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Page 1:  · a relaxing spa treatment at The Over Water Spa. It is certainly safe to say that it epitomises barefoot luxury, with glass-floored treatment rooms set on stilts above a coral
Page 2:  · a relaxing spa treatment at The Over Water Spa. It is certainly safe to say that it epitomises barefoot luxury, with glass-floored treatment rooms set on stilts above a coral

2 www.viestramagazine.com www.viestramagazine.com 3

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48. CULTURAL HIGHLIGHT

58. STYLE

66. 36 HOURS IN NEW YORK

84. HOLIDAY & TRAVEL DIRECTORY

52. TOP 7 BEACHES TRAVEL

62. TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

70. WEEKENDS AWAY UK

6. WORLDWIDE TRAVEL

CONTENTS

64. THE ACTIVE CHOICE

82 3 NOT TO MISS

56. EDITOR’S CHOICE

33. DESTINATION EUROPE

HELLO TRAVELLERSThank you for picking up a copy of VIESTRA, we’re sure you’ll enjoy the read and hopefully get inspired to see the sun rise and set somewhere different in the world.

We’ve been developing the website, viestramagazine.com, for the best part of 2017; preparing our vision for the magazine, engaging with writers to bring great editorial and content to fruition, and visiting some amazing places here in the UK and abroad.

It’s been a long road with a few obstacles along the way, but we’ve absolutely loved putting VIESTRA together, meeting new people and working with an array of contributors.

This issue is a promotional edition showcasing our drive to grow the publication in its print and digital formats, and deliver bespoke quality content highlighting some of the best places to visit around our glorious planet.

I’d like to thank our advertisers for showing us great support.

At a time where the world seems a pretty dangerous place, be safe in your travels and don’t let any-thing stop you - travel broadens the mind they say, encouraging tolerance, understanding, apprecia-tion and above all, love for humankind and this rock we call home. Earth is truly wonderful.

Be well, Katie.x.

Editor: Katie Saunders

Senior Features Editor: Alex Holman

Features Editor: Rob Tindall

Publisher: Paul Williams

PR/Marketing: Shepherd PR

Advertising Sales Manager: Annmarie Frankland

Business Development Manager: Amita Shankar

Design Manager: Catherine Clarke

Designer: Paul Williams

Web design and content production: Paul Williams

Contributing writers: Sophie Coughlan, Carmel Thomason, Scott McDonough, Francesca Baker, Emily Roberts, Geoff Moore, Maggie Oliver, Lorraine Wilson.

Contact: Advertising and Editorial call 020 3623 0567.

© PWR Media, Unit 22, 295 Chiswick High Road, London W4 4HH. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without permis-sion is strictly forbidden.

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MALDIVES

“Welcome to paradise!” The first words said to me at Male International airport, and if I had to sum up my

seven night stay at two wonderfully different but equally fantastic Maldivian hotels, Mirihi Island and Conrad Maldives Rangali Island, it really would be paradise.

Beautiful white sand beaches, crystal clear water and near perfect weather to match, there almost aren’t words to

sum up how truly spectacular this place is – but I’m going to do my best!

WORDS: ALEXANDRA HOLMAN

EXPERIENCE THE CLICHE... PARADISE ON EARTH

WORLDWIDE TRAVEL

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The resort comprises of two islands, with some of the most breath-taking oceanic views in the Maldives. With the opportunity to spot dolphins on the

way, the resort really is the wow factor from start to finish.

If you have never been to the Maldives, I highly recommend booking a window seat for your flight. The view of hundreds of tadpole-like islands appearing beneath you as you come in to land is unforgettable.

After a short stopover, I climbed aboard a sea plane for the last leg of the journey. Looking out from the window, school upon school of dolphins could be seen – it was quite spectacular!

Mirihi Island, I had read, has only 30 villas and is a haven of peace and tranquillity. Nothing could be more true. The second I arrived my bags were whisked away, a refreshing drink placed in my hand and my shoes handed over – “we will take these to your room for you, please feel welcome to remain barefoot throughout the duration of your stay”’ intoned a charming member of the team.

The moment you step onto Mirihi Island, all the travel weariness melts away. It has a comforting charm about it that immediately lulls you into a sense of deep relaxation.

I spent my first afternoon exclaiming at the beauty of the views from my over water villa, jumping straight from my deck into a myriad of fish below, and snorkelling with the dive team where, amongst an abundance of fish and coral in every colour imaginable, we spotted turtles, reef sharks and peculiar sea cucumbers!

Following an indulgent nine plate tapas and wine tasting, the sound of the sea lapping against the shore is enough to lull even the lightest of sleepers into a wonderfully deep sleep.

The next day I set out on the adventure of a lifetime – a chance to swim with the majestic whale shark.

Whale sharks, though daunting in terms of size, are harmless to humans, feeding mainly on plankton and small fish and moving at an average of just three miles per hour.

About two hours into our blissful sailing trip we spotted the Maldives’ largest sea inhabitant and without a second thought, leaped into the deep water.

Snorkelling alongside these gentle giants is a breath-taking and humbling experience. They are extremely friendly and seem not to mind humans, swimming nail-bitingly close to you.

Buzzing with adrenaline we enjoyed a pleasant sail back to the hotel where a delicious feast and accompanying cocktails awaited for my second and final night at this slice of utopia.

The following morning I was to embark upon a speedy boat trip to my new paradise, Conrad Maldives Rangali Island.

The resort comprises of two islands, with some of the most breath-taking oceanic views in the Maldives. With the opportunity to spot dolphins on the way, the resort really is the wow factor from start to finish.

I was fortunate enough to have the luxury of staying in a Water Villa on Rangali Island, which as the name suggests, is situated just off the beach in the ocean – truly spectacular, and offering ultimate privacy and exclusivity. There are also Beach Villas on the main hub of Rangalifinolhu Island, which are perfect for families.

One of the best aspects of my stay was the resort’s extended list of 1, 3 and 5 hour itineraries which are part of the Stay Inspired Initiative. I opted for the three hour private snorkelling excursion (more than once!). The dive team were fantastic and a complete fountain of knowledge about local marine life and environment. Had my trip been longer, I would have definitely gone island hoping, one of the five hour options.

All that swimming built up an appetite and there’s no shortage of dining options at Conrad Maldives. On one occasion whilst chatting with one of the bar staff, he mentioned that this summer guests will be able to enjoy an imaginative new cocktail menu, designed by world renowned

mixologist Grant Collins.

Taking inspiration from his childhood memories, the menus feature a playful assortment of cocktails with ingredients sourced from the resort’s organic hydroponic garden; I was almost tempted to book my trip back there and then!

Set on stilts in the lagoon, Mandhoo Spa Restaurant was a first night treat. Based on the five elements of air, water, fire, earth and plant, I was reliably informed that the menu has been designed using organic ingredients, to energise, nourish, detoxify, relax and fortify the body.

However, what I was most excited about was Ithaa, the undersea restaurant. As the Maldives’ most iconic restaurant I’d heard a lot about it, and was so excited to taste its gourmet menu. Eating 16 feet below the ocean with 180° views of marine life through the restaurant’s glass walls and arched glass roof was absolutely breath-taking.

On my last day at the resort, I opted for a relaxing spa treatment at The Over Water Spa. It is certainly safe to say that it epitomises barefoot luxury, with glass-floored treatment rooms set on stilts above a coral reef in the resort’s lagoon. It was the perfect finish to my week in Paradise. Rates at Conrad Maldives start from £710 on a B&B basis per room per night staying in a beach villa (+960 668-0629;www.conradhotels3.hilton.com/Maldives)

Nightly rates start from $650 per villa, on a half-board basis, based on two people sharing. For more information or to make a reservation visit www.mirihi.com or call +960 668 0500 or email [email protected]

WORLDWIDE TRAVEL WORLDWIDE TRAVEL

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BE MY BALIVoted No.1 destination in the world by Trip Advisor’s Travellers’ Choice Awards 2017, Emily Roberts heads to Bali as a first-time

visitor to get a feel for the Indonesian island topping the travel charts

WORDS: EMILY ROBERTSFIRST TIME VISITOR EMILY ROBERTS GETS A FEEL FOR THE INDONESIAN ISLAND

“First time in Bali?” asked Adi, tucking a ‘Miss Emily’ welcome sign under his arm, offering me a bottle of ice cold water and zipping off with my bags. “Yes, it is” I replied as I followed him, dodging my way through a sea of flapping signs waiting to greet arriving holiday-makers. Why had I not visited this popular Indonesian island before? I’d snobbishly snubbed the Asian isle as being ‘far too touristy for my liking’.

But I’d taken the plunge and decided to see for myself what the Island of a Thousand Temples was all about. My mission: to hide from the hordes, seek a secluded place to stay and venture beyond the tourist resorts. With beaches and bars banned and my guidebook tucked away on the bookshelf at home, this trip was to explore, experience and most of all ‘go local’ – leaving Kuta and Seminyak to the revellers.

The welcoming nature of the Balinese, the age-old traditions and tasty food make this Indonesian island a firm favourite with holiday-makers and I was off on my adventure to discover the island as a first-time visitor. I had only three days to experience the best of Bali.

Within minutes of arrival I was en route to Villa Dari Indera – my Balinese retreat. Weaving our way through the busy capital’s chaotic traffic, we were bound for the regency of Tabanan, located in the southern part of the island. Somewhere hidden here in the rural village of Pandak Gede far from the nightlife of Nusa Dua, I would find my oasis. “In one hour we will be at Villa Dari Indera” Adi informed me.

We soon left the bustling city streets, and making our way along numerous small roads I began to feel a sense of remoteness. As my driver had advised, 57 minutes later we bumped along an unmade track, referred to as a ‘gang’, to what felt like the middle of nowhere. “Welcome to Villa Dari Indera” beamed Adi, as the gates opened to reveal my home for the next three nights.

“Selamat malam” chorused the six villa staff poised in the wai position. This customary greeting - palms pressed together ‘prayer-like’ with a slight bow - is known as namaste in other parts of Asia. A small and simple white flower with a sweet fragrance was tucked behind my ear. Considered sacred, the melati putih flower symbolizes “purity, sacredness, simplicity, sincerity and modesty” said Made the villa manager. Guiding me around the villa, built in the traditional Balinese style of ‘indoor outdoor’ living she introduced me to the team who would care for me over the next

WORLDWIDE TRAVEL

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few days.

A large open-plan lounge and dining area opened up to a huge wooden deck bordering the swimming pool set in lush tropical gardens. As instantly as Made and her team had appeared, they discreetly disappeared. Left alone, lying on the poolside decking I stared up at the black velvet sky, listening to the courtship call of cicadas.

Woken by makan at sunrise, the ritual ‘grubs up’ call, I was on the road early with Adi, my guide and chauffeur. First stop on my cultural tour of the Island of the Gods was to attempt the centuries-old tradition of Batik (pronounced ba-teek). “But not in Ubud” said Adi, “that’s where all the other tourists go”.

Batik is the ancient art of decorating cloth by covering part of it in a coat of wax, then dying the cloth using traditional methods. This process dates back as far as the 13th century, according to Ketut the Batik artist, the instructor for my day-long crash course. He told me the ‘to-do’ ladies of the day were well regarded for the delicately painted designs they produced.

Over the next seven hours with each drawing, painting and dipping stage my mini masterpiece started to resemble the final picture. In the absence of any health and safety information, I resigned myself to this being a ‘do at your own risk’ experience (and don’t try this one at home!). I submerged my creation in vats of chemicals and tubs of boiling water. Thirsty work indeed! I replenished myself with a cold Bintang while waiting for the fabric to dry and my grand ‘ta-dah’ moment, producing a piece of traditional Indonesian art; vowing that this was one souvenir not destined to end up in the back of a cupboard once home.

As we neared the villa on our return journey, a small crowd of locals dressed in their Sunday-best blocked the road. “Wedding” declared Adi. Explaining the many stages of a Hindu wedding, all taking place over several days, it would seem my chance passing coincided with the final stage; the reception. The main rituals to set the bride and groom on their future path in life together now completed, it was time for guests to share in the nuptials. I jumped out of the vehicle for a nosy and was ushered inside to join the celebrations.

The newly-weds were sat stoically centre-stage for family, friends (and gatecrashers) to admire. Their perfectly made up faces, exquisite bridal gowns and head gear dazzled the party-goers, and I stood in amazement at the

grandeur and elegance of the costumes. Pulled in the direction of the seated lovers, invited wedding guests started to take photos of the unexpected visitor with the immaculate bride and groom. Not quite dressed for the occasion, I wondered if I would make it into their wedding album?!

Another custom of the island are the morning trips to market; a daily occurrence for Balinese folk. On foot, I joined the regular throng of Pandak Gede villagers making their pre-dawn outing to the street side stalls to buy their fruit, vegetables, meat, some rather large fish and many items I had no hope of identifying (or desire to try). My visit to Pandak Gede market proved as much a spectacle to those selling their wares as their wares were to me and at five am the market was in full swing. As the morning sun began to rise I was told I was actually late for the best buys.

A colourful array of characters, food and goods lined each side of the main road, a mile long.

Pick-up trucks were overloaded with durian fruit - a popular and much loved fruit with the locals, more commonly known with us ‘tourists’ for its powerful aroma – and mangosteens: a round, apple-sized, deep purple fruit. “Salak”, said a lady as old as the hills of Tabanan, as she opened up a brown fruit with skin resembling small snake scales. Not dissimilar to a pineapple in taste, I was later to be told by the owner at Villa Dari Indera it has also

been made into a wine.

Drawn by a waft of bbq, I joined the locals queueing for chicken skewers and I couldn’t help thinking if the young seller were to name his business, ‘Roaring Trade’ would certainly suffice. In my 2-mile (there and back) market meander, every other stall seemed to be preparing offerings for the Gods; a fundamental part of everyday life for the Balinese. I watched as rice, meat or fish and flowers were laid on a plant leaf – banana – or into a little woven basket. These are placed around the homes and temples and Yulie at Villa Dari Indera explained the ritual as I joined her one morning on ‘her rounds’.

The thrice daily duty to guard against evil spirits is a thank you to the heavens, she told me. Balinese Hindus believe this will bring them “prosperity and good health”. Not only laid at the temples and shrines, Yulie would place these colourful parcels in front of doorways and vehicles, performing the same movement and prayer with each offering laid.

Religion is integral in every aspect of life in Bali where hardly a day goes by without a festival or ceremony. Music and dance play a huge part and taking my seat at a Barong performance, it was obvious this was also a huge part of tourism industry for the island. Kerac, Legong, Ramayana and fire dances are all vibrant and theatrical stories telling the tales of Balinese folklore. Like most legends, the origin

of the Barong is unknown. Depicting a fight between good and evil spirits, the five-act play - with monkeys, a boar, a tiger, masked dancers and a couple of mythological monsters - was a 2-hour spectacle of colour and creativity, accompanied by the exotic tones of the gamelan, and choreographed to the finest detail.

My final foray through the enchanting isle was a drive through the villages of the Jatiluwih rice terraces; the biggest terraces in Bali. Formerly a UNESCO cultural heritage site, the terraces follow the hillside topography of the Batukaru mountain range unfolding from the foot of the mountain to the coast. We were rewarded with tremendous views as we zig-zagged our way up the 18km twisting road to the tableland village of the same name. “There are many stories from where the name Jatiluwih originates” said Adi, who explained his ancestors came from the highland village.

After sharing several possibilities he concluded “so Jaton Ayu is the same as Jatiluwih”. I nodded, a little bemused… but everyone likes a legend. Tourists flock to these terraces known for the ingenious water management system covering 20,000 hectares.

The subak irrigiation system, was created to mimic a natural ecosystem and has been tried and tested since the 9thCentury. Between groups of tourists – all coming to share the view – there were pockets of stillness where I could take in the panorama.

A backdrop of mountains and lush forests made this picture postcard position breathtakingly beautiful, and at 700m the cooler air was welcomed. I sat for some time learning the rice paddy lingo, nampadin (cleaning the rice field), and melasah (paddy land leveling) whilst Adi explained that as well as the region being a producer of rice, it was also a key area for other crops such as vegetables, coconut, coffee, and bananas. Dotted over the terraces, farmers went about their agricultural tasks, many still using traditional methods and tools to work.

Setting off on our return to the villa we diverted onto a bumpy, pot-holed road until Adi stopped and pointed me in the direction of some stairs. Descending the wet, slippery steps down a hillside I reached the bottom to find the milky green waters of Angseri hot springs. Obviously more popular with locals than tourists I immersed myself into my 37-degree bath. “Everyone who comes to Bali must go to the hot springs” said Adi, telling me of its spiritual and therapeutic benefit. 30 minutes and no younger-looking later, I heard “Miss Emily, we must go”.

My visit to the Balinese isle was almost at its end and as we trundled back along the rough road Adi asked, “Did you enjoy your first time in Bali Miss Emily?”. Reflecting on my trip, where I had discovered just some of the beauty of the enchanting isle. “Yes, and I’m sure I’ll be back again Adi” I smiled.

Top 10 must-do’s in Bali• Tanah Lot – A beautiful Temple perched on a rock surrounded by the sea

• Ubud Monkey Forest – Spot long-tailed macaques in their natural habitat as you meander through this nutmeg forest

• Goa Gajah – On the western edge of Bedulu Village is what is known as the “Elephant Cave” a site of significant historic value

• Ulun Danu Bratan – A beautiful Temple resting on the edge of Lake Bratan

• Nusa Lembongan – A small island off the southeast coast of the mainland, with great beaches and amazing marine life

• Mount Batar – Start your climb early to see the sunrise from the top of this active volcano

• Tenganan – A visit to this village is like stepping back in time, as you can see how the Balinese used to live

• White Water Rafting – Tackle the Ayung River and its rapids, whilst rafting through some amazing scenery

• Art Market – The Ubud Art Market is full of beautiful hand crafted goods

• Jimbaran Beach – Cafes and restaurants line the beach, and the area is famous for its seafood barbeques

Emily was a guest of Dari Indera Villas and Spa, dariindera.com

Dari Indera Villas and Spa are a collection of brand-new private serviced villas offering the ultimate in luxury, relaxation and privacy. Designed by award-winning architects G-Fab, all villas in the collection boast a luxury finish with private pool and an expert team of staff.

Prices start from £350per night for a 3-night stay in a 4-bed luxury villa, including airport collection and drop-off, a welcome meal, daily breakfast, housekeeping and turndown services, and a 24-hour concierge service.

Additional services and facilities available include car with driver/guide, massage, personal chef, excursions, and party catering.

Flights start from £420pp, skyscanner.net - For more information on Bali visit balitourismboard.org and indonesia.travel

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DESERT CAMPING IN THE UAE

Ras Al Khaimah: The UAE’s Authentic Emirate

When travellers think of the United Arab Emirates, they usually picture vibrant cities, bustling nightlife and

luxury shopping. And while that can certainly be found in mainstream Dubai or Abu Dhabi, an emirate that is much more authentic, laid-back and ‘off the beaten track’ awaits

less than an hour north of Dubai International Airport.

Welcome to Ras Al Khaimah, home to year-round sunshine, diverse landscapes, authentic culture and a whole host of

outdoor activities. Put it all together, and you get one of the world’s fastest growing tourism destinations for all the right

reasons.

Here is what to expect in the UAE’s Authentic Emirate…

WORDS: SCOTT MCDONOUGH

EXPERIENCE RAS AL KHAIMAH

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Diverse Landscapes

There is nothing quite like the great outdoors, and those who know this to be true will be happy to find that the diverse landscapes of Ras Al Khaimah range from pristine beaches and rugged mountain ranges to terracotta deserts with towering sand dunes.

For starters, Ras Al Khaimah offers over 64 km. of coastline, and many of the hotels available in Ras Al Khaimah offer private beaches and natural lagoons.

Ras Al Khaimah is also home to a unique terracotta desert, which provides opportunities to see gazelles, oryx, horses, falcons and owls in their natural habitat.

Outlining the horizon of Ras Al Khaimah is the Al Hajar Mountain range, a popular spot for outdoor activities and the site of Jebel Jais, the UAE’s highest peak at 1,934 metres.

The emirate even has its own man-made archipelago known as Al Marjan Island. Encompassing an area of 2.7 millions square metres and extending 4.5km into the sea, Al Marjan Island is the region’s newest hotspot for beaches, resorts, hotels, and kids’ clubs, as well as traditional watersports like jet skiing and parasailing.

Authentic History, Heritage and Culture

Amidst the terracotta dunes and ambers sands of Ras Al Khaimah, archaeological sites and ancient villages tell tales of civilisations from a distant past, while traditional marketplaces, national museums and genuine desert camps connect the region’s unique heritage to the present. And with 7,000 years of history to its name, modern day Ras Al Khaimah is huge on heritage.

Ras Al Khaimah’s story begins around 5000–3800 BC when the emirate was a central point for developing civilisations. Al Jazirat Al Hamra was a typical fishing village, where today’s visitors will discover net sinkers, flints and pottery beads left behind by nomadic tribes who relied on fishing.

Today, Ras Al Khaimah is home to 18 historical sites, including Sheba’s Palace, Dhayah Fort and the Umm an-Nar tombs with a history dating back to the 16th century.

Local cuisine within Ras Al Khaimah is traditional and varied with a range of recipes getting passed down from generation to generation. For centuries, merchants have brought in exotic plants and spices, which have influenced the Arabic cuisine that Ras Al Khaimah offers today.

Those who want to spend an Aladin-esque night by a roaring campfire under the stars can do so at the Bedouin Oasis Camp, which provides an authentic recreation of traditional Bedouin life complete with goat’s hair tents, soft cushions on the warm sand, a traditional barbeque and a full schedule of entertainment. Alternatively, the Bassata Desert Village offers popular pastimes such as dune bashing, sand surfing, belly dancing and the whirling spectacle that is the Tanoura dance.

Outdoor Activities Galore

Thanks to its diverse landscapes, Ras Al Khaimah plays host to many different types of outdoor activities. For starters, there is the Jebel Jais Via Ferrata iron path, which is comprised of three individual start and finish points as well as three zip-lines measuring 165 ft. 195 ft. and 985 ft. to cater to a wide range of ages and fitness levels. Also on the drawing board is the world’s longest zip-line and an adventure park, which is set to be launched in Q4 2017.

Popular watersports in Ras Al Khaimah run the gamut from scuba diving, sailing, water skiing, jet skiing, parasailing and fishing, just to name a few. Many of these activities are available via the emirate’s hotels and resorts and span from beginner to expert levels. Meanwhile, the Ice Land Water Park provides a fun day out for families.

Thrill-seeking visitors can also race at the RAK Track or take to the skies at Jazira Aviation Club. The club is the only microlighting company in the UAE and offers visitors the chance to learn to fly through a range of courses.

Meanwhile, in the Al Hajar Mountains, trekkers can hike up to the summit of Jebel Jais or spend a day biking, camping, climbing or picnicking.

Luxury Accommodation

Ras Al Khaimah offers a choice of luxury hotels and resorts, including Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah, Al Wadi Desert – A Ritz-Carlton Partner Hotel, The Cove Rotana Resort, DoubleTree by Hilton Resort & Spa Marjan Island, Rixos Bab Al Bahr, Hilton Ras Al Khaimah Resort & Spa, Golden Tulip Khatt Springs Resort & Spa.

... in the Al Hajar Mountains, trekkers can hike up to the summit of Jebel Jais or spend a day biking, camping, climbing or picnicking.

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A TASTE OF LA GOMERA

There’s no better way to discover a culture than through its food. In the Canary Islands, modern cuisine takes its roots from traditional Spanish recipes combined with African and Latin American influences. The resulting

gastronomy is natural and rustic yet warm and inviting. And in La Gomera, the second smallest Canary, dishes

sizzle with unique characteristics that are worth knowing and, above all, tasting.

WORDS: SCOTT MCDONOUGH

DISCOVER THE ISLAND PARADISE THROUGH ITS CANARIAN FLAVOURS

A Simple Foundation

Simple, hearty and authentic. La Gomera’s culinary foundation mirrors the way of life of those who call it home. The cuisine is based around the island’s locally sourced products, including honey, bread, cheese, fish and wine.

To this day, many small businesses make their own products within La Gomera’s petite area of 378 km2, reflecting the island’s long-established agricultural background.

Local Delights

Seafood, cheese, mojos, bread, wine and palm honey represent the local delights of La Gomera’s cuisine. Others come in the form of stews, sauces and soups like Potaje de berros. This wholesome watercress soup is served on wooden plates made from Juniper or Holly.

Papas arrugada is another local favourite. Potatoes are boiled in salt water and served with either a green coriander sauce called mojo verde or a spicy red chilli version known as mojo rojo. It’s the perfect accompaniment to fresh parrotfish or ropa vieja, a popular pea stew with various types of meat, thyme and wine.

Fine Wines

Speaking of wine, connoisseurs will be happy to know La Gomera produces excellent vintages. Small vineyards sprinkle the island’s volcanic terrain, where most of the work is still done by hand.

The most distinctive wines of La Gomera are full-bodied whites with a varied bouquet of aromas. Most of these flagship whites are made from

forastera blanca grapes. Forastera grapes account for 90% of the island’s vines, but they aren’t grown anywhere else in the world.

La Gomera’s red wines are mostly made from Listan Negro grapes typical of the Canary Islands or blended in smaller amounts using Tintilla, Tempranillo, Negro Molle and other varieties. Noted for their high tannins, these wines burst with aromas of dark red fruit and berry flavours before finishing dry and balanced. Since 2003, La Gomera’s wines are protected by the Guarantee of Origin, “Vinos de La Gomera”.

Glorious Cheese

Cheese reigns among the most valued staples of Gomeran cuisine. Queso blanco is a smoked goat’s cheese varying between mild and strong flavours, depending on the stage of maturity. In other cases, cheese makes up the main ingredient for delicacies such as curd cakes and almogrote.

Almogrote is traditionally made by mixing mature hard cheese, garlic, pepper, chillies, tomatoes and olive oil until it reaches the consistency of a chunky dip. Foodies take note: this pungent paste is a culinary must if you want to experience a true taste of La Gomera.

Seafood, cheese, mojos, bread, wine and palm honey represent the local delights of La

Gomera’s cuisine.

Bread and Pastries

Bread from La Gomera has a widely recognised reputation for its quality craftsmanship. Some even argue that a pastry or cake from La Gomera is an essential part of a visit to the island. They range from butter ring shaped-pastry, Bilana Cake, and Morones to Vichi doughnuts, cookies and gofio.

Gofio was a staple of the Canary Islanders before the Europeans arrived. It’s a flour obtained from cereal grain, such as millet, wheat and barley. The gofio from La Gomera is especially sought after due to its strong flavour and different blends of cereals available.

Palm Honey

Palm honey, unquestionably the queen of Gomeran gastronomy, reveals the close bond between the inhabitants of La Gomera and their environment. Its delicate production process starts with extracting the sap, or guarapo, from palm trees. The sap is then boiled and thickened into a dark syrup whose flavour is ideal for making desserts, cocktails and sweet dishes.

What’s more Palm honey boasts excellent therapeutic properties. Many islanders use it for healing wounds, burns, ulcers and sore throats. This process has created a genuine culture intertwined with palm honey that reaches far beyond cuisine.

The gastronomy of La Gomera proves simplicity doesn’t have to be boring. Instead, Spanish and African cultures mix with La Gomera’s natural charm, presenting an opportunity to discover the island paradise through its Canarian flavours.

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THE VIESTRA GUIDE TO ST LUCIA

STEEPED IN RICH, COLONIAL HISTORY AND CELEBRATED AS THE CARIBBEAN’S MOST ROMANTIC DESTINATION, ST LUCIA IS AN ISLAND LIKE NO OTHER.

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Steeped in rich, colonial history and celebrated as the Caribbeans most romantic destination, St Lucia is an island like no other. The sweet, spicy trade wind blows effortlessly across the palm-fringed coastline and through dense rainforests, occasionally bringing with it a smattering of liquid sunshine to cool your sun-scorched skin. Around every corner youll find yet another dazzling shore, but no vista commands your attention more than of The Pitons; an arresting mountainous seascape named a world heritage site by UNESCO. Made up of Gros Piton and Petit Piton, these volcanic peaks dominate the islands coastline and create arguably the most dramatic view in the Caribbean. Bursting with national parks and plantations that provide a window into centuries gone by, the island is more than just a (very) pretty face. Gin-clear waters do little to hide the pristine coral reefs teeming with jewel coloured sea-life, and its rich, volcanic earth produces some of the best bananas and cocoa you can ever hope to taste, demonstrating why award-winning British chocolatier Hotel Chocolat has its own plantation here. Bustling markets and charming fishing villages dot the landscape, but the modestly sized island is predominantly carpeted in lush rainforest that stretches from the top of every peak to the bottom of every valley, making it difficult to navigate on foot or by car. Accordingly, St Lucia can be explored just as easily by water and, with the addition of some luxury marinas, its become quite the luxury destination for yachts of the rich and famous.

Where to stay The most popular side of the island is the west, boasting luxury resorts that offer views like no other. Most honeymooners with deep pockets flock to Jade Mountain, a mini resort within the larger Anse Chastanet estate. Its open-air suites boast in-room infinity pools with breath-taking views over the famous Pitons, and a personal butler is assigned to each sanctuary to attend to your every whim. If you can drag yourself away, guests can enjoy a special six course lionfish dinner on the beach, helping save the oceans ecosystem as you watch the sun set. For a more affordable but by no means less impressive stay, Marigot Bay Resort and Marina by Capella is not to be overlooked. Set atop what has famously been named as the most beautiful bay in the Caribbean by author James A. Michener, the stunning inlets azure waters and green-sheathed mountains have featured in films such as Dr Doolittle and Pirate

of the Caribbean. Guests will fall in love with the resorts pool and shaded swim-up bar, where you can enjoy piña coladas, complimentary coconuts and fresh, hand-rolled sushi either directly from the water or brought over to your daybed. Be sure to sign up for the hotels exclusive rum-tasting experience too, to learn about its rich history and wow your friends with your in-depth knowledge of one of the worlds lesser marketed spirits. Room tip: opt for a bay-view suite for an extra kitchen and living area – perfect to relax in when the sun gets too strong.

Where to eat Dotted around the Marigot Bay Marina are several bars and restaurants where the rum punches are lethal and the jerk chicken spicy. Head to Hurricane Hole for sundowners so strong you wont remember them and Pirate Bayfor fish tacos, flaming bananas and a view to die for. A must-visit lunch venue is Pink Plantation House, a candy coloured French colonial mansion in the North-West side of the island that offers delicious, authentic food with one of the most Instagram-worthy views of the island. Enjoy your Creole mahi-mahi on the photogenic veranda, which offers sweeping vista across the propertys lush tropical gardens and the Castries coastline. For a special dinner setting, make a sunset booking at The Great Room at Viceroy’s Sugar Beach where you can enjoy four courses of the chef special tasting menu with wine pairings. Expect impeccable service, dishes such as pan-seared Kurobuta pork with truffle and a selection of predominantly French wines enjoyed to a backdrop of the Petit Piton, swaying palm trees and a blanket of stars. To experience the real spirit of the island like a local, dont miss Gros Islet’s Fish Friday Jump Up Street Party, with its variety of street food stalls, dancing,

Gin-clear waters do little to hide the pristine coral reefs teeming with jewel

coloured sea-life, and its rich, volcanic earth

produces some of the best bananas and cocoa you can

ever hope to taste...

local crafts and rum punches.

What to do St Lucia is a varied island with so many activities to cover off, whether its exploring the worlds only drive-in volcano, taking in the beautifully maintained Botanical Gardens and waterfalls, climbing the majestic Pitons or riding on horseback across the silvery beaches. The best way to see everything concisely is to arrange a private or small group tour through your hotel - each offers a different perspective of the island. Marigot Bay Resort teams up with St Lucia Eco Adventures to offer a unique guided tour from a local islander Jahrod. Combining boat trips and private transfers with authentic experiences, you can expect to speed across the sparkling water to Soufrière before a holistic garden tour. Here, youll eat juicy, freshly-dropped mangos still warm from the sun, learn about the healing properties of indigenous botanicals and wander past passionfruit trees, cashew fruit and pineapples on your way to a stunning viewpoint. From there youll head to a picture-perfect plantation to learn more about how chocolate is made, before hiking through the jungle to Sapphire Falls and Jungle Spa, a natural sulphur springs and mineral baths. As well as lunch with a view, youll also enjoy a chance to snorkel at Sugar Beach on this action-packed adventure. If that wasnt high intensity enough, there are few better places to explore the dense rainforest than from the canopies of its lush upper layer. Do just that at Rainforest Adventure, where you ascend through the waving banana trees, brightly coloured hibiscus and towering gommiers on an open-air gondola, navigating past flitting humming birds and glittering insects for a stunning panoramic view of the north of the island. Once youre up high, trained instructors will assist you in flying all the way back through the jungle on seven separate lines – just beware of the tarantulas that make these trees their home! May through to November is a great time to visit the island if youre a fan of culture, as the tourist boards St Lucia Summer Festivals programme is in full swing. Whether youre keen to see the Carnival, attend the Arts & Heritage Festival or eat and drink your way around the island at the Food & Rum Festival, theres something for everyone. Music fans would do well to visit at the end of May to enjoy St Lucia Jazz at National Park Pigeon Island for a family day out – bring a picnic blanket and parasol and enjoy an afternoon and evening of Caribbean charm.

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TOP 10 CARIBBEAN DESTINATIONS

With more than 7,000 individual islands in the Caribbean, it can be overwhelming trying to decide which blissfully secluded, sun-

spattered hotspot is perfect for your next hard-earned holiday.

Whether you’re looking for historical hiking, stunning scenery or an action-packed week of water sports, we’ve got you covered.

WORDS: SOPHIE COUGHLAN

SO MANY ISLANDS TO CHOOSE FROM BUT WHICH ONE?

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BARBADOSKnown as one of the more British-

feeling islands, you’ll instantly feel at home with the regular afternoon tea, cricket and Anglican Churches in Barbados. It is, without doubt, one of the most popular Caribbean destinations thanks to its varied activities, and visitors love the island’s brilliant turquoise waters, pink coral sands and friendly locals.

Where to stay: Sandy Lane may be over half a century old, but it’s as popular now as when it opened. Its old-school glamour, three impressive golf courses and palatial marble spa complete with waterfalls ensures it remains a firm favourite amongst moneyed types who love to indulge.

ST LUCIAA favourite with romantics, this is one

of the most varied islands, with a treasure trove of activities, vistas and beaches to discover. Instantly set apart from its Caribbean siblings thanks to its breath-taking views of Gros and Petit Piton, this lush, mountainous island boasts the world’s first drive-in volcano.

Where to stay: Designed by avant garde architect Nick Troubetzkoy, Jade Mountain offers its wealthy guests uninterrupted views of the island’s famous Pitons from comfort of a plunge pool in their unique open-aired suites. Don’t miss the chocolate lab experience, where you get to see how each flavour is blended and bar is made by hand.

GRENADAKnown as the Spice of the Caribbean,

Grenada is a great destination for more active holiday-makers who want something a little less developed than sister islands Barbados and Jamaica. Whether you’re hiking up the Seven Sisters Waterfalls or visiting the world’s first underwater sculpture park, there’s

plenty to tempt you from even the most picturesque of beaches.

Where to stay: With only 30 suites, Calabash Grenada is a family-run, luxury boutique hotel surrounded by tropical gardens that give way to a picture-perfect beach. With a focus on service and indulgences, guests get treated daily to evening canapes brought to their room and a complimentary massage upon check-in.

ST BARTSFoodie favourite St Barts is a

gastronomic delight that’s as popular for its faultless French and Creole cuisine as it is for its pristine beaches. Exclusive but relaxed, it’s the perfect spot for people watching and partying – first timers shouldn’t miss a trip to kitsch nightclub Le Ti St-Barth.

Where to stay: Legendary Eden Rock St Barths is regularly voted as one of the finest hotels on the globe, and it’s easy to see why. Playground of the rich and famous, you’ll never be far from a celeb as you sun yourself on one of the resort’s catamarans or recline on its golden sands with a crushed ice cocktail.

ST KITTS & NEVISTThis two-island nation is bursting with

history, with sugar plantations playing a huge role in St. Kitts & Nevis’ heritage.

Now a lush tropical holiday spot, it’s perfect for active types who love sailing, diving and windsurfing, and music lovers

will enjoy the annual music festival in June.

Where to stay: Relais & Chateaux’s Montpellier Plantation is a stunning 300-year converted sugar plantation, offering guests the ultimate luxury experience with an abundance of cabanas, hammocks and stunning sea views.

JAMAICA

The birthplace of Reggae, home to Seven Mile Beach and inspiration for James Bond – Jamaica has a breadth of appeal that has made it one of the liveliest Caribbean islands. Head to Montego Bay or Negril for the beaches and nightlife, or kick it to Kingston, the island’s capital for some spirited music, jerk chicken and red stripe to really soak up the atmosphere.

Where to stay: Perched on top of a Negril cliffside, The Caves enjoys a secluded position with magnificent views, a saltwater pool and direct access into the ocean. Said to be Naomi Campbell’s favourite hotel, and she’s not an easy woman to please.

DOMINICAN REPUBLICOne of the most reasonably priced

islands in the Caribbean, the Dominican Republic is popular with families who take advantage of the plentiful all-inclusive offers. The island is large, so planning excursions ahead ensure you get a chance to see as much of the island as possible. Active types will love white water rafting in the mountains or watching for humpback whales on the coast.

Where to stay: One of the finest hotels on the island, Eden Roc at Cap Cabana offers spacious, airy rooms, generous sized private pools and relaxing views across beautifully kept gardens or the resort lagoon. Inspired by the Mediterranean Rivera with a Caribbean twist, you’ll be staying in the lap of luxury.

CUBAAfter relaxing travel restrictions

with America, the Pearl of Antilles is set for an influx of new tourists to be captivated by its faded colonial charm, vintage cars, fine cigars and enthralling live music. Head to Havana in a Cadillac to be transported back in time and visit Varadero’s popular white beaches for the ultimate Caribbean experience.

Where to stay: For unbeatable character, Chez Nous is filled with colonial details and furniture, and first floor bedrooms offer balconies to sit out on as you enjoy a Havana rum (or two).

ARUBAPopular thanks to an abundance

of hotel package deals, head off the beaten track to discover Eagle Beach, recently voted one of the world’s most beautiful. Make sure to visit Arikok National Park, the largest in the Caribbean, covering around 20% of the island and wander round the main town of Oranjestad for beautiful pastel-coloured buildings – you won’t be able to put your camera down.

Where to stay: The Renaissance Aruba Resort & Casino consists of two hotels on one private island, with both a family friendly section and an adults-only offering. The island boasts the adults-only Flamingo Beach, home to the arresting sight of the famous pink flamingos that patrol the atoll.

ANGUILLAWith over 30 soft white beaches

across this compact island, it’s easy to be spoilt for choice when it comes to the perfect sunbathing spot. A popular destination for those looking for a quieter, more authentic Caribbean experience without the hordes of tourists, its perfect for those looking to go off the radar – but be prepared to pay for the privilege.

Where to stay: Following its renovation, Auberge Resort Malliouhana continues to go from strength to strength. Overlooking the island’s famous Meads Bay, you can spend your days enjoying the hotel’s two-tiered infinity pool and dining at the infamous Restaurant at Malliouhana. What better way to pass the time?

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NICARAGUA

Like its many volcanoes that are currently sleeping the Central American country of Nicaragua and make no

mistake is about to erupt with some force onto the tourism market of the UK and Europe.

Its past may be strewn with bloody conflicts but the

harmony that now exists in its political and national life makes this a fertile area for growing its tourism sector.

WORDS: GEOFF MOORE

SET TO BE A NEW FORCE FOR UK TOURISM MARKET

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Great seafood is plucked directly from the ocean and straight to your plate. And served in many restaurants along its curving

2-mile long esplanade.

The blood red of the sunsets on the Pacific coast are the nearest one sees today as the last major conflict between the Sandinista and Contra’s now fade from the memory rather as the sun dips beyond the western horizon. Making this a perfect time to visit a land of lakes and volcano’s discovering what the likes of US author of Mark Twain found when he discovered this lush and colourful country some 150 years ago in 1866.

Today the three-wheeled equivalent transport to the far eastern Tuk Tuk their ‘Triciclos’ speed passengers around the bustling streets by pedal or motorbike power that in Twain’s time horses ruled the roads and trails with boats and canoes plying the rivers to help the thousands of 49er ‘Gold Rush’ miners to get to California rather than across the USA itself.

Americans are still here today but on vacation enjoying the many delights and tastes of this tropical country. However those delights are being opened up to a new British market.

The fairly active ones like Concepcion and more recently Momotombo have put on some great displays with

eruptions. The more docile example like Masaya can be visited very easily from the capital city of Managua which is only 15 miles away. Here you have direct views into its gaping crater to see the magma boiling away some 200 feet below you.

The smell of sulphur does pervade the air around the crater viewing point but short views over the edge where the smells and the sound of magma bubbling coming up from the depths have this rather well named as the ‘Gates of Hell’!

That sulphurous smell is present too on a rather different experience where it is possible to walk on a short trail around a nature reserve high on the upper slopes of Mombacho.

Located just 6 miles from the pretty city of Granada, itself one of the most famous cities in the country. A trip there is a great experience and where the unique cloud forest will cool you

down as you are taken to the summit at around 4,000 feet.

It is possible to walk to the summit however its mainly special four wheel drive vehicles that take hikers up the very steep road to the start of the trail.

I had not gone more that 200 metres along the trail before my expert guide Edgar quickly pointed out a two-toed sloth high in the canopy of trees to the right of the trail.

A real treat as these mainly nocturnal creatures are hardly active, even at the best of times but during the day. Well I was delighted to quietly picture the creature as its gently and purposefully moved in a tree looking around for tasty leaves to eat, seemingly unaware of my presence.

Rare orchids, butterflies and bromeliads abound as the just over one mile circular trail takes you around the forested caldera. Various viewpoints on the trail provide views back to the city of Granada but also down into its crater now firmly covered with lush tropical plants.

However just to let you know that it may appear to be totally asleep but an active fumarole at one point still emits

warm sulphur steam maybe just to keep you guessing?

Another sleeping volcano is that of Apoyo but here the whole crater that was formed 23,000 years ago has filled with clean underground water and the 8 square mile lake can be used for swimming, kayaking and sailing from the Apoyo Resort.

If you want some Pacific water instead then head to the charming seaside resort of San Juan del Sur overlooked by a giant statue of Christ made by a local man who was cured from cancer. Below the sweeping beach with lush red sunsets is a good choice. Game fishing and other water sports including diving are available.

Great seafood is plucked directly from the ocean and straight to your plate. And served in many restaurants along its curving 2-mile long esplanade. The Victoriano Hotel is a top choice, one for its delightful colonial styling

but also its where Mark Twain stayed during his journey across the country back in 1866 although much of the current building is from 1903.

The geology of the country is very much responsible for its major exports gold, rum and coffee the two latter ones from the fertile volcanic soil left from many eruptions.

Coffee is grown in the higher regions of the north however the top quality beans come from shade grown plantations around the Matagalpa area.

One way to find out for your self is to stay at or visit Selva Negra this eco-lodge estate offers a great experience and insight into the world of coffee.

The German owner Eddy Kühl and his daughters run the estate, which is a little of Bavaria in the hills of Nicaragua. Many Germans came to the country in the 19th century and set up such farms.

Tours to see how the beans are harvested and processed all by hand and organic too! Workers painstakingly and deftly hand sort the beans throwing out any that are sub-standard or selecting out any tiny stray items. Quality and that means every single

bean has to be just right in order to get the top prices.

The drying in the sun of the beans is done over 2 weeks. The thin layer of beans are raked by women who can tell when they are dry purely by the sound they make as they rake and walk over them.

Stacked sacks of beans are sent to market and at some times of year that nearly all you seem see from the roads sacks and sacks of beans where coffee is king.

With a ground shift coming from Nicaraguan tourism they are keen to expand into the European market and like its geology this dozing tourism hotspot is about to erupt on the UK now! Geoff Moore is a freelance travel writer www.thetraveltrunk.net

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WEEKEND VISIT TO

MAGGIE OLIVER TRAVELS TO THE HISTORIC DE FACTO SWISS CAPITALSWITZERLANDBERN

Bern, Switzerland’s Federal capital. Aerial photograph of the old town, which is on the UNESCO list of Historic Cities and Towns. Copyright by Switzerland Tourism; ST/swiss-image.ch/Terence du Fresne

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Our Silver Traveller, Maggie Oliver, visits Bern in Switzerland.

Having visited Switzerland many times, I confess I had never been to Bern, the capital city, and a UNESCO world heritage site since 1983. What an oversight!

Leaving Heathrow on a dismal mid June Friday, I boarded a Swiss Air flight to Zurich at 12.05pm, then by train to Bern. I was in Bern by 4.30pm. The journey is no hassle. But if you don’t fancy the train, there are 4 direct flights a week from London City Airport.

I stayed at Hotel Baren, close to the rail and tram stations in Schauplatz street which leads into the Bundesplatz, (Parliament Square). The square is used for a variety of public events from markets to pop concerts. Hotel Baren provides all mod cons to a high standard, good bar breakfasts and was especially noteworthy for the efficiency and friendliness of its staff.

That evening I dined at the Granary, or Kornhaus with Nicola Schaffner, Head of Public Relations in Bern, a charming young woman. Our Guinea Fowl was accompanied by a couple of excellent local wines of her choosing. The white was especially good!

It was not until later, when I descended the ornate staircase into the cellar, that I fully appreciated the building. Used for many centuries as a store/tithe barn, now a restaurant, it is a huge area of which every possible surface, walls, columns, pillars and ceiling are painted with highly coloured depictions of local history and culture. A feast for the eyes, it is truly stunning.

On Saturday morning I briefly met Beatrice Lang, an official tour guide who was really good to be with. We walked and talked together around the southern environs of the old city, taking in the terraced gardens overlooking the fast flowing river Aare on to Munster Cathedral. The figures under the Munster entrance portal depicting the final judgement are both amazing and horrific. Our forbearers certainly had lurid imaginations, matched only by their superb craftsmanship.

After Beatrice and I parted, my first stop was the Zytglogge clock/gate at the top of Kramgasse, dating back to the 13th century. The face has a 24 hour dial together with the phases of the moon and other celestial bodies. I watched it strike and marvelled at all its

moving parts and mechanisms.Underneath the arch of the gate I discovered a thoughtfully placed Pissoir. Yes, it is still used - I waited to check on that!

The old city area has 4 miles of covered arcades housing a huge variety of mostly high class shops from jewellers to confectioners. The cobbled streets are almost entirely free of traffic apart from a few residents’ cars and the trams. Walking around is sheer bliss. I took a quick walk around the smaller of the Bernese street markets in Munstergasse. Towards the end of the street, there was a well patronised cheese stall. Speaking with the owner, I discovered that not only is he in Bern on Saturday, but also has a stall in Borough Road Market in London Tuesday-Saturday, called TUMI. All around the streets are ornate fountains, fed by beautifully clear spring water. These are a special feature in Kramgasse. On my way down the hill, I passed Einstein’s home, (open to the public) and briefly looked at the old Gothic Town Hall, completed in 1416.

At the bottom of the hill, before crossing the

Nydegg bridge one can see the faded writing on the end wall of an old building, saying W Lindt. It was the old chocolate factory. Chocolate production in Bern goes back to the early 19th century. Just over the bridge is the Bear Park. Thankfully, they now have a decent sized park alongside the river, a section of which has been diverted to form their own private lido. Apart from a fleeting glimpse, the bears were not much in evidence but I was intrigued by the names of their patrons fired into the bricks of the surrounding path.

I headed up the hill to the Rose Garden Restaurant. It was a steep climb. The restaurant was packed with weekend revellers. I collapsed at a veranda table overlooking the city below. The view made the climb worth while. After a light salad lunch, I returned down the hill and skirted the south bank of the river towards Helvetiaplatz. This is where there are several of the main museums and galleries. I only had time for one, the Historical Museum, housing the Einstein exhibition. This was excellent. But I ran out of time without seeing

The old city area has 4 miles of covered arcades housing a huge variety of mostly high class shops from jewellers to

confectioners. The cobbled streets are almost entirely free of traffic apart from a few residents’ cars and the trams.

Walking around is sheer bliss.

The figures under the Munster

entrance portal depicting the final

judgement are both amazing and

horrific.

Bern Copyright by: Switzerland Tourism; swiss-image. ch/Jan Geerk

Zentrum Paul Klee Copyright by: Switzerland Tourism; swiss-image.ch/Lauschsicht much of the museum’s other collections. A tram

from the square took me back to the centre of town. Later that evening, another tram deposited me at the door of the Altes Tramdepot Restaurant for dinner. The old tram site doubles as a tourist information centre and a brewery. Inside the restaurant and bar area, the huge copper brewing vats form part of the décor.

I chose a riverside terrace table outside which I shared with a young couple who seemed only too happy to talk. I’m not sure whether lamb with chilli and lime sauce, sweet potatoes and salad is particularly Swiss, but it was very good, washed down with a glass of Tramdepot beer.On Sunday morning, I went to the Zentrum

Paul Klee. This Arts Centre, designed by Renzo Piano, opened in 2005. It provides a variety of venues for theatre, music, workshops, exhibitions, conferences etc. There is particular emphasis on engaging children with art and the lower floor has a children’s centre.

I would not have missed this piece of architecture for the world. The full genius of the building is to be seen from the outside. It nestles perfectly into the hillside, the three wave-like structures opening to the west, whilst its east side slopes down into the surrounding fields. Its backdrop is the Bernese Alps.On this very morning, the mountains were in full view, their snow clad peaks standing out against an azure sky - and I had to leave! But I will return, there is so much to do and see in this lovely old city.

VIESTRA Magazine flew to Zurich from Heathrow with Swis-sair (https://www.swiss.com/ch/en) and travelled to Bern by Rail with SBB (https://www.sbb.ch/en/home.html), staying at the Hotel Baren (https://www.baerenbern.ch/en/)

For more information on Switzerland visit www.MySwit-zerland.com or call Switzerland Travel Centre on the Internation-al freephone 00800 100 200 30 or e-mail, for information [email protected]; for packages, trains and air tickets [email protected].

Swiss International Air Lines UK & Ireland to Switzerland

SWISS operates up to 180 weekly flights to Switzerland from London Heathrow, London City, Manchester, Birmingham, Edin-burgh (seasonal during summer) and Dublin from as little as £55 one-way* (Economy Light fare only includes hand luggage). The all-inclusive fares start from £71 one-way*, including all airport taxes, one piece hold luggage and hand luggage, meals and drinks. Sport equipment and bikes can travel at attractive prices with the all-inclusive fares. For reservations call 0845 6010956 or visit: www.swiss.com.

Swiss Travel System

The Swiss Travel System pro-vides a dedicated range of travel passes and tickets exclusively for visitors from abroad. The Swiss Transfer Ticket covers a round-trip between the airport/Swiss border and destination. Prices are £112 in second class and £184 in first class. The Swiss Travel Pass is the all-in-one tick-et to travel by train, bus and boat on an all-inclusive basis from 3-15 days. Prices from £170 in second class. Plus each ticket offers free admission to more than 500 museums nationwide and half-price on the most scenic Swiss mountain railways. For the ultimate Swiss rail specialist call Switzerland Travel Centre on 00800 100 200 30 or visit www.swisstravelsystem.co.uk.

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AN INNSBRUCK SUMMER

Synonymous with winter sports, the alpine city of Innsbruck is fast becoming a summer destination of choice. Surrounded by

mountains, this bastion of Austrian and Tyrolean history provides a perfect mix for both adventurous and cultured minds.

Only 90 minutes or so from Gatwick, Innsbruck sits in the Inn Valley, the capital city of Tyrol in western Austria. Steeped in a rich and at times tumultuous history, the city today is a modern cultural

centre with ongoing emphasis on the arts and outdoor pursuits. A great choice of summer 2018.

CAPITAL OF THE ALPS

Innsbruck’s old town © TVB Innsbruck / Christof Lackner

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An undoubted highlight is the Nordkette Mountain range which overlooks Innsbruck to the north.

Travel: Gatwick with Easyjet from £55. Innsbruck airport is a mere 15 minutes from the centre of town with regular public transport, so if living in London, you’re talking 3 hours door to door. Buy an Innsbruck card which gets you into numerous museums, main attractions, lifts, cable cars and public transport. Prices from €39 for 24 hours

Where to Stay: Premium: Modern - Hotel Adler, Historic - Hotel Innsbruck. Mid range: Hotel Sailer.

More info at: www.innsbruck.info/en/

What to do and see The old town oozes medieval charm, with intertwining streets and alleyways that take you back to a time in history that Innsbruck thrives on today. A major landmark in the city is the iconic Golden Roof. The roof was decorated with 2,657 fire-gilded copper tiles in 1500 for Emperor Maximilian I to mark his wedding to Bianca Maria Sforza. Weddings are still celebrated here.

One of the most impressive buildings is the Hofkirche Court Church, a magnificent testament to Tyrolean wealth at the time built by Emperor Ferdinand I in 1553. It stands as a memorial to his grandfather Emperor Maximilian I, whose cenotaph is surrounded by massive statues of his family and heroes such as King Arthur. The church also contains the tomb of Andreas Hofer, Tyrol’s national hero. This church has to be be seen to be believed, one of the most awe inspiring spaces I’ve seen.

The Imperial Palace is located in central Innsbruck containing artwork and historical pieces collected by the Hapsburgs. Various tours are available, but be aware of larger groups of tourists – it can get pretty busy.

Another palatial building, The Ambras Castle just outside the city, is easily accessible by public transport and set in beautiful grounds. Inside you will find a vast collection of antiquities and the strange curios of Emperor Archduke Ferdinand II, as well as priceless art and the documented diverse history of one of Europe’s royal bloodlines.

Swarovski Crystal, the country’s second biggest exporter after Red Bull, is based just outside Innsbruck. It has a fascinating visitors’ facility that combines a chic art expo with exquisite crystal displays, that will keep you mesmerised for a few hours (bit of trivia; Swarovski’s UK HQ is at Chiswick Buisness Park).

The Grassmayr Bell Foundry is pretty amazing. A 400 year old family business, the Grassmayr’s have created bells for some of the most important institutions and religious sites across the world. Just this year the works delivered the bell for The Cathedral of the Redemption of the People in Romania, the largest free-swinging church bell in the world - a great perk for visitors is a time lapsed video showing the painstaking process of making this particular bell.

Given Innsbruck’s location and natural surrounds, there is an emphasis on greens spaces and a particular highlight is the Hofgarten. After a refurb around 150 years ago, the 600 year old garden is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of the tourist centres, and many locals use the garden to relax and chill out. You can also take a horse drawn carriage around the city from here.

If you like a hike, but nothing too adventurous, take the Zirbenweg Alpine trail. An easy walk do-able for most people – just check weather before setting out – the trail gives stunning views down the Inn Valley and over Innsbruck. You can see for miles and the glorious alpine pastures and countryside make for a beautiful setting. The walk is around 7.5km and takes about 2 ½ hours at a leisurely pace. At the end of the trail, if walking from the Innsbruck end, catch a well earned beer or schnapps at the Tulfen Mountain Hut.

No visit to Innsbruck is complete without a trip to the Bergisel Ski Jump Tower. If you’re lucky enough, you’ll see the athletes in training, out in all conditions thanks to the facility’s all weather surface. There is a restaurant here too which provides views across the city. Not too far from the ski jump is the Tirol Panorama Museum that has 1000m2, panoramic 360 degree painting, depicting the 3rd Bergisel battle at Innsbruck.

For a great local touch, visit the Hofer Bauer Farm to sample some native schnapps, distilled on the farm with fruits grown in its orchards. Farmer Anton Nagiller, will welcome you into

his micro distillery serving you fine Tyrolean fayre complete with a full on tasting of his magnificent schnapps.

An undoubted highlight is the Nordkette Mountain range which overlooks Innsbruck to the north. Accessed via the Nordkettenbahnen cable cars, once at the top visitors can peer into Bavaria whilst admiring the city below. The peaks are popular with walkers and hikers with plenty of trails available. They are steep and only recommended for people with experience. In winter, the area is a hotbed for extreme sports enthusiasts.

There are numerous musical events within the city, and the ever popular Promenade Concerts are now in their 23rd year. These open air events, held in the inner courtyard of the Imperial Palace, are free to attend with audiences treated to a wealth of musical talent from Orchestras from all over the world. I’d advise booking a table at the Cafe Sachler, nestle in and unwind as the music fills the courtyard. Utterly enchanting.

Bergisel Ski Jump © TVB Innsbruck / Christof Lackner

Innsbruck on the River Inn © TVB Innsbruck / Mario Webhofer

Maria-Theresien-Street © TVB Innsbruck / Christof Lackner

Nordkette - Station Hafelekar © TVB Innsbruck / Helga Andreatta

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NORWAY: BERGEN TO FLÅM BY RAIL

Norway, our chilly neighbour across the North Sea whose kingdom once stretched down through the Western Isles of Scotland as far as Anglesey, has a rich cultural appeal and a historical past that’s as mythically mesmerising as the tales from Homer’s Iliad. We visited Bergen and Flåm, courtesy of

Great Rail Journeys, in search of the odd troll and the ultimate Scandinavian weekend break.

WORDS: PAUL WILLIAMS

Fjord cruise onboard Vision of The Fjords - sverrehjornevik.com/Flåm AS ;

Photographer:Sverre Hjørnevik

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Norway had never really been on the radar. Denmark has an everlasting appeal, Sweden is a land of dark tranquillity, but Norway? Oil, whale meat and trolls, right? Arriving in Bergen, you will be struck by the fresh chilly air, a somewhat surprising and welcomed change to the smog bound overbearing atmosphere of London. Bergen sits on the west Coast of Norway, on the peninsula of Bergenshalvøyen, approx 8 hours from Nowary’s capital Oslo. A hive of intellectual and artistic institutions, Bergen has a vibrant past from post Viking founders to World War 2 acts of heroism, binding our two nations together in the fight against Nazi Germany.

A late lunch at Fisketorget’s ‘Fish Me’ restaurant is compulsory, an array of sea food on offer in such abundance. I cannot recommend this place enough. It was more a sea food temple than restaurant, and one felt compelled to worship at its feet.

I had never eaten whale meat, but after reassurance that it came from sustainable sources (the Norwegian government has ultra strict regulations on fishing and

whaling), I tried it. Venison meets tuna at the battle of lobster. When in Bergen, you have to visit this restaurant. Right by the harbour with views across to the Bergen old, multi coloured town and warehouses.

Bergen is a very relaxed place, I guess you could say typically Scandinavian, although the locals would say Nordic. Friendly and particularly welcoming to the British, the people have an open, tolerant demeanour, and good God do they look healthy, all exuding a ‘Norwegian glow’ which made me feel rather dull, grey and sorry for myself.

Come evensong, Bergen starts to come alive. Aligned with bars, beware the cost of alcohol – a pint of beer was £13 with non alcoholic being around £7. Wine comes in at around the same, but food, on the whole, is like eating out in any major city in the UK.

A guided tour of Bergen is a must and like any newcomer to a city as interesting at this, please do get yourself on one; don’t allow yourself to become a transient tourist waiting for the bars to open.

On the north side of the harbour, the

magnificent Hanseatic buildings of Bryggen, a World Heritage Site, stand gracefully side by side. These buildings have an interesting past as bases of trade and Norwegian Resistance during the Second World War.

The Fløibanen Funicular goes up Fløyen Mountain for panoramic views over the city which is where, surprisingly, you take in just how big Bergen is. Other places of note to visit include: Grieg Hall, named after Edvard Grieg the Norwegian composer, home of the Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra, Bergen City Museum, Bergen Science Museum and the art museums at Kode.

Leaving Bergen and heading to Flåm via rail, is a riveting prospect and having experienced it, thoroughly recommend. Catching the northbound train at Bergen, it’s a good part of a day journeying through some spectacular countryside, where eventually you join the privately owned Flåm railway at Myrdal. The Flåm Line is a 20.2-kilometre long railway line that runs between Myrdal and Flåm, a village that sits on the bank of the Nærøy fjord.

If you get free time outside of the organised itinerary devised by Great Rail Journey’s, there is a wonderful lodge just down from the station at Myrdal, the Vatnahalsen Høyfjellshotell - great place to stop off and have a coffee or spend a

few nights in the warm, beautifully ornate hotel surrounded by the lush, Norwegian wilderness.

Flåm is a tourist hotspot in the peak seasons, so those that can’t stand big crowds, beware as it does get hectic at the harbour and in a few of the eateries. That aside, you should have no problem getting on a Fjord cruise where you will see some of the most spectacular landscapes in Norway. The two hour trip is an absolute must and if you’re lucky enough, you’ll be in for seeing some stunning marine wildlife. It can get a bit chilly mid afternoon/evening, so wrap up.

The Fretheim Hotel and the Flåmsbrygga Hotel offer fantastic accommodation and indeed, you could quite happily spend a week or two in either. If its the right time of year, at night you can spend time staring at the heavens as the northern lights dance across the night sky – please note, neck supports are not provided.

This trip is a perfect way to get a taste for travelling around Norway by rail, and guided tours are available for longer passages. Norway is a beautiful place with friendly folk eager to welcome visitors, so I’ll look at that Christmas Tree in Trafalgar Square each year with even more fondness. And I’m sad to say, no trolls were spotted on this occasion.

The Fløibanen Funicular goes up Fløyen Mountain for panoramic views over the city which is where, surprisingly, you take in just how big Bergen is.

The Ulriken Cable Car in Bergen - Bergen Tourist Board / Espen Haagensen - visitBergen.com

Aurlandsfjorden Bergen Tourist Board / Robin Strand - visitBergen.com Flåmsbana in Winter - Gjertrud Coutinho

Bryggen in evening light Bergen Tourist Board / Girish Chouhan - visitBergen.com

Great Rail Journeys offer a 7-day tour, Fjords Cruise & Historic Cities of Norway, from £1,395pp. The itinerary includes a sightseeing tour of Bergen, a journey on the Flåm Railway, and a cruise along the Aurlandsfjord. Price includes return flights, all rail and coach transport, 4* hotel accommodation, and selected excursions. Departures available from June-Sept 2017.

For further info visit https://www.greatrail.com/tours/fjords-of-norway-by-train/?tlUrl=%2Ftours%2F#FJS17 or call 01904 527 180

GRJ Independent can tailor make holidays for those inspired to visit Norway on an individual basis www.greatrail.com/grj-independent Tel: 01904 527181

For more information visit www.visitnorway.com , www.visitbergen.com , www.visitflam.com

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THE GREATEST DANES In a small corner of Denmark, it’s possible to walk through a rainbow, marvel at a giant boy, travel back in time, and walk an infinite bridge – all in the space of a

weekend.

WORDS: LORRAINE WILSON

TAKE A TRIP TO AARHUS

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Copenhagen has long been a favourite destination from the UK, but the charms of Denmark don’t stop there. In fact, just three hours north, at the end of a rather lovely train journey lies Aarhus. The second-largest city in Denmark, it has the feel of a much smaller town, with a city centre which is walkable to most destinations. For those a little further out, join the city’s residents and get on your bike. There are thousands of them in the city and many free to hire by leaving a small deposit.

This year Aarhus is a European Capital of Culture (the other is Paphos in Cyprus) and as such the programme of events is packed. The city had a solid foundation for the planners to build the programme on, however. The rainbow is one of Aarhus’s most striking landmarks. Called “Your Rainbow Panorama”, it has sat high over the ARoS Art Museum since being created by Danish-Icelandic artist, Olafur Eliasson in May 2011. In the entrance gallery it’s clear that many people rush to the tenth floor to find out what walking through the rainbow feels like. It’s no wonder as throughout the day, when looking up they would see people silhouetted against the colours, bringing the building to life.

It’s worth holding off, however, and starting at the bottom of the building, working through the galleries. Many people shake their heads at modern art, others use stronger language, but somehow ARoS managed to present modern art that anyone can enjoy, even if they can’t quite fathom the meaning (it’s explained on the panels beside each painting, sculpture or installation anyway!). It’s quite startling to see the original Marilyn Monroe screenprints by Andy Warhol here, the scale surprising and the colours much more vibrant than they look on paper. This gallery always has a crowd, and it’s not really for Marilyn, it’s for the 5m-high boy crouching in the corner. Ron Mueck’s Boy is hyper-realistic sculpture and the boy looks as if he will stand up and stretch, crashing through the ceiling at any moment.

There are special exhibitions for the ECoC year, focusing on the garden – a theme familiar to us all.Once at the top it’s time to get inside the rainbow panorama. Watching the city change as you walk through the changing colours is unlike any other experience and enjoyed by all ages, with children charging around and keen photographers trying to capture the experience. Aarhus might be one of the most family-friendly city breaks in Europe. Apart from the activities at ARoS, the experience of immersing themselves in Denmark’s past gets their little imaginations running wild. This happens at Den Gamle By (The Old Town). With some clever forward thinking, when old buildings were to be demolished in Denmark, they were brought here and reassembled to save them for future generations. The project began as far back as 1909 with buildings from the 1700 and 1800s being brought here. It has expanded over the years to include a section showing Denmark in 1927 and more recently completed, the groovy 1974 section – with shops, cars on the streets, and faithfully recreated apartment buildings of real people that showed how Danes lived and shopped.

Under construction now is a 2014 section, which might seem strange to us, but will give the young children walking about in Den Gamble By today, the fuzzy nostalgic feeling I had from 1974 at some point in the future. For the Aarhus 2017 European capital of Culture year, it has added The Aarhus Story, a journey deep underground through the city’s history from Viking times to the present

day. It has a mix of the usual tableaus alongside rather impressive technologies where pictures tell you their own stories and a full-sized steam train. The planners of Dokk1, a new building at the waterfront, have the young and the young at heart in mind. Surrounding the brand-new building, which houses the city’s library as well as administration and other offices, are the most imaginative playgrounds imaginable. Giant bears holding a slide and forests to explore, as well as boards on springs to bounce between – and there’s no restrictions on play. These are also for the young at heart. The library itself is like no other, spread throughout the building and, it seems, the library that Barack Obama will take inspiration from for the library that all Presidents build once they are out of office.The whole dock area is being regenerated, with a giant planet housing the Climate Planet, a spectacular show designed in conjunction with NASA that also provides some sobering information about what we are doing to the planet. Denmark is taking moves to increase sustainability. For example if you find that your plastic bottle of water is slightly more

expensive at the checkout, it’s an additional deposit levy that encourages people to take their bottles back to shops, deposit them and be given a voucher to spend on their subsequent shopping. Also at the docklands, a new development called Aarhus Ø is a beautifully laid-out mosaic of housing (for all budgets), allotments, canals, and places where residents and visitors can relax and enjoy the architecture and view across the water, creating a city within a city. Further out of the city is The Infinite Bridge that was initially commissioned for Sculpture By The Sea in 2015. A wooden circular structure, it sits in shallow waters on the Thors Møllebæk River and is the prefect viewing point over the city, the forest, and sea.

City breaks are more than just cultural experiences, however. Aarhus has some impressive gastronomy but for most pockets, taking a wander down to the recently opened Aarhus Street Food near the bus station and the main Strøget shopping street is an ideal option.

The disused bus garage has a world of food under its roof – from Caribbean Street Food to freshly made popsicles in a massive range of popsicles to Danish traditional favourites such as Tarteletter – creamy chicken served in pastry cases with asparagus and topped with parsley.

It’s relaxed, laid back, and for a family on a budget it’s inexpensive for Scandinavia. Aarhus was named not only the best shopping city in Denmark, but in northern Europe. From the main streets, with some names we recognise but largely pleasingly unfamiliar, to the expansive and upmarket Bruuns Galleri mall, but it’s the small, pretty streets of the Latin Quarter, the Aarhus Central Food Market and the shops of Jægergårdsgade that set it apart. Exploring Aarhus is easy on foot or by bike if your inclined, and by far the best way to chance upon streets like Møllestien, tucked away just off the city centre. This is a small slice of residential heaven, with what were called “outhouses” or “booths”, originally tint one-storied houses to let with one or two windows and a door. The houses here provide one of the city’s most picturesque streets with hollyhocks and rambling roses providing even more colour.

Where to stayFor a central location try the Radisson Blu Scandinavia hotel. Good for couples and families, with a hearty breakfast on offer, it’s within walking distance of most main attractions, and only five minutes’ walk from the central railway station. www.radissonblu.com/en/hotel-aarhus

Don’t missRemember to buy an Aarhus Card. This will give free admission to more than 20 experiences, including all the major attractions as well as free bus travel in Aarhus andthe Central Denmark Region and discounts on shopping. It’s available for 24, 48 or 72 hours. www.visitaarhus.com

From the rainbow in the sky to the flowers climbing the coloured,

painted houses Aarhus is a city that fires the imagination.

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Highlights of Christmas markets in the cities and

regions of Germany

CHRISTMAS IN GERMANY

CULTURAL HIGHLIGHT

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Bavaria:Bavaria's cities, towns and villages are filled with Christmas magic. The Christmas Market season runs from the end of November to the third week of December. The markets are generally held in the Town Square and each has its own unique atmosphere and highlights include decorated stalls heaped with traditional Christmas decorations, toys and gifts and the aro-mas of mulled wine, grilled sausages, Christmas biscuits and gingerbread . St. Nikolaus, the German Santa Claus, often pays a visit. Christmas carol singing and Christmas concerts usually coincide with the markets, which are generally open seven days a week and run well into the evenings.

www.bavaria.by/d0872665-0bc8-0b9f-3f28-3ccc6e72939a.html

Getting there: Flight and onward rail from Munich

Ammergau Alps:Charity Christmas Market in Bad KohlgrubOn Sunday, 10th of December 2017 from 3.30 pm - 6.00 pm, this is a must-go event for the locals and one which has been taking place for more than 4 decades. It has a special atmosphere und most of all a warm heart, for people not able to enjoy Christmas - every Euro and every Cent is given to charitable donations.

www.ammergauer-alpen.de/en/ammergaueralpen/event/detail/791775/2017-12-10

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Munich

Berchtesgaden:Guests visiting the Berchtesgadener Advent – a Christmas market in the historical part of town –are sometimes surprised by Christmas traditions in Berchtesgaden: A week before Christ-mas Eve, starting on December 17th, the Christkind ‘Christ-child’ is ‘rung in’ by church bells and heralded to the sound of large saluting guns every day at 3 p.m. On Christmas Eve the shoot-ing increases in volume between 11:30

p.m. and midnight reminding the inhabitants that it’s time to go to mid-night mass.

Berchtesgadener Advent, November 24th to December 31st, 2017 www.berchtesgadener-land.com

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Munich or Salzburg

Füssen Advent MarketThis atmospheric Bavarian Christmas market takes place in the baroque courtyard of the Abbey of St. Mang and lies not far from the fairytale castle of Neuschwanstein. The highlight is the Christmas tree auction for a good cause on the last evening of the mar-ket. 8th-10th and 15th-17th December 2017

www.germany.travel/en/specials/christmas/christmas-market-in-fuessen.html

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Munich or Friedrichshafen

IsnyChristmas at the Castle in the small Bavarian Town of Isny takes place from Wednesday, December 6th – Sunday, December 10th. Step through the castle gate and into the baroque courtyard of the former Benedictine monastery. Celebrate Advent with gingerbread, candles and fine hand carved wooden gifts; share your secret wishes in the celestial ‘post office’ and watch the Christmas angel float down to Earth.

Daily: traditional angel flight (6:30 pm), art and crafts demonstrations, Christmas theatre programme, free guided tours of the art gallery in the castle.

Opening times Wednesday-Fridays, 4-9 pm, Saturdays 1-10 pm, Sundays 1-8 pm

Black Forest and Baden Wurttemberg region:Nowhere has more romantic Christmas markets than Baden Wurttemberg, with medieval and Baroque palaces and houses providing the backdrop for dozens of beautifully-decorated wood-en stalls. Towns such as Baden-Baden (November 27th to

December 30th 2017) Freiburg (November 27th to December 23rd 2017), Heidelberg and Gengenbach (November 30th to December 23rd 2017) are highlights. Don’t miss the 130-metre-high stone viaduct route of the legendary train journey that runs through the Black Forest via the Ravenna gorge or “Germany’s tallest waterfalls” in Triberg – and betweeb December 25th and December 30th 2017, around one million candles and lights illuminate icicles and snow drifts over the gurgling mountain stream.

www.tourism-bw.com/Media/Press/Press-Releases/The-Spirit-of-Christ-mas

www.blackforest-tourism.com

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Stuttgart, Karlsruhe Baden-Baden or Basel

City of CelleExperience a winter’s fairy-tale in front of the historic backdrop of half-timbered houses from 30 Nov. to 27 Dec. 2017. As one of the most beautiful and romantic towns in northern Germany, Celle’s Christmas market is highlighted by an impressive baroque palace, historic alleyways and courtyards and more half-timbered houses of any European city.

Celle’s Old Town turns into a festive Christmas illumination with more than 80 stalls, one of Germanys highest Christmas traditional wooden towers and a specially constructed Christ-mas ‘wood’ of artisan craftspeople to explore, with demonstrations taking place daily. You can also book a guided tour through the city’s Website. The smells of gingerbread, hot punch and delicious Christmas foods mingle with the scent of fir sprigs, creating very special and lasting Christmas memories.

www.celle.travel/nc/search.html?sque-ry=christmas Getting there: Flight and Rail from Hamburg or Bremen

City of Duisburg:Every year the warm light of thousands of light strings, festive music and the appearance of the surrounding shops in the city of Duisburg create one of the most beautiful Christmas markets in Germany. Getting presents for your beloved ones, enjoying delicious food and beverages, taking a ride on the ferris wheel or going ice-skating are just some examples of the many things to do at Duisburg’s market, which lasts for more than 5 weeks and is open until December the 30th.

www.germany.travel/en/specials/christmas/christmas-market-in-duis-burg.html

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Dusseldorf

Harz Mountains:The enchanting Christmas markets across the Harz Mountains transform the small mountain towns into a sparkling winter wonderland. From November 29th until December 30th 2017, a unique Christmas ‘forest’ of 50 Christmas trees in the historic centre of Goslar is a highlight of the market. In the UNESCO town of Quedlinburg, 20 half-timbered houses open their court-

yards - otherwise closed to the public - on the first, second and third Advent weekend to artisans and craftsmen.

Above the picturesque town of Wer-nigerode, the impressive Wernigerode Castle hosts a market in the inner courtyard where fairy tales are read and a local speciality ‘bread-on-a-stick’ can be sampled (December 25th 2017 to January 3rd 2018).

en.harzinfo.de/pure-winter/christ-mas-markets

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Frankfurt or Berlin

North Rhine Westphalia region:

Christmas Market highlights in the North Rhine-Westphalia region include:

- Hattingen in the Ruhr Area, a sweet little town with half-timbered houses:

www.nrw-tourism.com/hattin-gen-christmas-market

- Market at the Schloss Dyck: pic-turesque market in the grounds of an historic castle, with charming market stands selling handmade, specialist goods https://www.nrw-tourism.com/a-schloss-dyck-christmas

- The Christmas market with the most visitors is the market in the cathedral city of Aachen with typical culinary specialities like Printen biscuits; https://www.nrw-tourism.com/a-aachen-christmas

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Cologne or Dusseldorf

Rhineland-Palatinate region:The Rhineland-Palatinate´s Christmas

markets have a long tradition, from big Christmas markets with a large variety of stalls and events to smaller markets in wine villages, at castles or out in the country. The Moselle Wine Region for example has a unique charm and a characteristic atmosphere; with many picturesque villages featuring beautiful old half-timbered houses. At almost all the Christmas markets in the Region, you can enjoy delicious mulled wine straight from the wine-grower, as well as a local specialty: white mulled wine made from the famous Riesling of the

Moselle RegionThe four most recommended markets would be:

- Bernkastel-Kues (from November 24th to December 23rd), which has the most spectacular lights, a mesmer-izing torch-lit swimming event on the icy Moselle and a super-size advent calendar

- Cochem (from November 24th to December 17th), at night on the banks of the Moselle and in the shadow of the Reichsburg, they have a wonderful lights and play that recounts the tale of Mary and Joseph as well as many activities for children, such as a puppet play and a Santa Claus event

- Trier (from November 27th to De-cember 22nd), Germany´s oldest city, where there are over 100 stalls with decorations and craftsmanship embed-ded in the magically decorated old city around the dome and a beautiful Santa Claus event for Children as well as a puppet play

- Traben-Trarbach (from November 24th to January 1st), where they hold

Christmas wine tastings and culinary events at night in underground wine cellars, which is exceptional as it is unique in Germany, there are also a variety of concerts to provide further entertainment.

http://www.romantic-germany.info/things-to-do/leisure-tips/christ-mas-markets

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Frankfurt, Cologne or Stuttgart

The Ruhr Region:The Ruhr Metropolis, so easy to reach from the UK via Cologne or Dussel-dorf, offers a selection of memorable Christmas markets, in historic old towns or castles. The aroma of mulled wine and roasted almonds warms the hearts of Christmas strollers while wandering from one booth to the next. One highlight is the 45 meter high Christmas tree in Dortmund.

Some markets are already open from mid-November and are accessible until the end of December. Plenty of time to visit the most beautiful Christmas markets in the Ruhr Area and to dive into the relaxed and contemplative at-mosphere of the pre-Christmas period.

www.ruhr-tourismus.de/en/themes/shopping/christmas-markets.html

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Cologne or Dusseldorf

Saxony region:Saxony is a Christmas wonderland. It’s home to the oldest Christmas market in Germany, the Dresden Striezelmarkt, but that magical, authentic Christmas atmosphere is found all over Saxony. Explore towns such as Görlitz, Meis-sen or Freiberg and the area’s romantic castles and palaces. Centuries-old traditions are thrive in Saxony, in a density unique in Germany. Try the mouthwatering gingerbread, the ‘Her-rnhut’ Advent stars and of course the world-famous Dresden Christmas Stol-len. Visit the Ore Mountains - home to the unique traditions of woodwork, where you can visit artisan crafts-people and see how the famous angel and miner, nutcracker and rotating Christmas wooden towers (‘pyramids’) are hand made. Special seasonal events include the miner’s parades, perfor-mances of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and the “Stollen” Festival in Dresden.

www.sachsen-tourismus.de/en/trav-el-topics/christmas-special/christ-mas-markets/

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Frankfurt or Berlin

Schleswig Holstein region:Famous for its vast Christmas Market is the beautiful port City of Flensburg in Schleswig-Holstein. Flensburg is very close to the Danish Border and the Danish influence can been seen everywhere: part of the market is the famous “Red street” (“Rote Straße”). It is known for its historical merchant houses, such as the“Wein- & Rumhaus Braasch“, where Rum is still distilled the old fashion way and you can enjoy a famous Christmas “Braasch-Punch”. Another good place for a stop is the “smallest bar in the world” where you can experience the legendary Tallinn Punch or a traditional mulled wine.

www.germany.travel/en/specials/christmas/christmas-market-in-flens-burg.html

Getting there: Flight and Rail from Hamburg

Celebrate Advent with gingerbread,

candles and fine hand carved

wooden gifts...

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TOP 7 BEACH WINTER DESTINATIONS

There’s no need to stay in and hibernate this winter when there’s endless opportunities of fun and adventure,

warmth and relaxation whilst visiting these beachy destination choices. Take your best smelling sun tan lotion, your best evening outfits and your favourite beach wear and pack them in a suitable travel bag,

book your flights and take your self to the airport and put yourself on a flight! It’s as easy as 1-2-3. The next

thing is to enjoy the ride. We’ve researched a few places where you can visit during the winter months and the

things you can do whilst you’re away.

Florida Keys, Florida The Florida Keys are a coral archipelago located off the Southern Coast of Florida. They stretch out across 126 miles south towards Cuba, with an average daily temperature of 25.5 degrees. Made up of 1,700 islands, be sure to visit Key Largo where numerous dive snorkel charter captains are ready to show you North Americas only living, coral barrier reef. Next to visit is Key West, another island of the Florida Keys, there's always some-thing going on at Smathers Beach, from Jet Skiing to Volleyball tournaments. It's an action packed and beautiful place to visit.Return flights averaging £530pp in No-vember and December 2017 via cheap-flights.co.uk and omegaflightstore.com

Maui, Hawaii’s Magic IsleWatch the majestic humpback whales migrate from Alaska and see the sun rise or set through the clouds at the highest peak in Haleakala National Park. Maui offers a array of stunning sights. With miles of sparkling coastline, lush valleys and tropical rainforest, Maui is one of the most popular Hawaiian islands thanks to its dramatic and incredible volcanic landscapes, peaceful surroundings and abundance of natural beauty. One great way to see the island is by road; drive the 620 curves of the road to Hana, stopping at waterfalls and plunge pools to cool off en route. We also recommend paying La-nai a visit; a historic town for shopping and dining. Pair your trip to Maui with a spot of island hopping with most flights to nearby islands lasting less than 30 minutes. Alternatively, take a boat over to neighbouring Lanai or Oahu to see as much of Hawaii as possible.

Saint Lucia, Caribbean Saint Lucia is a Sovereign island country in the Eastern Caribbean Sea. It’s one of the most attractive parts of the Carib-bean and is pleasing to all the senses. Travelling alone or going on your honey moon or taking the whole family, this is a location you will always remember. The stunning clear sky and the weather is enticing enough, and then there are the captivating landscapes, magical mountains, palm-fringed beaches and world-class choice of accommodation to stay in whilst visiting. Board a luxurious Flying Ray Catamaran and cruise to Martinique for sightseeing and shopping then unwind with a snorkel in turquoise blue waters. Take a day to embark on a delightful tour that that allows you to partake of the luxurious delicacies from Hotel Chocolat, where you can learn how to make your own chocolate bar.

TOP 7 - BEACHES TOP 7 - BEACHES

Florida Keys

Maui, Hawaii

St Lucia

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Thailand’s BeachesWith 2,000 miles of beach in Thailand there are so many places to lay yourself down to soak up some sun and get some well needed and deserved rest from the busy year you’re having and the busy year ahead. To begin with Sairee Beach in Koh Tao is a place on wonder and awe. It is the most popular of beaches on Koh Tao and has many bars and places to stay. The clear waters and party’s to celebrate the new year are a fun and beautiful experience, you can light up lanterns into the sky from the beach and watch they float up and away into the distance. You may also want to visit Koh Phi Phi, Koh Phangan, Koh Samui. Flights from Bangkok are easy to arrange to reach these destinations. Get yourself ready for an epic, exotic yet relaxing time away.

Jamaica Jamaica as we all know and love, is the birth place of first Jamaican Reggae artist Bob Marley. It’s also well known and loved for it’s hundreds of miles of coastline. You can find great surf, sand and beach bars and friendly people in destinations such as Treasure Beach and Port Antonio. Whilst some of the big resort communities like Montego Bay and Negril are there for you to experience some of the best beaches of the Island. A Island to soothe your stress and have a very laid back time and feel the Jamaican Vibe. It’s idyllic, it’s epic and sometimes you question yourself how such a place can exist and that the earth has created such paradise! It’s incredible and sometimes hard to believe it’s real, and Jamaica can quite simple have that effect on you. What’s even more interesting is that the Beaches are full of history, in Montego Bay, Doctor’s Cave Beach was named by a physician who donated his beach to form a swim club, the property was once accessible via a cave but that was destroyed in a Hurricane. The waters here are so clear you’ll not miss a fish or a hermit crab lurking on the sea bed. Return flights averaging £620pp in November and December 2017 via cheapflights.co.uk and flysharp.com

MexicoSun all year round is something we Brits don’t know much about. Here we get rain, sun, rain, sun, and cold wind through the course of a day and then a little bit more sun. It results in coat on, coat off, coat on and coat off again.. But in Mexico, with temperatures from 23-25 degrees Celsius across November to January, you needn’t bother about coats or an umbrella much, you can instead enjoy the sun and walk around freely with out a care or a worry in the world and you can enjoy the sea and choose a nice bikini to spend the day in. Whether you’re on the Caribbean or Pacific Coastlines it doesn’t make much differ-ence. Popular beach destinations to stay in Mexico are Cancun, Playacar, Playa Mujeres and River Maya.

San Juan, Puerto RicoThis is a little different because it’s near a vibrant city and also near tropical beaches. Having the best of both worlds here makes San Juan, Puerto Rico quite the gem! It’s the most accessible beach of the Caribbean and most affordable. It’s a very exciting destination with casual or Miami style and all things needed to meet your needs. Vibrant culture and friendly hospitality and delicious foods. You would have thought that the beaches would be over crowded on the weekends but it’s quite the opposite here and very relaxing. Condado is a trendy and chic beach destination with luxury beach front resorts. Ocean Park beaches are more casual and not crowded. Escambron is picture perfect with hundreds of palm trees and crystalline waters. Be sure to leave time to visit the many nearby beaches around the island that feel like a world away. There are plenty of things to do in San Juan, Puerto Rico, including shopping, fishing, enjoying the nightlife and relaxing on the beach. Walk-ing through Old San Juan, Sailing and scuba diving lessons. San Juan also has some of the nicest Golf Courses in the Caribbean. Return flights averaging £600 in November and December 207 via cheapflights.co.uk and travelup.co.uk

Phi-Phi Island, Thailand

Playa Amor, Mexico

Montego Bay

San Juan, Puerto Rico

TOP 7 - BEACHES TOP 7 - BEACHES

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When visiting London, try and be adventurous and stay in one of London’s unique stay-overs. Here’s a run down of the top 7 Boutique hotels in the UK capital.

TOP 7 LONDON BOUTIQUE HOTELS

7. Apex Temple Court Hotel: 1-2 Serjeants' Inn, Fleet Street, London EC4Y 1LL Located in London City Centre, the Apex prides itself on a friendly and warm welcome. Apex is the first hotel to be built in one of London's Inns of Court. This flagship hotel opened in 2012 to bring a four star contemporary hotel with 184 bedrooms, on-site dining and outdoor courtyard space.

Amenities include; a 24-hour gym with Technogym™ equipment, a Chambers Restaurant serving lunch, dinner, pre-the-atre and bar food. The Chambers Court-yard offering tranquil outdoor space for

3. Mondrian London Hotel: 20 Upper Ground London SE1 9PD Its chic, modern design and quirky sculp-tures throughout are conversation starters. The location is one not to be missed, situ-ated right by the river Thames near South bank. The hotel is suitable for couples and families. It has a spa with a relaxation area, steam room, and a gym. Their 359 rooms will each individually surprise you with a queen bed, rainfall shower, free Wi-Fi and a Flat Screen HDTV and room service!

For a weekend stay, prices for a standard room for two start at £199.00 per night and go up to £1,100 per night for a river view apartment, there are 8 other room options available. www.morganshotel-group.com/mondrian/mondrian-london

2. Amba Hotel Charing Cross: The Strand, London WC2N 5HX The Amba Hotel is a luxury hotel in a grade II listed building. Every aspect of their hotel has been designed for their guests, from business visitors to families alike. They offer a fine dining restau-rant experience and afternoon tea, room service, a fitness centre with gym and work out centre, meeting rooms and a bar/lounge. It’s been described as a shining gem of London. Its great location is near Trafalgar square, Embankment and Char-ing Cross Station for those guests who are keen to explore the city.

For a weekend stay, Friday – Sunday, prices for a standard room start from £176.00 per night and £250 per night for two adults in a Deluxe double room.www.amba-hotel.com

1. 41 Hotel:41 Buckingham Palace Road, Westminster, London SW1W 0PS The exquisite décor will blow you away. This hotel has pulled out all the stops for an enchanting, historical and magical stay. 41 is one of the most admirable hotels in London. They have all your necessities taken care off; room service, wi-fi, dry cleaning, bar/lounge and mini-bar. Two staff members to every guests ensure 5 star service.

For a weekend stay, Monday – Friday, prices srange from £378.00 per night for two adults based on a standard room. www.41hotel.com/

6. The Nadler Soho:10 Carlisle street, Soho, London W1D 3BR This luxury boutique hotel in the Heart of Soho, has 78 rooms, each offering Free Wi-Fi, Air Conditioning, Mini-Kitchen, Microwave, Fridge, Nespresso coffee ma-chine, Brita filtered water, HD LED TV, Pocket sprung bed and a GHD hair-dryer! Its perfect location is ideal for music, fashion and art lovers to explore Central London.

5. The Chesterfield Mayfair London:35 Charles Street, Mayfair, London W1J 5EB Its beautifully appointed and individually designed 94 deluxe guest rooms and 13luxurious suites capture almost any mood that takes your fancy: bold, whimsical, exotic, elegant, or cosy.

Within the bedrooms you’ll find fine fabrics that reflect the pinstripes ofnearby Savile Row, the florals of an English cottage garden, or the vibrancy of the African savannah. All of their guest rooms, suites and public areas have com-plimentary high-speed Wi-Fi. Their hotel offers space for weddings, conferences

4. Hotel Pullman London St Pancras :100-110 Euston Road, London NW1 2AJ The hotel’s own ‘Pullman Welcomers’, make your stay easier and nicer. Staff are happy to help you with a travel tip or restaurant recommendation and any other queries you have throughout your stay. It has 321 rooms, 11 suites and 21 meet-ing rooms. Golden Arrow is their award winning restaurant (1 AA Rosette), with its theatre kitchen & Jasper Grill, offers a range of delicious modern European dishes. Enjoy their wine library, offering a wide range of fine wines by the glass.

Designed to suit all moods, the Golden Arrow bar welcomes you all day long, whether you are in for a relaxing Tea

dining and relaxing. Complimentary still and sparkling water, free digital newspa-per downloads, a shoe shining service and a free Apex duck with every stay. Their very helpful website has a live chat option that pops up as a duck, in the right hand corner to ask any questions. A weekend stay, Friday – Sunday, starts from £188.10 per night for a City Double Room up to £323.10 per night for the Master Suite, with 4 other room options in-between. https://www.apexhotels.co.uk/apex-temple-court-hotel

For a weekend stay, Friday – Sunday, prices start from £491.30 for two people booking a small double room. For a king/twin room, prices start from £559.30 for two people. https://www.nadlerhotels.com/the-nadler-soho.html

and meetings. Their services include in-room qualified masseur and beauty therapists at any time of the day or night. For a weekend stay, Friday – Sunday, Prices start from £375.00 for two nights for two guests in a Superior King room and up to £660.00 per night for two guests in a Junior sweet. https://www.chester-fieldmayfair.com/

experience, a healthy lunch, or just to put the icing on the cake to a fabulous dining experience in the Golden Arrow Restau-rant. They have a connectivity room for visitors to use, along with fax machines and copy and print facilities available. They offer dry cleaning and ironing ser-vices for guests and have an indoor gym and sauna for your use. For a weekend stay, Friday – Sunday, prices start from £491.50 for two guests in a Deluxeroom with a king size bed. http://www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-5309-pull-man-london-st-pancras/index.shtml

EDITOR’S CHOICE

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5 MIRACULOUS TIPS FOR BUSINESS TRAVEL PACKING

STYLE STYLE

Whether you are nipping to Paris on the Eurostar for a lunch meeting or flying long-haul toHong Kong for a 3 day conference, the packing aim is to simplify. Plan your outfits, considerthe weather/climate and pack the minimum.Easier said than done. However, with some top tips and Winser London’s

Unless your trip is for more than a week, you can manage with just a car-ry-on bag. Pack cleverly and save time and angst by keeping your belongings with you on board.

Tip 1:

Start with your shoes – these will be the heaviest things you pack and need to be comfortable if they are to be worn all day or if you need to walk any distance. Aim to pack only two pairs in total and consider evening events – include a heel. We love the comfort offlat Russell & Bromley shoes for day and the luxury of Manolo Blahnik heels for evening – adding a sophisti-cated edge to an outfit.

Team your Manolos with a special Winser London evening dress that makes you look fabulous and feel even better.

new Autumn Miracle Collection front-of- mind, it really can be easy.Founder of Winser London, Kim Winser OBE, identified a gap in the market for luxurious quality clothes at sensible prices - her desire is to offer women well-cut pieces cut from highquality fabrics and yarns that not only flatter their figures and give them confidence, but also feel great. Clothes

that are so comfortable her clients can get on with their busy lives and look as good at the end of the day as they did when they got dressed – unruffled afterboard meetings or long haul flights.Take a look at her website for the solu-tions to your business wear problems atwww.winserlondon.com.

Miracle 3/4 Sleeve Hourglass Colour Block Dress £135Available in rich berry/orange & teal/duck egg

Emma Miracle Zip Dress £135Available in rich burgundy, midnight navy, camel & Winser blue

Manolo Blahnik ‘Mystery’ black suede and patent buckled leather pumps £680

Miracle Shift Dress with Guipure Lace £135Available in plum, midnight navy, stone & black

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Tip 2:Invest in quality, easy to wear, comfortable, flattering dresses and separates that are versatile enough to take you from day-time meetings to dinner. Wins-er London’s Miracle Collection

is designed to do just this – and is cut from their exclusive Ponte di Roma double stretch jersey which has the most miraculous results, hence the name their customers gave it.

Grace Miracle Dress £150 Available in duck egg, plum, black, midnight navy, mid grey, Winser blue & coffee.

Miracle Pencil Skirt £89Available in burgundy, black, midnight navy, camel & duck egg

Miracle Colour Block Pencil Skirt £89Available in coffee/black and plum/midnight navy

Miracle A Line Skirt £89Available in black & rich berry

Miracle Trousers £99Available in black & midnight navy

Tip 3:Decide if your base neutral will be black or navy. Pack basics in this colour such as shoes, tights, a simple silk top, a flattering pair of trousers, a comfortable, well-cut jacket, a coat.

Tip 4:Focus on simple, easy outfits such as statement dresses that only need shoes and a handbagas accessories.

Tip 4:Choose an outfit for the journey that you can wear to meetings or evenings out too.If you are travelling Business or First Class, a neat dress that looks tailored but is secretlystretchy and super-comfortable is the perfect answer. The Winser London Miracle dresses seem impossible to crease too, so you’ll look fabulous when you arrive.

If you prefer a more informal look while en route, opt for the super-comfortable WinserLondon leggings, which are cut from a high quality woven fabric with added stretch forwearability. Team with a Winser pure cash-mere or merino jumper and you’ll look the part and feel wonderfully relaxed.

www.winserlondon.comBoutiques at Gerrards Cross, Marlow, Rossiters of Bath and select John Lewis

and House of Fraser stores

Miracle Dress £135Available in rich berry, duck egg, midnight navy & black

Miracle Shift Dress £135Available in rich burgundy, midnight navy, black, dark grey & stone

Miracle Colour Block Flared Dress £135Available in plum/mid-night navy & coffee/black

Miracle Leggings £89Available in black, midnight navy, coffee & rich berry

STYLE STYLE

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALSIt’s important to pack for your well-being and safety when embarking on a journey. Pick pockets are not uncommon where ever you are in the world. They strike and cause unnecessary extra work and waste your time. When we heard about The Riut range of back-packs, that are specifically designed for safety while you travel, we were impressed. Your valuables go in a compartment which is accessible only when you take the bag off, as it’s located on the part of the bag that rests against the wearer’s back. This design prevents any pickpockets getting near your wallet, passport or mobile phone, making travel safer. For luxury travel bags and larger travel loads, but still a good fit for hand luggage on an aircraft, the Billingham travel and leisure bag is the perfect choice. Another area we overlook during travel is oral hygiene. Often we experience a rush of excitement and follow our impulsive

BILLINGHAM TRAVEL AND LEISURE BAG

Recognised worldwide for its precision-made, tough and weather-proof camera bags, rucksacks and laptop cases, Billingham has ventured into the leisure market with the introduction of a new range of elegant travel bags. As with all Billingham products, they are designed and made in England.The Billingham Leisure Collection includes:• Billingham Weekender bag - £225• Billingham Overnighter bag - £185• Billingham Thomas briefcase/laptop bag - £225• Billingham Hadley One all-purpose bag - £265

WE PREDICT A “RIUT”!

RiutBag, pronounced ‘riot’ stands for Revolution in User Thinking and brings an entirely new concept to the wearable technology and travel industries. Essentially, Riut is a sturdy, highly durable anti-theft bag. All zips and openings to the rucksacks are against your back as opposed to on the outside, with a state-of-the-art storage layout allowing you to safely pack laptops, phones and other valuables and access them on the go.

RiutBags are available globally from https://www.riut.co.uk/ and are available in Navy and Black, with R25 (pictured) only in black.

TROPIKA SKIN CLEANSING OIL £17.99Tropika is hand-luggage friendly at 100mls and has a travel hook. It’s made with superior virgin coconut oil and sunflower and olive oils. It’s also a two-in-one so a perfect travel companion, as it melts away make-up with just a few drops (the silky oil emulsifies upon contact with water) and it also hydrates the skin so it glows. It can also be used as a facial, by massaging in to the skin and then using a warm cloth to remove it.

ULTRA DEXLeading Dentist Dr Mervyn Druian comments: “Many of my patients tell me how their confidence is knocked down by the insecurity of bad breath. Daily protection with an effective solution is an essential way to gain back fresh breath confidence - you should think of it just like antiperspirant or SPF! Everyone should also be aware of the bad breath triggers and act quickly to prevent further issues.”

With daily protection from UltraDEX’s Daily Oral Rinse in combination with the Low-Abrasion toothpaste, and the Fresh Breath Oral Spray as an on-the-go solution, none of these triggers need to falter your confidence today.

Don’t let bad breath hold you back, be ready for each new day with UltraDEX.

Please find more information please visit www.ultradex.co.uk

• UltraDEX Fresh Breath Oral Spray RRP £3.50• UltraDEX Low-Abrasion Toothpaste RRP £6.15• UltraDEX Daily Oral Rinse RRP £5.10 (250ml)Available from Boots, Amazon and other selected retailers and online.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

to explore and forget about our breath! Talking to new people is part of travelling, and feeling good and having fresh breath is a necessity. Long flights, long car rides and bus journeys are inevitable during travel trips, as is tasting new foods. With Ultra Dex’s new travel size Oral Spray we found an effective and easy to use method to eliminate the problem of bad breath. The skin on our face is another important factor to remember, and to look after when we are traveling. The change of air and pressure in a aircraft cabin, or the wind against your face on a ferry ride or being underground on the Eurostar, will each effect our skin in their own way. This facial cleanser from Tropika is travel friendly and has many benefits for your skin. It’s important to look after the little things and the little things all together create a happier bigger picture.

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COULD YOU TAKE ON THE

PANAMA CANAL CHALLENGE?

UK adventurers will take on killer crocodiles, man-eating jaguars and lethal snakes over four

days along the Panama Canal next summer

Love the outdoors and a challenge? How about a trip of a lifetime for adventurers and fitness

enthusiasts in a magical location?

Next summer sees the launch of the brand new ‘Panama Canal Challenge 2018’ adventure holiday spread over four days along the Panama Canal and dedicated to outdoors lovers, adventurers and those who love a ‘mud run’ race with a difference.

Launched by UK firm Rat Race Adventure Sports, it is tipped to put the Panama Canal on the adventure tourism map.

Due to take place in the sweltering heat of Central America next summer (exact dates will be finalised in September), which represents the evolution of adventure races as UK

participants gather together to seek ever wilder, yet achievable, physical challenges.

And whoever does reach the finish line

first could also be a world record holder - as the 48 mile long Panama Canal zone, one of the world’s most famous trade routes, has yet to be traversed on foot.

The four-day escape will see up to 200 fun and fitness loving Brits gather and celebrate all things adventure while taking part in the race. The festival is the brainchild of Rat Race founder Jim Mee, based in York. He expects interest in the central American experience to be high, with the event coming as part of a four day adventure travel tour.

He explains: “Make no mistake, this is a true adventure holiday. But it’s also a challenge most people can achieve. We’re not throwing competitors into the Amazon basin, where they are a seven-day trek to the nearest hospital! This is a week-long trip including travel and something truly epic - a celebration of the spirit of adventure.”

Part of the route follows the famous canal itself and part of it goes into pristine primary jungle. Other sections will need to be navigated via kayak as competitors take to a crocodile-infested lake in the central section of the Canal zone. Meanwhile racers will also cut a narrow swathe through otherwise impenetrable forest.

Jim adds: “All participants will be

given a thorough advice pack and health and safety is a priority. But yes, this is a trip for those looking for something really unforgettable. There’s a growing body of travellers out there who want to push the envelope, and it’s not necessarily about the arduousness of the challenge, it’s about going to places they would never have dreamed of going and achieving something truly memorable. They will be proud of their accomplishment and will literally never forget this type of experience.

“Everyone’s heard of Panama, but

not many people from the UK have been there, unless you work in banking or shipping, even though it’s relatively easy to fly there. And the Panama Canal is such an exotic setting; there’s jungle, there’s lake, there’s crocodiles, and there’s the really cool urban landscape of Panama City. It’s an untapped adventure zone!”.

Costs: Approx £2,000 which includes

transfers, hotels, tours, and the festival party. Flights are not included - flights from London to Panama, via Madrid, cost around £350 per person and it’s also only a three-hour flight to Panama from Miami.

Proposed itinerary:

Day 1 – Arrive in Panama, transfer to hotel in Panama City. Optional sea kayaking excursion or canal tour.Day 2 – Transit of the entire canal in a boat, with briefing, registration and kit checks for competitorsDay 3 – The event: Bus to the start at Agua Clara Locks. 11km run. 20km kayak paddle. 35km jungle trek/ road run. Finish Miraflores Locks near Panama City.Day 4 – Rest day followed by potential for further excursions. End of event festival partyFor dates and to find out more go to: http://ratrace.com

THE ACTIVE CHOICE THE ACTIVE CHOICE

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36 HOURS EXPLORING NEW YORK CITY

WORDS: ALEX HOLMAN

36 HOURS IN NEW YORK

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DAY 1

These days you can find amazing deals on flights across the pond. In just eight hours, the same amount of time it takes to get a good nights sleep, you could be standing on American soil in fabulous New York City.

My hotel of choice is The Mark which is located on the Upper East Side. It is just a stone’s throw from Central Park and is known as ‘New York’s most boldly lavish hotel’. I promise I haven’t only recommended this hotel because of the divine black and white striped marble floors. If you like macarons left on your pillow, complimentary use of bikes to ride around Central Park with and the most amazing shower you’ll ever have in your life, then I think you’ll enjoy it here too.

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day and on this day there’ll be a lot of walking so let’s get fed! On Madison Avenue, around the corner from The Mark, is a restaurant called Sant Ambroeus where you can eat anytime from breakfast through to dinner. They serve authentic Italian food with a side of bustling New York atmosphere.

The regulars are always talking about the perfectly made coffee, the delicious Italian pastries, which are displayed in a mouth watering fashion, and the freshly made small delectable sandwiches which you can eat-in or takeaway. They have dairy free milk available here, because coffee should be enjoyed by everyone.

Now that you’ve filled yourself up it’s time to walk it off. First stop is the Metropolitan Museum of Arts (MMA) which is a short walk from Sant Ambroeus and houses over 5,000 years of art from around the world. A must see for art lovers!

The Met Museum is conveniently located on the outskirts of Central Park so after meandering around the Museum for a couple of hours you can get outside and take a long walk around the park. The lower portion of the park is full of playgrounds, a vintage carousel and lots of green natural spaces like Sheep Meadow, the Hallett Nature Sanctuary and the Pond. There are various walking tours available if you feel like walking with a purpose.

After all this walking it’s time to eat again. You could opt for choosing a serene spot in the park and bringing your own picnic, or if you feel like being waited on I suggest a visit to Tavern on the Green, a restaurant situated inside Central Park, adorned with fairy lights and with a very green view. The desserts here come highly recommended, in particular the lava cake with a peanut butter filling.

After lunch it’s time to go a bit deeper into the city with a trip to Grand Central Terminal where, hidden within, is a ‘whispering wall’. If you are with a friend you can stand on opposite corners of the large entryway, face the corner and whisper something to the wall. On the other side of the building your friend should be able to hear you as though you’re standing next to them. The experience is quite surreal and a lot of fun!

From Grand central Station it’s a short walk to the Rockerfeller Center where we’re going to travel up to the 70th floor and see the whole city from one spot at Top of The Rock Observation Deck. Try to let go of your fear of heights up here and enjoy the 360° unobstructed views. You can see some of the city’s most prominent landmarks including the Chrysler Building, Brooklyn Bridge, the Hudson River, Central Park and the Empire State Building.

Hopefully the sun will be starting to go down now and you might catch the sun setting over the New York City skyline.

Now the sun has gone down it’s time to see the famous lights of New York City! A few blocks away from The Rockerfeller Center is Times Square where you can see the iconic sights

of countless big screen movie moments. If you’re feeling hungry you can find cuisine from all over the world in Restaurant Row, however I would recommend Becco. Becco serves both lunch and dinner 7 days a week, the food is great (I highly suggest the Sinfonia di Paste) and they have an extensive $29 wine list which, for New York City, is great value!

Becco is conveniently located in the theatre district, so after dinner it’s time to head to one of the many theatre’s New York is famous for to watch a show. Your feet deserve a rest anyway. Enjoy to be dazzled!

DAY 2

We’re up early and it’s time to grab some fresh juices from the Mark Juice Bar and take one of those iconic yellow taxi cabs you’ve seen so many times in the movies because we’re heading to Lower Manhattan to visit the World Trade Center site. After the tragic events of 9/11 this area has turned, once again, into a vibrant neighbourhood full of new hotels, shops and restaurants.

There are 3 main parts to the World Trade Center site; The National September 11 Memorial, The National September 11 Memorial Museum and The 9/11 Tribute Museum. Depending on how much time you think you’ll take looking around you can either see them all, or choose one or two which you’d most like to see.

The National September 11 Memorial site is a tribute to the nearly 3,000 people who died in the terror attacks on September 11, 2001. There are twin pools which sit where the Twin Towers used to stand and feature the largest man-made waterfalls in North America. The names of the almost 3,000 victims of the terrorist attacks surround the Memorial pools.

The National September 11 Memorial Museum displays artifacts linked to the events of 9/11, where you can learn details of the attacks and their aftermath, and also the global impact the event has had.

9/11 Tribute Museum is a place where you can hear stories of the survivors who experienced the 9/11 attacks first hand. You can get guided tours from survivors, family members and first responders or you can walk around yourself and view the visual narratives told through the exhibits.

Another very interesting building worth seeing from around this area is the Westfield World Trade Center. It reminds me of a bird skeleton from the outside. Whatever your take, it’s a truly spectacular building. But we’re not eating there, because we haven’t come to New York to eat inside a shopping mall!

It’s time for brunch, and we’re heading to Nolita (short for ‘North of Little Italy’), a little area in Manhattan, because there’s a great food place called Egg Shop we’re going to eat at. ‘What’s on the menu?’ you ask.Well... Eggs! Eggs are included in almost every meal on the menu and I do recommend you get some form of egg dish. (Please don’t be the person who goes in there and asks for something without egg). Everyone who goes recommends something different so I think it’s safe to say that everything on the menu is worth a try.

That’s it! Our 36 hours in New York City are up! Please be sure to research before you go, some of the restaurants and exhibits mentioned in this article require tickets or bookings made in advance. If you visit New York and go to any of the places mentioned here do let us know how you found them!

They serve authentic Italian food with a side of bustling

New York atmosphere.

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BRIGHTONANNMARIE FRANKLAND SPENDS 36 HOURS CHECKING THE CITY OUT

Brighton encapsulates the British love for the seaside whilst making a statement of being a cultural and diverse asset for the UK tourist industry. Annmarie Frankland spent 36 hours checking the city out

Day OneOur guesthouse, the New Steine, was well located near the sea front in an elegant square. We were warmly welcomed and escorted to our well located room. The reception staff had arranged parking around the corner in a pay and display bay. The New Steine is an elegant and fashionable five-storey Georgian Town house in central Brighton, has a contemporary design that exudes warmth and style, with a hint of French influence. At exceptional value and as an alternative to expensive hotel accommodation in Brighton, it is suited to both business travellers and tourists alike.

We quickly unpacked and decided to take advantage of the beautiful weather and get out and explore. It had been many years since I had been to Brighton and I was looking forward to reacquainting myself with this iconic city. We headed out into the city and walked along the seafront past the elegant Georgian houses and took in the views of the pier and breathed the fresh sea air.

Just before the pier is Sea Life Brighton, the oldest operating aquarium in the world from the coastline to the depths of the

ocean. We discovered a magical underwater world filled with a dazzling array of amazing creatures. Every step revealed something new, from face to face encounters with sharks to a hands-on rock pool experience. Sea Life is a “must see” in Brighton for children and adults, young and old.

After a walk through the famous Lanes we popped into the Chicketers’ public house, a cosy Victorian bar with a warm welcome for a well deserved drink where we able to get our bearings before continuing through the Lanes then back into the town.

In the centre of Brighton is The Royal Pavilion: The spectacular seaside palace of the Prince Regent (George IV) transformed by John Nash between 1815 and 1823 into one of the most dazzling and exotic buildings in the British Isles. The Royal Pavilion houses furniture and works of art including original pieces lent by HM The Queen and a magnificent display of Regency silver-gilt. The Royal Pavilion Tearoom, with its fabulous balcony, overlooks the Pavilion gardens, which have also been returned to their original Regency splendour. For those with an eye for the exotic and elegant will enjoy a wander though this beautiful building.

After retuning to The New Steine for a quick coffee we then headed off back to the Lanes for a well deserved meal. We chose Food for Friends - Brighton’s original vegetarian restaurant

Brighton Beach

The Cricketers Pub at night - Photo by Adam BronkhorstBrighton Pier - Photo by Adam Bronkhorst

New Road - Photo by Adam Bronkhorst

since 1981. Food for Friends is Brighton’s award-winning vegetarian restaurant in the historic South Lanes.

The ethos is tasty, affordable and honest vegetarian, vegan and gluten free cooking using the freshest produce, totally homemade, whilst supporting local suppliers where possible. We were welcomed by the manager Mady Chessar who was able to advise on possible choices. I had the excellent vegetarian raviolli with courgettes and my guest had the vegetarian Christmas dinner, accompanied by a 2015 Rioja Tempranillo. Service and ambience were warm , welcoming and efficient and the food was of a very high standard catering for vegetarians and vegans.

Back at The Steine we enjoyed a night cap and coffee in the bar and then retired for a good night’s sleep.

Day 2We were up early and ready for breakfast where the menu was extensive, catering for vegetarians and meat eaters. I chose poached eggs, toast, marmalade, fruit juice and coffee and my guest had the very generous full English with all the trimmings. Then it was back for a bracing walk along the promenade past the famous Grand Hotel to the British Airways i360.

To be honest, I was not looking forward to the experience as I am rather squeamish about heights, however I was very pleasantly surprised. The ascent was smooth and relaxed with fantastic views of Brighton, the coast line and out to sea. For those wishing to celebrate the trip Nyetimber English sparkling wine is served as an option. I was happy just to enjoy “the flight” of 450ft and enjoyed breathtaking 360° views from the world’s tallest moving observation tower and the world’s first vertical cable car, conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects, creators of the London Eye.

By now it was time to head home so it was back to the New Steine for a quick snack and chat with the staff and then check out. There was just time for my guest to have a much needed hair cut at GA’s Hair Studio where the service was friendly and excellent value.

It was then back to the car. Reluctant to go home we took a quick detour to have a wander around the Brighton Marina and embarked on a leisurely drive home, refreshed, rested and reacquainted with Brighton.

For those of you with more time to spare there is much more to explore in Brighton. Getting around is simple as it is a compact city and easy to explore on foot or by bus. Make time to visit the city villages too including Hove; famous for its colourful beach huts, Regency architecture and Rottingdean, a picturesque, traditional English village

There are many award-winning places to eat and drink in Brighton & Hove including pubs and restaurants catering for all tastes from classic fish ‘n’ chips to creative vegetarian restaurants and even a zero waste restaurant.Our visit was organised for us by Visit Brighton who were most helpful with advise for a quick value for money short stay in Brighton. I will definitely back in Brighton very soon!

Getting thereTravelling to Brighton is easy as the city is just a 60 minute train ride from London and only 30 minutes train ride from Gatwick Airport. Brighton Station is right in the city centre so you will be able to smell the sea as soon as you step off the train.We left Chiswick in West London by car on a bright sunny winter morning and headed south on the M25 then took the A23 into Brighton.

New Steine HotelGuest House10 - 11 New Steine, Brighton, East Sussex, BN2 1PB

01273 681546

Rooms From £26.25

www.newsteinehotel.com/www.foodforfriends.com/www.visitbrighton.com

Twitter: @LoveBrightonFacebook: Love-BrightonInstagram: visit.brighton

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THE SPLENDOUR OF PETWORTH

A soiree to the Sussex Downs leads to an unexpected artistic discovery, a haven of antiquity and the finest starter ever tasted.

A mere 20 miles or so from London, the Sussex Downs start their rolling journey to the south coast, adorned with gorgeous hamlets, villages and towns each with their own unique attractions, from wisteria clad cottages to refined English taverns.

With the sun beaming down, temperatures soar as I make my way to a little place just west of Petworth, The Halfway Bridge, a hamlet just off the A272.

The Halfway Bridge, a former watermill turned coaching inn, is a delightful pub with rooms that has responded to the changing times becoming an eatery of note. Let’s face it, to maintain an actual pub in the old sense is difficult at the best of times but in a sparsely populated area, even more so. The accommodation on offer is set in the property’s converted stables surrounding a private garden, backing on to a lovely coppice bustling with wildlife.

The current owners have gambled and won with a fantastic offering; a cosy inn with local ales (nearest brewery is less than ¼ of a mile away) and a traditional menu with an exquisite twist – the starter I had here was the best starter I have ever, ever had....ever. Full stop.The Halfway Bridge is an ideal base for walkers with well mapped and signposted routes across the countryside, offering stunning views along well trodden tracks, making it that easier for those who are

looking to enjoy a carefree ramble or gentle stroll. But its proximity to Petworth and its magnificent eponymous estate is the undoubted main attraction.

Petworth House is a grade 1 listed property and estate, now maintained by the National Trust, and was formerly the southern home of the Percy family, the Earls of Northumberland.

The house and estate is open to the public and has one of the most comprehensive art collections privately acquired over the years. Today’s building houses 19 oil paintings by J. M. W. Turner (some owned by the family, some by Tate Britain), who was a regular visitor to Petworth, paintings by Van Dyck, carvings by Grinling Gibbons and Ben Harms, classical and neoclassical sculptures (including ones by John Flaxman and John Edward Carew), and wall and ceiling paintings by Louis Laguerre. There is also a terrestrial globe by Emery Molyneux, believed to be the only one in the world in its original 1592 state. The house was used in the 2014 Mike Leigh film Mr Turner.The gardens and grounds of the house, known as Petworth Park, were designed and landscaped by Capability Brown and allow for visitors to make use of the significant area with various paths across the estate.

Petworth itself typifies the perceived ideal of an English town; narrow streets hark back to a medieval layout and the buildings,

although modern in look, obviously retain their original design and features. There is an antique outlet at almost every turn, and for those seeking the odd curios, take your time and freely browse what can only be described as an antique haven.One major attraction in the town, Petworth Cottage Museum in High Street, is a museum of domestic life for poor estate workers in the town in about 1910. At that time the cottage was the home of Mrs. Cummings, a seamstress, whose drunkard husband had been a farrier in the Royal Irish Hussars and on the Petworth estate. An insight into a life of servitude, but it also outlines how estates of the time provided many benefits for those attached to it.

With Petworth just down the road, a couple of nights at the Half Way Bridge Inn is a great way to spend a weekend or a quiet few days during the week. Let the pace of life slip into neutral and enjoy one of the most beautiful settings in Southern England.

Where to stay: The Halfway Bridge, Lodsworth West Sussex GU28 9BP http://www.halfwaybridge.co.uk/. Prices start from £145 per room per night including a full English breakfast. For reservations call: 01798 861 281

What to do: Petworth House and Petworth Park; Petworth Cottage Musem

Petworth House By Martinvl - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=48847286

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TAKING A DIFFERENT TURN TO DISCOVER

YORKSHIRE IN STYLEArriving into York to temperatures of 26 degrees and clear skies, it felt like nature knew we were here to enjoy two

days of luxurious travel and was already spoiling us.

WORDS: CARMEL THOMASON

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Over the past five years, I’ve visited this city many times, having worked on a series of books with the Archbishop of York, John Sentamu. I’m familiar with its grand Victorian station and the short walk along the city walls, across the river Ouse and through the narrow shopping streets towards York Minster. Given an hour or so spare, I’d often take a right down High Petergate towards the Shambles, the wonderfully preserved Medieval street that makes it on every tourist’s must see list. If you take a left from the same spot, in a couple of minutes you come to Bootham Bar, the old defensive bastion for the north road, where you can join the wall to walk around the back of the Minster. Another five-minute walk, in the same direction, brings you to The Grange Hotel.

In my many visits, I’d never once turned left. Like most tourists, I stayed roughly within the city walls, which is why The Grange Hotel has designed a packaged to encourage guests to explore a bit further afield and experience something of the wider county of Yorkshire.

That said, the hotel itself, although slightly off the beaten track, is at the same time very accessible. There is a more direct walking route from the station, which takes no more than 15 minutes, crossing the river on the pedestrian path of the railway bridge and along a residential street of grand, four-storey terraces. Indeed, most buildings in York have an air of grandeur about them, and if you keep your eyes peeled for the blue plaques you’ll find a piece of history and a story behind many of them.

The Grange Hotel, a Grade II listed Regency townhouse, has its own tale to tell. It was built in 1829 by a wealthy ecclesiastical family who occupied it until 1924 when it was converted into flats to house their expanding family. During World War II, the flats were occupied by women service personnel who used its brick vaulted cellar as an air raid shelter. In the years that followed it remained in multiple-occupancy until 1989 when its current owners restored it to one large townhouse, which they opened as a luxury four-star hotel.

The feel of it now, with its welcoming sitting room where you can pick up a newspaper and sink into the deep cushions of a sofa, is of a home, albeit a luxurious one. There’s a nod to the city’s famous racing tradition with commemorative scarves given to race winners displayed on the walls of the main staircase, some of which are almost as old as the house itself. The old cellar and its exposed brickwork is still there too, now The Ivy Brasserie, a cosy, AA 2 Rosette restaurant, aptly named after the creeping greenery that covers most of the building.

Fitting with the Country House ambience, the hotel’s Discover Yorkshire experience includes a four-and-a-half-hour chauffeur driven tour of the surrounding countryside in an immaculately polished Range Rover Sport. Our chauffeur and guide for the afternoon is Howard, owner of the Yorkshire Chauffeur Co, which has paired with the hotel to offer this two-day package.

Dressed in a checked, Brook Taverner shirt and Moon Tweed jacket, Howard is every inch the Yorkshire gent, placing a small step on the gravel drive to make it easier and more graceful for us to get into the car. Turning left again out of the hotel we head away from the city and north on the A19 into the surrounding countryside. Within minutes we’re surrounded by farm land where the elevated seated position of the Range Rover allows us to peer over the hedgerows and stone walls. The land is largely flat and the soil here is rich, used mainly as arable land, growing barley, wheat, rape seed, carrots and potatoes. We drive through Sutton-on-the-Forest, a small village mentioned in the Domesday book. Although Howard is quick to point out the tour is designed to be relaxing and not a history lesson, it’s hard not to get

drawn in to the fascinating past of the area through which we’re travelling.

Having grown-up on a farm and lived in the surrounding villages for most of his life, Howard knows the area in a deep way that can’t be gleaned from a guide book alone. Even his name merges seamlessly into the landscape as we weave through the Howardian Hills to the left, an area of outstanding natural beauty, towards Castle Howard.

Many will recognise this magnificent 18th century house from its use as a TV and film set, most recently for ITV’s Victoria and from 1981 and 2008 in the TV and film adaptations of Brideshead Revisited. We spent two hours here, but you could easily spend a whole day and still not get around all its 1000 acres of land. It soon becomes clear that these four-and-a-half hours are only going to whet the appetite to discover more of this beautiful county.

The afternoon is designed to be flexible. If you spot somewhere you’d like to stop you can get out to explore, without worrying about where to park. Similarly, if you want to extend your trip you can, and it seems there is no limit to this, as Howard tells us of one American couple on a tour of England’s cathedrals, who used The Grange as a base from which to travel in style as far as Durham in one direction and Peterborough in another.

Our winding route takes us past Byland Abbey, Newburgh Priory, Hovingham and the market town of Helmsley, where we stop for a mosey around its quirky independent stores and a local dairy’s ice-cream. Once again, I list it as a place to return with more time.

Before we head back, Howard pulls in next to a grazing field in Crayke, where we look across miles of the farmland to the towers of York Minster on the horizon. It’s a view carefully preserved by city planners for centuries, who seemingly have

always known the secret of turning left to enjoy it.

The Discover Yorkshire Experience costs £498 (based on two sharing at £249 per person). The package includes two nights at the four star, The Grange Hotel, York, staying in a Standard Room with full Yorkshire breakfast each morning; a three-course dinner in the Ivy Brassiere on the first evening; a 4.5-hour tour with The Yorkshire Chauffeur Company; entry tickets to Castle Howard and a North Yorkshire Cookbook, which features a recipe from The Grange Hotel’s Head Chef, Will Nicol. Upgrade to a Premier Room for £538 total/£269 pp. Prices quoted are for Sunday to Friday stays. A supplement of £30 per room is charged on Saturday. The hotel also offers a bespoke chauffeur driven tour and all tours can be extended for an additional cost of £45 per hour. For details call 01904 644744 or visit www.grangehotel.co.uk

Fitting with the Country House ambience, the

hotel’s Discover Yorkshire experience includes a four-and-a-half-hour

chauffeur driven tour of the surrounding countryside in an immaculately polished Range

Rover Sport.

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ISLE OF WIGHT

One neglected ‘out of season’ gem of this island of ours is the little cousin we know as the Isle of Wight. Paul Williams finds the quiet season has a more than appealing, restful, comforting

side that caters well for a weary Londoner.

WORDS: PAUL WILLIAMS

AN ISLE OF TRANQUILITY - THE ISLE OF WIGHT MAKES FOR A PERFECT GETAWAY

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The last time I was in the Isle of Wight I was waiting for my GCSE results, seems a lifetime ago now, but the one thing I remember about that holiday in particular though was the sunshine. For two weeks, the sun never let up, the heat was soothed by the cool sea breeze and Ventor was my world for what seemed an eternity. It was one of the best holidays of my childhood, hands down, and even though I spent the £50 I saved for the holiday in one day at the arcades, I felt stupendously rich!

So, 30 years later I find myself and partner visiting again.

We got to Portsmouth 1 ½ hours after leaving Richmond on a rather unseasonal warm, sunny March afternoon. The journey down the M3 was flawless; light traffic and no major snarl at Winchester which often leads to unnecessary caffeine overloads at the wilting, non charismatic services. Boarding the ferry, run by Wightlink, was made easy by the almost Swiss precision of the loadmasters who have this tuned to a fine art. I remember chronic congestion in this very terminal as a kid, but this was pure genius. The only downside was a couple of boy racers who seemed to be playing a game called ‘see who has the loudest exhaust WHILST BEING STATIONARY’!

There is something magical about travelling by sea. You feel that you are on a journey, about to embark on something special, no matter how short the jaunt – in this case 45 minutes – but I’m sure you catch my drift. Commuters to the mainland and vice versa may have their own opinion, but take it from me, it’s exciting! The resplendent Solent and the cloudless sky gave a perfect backdrop to our enjoyable jolly down to the Isle of Wight. We stayed in the village of Seaview which sits to the eastern end of the town of Ryde, a unique village with extensive views across the Solent. Of the popular resorts on the Island, Seaview has a reputation for being upmarket, and as such is very popular with tourists. Presently, it has the second most expensive property on the Isle of Wight, with Ventnor topping the charts. During the summer months the village becomes a busy centre for sailing and water sports and although warm for the time of year, it was chilly with a bitter wind whipping up from the shore.

Our hotel for 2 nights was the eponymous Seaview Hotel & restaurant, a quaint, family run establishment which evidently serves as a hub of the local community with

its popular pub, The Pump Bar.

After a warm welcome we were shown to our room. Well, actually more a garden cottage, an annexe to the hotel that offered privacy whilst maintaining all the trappings of a hotel suite. I loved this; a great use of space that facilitates those who want a bit of quiet without hiding away in an anti-social shell. Very high standard of design and interior, a compact and bijou little wonder that I feel the hotel should give a big shout about. Maybe they do...

We had a reservation for the in-house restaurant, with a bespoke menu by head Chef Bruce Theobald. Bruce began his career in the Michelin starred kitchens of the Grosvenor House and the Capital Hotel and has worked alongside many talented chefs including Richard Corrigan, Philip Britten and most recently Billy Reid at Danesfield House. The Restaurant has been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand for creative, affordable food for two years running, so I was anticipating a pretty good bit of scran. I was not to be disappointed.

I don’t really go on too much about food as it’s all subjective, but our meal was without fault, all cooked with obvious passion and, above all, tasted great. This restaurant is definitely one to watch. Bruce has a menu that won’t have you hiding away and seeking the norm. Rather, you’ll feel bold as brass to experiment with his fusions of what you may be used to, and something new.

What’s great about Seaview is its location – it makes a great base to explore the Island. The world famous Needles, Cowes, Newport are all within easy distance.

The next day, we made our way to Sandown and on to Ventor, a town blessed with a micro climate that during the summer sees temperatures hitting 30c and host to a variety of plant native to the Mojave Desert - The Yucca Schidigera. The plant, that also goes by the names of the Spanish Dagger or the Mojave Yucca, flowered for the first time at Ventnor Botanic Garden a few years back. The garden

cannot be missed, a fantastic collection of sub tropical flora and fauna it its natural state.

Ventor typifies the Victorian ideal of the English seaside resort, but aside, to be honest, looking a little tired, Grandiose buildings with modern twists adorn the town, with a seafront that really is Ventor’s true attraction. Fancy take-away lobster and chips? Visit the Haven Fishery on the pier and scoff the day’s best catch from the local fishing boats. And of course a trip to this town is not complete without a stop off at the Spyglass public house, blessed with stunning views across the solent. It gets busy so prepare to get nestled in!

Given our short time on the island and the fact we were spoilt with the weather, we decided to spend most of the day in Ventor, rounding off with a drive around the island before heading back to Seaview.

Out of season, the Isle of Wight is a perfect getaway for a few days rest and recoup. I would recommend a minimum stay of 3 nights so you get a good 2 days to explore the island, but more importantly, take advantage of the climate that Queen Vic and Albert saw fit to give Royal approval to. Embrace the seemingly care free, almost plodding pace of life that could easily hark back to the bygone era of quintessential British holiday making. IOW, I respect thee. Special thanks to Phil Wilson, Manager of the Seview Hotel - your help when our car had all but given up was more than admirable!

Isle Of Wight - Getting there:

The Isle of Wight is the place to be and Wightlink is the way to get there. Whether travelling by foot or by car, Wightlink’s three mainland ferry ports are perfectly placed for easy access to the Isle of Wight. In addition to convenient connections there are great facilities for families taking an escape to the Island. Following a major refurbishment, the family friendly St Clare has a toddler play area and DVD bean bag area to keep the younger seafarers occupied, whilst adults can relax in the comfortable seating areas. Passengers can also purchase snacks and coffee from the on-board Greggs and Costa while taking in the views of the Solent. With plenty of things to see, do and enjoy on the Isle of Wight all year round, for first time visitors and for old friends, there is no better way to start a break than on a Wightlink Ferry. St Clare has also recently opened a new on-board shop, Wight Taste, dedicated to selling products supplied or produced by local Isle of Wight companies.

Routes and fares: Prices from £61.50 return for a short stay, travelling outbound between 8am and 9:59am and return 4pm and 5:59pm

Portsmouth Car Ferry Terminal - Fishbourne Car Ferry Terminal: from 45 minutes

Lymington Car Ferry Terminal - Yarmouth Car Ferry Terminal: from 40 minutes

Portsmouth Harbour Railway Station - Ryde Pier Head: from 22 minutes

To book, please visit http://www.wightlink.co.uk/

Place to stay:The Seaview Hotel & Restaurant, The High Street, Seaview Isle of Wight PO34 5EX

t: 01983 612 711 w: http://www.seaviewhotel.co.uk/

You must visit:Osborne House was built between 1845 and 1851 for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert as a summer home and rural retreat. Adults £16.20, family tickets £42.10 english-heritage.org.uk

Carisbrooke Castle is a historic motte-and-bailey castle located in the village of Carisbrooke, Isle of Wight, England. Charles I was imprisoned at the castle in the months prior to his trial. Open March to November. Adults £9.40, family tickets £24.40 english-heritage.org.uk

Blackgang Chine is the UK’s oldest amusement park. Named after a now-destroyed chine in the soft Cretaceous cliffs, it is about 6 miles from Ventnor at the southern tip of the Isle of Wight just below St Catherine’s Down. Tickets £19.50 blackgangchine.com

Ventnor Botanical Garden is a botanic garden located in Ventnor, Isle of Wight. It was founded in 1970, by Sir Harold Hillier, and donated to the Isle of Wight Council. FREE ENTRY botanic.co.uk

Further info:

https://www.visitisleofwight.co.uk/http://www.ventnor-iw.co.uk/

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GREAT HOTELS IN DEVON NOT TO

BE MISSED

Devon ticks all the boxes – beautiful coastlines, rolling countryside and idyllic villages. Just

2-3 hours from London by car, we take a look at a few top options you may want to consider when planning a trip to one of the UK’s most

stunning counties.

The Ilsington Country House Dartmoor This delightful family run hotel is perfectly located for those looking for a quiet stay. Set in the hamlet of Ilsington, just below the dramatic and beautiful Dartmoor National Park, the hotel provides a superb base for the curious traveller with the coastal towns of Salcombe, Dartmouth and the delightful village of Dittersham all within easy access. It also provides excellent spa and pool facilities, offering guests the chance to indulge in quiet pampering and luxurious treatments.

Enjoy quaint strolls along winding lanes or, for the little more adventurous, take a walk up to Haytor Tor where you can enjoy stunning views across the countryside towards the coast. The hotel offers a fantastic menu with fine dining and bar meal options available, and has two AA rosettes for food to its name.

Owned and run by the Hassell Family since 1998, The Ilsington Country House maintains its original character; beautiful lounges, panoramic views and wonderful gardens make this hotel a perfect setting for a quiet and peaceful stay. Ilsington Country House, Ilsington Village, Newton Abbot TQ13 9RR

01364 661452 www.ilsington.co.uk

Highbullen HotelSet in stunning grounds in Chittlehamholt near South Molten, this 4 star luxury country house has enjoyed recent renovation and development. Dartmoor and Exmoor are all within easy reach with the historic fishing village of Clovelly on the North Devon Atlantic coast not too far away. With full spa facilities, gym, golf club, indoor and outdoor pools, the Highbullen offers guests an array of activities in its luxurious surrounds. The bedrooms are of an exceptionally high standard and left to your own devices, the Victorian day rooms will inspire you to read like a librarian or while away the time enjoying views over the terrace and across the valley.

The dining room has a spectacular vista over beautiful lawns, is spacious with a quiet ambience and absolutely superb food on offer. Private dining is available, perfect for special occasions and The Cellar bar is a great place for a sun downer before dinner.

Like a lot of hotels hidden away in the Devon countryside, there are plenty of walks to enjoy in the vicinity. One notable stop if you do go for a walk is the Church of John The Baptist and the village pub, The Exeter Inn. A fantastic hotel in a wonderful setting, staying at The Highbullen is worth paying that little extra for.

Highbullen Hotel, Chittlehamholt, Umberleigh EX37 9HD

01769 540561 www.highbullen.co.uk

Orestone Manor A former Georgian Manor House, this boutique hotel offers award winning cuisine in a rural setting, with luxurious amenities and bespoke bedrooms. Located in Maidencombe, just outside Torquay, the hotel has a rich history and offers the visitor both coastal and rural attractions.

Its elegant public rooms have fascinating art and ornamental design, so be sure to keep your eye open for one or two antique oddities. The bedrooms offer sumptuous decor, from designer William Morris to Raj inspired themes that make every room unique, with modern facilities and bathrooms. A wonderful terrace overlooks the manor’s gardens, with views over Lyme Bay which on a glorious summer evening is truly breathtaking. Not too far from south Devon’s famous ‘red’ beaches, there is plenty to do locally. Visit Kents Cavern and take a step back to Stone Age Britain, or wander down the hill (it is a little steep!) to Maidencombe Beach with The Thatched Tavern pub making for a well earned stop off.

Owned and run on a day to day basis by two chefs Neil and Catherine D’Allen, you can expect the best in fine dining with twists on British fayre using locally sourced food. Orestone Manor provides a relaxed, friendly atmosphere in a carefully cutured and interesting style, something a few of its nearby neighbours should probably take note of.

Orestone Manor, Rock House Ln, Maidencombe, Torquay TQ1 4SX

01803 897511 www.orestonemanor.com

Orestone Manor

3 NOT TO MISS 3 NOT TO MISS

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