Abstract

Introduction

Results Discussion

EFFECTS OF LANTHIONIZATION ON NATURAL AFRICAN AMERICAN HAIR

Brittany R. Randolph and Sandra L. WestmorelandTexas Woman’s University, Department of Biology, Denton, TX 76204

Hydroxide relaxers are used by African American women to straighten hair to create a smoother and more manageable texture of hair. Hydroxide relaxers “rel[y] on the cleavage of disulphide bonds to allow the hair to relax and be pulled straight. The alkaline relaxer penetrates the cortex and breaks the structural disulphide bonds of the hair.” (Harrison and Sinclair 2003) This process is called Lanthionization. When a hydroxide relaxer breaks a disulfide bond the bond is permanently broken and can never be reformed. For this experiment samples of unprocessed, virgin hair (control) underwent the lanthionization process. A total of 4 samples were used, each representing a 15 minute time difference (A:15 minutes, B:30 minutes, C:45 minutes, and D:60 minutes) to compare and contrast the effect of how the lanthionization process affects the qualitative structure of hair over time. Micrographs of “relaxed” hair from each time interval were compared to the structure of the untreated hair (control) to view the similarities and differences from the lanthionization process using the Hitachi TM 1000 Scanning Electron Microscope.

• African American women spend a significant amount of time and money on hair care maintenance; both at home and at professional salons. (Roseborough and McMichael, 2009)

• Natural hair styling refers to African American Women who choose not to apply chemical products to permanently change the curl pattern of their hair. (Roseborough and McMichael, 2009)

• Relaxed hair styling refers to African American women who chose to use chemical relaxers to reconstruct the hair’s structure in hopes of obtaining more manageable hair. (Roseborough and McMichael, 2009)

• Chemical Relaxing or Lanthionization contains a “chemical compound applied at varying intervals to permanently break hydrogen disulfide bonds along the hair shaft and release the tight curl pattern.” (Roseborough and McMichael, 2009)

• Chemical Relaxing, along with Permanent Waving, involves the “denaturation of the structural disulphide bonds of the hair and as such have the potential to cause significant damage to the hair.” (Harrison and Sinclair, 2003 )

• The hypothesis was confirmed ; as the time interval increased, the amount of weathering and cuticle damage increased.

• There was no evidence on whether or not the hair sample experienced other types of styling agents that would have caused damage prior to the experiment.

• There were a number of variables that could be taken into consideration when conducting future studies similar to this one:

• looking at the hair without the post relaxer treatment to observe the damage without the reconstructive agents.• using hair samples from a child to ensure that there is no outlying styling agents to affect the weathering results.• Comparison of different types of relaxers.• Comparison of the significance of the post relaxer treatments.

PurposeThe purpose of this study was to examine the relationship between the lanthionization process and its effects on natural African American hair. We hypothesized that after using a regular strength no-lye relaxer on untreated hair, the overall appearance of the hair would appear more damaged as the time intervals increased. The hypothesis was confirmed as a result of micrographs showing a noticeable difference in the amount of weathering found on hair strands from the control sample and sample D; with sample D showing the largest amount of weathering present when compared to the remaining samples.

Materials/Methods*1 No Lye Relaxer *5 Samples of Natural Hair

*Paper Towels marked as Control, A, B, C and D*Small lid (to complete relaxer on)

*Marker *Plastic Bag *Gloves *Stop Watch*Hitachi TM 1000 Scanning Electron Microscope

*Tweezers*5 Dials

Conclusion• There are a number of hair styling practices used by African American woman; some of those practices using harsh chemicals to reconstruct the structure of the hair shaft (Relaxing and Permanent Waving).

•Using these chemicals to permanently alter the structure of the hair have proven to be damaging and bad for the hair if they are not used correctly; especially leaving the solution on the hair longer that recommended.

•When comparing Natural Hair practices versus Relaxed Hair practices, research has not shown that one is “better than another.” Both practices can provide healthy beautiful hair when used correctly.

References

http://omg.yahoo.com/news/solange-knowles-never-borrowed-clothes-beyonce-kid-220217548.html

Figure 1: Beyonce Knowles (left) has a chemically treated or “Relaxed “ hair style; while her sister Solange Knowles chooses to wear a Natural hair style.

Figure 6 & 7: Control Sample. Micrographs of Untreated Hair after post-relaxer treatment.

Figure 8 & 9: Sample A. Micrographs of Relaxed hair after 15 minutes.

Figure 10 & 11: Sample B. Micrographs of Relaxed hair after 30 minutes.

Figure 12 & 13: Sample C. Micrographs of Relaxed hair after 45 minutes.

Figure 14 & 15: Sample D. Micrographs of Relaxed hair after 60 minutes.

The micrographs taken from the samples confirmed an increase of weathering and cuticle damage as

the time intervals increased.

1. Harrison S and Sinclair R. 2003. Hair colouring, permanent styling and hair structure. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2(3):180-5.

2. Roseborough I and McMichael A. 2009. Hair care practices in african american patients. Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery 28: 103-108.

http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2010/03/relaxers-hairy-issue.html

Figure 2 (Left); Diagram of Hair Structure without a

Relaxer.Figure 3(Above); Diagram of Hair Structure and Cuticle

following Relaxer.

Figure 16: Sample A (15 min)- Damaged Hair (Possibly from other

styling agents)

Figure 17: Sample B (30 min)- Damaged Hair (Shaft split open, fibrils exposed)

Figure 4: Relaxer Treatment: Activator and Hydration oil (Far left) Neutralizing

Shampoo (center left) Relaxing Cream (center) Post Relaxer Treatment (lying on cream) Wooden stirring spatula and Leave

in Conditioner.

Figure 5: The Work Station: Paper Towels, Relaxer Contents, Flat lid and Plastic Bag

Methods

1. Retrieve hair sample from Natural African American Woman2. Label 5 paper towels with Control, A, B, C and D. (One label for each

paper towel.)3. Separate the Natural Hair Sample into 2 sections (One section should

have a larger amount of hair).4. Remove relaxer products from its box and mix the relaxer as directed

in instructions.5. Set the stop watch for 15 minutes.6. Place larger section of hair on small lid and begin to mix in the relaxer

with the wooden spatula. Smooth the relaxer over entire section of hair. Mix the relaxer and hair section for 5 minutes to ensure entire section of hair is covered.

7. Start timer for 15 minutes.8. Apply the post relaxer treatment to the smallest section of hair that is

not being relaxed. This will serve as the control. (Wash hair with neutralizing shampoo, rinse hair completely, apply reconstructive conditioner, rinse hair of conditioner and apply the leave-in conditioner.) Once finished with the post relaxer treatment, pat the hair dry and place it on the paper towel labeled “Control”.

9. When the timer goes off, take a sample from the processing hair and follow through with the post relaxer treatment. Remember to re-start the timer as soon as the hair sample has been removed! Once post relaxer treatment has been completed, pat dry the hair with a paper towel and place hair sample on the paper towel labeled “A”.

10. Repeat step 9 three more times until all of the samples of relaxed hair have received the post relaxer treatment. Make sure to place each sample of hair on to it’s correct paper towel. (This should last for 1 hour.)

11. Fold each paper towel, with hair samples inside of them, and place them in a plastic bag. (You may want to label the outside of the paper towels for easy retrieval while using the microscope.)

12. Clean area and dispose of all remaining materials.

***WHILE IN THE LAB***13. Take out one sample at a time, and place stubs on the sample to

identify the stub that will be used for each sample.14. Use tweezers to obtain strands of hair from each sample and place

them on their stub.15. Follow the start-up instructions for using the Hitachi TM 1000 Scanning

Electron Microscope.16. Collect 5-7 micrographs from each hair sample. Once finished

retrieving the micrographs, place the stub in the stub carrier and return the paper towel and sample back into the plastic bag to avoid confusion.

17. Select the best 2 micrographs from each sample that show great examples of the hair structure and weathering as the time intervals increased.

18. Once finished with the microscope, follow the “shut-down” instructions for using the Hitachi TM 1000 Scanning Electron Microscope.

DEPARTMENT OF BIOLOGY

Denton, TX 76204-5799

AcknowledgementsI would like to give special thanks to all of

those who assisted me with this experiment: Mrs. Nina Randolph, Dr. Sandra Westmoreland, My SEM Class, Ms. Kamesha Ross, Ms. Chanta Virden, Ms. Kiosha Collins and The Soft & Beautiful Hair care company. Thank You All!!!