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www.wjpps.com Vol 10, Issue 11, 2021. ISO 9001:2015 Certified Journal 804 Varghese. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences A REVIEW ON: HAIR CARE WITH SOME MEDICINAL PLANTS Anju A. Varghese* Associate Professor, Department of Pharmacognosy, Pushpagiri College of Pharmacy, Thiruvalla. ABSTRACT Plants act as a source of food and medicine from long times. A wide range of plant oils are used in cosmetics and toiletry preparations. Hair is an important part of body, reflect personality of person. There are many cosmetics available for hair care. From long time plant materials are used for hair care. In this review, Indian medicinal plants having hare care properties are summarized in terms of their biological source, active constituents and biological activity. KEYWORDS: Hair care, Medicinal plants, Phytochemistry, Pharmacological activity. INTRODUCTION In traditional herbal medicine, plants have been used for many years. Therefore, plants have attained status of natural source of new and potent therapeutic agents. Medicinal plants are used as ethnomedicine in different countries around the world and are source of natural products providing unlimited opportunity for new drugs because of readily available medicinal diversity. [1,2,3] Natural products have many uses and purposes, including those linked to pharmaceutics and cosmetics. The parts used as well as the method of preparation and application of herbal products to the hair and scalp. As can be seen, oils alone or oil mixtures are the most used products and they are applied or rubbed directly onto the scalp. In addition, coconut oil, almond oil, olive oil and castor oil were used in most herbal products, not only as a vehicle but also because of its emollient effect and high nutritional value. This showed synergistic effects in most of the listed treatments such as: hair endings, damaged hair and hair loss. WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES SJIF Impact Factor 7.632 Volume 10, Issue 11, 804-815 Review Article ISSN 2278 – 4357 *Corresponding Author Prof. Anju A. Varghese Associate Professor, Department of Pharmacognosy, Pushpagiri College of Pharmacy, Thiruvalla. Article Received on 16 Sept. 2021, Revised on 06 October 2021, Accepted on 26 October 2021 DOI: 10.20959/wjpps202111-20544

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Page 1: A REVIEW ON: HAIR CARE WITH SOME MEDICINAL PLANTS

www.wjpps.com │ Vol 10, Issue 11, 2021. │ ISO 9001:2015 Certified Journal │

804

Varghese. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

A REVIEW ON: HAIR CARE WITH SOME MEDICINAL PLANTS

Anju A. Varghese*

Associate Professor, Department of Pharmacognosy, Pushpagiri College of

Pharmacy, Thiruvalla.

ABSTRACT

Plants act as a source of food and medicine from long times. A wide

range of plant oils are used in cosmetics and toiletry preparations. Hair

is an important part of body, reflect personality of person. There are

many cosmetics available for hair care. From long time plant materials

are used for hair care. In this review, Indian medicinal plants having

hare care properties are summarized in terms of their biological source,

active constituents and biological activity.

KEYWORDS: Hair care, Medicinal plants, Phytochemistry,

Pharmacological activity.

INTRODUCTION

In traditional herbal medicine, plants have been used for many years. Therefore, plants have

attained status of natural source of new and potent therapeutic agents. Medicinal plants are

used as ethnomedicine in different countries around the world and are source of natural

products providing unlimited opportunity for new drugs because of readily available

medicinal diversity.[1,2,3]

Natural products have many uses and purposes, including those linked to pharmaceutics and

cosmetics. The parts used as well as the method of preparation and application of herbal

products to the hair and scalp. As can be seen, oils alone or oil mixtures are the most used

products and they are applied or rubbed directly onto the scalp. In addition, coconut oil,

almond oil, olive oil and castor oil were used in most herbal products, not only as a vehicle

but also because of its emollient effect and high nutritional value. This showed synergistic

effects in most of the listed treatments such as: hair endings, damaged hair and hair loss.

WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES

SJIF Impact Factor 7.632

Volume 10, Issue 11, 804-815 Review Article ISSN 2278 – 4357

*Corresponding Author

Prof. Anju A. Varghese

Associate Professor,

Department of

Pharmacognosy, Pushpagiri

College of Pharmacy,

Thiruvalla.

Article Received on

16 Sept. 2021,

Revised on 06 October 2021,

Accepted on 26 October 2021

DOI: 10.20959/wjpps202111-20544

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These oils showed synergistic effects in most of the reported treatments, especially in the

treatment of split hair endings, hair loss and the use of hair conditioners.

Regarding products obtained from mineral or animal sources, the most frequently used

methods in the use of these products were by mixing them with other natural products such

as: eggs, honey or olive oil. Olive oil was again used as a vehicle but to a lesser extent than in

herbal products. However, the egg was used about 50% of the animal and mineral products.

This may be explained due to its high lecithin content and nutritional value.

Cosmetic preparations used for the: colouring or lightening of hair, prevention of hair loss or

the treatment of scabies, have been included in our study. Most of the plant ingredients

(Anthemis cotula, Rosa canina, Simmondsia chinensis, Lavandula coronopifolia, and Prunus

dulcis) are also used today in modern Phyto-cosmetics, whilst a few ingredients (Citrullus

colocynthis, Abelmoschus esculentus and Aegle marmelos) are less known nowadays, for

cosmetic purposes. This usually involves the lightening or colouring to shade of blond hair,

which is considered a synonym of beauty. The use of chamomile pastes, apple vinegar, and

lemon juice indicates a new trend in the cultural concepts of aesthetics, which has been

emphasized in recent years. Nowadays, in fact, blond hair altered by cosmetic products, is

normally considered a sign of beauty in many countries. Therefore, many women are willing

to add and use any natural additives to enhance the performance of certain hair dyes such as

Henna and Chamomile.

Many reported formulations have been are still being used to enhance the appearance of hair:

lightening and colouring, prevention of hair loss and to combat scabies. Less is known about

the Phyto-pharmacology of the ingredients used in these preparations, they often had an

emollient rule and were thought to optimize and restore the functions of the scalp and

appendices, which are highly affected by a lifestyle characterized by hard daily activities.

This group of remedies comprises onions, honey, eggs, aloe, fish oil, mustard, rosemary,

pomegranate and even milk. A few of these species are in fact medicinal plants and it is well-

known in the modern evidence-based European and also Mediterranean and Arab

phytotherapy herbal treatise of the past five centuries.[4]

The methods used in the preparation of these herbal products consisted of the mixing of more

than one natural product together followed by the direct application of this mixed product to

the hair or scalp. This method, however, may result in low compliance as these products are

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often oily or have bad organoleptic properties, making them difficult to be clean without the

use of strong detergents, which may possible and have a detrimental effect on the hair and

scalp. The hair loss was the most common hair disorder treated with natural products

including herbal, mineral or/and plant remedies. This was then followed by hair ending

damage, dandruff, hair conditioners and lice whilst scabies was the least common disorder.

Finally, most of the reported natural products are edible herb, mineral or animal products

such as honey, eggs and milk derivatives.

This study is of great importance as it helps to preserve and improve the knowledge of herbal,

mineral and animal products used as cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals, for hair and scalp

disorders, by women.

Hibiscus rosasinensis, Aloe barbadensis, Lawsonia inermis, Olea europaea, Lawsonia

inermis, Ricinus communis, Allium sativum, Aloe vera, Cocos nucifera, Trigonella

arabica, Prunus dulcis, Citrus limon, Pimpinella anisum, Punica granatum and Sesamum

indicum are the most frequently used plants as home remedies for the treatments of the hair

and scalp.[5]

Hairs can be defined as -"improved epithelial structure formed as a result of keratinization of

germinative cells," hairs are the outgrowths from the follicles existing on the skin. Hair is

composed of keratin with chemical constituents such as Carbon(C), Nitrogen (N), Sulfur (S),

& Oxygen (O). Hair growth varies from person to person but on average hair grows about 15-

30 mm/ month.

Hairs are two types

1. Vellus hair.

2. Terminal hair

Vellus hairs are fine, light coloured and straight. Terminal hair are thicker dark and may be

curly and on the region of eyelashes and eyebrows. 70-100 hairs loss a day is very common

however, dropping over 100 hairs a day lasting longer than a couple of week indicates a

serious problem.

Herbal drug used internally as well as externally used hair growth to prevent premature

greyish or hair loss. The claim of better growth of hair and diminution in loss of hair.

Alopecia is one of the major problems amongst urban people to subjection to stress

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environmental problems etc. The various types of allopathic drugs are here to treat hair loss

but they have many side effects. Herbs are starting material for any medicinal research.

Approximately about 80% residents recommended herbal drugs for their beneficial effects

along with fewer side effects as compared synthetic drugs.

Alopecia, a dermatological disorder that has been recognized for more than 2000 years is a

common problem in cosmetic as well as primary health care practices. It is a common

throughout the world and has been estimated to affect between 0.2% and 2% of the world

population. Various synthetic medicines are available for hair loss which does not treat

permanently and also shows severe side effects. These problems could be solved by the use

of herbal medicines.

Ayurveda has described hair diseases in three words,

1. Indralupta means alopecia

2. Khalitya means loss of hair

3. Palitya means premature hair graying

The herbs used in the treatment of hair loss provide,

Nutritional support

Minerals such as calcium, copper, chromium, iodine, zinc, and magnesium are necessary to

maintain healthy hair growth. Mineral deficiency will reduce the chance to regulate the blood

circulation that promotes healthy hair growth and thyroid hormones that prevent dry hair and

hair loss as well as defects in hair colour. Too much iron is toxic to your body. Be sure to talk

to your doctor before taking any mineral supplement. B vitamins (especially B6, B3, B5 and

folic acid), biotin, anti-oxidant, sources of biotin are: whole grains, egg yolks, liver, rice and

milk. Vitamin A is important for over-all good health. It is also beneficial to hair follicles, as

it keeps the hair root lubricated. Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant that aids real circulation in

the scalp due to increased oxygen uptake in blood, therefore it plays an important role in

promoting hair growth and preventing hair loss. Coenzyme Q10 (CQ-10) is an essential

vitamin that provides our body with the nutrient needed to grow healthy hair. They also

promote overall vitality, and contribute to beautiful skin and strong nails. Yogurt, soya, dark

green vegetable, whole grain products, essential fatty acid, nuts and seedier fatty foods which

are typically the best sources of vitamin E, an immune enhancing antioxidant and nerve

protector. Carrots contain high amounts of vitamin A. It is an antioxidant that helps produce

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healthy sebum in the scalp. Having too much vitamin A can led to hair loss. There are many

other foods that help promote hair growth and prevent hair loss, such as fruits, egg, spinach,

and broccoli.[6]

Some herbs used for hair care are,

Hibiscus rosasinensis

The botanical name of hibiscus is Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. It is an evergreen shrub belonging

to the cotton family Malvaceae.

Fig. 1: Hibiscus rosasinensis.

The herb hibiscus is native to China. Many species of Hibiscus are grown for their showy

flowers. It is a shrub widely cultivated in the tropics as an ornamental plant and has several

forms with varying colours of flowers. Hibiscus has also medicinal properties and takes part

as a primary ingredient in many herbal teas. The red flowered variety is preferred in

medicine.

Phytochemistry

Phytochemical analysis documented that the main bioactive compounds responsible for its

medicinal effects are namely flavonoids, tannins, terpenoids, saponins, and alkaloids,

proanthocyanin. It has been also reported that it contains majorly anthocyanins and

flavonoids; cyanidin-3, 5-diglucoside, cyanidin-3-sophoroside-5-glucoside, quercetin-3,7-

diglucoside, quercetin-3-diglucoside. The other compounds are also present like

cyclopeptide alkaloid, cyanidin chloride, quercetin, hentriacontane and vitamins: riboflavin,

ascorbic acid and thiamine. The leaves and stems contain β-sitosterol, stigmasterol, taraxeryl

acetate and three cyclopropane compounds and their derivatives. The Hibiscus flowers

contain cyanidin diglucoside, flavonoids and vitamins, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin and

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ascorbic acid. H. rosa sinensis extract is a source of many potentially active antioxidants and

anticancer constituents such as quercetin, glycosides, riboflavin, niacin, carotene, malvalic

acid gentisic acid, margaric acid and lauric acid.[7]

Various parts of this plant, like leaves,

flowers and roots, have been known to possess medicinal properties like antigreying,

epilepsy, leprosy, bronchial catarrh and diabetes. Bacterial infection plays a vital role leading

to many of the pathological conditions where extracts of H. Rosa-sinensis extracts have been

used as a traditional medication. One such study of confirmed this antibacterial activity in

vitro as well as the wound-healing activity of the ethanol extracts of H. rosa-sinensis flowers

in vivo.[8]

Experiment from recent studies showed that various types of extracts from all H. rosa

sinensis parts exhibited a wide range of beneficial effects such as hypotensive, anti-pyritic,

anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, antioxidant, anti-bacterial, anti-diabetic, wound healing, and

abortifacient activities. The few studies on toxicity exhibited that most extracts from all parts

of this plant did not show any signs of toxicity at higher doses according to histological

analysis.[9]

Pharmacological activity

Its leaves, barks, roots and flowers have been used in the Indian traditional system as

medicine to treat various diseases. Various research studies proved that the different parts of

Hibiscus rosa sinensis plants possesses antioxidant, antimicrobial, antidiabetic, antiulcer,

hepatoprotective, antifertility, antigenotoxic and anti-inflammatory properties which help in

treatment of many diseases. Hibiscus rosa sinensis has been used in many herbal mix and

drinks. Many research studies conducted in animal modal evaluate Hibiscus rosa sinensis

flowers and leaves as antidiabetic and antioxidant compounds. This review attempt to

highlight the therapeutic application of Hibiscus rosa sinensis. The traditional healers

primarily use water as the solvent. Such identification and characterization of these

metabolites along with their antimicrobial activity exhibited is significant.[7]

Aloe barbadensis

The botanical name of aloe vera is Aloe barbadensis miller., belonging to the family

Liliaceae.

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Fig. 2: Aloe barbadensis.

It is a shrubby or arborescent, perennial, xerophytic, succulent, pea- green colour plant.[10]

The plant has triangular, fleshy leaves with serrated edges, yellow tubular flowers and fruits

that contain numerous seeds. Each leaf is composed of three layers:

1) An inner clear gel that contains 99% water and rest is made of glucomannans, amino

acids, lipids, sterols and vitamins.

2) The middle layer of latex which is the bitter yellow sap and contains anthraquinones and

glycosides.

3) The outer thick layer of 15–20 cells called as rind which has protective function and

synthesizes carbohydrates and proteins. Inside the rind are vascular bundles responsible

for transportation of substances such as water (xylem) and starch (phloem).[11]

Phytochemistry

Aloe vera contains more than 75 different compounds, including vitamins (vitamin A, C, E,

and B12), enzymes (i.e., amylase, catalase, and peroxidase), minerals (i.e., zinc, copper,

selenium, and calcium), sugars (monosaccharides such as mannose-6-phosphate and

polysaccharides such as glucomannans), anthraquinones (aloin and emodin), fatty acids (i.e.,

lupeol and campesterol), hormones (auxins and gibberellins), and others (i.e., salicylic acid,

lignin, and saponins).[13,14,15]

Aloe Vera contains an array of materials, including the following: Acids - antimicrobial, anti-

helminithic (anti-parasitic worms). Amino acids - required for repair and growth. Aloe Vera

contains around eighteen amino acids. Enzymes - catalysts enabling chemical reactions to

take place.

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Lectins - Anti-tumour effects. Lipids - principle structural components of living cells.

Minerals - Calcium, magnesium, potassium and sodium are all present in significant

quantities. Lactates and salicylates - analgesic properties. Phenolics - mild antiseptics and

antimicrobials. Polysaccharides –Stimulate skin growth and repair. Vitamins - contains 8 of

the 13 recognized vitamins. Aloe latex contains compounds known as anthraquinones that

stimulate the activity of the gastrointestinal tract.[16]

Pharmacological activity

The most investigated active compounds are aloe-emodin, aloin, aloesin, emodin. Likewise,

new actions have been investigated for Aloe vera and its active compounds. The colorless

mucilaginous gel from Aloe vera leaves has been extensively used with pharmacological and

cosmetic applications. Traditionally, this medicinal plant has been employed to treat skin

problems (burns, wounds, and anti-inflammatory processes). Moreover, Aloe vera has shown

other therapeutic properties including anticancer, antioxidant, antidiabetic, and

antihyperlipidemic. Aloe vera contains more than 75 different compounds, including vitamins

(vitamin A, C, E, and B12), enzymes (i.e., amylase, catalase, and peroxidase), minerals (i.e.,

zinc, copper, selenium, and calcium), sugars (monosaccharides such as mannose-6-phosphate

and polysaccharides such as glucomannans), anthraquinones (aloin and emodin), fatty acids

(i.e., lupeol and campesterol), hormones (auxins and gibberellins), and others (i.e., salicylic

acid, lignin, and saponins). [13,14,15]

Lawsonia inermis

The botanical name of henna is Lawsonia inermis, belonging to the family Lythraceae.

Fig. 3: Lawsonia inermis.

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It grows in wild and cultivated as garden plant throughout India. Henna leaves are the part of

plant that is used in hair formulations. Leaves mainly contain lawsone (quinone) dissolve in

basic pH to give dark intense orange colour. Henna leaves have been used from ancient time

as a hair colour due to the chemical interaction of lawsone (thiol group) to the keratin.[17]

Phytochemistry

Leaves: 2-Hydroxy-1, 4-napthoquinone (HNQ; Lawsone) is the principle natural dye

contained at 1.0 -1.4 % in the leaves of Henna. Other related compounds present in the leaves

are: 1, 4dihydro xynaphthalene.1,4-naphthoquinone, 1,2-dihydroxy glucoyloxy naphthalene

and 2-hydroxy-1,4-diglucosyloxy naphthalene. Flavonoids (luteolins, apigenin, and their

glycosides). Coumarins (esculetin, fraxetin, scopletin). Steroids (β-sitosterol). The leaves of

Lawsonia inermis also reported to contain soluble matter tannin, gallic acid, glucose,

mannitol, fat, resin and mucilage. Bark: Bark contains napthoquinone, isoplumbagin,

triterpenoids, Hennadiol, aliphatics (3-methyl nonacosan-1-ol). Flower: Flowers on steam

distillation gave an essential oil (0.02 %) rich in ionones (90 %) in which β-ionones

predominated. Root: Aqueous root extract of L. inermis contains alkaloids, saponins, steroids,

cardiac glycosides, flavonoids, tannins and reducing sugars.[18]

Pharmacological activity

The ethanolic extract of leaves of Lawsonia showed significant analgesic as well as

antipyretic activity. Methanol extract of Lawsonia inermis flowers showed a good anti-

inflammatory activity against 5-Lipoxygenase. It may be interpreted that the greatest anti-

inflammatory activity was due to the high amounts of total phenolic compounds.

Isoplumbagin and lawsaritol, isolated from stem bark and root of L. inermis screened for anti-

inflammatory activity against carrageenan induced paw edema in rats.

Aqueous and ethanolic leaf extract demonstrated anti-arthritic activity, as reflected by a

reduction in paw oedema, paw diameter and body weight loss in both Freund's adjuvant-

induced and formaldehyde-induced arthritis mice models. Aqueous, ethanol and chloroform

leaf extracts showed a strong anti-ulcer activity in pylorus ligation- and aspirin-induced rats

when compared to ranitidine.

Ethanolic extract of Lawsonia leaves were investigated for antimicrobial property using Agar

well diffusion method. Antioxidant, antibacterial activities and phytotoxic potentials of

commonly commercialized henna’s dried leaves (HL) and processed powder (HP) were

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investigated and the antimicrobial potential evaluated. L. inermis is a potential antimalarial

drug, having high in vitro and in vivo antiplasmodial activity.

Antibacterial activity of aqueous, ethanol, methanol, ethyl acetate and chloroform extracts of

Lawsonia inermis leaves were tested against reference bacterial strains. The antitumour

activity of L. inermis leaf extract was studied on 7,12-dimethylbenzanthracene (DMBA)

induced 2-stage skin carcinogenesis and B16F10 melanoma tumour model using swiss albino

mice. The aqueous extract of Lawsonia inermis was administered orally to the rats with

hepatotoxicity induced by paracetamol. Aqueous and ethanolic extracts of Lawsonia inermis

leaves showed diuretic activity. Lawsone and its oxazine derivatives isolated from leaves of

L. inermis had proven to be potential anticoagulant agent.

Ethanolic extract of henna leaves and lawsone exhibited significant wound healing activity on

rat excision and incision wound models. Methanol extract of henna leaves at 1 mg/ml

concentration had displayed immunostimulant action as indicated by promotion of T-

lymphocyte proliferative responses. Ethanolic extract prepared from the powdered seeds of L.

inermis failed to show significant antifertility activity.

The tuberculostatic activity of henna was tested in-vitro and in-vivo using Lowenstein Jensen

medium, the growth of Tubercle bacilli. Methanolic extract of Lawsonia Inermis bark showed

cytotoxicity activity when exposed to lymphocyte cells. The chloroform extract of Lawsonia

inermis flowers exhibited a higher tannins content.

Methanol extract of roots of L. inermis was most effective in inducing abortion in mice, rats

and guinea pig. Ethanolic extract of the plant tissues was evaluated in-vitro for protein

glycation inhibitory activity using the model system of bovine serum albumin and glucose.

The effect of aqueous extract of Lawsonia inermis seeds was carried out to study the acute

and sub-chronic toxicological effects on rats.

Lawsonia inermis is not only a colouring agent, but a universal herbal medicine with diverse

pharmacological activity spectrum. This versatile medicinal plant is the unique source of

various types of chemical compounds, which are responsible of the various activities of the

plant. Although crude extracts from leaves of plant have medicinal applications from time

immemorial, modern drugs can be developed after extensive investigation of its bioactivity,

mechanism of action, pharmacotherapeutics and toxicity after proper standardization and

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clinical trials. At present the global scenario is changing towards the use of non-toxic plant

products having traditional medicinal use, development of modern drugs from L. inermis

should be emphasized for the control of various diseases.[18]

CONCLUSION

Different plant species are currently being used by herbalists and traditional practitioner

healers, for the treatment of various types of medical conditions. The first study that assesses

the usage of these natural products as cosmetics or cosmeceuticals for hair and scalp

disorders and afflictions. Moreover, this study is of great importance as it improves our

understanding of the folkloric use of these natural products. A combined scientific effort

between informants and the scientific community, working in this field, may help in the

discovery of new cosmetics, cosmeceutical and nutraceutical products. The various types of

allopathic drugs to treat hair loss but they have many side effects. Herbs are starting material

for any medication research. Approximately about 80% residents recommended herbal drugs

for their beneficial effects along with fewer side effects as compared synthetic drugs.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I thank Dr Santhosh M Mathews, Principal, Pushpagiri College of Pharmacy (Kerala

University of Health Sciences), Thiruvalla, Mrs. Preethu P John (Assistant Professor,

Department of Pharmacology, Pushpagiri College of Pharmacy, Thiruvalla) and all the other

faculties of Pushpagiri College of Pharmacy for their continuous support and encouragement.

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