A Short Note on a Hindu Temple and a Sikh Gurdwara at Garhi Kapura (District Mardan)Sabika Batool, Ghayyur Shahab and Zafar Hayat Khan

Garhi Kapura village is situated in the eastern part of district Mardan (see fig.1), on its border with district Swabi. It is located about 12 kilometers east of Mardan city on Dobian road and 3.5 kilometers south of Shahbaz Garhi through Garhai Laar, where the famous edicts of Aoka are inscribed on a huge boulder. Sher Shah Suri road passes through the center (east to west) of this village that goes to the east towards river Indus through Yar-Hussain Dagai (Swabi). This road divides the village into two parts, such as, Daulatzai and Ismailzai and locals consider the road (route) originally constructed by the emperor Sher Shah Suri. Maqam (Bathkor) river flows in the center (north to south) of Garhi Kapura village which divides it into two halves, Kot and Garhi. The above mentioned four parts makes the village a combination of four small tribes, such as, Garhi Daulatzai, Garhi Ismailzai, Kot Daulatzai and Kot Ismailzai. There are other names of Garhi Kapura mentioned in different researches and reports. These are Kot Kapura (Raverty 1878: 247), Kapur-di-giri, Kapourdigarhi (Court 1836: 394), Langar Kot (Bellew 1891: 72) and Amazo Garhai (locally known). We do not know much about the historical background of this village but the evidences of early periods can be found at two places. One at Shahbaz Garhi where Asoka left his famous edicts, was once named after this village as Kapur-di-giri inscription (Wilson 1849). And the other is a Buddhist site located 500 meters east of the village, named as Karam Dheri (Ali, T. 2001: 76 & Ali, I. 2003: 162, 269). According to the locals once there were several monuments of the late historic period in Garhi Daulatzai portion of the village. Presently only one Hindu temple of the three, main gateway of Gordwara, a Jamat Khana and parts of the Hindu bazaar survive. All these monuments are located inside the thickly populated area around a radius of about 200 meters.

Hindu Temple of Garhi Kapura

The temple lies at latitude 3411'57.50" north and longitude 7209'51.13" east with an elevation of about 313 meters above the sea level. The exact date of construction is not known, however, it is comparable to the temples of Chakwal, Peshawar and Attock which are mainly dated to the late 19th or early 20th century. Garhi Kapura temple was once standing inside a complex which had an enclosure wall all-around with two main gateways to the complex one in the east and other in the west respectively, a gabagriha/sanctuary in the southwest, and probably other supporting buildings. The surviving buildings are consisted of a gabagriha, parts of the enclosure wall with one gateway, and evidences of the supporting building of the sanctuary in the southern enclosure wall. While the rest of the structures are collapsed and no such traces can be found except for about 2.5 meters debris inside the complex. The whole area is filled with garbage and the authors were helpless to find the exact ground level of the main temple and its complex. Parts of the enclosure wall survive in the west where an arched entrance is provided to the main street. The wall is depicted with a blind arch which is surmounted by a ventilator blocked with fence. On the left side of the ventilator a perforated screen is illustrated (see fig.8). An arched entrance is provided to the left side which has a wooden door (see fig.6).

Internal Features and Details

Internally the gabagriha is square in plan and measures six feet on each side. Doorway is provided to the east. Inside this doorway the frontal/western wall of the sanctuary was once adorned with three Hindu gods, with the main deity in the center, flanked by two figures on either side. Now only traces of the removal of these deities can be found (see fig.12). Internally the sanctuary is divided into four stages: stage one is square in plan considered as the sanctum, stage two is the zone of transition where corner squinches (see fig.13) are laid to convert the building into stage three that is the circular cylindrical drum, and stage four is the richly decorated domical ceiling (see fig.17).

The first square stage is about three meters in height where projected stylobate of double rows of bricks is provided to the base of five arched niches, adorned on the three sides except in the east. There are three recessed arched niches in the western wall in elongated shape to exhibit the deities, in which the central one is larger in size, in which the major deity once resided. It is flanked by two small arched niches, one on each side. In these the central arched niche is surmounted by a projected arched medallion in the shape of a niche where traces of an exhibit can be seen. On both the sides of this medallion one can find a projected eve that is decorated with inverted false merlons or leaves (see fig.12). Fourth arched niche is the true pointed arch that is provided in the northern wall which measures about 2 meters high and 4 feet wide. No traces of an exhibit can be seen on this side of the sanctuary. Fifth is the cusped arch niche that is provided to the southern wall which is 3 feet high and 2 feet wide (see fig.10). Here one can clearly find the traces of an exhibited deity. At the top left side of this niche stucco plaster is detached where a wooden beam is exposed that is decorated with a continuous band of carved floral motifs (see fig.11). On all the four sides this first square stage is separated from the second stage with the help of a projected bold leaf pattern design, in which the western one is a little different from the rest (see fig.13). The whole series is decorated with tassets or denticulates in its base, carved in inverted leaf pattern. Tassets were followed by two continuous bands painted in red and black colors, separating by a projecting white band. Cornice molding is provided to the top of this portion, over which a series of false merlons in leaf pattern/arched shape have been executed in bold relief which are projected outwards in the top. This whole series of leaves/merlons is decorated in light green color. While the western side of the cornice is adorned with acanthus leaf pattern in red and green colors (see fig.13).

The second stage is square at the base while its top is converted into round shape with the help of corner squinches. The corner squinches have a very unique mode of work. Each squinch is showing a rosette motif at the centre, where as on its both sides two branches emerging in oblique pattern, which are adorned with a parrot followed by a bud carved in high relief. These oblique branches meet at the centre of the wall and formed a type false arboreal arch (see fig.13). The shoulders of these arches have been placed over a kind of pedestal, which are four in number. The western side of this stage has a window in square shape which is blocked by a steel fence (see fig.15). This stage is topped by a regular series of false merlons/acanthus leaf pattern which separates second stage from the third. At the base of these leaves a bold projecting white band is running all around (see fig.13, 14, 15, 16).

Third stage is a conical cylindrical drum which is circular in plan. All sides have recessed shape equilateral arch openings blocked with steel fence (see fig.14) while the western side has a blind arch (see fig.16) in same design. A series of small projected leaves/false merlons is running on the sides and at the connecting base of all these arches (see fig.14, 16). The top of this portion is directly curved internally to form stage four of the building.

Stage four has a domical ceiling which is richly decorated with geometrical and floral motifs and the center is adorned with a shamsa design which has sun flower in center. A steel rod is hanging from the center of the dome. The dome is blackened by smoke where presently no colors can be seen (see fig.17). Internally the whole building is plastered with stucco and was richly decorated with different colors but now only few traces of these paintings can be seen because the building was white washed.

External Features and Details

Externally the temple is divided into two portions; the elongated rectangular body (see fig.3, 4, 5, 6) and the surmounted shikara dome (see fig.7). The elongated rectangular body is again divided into two parts; the doorway and decorated rectangular frames above it. The entrance is provided to the eastern side, made of segmental arch subdued by cusped arch and later both are enclosed in a double rectangular frame (see fig.9). On the top of the entrance, in the second stage, a cusped arch recessed panel has been created which is enclosed by a rectangular frame. The either sides of this frame are supported with the Corinthian pilasters. The shafts are tapering in shape and designed in fluted order. The capitals are carved with acanthus leaves in high relief. The inner surface of the recessed arch is classified into several square shaped panels, which are devoid of any decoration. Here the tympanum of the recessed cusped arch is provided with an oil lamp niche. Inside the classified panels another small pointed arch window is provided. The outer frame of the recessed cusped arch is surrounded by five oil lamps niches, two on the top both corners, two on the right and one to the left side (see fig.2). This side has no floral decorations. Northern side of the temple has almost similar decorations but instead of the doorway a false recessed cusped arch is provided. In the upper stage above it the fence is removed from arched window. Here three oil lamps niches are executed on the left side and one on the right side. All around the temple this section of the elongated rectangular body is surmounted by a boldly projected eave which separates it from the shikara dome (see fig.2).

On the western side the lower portion has no decorative work except for a fenced window in the top (see fig.6). The upper portion is intact which is richly decorated in stucco work. An elongated recessed cusped arch is executed which is framed by a rectangular panel. On the either side this panel is flanked by stylized Corinthian pilasters, as described above. Both the sides of the panel have projected decorative pedestals. The tympanum of this cusped arch has been added with embossed sunflower medallions. Furthermore the spandrels of cusped arch panel wrought with embossed sunflowers executed in similar gesture; however in the later case these flowers are smaller in size. Inside the arch a false door is accomplished (see fig.5). Both the corners of the temple have Corinthian pilasters, starting at the base and ends at the eve. The lower portion of these pilasters is executed with a plain shaft while in the middle a pitcher shaped base is provided to it (see fig.4, 5, 6). Above this pot acanthus leaves are provided to support the multi-faced shaft of the pilaster (see fig.5). The top, which supports the eve of the building, is again decorated in the same pattern discussed earlier.

Southern side is almost similar to the western side but a little difference can be seen in the decorative work (see fig.4). The lower portion is plain where the stucco plaster is completely removed. The upper portion is intact and showing lavish decoration. Here the recessed cusped arch is framed by a rectangular panel. Inside this recess arch another rectangular frame has been created around a false pointed arch. The outer sides of this arch are decorated with acanthus leaves executed in stucco and carved in high relief. In the upper part of the center of the arch a small square window is created that is blocked with a steel fence. Top left side of the pointed arch panel is showing a pointed arch oil lamp niche. To the either sides of the temple in the top corners two projected pedestals are added to place oil lamps. The tympanum of this inner pointed arch and that of the cusped arch panels have been added with embossed sunflower medallions, where the later is larger in size. The spandrels of cusped arch panel are also decorated with embossed sunflowers. Besides the above stated decorative elements and architectural components, these panels have been flanked on the either side by stylized Corinthian pilasters, as described above (see fig.3).

The temple is topped by a shikhara dome that is pyramidal in shape and decorated with probably small temple and mundapa models and surrounded with leaf pattern design above. The shikhara is topped by mahapadma in stucco and kalasha which is made of brass and the top of kalasha there is a small flag also made of brass (see fig.7).

The Sikh Gurdwara

Gurdwara lies at latitude 3411'56.87" north and longitude 7209'49.14" east with an elevation of about 313 meters above the sea level. It is located about 200 meters west of the Hindu temple, inside the main street. Only the doorway complex and parts of the enclosure wall of the building survived while the rest has been demolished (see fig.18). During the British Raj it was used as a gibbet while after the partition of Indo-Pakistan it was converted into Government Girls Middle School.

A vestibule is provided to the doorway which opens to the main street in the east. There are two rectangular frames provided in its outer faade, in which the right is larger in size to accommodate the entrance gate. These panels are divided by three round shafted pillars having conical pitcher shaped bases and square capitals which support the projected lintel (see fig.18). Above the main gate a rectangular panel is provided which is divided into three panels, the lower and upper panels depict Gurmukhi inscription while the middle sunken panel depicts Sikh insignia/symbol, Khanda (see fig.19). The Southern rectangular frame is blind and bears Gurmukhi inscription in its top (see fig.20).

Gurumukhi inscription depicted on the top of the left panel at southern wall (see fig.20) reads, Gurduvara Sri Gurr Singh Sabha Garrikpra. The name of the Gurdwara Sri Gurr Singh is mentioned with the name of the village Garri Kapra.

Gurumukhi inscription above the gate (see fig.19) in the top panel reads as ik onkr sat gr prasd sat sri akl and in the lower panel reads as ik onkr satnm sri vahigr ji. Translation of the first line reads as there is one God (creator) of all creation (and) God is the ultimate truth. Translation of the second line reads as there is one God (and) wonderful teacher (God) is the absolute truth.

Internally this vestibule opens to the main courtyard where it is made accessible through a trefoil arched entrance. The lower portion of the arch is blocked by a steel gate while the upper portion has a perforated screen. Above the arch a lintel is provided, in the center of this lintel a niche is executed where a pomegranate is depicted (see fig.21). According to the local people there had been a pillared hall which was decorated in red color and had a wooden ceiling.

Other Buildings of the Late Historic PeriodAt the east of the temple there was a residential area that was reported by the locals as once enclosed in an enclosure wall in which there were houses of the Hindus and Sikhs. Now only one house is standing which was the house of Kaimchand, a local Hindu merchant. In 1951 it was given to Garhi Kapura Civil Dispensary which is now closed. Agha Khan House is located 50 meters north of Gurdwara. It was constructed in 1857 and used as Jamat Khana, a religious place of Agha Khani faith. Now it is used as an ordinary house. Another house in the vicinity is named as Sikandar Mirza house which is still in use. It is believed by the locals that the last Governor-General and first President of Pakistan, Sikandar Mirza, owned this house. An old bazaar is located about 300 meters southeast of the temple which is named after the Hindu trading community that lived here before the partition. A series of several shops run on both sides of the street, which have veranda in its front. The pillars of the veranda have rectangular bases, round shafts and square capitals. The doors of the shops and the roof are provided in wood. Gateways are provided on both the ends of the bazaar. Each gate is supported by two columns. Each column has an octagonal shaft and domical capital.

Acknowledgement

We are extremely thankful to Atia Jamshed (from Garhi Kapura), M.Phil research scholar at the Department of Social Work, University of Peshawar, who informed us about the temple and gurdwara. Her brother, Sabir Khan, helped us to visit the temple by influencing the Head of Awqaf Department. We are also thankful to Dr. Muhammad Naeem Qazi for sparing his precious time to study the decorative elements of the Hindu Temple of Garhi Kapura for this research. This study would never have been possible without his academic support. We also want to extend our gratitude to Mr. Athwal, a Sikh from Amritsar India, who transcribed and translated the Gurumukhi inscriptions for this research.

Bibliographical References

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Ali, T. (2001). Archaeological Survey of District Mardan in the North West Frontier Province of Pakistan. Ancient Pakistan XIV: 55-172

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Iqbal, S. (2006). Preliminary Report on the Archaeological Survey of District Chakwal. Journal of Asian Civilization XXIX, No.2:

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Raverty, H. G. (1878). Notes on Afghanistan and Baluchistan.

Shah, I. (2008). A Short Survey of Hindu Temples in Peshawar. South Asian Studies 24, No.1: 119-132

Spooner, D. B. (rep. 1990). Annual Report on the Archaeological Survey of India (Frontier Circle) 1922-23

Wilson, H. H. (1849). On the Rock Inscription of Kapur-di-Giri, Dhauli, and Girnar.

Fig.1. Gandhara map showing location of Garhi Kapura. (Google Image)

Fig.2. Southern and eastern parts of the templeFig.3. Southern part of the temple

Fig.4. Western and southern parts of the templeFig.5. Western part of the temple

Fig.6. Western wall of the templeFig.7. Pyramidal dome of the temple

Fig.8. Parts of enclosure wallFig.9. Entrance to the sanctuary/gabagriha

Fig.10. False niche on the southern wall (internal)Fig.11. Decoration on the wooden beam of the niche

Fig.12. Exhibiting niches in the western wall (internal)Fig.13. Decorative bands and corner squinch

Fig.14. Arched window in the southern wallFig.15. Window in the western wall

Fig.16. Blind arch in the western wallFig.17. Domical ceiling of the temple

Fig.18. Gateway complex of the GurdwaraFig.19. Gurumukhi inscription and Khanda above gate

Fig.20. Gurumukhi inscription on the southern panelFig.21. Internal portion of the Gurdwara gateway

Mentioned with Shahbaz Garhi rock edicts of Asoka

Mentioned this place as ancient Caspatyrus, the capital of Gandarii at the time of Alexander invasions.

Iqbal 2005:160

Shah 2008

Reported by Kaur et al as Gurudwara Kot Kapura (1990: 86)