Once when the 15th century sultan of Gujarat, Ahmed Shah, was on a hunting expedition and sat down to rest near River

Sabarmati, he saw a rabbit chasing a dog and was amazed by it. Sheikh Ahmed Khattu, a Sufi saint whom he highly revered, pointed out to him that it was the unique feature of the land that allowed a timid creature like rabbit to chase away a dog and that it would be wise to build a capital here. Additionally, it is said, the saint prophesied that the city would be formed by four Ahmeds. Of the required four devout practitioners of Islam were King Ahmed Shah and the saint himself and the city took its name from the king. The city built on such strong foundation naturally flourished and has maintained to prosper through centuries.

The former capital of Gujarat that is also famous as Gandhi’s abode and home to the current Prime Minister Narendra Modi is known for a long list of successful businessmen, its textile industry, the innumerous festivals and its cuisine. On a more humanly context, the people of Ahmedabad stand out with their rich aesthetic sense. From elegant interiors of their homes to graceful khadi or

cotton attires, the inhabitants of the city effortlessly bring out the charm. Well-known design institutes of the country such as NID and CEPT have often found to give a push towards the artistic side.

The architectural assemblage and cityscape

Like other cities ruled by Muslim kings, Ahmedabad too is an ensemble of mosques and tombs. The Indo-Saracenic architecture that fused the Hindu craftsmanship with Persian architecture from the time of Ahmed Shah and his successors can be seen in these structures. Jamma Masjid, built by Ahmed Shah in 1424, is one of the oldest mosques located in the old city area. It was seemingly the largest mosque in the subcontinent during the time it was built. The prayer hall consists of multiple domes with intricate masonry work supported by over 250 column. The mosque was intended to be the private place of worship for the sultans of the period, justifying its scale and ornamentation. Sidi Saiyyed Mosque, located in close premises to Jamma Masjid, is another significant mosque built in 1573 by the last sultan of Ahmedabad who was defeated by the Mughal king Akbar. The carved stone lattices, locally called jail, form the windows of the mosque. Such is

the impact of these jalis that it has become symbolic to Ahmedabad and has even been found to represent the renowned management institute of the city, IIM through its logo.

An excellent example of Indo-Saracenic architecture is Sarkhej Roza, located seven kilometre south-west of Ahmedabad, built in the memory of Sufi saint Sheikh Ahmed Khattu in the latter half of the 15th century. The complex that was built under reigns of three kings has numerous structures such as the tombs of a king and queen, mausoleum of the saint and a mosque. Le Corbusier, a well-known 20th century Swiss-French architect, called it Ahmedabad’s Acropolis comparing it with the Acropolis of Athens. However, merely historical structures do not define the work of the bygone kings. Kankaria, a manmade lake built in 1451 by Sultan Qutbuddin, is the biggest lake in Ahmedabad. The Lake is now surrounded by lakefront with attractions such as the zoo, toy train, kids city, tethered balloon ride, water rides, water park and food stalls.

In the 18th century, when the rising communal riots necessitated superior security, pols were built in the old, narrow lanes of Ahmedabad as a protection measure. A series of interconnected houses

Located on the bank of River Sabarmati in the western state of Gujarat, Ahmedabad relishes a long celebrated history. While the city is moving towards new realty and infrastructural embellishments, the

classic and contemporary architectural marvels have not lost their charms.

Shweta Keshri

Discoveringarchitectural units

Ahmedabad

DESTINATION

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City Break

belonging to people of same community or caste with all necessary structures such as a well within a common boundary formed a pol. The use of lime mortar and wood in its construction not only gave it a strong foundation but also proved to be earthquake resistant due to the judicious combination of materials used. It was because of this reason that these 18th and 19th century pols were left unshaken in the earthquake that hit Gujarat in 2001. The exquisite wooden façade of these living pols illustrated the grandeur and opulence of the inhabitants.

Ahmedabad experienced the advent of modern architecture in the post-independence period. The city has been fortunate to be inhabited by people who actively took part in this architectural movement. Influential Gujarati families such as Sarabhai have had significant roles to play. Businessman and visionary Ambalal Sarabhai, who founded Sarabhai group of Companies, invited Corbusier to design the Sarabhai Villas (1951-55) and the Mill Owner’s Association Building (1951). He also designed Sanskar Kendra (1954), a museum depicting history, art, culture and

architecture of Ahmedabad. Well known American architect Frank Lloyd Wright designed the administrative building of Calico Mills and the Calico Dome (1962).

B V Doshi, considered to be an important figure in the development and evolution of architecture in India, came to the city after assisting Corbusier for four years in Paris to supervise his projects in India in 1955. He also worked with Louis Kahn, an influential American architect known for his meticulous work, in IIM Ahmedabad project in 1961. Corbusier’s understanding of the proper usage of space

CuISINE

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Homes with typical Gujarati decor are a major attraction of the heritage walk

and planning Kahn’s exceptional skill of playing with materials, structure and light are often reflected in Doshi’s works such as Centre for Environmental Planning and Technology (CEPT) university founded by him in 1972 and Sangath, his office space in Ahmedabad. As a result of the initiatives from institutions such as this that the city constantly ponders a sensitive growth and development. One of Doshi’s notable local works include Amdavad ni Gufa (1995), an underground art gallery, that was designed in collaboration with the well-known Indian artist M F Hussain and therefore is often referred to as Hussain-Doshi ni Gufa. This art gallery that exhibits Hussain’s works, represents a unique juxtaposition of art and architecture and is distinguished with its untraditional use of materials and technique.

Another eminent Indian architect Charles Correa, known for the use of traditional building materials in his work, designed the Gandhi Ashram on the bank of Sabarmati. Popular for being the residence of Gandhi for 12 years, it was built in 1963 along with the museum. It was from his base here that Gandhi led the Dandi March also known as the Salt Satyagraha on 12 March 1930. It has, therefore, been significantly recognised as national monument by the Indian government. The place boasts of the serenity and peace with the stillness of river and the quiet surrounding of the ashram. Christopher Charles Benninger’s, American architect and planner who has extensively worked in India, built Alliance Française (1981) as his first work in Ahmedabad. He also innovated the concept of site and services in Ahmedabad, an approach to housing that allows poor families to construct their own homes, according to their means.

The recently realised Sabarmati riverfront project was the ambitious initiative of Modi during his role as the chief minister of Gujarat. Apart from revitalising the river that had become a dumping yard for garbage and sewage systems and promoting tourism, it was also an impressive attempt of increasing the interaction between the river and people of the city. The 10.5 kilometre stretch of Sabarmati bank has been partly transformed into a space for leisure and recreational use. It became an exemplary initiative in terms of urban infrastructure and revitalisation. However, it was not devoid of any criticism as well. The slum dwellers on the bank of Sabarmati who were evicted to be resettled have been found to be living in self-made huts in the rehabilitation areas. Experts have also often called it a façade for 10.5 km for Ahmedabad bank and far from being river restoration. Nonetheless, it has become the focal point for the city that is divided by the river into eastern and western Ahmedabad.

Heritage Walk of AhmedabadApart from adding buildings to the

land, people of Ahmedabad have also been sensitive towards the heritage of the city. With over 36 ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) protected structure, Ahmedabad is among the three Indian cities to have

made to the tentative list of uNESCO World heritage city. Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation (AMC) in association with the Foundation for Conservation and Research of urban Traditional Architecture (CRuTA) in the year 2000 began a two hour long heritage walk in the old city of Ahmedabad to give a glimpse of history of the old living neighborhoods through its lanes and houses.

The walk begins at 8 in the morning with almost 200 year old Swamnarayan temple and ends at Jamma Masjid. One of the highlights of the walk are the self-contained pols. In essence, they resemble the gated housing societies with houses that belong to people of a particular family, caste, profession or religion. Each pol had a distinct name or identity, a cluster of inter-connected houses, a common courtyard, a public well, a temple and a chabutra or bird feeder. To increase the awareness, AMC installed placards mentioning their names outside the pols. The popular intricate wood carvings of Ahmedabad can be seen in each of the houses. Large overhanging balcony is another feature. Elements of Marathi, Mughal, British and Persian architecture are also found. At one exceptional square at Doshivada ni pol stand four houses, each depicting the four different architectural styles. Often these pols had secret passageways for emergency escapes as they were constructed by the

Amdavad ni Gufa was built by B V Doshi and M F Hussain Sidi Sayedi jali also figures in the logo of the Indian Institute of Management

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DESTINATION

Ahmedabad has been fortunate to be inhabited by people who actively took part in this architectural movement

95INDIA & YOU January-February 2015

communities to save their families from communal attacks or disturbances. Of almost 600 pols in Ahmedabad, some are as old as 300 years. British built iron poles with a directional arrows stating the direction of the underground sewer is another distinct feature of the pols of Ahmedabad. Kavi Dalpatram Chowk that housed the 19th century Gujarati poet in Lambeshwar ni Pol is the first stop of the heritage walk.

The walk also attracts interest of those with religious bent. The temples at pols are spare sized but have their own set of treasures and mysteries. A Jain temple, almost 400 years old, at one of the pols was built at the basement to keep it safe from the Mughal King Aurangzeb when he was on a spree of destruction of temples. The 700-year-old marble idols of Tirthankaras placed in the temple, adorned with pure diamonds and rubies, were brought from the holy site of Palitana in Saurashtra. The Kala Ram temple at Haja Patelni Pol houses a unique idol of Lord Rama in dark colour in a sitting posture. It is said that the idol resurfaced on its own post-independence, hundreds of years after the temple’s priest had hidden it to protect it during the Mughal period.

Another highlight of the walk is the remains of the Calico Dome built in 1962 during Ahmedabad’s golden textile era. The 12 metre wide structure was the original site for the administrative building of the Callico Mills. under the leadership of Gautam Sarabhai of the Sarabhai clan, the geodesic dome was designed taking an inspiration from American neo-futuristic architect Buckminster Fuller.

Through other surprises such as the 95 year old building that housed the first Ahmedabad Stock Exchange, old printing press where one can interact with the attendants and see the tools; the walk leads out of the neighbourhood to Manek Chowk. Named after a 15th century saint, the street that is a busy marketplace selling

jewelries and other retail products during the day transforms into a food street after the sunset and is open until 1 at night. The walk culminates at Jama Masjid that demonstrates the amalgamation of Hindu, Jain and Islamic architecture.

Ahmedabad is one of the few cities that, despite its rapid development, has preserved the heritage of the old city and coherently grown in the contemporary times with sensitivity. With the conveniences comparable to that of a metro and yet quiet neighbourhoods, the city often comes across as a preferred place for Indians to settle down for life! n

TrAveller’S DIArY

• For people visiting between Thursday to Sunday, Seva Café located at C G road is an experiment in the shared joy that comes from humble giving and selfless service. The wholesome meals here are cooked and served by volunteers and offered to guests as a genuine gift and aren’t charged for the food they’re served, instead they are free to pay whatever they want.• Inspired by the three people who observe silence for no agenda in Silicon Valley for almost two decades every Wednesday, a couple started this practice in Ahmedabad as well and opened their doors to complete strangers. An hour long silence is followed by a discussion where people often come out with their ‘aha’ moments. It ends with a vegan meal offered by the couple after which people often stay back for more insightful discussions!• It is also recommended to stopover at Manav Sadhna, located within the boundary of Gandhi Ashram, if one happens to visit the monument. It is an NGO that works with under-privileged children. One may find a group of enthusiastic children engaged in an activity or playing in the premises.• Zen Café, located near Amdavad ni Gufa, is one of the most popular hangout places for the youth of Ahmedabad. Apart from the wide range of tea, coffee and other non-alcoholic drinks and snacks, one can also enjoy the exhibits at Herwitz Art Gallery and the Hutheesing visual Art Centre located in close proximity. Ahmedabad has numerous roadside tea stalls that not only serve tea but something to chew alongside and all the amdavadis have their favourites here as well. It is recommended to have tea with muska-bun at least once during the stay.

AhmedabadGandhinagar

Kachchh

Jamnanagar

Junagadh

Amreli

Rajkot

Banas Kantha

Sabar Katha

Vadodara

Surat

ValsadDangs

How to reach

Where to stay

By Flight: Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel airport at

Ahmedabad provides both domestic and international

flights to and from Ahmedabad.

By rail: Ahmedabad Railway Station also known as

Kalupur Station is well connected with almost all the

major cities of India.

By road: Ahmedabad has good highways connecting

it to all major places in Gujarat and other states.

Interstate buses of different states of India provide

services to and from Ahmedabad.

The city offers a wide range of budget and mid-

range bed and breakfast and hotels most often

found in the older areas of the city such as Kalupur

and to luxury hotels such as Hyatt and Marriott.

Gujarat

Capital

Key Cities

The Jama Masjid was built by Ahmed Shah in the 15th century