A very · 2014. 6. 10. · snacks There are no 7-Elevens here. Even if you’re staying in catered accommodation, you won’t regret having things like muesli bars and trail mix on

Kimberley Special››The road trip

A veryKimberley road trip

Words and photography by georgia rick ard

The Gibb River Road – which cuts a line 660 kilometres long through the middle of the Kimberley – is quite possibly the best

road trip in the country. Here’s why

the road tripgibb river

road

Long live the troopy! 4WDs like this one make

for the best vehicles along The Gibb – they’re unbelievably tough. We hired ours from Apollo Broome, who we can’t

recommend enough. RIGHT, CLOCKWISE

FROM TOP LEFT: The native palm canopy above El Questro’s Zebedee Springs;

handpainted signs are all you have to rely on in many areas; The writer

makes a leap for it in Manning River; Imintji

Roadhouse sells diesel but no petrol.

Australian Traveller | www.australiantraveller.com72

aff from Ballarat is nude. “Mate,” he says grandly, waving his arm around for effect, “you should have heard this guy. Absolutely

off his rocker.” His wife grins delightedly; she’s heard this story before.

An eagle zooms by overhead. No one looks up.Just half-an-hour beforehand, when we’d scrambled

over rocks up-river to this waterhole, I’d been totally unaware that we were about to interrupt an impromptu skinny dip. Nor that we were going to join in. But, never one to shy away from a good story, my partner had promptly stripped off and joined them and, well… what the hell. Now there are four of us, bobbing about in the cool black silk of Manning Gorge, as if there could be nothing more ordinary than a nude chat with strangers in a Kimberley waterhole.

Daff is still going.“So we’re in Derby, just about to start off on The Gibb, and this

guy, he’s a Pom, right? He’s just done the road himself, so I ask him how it was.”

He pauses for effect, then leans in closer. “And he says, ‘Mate, it was rough as. Dusty, hot and the roads

aren’t even sealed for most of it. There were even fires burning on both sides of the road! Me and the missus just got through it as fast as we could.’”

He grins.“The idiot did the whole road in a day!”We all promptly lean back into the water, cackling at the Pom’s

mistake. Bloody foreigners.To be fair, Beef Road, as it was once known, was never intended

as a travel destination. Created in the 1950s to make way for semi-trailers transporting cattle from local stations to abattoirs, the track – more officially known as Gibb River Road, or ‘The Gibb’ – still remains mostly unsealed; a two-lane road looping around homesteads, roadhouses and stations the size of small European countries via 660 kilometres of dusty, hot, famously corrugated dirt-road driving. It’s only too easy to see how an out-of-towner would drive blankly on through.

But for the adventurous and the informed, this thin red line from Derby to Kununurra is a red-hot bucket-list item, and here’s why: the dust, the heat and the inhospitable terrain disguise treasures of every variety. Flat land hides deep, majestic gorges, dry ranges hide cool valleys, and everywhere, almost at every stopping point, there is a cool, hidden, sunlit den; a quiet freshwater pool, a crashing waterfall, or both. It is also, for the most part, too far inland for saltwater crocodiles to stop by, while impressively-high-sounding temperatures (mid 30s to early 40s) are surprisingly bearable, due to the mostly low humidity and cool evenings. Best of all, despite its formidable reputation as an inaccessible last frontier, driving The Gibb can actually be as easy as hiring a 4WD, booking your accommodation and going for it. It’s the perfect cover for keeping the curious coming and the tourists away.

D Kimberley Special››The road trip

73Australian Traveller | www.australiantraveller.com

There are many, many wondrous things to see along The Gibb (and several ways to go about it, see p83 for more) but, no matter which way you do it,

there are some experiences you really, really can’t miss. We’ve narrowed it down to our top seven.

THe seven WondeRs ofTHe Gibb RiveR Road

Land of the crocodile To visit Windjana Gorge is to visit the bottom of a tropical sea – or what was one, some 380 million years ago. It is perhaps here, more so than anywhere else, that the prehistoric heritage of the Kimberley is most tangible: this stretch of land was once part of WA’s own Great Barrier Reef; a living structure almost 1000 kilometres long, which is today preserved here in a Mordor-like gorge of jagged black and orange cliffs. A walk into the valley reveals fossilised remnants of an ancient sea-dwelling creature – the nautiloid – etched into the gorge wall alongside you, and an olive green valley of prehistoric proportions.

We are the only souls here when we visit, and our voices bounce off the canyon walls, echoing back at themselves as if answering their own loneliness. But the highlight is in the middle of it all; a bottle green stillness where dozens upon dozens of freshwater crocodiles lie stationary, only their rippled backs rising from the water. It feels like a land lost in time – and perhaps it is. Where else in the world can you sit so quietly, and observe such a thing?

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Don’t get too close to the water at Windjana – freshwater crocs are much less aggressive than their saltwater cousins, but their bites still call for stitches!

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THe Gibb: faQQ When is the best time to go?The Kimberley’s dry season starts around mid-April, but roads stemming off the Gibb River Road to most of the area’s attractions, as well as many accommodation options, don’t open until May. (Check road conditions at mainroads.wa.gov.au or via the 24-hour hotline on 138 138.) The road remains open and wonderfully free until the end of the season in late October, although it’s busier in school holidays and on long weekends. Also, take as much time as you can. You can’t do this place properly in a week.

Q What if i break doWn?Fear not – The Gibb is still a place of handwritten signs and friendly waves, so if you break down, someone should pass by and stop within a number of hours, or even minutes in peak season. You can minimise your risk of flat tyres by letting them down in Kununurra or Derby before you hit the gravel. (As a rough guide, 5psi should do it, but check with a local mechanic or service station.)

Q is the road really that corrugated?No. In recent years the track has been well graded, almost to the point where the entire thing is suitable for 2WDs. (Almost.)

Q is petrol stupidly expensive?Yes. (Sorry.) There are two roadhouses along the way, Imintji and Mt Barnett, but only Mt Barnett sells petrol. Both sell diesel, however, so look at hiring a car with a diesel engine. On a related note, sure your car has good air conditioning, too – it gets mighty dusty driving with the windows down.

Q What do i need to pack?Water Gibb River Road might be a lot more accessible than it used to be, but you’re still in the middle of the Kimberley – a very remote area with no mobile reception and large fluctuations in temperature. snacks There are no 7-Elevens here. Even if you’re staying in catered accommodation, you won’t regret having things like muesli bars and trail mix on hand. inflatable tyres Or pool noodles, or lilos. Great fun at waterholes. alcohol It can be expensive to buy here, and a challenge to buy in some areas, as many of the local Aboriginal communities are dry.baby wipes Dust. Gets. Everywhere. Want more info? Try these two great websites: gibbriverroad.net and australiasnorthwest.com


The world’s best day spa If you don’t end up experiencing all the sights along this road (and you won’t, not unless you have months to spare), this is arguably the one, true must-do: Bell Gorge.

Unlike most iconic natural wonders, which build with suspense as you get closer until you’re finally greeted with a first, beautiful sighting that smacks you across the face, Bell works backwards. First, it beats any excitement out of you, by making you scramble over boulders and down a precariously steep series of rocks. By the time you’ve arrived some 45 minutes later, you’ll be hot and sweaty and probably trembling, and have almost turned back. Twice. But you won’t care.

This gorge is considered the most beautiful of The Gibb, and with good reason: there are not one, but two Olympic-sized silken black pools here, cupped by an ochre amphitheatre and multi-tiered waterfall, which can be followed downstream to another waterhole, and another, and another. Though that means you’ll usually be surrounded by other visitors – a good 15 people are here when we visit; practically crowded by Kimberley standards – it’s nothing a swim downstream can’t fix. And let us tell you, little in life compares to sitting back and staring at the sky, as some of the world’s purest waters slide over your shoulders from the waterhole above.

23A cast of 482 charactersWe meet Swiss-Germans Tomas and Isabelle at Silent Grove campsite under a blanket of stars, where they sit in camp chairs, matching VBs in hand. For their first visit to Australia, they decided on the Kimberley because “the map showed it had the

least number of people”, says Tomas. They also show off their German travel guide to Australia, which is full of

questionable survival information (‘kangaroos are edible. Shoot between the eyes’), and express amazement at the 4WD tracks here, which they have found so rough in comparison to those of Europe, that at one stage they were convinced they had accidentally turned onto a hiking track, and decided to get out and walk for a while, just to see.

“But it was road,” says Tomas, with a shrug.At another campsite, we meet a gentleman from suburban Melbourne who sadly

never shares his name, but tells us about the bird trap he constructed for his backyard. “In the past year alone,” he says solemnly, “I’ve caught and killed 482 myna birds.”

Indeed the campgrounds are filled with characters. Eighteen-year-old Nathan, a local from the Kupungarri community, wants to know why white fellas get sunburnt. What’s the bump on my back? (It’s a mole.) He hasn’t seen a mole before. Did I know that there’s a type of bark here that you can use to draw bullets from wounds? No, he’s not lying. How big is Sydney? Are there lots of girls there?

Camping is not everyone’s cup of tea, and it’s not the only way to do The Gibb – there are plenty of fantastic lodges and stations to stay at along the way – but if we’re honest, the natural beauty of the area is only half its charm. The rest comes from conversations had along the way, the best of which take place away from the gorges’ grandeur at the dusk-lit hour that campgrounds do best. Indeed, if there was one place in Australia to consider roughing it, this very well could be it.

Australian Traveller | www.australiantraveller.com 75

Even if you’re not keen on scrambling down rocks to get here, a visit to Bell Gorge is worthwhile for the spectacular (and much more accessible) view, about half-an-hour into the walking track.

ABOVE: 18-year-old Nathan, who we met at Mt Barnett Roadhouse, where he – along with all the other local kids – aren’t allowed to make any lolly purchases, unless they’ve attended school. «


Australian Traveller | www.australiantraveller.com Australian Traveller | www.australiantraveller.com76 77

A best-kept national secretMost Kimberley guidebooks don’t have a lot to say about Adcock Gorge. Which is fine by us. The short, five-kilometre trip off-road leads you to a fairly ordinary scene – a small, cloudy billabong, filled with a few plants – but follow the creek away from the grassy ‘carpark’, over an easy scramble up rocks, and you’ll find a network of well-worn paths leading to a best-kept national secret. The waterhole here – a beautiful, deep, shockingly turquoise pool – is a lush little den, framed by the majestic red-black swirl of rocky cliff face and lit by sunshine as soft and light as cotton wool. Don’t bother attempting the precarious climb up the waterfall – the very shallow creek you’ll find up there is not worth the potential broken leg – but bring a piece of fruit and your camera, and when you’re lying on your back, swimming in that water, take a moment to think about how fantastic life can be.

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Quite amazingly, this waterhole is almost always empty – most guidebooks advise skipping it in favour of ‘greater’ attractions.

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A Manning Adventure From the moment you exit either of the two main towns that bookend The Gibb, mobile reception splutters and then disappears, boabs crowd the roadside like proud old men, and a subtle shift occurs in the car’s interior. Unimportant details, like what day it is, start to slip out the window, and the lines of the law – while not entirely abandoned – become somewhat… smudged. Nowhere is this clearer than on the walk to Manning Gorge, an hour-long journey along a ‘path’ through the bush, defined only by a smattering of painted rocks and strategically-placed bits of plastic. There are no council-posted signs. No boardwalks. At points it feels a little like you’re playing an obstacle course – indeed, just to access the track you need to cross a billabong, using a little wooden boat – but the journey’s worth it for the adventure alone. The gorge itself does not at first seem terribly beautiful (you’ll be getting spoilt by now), but turn right to follow the billabong upstream and you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful, deep pool that you can jump into from several ledges on the waterfall; climb the waterfall to its top and there is another pool above that. Alternatively, turn left when you arrive and you’ll find waterhole after waterhole downstream. Say hi to Daff if you see him there, too.

578 Australian Traveller | www.australiantraveller.com

Scones and teaAn English garden in the middle of the outback: why not? But the owners of Ellenbrae weren’t satisfied that they’d done enough to create an outstanding Kimberley experience with their verdant oasis: their locally-famous scones, served with jam and cream on the homestead’s balcony ($4.50 each), have made this a required pit stop along The Gibb. Hosts Jason Yates and Karen Lucas had a record month in July 2012, baking 2550 scones – “that’s 197 batches,” Karen says – but can’t answer why they’re not more well-known around Australia. “In 2011, we had a fella who did a story on us for a caravan magazine,” Jason offers, scratching his nose. Another best-kept secret.


6That rope in the background? It’s attached to a pulley system, which you’ll make use of as you pull yourself across the billabong in the provided boat. BYO biceps.

The spectacular Cockburn Ranges, which you’ll pass as you drive between Ellenbrae and El Questro. INSET: You can’t miss the turnoff for Ellenbrae’s scones and jam.

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A true wilderness parkThe previous owners of El Questro Wilderness Park, who purchased the million-acre property in 1991 for $1 per acre, were quite the visionaries – and not just because they transformed the run-down cattle station into what it is today. “See this river in front of us?” asks ranger Ben Kerley, gesturing at the grandiose panorama of Chamberlain Gorge. “The owners once water-skiied behind a helicopter down that,” he says gleefully. “The pilot lost his licence for it.”

It’s the kind of wild hijinks you could picture happening here, where a certain level of lawlessness, so often found in truly remote areas, mixes all too seductively with privilege. And of the latter, there is plenty – for though the park is home to several different kinds of accommodation, including basic camping and air-conditioned bungalows, it is El Questro’s six-star ultra-retreat that draws travellers from across the globe: The Homestead.

With an upper limit of 18 guests at any one time – media moguls, music legends and movie stars often among them – the civilised microcosm of The Homestead sits in perfect contrast to the wilderness around it; a gentle blend of silver service and the rugged outback. Indeed the scene on arrival – which could be the setting of a tropical African safari lodge, if it weren’t for the outrageously Australian scene beyond open doors – almost draws tears from our pindan-streaked faces, so lazily luxurious as it is. Ceiling fans whir overhead. Deep, wide lounges beckon. And behind it all is the glimmering rust of a Kimberley afternoon, complete with twinkling infinity pool set among extravagantly green lawn, and the spectacular show of the Chamberlain River beyond.

Over three days we explore the park’s billion-year-old gorges and drama-queen vistas, stopping only to rest fatigued limbs in our thoroughly modern Cliff Side Retreat, or laze about in a haze of champagne (and nothing else) during a private dip in the thermal waters of Zebedee Springs. It is a suitably climactic ending to a blockbuster journey. Although we are, of course, a million miles from Hollywood and its relatives, and that’s without doubt, one of the best parts of it all.

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One of the really, really special bath tubs at El Questro’s Cliff

Side Retreats. Off to the left is an outdoor shower;

all toiletries here by Aesop «




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The Gibb, your wayan easy Gibb River Road itinerary

Seeing the Gibb River RoadYou can travel the Gibb River Road several different ways – and not all of them involve driving

4 cycle it (truly)You can see The Gibb like a sane person – or you can cycle it. Despite being nearly 660 kilometres long, there are a number of operators running both bicycle and trail bike tours along the road. Remote Outback Cycle Tours has a 12-night tour that allows cyclists to choose when they want to ride. (If you get tired, you can sit back and enjoy the tour from the bus.) Departing from Broome and winding up in Darwin, highlights include Bell Gorge, Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary, Manning Gorge, El Questro Station and Lake Argyle. Alternatively you can join The Gibb Challenge, a relay cycling event for charity, which takes place annually. If peddling isn’t your thing you can also take the motorised option and explore Gibb River by trail bike with Kimberley Trail Bike Adventure Tours.• Where: All three options depart from Broome. • accommodation: Camp at various sites with Remote Outback Cycle Tours and The Gibb Challenge, or stay in a mix of bush camps and accommodation with Kimberley Trail Bike Adventure Tours. • hoW difficult is it? The road is relatively flat for the most part, but you’d be mad to try and cycle The Gibb without training. As the terrain can be bumpy and potholed in parts, motorcyclists need experience.• details: From $2310 per person with Remote Outback Cycle Tours; remoteoutbackcycletours.com.au. Rider registration for The Gibb Challenge costs $500 plus you’ll need to fundraise a minimum of $1000 for charity; thegibbchallenge.com.au. From $3300 per person to hire a bike and $2480 to take your own with Kimberley Trail Bike Adventure Tours; kimberleytrailbikeadventuretours.com.au n

1 byo bedroomAfter a really authentic Kimberley experience? You’ve got two options: hire a 4WD and camp, or hire a 4WD campervan, which is camping, the spoon-fed way. (Your car comes with everything – cutlery, kitchen stove, in-built bed and so on.) We tried the latter, with Apollo Car Hire in Broome, and it was almost too easy. • Where: Start and finish at Broome or Kununurra. (The car hire companies here require you to drive back to where you started: annoying on one hand, but a great excuse to return via the hugely picturesque Great Northern Highway on the other.)• accommodation: There are still some free bush camp sites around (such as Barnett River Gorge) but most will cost you around $12–20 per person, per night. • hoW difficult is it? The Gibb River Road itself is well maintained, so if you’re a competent driver and you know how to change a tyre, you shouldn’t have any issues. Some side roads, however, including the ‘main’ side road up to Mitchell Plateau, Kalumburu Road (not featured in this article) can be more challenging. Check road conditions at mainroads.wa.gov.au or via the 24-hour hotline on 138 138.• details: From $78 per day. apollocamper.com

3 tour it Several tours touch on the Gibb River Road, but only two companies offer regular tours devoted specifically to the experience – APT and Outback Spirit Tours. Both offer small-ish groups (20 people) in comfortable 4WD coaches and itineraries with all the highlights we’ve mentioned. • Where: Both tours start in Broome and finish in Kununurra.• hoW difficult is it? As with all tours, the biggest challenge is travelling at someone else’s pace – but that might be forgivable, when someone else has done all the organising, too!• accommodation: Both companies’ itineraries feature a combination of their own, privately-owned accommodation and ‘regular’ stays along the way. APT highlights include Broome’s Cable Beach Resort and Spa, APT’s Wilderness Lodges, Home Valley Station and Emma Gorge Resort in El Questro Wilderness Park. With Outback Spirit Tours you’ll get accommodation at their Ngauwudu Safari Camp on the Mitchell Plateau, a night at Derby’s four-star Spinifex Hotel, and stays at both the unique safari tents of Mornington Wilderness Camp, and Kununurra Country Club Hotel.• details: Both tours priced from $8795 per person; 15-day itinerary APT; aptouring.com.au; 14-day itinerary with Outback Spirit Tours; outbackspirittours.com.au

2 drive and hotel-hopHiring a 4WD from Broome or Kununurra, and staying at some of the many excellent accommodation options along the way, is a fantastic way to see The Gibb in comfort. This can, however, limit you a little in terms of daily explorations, as many of the main attractions are a good hour’s drive from the nearest accommodation, and you’ll need to factor in the walk to and from each gorge (up to an hour each way) as well. As the sun goes down quite quickly during the dry season, visiting gorges without suffering the midday heat or walking back in the dark can be something of a juggling act. On the plus side, many stations have spectacular (and lesser-known) gorges, waterholes and landscapes on site, some of which are only open to guests – so you won’t go without. • Where: See previous information at #1. • accommodation: You’ll find everything along the road – from basic bungalows at Birdwood Downs (from $81 per night), to safari tents at Home Valley Station ($150 per night) and Mornington Wilderness Camp (from $285 per person, per night). Or the world-standard luxury at El Questro’s Homestead (from $1575 for four nights twin-share in the Homestead Room – special offer). Book ahead. Head to australiasnorthwest.com for more.• hoW difficult is it? See previous information at #1. • details: $159.50 per day for an off-road 4WD for one to two days. Prices fall the longer the duration of hire. broomebroome.com.au

Manning River (4 hours), stopping for swims at easily accessible Adcock Gorge (2 hours back to Gibb River Road, 20 minutes from there) and equally accessible Galvans Gorge and its rope swing (another 30 minutes past that). Refuel at Mt Barnett Roadhouse (another 30 minutes again), then spend the afternoon swimming in Manning River (35 minutes). Stay at Manning River Campsite or Mt Barnett Roadhouse. day 7 Get up early to take the one-hour walk to Manning Gorge; spend the day here. Stay at the same place. day 8 Another early morning for the one-hour walk to nearby Barnett River Gorge for a swim (45 minutes from Mt Barnett Roadhouse), then move on to Ellenbrae for their famous scones (1 hour, 15 minutes). Stay or camp at Ellenbrae, or drive on to Home Valley Station (1.5 hours). Optional: Turn off at Kalumburu Road

to spend a few days exploring the northern part of the Kimberley near Mitchell Falls (experienced 4WDers only). day 9 Explore Ellenbrae or Home Valley Station, then head on to El Questro Wilderness Park (2 hours from Ellenbrae, 30 minutes from Home Valley), stopping to snap the truly stunning Cockburn Ranges. Camp at one of El Questro’s private riverfront sites, stay at Emma Gorge Resort, or splurge on a room at the El Questro Homestead. day 10 Explore El Questro. Must-sees include Emma Gorge and the thermal waters of Zebedee Springs. Spend another night here. day 11 Refuel at Kununurra, then begin the stunning drive back to Broome via the Great Northern Highway (13 hours in total, see map, p68), stopping for a night at Fitzroy Crossing along the way. *Note – all timings approximate, as road conditions can (and do) vary.

Do THeGIbb RIveR RoAD

WITHAustrAliAn trAveller!

Join us on a tour of the Gibb River Road in 2015!

For more information, register your interest at

travelwithus @australiantraveller.com

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barnett river Gorge

Kalumburu road

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Adcock Gorge

Galvans Gorge

Lennard river Gorge

Windjana Gorge

tunnel Creek

1 Birdwood Downs Station2 Windjana Gorge (campsite only)3 Mount Hart Homestead4 Silent Grove (campsite only)5 Bell Gorge Wilderness Lodge6 Charnley River Station7 Mornington Wilderness Camp8 Mount Barnett Roadhouse

9 Manning River (campsite only)10 Barnett River (campsite only) 11 Mount Elizabeth Station12 Drysdale River Station13 Ellenbrae Homestead14 Home Valley Station15 El Questro (including

Emma Gorge Resort)

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mornington Sanctuary

Places to stay along the way

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Great Northern Highway

Great Northern Highway

(MAp NOT TO ScAlE)

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day 1 Pick up your 4WD (broomebroome.com.au) or campervan (apollocamper.com) in Broome and stock up on food, water and alcohol. Head to Matso’s Brewery for dinner (a Broome must-do), then stay at The Mantra Frangipani – it’s great, and at a great price (mantra.com.au). day 2 Drive to Derby (3 hours). Stop at the Derby Prison Boab Tree (signposted), which tells the sad history of local indigenous people. If you don’t own a compressor, let down your tyres here (around 5psi should be enough, but check at the service station). Then double back to the Gibb River Road turnoff (5km down the road) and head to stunning Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek (1.5 hours). Camp at Windjana Gorge or head on to Mount Hart Homestead (2 hours). day 3 Drive to Bell Gorge (2 hours from Windjana, 2.5 hours from

Mount Hart). Optional: stop off at Lennard River Gorge on the way (1.5 hours from Windjana, 1 hour from Mount Hart) for the 30-minute walk to the gorge lookout. (We don’t advise you attempt to climb down and swim here, as some say you can.) Once at Bell Gorge, take the 45-minute walk to the waterhole. Spend the day here; stay at nearby Silent Grove Campsite (10 minutes) or Bell Gorge Wilderness Lodge (50 minutes). day 4 Refuel at Imintji Roadhouse (45 minutes from Silent Grove; 5 minutes from Bell Gorge Lodge). Head to Mornington Sanctuary (20 minutes past Imintji to the turnoff; 2 hours from there). Camp or stay in a safari tent and enjoy a decadent, gourmet dinner in the open-air restaurant. day 5 Spend the day enjoying Mornington, capping it off with a sunset at stunning Sir John Gorge (pictured). day 6 Leave Mornington for

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A very · 2014. 6. 10. · snacks There are no 7-Elevens here. Even if you’re staying in catered accommodation, you won’t regret having things like muesli bars and trail mix on