A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting by Tanya Dove

8/11/2019 A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting by Tanya Dove

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Menswear Pattern Cutting

First Edition

Tanya Dove-Designer, Creator, Author, Educator

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank:

My male friends who became my fitting models, and with their helptrying on my samples A Technical Foundation was created.

Edward, Stuart, Peter, Dominique, Tom and Scott.

My teacher Graham at London College of Fashion for teaching me

Bespoke Tailoring Techniques.

And to all the teachers and students who have crossed my path,

I thank you.


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A Technical Foundation

Womens WearPattern Cutting

ISBN 9781849634717

Concept to Creation

The Design Process

ISBN 9781849635738


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ContentsChapter Page No.

1 Information 4

2 Trousers 16

3 Pleats and Fullness 68

4 Body blocks 76

5 Front openings 92

6 Sleeves and Cuffs 106

7 Collars 130

8 Necklines 158

9 Hoods 164

10 Pockets 170

11 Shirt details 182

12 Jersey Tops 19213 Jersey Trousers 202

14 Boiler Suits 214

15 Casual Jackets 228

16 Casual Coats 238

17 Tailored Jackets 246

18 Tailored Coats 278

19 Ties 298

20 Loungewear 304

21 Grading 322

22 Specification Templates 328

23 Costing Garments 332

24 Fabrics 338


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Introduction

Menswear Designing

Men are now far more conscious of their body and the clothes they wear, with a greater

confidence in maintaining a well-groomed appearance now defines what it is to be a man in

todays society. The loose fitting shirts and loose tailored trousers of the 1980s have been

replaced from the catwalks to the high street with body conscious styles, interesting fabrics, and

clever cutting methods. Men are now much more aware of their own body and image, and how

clothes fit them.

Menswear designers and catwalk shows have always taken back stage to womens fashion shows

and publicity, but things are now changing for men. More and more menswear designers are

pushing the boundaries of what is classified as conventional clothing for men. There were moreskirts for men seen on the Summer 14 catwalks than seen before. The idea of men in skirts blurs

the visual distinctions between the sexes. It contradicts how men are expected to look and, more

fundamentally, challenges ideal attributes of male behavior. Their adoption by the general male

populace will ultimately depend on the re-evaluation of traditional gender conventions. Through

the work of contemporary designers, the idea of men in skirts is constantly given new impetus.

The new metro-sexual man is a young man with a healthy disposable income, living or working

near a city. He is perhaps the most promising consumer market of the decade. The acceptance and

changing shapes and styles in menswear is becoming as important as womens wear.

A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting

The aim of this book is to provide a clear flexible guide to pattern cutting for menswear. It

provides detailed construction information for garment blocks and components that are used to

produce well cut designs for men.

The measurements contained within this book have evolved from an analysis of young men, from

high street retailer sizing to individual body shapes. There is no definitive universal sizing chart,

many retailers adjusting their sizing to suit the age group of their consumers. The style of pattern

construction throughout the book provides a 40 chest, 100cm male model measurements. The

measurement guide is derived for the user to write his or her own chosen measurements, which

can replace the standard size. The pattern block construction throughout this book is for the

modern man, using up to date methodology of creation for a young slim figure.

The book includes three different shapes of body blocks that are used to create mens top body

garments. From the fitted young style of shirt, to the formal office shirt and casual weekend style.

These foundation body blocks are used throughout the book and adapted into jersey blocks, casual

jacket and tailored jacket blocks.


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To create collections, whether model size for catwalk shows and photo shoots, or an individuals

size, garment blocks are always used in industry and adapted into the chosen design. A Technical

Foundation takes you through the creation of these blocks, which can then be used and adapted

repeatedly. It is a foundation of pattern cutting as it shows you how to create the blocks, not

individual garment designs. A Technical Foundation shows you the creation of blocks through to

plans and patterns for making specific designs, where seam allowance is only added onto pattern

examples, blocks and plans being net of allowances.

The book is written for students and fashion designers to explore their own creativity in their

approach to mens garment creation. It shows clear detailed illustrations and technicalconstruction information, showing adaption of blocks in colour for easy use. Each garment block

section covers a range of different shaped garment blocks, which makes adapting into individual

designs that much easier.

The chapters have been designed in an order of simplicity at the beginning, and the technical

aspect of pattern cutting getting more complex throughout the book. Ranging from trouser and

body blocks through to tailoring and jersey wear blocks. With each garment and component in

different chapters A Technical Foundation has been designed in a way for the designers to evolve

through the book reaching a level of understanding and practice, to then have the technical

skills to design their own collections. There are also technically illustrated sample designs to

show the type of garments that the different blocks can create.

A Technical Foundation also shows detailed technical specification templates to enable the

designers to draw their designs in detail. It contains a chapter for costing garments and

producing specification sheets which are used in industry to work with pattern cutters and

factories. The grading chapter shows a grading size chart of how to change garment sizes,

with detailed illustrations and information on pivot grading.

The final chapter, Fabrics, gives information on how to cut out fabric and the different fabric

qualities. There are many choices of fabrics available to use within fashion design, from natural

fibres like cotton, wool, silk and linen to man made and mixed fibre fabrics. The fibres chart

gives a description of some different types of natural and manufactured fabrics available.

Tanya Dove


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1. INFORMATION

Measurement Size Chart

The measurement size chart is a guide of body measurements for size 100cm (40) chest, based

on a male model physique 6 foot tall. The measurements have been compiled by an analysis

of top high street retailers in the UK, and a selection of male models with the same chest

measurement. There is no definitive size chart across the UK, or indeed across the globe for

garment sizes. Many stores choose to adapt their size towards their customer profile. The main

difference between sizes is the chest and waist measurement where a 5cm grade (size

difference) is used. This still remains relatively standard across the industry. This measurement

guide chart has been used as the standard throughout A Technical Foundation. There is a column

for you to add in your own size chart, whether it is your own measurements or your idealistic

customers body size. Refer to Chapter 21, Grading for larger and smaller body sizes.

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rmation

Measurement 40"/100cm Your Size

Cross shoulder 46

One Shoulder 15

Back Neck Drop 1.5

Front Neck Drop 9

Back Neck Width 16

Neck Size42

XB - 14cm down from HPS 42

XF - 14cm down from HPS 40

CB neck to chest (armhole depth) 26

Chest 100

Waist - (natural WL - not used) 86

Waistline ( 4cm below natural WL) 89

Body length to natural waistline 53

Waistline to Seat line 20

Seat104

Crutch Line (body rise) from WL 28

Inside Leg 85

Outside Leg from WL 108

Thigh 59

Knee 40

Ankle 25

Sleeve Length 62

Bicep 32

Elbow 28Wrist 18


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Body Measurements

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Abbreviations Index

Abbreviations on patterns are used all across industry to save time and space in writing the fullwording. They are written on blocks, plans and patterns. Below is a chart of some key abbreviations.

Depending on design, would depend on what ones you would use within your pattern construction.

CH, WL and SL are always written on all pattern construction.

Pattern Making Tools

1. Fine liner pencil 0.5 lead size

2. Ruler A pattern master ruler has straight and curved edges and a right angle. It is the only

ruler required for pattern making.

3. Tape measure

4. Paper scissors

5. Notchers notchers make a small hole in patterns, to aid with sewing garments together.

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CB Centre BackCF Centre Front

SB Side BackSF Side Front

SS Side SeamCH Chest Line

WL Waist LineSL Seat Line (hipline)

CL Crutch LineCBL Centre Back LengthHPS High Point Shoulder

XF Cross FrontXB Cross Back

S ShoulderAD Armhole Depth

NL Neckline

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Ease

Ease = ease of movement. When a garment block is made with measurements you need to add anallowance to allow you to move and feel comfortable in the clothes. EASE is added into the chest, waist

and seatline as a standard. It is also added into shoulder lines, XB and XF for additional movement.

CH - Chest Line ease = 4cm (to help you breathe)WL - Waist Line ease = 2cm-4cm (to allow for eating)

SL - Seat Line ease = 4cm (so you can sit down)

The ease above is the standard industry amount. For some very fitted styles less ease can be added to

achieve the finished look, a minimum of 2cm anywhere on the body.

For top body garments a minimum of 4cm waist ease has been added as men do not wear their clothes as

tight around the waist as women can.2cm has been added at the waistline for trousers, otherwise they could be too big when fitted.

Seams

Seam allowances must be added onto all pattern pieces to allow you to sew them together. The industry

standard for seams is 1cm. Larger seams are used by more expensive retailers, and predominantly on

tailoring 1.5cm or 2cm seam. The most commonly used seams are:-

Straight Seama 1cm seam allowance when the seam is stitched together and over locked. Overlocking together and pressing to one side, or overlocking separately and pressing the seam open.

Flat Felled SeamThis seam is used traditionally for casual clothing, jeans, casual trousers andjackets which do not have lining. It is also used on mens tailored shirts. It finished the seam neatly on

both the inside and outside. 1.5cm seam allowance is used. Sewn together at 1.5cm, one side is then cut

to 0.5cm. The larger side is folded over at 0.5cm and stitched in place to finish at 1cm finish.

Straight Seam Flat Felled Seam

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Hems

A hem is the term used for an open edge the bottom of a garment and sleeves. The most commonhems are:-

A 2cm hem allowance is used when you double turn 1cm the hem and topstitch in place.

A 3-4cm hem allowance is used when you hand sew a hem. This is used for wool fabrics and tailored

garments. It is a more expensive way of finishing a garment. The top edge of the hem can either be

overlocked or have binding attached to finish the top raw fabric edge.

Notches

A notch is a small indentation made on pattern pieces and a 3mm cut is made in the same place on thefabric when the garment is cut out. They are to help sewing the garment together. They are used at

CL, WL, SL, Knee line, and in specific places like the end of a zipper opening, armholes to help sewing

curves etc. Notches help so always use as many as required, especially on long seams.

When making a garment with panels, back to back panels have two notches, front to front panels have

one notch. Back to front has just one notch. 1cm seam allowance is never notched, but bigger seam

allowances do have notches. The hemline is also notched.

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Darts

Mens blocks can have waist darts to bring excess from chest line to waistline. This is to take the 2Dpattern pieces and create 3D garments to fit the Human Form. They are used to create shaping to fit

the body where our bodies contour in and out. Some mens shirts have darts at the back to create more

fitted styles. On tailored jackets there is a small dart in the front panel to curve the garment from

chest to waist. Very rarely are darts seen on the front of mens shirts and top body garments.

Mens trousers have dart shaping at the back only due to men having small hip or seat measurement

in comparison to their waist measurement. The front of mens trousers are always flat down from the

waistline, unless they have pleats.

Drill Holes

A drill hole is a mark that is made on a plan and pattern and transferred onto the fabric when cutting.

They are used for pockets and details that are inside a pattern piece I.E. not on an edge where you can

use a notch. The position is marked accurately on the plan and pattern however on the fabric it is best

marked 3mm down and 3mm across from the actual position to prevent any fabric damage.

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ormation

Straight Grain- the selvedge is the natural edge of the fabric. The grain line of garments follow thisline down the length of the fabric (not the edge which has been cut when the fabric was purchased).

This is the most common grain line used for menswear.

Cross Grain -is when you cut at a right angle to the grain line. This would be cutting along theedge, which has been cut when purchased (across the fabric width). Only some fabrics can be cut out

cross grain these tend to be stable fabrics like cottons, which do not have much natural stretch. Cross

grain cutting is also used for design detailing if the fabric is for example a stripe or check.

Bias Grain this is when pattern pieces are cut at a 45-degree angle. This is where the fabric hasthe most amount of natural stretch. Bias cut garments cling more to the body, depending on the fabricthey can completely hug the body. Traditionally the back yoke of mens shirts is cut on the bias grain.

Grain Lines

Grain lines are always drawn on all blocks, plans and pattern pieces. These show the direction in whichthe fabric is to be cut out. The grain line is drawn to represent the selvedge of the fabric (the natural

edge). The grain line is drawn as a straight line with information written down the length. The purpose of

this is for the cutter to know how to cut the fabric from the pattern. It is important to ensure grain lines

are perfectly straight otherwise the fabric could be cut out wrong. This would be off grain. Fabric is

very sensitive when cut and if it is cut off grain it could cause the seams to not be smooth and the fabric

to not hang down the body correctly. This is called roping.

Grain Lines Diagram

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Zipper Openings

An opening on trousers finishes 18cm below the waistline to enable you to fit the garment over the seat.

Zips do not need to come any lower than 18cm below the waistline (even if you lower the

waistline). A notch mark is used to show where the zipper needs to end. This is applicable for side seam

and front and back openings. When a zipper is used at the side seam it is ALWAYS sewn on the LEFT side

of the body which makes it easy for right handed people to open easily.

When choosing a zipper for your garment it is advisable to select one that is a suitable thickness andweight for the fabric you are going to use. If the zipper is too thin and light it will not be strong enough

for repeated use. If the zipper is too heavy it might make the fabric drag down with the weight of the

zip.

Regular ZipperThis is the zipper where you can see the zip, the teeth. Used in trousers for the centre front fly

opening. There are now many styles of regular zippers with different coloured teeth, metal, plastic etc.

It opens one end only with the zipper pulley (also there are many types of zipper pulleys available). This

zipper is best used when you want to see the zip, or where the zip is covered by a stand, like on mens

trousers.

Open Ended ZipperThis zip opens both ends and is used in jackets, coats and garments where you need (or want) to open

the garment up completely. The same as a regular zipper, there are many choices of open-ended

zippers available. These tend to be heavy zips, and are best used in casual wear and outerwear.

Also available are double ended open ended zippers, where the garment can be partially opened down

from the top and also up from the bottom at the same time.

Invisible ZipperThis zipper has the teeth on the inside so there is no visible zipper on the outside. Mainly used in

womens dresses and skirts, sewn on the left side seam so it cannot be seen at all. It works well for fine

fabrics, as the zipper is more delicate than a regular zip.

Folded Edges

When a pattern piece is made with a folded edge the grain line is drawn in a different way, to show the

person cutting out the garment that the piece is on the fold. There are two different ways to draw this.

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Interfacing

Interfacing is a type of fabric that is used on the inside, generally ironed onto the fabric, to create afirmer stiff finish. It is used to hold the shape collars, waistline, armholes, necklines (with facings). It

is cut 3mm smaller around all sides of the pattern piece. There are different weights of interfacing, to

be used based on the weight of the fabric. Available is iron on and non iron on interfacing. Both work in

the same way, the iron on variety will make the fabric itself stiffer. If you are trying to create a stiff

form, i.e. a stand up stiff coat collar then use a very heavy interfacing (even if the fabric is lighter).

Alternatively you can hand baste canvas around the fabric to give it extra weight without stiffness. This

hand basting method is used in tailoring and gives a perfect finish to front facings and collars where you

need to make the garment more firm in these areas but without being stiff.

Pattern making steps = Block to Plan to Pattern

BLOCKS- these are basic styles made from measurements. They are used in industry as a base tocreate new designs. Blocks do not have seam or hem allowances. Blocks are made in the basic garment

categories:- Body blocks, trousers, jacket and coat blocks. Also different blocks are made for woven and

jersey fabrics (stretch fabrics). Blocks are the foundation of designs. Many designers will have a

multitude of blocks that they can choose from when designing a new garment. From a fitted shirt block,

to a loose casual style of shirt block. To design you select the block which best represents the silhouette

of your new design, fitted, loose etc. Trace around the block to create your plan.

PLANS- a plan is made by tracing round your block and adding your new design details. A plan is amap of your new style. Always keep the waistline or hipline aligned on the plan to ensure the length of

the front and back are the same. Some new design lines could overlap on the plan, using colouredhighlighter pens can make it easier for creating the pattern from the plan if the design is complex.

Plans are never cut up. They are used for reference in case there is any design or fitting issues once the

garment is made. Plans do not have seam or hem allowances. The BACK is always placed to the left of

the page, the front panel to the right. This enables the side seams to be next to each other for length

any design detailing. Written content on a plan consists of abbreviations and the grain lines and notch

marks.

PATTERNS- to make a pattern you trace off each individual garment piece adding on the seamallowances and hem allowance. Grain lines and notches are drawn on each pattern piece. Information

and notches on pattern pieces are very important for when you sew the garment together. Also adding

on the abreviations onto each pattern piece.

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Pattern making steps = Block to Plan to Pattern EXAMPLE

Start any new design by choosing the most suitable block for your new design.PLAN your design by tracing over the block, and marking all the new design details onto the plan.

PATTERN pieces are then taken from the plan individually and seam allowance added to each piece to

enable the design to be sewn together.

Example shows the front leg of a pair of jeans. The pattern for the front leg

is made up of 8 pieces.

Once your design is made, you can refer back to the plan to make

additional pairs of jeans, changing the design details, pocket placement

etc. This is the advantage of keeping plans, it means you do not have to

start again if a design works. On the other side, if there is a fitting issue, ora design detail that does not work, you can refer back to the plan and make

the changes, again the plan prevents you from going back to the beginning.

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2.Trousers

2. TROUSERS

Introduction

Mens trousers come in two predominant shapes.

The Jeans style and the Tailored Trousers style.

The construction of the back seam and crutch line is different for both designs.

Traditionally the tailored trouser style would be worn by men in offices who sit down a lot. The

crutch line is longer which not only makes more room at the back for sitting, but also more room for

the thigh (also for sitting down a lot). Tailored trousers always used to be made of wool and lined to

the knee. Wool is a more delicate fabric than denim cottons, which jeans are made of, and therefore

enough movement needs to be added for comfort when worn.

The jeans construction adds extra into the back seat line instead of the crutch line. This creates

shaping around the bottom allowing for sitting also. This method keeps the leg slimmer and the

trousers tighter around the thigh. Traditionally jeans would have been work wear and therefore more

standing than sitting. Denim fabric, predominantly used for jeans, is also a tough strong fabric which

would stretch slightly after many times of wear.

Construction of the trouser blocks shows 3 steps

Step 1 the basic construction,

Step 2 is jeans,

Step 3 is the tailored trousers.

The basic step 1 would not be used to make trousers and would always be adapted into the jeans or

tailored style as it does not have enough movement in it.

Modern trouser designs can use either the tailored or jeans construction method, and also adapt the

plan suit the design/customer.

Trousers Lengths

Mens trouser lengths are measured from the inside leg in inches.

Very short shorts 4 10cmShort (swimming shorts length) 8 20cm

Above the Knee (tailored shorts length 15 37.5cmOn the knee 17 42.5cmHigh Mid calf (cargo pants style) 24 60cmAnkle 34 85cm


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2.Trousers

Trousers Lengths

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2.Trousers

Trouser Block

A trouser block is the basic foundation of making trousers. It needs to have an opening, normallycentre front fly for menswear. Trousers also need to have a waist finish, either a waistband or a

facing on the inside. Mens trousers also tend to have belt loops sewn onto the waistline for a belt to

be passed through. Pockets are also common on mens trousers, from patch pockets to pockets in side

seams. The top of the basic block reaches the waistline on men (not the natural waistline which is

never used).

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2.Trousers

Trouser Block Construction

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2.Trousers

Trouser Block Construction

The trouser block construction INCLUDES the waistband in the block. This needs to be drawn on theplan when creating your own designs. Begin with mapping out the essential lines of construction for the

back and front leg. The Map.

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MAP

1 2 WL to Seat Line 20cm1 3 WL Crutch Line 28cm3 4 Crutch Line Knee Line

Half inside leg measurement42.5cm

4 5 Knee Line to hemline 42.5cm

1 6 Measurement is longer than crutch line 60cm6 7 WL to Seat Line 20cm6 - 8 WL Crutch Line 28cm8 - 9 Crutch Line Knee Line

Half inside leg measurement42.5cm

9 - 10 Knee Line to hemline 42.5cm

BACK

6 22 Centre Back crutch line 4cm22 23 Raise waistline by 1cm

Join 23 to 7 with a straight line

1cm

23 24 Quarter waistline plus dart,Waistline = 89cm +2cm ease = 91cm

= 22.75 + dart width = 1.5cm

24.25cm

24 25 Half way along waistline 12.1cm25 26 Dart length

Draw in dart line. 0.75cm to the left and right of thecentral position of the dart. Join to point 26.

8cm

8 - 27 One fifth of thigh measurement (59cm = 11.8cm)Two thirds on back crutch

7.8cm

9 28 Inside leg seam (back from line) 4cm10 29 Inside leg seam

Join 28 to 29 with a straight line** optional to reduce the hem width further for afitted ankle. Up to 8cm

4cm

28 30 One third inside leg measurement crutch line toknee line

14.1cm

27 31 Drop crutch line by 1cm 1cm30 31 Draw inside leg seam with a smooth curve

Measurement must be the same as the front leg,measure 21 to 17 and make the back leg the same(this is why the back crutch position is dropped by1cm (27-31)


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2.Trousers

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31 7 Draw centre back seam with a smooth curve. Keepcurve 4cm out from point 8

7 32 Quarter seat lineSeat Line 104cm +4cm easeJoin 24 to 32 with a smooth line

27cm

8 33 Crutch line Same as 7 32 27cm9 34 Knee width Same as 7 32 27cm10 35 Same as 7 32

Draw in outside leg seam, join 32 to 33, down to 34and 35 on the hemline

27cm

FRONT

1 11 Front seam line pointJoin 11 2 on the seat line

1cm

11 12 Quarter waist(Waist 89cm + 2cm ease = 91cm) 22.75cm

22.75cm

2 13 Quarter seat(Seat 104cm + 4cm ease = 108cm)Join waistline to seat line with a smooth curve(joining 12 to 13)

27cm

3 14 Crutch line, same measurement as 2-13 27cm

4 14 Knee line - Same measurement as 2-13 27cm5 16 Hemline - Same measurement as 2-13

Draw in straight side seam by joining 13 to 14,14 and16

27cm

3 17 One fifth of thigh measurement (60cm = 12cm)One third on front crutch(Two thirds on back crutch)

4cm

2 17 Join front seam line with a smooth curve4 18 Inside leg seam position in from line 4cm18 19 Inside leg position

Join 18 to 19 with a straight line** optional to reduce the hem width further for afitted ankle. Up to 8cm

4cm

18 20 Half inside leg measurement from Crutch line toKnee lineJoin 17 to 20 with a smooth curved line

21.25cm


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2.Trousers

Jeans

The jeans block has a more fitted trouser leg, which requires additional fabric placed into the centreback seam to enable you to sit down comfortably. The average amount added into the back seam is

3cm, but this depends on the size of the wearers bottom. There needs to be enough fabric so when

you sit down the top edge of the jeans does not drop down too far. Jeans are traditionally full of

details - pockets, yokes, belt loops, and topstitching details. A jeans style can however be made in any

fabric, including wool which is classified as being a tailoring fabric. Generally they are seen made of

casual cotton fabrics, denim, corduory, brushed cotton etc.

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2.Trousers

Jeans Block Construction

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2.Trousers

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Jeans Construction1 2 Raise the back seat line, raising the top of the trouser block (see

diagram)This allows extra around the bottom for sitting down, withoutmaking the crutch any bigger.

3cm

Smooth the centre back seam

Smooth the side seam at seat lineReduce waistline by 1cm

Plan

1 Draw a line for the waistband. 4cm down from WL, front andback leg.

2 Move the small back dart to the side seam (measure at thewaistband edge and remove this amount from the side seam,then do not use the dart in the leg.

3 Draw in back yoke 7cm at CB seam and 2cm at side seam4 Design back pocket, top edge is 2cm lower than yoke seam.5 Draw in front pocket position, 8cm down the side seam under

the waistband. Top position is half way along the waistline.6 Draw in the inner front pocket (right side only) Part of the

pocket is visible and part is hidden inside the pocket.7 Draw in front fly 3.5cm wide and finishes 2cm above the SL.

Curve at the bottom edge.8 Extend CF edge to draw the fly back, 3.5cm wide and the same

length as the fly front.9 Extend front waistband the width of the fly back.10 Draw in belt loop positions centre of front, on the front side

panel, centre of back panel and CB seam. 7 loops in total.


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Jeans Plan

2.Trousers

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2.Trousers

Pattern

1 Back waistband close the back dart when tracing off the waistband byjoining both sides of the dart together. CB seam is cut on fold so no seamallowance is added. 1cm seam around all other edges. Cut 2 on fold, onefor outside and one for the inside.

2 Back yoke add 1cm seam allowance around the top and side edge. CB andbody seam has 1.5cm seam allowance and is sewn as a flat felled seam. Cut2. Back yokes sometimes have lining on the inside for a nice finish.

3 Back pocket 1cm seam allowance and a 2cm double turn top edgeopening. Cut 2

4 Belt Loop is 4cm wide, folded in half then folded again and stitched. It hasa 2cm seam at the top and hem edges to fold over the waistband and sitlarger than the finished waistband to allow for a belt to go through. Belt

loops are sometimes topstitched onto the body and not caught into thewaist/body seam. Often seen with a buttonhole zig zag stitch. Cut 7 beltloops for the waistband.

5 Back leg cut 2. This is now without the yoke or waistband. Mark drill holesfor back pocket position. Inside leg is 1.5cm seam allowance and is a flatfelled seam, the same as the CB seam and top edge which is attached tothe yoke. The outside leg seam is 1cm seam allowance. Add 2cm hemallowance for a double turn finish

6 Front waistband right front has the extension of 3.5cm which will connectto the fly back. 1cm seam allowance around all edges. Cut 2

7 Left front waistband is cut 2 at the CF line. Add 1cm seam allowancearound all edges.

8 Back front pocket mark on drill holes for the inside pocket position. 1cmseam around all edges, cut 2

9 Front pocket lining normally made of cotton, add 1cm seam allowancearound all edges. Cut 2.

10 Front inside pocket add 1cm seam allowance and a 2cm double turn topedge opening. Cut 1 and sew to the right side pocket back.

11 Fly front add 1cm seam allowance around all edges. This is sewn into theleft front leg on the inside, cut 1

12 Fly back is cut 1 on the fold. 1cm seam allowance around all edges13 Front leg is cut 2. Add 1cm seam allowance on the outside leg, pocket

edge, top edge and CF. Add 1.5cm seam allowance for the inside leg whichis flat felled seam. 2cm hem which is 1cm double turn finish.

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2.Trousers

Jeans Pattern

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2.Trousers

Tailored Trousers

Tailored trouser blocks have an increased centre back crutch seam by lowering the crutchline and

extending the thigh measurement. An additional amount is added to the centre back waistline at the

top of the seam. This style of trousers is traditional for mens suits, where the leg and back crutch seam

are looser. Compared to jeans which are more fitted style of trousers.

Tailored trousers are generally made in wool and lined to the kneeline. Pockets are normally seen in

the side seam, with one or two back tailored jet pockets. The detailing on tailored trousers is minimal

compared to jeans style of trousers. This looser leg suits wool fabrics as there is more movement than

cottons which are used in the casual jeans style of fitting.

Documents

A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting by Tanya Dove