a TIM ATKIN MW SPECIAL REPORT Argentina 2016 ... TIM ATKIN MW SPECIAL REPORT Page 02 TIM TKIN ARGENTINA 2016 Special Report Contents Pg 05 Introduction 07 Winemakers of Argentina 17

15 19 $22 2015 Tim Atkin

Argentina 2016Special Report

by Tim Atkin MW

a TIM ATKIN MW SPECIAL REPORT

TIM ATKIN ARGENTINA 2016 Special Report

ContentsPg05 Introduction07 Winemakers of Argentina17 The 10 things you need to know about Argentina25 Map of Argentinas growing regions26 A short guide to Argentinas growing regions28 The podium29 The 2016 Argentinean top 10032 AclassificationofArgentinasbestproducers34 Anoteaboutscoringandmyclassification35 Tasting notes124 Complete scores A-Z147 Recommended restaurants in Argentina147 Further Reading

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Thepesohasbeendevalued,effectivelydoingaway with the dollar blue, which traded at 25-30%abovetheofficialrate,exchangecontrolshave been relaxed and Argentina appears to be on the verge of settling its debts, allowing it to return to capital markets after a 15 year ban. The government still needs to secure the necessary votes in Congress to repeal two laws that will allow it to pay its creditors through a $15 billion bond issue, but this appears to be a donedeal.Itwillthenbeinapositiontofinanceitsbudgetdeficit,whichwasanalarming5.8%of GDP last year, and (it hopes) be in a position toreduceinflation,thelong-termscourgeofthe Argentinean economy. Things are still problematic (the rate is around 25% and reducing itwilldependonthewagedemandsofthemajortrade unions), but they have been much worse. In 1975,lestweforget,inflationwasrunningat 1% per day.

This is not a report about politics or economics. But these two things have a direct impact on the wine industry. Outside investment has more or less dried up over the last decade thesaleofamajorityshareinAchvalFerrertothe Russian SPI Group in April 2011 was almost the only exception and an over-valued peso (at 9.5 to the dollar, compared with 14 today) was impeding exports. With the new exchange rate, imported barrels will be more expensive, but if that encourages producers to use less new oak this may be a blessing in disguise.

Now, foreign investors are looking at Argentinaoncemore,accordingtoNicols

Catena, owner of Catena Zapata and a trained economist. In the last month, he says, I have been contacted by an American and a Spanish investor, both of whom are looking to buy a winery here. Catena is a Macri fan. This is the firsttimewevehadapresidentwhoisnteithera lawyer or a general. Hes an engineer and a practical, honest person who is used to solving problems.

With the issues he has piled up on his desk, the travails of the wine industry are not at the top ofthepresidentsagenda.Butitwassignificantthat at the end of January 2016, the government announced it would be providing a subsidy of 75 million pesos to producers in the provinces of San JuanandMendoza,mostlytofinancethesaleordisposal of excess stock, said to be running at 200 million litres, to be followed by a second tranche of 75 million later in the year. The wine industry represents around 1.3% of GDP and the PRO government clearly doesnt want to see a repeat of the events of January 2015, when vineyard workers took to the streets of Mendoza to protest at the low price of grapes, falling exports, rock bottombulkwineratesandrampantinflation.

The economic situation better but still far from ideal is only one thing wineries have to worry about at the moment. The 2016 growing season has been one of the wettest on record (except in the north, where it has been incredibly dry), although a number of producers told me that the weather had improved in late February and early March, promising a warmer, drier end to the harvest. Volumes are likely to be down by as much

IntroductionCrisis, what crisis? It makes a pleasant change to be writing my 2016 report at a time of comparative optimism in Argentina. A year, never mind a week, is a long time in politics and the country has altered radically in the last 12 months. In fact, the upturn in its fortunes is even more recent than that. Mauricio Macri was elected president on November 23 and has set about righting Argentinas economic woes with impressive energy since he took office in December.


Theres a dynamism and vitality to the Argentinean wine scene that I havent seen since the 1990s.

as 25% on 2015, but this is not another 1998, widely regarded as one of the worst ever vintages in Argentina. We were less good at managing our vineyards in 1998, says Roberto de la Mota of Mendel. This has been a cooler year, with less disease pressure, particularly from botrytis, than we saw in 1998.

2016 could yet produce some very good wines, buttheharvestmaynotbefinisheduntilthemiddle of May. The higher parts of Gualtallary, for instance, have experienced degree-days that are closer to Burgundy than La Mancha. Its the sort of thing that happens once in 50 years, says Edy Del Popolo of Per Se and Dominio del Plata. In one sense, however, 2016 is part of a trend. Argentina hasnt had a hot, dry vintage since 2012. 2013, 2014, 2015 and now 2016 have all beencoolyears,withsignificantamountsofrainin the last three vintages.

Argentina, in other words, is not without its problems, even if the outlook is more positive (assuming the 2016 harvest ends well) than it has

been for a while. But I believe that the countrys wines have entered a new and exciting phase. During my three week trip to write this, my fourth annual report on Argentina, I tasted more good reds than ever, particularly from the 2012 and2013vintages.Equallysignificantly,manyof these wines are fresher, brighter and lower in alcohol than their predecessors, with less new oakandsweet,so-calledcarameloflavours.Thewhites, too, have improved beyond all recognition inthespaceoffiveyears.

Right now, theres a dynamism and vitality to the Argentinean wine scene that I havent seen since the 1990s. In fact, its even more exhilarating than it was then, thanks to the emergence of new regions, styles and winemakers andarenewedsenseofself-confidence.Nooneknows what will happen to the economy over the next 12 months, but the future of the wine industry looks extremely bright.

Tim Atkin MW


Clockwise from top left: Andrea Marchiori, Walter Bressia, Pancho Morelli, Alvaro Dvalos and Raul Dvalos, Bernardo Bossi, Gabriel Bloise, Eduardo Pulenta, Jeff Musbach

Winemakers of Argentina


Clockwise from top left: Marcos Fernndez, Gustavo Bertagna, Herv Joyaux Fabre, Osvaldo Domingo, Santiago Bugallo, Mariano di Paola, Gerardo and Andrea Michelini, Lorenzo Pasquini


Clockwise from top left: Andr Weinert, David Bonomi and Edy Del Popolo, Paul Hobbs, Sofa Pescarmona, The Pulenta family, Manu Michelini, Noemi Cinzano Marone and Hans Vinding-Diers


Clockwise from top left: Cristin Morelli, Federico Bizzotto, Francisco Tellechea, Gustavo Rearte, Daniel Pi, Mariana Paez, Fernando Maurette


Clockwise from top left: The Dvalos family, Thibault Lepoutre, Giuseppe Franceschini , Guillermo Barbier, Xavier Gran, Leo Erazu, Agustn Lanus, Hubert Weber, Martn El Gato Kaiser


Clockwise from top left: Alejandro Vigil, Javier Lo Forte, Rafael Racedo, Alejandro Pepa, Juan Carlos Rodrguez, Salvador Chavo Figueroa, Herv Birnie-Scott, Mariana Onofri, Mariano Quiroga


Clockwise from top left: Adrin Manchn, Jos-Luis Mounier, Marita Bressia, Matas Michelini, Juan-Pablo Michelini, Opi Sadler, Jos Spisso, Matas Riccitelli


Clockwise from top left: Juan Manuel Gnzalez, Walter Carrizo, Roberto de la Mota, Thibaut Delmotte, Rafa Domingo, Juan Roby, Marcelo Pelleriti, Maria and Armando Loson, Jorge Riccitelli


Clockwise from top left: Lucia Romero, Manuel Gnzalez, Marcos Etchart, Nicolas Catena, Julio Viola, Susana Balbo, Paola Pulenta, Pablo Martorell, Alejandro and Lucia Martorell, Sofa Groppo Parisi


Clockwise from top left: Tommy Hughes, Agustn Lombroni, Santiago Achaval, Alejandro Sejanovich, Sebastian Zuccardi, Pepe Galante, Alejandro Cnovas, Juan Prates


10 things you need to know about Argentina

Argentina is the fifth biggest wine-producing country in the world, with 226,388 hectares

of vineyards at the most recent official count and an annual production of 13.36 million hectolitres in 2015. Only France, Italy, Spain and the United States make more vino. Argentinas viticultural roots date back to the 16th century, but its modern wine industry is extremely vibrant and has seen dramatic changes in the last 20 years.

Although annual per capita consumption is nothing like as enthusiastic as it once was Argentineans knocked back a remarkable 90 litres in the early 1990s, compared with fewer than 30 litres today the country still drinks more than two and half times what it exports, even if much of it is pretty basic vino corriente. Wine is a much more important part of daily life in Argentina than in it is Chile, Brazil or Uruguay, or even the rest of the Southern Hemisphere for that matter. As well as a source of pride, wine is the national beverage of choice. Thats unlikely to change any time soon, however popular Fernet Branca or Quilmes beer may be among younger consumers.

This is one of the hottest, driest and most continental climates in the wine world, although it hasnt

seemed that way in rain-affected Mendoza in 2016. Most Argentinean vineyards are planted in what are essentially desert conditions and, in a normal growing season, would struggle to survive without irrigation, either from wells or the Andes. Dry farmed vineyards are rare, but not unheard of. Growing grapes in Argentina is comparatively easy (as long as you have water

and are protected by hail nets), but growing finewinegrapesisharder.That,inessence,isArgentinas challenge.

The search for cooler sites has been one of the themes of the last 20 years and has seen companies go higher, further south and, more recently, east towards the Atlantic coast, in thecaseofTrapichesCosta&Pampaproject.The Uco Valley, especially the upper parts of the Gualtallary sub-region, is the most highly publicised example of this, but Argentineans are exploring all four points of the compass in anattempttomitigatetheeffectsofheatandlong sunshine hours and produce more elegant, nuanced wines. New areas such as Calingasta, Chaarmuyo, Chapadmalal, Chubut, El Challao, Jujuy,LagoHermoso,LaPampa,Payagosta-Salta (home to the highest vineyard in the world, ColomsAlturaMximaat3,111metres)andValle de Canota are all part of this trend.

Malbec is the countrys best grape and its global calling card. The varietys dominance is sometimes

exaggerated, at least in statistical terms. Its been higher in the past a lot of old vineyards were pulled out in the government-sponsored vine pull schemes of the1980s - but today it only represents 17% of Argentinas 226,388 hectares. But when it comes to sales overseas, itsadifferentstory:Malbecaccountsfor51%of Argentinas exports and is regarded as the countrys USP.

Whats more, the Malbec that is grown in Argentinaisverydifferenttowhatyoufindinthe south-west French regions of Cahors and Bordeaux, according to scientist and economist Aldo Biondillo, who has been conducting clonal


research into the grape, partly funded by the AgenciaNacionaldePromocinCientficayTecnolgica, at his Tempus Alba winery in Mendoza since 2000. The DNA of Argentinean Malbeciscompletelydifferent,hesays.

Theres no doubt that Malbec is a versatile grape,capableofproducingverydifferentstylesof wine, depending on where it is grown and how it is made. We are starting to see clear variations inaroma,structureandflavourbetweenMalbecsgrowninAgrelo,ElCepillo,Gualtallary,LujndeCuyo,Maip,ParajeAltamira,thePedernalValley, Ro Negro, Salta, San Pablo, Vista Flores and Vistalba. Decisions in the vineyard and the winery clearly have an impact on style, but each of these places seems to give Malbec an individual stamp.

Biondilloisworkingwith14differentwineriesinhisCirculoproject,toplantthesamethree clones of Malbec (whittled down from 16) ineightdifferentpartsofthecountry.Iagreethatweneedtosellourterroirs,butfirstweneedto know what genetic material we are working with, so that we are comparing apples with apples, and not with pears or oranges. Within a decade, Biondillo plans to have developed a scientificallybasedsensorymapofMalbec.

This is all part of the challenge to make even more of Argentinas signature grape. As Santiago AchvalofAchvalFerrerandMaterViniputsit:The next big thing after Malbec is more Malbec, butfromdifferentsitesandoldergeologies.Thats why our current search has taken us to places like the Valle de Canota and El Challao.

The list of the countrys best Malbec producers is long and getting longer by the vintage. My favourites, all of whom have one or more wines in my Top 100 wines of the year, include:AchavalFerrer,AltosLasHormigas,Bodega Aleanna, Bodega Cuarto Dominio, Catena, Chakana, Colom, De Angeles, Dominio del Plata, Doa Paula, Entonado, Luca, Mendel, Noema, Norton, Per Se, Pulenta Estate, Puramun, Riccitelli Wines, Salentein, Terrazas de los Andes, Tintonegro, Trapiche, Via Cobos, Weinert and Zuccardi.

ItsalsosignificantthatMalbec,regardedmostly as a blending grape in France, works well with other varieties, most notably Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, in Argentina, too. The examples are numerous, but top cuves

withasignificantpercentageofMalbecincludeAndeluna Pasionado Cuatro Cepas, Atamisque Assemblage,BodegaTacuilViasdeDvalos,Bodega Vistalba Corte A, Buscado Vivo o MuerteLaVerdad,Caro,CatenaZapataNicols,Cheval des Andes, De Angeles Via 1924 Single Vineyard Gran Corte, Fabre Montmayou Grand Vin, Finca Flichman Dedicado, Mendel Unus, Norton Gernot Langes, Per Se Francesca, Per Se La Craie, Pulenta Estate Gran Corte, Pyros Special Blend, Riglos Gran Corte, Trapiche Iscay, Tres 14 Imperfecto, Weinert Cavas de Weinert Gran Vino, Zorzal Field Blend and Zuccardi Zeta.

Other red grapes have enormous potential, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,

Bonarda and Pinot Noir. Famous rock bands are often faced with a conundrum when theyre playinglive:atwhatpointdotheydipintotheirback catalogue and play their greatest hits? They may want to showcase new material, but the crowd is impatient to hear something they can sing along to.

People like familiarity. Its one of the reasons brands are so successful, and not only in music. But its also dangerous to stick with the tried and tested. Innovation and an element of surprise are vital in most walks of life. Just as a shark needs to keep moving to stay alive, so artists need to be creative.

Argentina faces a similar dilemma with Malbec. Im not suggesting that the countrys best variety is predictable or has run out of gas (see above). Indeed, you could argue that Malbec is more exciting today than it has ever been, with the development of new sub-regions and an increasing focus on terroir. But Argentina is sometimes regarded as a producer of Malbec and nothing else.

One of the things that surprises people about Argentinean wine is its diversity. How many other New World countries grow Aglianico, Alicante Bouschet, Ancellotta, Barbera, Bonarda, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Caladoc, Carignan, Dolcetto, Grenache, Marselan, Merlot, Mourvdre, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tannat and Tempranillo, as well as Malbec?

Which grapes have most potential? Right now, the one that gets the most attention is Cabernet Franc. Theres no denying that the


variety is capable of special things in Argentina, particularly in Mendoza. If you havent tried Andelunas Pasionado, Atamisques Serbal, Bodega Aleannas Single Vineyard Grand Enemigo, Pulenta Estates Gran Cabernet Franc, Salenteins Numina or Zorzals Eggo Franco, you are missing out on bottlings of brilliant varietal expressions of this wonderful grape.

Cabernet Franc delivers as a blending component, too, as we know from Bordeaux. Its partnership with Malbec as sensual as the best tango is particularly special. Just get hold of a bottle of Bodega Tehos Zaha Malbec from the Toko Vineyard, Dominio del Platas Benmarco Expresivo, Per Se La Craie, Salenteins Gran Vu or Tres 14 Imperfecto. But Cabernet Franc works well with one or more of the other red Bordeaux varieties, too. Good examples include, Achaval Ferrers Quimera, Luigi Boscas Finca Los Nobles Field Blend, Nortons Gernot Langes, Mendels Red Blend and Pulenta Estates Gran Corte.

What Cabernet Franc doesnt have going for it is abundance. A mere 750 hectares, of which only 57 hectares are planted in what is arguably its best terroir in Gualtallary, is not going to keep the world supplied for long. When you compare plantings with those of Cabernet Sauvignon (15,859 hectares) and Syrah (13,029,), it starts tolookinsignificant.Syrahisnotyetasexcitingas it should be in Argentina although the 2013 Finca Las Moras Gran Syrah from San Juan is the most promising Ive had yet but Cabernet Sauvignon is well suited to the countrys range of micro-climates and theres more of it.

Paul Hobbs of Via Cobos, who knows a thing or two about the variety from California, thinks that its under-rated in Argentina. This may be true, but Cabernet Sauvignon is increasingly bottled as a varietal wine. A list of thebestproducerswouldincludeAchvalFerrer,Andeluna, Bodega Tacuil, Bressia, Casarena, De Angeles, Dominio del Plata, El Esteco, El Porvenir de Cafayate, Fabre Montmayou, Finca Decero, Finca La Anita, Kaikn, La Mascota, Lagarde, Mendel, Navarro Correas, Norton, Piedra Negra, Pulenta Estate, Riglos, Salentein, SonVida, Terrazas de los Andes and Via Cobos. The grape is also the backbone of high-end wines suchasBressiaProfundo,CatenaZapataNicols,Riglos Gran Corte and Cheval des Andes.

The one grape that almost no one talks about

is Bonarda, and yet its the second most planted red grape in Argentina, with 19,214 hectares. Even on the domestic market, the varietys image is not particularly glamorous. Over half of those plantings are in the scorching, desert-like conditions of eastern Mendoza, grown on hightrellisescalledparralesandoftenfloodirrigated. Historically, Bonarda was grown for its yield and disease-resistance, and still is to a large extent, as well as its ability to add acidity to Malbec.

Some people mistake the grape for the Bonarda (Croatina) grown in Oltrep Pavese or Lombardy (Bonarda Piemontese and Uva Rara). But it turns out that the variety is not Italian, but French. According to ampelographers, Bonarda is none other than Corbeau, also known as Charbono in California. Now that Bonardas identity is clearer, perhaps its stock will rise. Look out for the wines from Altos Las Hormigas, Bodega Aleanna, Bodega Iaccarini, Cara Sur, Chakana, Dante Robino, Morelli Vino de Cava and Zuccardi.

Pinot Noir needs no such help with its identity, but its fair to say that the variety is not normally associated with Argentina. For some time, Chacra in Ro Negro has been the coruscating exception to the fairly dull fare on offer.Yetonmylastthreevisitstothecountry,Ive been increasingly impressed by a growing number of wines from Gualtallary, Neuqun, San Pablo, Ro Negro. I even had a good one from La Consulta this year. Apart from Chacra, noteworthy Pinots are made by Altocedro, Familia Schroeder, Gen di Alma, Luca, Manos Negras and Salentein.

Argentinas white wines have undergone a transformation. If you were to ask most people which

Latin American country produces the continents best Chardonnays, Rieslings and Sauvignon Blanc,theywouldnominateChile,whichbenefitsfromthecoolinginfluenceofthePacificOcean,but Argentina is raising its game by the vintage, producing wines that can be every bit as good. Whats more, it makes a more diverse range of white wines than its Andean neighbour, using an extensive list of grape varieties that includes Albario, Chenin Blanc, Fiano, Gewrztraminer, Marsanne, Muscat, Palomino, Petit Manseng,


Pinot Gris, Roussanne, Sauvignon Gris, Semillon, Sylvaner, Tocai Friulano, Torronts, Verdicchio and Viognier, as well as the less exquisite delights of Pedro Gimnez and Sultanina Blanca.

Argentinas most distinctive white grape is Torronts, or rather a range of Torronts, since this highly perfumed variety, which resulted from a natural crossing of Muscat of Alexandria andCriollaChica,hasatleastthreemajorclones(Riojano,MendocinoandSanJuanino).Thereceived wisdom is that the best examples come from the high altitude vineyards of Salta (where thesuperiorRiojanocloneispredominant).Outstanding wines are certainly made there by the likes of Alta Vista, Colom, El Esteco and El PorvenirdeCafayate,butyourejustaslikelytofindimpressiveTorrontsinMendoza,especiallyin the Uco Valley, where Passionate Wine and Dominio del Plata both make distinctive styles, thefirstwithskincontact,thesecondwithbarrelfermentation.

Plantings of Torronts dwarf those of other premium white grapes. The three clones account for 10,632 of Argentinas 226, 338 hectares under vine. But Chardonnay (6,352 hectares) is growing in importance and quality. Not so long ago, Argentinean Chardonnay looked to California rather than Burgundy for its inspiration. The results were drinkable, but rarely exciting. The pioneering work or Catena in the higher reaches of the Uco Valley (Gualtallary) has changed all that. The limestone soils of Catenas Adrianna Vineyard are responsible for two of the countrys (and South Americas) bestChardonnays:WhiteStonesandWhiteBones. Further Uco Valley producers to look out for are Andeluna, Atamisque, Chakana, Doa Paula, Luca, Navarro Correas, Norton, Revolver, Riccitelli Wines, Rutini, Salentein Terrazas de los Andes, Trapiche and Zuccardi, while Bodega del Ro Elorza (Ro Negro), El Porvenir de Cafayate (Cafayate) and Pulenta Estate (Agrelo) make very good Chardonnays in other regions.

If great Chardonnay was rare in Argentina even a decade ago, top Sauvignon Blanc was almost an oxymoron. The countrys dry, continental climate was considered too hot to produce wines with varietal typicity. One person has transformed the image of Sauvignon Blanc inArgentina:MatasMichelini,sometimes

described as green Michelini because of his fondness for earlier-picked, lower alcohol wines. First at Doa Paula, then at Finca Sophenia and now at Passionate Wine and Zorzal (where he works with his brothers, Juan Pablo and Gerardo), Michelini has made a series of brilliant Sauvignon Blancs. Look out in particular for the Zorzal Eggo Blanc de Cal.

Michelini isnt the only excellent Sauvignon Blanc producer, mind you. Doa Paula and Finca Sophenia are still right up there in terms ofquality,asisColom,whoseAlturaMximaSauvignon Blanc comes from the highest vineyard in the world, Bodega Tacuil, also in Salta, and O. Fournier, whose Alfa Crux is made in a Graves-like style. Id also recommend the barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blancs from La Giostra del Vino, made by the Italian Giuseppe Franceschini.

Riesling is another unlikely success story in Argentina. Theres not a whole lot of it in the ground (111 hectares to be precise), but whats planted has real potential, especially in Gualtallary (Doa Paula), Las Compuertas (Luigi Bosca) and Chapadmalal (Trapiches Costa & Pampa), mostly made in a dry style.

The last member of this trio is the most recent, as well as the most exciting site for Riesling and other aromatic varieties such as Albario and Gewrztraminer. Its an unirrigatedestatesituatedfivekilometresfromthe Atlantic on what was previously a diary farm. Even the Uruguayans dont grow grapes this close to the ocean, but the early indications are that Trapiche is on to a winner.

And what of Argentinas other whites? Well, there are a handful of decent Viogniers (Alamos, DiamAndes, Escorihuela Gascn and Lagarde), a Gewrztraminer or two (Rutini and Mar & Pampa) and at least one very good Pinot Gris (Piedra Negra), but the variety with the greatestpromiseisSemillon,justasitisinSouthAfrica. Plantings are reasonably sizeable at 799 hectares, and Marcelo Miras, Passionate Wine, Riccitelli Wines and especially Mendel make exciting interpretations of the grape.

White blends are under-represented in Argentina, especially at the top end. Producers seemwarytostepoutofwell-definedstylisticvarietal boxes, which is a shame. But this is changing. A handful of wineries are combining


varietiestogoodeffect,mostnotablyBlanchardy Lurton, Bodega Underground, Bressia, Dominio del Plata, La Giostra del Vino, Finca Agostino, Morelli Vino de Cava, Mythic Estate, Monofri Wines, Passionate Wine and Piedra Negra.

The Uco Valley has established itself as one of the New Worlds

greatest wine regions. If youd visited in the early 1990s, the idea that this isolated corner of Mendoza province would one day be regarded asthesourceofthemajorityofArgentinasbestreds would have been fanciful. Plantings had dwindled to a nadir of only 6,000 hectares as growers, incentivised by government vine pull schemes, uprooted vineyards and replaced them with fruit and veg. In the space of a decade, the town of La Consulta, the location of many of the Ucos oldest plantings, lost 80% of its vines.

Today, the valley today is almost unrecognisable. The Andes are still there, providing one of the wine worlds most dramatic backdrops, but almost everything else has changed. There are more vineyards (plantings have more than quadrupled to 27,600 hectares), over 100 brands and 20 wineries. The Uco has also become a tourist and lifestyle destination, completewithfourrealestateprojectsanditsowngolf course. It has gone from backwater to boom town, attracting investors from sources as diverse as France, Russia, Spain and the United States.

Whats even more remarkable is the wine quality that is emerging from the Uco, although thepotentialhasalwaysbeenthere.Thefirstvineyards were planted as long ago as the 1920s by Italian and Spanish immigrants and, in some cases, are still producing impressive wines. The majorArgentineanwineriesvaluedthefruittheyproduced for its colour, perfume and acidity, but very few of the resulting wines were stand-alone bottlings.

Although generally regarded as a single homogenous region, the Uco is surprisingly diverse. It is only 43 miles in length and 25 in width, yet the valleys vineyards vary considerably. The valley is bounded on four sides - by desert in the south, the Andes in the west, by gorges and dry riverbeds in the east and by a series of hills, or cerillos to the north adding to its sense of isolation.

At its lowest point, the Uco is 1,000 metres in altitude; at its highest (at least as far as viticulture in concerned) around 1,600 metres. The further north you go, the higher the vineyards and the cooler the resulting temperatures. Nonetheless, this is a region where dry farming is very rare indeed. Without waterfromwellsortheTunuynorLasTunasrivers, vines would struggle to survive, such is the intensity of the sunlight. Diurnal variation (up to 20C in summer and 18C in winter) helps to mitigate the dry heat (and preserve acidity in the grapes) but this is still an extreme region.

Not so long ago, the main focus in the Uco was on altitude and, to a lesser degree, aspect. But now its on soil type, water holding capacity and drainage. This growing interest in terroirisreflectedinthenumberofsoilpits(orcalicatas) that are regularly dug all over the region,aswellasintherecentcreationofParajeAltamira,thecountrysfirstGI(GeographicalIndication), based on a rigorous study by Professor Ricardo Prez Valenzuela.

The valley is divided into three sub-regions, following political and geographical boundaries ratherthandifferencesinterroir.Fromnorthtosouth,theseareTupungato,TunuynandSan Carlos. Very few wineries use these terms on their labels these days. They are far more likely to talk about smaller viticultural zones within the Uco, such as Chacayes, El Cepillo, Gualtallary,LaConsulta,LosArboles,ParajeAltamira, San Pablo and Vista Flores.

Gualtallary is the most recently developed of these, and yet its arguably the one with the most potential, having the both the highest altitudes and the greatest concentration of limestone. Its equally well suited to whites as the Chardonnays from Catena and Luca, the Sauvignon Blancs from Zorzal and Passionate Wine and the Riesling from Doa Paula have demonstrated as it is to reds, especially Malbec and Cabernet Franc, but also Pinot Noir. Additional producers to look out for are Altos Las Hormigas, Bodega Aleanna, Gen de Alma, Finca Ambrosa, Navarro Correas, Per Se, Revolver, Riglos, Tres 14, Trapiche, and Zuccardi.

But the Uco isnt only about Gualtallary. ParajeAltamira,asthatGIdesignationmakesclear, is making many of the Ucos best reds at


themoment,includingZuccardisPiedraInfinitaand Aluvional, Mendels Finca Remota, Altos Las Hormigas Appellation Altamira Malbec, Bodega Teho Zaha Malbec from the Toko Vineyard and AchvalFerrersFincaAltamira,andisarguablythe valleys equivalent of a Grand Cru. Add the wines from La Consulta, where the vines tend to be older, and a handful from Vista Flores and Los Arboles and you have a valley with at least fivedistinct,high-qualitysub-zones.

Most exciting of all is that the best is yet to come. The average age of the Ucos vineyards is young the result of that vine pull as well as the recent boom in plantings and some of the finestterroirsmaystillbeundiscovered.Butthats in the future. What the valley is producing rightnowhasradicallychangedtheprofileofArgentinean wine.

Theres life beyond Mendoza. Its hard to think of another country where a single region dominates the wine

industry the way Mendoza does in Argentina. Buenos Aires may be the nations political, economic and artistic hub, but Mendoza is its undisputed wine capital, with the wineries, the vineyards and the research institutions to prove it.Aquickglanceatthestatisticsconfirmsthis.Out of 226,388 hectares under vine, 160,983 are inMendoza,equivalentto71%.NotevenRioja,which bestrides the Spanish wine scene, can match it.

Mendozas vineyards are far from uniform. Therearesignificantdifferencesbetweenthesub-zonesofLujndeCuyo(Perdriel,Agreloand Ugarteche), the traditional heart of the Argentinean wine business, let alone the scorchingflatlandsofeasternMendozaandthecooler,higher,Andean-influencedUcoValley,whose northern end in particular is producing some of the most elegant whites and reds in the country. And yet there is a very real sense in which Mendoza, to many consumers, is Argentinean wine.

Thats only part of the picture, however. The other 29% of this large varied winemaking country adds welcome complexity to the tableau. The latitude of Argentinas vineyards stretches from 22 to 42 latitude, or to put it another way, fromJujuyinthenorthtoChubutinthesouth,aspan that is almost as long as Chiles. Argentinas

wine regions are often divided, geographically rather than stylistically it must be said, into threegroups:thenorthwest(Salta,CatamarcaandLaRioja),Cuyo(MendozaandSanJuan)and Patagonia (Neuqun and Ro Negro). This is a crude, but still useful, way of understanding the country.

Could any of these areas challenge Mendozas supremacyinthecomingdecades?Definitelynot in terms of quantity, but there are signs that the quality of what is emerging from some of these new (or recently rediscovered) areas could match some of the best wines in Mendoza. Four ofthemareparticularlypromising:Calingasta,Chapadmalal, Payogasta-Salta and the Pedernal Valley, each of which has already produced some excellent wines.

Calingasta is an old vine-growing region in one sense. Some of the vines in Barreal, its most interesting sub-region, were planted in the 1920s, grown at 1,500 metres of altitude on pergola trellising and located even closer to the Andes than the Uco Valley on the western side oftheprecordillera(foothills)ofthismajesticmountain range. Its a really old area, says SebastinZuccardi,whoisoneofthepartnersinan exciting new venture called Cara Sur, making wines from Bonarda, Criolla and Moscatel Tinto. Historically, the grapes were used to make cheap wines, but the potential is huge here.

If Calingasta is a traditional region, Chapadmalal is all about the shock of the new. There were no vineyards planted here until Trapiche converted an old cattle farm situated a few miles from the Atlantic to the south of Buenos Aires. They started with 10 hectares of Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewrztraminer and have now added another 15 hectares, extending the line up of grapes toincludeAlbario,afirstforArgentina.Thevineyards are dry farmed (not surprising giving the comparatively wet climate) and after six years in the ground are producing some of the countrysmostrefinedwhitewinesundertheexpert eye of chief winemaker, Daniel Pi.

Im also increasingly impressed by the wines emerging from the Pedernal Valley in San Juan, a high, windy, isolated spot with altitudes that vary between 1,250 and 1,500 metres. ConsiderablycoolerthanthemajorityofSanJuans vineyards, with silex and limestone soils,


it has enormous potential. There are only 800 hectares planted here, most of them owned by Las Moras, Pyros and growers who sell their wines to other wineries, but there are surely more to come.

Every bit as exciting is Coloms biodynamicallyfarmedAlturaMximavineyardinPayogasta-Salta:25hectaresofMalbec,PinotNoir and Sauvignon Blanc planted at a light-headed 3,111 metres above sea level, making it the highest vineyard in the world. Growing grapes in such an isolated spot, two and half hours drive from the main Colom winery (which is pretty secluded itself), is extremely tricky, with no sunlight until 10 am because of shadows from the surrounding peaks.

This quartet of regions has added considerably to the diversity of Argentinas wine scene. The exciting thing is that I could have chosen another half a dozen up- and-coming sites. And with more adventurous winemakers constantly searching for new and interesting locations, there are surely plenty more to be discovered. Or rediscovered.

Mendoza will always be the centre of the Argentinean wine industry, but as the emphasis shifts from technique to terroir as evidenced by the number of soil pits or calicatas that litter the countrys vineyards so Argentina will continue to experiment and explore new areas. I cant wait to taste the results.

Young winemakers are having a growing impact. It may be a sign that Im getting old, but the average age

of the countrys oenologists seems to be falling. The extreme example is Manuel Michelini, son of winemakers Gerardo and Andrea Michelini and the man behind Plop!, who is all of 20, but there aremorerecentlyqualifiedpeopleworkingintheindustry that any time in the last 25 years, a sure sign that people see a future in wine once more.

Ive probably missed a few of the leading names, but look out for the wines from Lucas Amoretti (Entonado), Agostina Astegiano (Avarizza), German Berra (Finca Flichman), Gabriel Bloise (Chakana), Agustn Lombroni (Bodega del Ro Elorza), Santiago Mayorga (Cadus),RaulDvalos(BodegaTacuil),LeoErazu(AltosLasHormigas),MarcosFernndez(Doa Paula), Fernando Gabriel (El Relator),

Agustn Lanus (Altos Terruos), Mario Malatto (Filus), Juan Pablo Michelini (Zorzal and 2km), Cristian Moor and Teresita Barrio (Moor-Barrio), Karim Mussi (Altocedro), Mariana Onofri (Onofri Wines), Lorenzo Pasquini (ChevaldesAndes),MatisPrieto(EntreVero),Mariano Quiroga (El Porvenir de Cafayate), Gaspar Rastrilla (Casa de Uco), Gustavo Rearte (AchvalFerrer),MatasRiccitelli(RiccitelliWines)andSebastinZuccardi(Zuccardi).Thefuture of Argentinean wine is in excellent hands.

Argentina is increasingly focused on expressing its vineyards - and its vintages. Its hard to wander into a

vineyard these days without stumbling on a soil pit, or calicata, dug to show what lies beneath the surface in the so-called root zone. Even ten years ago, these were very rare in Argentina, but no one plants a vineyard these days without thinking about soils and geology. The work of viticulturists such as Pedro Marchevsky (Humberto Canale), Martn Kaiser (Doa Paula), Edy del Popolo (Dominio del Plata and Per Se), AlejandroSejanovich(Casarena,Tintonegro,Manos Negras and Bodega Teho), Luis Reginato (Catena and Chaman) and the Chilean Pedro Parra (Chakana and Altos Las Hormigas) has been vital in this respect.

Not so long ago, the main focus was on altitude that desire to temper heat again but now it is on soil type, water holding capacity and drainage. The greater understanding of the influenceofcalciumcarbonateandlimestoneinwineflavour(althoughthisisacontroversialsubject,assomearguethatbothhavenotaste)andstructurehasbeenparticularlybeneficialtoArgentina, bringing what I identify as a soil-derived freshness to many of the top wines, especially from Alta Mira and Gualtallary. There are almost certainly great vineyard locations that have not yet been discovered in Argentina, but Argentineans are making more of what they have than ever thanks to better viticulture.

Argentina doesnt have an appellation system. Or, if it does, this tends to be based on political or geographical boundaries rather than soil types. This is further complicated by the fact that some would-be appellations Cafayate, Perdriel and Gualtallary are registered as brandnames.ButtheestablishmentofParaje


Altamira as a GI (Geographical Indication) three years ago as, based on the work of the academic Professor Ricardo Prez Valenzuela andarigorousstudyofsoiltypes,isafirststeptowards something more meaningful. Could Argentina develop a Burgundian-style system of communes and recognised vineyard sites? Fornow,itssomewayoff,butitsatantalisingprospect.

One important feature of vineyard expression, as opposed to the desire to correct and manipulate wines in the cellar, is vintage variation. Its tricky to generalise about such a large wine country, but vintage summaries still have a degree of validity. What we can say is that 2013, 2014, 2015 and the on-going and very late 2016 harvests have been cooler than normal. The temptation is to regard these as inferior to hotter recent years like 2012, but that is not necessarily so. 2015 was certainly tricky, and 2016 is proving no less so, but 2013 and 2014 in particular have produced some outstanding wines with appealing freshness and balance.

We really love cool vintages, says Edy Del Popolo of Per Se and Dominio del Plata, because theyprovidebetterprecision:morefrank,pureand delineated wines with more authenticity and natural acidity and less alcohol. To make profound wines, the sites are key. Expressing thedifferentvintagesispartofthat.DelPopolo

argues that Argentina generally swings between warmanddryvintages(LaNia-affected)andcoolandwetones(ElNio-affected).Theformerwere 1996, 1997, 1999, 2000, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006 and 2012, while the latter include 1998, 2001, 2005, 2007, 2008, 2010, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015 and now 2016. In other words, the last hot vintage was in 2012.

The economy is finally getting back on track. A year ago in these pages I argued that Argentina needed

better and less corrupt politicians to run its financesandinstitutions.Ialsosuggestedthat Mauricio Macri, then the mayor Buenos Aires but considered an outside bet for the presidency, sounded like a promising and competent potential successor to Cristina FernndezdeKirchner.Well,ithappenedonNovember 23rd last year. Its too early to say for certain whether Macris victory marks what the Financial Times called the beginning of a new era for Argentina, but that does seem to be the case. Thanks to the devaluation of the peso necessary and brave most wineries are looking tothefuturewithrenewedconfidence.Theindustry needs outside investment, dollars and a stable economic base. And after a decade in the doldrums,thingsarefinallylookingup.


Map of Argentinasgrowing regions


A short guide to Argentinas growing regionsArgentinas vineyards stretch from 22 to 42 latitude. Most are planted within sight of the Andes, although altitudes vary considerably, from250mtojustover3,100m.Herearethemost important details about each of the wine regions. Grape varieties of particular interest are highlighted in bold.

CatamarcaVineyardarea:2,651hectaresMainvarieties:CabernetSauvignon,Malbec,Syrah, TorrontsInanutshell:Isolated,mountainousandgenerallyless well developed, wine-wise than neighbouring Salta. The centre of the wine industry is the Fiambala Valley, but this is one Argentinas least well-visited regions. Recent plantings in the Santa Maria district by Michel Torino are promising.

La PampaVineyardarea:216hectaresMainvarieties:Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, ViognierInanutshell:Mostlyknownfortheproductionof a single winery (Bodega del Desierto), this is a new, isolated vineyard area that has been making wine since 2004. The initial results are promising, made with help from American guru, Paul Hobbs.

La RiojaVineyardarea:7,455hectaresMainvarieties:Bonarda,CabernetSauvignon,Chardonnay, Malbec, Syrah, Tannat, TorrontsInanutshell:ThesiteofArgentinasfirstvineyards.Some good wines here the Fairtrade and organic projectsareparticularlyinterestingwhiletheLaRiojanaco-operativeisoneofthecountrysbest.An area with as yet unrealised potential, although the wines from Valle de la Puerta are worth looking out for, as are those from Chaarmuyo.

MendozaVineyardarea:160,983hectares(includingSanRafael and the Uco Valley)Mainvarieties:Bonarda, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Tempranillo, Tocai Friulano, Torronts, Semillon, ViognierInanutshell:ThehuboftheArgentineanwineindustry. A large and varied area that produces most of the countrys best wines. Maip, East Mendoza and San Rafael tend to produce cheaper stylesthanthebestsub-regions:traditionalLujndeCuyo(whichincludesAgrelo,Perdriel,Lunlunta, Ugarteche and Vistalba) and the cooler, higher altitude Uco Valley (see separate entry).


NeuqunVineyardarea:1,741hectaresMainvarieties:Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, SemillonInanutshell:Comparativelynew,low-lying(for Argentina) area created thanks to a large irrigation dam a decade or so ago. Quality is good rather than spectacular, as this is quite a warm area. But the wines are improving with every year, as the vines get older. The red, iron-rich soils of Aelo are very promising, especially for Pinot Noir of all things.

Ro NegroVineyardarea:1,674hectaresMainvarieties:Chardonnay,Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Ugni BlancInanutshell:Theoldestvine-growingregioninPatagonia and the source of most of its best wines, with greater freshness and longevity than those of Neuqun to the west. Marked diurnal temperature swings and old vines make this an area to watch for everything from Pinot Noir to Malbec, via Merlot and Riesling.

SaltaVineyardarea:3,051hectaresMainvarieties:Bonarda,Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Tannat, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, TorrontsInanutshell:Containsthehighestvineyardsin the world (Altra Maxima is at 3,111 metres),

framed by a dry, cactus-strewn desert and spectacular scenery. Some increasingly good red blends here, as well as varietal Malbecs and Tannats. Still best known for its Torronts Riojano,butplantingsarenowsharedequallybetween reds and white. Increasingly impressive.

San JuanVineyardarea:47,926hectaresMainvarieties:Bonarda, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Moscatel, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Torronts, Ugni Blanc, ViognierInanutshell:Alarge,mostlyhotareathatissecond only to Mendoza in size. Produces a lot ofbasic,quaffingwine,muchofdestinedfordomestic consumption, but more recent plantings in the higher, cooler Pedernal and Calingasta Valleys are spectacularly good. Makes some of Argentinas best Syrahs.

TucumnVineyardarea:94hectaresMainvarieties:Chardonnay,CabernetSauvignon,Malbec, Tannat, Torronts, SyrahInanutshell:BestknownforitsshareoftheCalchaqu Valley (with neighbouring Catamarca and Salta). Plantings are comparatively small and are mostly located in the sparsely populated Taf del Valle department. High altitude viticulture (starting at 1,800m) is the theme here in a region that has real promise.

Uco ValleyVineyardarea:27,600hectaresMainvarieties:Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, TempranilloInanutshell:.Currentlythemostexcitingregionin Argentina, thanks to a combination of foreign investment, high altitudes, the proximity of the Andes, old vines (especially in La Consulta) and new plantings in Gualtallary. The potential of Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Malbec (particularly if they are grown on limestone) is enormous, especially as some of the new vineyards mature. Look out for sub-regional winesfromrecentlydelimitedParajeAltamira, as well as Chacayes, Gualtallary, La Consulta, San Pablo and Vista Flores


The podiumWinemaker of the Year SebastinZuccardi

Young Winemaker of the Year Matas Riccitelli

Winemaking Legend Pepe Galante

Red Wine of the Year 2013ZuccardiFincaCanalUco,ParajeAltamira

White Wine of the Year 2013 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay, Uco Valley

Sparkling Wine of the Year 2006 Cruzat Gran Millsime, Mendoza

Red Wine Discovery of the Year 2013 Buscado Vivo o Muerte La Verdad, Gualtallary

White Wine Discovery of the Year 2014 Blanchard y Lurton, Uco Valley


The 2016 Argentinean top 100

2013 Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec, Uco Valley 2013 Achaval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista Malbec, Perdriel 2013 Achaval Ferrer Temporis Malbec, Mendoza 2014 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Appellation Piedras, Gualtallary 2014AltosLasHormigasMalbecAppellation,ParajeAltamira2013 Bodega Aleanna El Enemigo Malbec, Mendoza 2014 Bodega Cuarto Dominio Chento Single Lot Malbec, Mendoza 2013 Casa de Uco Malbec, Vista Flores2013 Catena Fortuna Terrae Malbec, Uco Valley 2013 Catena Mundus Bacillus Terrae Malbec, Uco Valley 2014ChakanaAyniMalbec,ParajeAltamira2013ColomAlturaMximaMalbec,Salta2013 Colom Autntico Malbec, Salta 2013 De Angeles Via 1924 Single Vineyard Gran Malbec, Vistalba 2013DominiodelPlataSusanaBalboLimitedEditionMalbec,ParajeAltamira2012 Doa Paula Alluvia Parcel Malbec Bush Vines, Gualtallary 2012 Doa Paula Seleccin de Bodega Malbec, Mendoza 2012EntonadoMalbec,LujndeCuyo2013 Luca Nico by Luca High G Lot Malbec, Gualtallary 2013MendelFincaRemotaMalbec,ParajeAltamira2013 Noema Malbec, Ro Negro 2012 Norton Lote A112 Malbec, Agrelo 2014 Per Se Volare del Camino Malbec, Gualtallary 2013 Pulenta Estate Single Vineyard Malbec, Gualtallary2013 Puramun Malbec Reserva, Mendoza 2014 Riccitelli Wines Repblica del Malbec, Vistalba2014 Salentein, Single Vineyard Malbec Plot No. 21, Uco Valley 2011 Terrazas de los Andes Single Parcel Los Castaoas Malbec, Las Compuertas2013TintonegroFincaLaEscuelaMalbec,ParajeAltamira2013TintonegroLaEscuelaVineyardLaPiedraMalbec,ParajeAltamira2013 Tintonegro 1955 Vineyard Malbec, La Consulta 2012 Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec Cristina y Bibiana Coletto, Tupungato 2012 Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec Finca Ambrosa, Gualtallary 2012 Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec Finca Orellana de Escobar, La Consulta 2013 Via Cobos Malbec, Perdriel 1994WeinertEstrellaMalbec,LujndeCuyo2013ZuccardiAluvionalMalbec,ParajeAltamira2013 Zuccardi Aluvional Malbec, La Consulta 2013 Zuccardi Aluvional Malbec, Gualtallary 2015ZuccardiConcretoMalbec,ParajeAltamira2013ZuccardiFincaCanalUco,ParajeAltamira2013ZuccardiFincaPiedraInfinita,ParajeAltamira

Best

MALBECS

2012 Achaval Ferrer Quimera2011 Andeluna Pasionado Cuatro Cepas2011 Bodega Teho El Corte, Toko Vineyard2010BressiaConjuro20011CatenaZapataNicols2011 Cheval des Andes2012 De Angeles Via 1924 Single Vineyard Gran Corte2011 Fabre Montmayou Grand Vin2013 Per Se La Craie2011 Pulenta Estate Gran Corte2012 Riglos Gran Corte2012 tres 14 Imperfecto

RED BLENDS

A personal selection of the countrys best wines


2013 Andeluna Pasionado Cuatro Cepas, Tupungato 2011 Atamisque Assemblage, Uco Valley2015BodegaTacuilViasdeDvalos,Molinos2013 Bodega Vistalba Corte A, Vistalba2013 Buscado Vivo o Muerte La Verdad, Gualtallary2012 Casa Bianchi Enzo Bianchi, San Rafael2013 Caro, Mendoza 2011CatenaZapataNicols,Mendoza2013 Cheval des Andes, Mendoza 2013 De Angeles Via 1924 Single Vineyard Gran Corte, Vistalba 2012 Fabre Montmayou Grand Vin, Mendoza 2013 Finca Flichman Dedicado, Tupungato 2013 Mendel Unus, Mendoza2010 Norton Gernot Langes, Mendoza 2014 Per Se Francesca, Gualtallary2014 Per Se La Craie, Gualtallary 2012 Pulenta Estate Gran Corte, Mendoza 2012 Pyros Special Blend, Pedernal2013 Riglos Gran Corte, Tupungato 2011 Trapiche Iscay, Mendoza 2013 Trapiche Iscay Syrah/Viognier, Uco Valley 2013 Tres 14 Imperfecto, Gualtallary 1983WeinertCavasdeWeinertGranVino,LujndeCuyo2013 Zorzal Field Blend, Gualtallary 2012 Zuccardi Zeta, Uco Valley

2014 Altocedro Pinot Noir, La Consulta2012 Bodega Aleanna El Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary 2013 Casarena Laurens Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Agrelo2014 Catena Appellation Cabernet Sauvignon, Agrelo 2013 Chacra Treinta y Dos Pinot Noir, Ro Negro 2015 Chacra Sin Azufre Pinot Noir, Ro Negro2013 De Angeles Via 1924 Single Vineyard Gran Cabernet Sauvignon, Vistalba 2013 Finca Las Moras Gran Syrah, San Juan2015 El Porvenir de Cafayate Laborum Single Vineyard Tannat, Cafayate2012 Jos-Luis Mounier Laguna Brava Tannat Selected Reserve, Cafayate2013LaMascotaGranMascotaCabernetSauvignon,ParajeAltamira2013 Luca Nico de Luca High G Lot Pinot Noir, Gualtallary 2012 Pulenta Estate Gran Cabernet Franc, Agrelo 2013 Riglos Gran Cabernet Sauvignon, Tupungato 2013 SonVida Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza2013 Via Cobos Marchiori Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Perdriel1994WeinertEstrellaCabernetSauvignon,LujndeCuyo2015 Zorzal Eggo Franco, Gualtallary2013 Zuccardi Finca Los Membrillos Cabernet Sauvignon, La Consulta 2014ZuccardiEmmaZuccardiBonarda,ParajeAltamira

Best

Best

RED BLENDS

OTHER REDS


2014 Blanchard y Lurton, Uco Valley2013BressiaLgrimaCanela,UcoValley2013 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay, Uco Valley2013 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard White Stones Chardonnay, Uco Valley2015ColomAlturaMximaSauvignonBlanc,Salta2006 Cruzat Gran Millsime, Mendoza 2015 Dominio del Plata White Blend, Uco Valley2014 La Giostra del Vino Saltimbanco Sauvignon Blanc, Mendoza 2014LaGiostradelVinoBacnSauvignonBlancReserva,VistaFlores2015MendelSemillon,ParajeAltamira2014 Piedra Negra Gran Lurton, Uco Valley 2013 Salentein Single Vineyard Plot 2 Chardonnay, Uco Valley2015 Riccitelli Wines Old Vines Semillon, Patagonia

Best

WHITE AND SPARKLING


A classification of Argentinas best producers

Bodega AleannaBodega TacuilBodega VistalbaBressiaChacraCheval des AndesCruzatDominio del Plata

Fabre Montmayou LucaNoemaNortonRiccitelli WinesWeinertZorzal

SECOND GROWTHS

AchvalFerrerAltos Las HormigasCatena Zapata ColomDe AngelesDoa PaulaMendelPer Se

Pulenta EstateRiglosSalenteinTintonegroTrapicheVia CobosZuccardi

FIRST GROWTHS

AndelunaAtamisqueBodega TehoCaroCasa BianchiCasarenaChakanaCuarto Dominio

La Giostra del VinoLa MascotaNavarro CorreasPiedra NegraRutiniTerrazas de los AndesTres 14

THIRD GROWTHS

Alta VistaBuscadoCorazn del SolEl EstecoEl Porvenir de CafayateFinca AmbrosaFinca FlichmanFuego Bodega

Gen de AlmaMater ViniPassionate WinePuramunPyrosSonVidaVialba

FOURTH GROWTHS


AbremundosAlpamantaAltocedroAltos TerruosAltupalkaAnkoAntucuraAvarizzaBlanchard y LurtonBodega del DesiertoBodega del Ro ElorzaBodega Elvira CalleCadusCara SurCasa de UcoChamanChandonClos de los SieteCuvelier de los AndesDeumayenEntonadoEl RelatorEntre VeroEscorihuela GascnEtchartFamilia CassoneFamilia SchroederFilus Bodega y ViedosFinca AgostinoFin del MundoFincas Don MartinoFinca La AnitaFinca Las MorasFinca QuaraFernando DupontGimnez RilliHacienda del PlataHuarpe Wines

Huentala WinesHumberto CanaleKaiknLa RevanchaLeo BorsiLos TonelesLuigi BoscaMapemaMarcelo PelleritiMariano di PaolaMariflorMelipalMontechezMonteviejoMorelli Vino de CavaMosquita MuertaMundo RevsMythic VineyardsNieto SenetinerOjodeAguaOnofri WinesPaimnPascual TosoPiattelliPlop!Proemio WinesPucarRevolverTriventoTukmaUndergroundVaglioVallistoVer SacrumVicentinVia AliciaVia Las Perdices

CRUS BOURGEOIS

AmalayaDiamAndes de UcoDomaine BousquetFinca DeceroFinca La EscarchaFinca SopheniaJos-Luis MounierLagarde

Manos NegrasMarcelo MirasMoor-BarrioO FournierSanPedrodeYacochuyaTempus AlbaVia Vida

FIFTH GROWTHS


Some notes about scoring and my 2016 classificationThe wines for this report were tasted in Argentina over a period of three weeks in January and February 2016. Around two-thirds of these were sampled at individual wineries, while the rest were assessed at bespoke sighted tastings organised by Winifera and Wines of Argentina in Mendoza and Buenos Aires, sometimes in the presence of a representative from the bodega in question. Almost all of the wines I assessed were bottled, but there were a few wines that I tasted as (nearly)finishedsamplesfromtankorbarrel.

When I taste at a winery, I am more than happytodiscussthewines(butnotmyfinalscore or tasting note) with the person who made them. Some critics would argue that this exerts aninfluenceonthetaster,butIseeitdifferently.Talking to winemakers and viticulturists is the best way to understand local conditions, vintage

variations and stylistic nuances. I hope I am a sufficientlyexperiencedtastertojudgeawineforwhat it is, warts, beauty spots and all.

This report runs to more than 50,000 words. Rather than provide a tasting note for every one of the 1,093 wines I sampled, I have concentrated on the 688 brands that scored 90 points or more. It is a measure of the improvements in Argentinean winethattherewere161oftheseinmyfirstannual report and nearly four times that number here. Despite some tricky recent vintages, Argentinas wines are getting better and better.

Ive suggested a drinking window for each wine and, where appropriate, provided its varietal make up.

Have a look at the example below to see how Iveorganisedtheinformationforeachwine:

This is my second attempt to classify Argentinas best producers, an annual exercise that has stimulated some debate, as well as criticism in some quarters. This is very loosely based onthe1855BordeauxClassification,withfivedifferentbands(first,second,third,fourthandfifthgrowths)andalargergroupofso-calledCrus Bourgeois. Unlike the Bordeaux system, which rated the properties according to market price, my only criterion is quality. This year, I haveincreasedthenumberofclassifiedgrowthsto75toreflectwhatIseeasthedynamismandexcitement of the Argentinean wine scene, and boosted the crus bourgeois to 75, too.

My2016classificationisasnapshotoftheArgentinean wine industry and is very much my opinion. Mindful that a critic should attempt to reward talent, irrespective of a long track record in some cases, I have chosen my favourite producers, rather than parroted the opinions ofothers.Someofmyclassifiedproducershavemade only a handful of vintages or fewer Buscado, Casa de Uco, Corazn del Sol, Cuarto

Dominio, Fuego Bodega, Gen de Alma, Mater Vini, Moor-Barrio, Per Se, Pyros, Riccitelli Wines, SonVida, Tintonegro and Tres 14 but I think thats irrelevant. Its whats in the glass that counts. Time may prove me wrong, but I thinkthatthesewinerieswillhelptodefinetheArgentinean wine scene over the next quarter of a century.

Myclassificationhaschangedsignificantlysince last year. Nineteen of my 75 classed growths are new this year Bodega Vistalba, Bodega Tacuil, Casa Bianchi, Caro, Dominio del Plata, Finca Ambrosa, Finca La Escarcha, La Mascota, Finca Sophenia, Jos-Luis Mounier, Luca, Marcelo Miras, Moor-Barrio, Navarro Correas, Puramun, Pyros, SonVida, Tempus Alba, and Weinert while four wineries have beenpromotedtofirstgrowthstatus(PerSe,Pulenta Estate, Tintonegro, and Trapiche). Its all change among the 75 crus bourgeois, too, where there are 43 new names, several of which will surely be promoted next year.

scoreWine nameAlcohol level, RegionShort tasting note, drinking window

Red White

Ros Sparkling

Sweet

My 2016 Classification

2016 Tim Atkin

Page 35


Tasting notes

2013 Colom Altura Mxima MalbecSalta 14.5% Youdexpectthehighestvineyardintheworldtoproducesomethingspecial,andthatsdefinitelythecasehere.PickedattheendofApril,thishighaltitudeMalbechasmatcheduptotheabundantpromiseofitsfirstvintagein2012.Powerfullyaromaticandfocused,itsdense, profound and textured, packed with crunchy, spicy blackberry and black cherry fruit and destined for further development in bottle.2017-26

2013 Zuccardi Finca Canal UcoParajeAltamira15%MadewithslightlyoldervinesthanthePiedraInfinitabottling,thisisanotherremarkablewine from the Zuccardi team. Dark, dense and powerful, with enormous fruit weight, very littleoakinfluence,compact,butfinelyjudgedtanninsandabright,mineral-edgedfinish.Sappy, complex and complete. 2018-28

2013 Achval Ferrer Finca Altamira MalbecUco Valley 14% TheAchavalFerrervineyardismadeupoffiveblocks,amountingto7hectaresintotalthatwereplantedin1925.Theresultisthefreshestandfinestredinthewinerysstellarline-up.Floral,scentedandenticing,thisisaneffortlesslypure,complexMalbecwithstylishoakandlayerafterlayerofflavoursupportedbychalkyminerality.2017-26

2014 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Appellation Gualtallary PiedrasGualtallary 14.2% TheresahugedifferencebetweenAltostwoGualtallarybottlingsin2014,somakesureyouchoose this one. Focused, intense and typically chalky, this is polished and well balanced withintenseblackberryandorangepeelnotes,understatedoakandafinishthatlingersforover a minute on the palate. Essence of the upper Uco Valley. 2017-26

2013 Zuccardi Aluvional MalbecParajeAltamira14.5%A wine that encapsulates the exciting changes that have taken place at Zuccardi (and in Argentina) over the last decade, this is a world-class red from an exceptional, limestone-influencedsite.Focused,floralandnuanced,withnotesofwildherbs,redandblackfruits,finetanninsandpithyacidity.2017-26

2013 Zuccardi Finca Piedra Infinita MalbecParajeAltamira15%Aselectionofthebest,limestone-richspotsintheZuccardisParajeAltamiravineyards,thisis as good as it gets from Argentina right now. Inky, concentrated, yet refreshing, with very littleoakinfluencebutmassesofdark,spicy,aromaticfruitweight.Closedandbrooding,butwith the focus and balance to unfurl its complexity in bottle. 2018-27

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2013 Achval Ferrer Finca Bella Vista MalbecPerdriel 14% The vines around the winery in Perdriel are mostly over 100 years old and it always shows in the density of this varietal Malbec. The cooler vintage seems to give the wine a little more purityanddefinitionin2013.Liquorice,mulberryandpepperspicenotesarecomplementedby stylish oak. Structured enough to age, but almost drinkable now. 2016-23

2013 Achval Ferrer Temporis MalbecMendoza 14% Made with a third of each of the Finca wines - which was why there was no Temporis in 2012 - this is always the most expensive bottling at Achaval, but not necessarily the best. In 2013,itsjustanotchbelowtheFincaAltamira,showingplush,bramble,plumandliquoriceflavours,finetanninsandanattractive,volatilelift.Denseandageworthy.2017-24

2015 Bodega Tacuil Vias de DvalosMolinos 15.7 % DescribedasanaperitifbyRaulDvalosSenior,wholikestoteasevisitors,thisco-fermented blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a single vineyard on this hugeestate.Bigandbroad,yetfocusedatthesametime,thisissmoothandchalkywithfinetanninsandintensedamsonandblueberrynotes,finishingwithaminerallybite.2016-22

2013 Catena Mundus Bacillus Terrae MalbecUco Valley 14.1% This ambitious new release from Catena (US$300 a bottle, no less) is a radical departure for thewinerythatshowstheleftfieldthinkingofwinemakerAleVigil.Oldwood,50%wholebunches and partial carbonic maceration all contribute to the complexity of this remarkable Malbec, sourced from the same chalky soils as White Bones Chardonnay. Fresh and sappy witharomaticredfruitsandnotesofclove,pepperspiceandbrambleandalingeringfinish.2016-25

2011 Catena Zapata NicolsMendoza 14% Consistently among the best red blends in Argentina, and a wine that ages brilliantly, this cuve includes only 25% Malbec this year, partly because the Agrelo Cabernet was so good in2012.Lastmadein2006,itsafinelybalancedwinethatcombinesthetwograpestoperfection, with notes of graphite, cassis, blueberry and subtle oak underpinned by plenty of structure and concentration. 2016-28

2013 Cheval des AndesMendoza 14.8%IsChevaldesAndesfinallystartingtofulfilitsenormouspotential?Soitwouldappear,because this is the best vintage yet of this Malbec-dominated blend. Theres less oak and the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot are delivering greater freshness on the palate. Spice, acidity,creamyvanillaoak,finetanninsandnotesofmint,blackberryanddriedherbs.2017-24

2014 Colom Autntico MalbecSalta 14.5%MadeasatributetoRalDvalos,whousedtoownColomandwhohatesoak,thisveryoldvine cuve, some of it produced from ungrafted vines, sees no barrels at all. Dense, compact and focused, its an amazing wine with layers of wild, aromatic complexity and dense blackberry fruit. 2017-25

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2012 Doa Paula Alluvia Parcel Malbec Bush VinesGualtallary 14.5% Sourced from one of the best vineyards in Gualtallary, much of it planted on an old riverbed, this is wonderfully scented and hedonistic, unfurling aromas of thyme and rosemary and flavoursofblackberry,tapenade,sweetoakandchalky,palate-cleansingacidity.Andthevinesareonlyfiveyearsold.2017-26

2013 Mendel Finca Remota MalbecParajeAltamira14.4%To my mind, this is the best release yet of Finca Remota, made in a cool vintage and benefitingfromtheextrafreshness.Aromatic,violet-scentedandveryfine,itsasuperconcentrated wine with beautifully delineated oak, notes of dried herbs and vibrant, chalky, blueberry and damson fruit. 2017-26

2014 Per Se La CraieGualtallary 14.4%This co-fermented blend of Malbec with 20% Cabernet Franc comes from the same vineyard asPerSesIubileus,buthasmorelimestoneinfluence,asitsnamesuggests.Thereareonlytwobarrels,neitherofthemnew,ofthisexceptionalwine.Fresh,chalkyandrefined,withdenseblackfruitflavours,subtleoak,ahintofgreenherbsandamineralflourish.Longandcomplex on the palate, this is a wine for the cellar. 2019-28

2012 Pulenta Estate Gran CorteMendoza 14.5% This brilliant blend of Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Tannat is nearly always the best wine at Pulenta Estate, and thats the case in the excellent 2012vintage.Thecombinationofvarietiesisseamlesshere,demonstratingfinesse,oakintegration,finetanninsandnotesofmint,tobacco,driedherbs,cassisandbramble.2016-25

2013 Riglos Gran Cabernet SauvignonTupungato 14.5% Riglos vineyard in Gualtallary is one of the best Cabernet sites in Argentina, especially in a coolervintagelike2013.Showingverypurevarietalflavours,withdenseblackcurrantandblackberryfruit,massesofdryextract,fine-grainedtanninsandnotesofgreenherbsandmint supported by acidity. 2017-25

2013 Tintonegro 1955 Vineyard MalbecLa Consulta 14% Guess when this vineyard was planted? Actually, its a combination of two sites, one of which was planted in 1941. This is a stunning wine, showing layers of dark, savoury blackberry andliquoriceflavours,smoothtannins,brightacidityandabalanced,nuancedfinish.Verycomplete. 2017-26

2011 Trapiche IscayMendoza 14.5% Combining Malbec from Gualtallary with 30% Cabernet Franc from Maip, this is a very similar blend to the 2010, but is a step up in quality. Perfume, pepper spice, some capsicum, stylishoakandchalkyminerality:thisisoneofthebestcandidatesforyourcellarinArgentina. 2016-26

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2012 Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec Finca AmbrosaGualtallary 15.5% The highest of the three vineyards that are used for the Terroir Series, this is also from a young site. Its the most refreshing and focused of the trio, with red and black fruits, stylish oak and the chalky minerality that is so typical of the best wines from Gualtallary. 2016-26

2013 Tres 14 ImperfectoGualtallary 14.5% As well as being the chief winemaker at Trapiche, Daniel Pi makes this, his own brand, on the side. Its a brilliant, co-fermented blend of Malbec with 3% Cabernet Franc from Gualtallary, thats layered, refreshing and very complex. Spicy, peppery and stylishly oaked, it has a mineral-edgedfinishthatlingersenticinglyonthepalateandatouchofwholebunches.2017-26

2013 Via Cobos MalbecPerdriel 14.9% Is this the best wine in Argentina? Some critics seem to think so. Its certainly a very impressiveMalbec,butitsonethatsmadeinaparticularstyle:aromatic,concentratedandlavishly oaked, with ripe plum and blackberry fruit, attractive spices and plenty of alcohol. This is slightly fresher than the 2012, pointing to a slight shift in style. 2016-24

1983 Weinert Cavas de Weinert Gran VinoLujndeCuyo14%Anyone who thinks that the best Argentinean wines are incapable of ageing for 30 years or more should try a bottle of this remarkable Bordeaux blend, still available from Weinert. Complex,savouryandslightlyferal,itsasweet,figgy,floral,matureredwithnotesofdriedherbs and incense. 2016-22

1994 Weinert Estrella MalbecLujndeCuyo14.5%A wine that spent 15 years in old wooden toneles before bottling, this is a remarkable old vineMalbecthatwouldntlookoutofplaceinRiojaorTuscany.Complexandstillevolving,itsconcentrated,stylishandsmokywithplentyoftannicbackboneandsweet,figgyflavours.2016-24

2013 Zuccardi Aluvional MalbecGualtallary 14.5% OneofthegreatthingsabouttheAluvionalseriesishowdifferenttheytaste.Madewithpurchased fruit from Tupungato Winelands, this is fresh, richly aromatic and peppery withfine-grained,butfirmtannins,notesofthymeandrosemaryandafrissonofchalkyminerality. 2017-28

2013 Zuccardi Aluvional MalbecLa Consulta 14.5% The La Consulta site is a stony, river-derived soil at lower altitude and tends to produce the darkest and most concentrated of the three Aluvional bottlings. Chalky, savoury and dense, withunderstatedoakandpunchytannins,itsawinethatwillageeffortlesslyinbottle.2017-26

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2013 Zuccardi Finca Los MembrillosLa Consulta 14.5% The Zuccardis are increasingly regarded as Malbec specialists, but they are equally adept at making Cabernet Sauvignon if this varietal expression is anything to go by. Subtle oak, mint and dried herbs, blackcurrant sweetness, some graphite and green pepper and textured, finelyjudgedtannins.2018-26

2013 Andeluna Pasionado Cuatro CepasTupungato 14.6% ThefourgrapesinquestionareCabernetSauvignon,CabernetFrancandjustalittleMerlot,whichstruggledin2013.Thisisalovely,refinedwineshowingleafy,greenpepperandgraphitenotes,nuanced,filigreetannins,stylishoakandrefreshing,focusedacidity.Everybit as good as the 2012. 2017-24

2013 Bodega Aleanna El Enemigo MalbecMendoza 13.9% Sourced entirely from vineyards in the cool (in both sense of the word) Uco Valley sub-region of Gualtallary, this is an outstanding blend of Malbec with 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Dense, yet chalky, its a multi-layered wine where the perfumed, blackberry fruit does the talking. 2016-22

2012 Bodega Aleanna El Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard Cabernet FrancGualtallary 13.9% Ninesoiltypesandthirty-twodifferentvinificationscontributetothecomplexityofthiswine.Chalkyandrefined,itsadeliciousCabernetFranc(with15%Malbec),showingflavoursofgreenherbs,capsicumandrefreshingminerality,supportedbystructured,well-definedtannins. 2016-25

2014 Bodega Cuarto Dominio Chento Single Lot MalbecMendoza 14% If the 2013 release of this blend of Malbec with 5% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot was special, this is even better, taking its place among Mendozas best reds. Smoky mulberry and blueberryfruit,superbbalance,structuredtanninsandafine,refreshing,taperingfinish.Red winemaking of a high order. 2017-25

2013 CaroMendoza 14.5% ThebestredIvehadyetfromthisFranco-Argentinejointventure,thisequalblendof Cabernet from Las Compuertas and Cabernet Sauvignon from Altamira is rich and concentrated,butwithconsiderablestyleandpolish.Savoury,sappyandjustalittleearthy,withsupportingacidityandbeautifullyjudgedoakintegration.2017-30

2014 Catena Appellation Cabernet SauvignonAgrelo 13.5% This is stand-out red among the Catena appellation wines, made with the Furlotti Cabernet selection. Old vines, cold soils and subtly interwoven French oak are complemented by classic Cabernet grip and backbone. Dried herbs, mint and blueberry fruit combine to impressiveeffecthere.2016-22

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2013 Catena Fortuna Terrae MalbecUco Valley 14.1% Another new release from the Catena stable, also from the Adrianna Vineyard, but made in a verydifferentwayfromtheRiverstonebottling,usingolderoaktoallowthefruittoexpressitself.Spicy,brightandfinelybalanced,thishasimpressiveperfume,sculptedtanninsandalimestone frisson. 2017-23

2013 Chacra Pinot Treinta y Dos Pinot NoirRo Negro 13.2% Palerincolourthanthe1955bottling,whichitoftenis,thisisalsomoredelicateandrefined.Theres a touch more new oak here, but its balanced by the sweet wild strawberry and cherry stoneflavoursandsilkytannins.Freshandtangy,thisfinisheswithachalkyflourishthatcleans the palate. 2017-23

2015 Chacra Sin Azufre Pinot NoirRo Negro 13% A radical new departure for Chacra, but you may have to go to Patagonia to taste it, as this concrete-fermented and aged Pinot is made without sulphur and unlikely to be exported. Floral,cleanandsappywithrosepetalandredcherryflavoursandrefinedtannins.WhosaysPinot needs oak? Or sulphur? 2017-19

2014 Chakana Ayni MalbecParajeAltamira14.5%The 2013 of this top Altamira Malbec was very good indeed, but this is even better. Aromatic, fineanddeftlyoaked,itmanagestocombinedensityandblackberryfruitweightwithfreshness, focus and minerality. Edging towards the Uco Valleys elite group of Malbecs.2017-25

2012 Cheval des AndesMendoza 15% The move to larger ok formats and earlier picking is apparent in this blend of Malbec with 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petit Verdot, as is the slightly cooler year. Plum and liquoriceflavours,cutgrassandgraphitearomasandfine,butconcentratedtanninsallcontribute to an impressive cuve. 2017-24

2013 De Angeles Via 1924 Single Vineyard Gran Cabernet SauvignonVistalba 15.2% This is a brilliant expression of the fruit from Parcel 3, thats a very pure expression of the variety. Its dense, serious and compact, with quite a bit of oak, but plenty of structure too. Spice,graphite,somevanillaanddense,compactdamsonandblackfigflavourswithasmokyfinish.2017-24

2013 De Angeles Via 1924 Single Vineyard Gran CorteVistalba 14.8% Madeforthefirsttimein2012,thisblendofMalbecwith30%Cabernetisanimpressivesecond release. Dense, ripe and showing the concentration thats a feature of this vineyard, this has plenty of oak, a slight volatile lift and dense, dark bramble, blackberry and blackcurrantflavours.Big,boldandstructured.2017-25

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2013 De Angeles Via 1924 Single Vineyard Gran MalbecVistalba 14.8% The Gran Malbec comes from Parcel 3 of this characterful vineyard and is aged for 14 months in one third new oak. The cooler year is apparent in the perfume and texture of the wine, as well as its nuanced tannins. The oak needs more time to integrate, but the fruit is sweet, supple and yet refreshing. 2017-23

2012 Doa Paula Seleccin de Bodega MalbecMendoza 14.5% Using fruit from Doa Paulas three Mendoza vineyards - in Ugarteche, San Carlos and Gualtallary - this is dominated by the two Uco parcels to compensate for a hotter vintage in2012.WildMediterraneanherbs,sappyacidity,fineoakandchiselledtanninsarecomplemented by sweet black fruits. 2017-25

2012 Fabre Montmayou Grand VinMendoza 14.5% Consistently among the leading red blends in Argentina, this is a cuve of Malbec with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Old vine concentration, stylish oak and skilful winemaking have produced an assemblage thats smoky, intense and very plush with impressiveblackberry,damsonandliquoricenotesandaverylongfinish.2017-25

2013 Finca Flichman DedicadoTupungato 14.5% Made by the youthful German Berra, this Uco Valley blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Syrahand10%Malbecisoutstanding.Itsafloral,elegant,refinedstylewithfinetannins,succulentredberryfruitandtangy,supportingacidity.Effortlesslywellbalanced.2016-22

2013 La Mascota Gran Mascota Cabernet SauvignonParajeAltamira14.5%The Altamira origins of this wine, made with purchased fruit, are apparent on the nose and palate, where chalky minerality is appealingly evident. Focused, sappy and long, with cassis andforestfruitsanddeftlyintegratedoak.Awinethatmakesyouwanttofinishthebottle.2016-23

2013 Luca Nico by Luca High G Lot MalbecGualtallary 14% Like the Pint Noir under the same label, this comes from a vineyard that was planted in 2010 andisanotheroutstandingred.Scented,floralandrefined,withageinginone-thirdnewoak,dense,yetcrunchyblackfruits,finetanninsandahintofwildherbs.Partofaradicalchange of style here. 2017-25

2013 Noema MalbecRo Negro 15% Patagoniastopwineisonfineforminthiscoolervintage.Gloriouslyperfumedandspicy,itsarich,savoury,stylishlyoakedMalbecwithripe,fine-grainedtannin,brightacidityandtheconcentration to age further in bottle. This is all about fruit quality and gentle winemaking.2017-25

2010 Norton Gernot LangesMendoza 14.8% The top wine from Norton, which is always released with some bottle age, is a blend of Malbecwith20%eachofCabernetSauvignonandCabernetFranc.Itsjustmovingintoa secondary phase, away from primary fruit into a world of tobacco leaf, game and Asian spices, complemented by summer berries and a core of tannin. 2016-20

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2012 Norton Lote A112 MalbecAgrelo 14.5% Sourced from Agrelo, this is a suitably rich, concentrated Malbec with opulent texture and well-integrated oak. Floral and full of enticing plum and blueberry fruit, complemented by pepper and nutmeg spice and underlying freshness, this is modern Argentinean winemaking at its best. 2016-24

2014 Per Se Volare del CaminoGualtallary 14.4% This new release for the Per Se team comes from a tiny, limestone-rich parcel located at 1,450 metres. Its a varietal Malbec that, like all the wines from this young operation, is very ambitiousinstyle.Focused,tautandsuperdense,itsdefinedbyitsmineralityandfreshness,but is packed with dark berry fruit. An exciting dbut from this impressive winery. 2017-28

2012 Pulenta Estate Gran Cabernet FrancAgrelo 14.5% The Pulentas were making classy Cabernet Franc long before the vogue for the variety got underwayinMendoza.Thisisasgoodasever:grassy,graphite-scentedandfine,witheffortlesslyintegratednewoak,filigreetannins,notesofspiceandgreenpepperandapolished,lingeringfinish.2016-23

2013 Puramun Malbec ReservaMendoza 14% Pepe Galante is one of the best winemakers in Argentina, so its no surprise that the reds he produces under his own label are so impressive. This is a typically elegant, subtle Malbec with notes of red berry fruit, subtle spices, well integrated oak and silky, palate-caressing tannins. 2017-23

2013 Riglos Gran CorteTupungato 14.5% This almost equal cuve of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is consistently one of the best Bordeaux blends in Argentina. Dense, oaky and made for the long term, its notafraidtobeserious.Compact,focusedandstonywithfirm,concentrated,darkberryfruit and excellent balance. 2018-26

2014 Salentein Single Vineyard San Pablo Plot No. 14 MalbecUco Valley 14.5% Youdhavetosaythatthisisamarginalsite,locatedat1,450metresandpickedattheendofApril,butthisisathrillingwine.Elegant,chalkyandrefinedwithfocus,balanceandpalate-cleansingacidity,stylishuseofoakandaspicy,cloveandpepper-likefinish.Imalreadylooking forward to the next release. Its a shame there are only 3,000 bottles produced.2017-25

2013 Tintonegro Finca La Escuela MalbecParajeAltamira14%Combining fruit from the vineyards four soil types, picked over the space of three weeks, this is like a greatest hits collection. Its a very complete, stony wine that eschews easy drinkabilityinfavouroflongevity.Whitepepper,clove,subtleoak,violetandplumflavoursanddark,grippy,minerallytannins:superbwinemakingfromtheTintonegroteam.2017-25

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2013 Tintonegro La Escuela Vineyard La Piedra MalbecParajeAltamira14%Of the four La Escuela Vineyard bottlings, this is the one with the highest percentage of calcium carbonate and it shows in the refreshing minerality of the wine. Zippy, focused and tangy,withnotesofwildherbs,goodgripandfruitweightandalong,palate-cleansingfinish.2017-25

2013 Trapiche Iscay Syrah/ViognierUco Valley 14.5% A Rhne meets California style from Los Arboles, this is a co-fermentation with 3% Viognier and 20 whole bunches. Its a spicy, peppery number with good minerality, understated oak, a hint of apricot and gentle oak integration. One of Argentinas best Rhne blends. 2016-21

2012 Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec Cristina y Bibiana ColettoTupungato 14.5% Made with grapes from a vineyard at 1,200 metres, planted in 1945 on sandy, silty soils, this is showing delightful perfume and balance in 2012. Fine-grained tannins, succulent red fruits, bright acidity and stylish oak all make a contribution to this appropriately feminine wine from the Coletto sisters. 2016-24

2012 Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec Finca Orellana de EscobarLa Consulta 14.5% TheOrellanaparcelislocatedonstony,alluvialsoilsclosetoParajeAltamiraandbenefitsfrom densely planted old vines. This is typically rich and complex, with aromas of liquorice and Mediterranean herbs, good sap and focus, subtle oak, smooth tannins, blueberry fruit and a hint of minerality. 2016-23

1994 Weinert Estrella Cabernet SauvignonLujndeCuyo14.5%TherehaveonlybeenfiveEstrellawinesinthelast40years,sothesetendtobeprettyspecial as well as rare. This was made by the legendary Raul de la Motta and its an amazing, matureredwithcomplexflavoursofdriedherbs,mintandfruitcakeunderpinnedbyacidityand stylish tannins. 2016-24

2013 Zorzal Field BlendGualtallary 14.5% Supremely graceful and aromatic, this grassy, stylish, chalky red is a brilliant cuve of co-fermented Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Finer than the 2012 and a little riper too, this is asappy,floraldelight,showingjusttherightamountofoak.2017-24

2015 Zuccardi Concreto MalbecParajeAltamira14%Texture,notsweetnessiswhatSebastinZuccardiislookingforinthis80%wholebunch-fermented Malbec, which, as its name suggests, sees no wood. Spicy and smooth, with meaty, tapenade notes that wouldnt look out of place in the northern Rhne Valley, this is superbly balanced. 2016-23

2012 Zuccardi ZetaUco Valley 15% Zeta combines Malbec from La Consulta with 13% Cabernet Sauvignon from Gualtallary, with a touch of whole bunches and ageing in large wooden foudres. The Cabernet gives the wine tannic depth and focus, allowing the Malbec to show its violet and lavender perfume and sweet blueberry fruit. 2017-24

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2013 Achval Ferrer QuimeraMendoza 14.5% Theres no Petit Verdot in the 2013 Quimera (it was hailed on), but more Cabernet Franc than usual. Spicy, chalky and sappy, with lots of red berry fruit, savoury tannins, stylish oak and notes of violets and blueberries. In short, this is a typically polished performance from the Achaval team. 2016-21

2014 Altocedro Pinot NoirLa Consulta 14% Karim Mussis Pinot Noir is a delicious expression of the so-called heartbreak grape, sourced from La Consulta of all places. Pale and very subtle, with clove spice notes from partial whole bunch fermentation, sweet, succulent wild strawberry fruit and aromatic oak. Very exciting.2016-19

2014 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Appellation AltamiraParajeAltamira14%Showing the focus, perfume and grip that are a feature of many Altamira wines, this has bright acidity, sappy tannins, barely discernible oak, dark blackberry and damson fruit and typically chalky minerality. Brilliant and brave winemaking from the Chilea-Italian Altos crew. 2017-25

2013 Amalaya Finca San Isidro Corte UnicoSalta 14.5% Barrel fermented in new oak, this is a perfumed, high quality blend of Malbec with 5% each ofTannatandCabernetSauvignon.Sweetplumandbrambleflavoursarecomplementedbysuppletannins,stylishvanillaspiceandalong,taperingfinish.Asuperbfollowuptothedbut 2012. 2017-21

2011 Atamisque AssemblageUco Valley 15% Some of the Malbec fruit that goes into this blend with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot comes from vines that are over 100 years old. Its another very stylish, nuanced wine with sculpted tannins, chalky acidity and notes of umami, black fruits and dried herbs. 2016-21

2013 Bodega Aleanna El Enemigo Cabernet FrancUco Valley 13.9% If you want to see what all the fuss is about Argentinean Cabernet Franc, try a bottle of this example (blended with 7% Malbec). The 50% whole bunches add spice and structure to a wine thats bold, saline and complex, showing notes of spice, rich tannins and profound damson and black cherry fruit. 2016-22

2012 Bodega Aleanna El Gran EnemigoGualtallary 13.9% This Cabernet Franc-based red contains lesser percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, all of it grown on limestone soils in Gualtallary. Its a big, powerful wine that needs time. Mint, dried Mediterranean herbs, whole bunch spices and rich, compact tannins. 2016-24

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2012 Bodega Aleanna El Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard Cabernet FrancAgrelo 13.9% Unusually for a Bodega Aleanna wine, this comes from Agrelo rather than the Uco Valley. Its co-fermented with 15% Malbec and made with 100% whole bunches and very little oak influence.Spicy,powerfulandsappywithnotesofgreenpepper,cloveandblueberryandanuanced,balancedfinish.2016-23

2013 Bodega Cuarto Dominio Chento Single Lot MalbecMendoza 13.9% A discovery for me this year, Javier Catenas blend of Malbec with 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot is a revelation. Its an ambitious, stylishly oaked wine showing delightful balance betweencrunchyfruit,finetanninsandminerallyacidity.Verylongandverypolished.2017-24

2015 Bodega Tacuil 33 de DvalosMolinos 15.5% Youdimaginethatawinewith15.5%alcoholwouldtastealittlejammyandover-ripe,butthats not the case at Tacuil, where the wines have vitality and vibrancy, thanks to their high altitude. This 80/20 Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon blend is pure, balanced and wonderfully aromatic, showing violet, lavender and oregano notes. 2016-25

2013 Bodega Vistalba Corte AVistalba 15% The Corte A blend is an assemblage of Malbec with 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Bonarda, with more evident new oak and more concentration. This is a ripe style, all right, butitspolishedandharmoniouswithfiggy,raspberryandblackcherryfruitandfine-grained tannins. Classy winemaking. 2016-22

2010 Bressia Ultima HojaMendoza 14.5% There are only 1,700 bottles of this, the top Bressia cuve made, and the blend is always a secret. Its a bold, impressive red that sees 200% new French oak. Ripe, textured and full of dark berry fruit, this is suitably toasty on the palate, with masses of concentration for balance. 2016-22

2013 Buscado Vivo o Muerte La VerdadGualtallary 14% My favourite Buscado wine is a co-fermented blend of Malbec with 7% Cabernet Franc, showing the wildness and intense perfume of Gualtallary. Savoury, aromatic and dense with pure,liftedfruitflavoursofmulberry,brambleandblackcurrant,texturedtanninsandagrassy, green pepper note. 2017-25

2012 Casa Bianchi Enzo BianchiSan Rafael 14.5% First made by Paul Hobbs when he was a consultant at the winery, this is Bianchis top wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 14% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot. Its a very polished, modernstyleBordeauxblendsourcedfromchalkandvolcanicsoils,showingfine-grainedtannins and piercing blackcurrant fruit. 2017-24

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2014 Casa de Uco MalbecVista Flores 14.3% AbrilliantsecondreleasefromafledglingUcoValleyoperation,thisvarietal,coolerclimateMalbec is sappy and refreshing, with taut, refreshing acidity, notes of wild herbs and fresh earth, some pepper and clove and a core of succulent black fruits underpinned by minerality.2017-25

2013 Casa de Uco MalbecVista Flores 14.3% This is the more expensive of the two Malbec releases from Casa de Uco, made with a little mor

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a TIM ATKIN MW SPECIAL REPORT Argentina 2016 ... TIM ATKIN MW SPECIAL REPORT Page 02 TIM TKIN ARGENTINA 2016 Special Report Contents Pg 05 Introduction 07 Winemakers of Argentina 17