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OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP
To understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing and finishing of fabric, textile testing & their quality aspects for both technical as well as for commercial purposes.
The internship was carried out on the following assignment topics:
Assignment –I (Observations to be made and information to be documented on the Yarn manufacturing and winding section)
Assignment –II (Observations to be made and information to be documented on the weaving section)
Assignment –IV (Observations to be made and information to be documented on the Dyeing section)
Assignment –VI (Observations to be made and information to be documented on the Testing and Quality control sections)
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ABOUT VARDHMAN
Vardhman Group is a leading textile conglomerate in India having a turnover of 4500 CRORE. Spanning over 24 manufacturing facilities in five states across India, the Group business portfolio includes Yarn, Greige and Processed Fabric, Sewing Thread, Acrylic Fibre and Alloy Steel. Vardhman Group manufacturing facilities include over 8,00,000 spindles, 65 tons per day yarn and fibre dyeing, 900 shuttle less looms, 90 million meters per annum processed fabric, 33 tons per day sewing thread, 18000 metric tons per annum acrylic fibre and 100,000 tons per annum special and alloy steel.
Vardhman has evolved through history from a small beginning in 1965 into a modern textile major under the dynamic leadership of its chairman, Mr. S.P.Oswal. His vision and insight has given Vardhman an enviable position in the textile industry. Under his leadership, Vardhman is efficiently using resources to innovate, diversify, integrate and build its diverse operations into a dynamic modern enterprise.
MISSON
Vardhman aims to be world class textile organization producing diverse range of products for the global textile market. Vardhman seeks to achieve customer delight through excellence in manufacturing and customer service based on creative combination of state-of-the-art technology and human resources. Vardhman is committed to be responsible corporate citizen.
YARN; 52.55
FABRIC ; 23.27
FIBRE; 5
STEEL; 11.07
POWER PLANT; 0.04 ST; 9.08
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QUALITY POLICY
Quality should be built into company’s products to not only meet customer requirements continuously but also exceed them. The company shall achieve this through an interface with the market place, access to state of the art technology, R&D process development and adoption of innovative manufacturing and marketing strategies. The quality policy shall be implemented through a network of systems and procedures understood and followed throughout the company. The quality policy shall be integrated with the company’s main objectives:
1. To remain market leader in the quality.2. Increase market share with focus on niche segments.3. Improved productivity.4. Cost reduction.5. Reduction in percentage of seconds. 6. The management shall be committed to provide capital and human resources to
achieve the above objectives. A companywide quality culture shall be created through training and motivation of people at all levels of organization.
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LOGO OF VARDHMAN
The “FLAME” signifies the growth of each and every individual associated with it whether he or she is a worker, an employee, shareholder or a customer.
The “STICK” symbolizes cotton, which is basic raw material of the core product of Vardhman Group.
The “V” stands for Vardhman Group.
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ADOPTION OF MANAGEMENT PRACTICES
QUALITY COUNCILS
A significant step towards total quality management (TQM) is the concept of quality council adopted by the unit, fine quality councils have been constituted to identify the problems and to solve these as projects with efforts of cross functional project teams, consisting of officers from their concern as well as other departments.
CROSS FUNCTIONAL GROUP
To develop better coordination among inter-related departments, 15 functional groups have been formed. These groups meet at specific frequencies to sort out mutual problems and to bring about improvements in systems for better interdepartmental working.
HUMAN RESOURCE DEVELOPMENT
The importance of human resources in industry is well established with management and investment for the development of human resources through training and development in continuously being made. This has resulted in building of team of professionals comparable with best in textile industry. Apart from systematic and methodological training of fresh workmen the following developments amounts provided the staff and officers.
OFFICERS WORKSHOP
To keep a breast with new and existing concept in management officers workshop are organized regularly and the officers are nominated and are individually invited to the workshop.
The officers so invited exchange their views with help of moderator for about two hours for better clarity and understanding.
WORKERS DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM
Industry started various program for workers so that their mental level can be improved, for the many schemes are launched by the Company, same this “Manav Vikas Kendar” is organized for the worker to motivate them their problem can be listen and immediately action can be taken against it.
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TOTAL PRODUCTIVE MAINTENANCE (TPM)
It aims to create a corporate system that maximizes the efficiency of the production system.
TPM is based on Participation of all members, ranging from the top management to front line employees.
TPM POLICY OF VARDHMAN GROUP
Maximize overall effectiveness and reliability of the plant and machinery by aiming ata) Zero Break down, b) Zero Defects,c) Zero Accident
This is achieved through nurturing team work and continuous development of all employees.
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8 Pi
llars
of T
PM
Planned maintenance
Autonomous maintenance
Focused Improvement
Education and Training
Initial flow control
Quality maintenance
Office maintenance
Safety health and environment
MANUFACTURING AND DISTRIBUTION NETWORK
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ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY CHART
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Chairman cum Managing Director
Corporate General Managers
Vice President
Managers (M1-M4)
Excecutives (E1-E2)
Officers (O1-O2)
Staff (S1-S4)
Sub Staff
CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
SRI AUROBINDO SOCIO-ECONOMIC AND MANAGEMENT RESEARCH INSTITUTE
Sri Aurobindo Socio-Economic and Management Research Institute are engaged in the promotion of education, research and publications highlighting social and economic issues facing the society. The Institute runs a Human Resource Development Centre for providing career counselling and guidance to college students in Punjab. The teams of experts also visit the colleges in the state to prepare college students for gainful employment in the industry.
SRI AUROBINDO COLLEGE OF COMMERCE AND MANAGEMENT
Sprung from a keen desire to set up an educational institution in Ludhiana and inspired by the writings of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother, the Trust has set up a college - Sri Aurobindo College of Commerce and Management (affiliated to the Punjab University) with the mission to create an institution with distinction dedicated to the ideals of creating disciplined career oriented young people ready for going for administrative and management roles in enterprises or to set up their own business as entrepreneurs.
THE VILLAGE ADOPTION PROGRAMME
A Vardhman initiative to improve the yield of cotton in Punjab in 2001 when the State had suffered a shock of crop devastation and area under cotton cultivation was dwindling, led to the experiment to adopt villages and see whether concerted efforts in bringing knowledge to farmers could improve the yield of cotton. The experiment was successful as it improved the yield of cotton to 873 kg/hectare in 2005 in adopted villages where the average yield of cotton in the State of Punjab was 587 kg/hectare (world average - 700 kg/hectare). It found mention in the President's broadcast on Technology Day (11/05/04) as a 'technological event which has the potential to penetrate into our everyday lives'. The Village Adoption Programme also found mention in the President's address to the nation on the eve of India's 56th Republic day. The President of India was gracious to bless one of the participating Villages -'Gehri Buttar' (District - Bathinda) by his presence on December 10th 2005.
NIMBUA GREENFIELD PUNJAB LIMITED
Vardhman is actively engaged in the activities of Nimbua Greenfield Punjab Limited (www.ngpl.co.in) formed by a consortium of Industries of Punjab for developing a common facility for storage, treatment and disposal of hazardous wastes generated by the Industry with a Government of India grant. www.ngpl.co.in)
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AURO SPINNING MILLS (84000 SPINDLES)PRODUCTION DETAILS
Number of production halls – 5
UNIT 1 (HALL1)
Manufacturing Activity: Greige Cotton (both carded & combed) and core spun with Lycra.
Unit Capacity:
24,422 spindles Production of yarn per day: 16,000 kg
Product Range:
10s-60s
UNIT 2 (HALL 2)
Manufacturing Activity: Sliver preparatory and sample line
Unit Capacity:
1382 spindles Production of sliver per day: 9,000 kg
Product Range:
Lycra, compact, compact+lycra, slub+lycra, slub, Blends
UNIT 3 (HALL 3)
Manufacturing Activity: Cotton and lycra (bulk orders)
Unit Capacity:
38592 spindles
Product Range:
Lycra, slub, fancy yarns
UNIT 4 (HALL 4)
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Manufacturing Activity: Open- end yarn
Unit Capacity:
1248 rotors Production of yarn per day: 12,000 kg
Product Range:
6s-20s
UNIT 5 (HALL 5)
Manufacturing Activity: Compact (Elite) spun yarn
Unit Capacity:
14256 spindles Production of yarn per day: 4000 kg
Product Range:
o 40s-200s
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PROCESS FLOW
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RAW MATERIAL: INPUT
Cotton Fibre bales are issued as directed by the planning department
o Domestic sources – J-34 ,S-6 from Maharashtra, Mech -1 from Tamil Naduo Imported sources – PIMA & GIZA from Egypt, FOUNDLANDS from USA o Bale Weight = 165 kgo Count :
< 40s count: Indian (go for imported cotton if Indian is too costly)40s - 50s count: blend of imported & Indian used50s: imported cotton used
BLOW ROOM
Blow room consists of a number of machines used in succession to open and clean the cotton fibre. About 40% -70% trash is removed in blow room section.
PROCESS FLOW IN BLOWROOM
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o Pre-opening with blendomat BDTo Metal detection by SPMFo Separation of heavy particles by MAXIFLOWo Mixing or blending by MPMo Fine cleaning by CVT-1 o Foreign matter separation by SPF
MACHINES USED IN THE BLOWROOM
Vardhman uses a TRUTZSCHLER LINE IN THE BLOWRROM (BDT , SPMF, MAXIFLOW, MPM, CVT-1, SPF)
The basic purpose of Blow room is to supply
Small fibre tufts Clean fibre tufts Homogeneously blended tufts if more than one variety of fibre is used, without
increasing the fibre rupture, fibre naps, and broken seed particles.
PRE-OPENING
Effective preopening results in smaller tuft sizes, thus creating a large surface area for easy and efficient removal of trash particles by the fine openers.
METAL DETECTION
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Cotton fibre may catch some metal components while its fibre extraction process which needs to be removed before it goes into any further processing. Cotton fibre also may generate sparks due to friction while passing through connecting ducts. Thus it needs to be blown out. This is done just after the blendomat takes up the fibre from the manually opened bales.
MAXIFLOW
This machine opens the fibres and separates the heavy particles. Cleaning efficiency of this machine is very high in the blow room line. Mostly all heavy seeds fall in this machine without any problem.
BLENDING
To achieve uniform quality. To improve performance. To reduce and control the production cost. To meet the functional and user requirements. Enhance aesthetic properties i.e. appearance, colour, lustre etc. To enhance physical properties i.e. tensile strength, abrasion resistance, stretch etc.
MPM machine has 8 chambers. The cotton in all the chambers are mixed and blended together.
FINE CLEANING
CVT-1 does fine cleaning of the fibres. The cleaning points in CVT1 consist of opening roller, deflector blades, motor knives and suction hood. Trash particles released due to centrifugal forces are separated at the motor knives and continuously taken away by the suction.
FOREIGN PART SEPERATION
SPF separates the foreign parts from the fibres. It removes contamination and also removes yellow coloured fibres. It detects foreign matter by sensitive cameras.
CARDING
Carding process is considered as heart of spinning. Any defects occurring in this process continue throughout the remaining process of spinning resulting in defective yarn. In this process the cotton fibres pass through in between two sets of wire points moving in opposite direction resulting in the parallelization of fibres.
MACHINES
Trutzschler DK- 800‐ No. of Machines: 10
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Delivery Speed: 76mt/min
PURPOSE OF CARDING
Cleaning or elimination of impurities. to open the flocks into individual fibres reduction of neps elimination of dust elimination of short fibres fibre blending fibre orientation or alignment sliver formation
BREAKER DRAW FRAME
The sliver from the carding section is combined together to form one dense sliver. The process is called as Doubling One for Six (DO/6). It means 6 slivers are taken together to form one sliver which is the input for the formation of laps.
MACHINES
Machine: Lakshmi Reiter LDO/6 No. of Machines: 2 High delivery speed: up to 500 mts/min Production: up to 360 kg
MAIN OBJECTIVES
To straighten the fibres and make them parallel To improve uniformity To improve evenness
LAP FORMER
Lap former machines form the lap from the sliver of desired fineness and weight. The D/F slivers are drafted and wound into a lap. 14 slivers are fed into drafting arrangement from both sides and these are drafted in drafting system to produce fleeces. These are then drawn into the lap head by the calendar rolls which compresses it strongly to form a lap sheet (batt). This is then wound onto a tube by the lap rolls and lap roller flanges. When tube is full it is automatically changed for an empty one.
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MACHINES
Machine: Lakshmi UNIlap (LH- 10 & LE4/1a)‐ No. of Machines: 2 Delivery speed: up to 120 mts/min Batt weight: up to 80 gms/mt Time to complete one lap: 2.5 min
COMBING
Combing is the operation in which the short fibres in the cotton are removed so that the final yarn appearance and strength of the yarn is improved.
MACHINES
Machine: Lakshmi REITER E-65 and E-60 H
Number of machines: 6
Capacity: 3000-5000mtr
Number of heads: 8
No. of Deliveries: 1
PROCESS & OBJECTIVES
Combing is a process which is meant for upgrading the cotton raw material so that the following yarn
Properties will improve compared to the normal carded yarn.
Tenacity gms/tex Trash in the yarn Lustre Visual appearance
Slivers from carding section can go either directly to Finisher Drawing through Breaker Drawing or through Uni Lap/Comber to Finisher Drawing.
FINISHER DRAW FRAME
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The finisher draw frame maintains the diameter of the sliver formed and also does parallelisation of the fibres. The machine senses count variation and maintains a definite count in the sliver.
MACHINES
Machine: Trutzschler D 40 & TD-03‐ No. of machines: 3 Doubling: 8 Delivery speed: 300-1000 mt/min
PROCESS & OBJECTIVES
Used for weight control to form products of fine quality. To contribute towards doubling and draft of the combed material and to change
hooks disposition. To straighten the fibres and to make them parallel. To improve uniformity and evenness (homogenous sliver structure). 2 sets of 4 rollers each, each roller runs successively faster than the preceding set. The last set runs 6 times as fast the first set; hence, sliver coming out is the same size
as each one of the 6 going in, but is attenuated to 6 times the length per minute. The sliver is now much more uniform & fibres much more parallel.
SPEED FRAME
Reduces the thickness of the sliver into roving, imparts twists and winds it around a bobbin.
The main function of speed frame is to make roving from the draft sliver that has strength to withstand the tension variations at ring frame.
MACHINES
Machine: Lakshmi LFS 1660 Simplex No. of spindles: 120 spindles No. of machines: 4 machines Delivery rate: up to 50 m/min
PROCESS & OBJECTIVES
To draft the draw-frame sliver to make roving To impart necessary twist to the roving To wind the roving on the bobbin for ring frame machine
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RING FRAME
The roving bobbins of the speed frame are brought to and crewed on ring frame. These machines convert the roving into yarn. These machines further attenuate and draft the roving to the desired thickness of yarn, which is then wound on bobbins.
MACHINES
Machine: LR6 R/frs with ELITE Attachments No. of Machine: 16 ring frame
PROCESS & OBJECTIVES
To attenuate the roving to get the desired fineness. To insert the required twist to provide sufficient strength. To form a suitable package of required dimension for subsequent processing.
WINDING
Ring Frame gives the final output for spinning i.e. yarn. The productivity of the factory is determined by the output of the ring frame.
MACHINES
Machine: Autoconer- 338 with Uster Quantum clearer 2 ‐ No. of Machines : 5 No. of Drums: 60
PROCESS & OBJECTIVES
It reduces the thickness of the roving to the desired yarn count by means of drafting rollers. Drafting arrangement is the most important part of the machine. It influences mainly evenness and strength.
It imparts twists into the yarn thus strengthening it and preventing short fibres from protruding.
Packing it in a more easy to handle package.
CONDITIONING
The normal moisture content of cotton is around 6-6.5%. After converting to yarn, cotton has only 4% of moisture. A conditioning machine imparts required amount of moisture and strength to the yarns. It uses steam, high temperature and pressure. Steam penetrates into the material and increases the strength of the yarn. If conditioning of yarn is not done, problems like snarling and end twists can occur.
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MACHINES
Machine: Xorella AG Heating medium: Saturated steam Power Consumption: 150Kw Working pressure: 1 to 3 bar Starting temperature: 400 C Maximum conditioning time:12 hrs. Efficiency: 70- 75%‐
PACKING
After conditioning, the material is packed according to the customer’s demand. There are two ways of packing:
Carton packing: –Cones or cheeses are wrapped in plastic and packed into baseboard boxes. Depending upon the cone or cheese weight, the size or capacity of the carton varies.
Dimension: 655 mm x 460 mm x 515 mm Capacity: 18 cones
Pallet packing: Cones or cheeses wrapped in plastic are placed on top of one another and the entire package is wrapped in plastic. The maximum number of layers possible is 12.
Dimension: 1150 mm x 790 mm For 1.89 kg cones: 24 layers x 13 cones
RESPONSIBILITIES AND CHECK POINTS IN HALL 5
MIXING SUPERVISOR
Checking of condition of bale and equipment, whether free from oil, lubricants, grease
Checking of label at time of issue Management of soft waste Keeping records of bales
SHIFT OFFICER
Ensure through cleaning Ensure no maintenance chemicals are kept near organic cotton bales Ensure that there is no contamination
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Keep the update of all formats and maintaining records
SECTION HEAD
Counter check of all above things
YARN PACKAGE DEFECTS
Yarn waste in the cone: due to loose yarn ends that get wound in the cone Damaged edges/broken ends in the cone: the yarn is broken on the edges or in the
middle of the cone Ring formation: the yarn runs in belt formation on to the package, because its
misguided No transfer tail: desired transfer tail is missing or too short Displaced yarn layers: yarn layers are disturbed & slide towards the smaller diameter
of the cone Misguided yarn: yarn is not equally guided over the whole package Cauliflower: on the smaller side of the package, yarn shows a wrinkled effect
AURO WEAVING MILLSIn Auro weaving mills greige fabric is produced. The raw material is provided by auro spinning mills.
The Auro weaving mills has the following units in the production department:
Preparatory unit 4 loom sheds Folding and inspection unit
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Plain, twill, satin, matt, oxford, pique cord weaves are produced on the looms.
Weft wise stretch fabrics are also produced in Auro weaving mills. In weft core spun yarns are used in which the core is of Lycra.
Daily production of Auro weaving mills- 70,000 – 10,000 metres of fabric per day.
PROCESS FLOW OF WEAVING
PREPRATORY UNIT
The preparatory unit has the following sections:
Warping and rewinding section Sizing section Drawing-in section
WARPING
The process of arranging a convenient number of warp yarns that can be collected in a sheet form and wound on to a warper’s beam.
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Yarn from spinning section Yarn Preparation
Warp Preparation
Winding
Warping
Sizing
Drafting/ Drawing
Looming
Weft Preparation Winding
Weaving
The aim of warping is winding on one package to a certain number of warp-ends of a particular length. During warping, ends from many winding packages are wound on a common package to prepare a warp beam.
REQUIREMENTS FOR WARPING
The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the time of withdrawal from supply packages.
Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn. The tension should be moderate, to allow the yarn to completely retain the elastic
properties and strength. The surface of the warping package must be cylindrical. A predetermined length of the warping should be observed. The production rate of warping should be observed and it should be as high as
possible.
MACHINES
Warping machine: benniger ben-direct No. of machines: 3 No. of bobbins: 640 Max. Speed = 1200 RPM Running speed = 800-900 RPM Creel capacity = 640 cones Warp beam length = 1800 m
PROCESS
In one warping machine only 640 threads can be wound on the warper’s beam but the number of threads needed in the fabric is much more than that. So the number of threads is divided accordingly in a ratio and a number of warp beams are created.
If warp must have ‘m’ threads, the total no. of ends as divided by a certain no. ‘n’ no. of possibly equal parts containing ‘p’ ends, which are wound on a warping beam. Upon warping ‘n’ beams with ‘p’ ends on each, a set of beams with a total no. of ends m=p * n is formed which is necessary for producing the given fabric.
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For example if the number of warp threads required are 10,000. So 20 warper’s beam are made each with 500 threads.
PASSAGE OF YARN IN DIRECT WARPING MACHINE
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Creel Package
Yarn Tensioners
Yarn stop motion Sensor
Yarn guides
Expanding Comb
Guide roller
Warper’s beam
REWINDING
Rewinding is done to utilize the remaining yarn in packages after the completion of warping beam and to form big packages from small packages.
No. of rewinding machines: 1
Type: drum type winding
SIZING
The main purpose of sizing is to improve strength and abrasion resistance of the warp yarns by causing the fibres to adhere together to make smooth and to lubricate the warp yarns so that there is minimum friction where they rub together various parts in the weaving process. Sizing increases the abrasion resistance of the yarn. Softners are added so the the yarn does not become brittle.
SIZING CHEMICALS
Starch Binder Acrylic base Softener
MACHINES
Machine: benniger sizing machine, sucker muller sizing machine No. of machines: 3 Creel capacity: 20 Max. Speed : 125 MPM Running Speed : 70-80 MPM
PARTS OF SIZING MACHINE
Creel zone Size box A Size box B Pre dryer Final dryer Waxing zone Dry split zone
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Comb Weaver’s beam
FACTORS AFFECTING DEGREE OF SIZING: Concentration Viscosity of sizing liquor Temperature of sizing liquor Speed Squeezing pressure
THE SIZE COMPOSITION DEPENDS ON MANY FACTORS:
The fibrous materials which the yarn is made off The twist of the yarn Linear density of the yarn Spinning method The density and pattern of weave of the fabric to be produced Type of the weaving loom Count of the yarn
DRAWING-IN
Drawing-in is the consecutive passing of warp ends through the drop wires, healds and reed. Drawing-in is usually done manually and is time consuming. Drawing-in is the final preparatory process.
DROP PIN
The drop wire is a part of warp stop motion designated for stopping the loom in case of warp breakage.
The size and weight droppers depend on the linear density of the warp yarn. Greater the warp linear- density, heavier must be the dropper.
HEALDS
Healds are designed for the shed formation on the loom. They are of different designs. The total no. of healds depends upon the weaving repeat in the warp, the kind of feed and density of the fabric in the warp. The set of the aids on the looms is called harness.
REED
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The reed is used for controlling the spreading of warp ends throughout the cloth width and for beating up of the weft to the fabric fell.
The number of warp ends drawn through the reed dent depends upon the structure of the fabric.
MACHINES
Machine: Stabuli delta 110 No. Of machines: 1 Speed: 40-140 ends/mins
LOOM SHED
Weaving involves using a loom to interlace of two sets of threads at right angles to each other: the warp and the weft (older woof). One warp thread is called and an end and one weft thread is a pick, the warp threads are held taut and in parallel order, typically in a loom of which there are many different types. Weaving can be summarized as a repetition of these three actions:
Primary Motions Secondary Motions Tertiary Motions
PRIMARY MOTIONS
Shedding: Where the ends are separated by raising or lowering heald frames (heddles) to form a clear space where the pick can pass
Picking: Where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom by an air-jet, a rapier or a shuttle
Beating-up or battening: Where the weft is pushed up against the fell of the cloth by the reed.
SECONDARY MOTIONS
Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a regulated speed to make the filling even and of the required design
Take up Motion: Takes up the woven fabric in a regulated manner so that the density of filling is maintained
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TERTIARY MOTIONS:
The stop motions: to stop the loom in the event of a Thread break. The two main stop motions are the
Warp stop motion Weft stop motion
THE PRINCIPAL PARTS OF A LOOM ARE:
The frame The warp-beam or weavers beam The cloth-roll The heddles and their mounting, The reed
MACHINES
Vardhman has 4 loom shed units. All the units have air jet looms. Air jet looms are shuttle less looms that use compressed air to propel the weft thread.
Air jet looms are used for bulk weaving. It requires an even yarn and good quality of sizing. Air jet looms are used to produce basic weaves.
Auro weaving mills have a total of 264 air jet looms.
Count range: 70 0/e to 80s singles, (10,12,14,16,20,30,40,50,60,70,80)(for lycra)
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Total loom : 264
Airjet looms : 264
unit 1
72 airjet looms
unit 2
88 airjet looms
unit 3
48 airjet looms
unit 3A
48 airjet looms
Airjet looms (72+88+48+56)
Tsudakoma
Tsuakoma 205i
Tsudakoma 209i
Tsudakoma zax
Picanol
Picanol OMNI
Picanol delta-x
Toyota
Toyota jet 710
KNOTTING
Process to join warp of new weaver beam with old warp sheet using knotting machine.
GAITING
Gaiting is to replace old weaver’s beam, drop wires, healdwires, and reed with new one.
AIR JET WEAVING:
Jet looms take the weft yarn across the loom by using high speed air blast nozzles. The drag force of air carries the yarn from one side to the other. The initial propulsion force is provided by a main nozzle. Relay nozzles (auxiliary nozzles) along the shed produce additional booster jets to
help carry the yarns across the loom. The fabric width of air-jet loom is normally narrower than rapier or projectile loom Jet looms are faster than projectile or rapier looms (picks per minute). However, they cannot produce as great a variety of fabrics (no heavy or bulky yarns),
nor can they produce as a wide a fabric (jets have less yarn-carrying power). Jet looms also do less damage to the warp since there is no abrasion of this yarn by
the jet of air, unlike the projectile or rapier.
SAFETY MEASURES Before starting m/c, keep one’s hands away from reed & other loom parts For drawing yarns manually, use yarn drawer Keep emergency button pressed if one has to work on loom
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FOLDING AND INSPECTION
In folding and inspection department the fabric produced is inspected on the basis of 4 point system and then folded or rolled as per customer requirements and then the bales are sorted on basis of the number of defects found. The bales are sorted in A, B and D grades.
Purpose of this department is to check for defects on the woven fabric roll.
This is carried out on machines where the roll was monitored warp wise against an illuminated background screen such that the lamina of the fabric was visible & the operator could stop & mark a defect where he found a defect in the fabric.
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4 POINT INSPECTION SYSTEM
Length of defect in fabric, either length or width points allotted
Up to 3 inch 1
Over 3 inch. Upto 6 inch 2
Over 6 inch upto 9 inch 3
Over 9 inch 4
Holes and openings 1 inch or less 2
Over 1 inch 4
PROCESS FLOW OF FOLDING AND INSPECTION
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Inspection
Folding/Rolling
Bale Sorting
Bale Packing
MACHINES
INSPECTION MACHINES
Machine: almac inspection machine
No. Of machines: 9
ROLLING MACHINES
Machine: laxmi lx450 ( for lycra) and laxmi rolling machine (for 2 ply and fine fabrics)
No. Of machines: 2
FOLDING MACHINES
Machine: laxmi folding machine
No. Of machines: 1
DEFECTS NOTED DURING INSPECTION
MINOR DEFECTS
Stain
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Slub Contamination
MAJOR DEFECTS
Bent pick Double pick Thick place Stain mark Oily weft Weft distortion Stained pick
The defects are marked by tying a thread at the selvage where the defect has occurred.
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MAHAVIR SPINNING MILLSMahavir spinning mills is a part of Vardhman textiles. Thread as well as fabric is produced in Mahavir spinning mills. Both greige and yarn dyed fabric is produced there.
The raw material comes from:
Auro spinning mill, baddi Arisht spinning mill, baddi Arihant spinning mill, malerkotla Vardhman fabrics limited, budhni. Vsm, baddi Vtl satlapur.
WEAVING OF YARN DYED FABRICS
For the production of yarn dyed fabrics the yarn has to be dyed prior to weaving. Both the warp and the weft yarns are dyed prior to weaving in the Auro Dyeing Unit.
The warp yarns are wrapped on the warper’s beam and sent to auro dyeing. The beams are dyed as they are and sent back for weaving. For the weft packages of yarns are sent to auro dyeing which are dyed in cheese form.
After dyeing the yarns are used to weave checks and plaids.
PREPARATORY UNIT
In the preparatory unit the warp yarns are prepared for weaving. The preparatory unit consists of
Warping section and rewinding section Sizing section Drawing-in section
WARPING SECTION
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WARPING SECTION
DIRECT WARPING
SECTIONAL WARPING
DIRECT WARPING
It is used for long runs of grey yarns, single colour yarns and simple patterns of coloured yarns. It can be used to make warp sheets. The total amount of coloured yarns involved is less than 15% of the total.
Suction devices are provided in between warping machines which suck all the unwanted cotton fibres flying.
MACHINES
Machine: Moenus Sucker Gmbh(Germany) Comwarp, Beninger Ben-Direct No. Of machines: 2 Creel capacity: Moenus Sucker- 672 Beninger- 656
AMBIENT CONDITIONS IN WARPING DEPARTMENT
Temperature range: 27-30°c Relative humidity: 60-80%
SECTIONAL WARPING (PATTERN WARPING)
It is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics where the amount of coloured yarn is more than 15% of the total.
Sectional warping is best suited for very long warps (15 yards or more), any size or style of yarn and 2 inch repeats (most sections on a sectional warp beam are 2" wide). It is not very well suited for mixed warps with many or random yarn changes. It also requires more space and equipment.
MACHINE
Machine: Benninger Ben-tronic , Prashant Gamatex ESP 1100 No. of machines: Benninger-6, PRASHANT Gamatex- 2
REWINDING SECTION
Rewinding is done to utilize the remaining yarn in packages after the completion of warping beam and to form big packages from small packages for selling purpose.
MACHINE
Machine: P.S. METTLER RECO DA No. of machines: 2 Package produced: open wound package
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No. of spindles: 60(on two sides)
SIZING SECTION
SIZING KITCHEN
Size is prepared at the top floor in the sizing kitchen and transferred to the machine with the help pipes.
SIZING APPARTUS
SIZING INGREDIENTS
Texoplast Sonycryl Mutton tallow Water Ketanol Antistatic
SIZING MACHINE
No. OF MACHINEs: 3 Tsudakoma: Only For Direct Beam
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SIZING SECTION
SIZING KITCHEN SIZING MACHINE
PREMIXER PRESSURE COOKER STORAGE VESSEL
Moenus Sucker: Both For Direct & Sectional Beam Moenus Sucker: Only For Sectional Beam.
SIZE PICK UP PERCENTAGE
Open End Yarn-8% Compact Yarn-12% Carded Yarn- 16% Combed Yarn- 16%
DRAWING-IN SECTION
Drawing-in is the final preparatory process.
Auto drawing: Here drawing is done automatically using rapier hook.
MACHINE: Staubli(KOREA) DELTA-110
Manual Drawing-in: Done manually to draw warp yarn through drop pins, heald frames, and reed.
Two workmen:
Reacher-in: puts warp in drawing-in pin or needle. Pinner: Holding drawing-in pin& draws the warp yarns through drop pins, Heald
frames & reed.
LOOM SHED
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DRAWING-IN DEPARTMENT
MANUAL DRAWING-IN AUTOMATIC DRAWNG-IN
WASHING & CLEANING SECTION
Total loom : 224
Airjet loom s : 142 Rapier loom s : 82
KNOTTING
It is the process to join warp of new weaver beam with old warp sheet using knotting machine.
Type: grey and dyed yarn Machine: staubli knotting machine. Approximate time: 1-1.5hr.
GAITING
Gaiting is to replace old weaver’s beam, drop wires, healdwires,reed with new one.
Machine: GENKINGER HOBTEX hydraulic gaiting machine.
QUALITY ASSURANCE/FOLDING DEPARTMENT
Inspection zone. Bale sorting zone. Bale packing zone.
MACHINES
INSPECTION MACHINE
No. of machines: 7 Manufacturer: Laxmi
MENDING TABLE
No. of machines: 2 Manufacturer: Laxmi
FOLDING MACHINE
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AIRJET LOOMS (24+118)
TSUDAKOMA ZAX
TSUDAKOMA ZAX9100
RAPIER LOOMS (6+74+2)
PICANOL GTX
PICANOL GAMMAX
DORNIER GPX
No. of machines: 2 Manufacturer: Laxmi
ROLING MACHINE
No. of machines: 1 Manufacturer: Laxmi
INSPECTION CUM ROLLING MACHINE
No. of machines: 1 Manufacturer: Navjyot machine works ltd
BALE PRESSING MACHINE
No. of machines: 1 Manufacturer: Laxmi
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
Designing plays an important role in marketing. At Vardhman, the people who are in marketing deal with the customer and gives the designing department about what is to be made and what is the demand of the customer. Marketing sector gives the designing department information regarding the sales.
Vardhman Industries creative department mainly deals with the designing and development of checks and stripes and creative fabrics with different weaves for suiting and shirting. To achieve this, the unit follows a certain procedure.
PROCESS
Samples are made, Sent to the Customers, The demand is identified, And the required design and quantity are supplied.
CENTRAL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT CENTE (CPDC)
This is the main head of the design and prototype department of Vardhman Textiles. It has 3 main departments functioning under it,
1. CDC: Creative Design Cell2. PDC: Product Development Cell3. Pilot Plant
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The Pilot Plant has 3 Sizing machines, 4 warping machines and 16 looms .
They deal with all types of yarns such as, Viscose, Linen, cotton, polyester, polyester cotton mic, core spun yarn (CSY), etc.
The CDC department works on 2 seasons per year. Apart from that, they have the routine development team that functions throughout the year on trending designs and trends.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT CENTER
Research Selection of raw material Process control Process development Product testing Quality assurances Specification tests
INSTRUMENTS USED IN R & D LAB
Tension meter, Digital thread counter , Weighing scale, Circular cutter, Stirrer, Tachometer, Shore hardness tester, Yarn appearance tester, Automatic twist tester, Single yarn strength, tester, Bess lay balance, Desiccators, Moisture meter, Tearing strength tester, Lea strength tester, Refract meter.
AURO TEXTILES40 | P a g e
VARDHMAN Groups has stepped into the textile industry with the setup of AURO Textiles at Baddi (H.P). Chief Minister of Himachal Pradesh, Mr. Prem Kumar Dhumal inaugurated it and its production started in December 2000.
The whole plant covers an area of 12 acres of land. Since Textile field is new to this group so they had their technical collaboration with the renowned group of Japan “TOKAI SENKO”. All the machinery installed in plant was imported from Japan, Italy & Germany. At present the plant has the capacity to produce 30 lakh Meter/ Month of fabric.
The plant is self-sufficient in prospect of the following: -
Power Supply as it has its own Power Generation Plant. Boiler for steam and, Effluent Treatment Plant for the water used in the processing of fabric.
The plant not only uses the above utilities (power and steam) for its own consumption but also supply to its sister concerns also as: -
POWER
Auro Weaving Mills 100% Export Oriented Unit Auro Spinning mills
STEAM
Auro dyeing VSGM 100 % Export oriented unit Auro Weaving mills
The raw material for AURO TEXTILES Comes from
Auro Weaving Mills Mahavir Spinning Mills
Greige fabric or piece dyed fabric comes from both Auro spinning mills and Mahavir spinning mills. Yarn dyed fabric comes only from Mahavir spinning mills.
AURO TEXTILES HAS FOUR MAJOR DEPARTMENTS
1. Personnel & IR Department.
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2. Commercial Department.3. Engineering Department.4. Production Department.
THE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT OF AURO TEXTILES IS DIVIDED INTO THE FOLLOWING SECTIONS:
Preparatory section Dyeing section Finishing section Inspection and folding Technical section
PREPARATORY SECTION
The Fabric from the mills is received in the following Forms:
Roll Form Bale form Pallet form
Firstly the grey cloth is send to technical department where the physical and chemical testing of grey cloth takes place. After testing of cloth, all the reason is written in the dispo sheet by technical department and a copy of all is send to all the concerned departments and now it is ready for grey checking which is examined on grey checking machine.
Then fabric ends are stitched so that a fabric batch of longer length is formed. This facilitates that processing can be carried out continuously. The fabric ends are stitched together with help of stitching machines.
The fabric received by Auro textiles contains many natural and chemical impurities which have to be removed to increase the dye affinity of the fabric and to add value to the fabric.
PROCESSESS DONE IN THE PREPARATORY SECTION
Opening and stitching of fabric Pre-treatment Mercerization Mechanical finishes (seuding)
TYPES OF STITCHING MACHINE
There are two types of stitching machine depending upon the type of the fabric.
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PICKASE M/C: - 2 Thread (Japan) (for normal finished material) JUKI M/C: - 5 Thread (Japan) (those material which are going to be peached)
PRE-TREATMENT
The pre-treatment of fabric is done to remove impurities, add value to the fabric and enhance its appeal.
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PROCESS FLOW OF PRETREATMENT
SINGEING
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SINGEING
DESIZING
SCOURING
BLEACHING
WASHING
DRYING
Singeing is the burning off of loose fibres sticking out of textile goods. It is usually the first step carried out after weaving. Singeing is done through a flame produced by propane and air.
PURPOSE
Clean fabric surface Reduce pilling Increased wettability. Improved visibility of the fabric structure Decreased contamination through removal of fluff and lint.
MACHINES
No. of machines: 2
Machine 1:
Osthoff- senge (Germany) Speed: 70 metres per min No. of burners: 2 Pressure: 12 mili bar
Machine 2:
Sando iron (Japan) No. of burners: 4 No. Of Burners: 4 Gas Used: Propane & air mixture (85:15) Angle of gas burners: 45° Temp. Of flame: from 500 0C to 1800 0C No. Of cooling cylinders: 5 Pressure of steam in 2 drying cylinders: 2 kg/cm.sq. No. Of brushing rollers: 6pairs(moving in direction opposite to fabric)
SPEED OF FABRIC ACCORDING TO THE FABRIC QUALITY
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S.No. FABRIC QUALITY SPEED (m/min)1 Bottom weight 60 – 70
2. Top weight (Shirting) 90 – 100
3 For 2 ply 50-70
4 Yarn dyed 120
DESIZING AND SCOURING
Desizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp yarns in woven fabrics. The size applied on the fabric makes fabric hydrophobic and all other processing is carried in water as the medium so it is necessary to remove the size.
Scouring: Even after desizing the fabric’s absorbency is still the main problem as it contains fats and waxes (both added and natural). The main purpose of scouring is to remove natural as well as added impurities essentially of water repellent character as possible and make the fabric highly absorbent without damaging. In the Auro Textile desizing and scouring processes are conducted simultaneously at the same time in one operation.
Washing: After each washer, a nip roller and an expander roller is provided, so that fabric becomes free of creases whenever it passes from one washer to another and also for the complete removal of impurities.
PURPOSE
Removal of added impurities like starch Weight loss Improved wettability
TYPES OF DESIZING
Enzymatic desizing ( for yarn dyed fabrics) Oxidative desizing (for greige fabric)
PROCESS
The fabric is first washed with hot water in washer 1 to washer 4. The temperature is 90 degree Celsius. Due to the hot water wash 30-40% size is removed. Then a cold wash is given to the fabric in washer 5. Then the fabric goes to the desizing scouring saturator where it is padded with chemicals and then sent to the reaction chamber- a where it is allowed to stay for some time so that the chemicals react with the fabric. The scouring and desizing chemicals are added in the same chamber.
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CHEMICALS USED IN DESIZING SCOURING SATURATOR
Scouring agent: caustic soda( naoh) Desizing agent: sodium persulphate Wetting agent: it increases the surface tension of water which increases the
absorbency in fabric
MACHINES
Old perble machine: used for desizing, scouring and bleaching New perble machine: used for desizing, scouring and bleaching Pad steamer machine: used for enzymatic desizing Company: Sando iron (Japan) No. of machines: 3 Capacity of saturator tank: 500 lt.
CHEMICALS USED IN SATURATOR AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ARE
SODIUM PERSULPHATE : It is an oxidative Desizing agent. The biggest advantage of using Sodium Persulphate is its mode of action. The mode of action of Persulphate is much faster and is much more economical. The padding of Sodium Persulphate is done at room temperature because of the fact that other chemicals of the saturator catalytically decompose it.
NaOH : It is used as scouring agent for cotton fabric. SERRIX 2UDI : It’s a sequestering agent MORPON : It is a wetting agent.
CONCENTRATION OF NAOH USED FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC
S.NO. FABRIC TYPE NAOH CONC. GPL
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1. 100% Cotton (B/W) 602. 100% Cotton 30 s 503. 100% Cotton (SHIRTING) 554. 2 PLY Fabric 605. Polyester /Cotton 30
BLEACHING
Bleaching is the process of removing natural pigments and vegetable impurities. Oxidative bleaching is done with help of hydrogen peroxide and sodium hypochlorite.
For yarn dyed fabrics, fabrics dyed using reactive dyes are not bleached while fabrics dyed with vat dyes are bleached.
PURPOSE
Improved whiteness Level dyeing properties
PROCESS
After the reaction chamber-A the fabric is washed in hot water in washer 1 to washer 4. Then the fabric is given a cold wash in washer 5 to bring the fabric to room temperature. Then the fabric goes to peroxide bleaching saturator where it is padded with bleaching chemicals. Then the fabric goes to reaction chamber-B where it is kept for some time so that reaction takes place.
CHEMICALS USED IN THE PEROXIDE BLEACHING SAURATOR
Bleaching agent: hydrogen peroxide Caustic soda: to make the pH alkaline Sequestering agent: to remove metallic particles which might tear the fabric
MACHINES
Old perble range: bleaching with sodium hypochlorite New perble range: bleaching with hydrogen peroxide
CHLORITE BLEACHING:
This type of bleaching is carried out in Old Perble Range not in NEW Perble Range i.e this section is not present in NEW PERBLE RANGE. Aim of chlorite bleaching is to decolourise the
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natural colouring matter present in the textile material to leave the fabric in more absorbent state than that of grey. When the goods are passed from only NaClO2 solution it is called half bleach, which are usually to be sent for dyeing of darker shades.
After washing range the fabric passes from saturator and then to reaction chamber of B range for NaClO2 bleaching, where dwell time for bleaching is given. This is basically done due to the formation of highly toxic chlorine dioxide gas. It involves padding the fabric through the saturator maintained at room temperature containing bleaching chemicals. And then passing it onto the Reaction chamber where a hold is given depending upon the type of fabric, so that the, proper swelling of fiber can occur and thereby causing proper penetration of chemicals.
SODIUM CHLORITE CONCENTRATIONS ARE GIVEN BELOW
S.No. FABRIC TYPE SODIUM CHLORITE (gpl)1 100% Cotton B/W 20 to 222 100% Cotton (Shirting) 163 Polyester/Cotton 14
WASHING
The fabric after passing through the pull out section of the reaction chamber enters the four washers for effective washing. Temperature of the washers is kept at 85 degree Celsius. The counter current flow of water is used in all these washers so as to have a thorough washing of the fabric.
After each washer there are nipping mangle, nip pressure of each washer is kept to 2 ton. In order to avoid formation of creases the washers are provided with an expander roll at their respective exits. After every washer is a dancer roll so as to maintain the adequate tension in the fabric. After four washers there is a Plaitor.
This arrangement is in OLD PERBLE not in NEW PERBLE. This Plaitor is used only when there is no further processing like bleaching, for example fabrics containing Lycra are not chlorite bleached, so these are plaited at this very stage. For 100% cotton and P/C blends this Plaitor is by-passed. The fabric then passes through the cold washer so as to lower the temperature to room conditions before entering the chlorite saturator.
DRYING
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There are three VDR’s to dry the fabric. Each of which consists of 10 drying cylinders, the last one consists of 7 drying cylinders and 3 cooling cylinders, at the end, so as to cool the dried fabric before the Plaitor plaits it on the trolley. The fabric after washing is passed through nip bowls having a pressure of 5 tons. Then it passes through the first drying range. The drying cylinders are steam heated. The main steam pipe is having a pressure of 6 kg/cm2
and so far each drying range there is a pressure of 2 kg/cm2. Each drying cylinder is provided with two steam lines. One is for heating the cylinders and other for removing exhaust steam. Cooling cylinders are cooled with cold water.
MERCERIZATION
Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread mostly employed to give cotton a lustrous appearance. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda 240gppl) is the chemical used in Mercerization.
PURPOSE
Improve dye affinity and yield. Improve breaking strength. Improve dimensional stability. Improve chemical reactivity. Improve fabric smoothness. Improve durability of fabric
MACHINES
No. of machines: 2 Machine: sando iron mercerization range (JAPAN)
PROCESS
The fabric after the pre-treatment is sent for mercerization. The fabric is first padded with caustic soda in caustic saturator 1 then the fabric goes to the timing cylinder where some time is given to the fabric to react with naoh. Then the fabric is again padded with caustic soda in caustic saturator 2. Then again fabric goes to the timing cylinder. After this the fabric is stretched in the feed mangle. Then the fabric goes to the tenter chain where the fabric is stretched weft wise to maintain its equal width in the fabric. Then the fabric passes through 5 water showers where the caustic soda is washed off. Then the fabric is washed in a series of 9 washers. Washer 8 gives a neutralization bath to the fabric and washer 9 gives a cold wash to the fabric. Then the fabric is dries in the vertical drying range.
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PROCESS FLOW OF MERCERIZATION
MECHANICAL FINISHES (SEUDING)
Seuding or emerizing finish is given with a cylinder covered with emery in order to make a raised nap even surface and give lustre to the fabric.
The abrasion due to the emery rollers gives the fabric a smooth surface.
The fabric and the emery rollers move in opposite directions which causes abrasion of the fabric surface.
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FABRIC IS FED USING GUIDE ROLLERS
CAUSTIC SATURATOR 1
TIMING CYLINDER
CAUSTIC SATURATOR 2
TIMING CYLINDER
FEED MANGLE
TENTER CHAIN
WATER SHOWERS (5)
WASHER 1- WASHER 7 (HOT WASH)
WASHER 8 (NEUTALIZATION)
WASHER 9 (COLD WASH)
VERICAL DRYING RANGE
MACHINES
No. of machines: 5
Machine 1- 4: xetema (Germany)
Machine 5: lafer with 24 drum rollers (Italy) (used for a more peached surface)
PROCESS FLOW OF SUEDING
DYEING SECTION
PROCESS FLOW OF DYEING
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STITCHINGPADDING
WITH WATER
DRYING
PASSING OVER
EMERY ROLLERS
PASSING OVER
BRUSH ROLLER
PLAITER
DYE STOREDISSOULUTION OF COLOUR IN
DISSOLVER
PILOT PLANT (COLOUR IS TESTED ON
FABRIC)
PAD DRY MACHINE/
THERMOFIX (FOR POLESYTER)
PAD STEAMER (dye fixed)
MACHINES
Colour dissolving machines: 2 (330 litres and 100 litres) Pad dry machines: 3 (monforts) Pad steamer: 2 28 tanks for colour preparation and the colour lines are underground
TANK AREA/COLOUR PREPARATION AREA
The dye stock is first prepared from the lab dip (target sample), provided by the Pilot Plant,
and then the necessary additions are made in tank area so as to obtain that shade in
bulk .All the additions are made in the dye stock tank itself.
FINISHING SECTION
The fabric is finished in the finishing section where up to 23 chemical finishes can be given to the fabric like soft finishes, water repellent finish, Teflon finish etc.
PURPOSE
Improved Appearance: Lustre, Whiteness Improved Feel: Softness, Fullness Improved Wearing qualities: Anti crease It gives special properties required for particular use: Water proofing, Flame proofing It covers the faults of the original cloth Increases the weight of the fabric Increases the sales value of the material Improves the natural attractiveness of the fabric
STENTER
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S.NO MACHINE NO.OF MACHINES MAKE1. PAD-DRY THREE MONFORTS,GERMANY
2. PAD-STEAMER ONE SANDOIRON WORKS,JAPAN
3. HT-STEAMER ONE AROILI, ITALY
4. THERMOFIX ONE MONFORTS, THERMAX, ITALY
Stenter is used to correct the bowing and skewing in the fabric. The computer senses the bowing and skewing corrects it with help of bow rolls and skew rolls. The width is also set in the fabric with help of stenter.
4 stenter machines: 3 monforts and 1 brumka The machine has 7 chambers
PROCESS FLOW OF STENTER
SANFORIZATION
A fabric has tendency to shrink after washing because the fabric is stretched during various processes. So if the fabric shrinks after the customer washes it will cause difficulty and loss of customers so the fabric is pre-shrunk so that its residual shrinkage is reduced to minimum. This process is called sanforization
No. of sanforization machines: 2
PROCESS FLOW OF SANFORIZATION
54 | P a g e PRE MOTION CYLINDERS
COLD WATER
ROLLERS
RUBBER BELT(SHRINKA
GE)
STEAM HEATING CYLINDER
COLD WATER
RUBBER BELT
ROLLERS
PRE-SHRUNK FABRIC
STITCHING
PADDING
MAHLO UNIT (TO
PREVENT BOWING
AND SKEWIN
G)
FABRIC PASSING THROUGH OVER
FEED
FABRIC ENTERY
TO STENTER
HEATED CHAMBE
R
COOLING CYLINDE
RSPLAITER
CALENDARING
Calendaring is a process of pressing or ironing a fabric at high speed and under high pressure.
PURPOSE
Smoothing the surface of the fabric. Increasing the fabric lustre. Closing the threads of woven fabrics. Decreasing the air permeability. Increasing the fabric opacity. Improving the fabric handle. Flattening slubs. Obtaining silk like/ high gloss finish. Surface patterning by embossing.
MACHINE
No. Of machines: 1 Machine: ramisch guarneri calendar No. of rollers: 3 (1 steel, 1 nylon and 1 cotton) Maximum width of fabric: 2000 mm With a metal detector and a seam detector. Few centimetres before and after the seam the fabric is not calendared.
DIFFERENT FINISHES DONE IN AURO TEXTILES
CTSF
CTZF
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STENTER SANFORIZATION INSPECTION AND FOLDING
STENTER CALENDAR SANFORIZATION INSPECTION AND FOLDING
CTDA
CURING
Chemical finishes like wrinkle free, nano care, and water repellent have to be cured to fix them.
No. Of machines: 1 Machine: monforts thermex
INSPECTION AND FOLDING
After finishing the fabric goes for inspection which is on the first floor. The fabric is sent in trolleys which are sent in lifts to the folding and inspection section.
Maximum weight for lift: 1.5 tones
The fabric is inspected by the 4 point system. Some defects that can be corrected are corrected with help of tweezers. Other defects are marked and then later on they are cut off.
After inspection the fabric is either rolled and then wrapped with cling film or folded and packed in cartons as per customers’ requirements.
Inspection machines
No. Of machines: 11 Machine: erhardt+leiner kf20
Winding and wrapping machines
No. Of winding machines: 7 No. Wrapping machines: 3 (penguin)
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DRYER STENTER SANFORIZATION INSPECTION AND FOLDING
TECHNICAL SECTION
The technical section of Auro textiles consist of
Testing lab (physical and chemical) Lab dip section Pilot plant Grouping section Pdc (product development centre)
TESTING LAB
In the testing various physical and chemical properties of the fabrics is tested before sending it to the customer. The various tests conducted are tensile strength, tear strength, gsm, pilling, wash fastness etc.
Machines
Random tumble pilling machine Tear strength testing machine Tensile strength testing machine Epi/ppi measuring machine Automatic crocking machine. Moisture measure Colour fastness to light tester(atlas) Spray tester Washing machines Tumble dryer. Laundero-meter (atlas)
Dark room
Light box for checking shades(macbeth spectralight 3)
PILOT PLANT
LAB DIP SECTION
In THE LAB dip section THE FOLLOWING Activities are carried out:
Recipe prediction Visual library is there for colour matching
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When order comes CCM(computer colour matching) is used to match colour and predict colour recipe
On the basis of wavelength spectral reading of a colour is done (great macbeth)
PILOT PLANT
After the recipe is predicted and prepared using technorama machine the dye prepared is sent to the pilot plant where a sample is dyed in machines similar to the machines in the plant. The sample is first padded with dye, then dried and then dye is fixed in the steaming chamber. After that the shade of the sample is matched with the standard sent by the customer, if shade matches further testing is done if not then again the recipe is prepared and the process is continued
GROUPING
In grouping section the fabrics are checked lot to lot for shade variation with the help of light boxes. Various physical characteristics of fabric are observed and the fabrics are grouped accordingly.
PDC (PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT CENTRE)
Research Selection of raw material Process control Process development Product testing Quality assurances Specification tests Yardages are run by pdc Development of new products (neon dyes, moisture managemnt finishes) See what the customer needs
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PDC (CENTRAL CONECTION)
QA MARKETING PERSON PRODUCTION PILOT PLAN WEAVING
AURO DYEING
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Auro dyeing is a part of Auro textiles. In Auro dyeing fibre and yarns are dyed. Fibre is dyed to make melange fabrics and yarns are dyed for yarn dyed fabrics. Yarns for yarn dyed fabrics made in Mahavir spinning mills are dyed in Auro dyeing.
Auro dyeing dyes a variety of materials like 100% cotton, 100% polyester, 100% viscose and blends like polyester cotton, polyester-viscose, wool blends acrylic blends.
The daily production capacity of Auro dyeing is 28 tonnes per day
Fibre dyeing: 13 tonnes per day Yarn dyeing: 15 tonnes per day
The production department of Auro dyeing has the following sections;
Yarn dyeing unit 1 Yarn dyeing unit 2 Pre winding section 1 and 2 Post winding section Conditioning room Colour store Chemical store R & D department Spdm and lab dip section Technorama room Quality check section
FIBRE DYEING
MACHINES
Machine: hisaka f/d1It has three tanks, 1 main tank, 1 additional tank and 1 dissolving tank which has heating coils in it.
No. of machines: 3
PROCESS
The fibre is received by Auro dyeing in form of bales. The fibres are cleaned and free from impurities. The bales are opened and the fibres are fed into the carrier with help of feed lattice panel.
After loading the fibres are pressed into the carrier using pressure and weight.
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Dye is prepared in the dyeing machine in the dissolving tank using the dye recipe already approved by the R & D department. The temperature of the dye is maintained with help of heating coils in the dissolving tank.
After the fibre is dyed about 5 grams of dyed sample is sent for quality checking, if the shade achieved is correct then rest of the processing is carried on. If not some corrections are made in the dye recipe and the fibres are dyed again.
After dyeing the water from the fibres is extracted using a hydro extractor and a cake is formed. The carrier is then emptied and the cake is placed on the cake stand.
After this the rest of the processing is done. First the cake of fibres is broken in a cake breaker, i.e. the fibres are separated.
Then the fibres pass through a series of tanks where washing is done so that the extra dye is stripped off. The first tank contains soap solution. In the second tank a hot wash is given. In the next tank a cold wash is given to bring the fibres to room temperature. In the last tank softening of the fibres is done.
After that the fibres are forwarded to the hopper 2 where the fibres are slightly dried before hydro extraction.
Then water is extracted using hydro extractor. Then again fibres are sent to hopper 3 where the fibres are separated from each other. Then tumble dry is done.
After tumble drying sorting of fibres is done, i.e. any fibres of different shade are taken out.
Then the fibres are pressed and packed in a bale form. The bale contains information like bale number, lot number, shade, size, weight etc.
END USE
The dyed fibres are used to create melange fabrics. They are sent to arihant spinning mills Ludhiana which is a part of Vardhman.
PROCESS FLOW OF FIBRE DYEING
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LOADING AND PRESSING
PREPARATION OF DYE IN THE TANK
DYEING
QUALITY CHECK
IF OK, HYDRO EXTRACTION
EMPTYING OF CARRIER
CAKE FORMED
CAKE BREAKER
WASHING RANGE( SOAPING, HOT WASH, COLD WASH, SOFTNER)
HOPPER 2
HYDRO EXTRACTOR
HOPPER 3
TUMBLE DRYER
SORTING
PACKING(BALE FORM)
YARN DYEING
When dyeing is done after the fibre has been spun into yarn, it is described yarn dyeing. There are several methods of yarn dyeing. The purpose is to have the dyestuff penetrate to the fibres in the core of the yarn.
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The primary reason for dyeing in the yarn form is to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different –colour yarns in the weaving process.
PARTS OF YARN DYEING
Pre winding section Yarn dyeing Drying Post winding Conditioning
PRE-WINDING
The yarn packages received by Auro dyeing are wound on paper cones. Uniform dyeing is not possible with paper cones so the packages are re-wound on plastic perforated cones which are colour coded according to the colour in which the package will be dyed. This is called soft winding. The package created is called a soft package.
The perforated cone ensures uniform dye penetration and the plastic cones are reusable after the dyeing is done.
If the customer demands singeing of the yarns is also done.
MACHINES
Machine: SSM package winding machine No. of machines: 21 No. of spindles: 128 Density of package: 0.38 - 0.40 gm/cc Weight: 145 gms
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DYEING
After soft packages of yarn are made the packages are loaded onto long cylindrical rods which are mounted on the carrier. These rods have small pores in it which allows movement of dyeing chemicals in and out during dyeing process.
Yarn dyeing can also be done in beam form, i.e. instead of a cheese, beams of yarns are loaded in the carrier and dyed. The beams of yarn come from Mahavir spinning mills and are dyed as it is and sent back for weaving process.
The cheeses have to be fixed firmly in the carrier so that the packages are not loosed during dyeing which causes uneven dyeing.
After the dyeing process about 5 grams of yarn is sent for quality check, to check whether the achieved shade is according to the customers demand or not.
If not approved the dye recipe is corrected in the SPDM section (single package dyeing machine) and the dyeing process for the bulk is again carried out.
If approved then the cheeses are either dried in the rapid dryer or sent further to rf dryer for drying.
The beams are dried on the rapid dryer. The whole carrier is fitted into the dryer and the yarns are dried by means of heat.
TEMPERATURE OF DYE LIQUOR
Cotton: 60-120 degree Celsius Polyester: 130 degree Celsius Sulphur dyes: 100 degree Celsius
MACHINES
No. of yarn dyeing machines: 69
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21 SSM SOFT WINDING MACHINES
MODEL- PW2 (ONLY LYCRA) (700-800
M/MIN)
MODEL- TW2 (FINE COUNT)(900 M/MIN)
MODEL- PS6 ( FINE AND COARSE BOTH)
(1100 M/MIN)
MODEL- PS6+(FINE AND COARSE BOTH)
(1400 M/MIN)
DRYING
After dyeing the cheeses are taken off from the carrier and placed into a trolley and transferred into the drying section.
In the drying section first the water is extracted from the yarn packages using a hydro extractor. Then the packages are individually placed on the conveyor belt of the RF dryer and passed through 3 chambers where they are dried. The packages come out from the other end of the machine from where they are transferred to the post winding section.
MACHINES
No. of hydro extractor: 1 (Berta 36)
No. of RF dryer: 2
Machine: RF dryer monga strayfield
POST WINDING
After drying the packages are re-wound on paper cones for packaging. The size of the cone depends on the customers’ requirements.
MACHINES
No. of machines: 13 Speed: 800 metres per min Overhead blowers ( sara elgi nugenis)
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WINDING MACHINES
4 MACHINES SSM-CW8(128
SPINDLES)
6 MACHINES AUTOCONER(60 SPINDLES TWO
SIDES)
2 MACHINES P.S. METTLER
(120 SPINDLES)
1 MACHINE VERSA(120 SPINDLES)
69 YARN DYEING MACHINES
7 MACHINES HISAKA
43 MACHINES FONGS
5 MACHINES FUJI
14 MACHINES THIES
DEFECTS
Too loose or to tight wounding Yarn should cover the holes of the cheese Mix up ( different shades in same cheese)
CONDITIONING
The normal moisture content of cotton is around 6-6.5%. After converting to yarn, cotton has only 4% of moisture. A conditioning machine imparts required amount of moisture and strength to the yarns. It uses steam, high temperature and pressure. Steam penetrates into the material and increases the strength of the yarn. If conditioning of yarn is not done, problems like snarling and end twists can occur.
MACHINE
No. of machine: 1 Machine: SIEGER Conditioning Machine Cycle: 1 hour Temperature: 55 degree Celsius
PACKAGING
After conditioning the yarn packages are packed in cartons and sent to the customers. The information written on the cartons are:
Count Shade number Lot number Number of cones Net weight Gross weight Date
COLOUR STORE
The colour store has all the dyes used in the dyeing of fibres and yarns. The dye recipe is prepared in the colour store for bulk dyeing. When an order is placed the R & D department prepares a colour recipe according to the colours available in the colour store. After the recipe is tested it is converted for bulk dyeing. The recipe is given to the colour store where it is prepared and given to the dyeing section.
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SOME DYE COMPANIES
Jakazol Hunstman Dystar Atul ltd.
CHEMICAL STORE
For preparing the dye recipe and washing procedures chemicals are required which are kept in the chemical store and supplied from there. The chemicals store contains wetting agents, softeners, chelating agents etc.
SPDM AND LAB DIP SECTION
SPDM section is the single package dyeing section in which 1 kg packages are dyed. Spdm machines are used when there less order for a particular colour. They are also used when the shade of a bulk dyed lot does not match the given standard so a single package is taken form that lot and redyed and a correct re dying recipe is prepared and then the same recipe is used for bulk dying that lot.
OBBDM SECTION
OBBDM is the open box beaker dying machine. When an order is placed 3 samples of a shade are prepared in OBBDM machines and given to the customer. If the customer approves one of the sample and then the order proceeds.
QUALITY ASSURANCE
The quality assurance department checks the quality of the incoming as well the outgoing material. The quality control department checks the greige yarn, its strength, dye affinity, colour uptake. They check that the shade of the dyed products match the standard provided by the customer. They check the colour fastness of the dye and perform various tests on the material going to the customer so that there are no complaints regarding the quality of the product.
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CONCLUSION
Vardhman is one of the biggest names in textiles worldwide. Our Internship in the company gave us immense exposure to the processes that take place in the production of fabric in many forms starting from the fibre stage up to final packing and despatch to the buyers.
The experience of being a part of such a big company for even a short time was amazing and helpful in learning about the different processes in textile manufacturing.
We are very thankful to all the people at Vardhman, Right from executives to the labourers who selflessly helped us gather information and explained everything in detail.
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