it is not racing. Don’t feel that you must go faster than you are comfortable with. This track takes time to learn, so concentrate on driving the line smoothly, listen to your instructor, and speed will come.
The approximate turn-in and apexes of most turns will be marked with pylons during the school. However, these pylons are easily moved or knocked over, so get to know their positions quickly so you do not need to rely on them. The usual pylon positions and approximate braking zones have been marked on the turn diagrams.
STAGING & TRACK ENTRY
All cars for your run group will stage in pit lane at least five minutes before your run begins. When ready to begin the run, each car will move out from pit lane under the direction of the starting marshal. When directed by the marshal, accelerate smartly onto the left side of the track.
Be aware that there may be cars approaching you very fast down the front straight. Check your mirrors before entering the straight
Remember the Mantra
Slow in, Fast Out - Slow in, Fast Out - Slow in, Fast Out
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TURN 1 - A downhill right-hand dogleg with a blind double-apex, followed by a short chute and the Turn 2 left-hand hairpin.
Coming of the pit straight you will be under heavy braking. The braking zone begins just past the end of the pit wall. Entering the braking zone, you should be ¾ of the way to the left of the track. Try to get your heaviest braking done before the down hill section begins. Heavy braking on the downhill can cause the rear of the car to get very light. Get your braking done before you turn in.
Executed properly Turn 1 can be done as a single arc touching both apexes. The first apex is difficult to see when approaching the corner. It is near the bottom of the orange and white shark’s teeth on the right side of the track. While braking straight, freeze the wheel, turn your head and look for the area of the first apex, then turn in. When you have reached the first apex allow your momentum to carry you toward mid-track as you look for the second apex.
Look for the beginning of the straight leading to Turn 2 - this is your second apex and track-out point. When you have your car pointed at the apex/track-out you can accelerate down the hill staying to the right of the track.
TURN 2 - The slowest and possibly trickiest turn to get exactly right, turn two is a left-hand hairpin at the bottom of a gully. The entrance is a steep downhill and the exit is a steep uphill.
Stay to the right of the track as much as possible on the short straight between Turns 1 and 2. It is particularly important to locate the turn-in, apex and track-out points while still on the straight. Be sure to turn your head, not just your eyes and use your peripheral vision to keep track of the turn-in point.
The turn-in point is just at the end of the straight. Be sure not to go too deep before turning-in as there is a substantial lip at the shoulder of the track. The apex is very late, near the last of the shark’s teeth at the inside edge of the track. The track out point is relatively close to the apex. From the apex you can accelerate and begin to unwind the wheel slightly to carry you to the shark’s teeth on the right side of the track. You should be looking up the hill to the left of the track for the short straight at the entrance to Turn 3, using your peripheral vision to locate the track-out point. At the track out point you will need to carry your arc across the track to the left to be in position for turn three.
1
2
Pit Ou
t
BRAKE
BRAKE
MARSHAL STAND
MARSHAL STAND
Figure 2 - Turns 1 & 2
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TURN 3 - This is a relatively flat right-hand turn leading onto a gradual downhill.
From the track-out point of Turn 2, continue your arc to the left edge of the track. This will give you a short straight to the turn-in point. Just before the turn-in point, brake and look around the corner for the apex about ¾ of the way around the turn. A triangular point on the curbing can be used as a reference for the apex. You can drive part way up the concrete curbing on the inside of the corner. The track-out point is the beginning of the straight.
A skirt area extends the outer edge of this turn. You can use this to give yourself a little more room if you really need it, but be aware that there can be a deep rut at the end of the skirt. You do not want to put a wheel into it. If you do - do not try to pull the car back on to the track immediately. Follow the track edge, let the car slow and find a more suitable re-entry point.
The track runs gently downhill from the track-out toward turn four. This “straight” is really two short straights joined by a slight right-hand turn. From the track-out of three, you can accelerate while sweeping across the track to the concrete curb on the right. From there, your line should bring you straight to the turn-in for Turn 4.
TURN 4 - A slightly more than ninety-degree, downhill, off-camber, right-hander.
This turn paired with Turn 5, is arguably the most important turn on the track since it determines your maximum speed across the back straight.
Your line from the kink on the 3 - 4 straight should point directly at the gap between a white birch tree and the white plastic covered barriers (This is a wide gap and will require you to pick your own reference point within it.) This turn is down hill and off-camber so it is critical that the car is settled before you turn.
Brake in a straight line directly at the gap downshift if necessary. Get your heavy braking done early and ease off the brake as you come to the turn-in point to ensure that the car is well settled. It is very easy to put one or more wheels of here - leave yourself a little room at the track edge. You should not be in the middle of the track when you turn.
From the turn-in point a gradual application of the throttle will help to stabilize the car as you approach the apex, and give better speed on the short straight that follows.
3
BRAKE
MARSHAL STAND
Figure 3 - Turn 3
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The apex of this turn is very late and difficult to see. You should turn your head and look for it while still approaching the turn-in point. It is the beginning of the very short straight leading to turn five. There is a small patch at the edge of the pavement at the apex that makes a good reference point. It is critical to getting the 4 - 5 combination done well that you get your car parallel to the right edge of the straight as soon as possible so that you can accelerate along the short straight.
Watch for marshals waving blue flags in the Turn 5 area. A faster car is behind you and you will need to let them pass on the back straight after turn five.
TURN 5 - A short left-hander over a crest leading onto the fastest part of the track.
The turn-in point for five is just before the end of the short straight. At the turn-in point brush your brakes gently to set the front of the car. The apex is at the end of the shark’s teeth at the crest of the hump. It is important to unwind and get across to the right of the track quickly from the apex.
Too much, or abrupt throttle will make the car unsettled as you go over the crest and will push you away from the apex. This can lead to a spin, so be careful.
PASSING - Turn 5 leads into the first passing zone, beginning at Turn 6. There will be a marshal on the hill to the right of the turn. A blue flag means there is a faster car behind you, which you will need to allow to pass on the back straight. You should be aware of faster cars approaching before the marshal flags you.
To allow the faster car to pass, stay on your line as you pass the Turn 6 apex. When you are ready to allow the pass put your left hand out the window and point the passing car by. They will pass on your left. Do not accelerate while being passed
There may be more than one car wanting to pass. In this case give a separate passing signal for each car. It may not be possible to safely let several cars through. Only signal as many cars through as you are comfortable permitting to pass.
In the case where you are overtaking a slower car give them
65 4
BRAKE
BRUSH BRAKE
PASSING ZONE
MARSHAL STAND
Figure 4 - Turns 4, 5, & 6
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room. Inexperienced drivers can become very anxious having a faster car two feet from their bumper. Stay directly behind the slower car and at least four car lengths back through the corner. Wait for your signal, and then pass with care.
TURN 6 - A fast right sweeper in the back straight that becomes more significant as your speed increases.
Accelerate from the apex of five toward the apex of six at the bottom of the hill. Track-out is on the left side of the track at the beginning of the flat straight leading to Turn 7.
Leave some room at the right edge of the track. There is a concrete block and grass curbing you should stay off.
TURN 7 - A fast uphill right-hand sweeper leading to a fast left-hand sweeper.
The approach to Turn 7 is the fastest point on the track. Begin moderate braking 150 - 200 feet before the end of the straight. Look up the hill for the apex at the end of the shark’s teeth and turn-in at the end of the straight. Your car needs to be well settled before turn-in. Turn-in should occur before the end of the new pavement. From the apex of 7 look for the apex of Turn 8 and allow your car to drift across the track to the pavement edge just before Turn 8.
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8
BRAKE
MARSHAL STAND
PASSING ZONE
Figure 5 - Turns 6, 7, & 8
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TURN 8 - A fast uphill left-hand sweeper flattening into a short straight.
Allowing your car to drift across the track from the apex of 7 will position you for the apex of 8, which is just at the beginning of the short straight. Your wheel should be briefly straight at the apex of 8. There is a seam in the pavement approximately 40 feet past the end of the new pavement. This is the apex of 8; your wheel should be straight here.
Allow your momentum to carry you toward mid-track where a slight turn of the wheel will bring you back to the left of the track and the short chute into nine. There is a visible seam in the pavement approximately at mid-track, use this as a reference for the outer edge of your arc. Beyond this seam there may be marbles of race rubber, which can be slippery.
TURN 9 - The Carousel - A slightly uphill, relatively slow 180-degree turn with a blind very late apex. The nine, ten, eleven combination will determine your speed down the front straight.
This is a throttle steer corner – after turn-in you can roll on the gas and make adjustments to your line with the throttle.
The approach to 9 from the 7 - 8 combination is relatively fast. There is a slight grade on the straight before the turn-in that makes an excellent area for braking. The turn-in point is just at the end of the straight. Turn-in slightly more than you think you need to reach the apex and begin to gently roll-on the throttle. Too much throttle will push you wide of the apex. You can adjust your line with slight adjustments to the throttle.
8
9
10
BRAKE
BRUSH BRAKE
MARSHAL STAND MARSHAL STAND
BRUSH BRAKE
PIT IN
Figure 6 - Turn 8, 9, & 10
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From the apex you will drift across to follow the left edge of the track a short distance to the turn-in for turn ten. There is a concrete skirt at the exit of nine that will help set you up for ten, but beware, running off the skirt will cause you to lose control.
The gravel on the outside of the turn will not stop a 911.
TURN 10 - A right-hand sweeper that starts flat then goes very slightly downhill. The exit to the pits is on the left.
From the track-out point of Turn 9 you will briefly follow the left edge of the track to the turn-in point for ten. Look right for the apex/track-out point of 10 at the beginning of the very short straight section leading to Turn 11. Brush your brakes to set the front end for the turn. There is a sharp shoulder along the edge of the straight, so leave a little room at the edge of the track.
Be aware that cars may be slowing to exit the track here - watch for signals. If you are exiting to the pits remember to signal with your raised fist above the roofline of the car and to keep left.
Figure 7 - Turns 10, 11 & 1
TURN 11 - A slightly banked uphill left-hander with a blind track-out leading onto the front straight.
The turn-in point is the end of the short straight from ten. Look left for the apex and past it to the right for the track-out area. You will not be able to see the track-out area because of the crest, but a line that takes you 2/3 of the distance across the visible portion of the track will take you to track-out. Brush your brakes and turn.
10
11
1
PIT LAN
E - STAG
ING
BRUSH BRAKE
BRUSH BRAKE
BRAKE
PASSIN
G ZON
E
MARSHAL STAND
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You will run out of track very quickly if you apex too early. There is an extension skirt along the right edge of the track if you run a little wide. If you put one or more wheels off, there is ample room to safely drive off into the grass along the right side of the front straight. Do not try to force the car back onto the track.
PASSING - The front straight is the second passing zone. There will be a marshal with a blue flag at the base of the tower on the left of turn eleven. The procedure here is the same as for the back straight: stay on line, point the passing car by with your hand out the window when you are ready, do not accelerate, and give a clear signal for each car you feel you can safely allow to pass.
TURN 1 - A downhill right-hander with a double apex, followed by a short chute and the turn two left-hand hairpin.
The front straight leads to turn one and completes the circuit of AMP. Be aware that cars may be entering the track from the pits at the left side of the end portion of the straight.
The braking zone for turn one begins just at the end of the pit wall. Entering the braking zone you should be ¾ of the way to the left of the track. Try to get most of your braking done before the down hill section begins. Heavy braking on the downhill will cause the rear of the car to get very light.
Executed properly Turn 1 can be done as a single arc touching both apexes. The first apex is difficult to see when approaching the corner. It is near the bottom of the orange and white shark’s teeth on the right side of the track. While braking straight, freeze the wheel, turn your head and look for the first apex, then turn in. When you have reached the first apex allow your momentum to carry you toward mid-track as you look for the second apex.
Look for the beginning of the straight leading to Turn 2 - this is your second apex and track-out point. When you have your car pointed at the apex/track-out you can accelerate down the hill staying to the right of the track.
REPEAT AS NECESSARY
HAVE FUN!
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NOTES
