750 Comstock Lane • Santa Cruz, CA 95060 · Coming to training classes the first and second year of your dog’s life is so important. When a dog is 2 years old, he is like an

750 Comstock Lane • Santa Cruz, CA 95060831-427-3811 • FAX 831-458-0169

[email protected]

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At Von Falconer Canine Training Facility we take pride in our dogs.

My goal has always been to breed a superior working dog with high ball drive, good nerves, excellent temperament, balanced drive, courage, and intelligence. With this in mind we breed our bitches to proven working service dogs to achieve this goal. Our dogs make excellent candidates for Police work, Personal Protection Dogs, Schutzhund, or Search and Rescue.

Eric Falconer was born in Manhattan New York, where he grew up with the family pet, a 110-pound German Shepherd. In 1966 he ventured out to California and in 1969 he started raising his own German Shepherds.

In 1983 Eric became a student of German trainer Gemot. It was Gemot that in-troduced the art of Schutzhund to California in 1949. It was this association that lead Eric to appreciate the benefits of protection training and properly bred Ger-man Shepherds.

In 1989 Eric invited Marv Gangloff, of Mar Ken International, to become our Mas-ter Trainer. It was at this time that Eric donated his 11 acre facility to law enforce-ment agencies and Mar Ken International Police Training. This facility is fully fenced with a tracking field, protection ring, agility course, training rooms and narcotics work areas.

We offer year round training and on going seminars with Master Trainer Mary Gangloff, at our Bonny Doon Location. Classes, group or private, and seminars are available in Obedience 1, 11, 111, Tracking 1, 11, 111 & Agility, S-R, Problem Solving, Schutzhund, Protection Work. For the Police we offer, K-9 Patrol, Narcotics, Bomb. Arson, and Duel Purpose.

We have service puppies and teens available. We also import the finest European dogs available on a regular basis. We are proud of all our dogs. They are not just a business they are a part of our family.

NOTE: WE DO NOT GUARANTEE any puppy tested and bought for protection work will grow up and be able to do this type of work as we have no control over the environment, they are placed in.

References available upon request.

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Canines and Children Left Unattended

Entering Into the Canine Kingdom Understand how your dog thinks. No matter how much we try to humanize our dogs, the canine will always have strong instincts in the canine animal world. His (or her) instinctual behavior is to live like a dog.

Understanding how it Works It is important for the whole family to attend obedience training classes. Small children should not be around animals unless supervised. Dogs do act in a herding response to small children. If a little boy or girl is on a swing set and the dog outside, it may see the moving of a dress or pants leg as an object to herd and reach out to nip it.

Dogs are pack animals. Their family is their “pack”. In the pack, a dominant animal will offer a correc-tive bite on the nose of a younger dog to correct unacceptable behavior. That is why young children are sometimes nipped by a dog. The dog thinks it is offering correction to the child. It is IMPERATIVE that dogs and young children never be left together unattended.

It is extremely important that the dog and the family learn dog obedience from the earliest possible age. Parents should find obedience classes that encourage or require the entire family to participate in training. This is why with each puppy or adult dog we sell, we offer free training classes. If the child can speak clearly, he or she is old enough to give commands. This should be reinforced by the parents until the children can do so for themselves. This shows the dog that it is subordinate to even the smallest human in the household. Consistency in the key. It is far more important to spend five minutes a day, every day, than to spend one hour, once a week.

Do not allow the dog to exercise dominance over the family. This includes climbing on furniture (plac-ing himself higher than his pack), jumping or otherwise getting on, above, between or in front of family members. DO NOT LET DOGS SLEEP ON THE BED OR YOUR FURNITURE. For more informa-tion, I highly recommend calling or email* us with any questions. If you buy a dog from another breed-er, contact us: we are here for you. Our classes are open to ALL breeds.

Coming to training classes the first and second year of your dog’s life is so important. When a dog is 2 years old, he is like an 18-20 year old human. Add 7 years to each year of his life after the first 2 years. If you own a male dog, DO NOT NEUTER your dog until his training is completed. Your dog will always need maintenance training. I always say a well trained dog makes a wonderful family member. They are loyal and honest to their reaction. You just need to get educated as to how a dog reacts to your environment. You and your family are their pack.

Our goal has always been to train sound family companions and service dogs. Our dogs have a very strong ball retrieval sense and thus are very adaptable for narcotics and explosives detection or urban training. Note: German Shepard, Dutch Shepard and Malinois are people dogs. They cannot develop and evolve to their true potential if they are left outside in a yard. Due to the breed, our dogs must go to someone who will train with their dog, learn to care for it properly and allow the dog to spend time with them and their family. For more information, contact us. There is no such thing as an uneducated question. If we do not have the answer, we will get it for you. Thank you for reading this page.

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750 Comstock Lane • Santa Cruz, CA 95060831-427-3811 • FAX 831-458-0169

email: [email protected]

1. DO NOT! Let your dog sleep out of his crate for the first 2 weeks. After the first 2 weeks he can sleep out of his crate every other night for the next week. Read attached crate training information.

2. DO NOT! Leave your dog loose or unattended in the house for the first 2 weeks. If you are going to leave the dog at home, confine him in his crate. After 2 weeks you can start leaving him unattended for short periods of time and slowly keep extending the time.

3. Be sure to take him out frequently to relieve himself, he is house broken, but he will be in a new area and may be excited and forget, so you will have to reinforce the training. (refer to attached crate training).

4. After the first 2 weeks you will start some obedience work, so you will need to contact us anytime after the first two weeks are up so we can help you get started. You will more than likely be enrolled in one of our Saturday obedience classes.

5. If you are having a problem o even think you are having a problem, you are to contact us right away. A MAR-Ken instructor of Von Falconer K-9 instructor will call you back within the day. Remember there is no such thing as a stupid question!

6. DO NOT! Let your dog do anything you do not want him to do later in his life. Remeber you are the BOSS (pack leader). Your dog does not sleep on the bed or get on the furniture EVER! This can cause training and behavior problems on the future. If you want to sit or lay next to your dog, you go to him on the floor.

7. During the bonding period you should give your dog food rewards when you call him to you, or when he/she does something good.

GOOD LUCK!!!

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PUPPY’S FIRST NIGHT TO FIRST YEARBuying a healthy Puppy with the correct temperament is just the first step. First of all,take the puppy home and introduce him to his new environment. Training starts the day you bring your puppy home house breaking is a lot of work, how to do this with the use of a crate will be explained later on in this manual. Bring the crate next to the bed at night to be able to hear the puppy’s signal to alert you when he/she has to go outside to go potty. This command can be used and later on the dog will go on command if you are traveling and want the dog to respond so you can get on with your trip. After the puppy completes its task, tell it”good boy or good girl, with a cheerful voice and lots of praise. Once you have your puppy at home, prepare an area which is clean and warm, preferably a spot which can be his own,where he or she can be alone if desired. Dogs, like people, often need time alone so they can relax and unwind without the interference of young children or other distractions. An adequate supply of food and clean water should be maintained as well as a supply of dog biscuits. This is an excellent treat and good for maintaining clean, healthy teeth. Knuckle soup bones cooked and cooled to kill any bacteria, or chewable toys are also excellent for the puppy, especially through the chewing stages when he loses his baby teeth and the adult teeth start to grow in. Pups which may have one floppy ear can often have this problem corrected by feeding him a lot of biscuits and letting him do a lot of chewing. This exercises the supporting muscles which run behind the mandible (jaw) and up-wards to the base of the ear, and more often than not will correct ear faults. lf the floppy ear persists, see a veterinarian for correction. lt is extremely important that the ears be properly erect as you will be reading your dog’s reactions on a day to day basis. A lot of what the dog tells you is translated from ear carriage and direction. Even though you may do some training with your pup before he is eight months of age, do not expect him to be totally obedient and to understand you fully. He is still a pup and for him to grow up mentally and physically healthy, he has to be allowed to be a puppy and to grow up through his adolescent and teenage periods before we can start expecting him to act like an adult.

PUPPY NAMEIt is best to think of a name, for example, Marco, Cooper,Anna, Gretchen, etc., and use the name before each command. His or her name is Puppy, so when you first start, say. Puppy, puppy Marco.” The name you choose, make sure you always say it with a happy voice let the dog know you love him or her. After a few days drop the puppy part first say its name every time he comes to you, give him a reward like a treat. He will always come when called as he knows he will be received in a happy manner. Never scold your puppy when it’s young when wanting a fast re-call. Later on you will be grateful to have this dog always come in on a fast recall. Give your puppy lots of play time as well as lots of quiet time alone. Teach your children the importance of leaving the puppy alone and not to be persistent in playing with him if it appears he wants to lie down or be alone. ln most cases where the dog at home bites a child, the dog is instantly corrected and sometimes even destroyed in the heat of the moment. The handler later hears that the dog had tried continually to avoid the child. The child, not understanding the dog’s need to be alone, continued to bother the animal until the dog finally struck out in frustration. This is not to condone the dog biting, as he must be justly correct-ed in such instances, but causes more harm than good. lt should be emphasized that the children and others living or visiting the household must be strictly taught to respect the dog’s feeling and needs. He too is an individual pups at eight or nine months of age may become skittish or act differently. This is comparable to human puberty and is only a phase in many cases. Give the animal a chance to recov-er, and you will likely find it is a normal part of his growing up. Some light training may be done prior to the pup reaching six months of age and preferably by eight months. This allows the animal time to

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mature and also allows his neck muscles to strengthen so that he is capable of withstanding proper choke chain corrections, as this the majority of corrective actions, which will be used during the Von Falconer training procedures. REMEMBER, DOG TRAINING IS NO PLACE FOR TEMPERS. YOU MUST ALWAYS BE PATIENT AND REALIZE YOUR PUPPY MAY NOT UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE TRYING TO DO. ONE BAD INCIDENT OR TEMPER CAN SET BACK YOUR TRAINING FOR WEEKS. If you begin to get frustrated with you puppy, stop, relax and give both you and your partner a break. We all have our”off” days.

TEETHINGAnother immediate priority with your new puppy is to help him through his teething stage, usually at around ten to twelve weeks of age. Your puppy should be provided with soup bones, large and chew-able or a milk-bone to chew. He should also be given a toy which he can play with and chew. These articles will tend to satisfy his/her need to chew and assist to stop destructive chewing on furniture. lf you find him/her chewing on anything other than his permitted allotment, correct him/her firmly and immediately. Never correct him/her unless you catch him/her in the act or you will do more harm than good. Should destructive chewing persist, see your veterinarian and have your puppy’s diet checked. He/She may be suffering from a mineral deficiency. This deficiency may even cause the pup to chew at his own coat, a form of self destructive chewing. Should there be a chance of mineral deficiencies, attempt to correct it using organic mineral supplement, rather than chemical. The organic supple-ments have a tendency to give better success. Dogs have been know to chew themselves raw in spots until their diet is changed and mineral supplements given. There is a recommended product called Sulfodene, readily available throughout most feed stores or your vet can order it for you. This also helps treating similar “Hot Spots.”Also read about bathing instructions as sometimes chewing on fur or scratching without fleas can be a cause of shampoo residue, caused from not rinsing the dog cor-rectly. Try not to run the dog to the Vet for every little thing as vets do charge and sometimes take advantage. It can be costly, you don’t want your dog treated for an allergy when it is a simple case of improper bathing.

CHILDREN AND YOUR PUPPYDo not leave an eight to twelve week old puppy alone with your two to six year old child. The puppy can get hurt or it can jump up and scratch the child, by not meaning any harm but just in play. Another common thing is a lot of children do not know how to hold a puppy correctly and might drop the puppy resulting in injury to the dog. Young dogs use their mouth and teeth like we do our hands. A young child can get injured when this happens, it may end up in a bite. While a dog has a bone, toy or is eating, this should be a time to keep your small child away from the dog. Some dogs become protec-tive of their food bowl. There is a training we can show you to overcome the protectiveness of the food bowl. Always be there to see that the children understand your new puppy is not a toy, but a living baby dog. It is very important to have this dog meet other children, and be socialized throughout the first year of its life. In the dogs mind,the adults are the alpha male and female of their new pack order. The children, being so young, can’t command the respect of the dog nor can they insert enough strength to make a necessary correction. Therefore,we must educate you, the adult. The dog will also see the children as new litter mates in its social order.

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INTRODUCING YOUR PUPPY TO OTHER HOUSEHOLD PETSIt is very important if you have another dog or cat to introduce them slowly to your new puppy. Pup-pies are used to playing rough, and the game of chase. They can get hurt with an older dog pet the older dog and the puppy at the same time. Do not leave a new puppy alone with an adult dog. Sepa-rate them until the Puppy is large enough not to get hurt. You may want to use a puppy playpen in the kitchen and let the older dog visit the puppy slowly for the first day or so to get used to him, as he becomes a new member of the family. You can order one from your local pet store or feed store.

EYESBe careful, cats can hurt you puppy’s eyes by slapping at him when the puppy becomes too aggressive. The cat is not yet accustomed to the puppy and does not understand the way the puppy plays. Do everything slowly, and let him settle into his new home without getting stressed out or having a negative experience.

EARSThis is a very important subject the ears go up and down with teething it is important not to pet or pull on the ears. The cartilage is at the base of each ear and can get broken if not handled correctly. Pet the puppy under the chin, or on its back, the ears will be settled in its upright position by the time the dog is between four and six months old. Some puppies takes a shorter time,very large-boned dogs take longer. The teething of the dog and the calcium will also play a part in the ears going up and down. If you own another older dog it can break the ear of a young puppy, so be careful.

FEEDINGIt is recommended to feed the puppy twice a day give the puppy two cups of food in the AM and again in the late afternoon always keep fresh water available cut off water about three hours before bed time. It will be helpful to put a chew toy in with the puppy it acts as a pacifier. If you change the dog food the Puppy is on, give it a well made dog food with plenty of vitamins and one that is designed for puppy growth. Monitor your new dog’s weight and don’t overfeed your dog will live longer and leaner. There have been instances due to dogs being overweight in which they did not live past eight years.

VACCINATIONSThe Puppy that you bought has had its first or second vaccine. It is very important that he/she gets its other vaccines on a timely basis. If you can’t make it back for your dog’s shots see a Vet. Do not let the puppy run around the waiting room hold the puppy in your arms or leave it in the car with an adult. Sometimes a sick dog has come in and your dog will not have the immunity to fight off a virus until they are 4 months and have received all their shots rabies must be given by a Vet. Do not take your puppy to any Parks or Beaches until he/she has taken all of its shots. Parks, beaches and places where feces from other animals can be found are all breeding grounds for deadly Parvo and other diseases.

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BATHING YOUR PUPPYIt is important the very first bath to be a good experience for the dog. Use lukewarm water never use cold water on a young dog as it shocks the puppy. Prepare the towels you’re going to dry him or her with. Buy a safe puppy shampoo and/or organic shampoo. Shampoo the rear of the dog and the area around head first. If the dog has any fleas, they will head for the orifices. Let the Shampoo stay on the dog for four minutes. Massage it in real good and rinse it really well shampoo that is left on will show up as dandruff or dry skin.

TRAINING PUPPYUse positive reinforcement in your training, rewards in the form of treats and praise when they are young. Young puppies are working on “Play and Prey” drives you do not want to create false defense before the dog is old enough. Play ball, and walk the puppy, have fun with your new friend. When you have bought your dog from Von Falconer k-9 facility, you will have four weeks of group class with the purchase of this dog. It will help you and the dog get started in the correct training program. Call us at 83I-427-3811 with any question. There’s no such thing as a stupid question we are available to answer your questions please call us, our staff is available from 9:00AM to 5:00PM. We have private training on Sundays see our menu for boarding and training.

PUPPY’S BITING AND JUMPINGDo not hold the dog’s mouth closed, as you can injure the dog’s bite. Call us if you intend to do bite work in the future or family protection work. Be careful in how you stop the dog from biting in their play-and-prey drive. We will send you a loaner video this is to let you understand what this is all about. Never knee your dog in the chest or step on the back feet. Learn to bend down to the dog and not call the puppy up on you when it is small. For weeks you have let a small puppy jump up to say “hello,” and now you have to stop it because it is much larger. Dogs do not know that you’re in your good clothes and ready for work if you don’t want your dog jumping, everyone in the family must do the same thing. Do not call the dog up on you in a greeting if the dog jumps on you grab the front legs and use the command “off’ as you place the dogs feet on the ground. If this is done enough, the dog will understand that it will get petted if it greets you in a none-jumping manner. If this is an older dog and powerful, you need to practice with family members, the way we do it is by hooking the dog up to a choke collar with a leash in the house, walking the dog to the place where the person is coming in and giving the dog a correction as it starts to jump.

CLASSES IN PUPPY TRAININGWe offer four free group classes with each puppy take advantage even if you can only make it up twice a month. We also offer private training Wednesday through Monday we have a training program that will fit your life style. Do not make this dog into a back yard dog. Von Falconer dogs are bred from the finest working dogs. They must have your attention or a handler that is dedicated in bringing the dog up correctly. See the menu of training and boarding if you find you do not have the time. Call us with any question, we care about what happens to the dogs we sell and place in homes. Classes are held each and every Saturday for puppies, 9 AM to 10 AM we do train every Saturday between 9 AM and noon.

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HIPS, ELBOWS AND SPINETreat your puppies with the same feeling as a small child. Do not let your dog jump off the tail gate of the truck, or out of a car, or retaining walls in the back yard if you have them. Do not over feed your dog, overweight puppies can cause problems with the hips and elbows, Do not force your dog to run while you go for a run, let the dog run natural and play at its natural pace. Do not force the dog to exercise next to a bike until the dog is fourteen months old and you have had the dog spayed. Spinal injuries can happen by a fall, or someone tripping over the puppy under foot, take care and treat this little puppy as if it were a baby. They grow up faster and you will have an adult dog before you know it, grow this dog up slow and do not overfeed it.

THE DO’S AND DON’TS OF HANDLING YOUR DOGRegarding anger: do not handle your dog when you’re upset or angry, take a break and relax before handling your dog. Dogs are very bright and sensitive, never use your hand to hit a dog. Never use a newspaper to hit a dog if you ever want this dog to do protection work, this could cause irreparable damage to future training. A high-drive puppy is a lot like an athlete, he/she has so much energy they can cause frustration in the owner or handler. Patience is the key, the more excited or stressed you get, the more the dog will respond the same way. The first key is to stay relaxed when handling a young dog. If the puppy gets on your nerves, put the puppy in a run or crate and take a time out. Do not let the puppy sleep on the bed, this will give the puppy the impression the he/she is the alpha in the household instead of you, in the Pack order of a dog the alpha male and female sleep at the top. If you allow this to happen, the dog will assume he or she will be equal. There have been cases where dogs have become aggressive when forced to get off the bed. Your dog must stay Beta in your family. The dog lives in the here and now, from moment to moment, it doesn’t worry about tomorrow or yester-day. It just lives to please you and to be with you one day at a time, we can learn from our four-legged friends, it is unconditional love, in the purest form.

PACK INSTINCTThis module will enable you to understand the socialization patterns of your dog. For us to really understand and be able to communicate fully with our partner, we must first learn to think, as he does and learn to relate to him the way he relates to us. To be able to do this, we must learn about their basic instincts, all canine species have a definite pack structure, with each animal in the pack, having a specific social rank. The leader of the pack is the alpha male, in the wild, he is the most aggressive male and can only be forced out of his position by severe aggression. He is the sire of the pups in the pack with rare exceptions and is responsible for pup survival, he is constantly challenged for his position by the beta male but remains secure in his position as the boss as long as he remains the strongest. The next member of social ranking in the pack is the alpha female, she, along with the alpha male, are responsible for raising as many pups as are required to sustain the pack. She will be the prime pro-ducer of pups, occasionally mating with male members of the pack other than the alpha male, and is constantly challenging and testing him. The other male members of the pack are usually related to the alpha male or female and will on occasion mate with the alpha female. They are followed in order by low ranking males who are often independent and will often form new packs with other low ranking members,then low ranking females,then juvenile members and finally the pups. The pack structure is important to use in that your puppy, as he grows into adulthood, will relate to the other members of your family using this socialization behavior.

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In a family where a dog is being raised as a Family Protection Dog or Police Service Dog, it is very important that he be allowed to maintain the position of a beta Male. The handler will be the alpha Male and his wife becomes the alpha Female. lf one understands the pup’s socialization pattern, this will assist the family raising the Family Protection Dog, or Police Service Dog to maintain the dog’s confidence and social position. Should every member of the family attempt to dominate the dog and the dog is not allowed to maintain his position, his confidence may wane, causing extensive problems for the prospective Family Protection Dog. This does not mean the dog is allowed to do anything he wants, nor does it mean that the children of the family cannot give him commands, but the majority of commands and corrections should be given only by the handler.

PUPPY TRAININGThe most important thing to remember while raising your puppy is to let him be a puppy, allow him or her to go through his adolescent and teenage periods as a puppy. Do not expect results as you would from an adult dog, this is important for his or her emotional maturity, it doesn’t mean however, that you can’t start training your puppy before he is nine months of age. On the contrary, as you associ-ate with your puppy, encourage him to do simple exercises, show him how to sit, using the correct command, and make a game out of it, every time he wants a treat, make him sit, using the appropriate command. Every time he wants a treat, make him sit and reward him with praise and the treat, when you see him starting to lie down, do a bit of word association by commanding “Down” as he performs the task. Once he lies down, give him lots of praise, he was going to lie down anyway, of course, but it won’t be long before this word association with this, and other natural movements, will start to mean something to him. As well as the word association, take the time to gently place him in the desire posi-tions and use the appropriate commands, don’t make a long training session out of it, just do it peri-odically throughout the day, once or twice each time. He will soon catch on, and everything he learns now will make things much easier when we start on his formal training. This time of your puppy’s life is vital in the makeup of his personality and how he will grow up and socialize. Keep this in mind and mold him into the type of dog you want. Take a lot of time with your puppy to play games with him, two very important games which most puppies love are to fetch a ball and tug of war.

FETCHING OR RETRIEVINGFirst of all, in regards to fetching, do not expect your puppy to retrieve the ball back to you right away, as this will come with time. It is usually best that the ball also to be his toy to play with, this way he becomes attached to it and he is more likely to pick it up and carry it back to you. The ideal type of ball is made of hard rubber because soft rubber or tennis balls can be chewed up by your puppy and ingested. Ensure that the ball is not small enough for the dog to choke on, this is dangerous and can be potentially life threatening, it has happened that people have lost their dog to such a preventable event. Once you throw the ball, use the word “Fetch” to associate the command to the game, if he picks up the ball, coax him back to you and associate it with the command “here. “Always make sure the game is fun, and never force your puppy or expect him to continue the game once he tires of it. Like any child, his attention span may be very short, for tug of war take a towel or a gunny sack and gently tease the puppy with it until he shows an interest in it. See if you can deepen his or her interest in it, he/she may not make any attempt to grab it at first, but if enticed carefully, it won’t be long before he or she does. While teasing him with the towel use the words,”Take it,” be excited,get him playful so he wants to play the game, if he grabs the towel, let him have it and give him lots of praise. Keep at it until over a period of time, until you can have a good struggle over the towel, when you have him playing

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with it,you will want him to learn to let go of the towel, stop struggling, hold the towel firm and still, and sharply use the command “Out” he may continue the game, but don’t comply. Command “Out” again sharply and using your forefinger over his nose and placing your thumb in the comer of his mouth between his teeth, gently separate his jaws enough to release the towel. Again repeat the command and when the towel is released, praise the dog, every time.

BUYING AN ADULT FAMILY PROTECTION DOGYou have just invested a lot of money in a trained Protection Dog, many hours have been physically spent in training this dog correctly. We are here to guide you with your new dog, the next 30 days will be spent bonding (see Bonding below) with your new dog. The following is some important infor-mation you must follow, we want you to have many years of a successful relationship with your dog. Always remember, if you owned a gun, you wouldn’t leave it on the kitchen table or coffee table, you must realize, once this dog is bonded, he/she will do what they have been trained to do.

ADULT DOG BONDINGIt takes about 30 days for an adult dog to bond to its new owners, it is important to have a crate and a kennel for this dog. Do not put yourself in any situation that will cause you to expect this dog to pro-tect you until you have gone through the bonding period. Do not turn this dog loose on your property until you know that the dog knows this is its new home. All Protection Dogs must be on leash in the state of California. They can be off-leash in your house or in your backyard, but only after the bonding period. Do not let your dog off-leash in your garage with the neighborhood children or their unleashed pets running free on to your property. Do not send a stranger into the backyard without first putting your dog away or in its crate. Make sure if you have gardeners or PG&E or any service contractor, they realize that a dog is on duty, if a friend comes over and slaps you on the shoulder or if someone was to act physical toward you, this dog could bite the person. So if you are having a party or rough hous-ing, put the dog away, he or she will not know the difference between joking around and a real fight or someone attacking you. The dogs we sell are social and civil, enjoy your dog, he or she will put his life on the line for you and your dog is not meant to be a show off for your friends. This dog is beta, keep the dog off the bed in the bedroom. This is a strong Beta Dog and he or she must remain Beta and you must remain Alpha in this dog’s social order. He can never become an equal to the handler or owner. He will be part of your family at the end of bonding period. This dog will become Perimeter Protective and until you have gone through training to fully understand and be educated in handling this dog, do not assume anything. This dog is trained, and now is the time to train you on the handling of this dog, you will have ten hours of training included with this dog. Afterwards one hour a month will be free for the first year for maintenance training. This training is very important to keep your dog fined tuned in his abilities, unless you are experienced in handling this Family Protection Dog, you must come and train until you feel you are in control of your new companion.

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HAVING YOUR DOG OFF LEASH ON THE BEACH OR PARKIt is a state law on all beaches to have your dog on leash. Understand this: IF YOUR DOG ATTACKS SOMEONE, OR THEIR PET, YOU WILL BE SUED. Make sure if you do exercise your dog on the beach, do it after you have “push button control” off-leash. Also be SURE that YOUR RECALL CAN STOP HIM IN HIS TRACKS AND HAVE HIM RETURN TO YOU.Remember, your dog is beta and any other dog that shows that they want to fight with him, he will not back down no matter what size. It is important to realize that toy dogs can send the same message to a larger dog in that it thinks it can be alpha, and the owner of the other dog could get bit in trying to break up a dog fight. When at the beach or at a park use a long sixteen foot leash, do not take the risk of a dog fight or an unexpected event that you do not know how to handle. A lot of people have pets running loose in parks and beaches, you have a strong Protection Dog, and this is the difference. Fun things to do with your dog: jogging, camping and dog training, always have your dog on a leash, or with a crate. You need to be a responsible dog owner, once you have the control of this dog, you can take chances off-leash, but remember: if this dog feels a threat coming to you or your family, it will react. So be aware at all times.!!!

DOGS AND YOUNG BABIESDo not leave a baby crawling around with a new dog, let him really understand who, what the child is and make sure the baby does not stick its fingers in the crate or kennel chain link until the bonding and the relationship is solid. This takes time, dogs use their mouths and can sometimes grab onto clothing and frighten a small child. The more the child screams,the more the dog reacts in some cases, do not leave you baby unattended with a child and a large dog. You must pay attention to this, as time goes on the dog will adjust to the child and vise verse. lt is all part of the bonding period if the dog is under two years of age he is considered a “teenager,” immature in some ways and has some growing up to do as well. This means take it slow and always protect the children as they are too small to defend themselves.

BONDINGFeeding,grooming, and play are also important in this socialization process, in playing with the pup, let him win once in awhile, whether it be tug of war, or just wrestling around. This allows him to build and maintain his confidence as well as cement a strong bond between dog and handler,The importance of the bond cannot be stressed enough Particularly in the Family Protection Dog or Police Service Dog. It takes many hours of work, play and just plain old constant association and companionship to build up that bond. To be a successful trainer, you must have a genuine love for your dog and he must be allowed to display the same affection towards you. He will do this by playing, staying close or even working harder, a well bonded dog lives to hear praise from his master and will do anything to obtain it. This is the key to training and can only be obtained if you are dedicated to working with you dog consistently and taking the time to understand him. If you take the time to study your partner’s behav-ior and work on the bonding process, it won’t be long before you will be able to read and anticipate what your partner is going to do and understand why, even before he does it because the two of you are communicating.

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TRAINING TIPS FOR NEW HANDLERSI. Get the dog to love you, all future training depends on this.

2. Never chastise or scold him unnecessarily, only scold immediately after an accident, and never if you are not sure the dog understood perfectly what was wanted of him, deliberate disobedience must be instantly dealt with.

3. Remember a dog can not ask questions, neither can he understand what you say, just as you cannot understand most foreign languages.

4. Success of a trainer depends on being able to make a dog understand what he has to do and then to instill that into his brain until it becomes like an instinct

5. Always use kindness unless you are sure that being unkind for a very short period you will save the dog from having prolonged unkindness at a later stage.

6. Be decisive and firm and most important of all, be sure that you know exactly what you want and how it should be done.

7. Never try and teach a dog anything until you,yourself, have a full understanding of how to teach it with a clear mental picture of each stage, above all, never attempt anything if you have the slightest fear of getting lost.

8. Try not to make a mistake, do not let the dog make a mistake, should he do so, never let it pass.

9. A mistake once made, and let pass may mean hours of hard work for you and untold harm for the dog, it may never be erased.

10. Reward everything that is done well.

11. Always finish a training period on a good note, never end the training if the dog has just done with something wrong, always leave off on a happy note,with lots of praise.

12. Do not continue a training period for such a long time that the dog becomes tired and bored, if this happens, you have wasted your time, make the dog do something he likes,with a tug toy or ball and then finish.

13. As far as possible, always have your dog with you, you cannot train him all the time but he will be-come accustomed to your actions,words and surroundings which will all help to make training easier.

14. PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE

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A WORD OF WARNINGContrary to popular belief, a trained Protection Dog isn’t the snarling, snapping, vicious demon that general opinion might have us believe. This is a broad misconception, the dog is, however, as is a gun or automobile, potentially dangerous to non-family members and strangers and should always be treated accordingly. At no time should such a dog be taken lightly as is sometimes the case there are as many opinions as there are people concerning what a Protection Dog is, does, and should or should not do. Training methods vary from one individual to another, with all claiming to know the most and train the best. Few agree completely in all facets of training, many people claim that nobody has the right to own a trained Protection Dog. These claims are not without a certain amount of validity, unscrupulous handlers/owners and irresponsible trainers have contributed to these ideas.

VON FALCONER K-9 TRAINING FACILITY WILL NOT SELL YOU A TRAINED PROTECTION DOG IF WE FEEL YOU DON’T REALLY HAVE THE NEED FOR THIS TYPE OF DOG, OR YOU WOULDN’T BE ABLE TO CONTROL OR HANDLE THE DOG PROPERLY!

It must be realized that a trained Protection Dog is not a toy in which to scare people or to show off. The owner/handler must realize that the dog does not always distinguish between a play situation and a serious one, such as a stranger raising his/her hand or quickly grabbing a family member, protection dog is employed to protect you and your family. He/she is a faithful companion and friend. He/she is also an individual with distinct personality characteristics and idiosyncrasies.

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Von Falconer Canine TrainingInternational Service Dogs

Puppies & Adults • Stud Service • Training • OFA certified

750 Comstock Lane • Santa Cruz, CA 95060 email: [email protected] • FAX 831-458-0169 www.vonfalconer.com

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WHY SO MANY VACCINATIONS?We vaccinate our pets far more frequently than we ever vaccinate ourselves. Why? A great deal of the problems center around our pet’s lifestyles. They are often sticking their noses into things and places and eating anything they can, that can serve as reservoirs for many common infectious diseases. Some infectious diseases are hearty and easily survive in the environment while others die easily and need very specific conditions to survive and be transmitted. Our pets are at risk and as their stewards we should offer them what protection we can. Puppies receive antibodies, which provide immunity, from their mother while growing in the uterus and in the first milk, colostrum, when they are born. Under most circumstances, we cannot vaccinate pregnant dogs due to safety concerns for the developing fetus. Antibodies transferred from the mother to the puppies have a limited life span and as they wane, the puppy’s immune system matures and is able to respond to challenges from the environment.

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Vaccination series are designed with the above mentioned in mind. We often do not know the im-mune status of the mother, we do not know if the puppy received colostrum and we do not know how long the immunity which has been transferred will last It is important to realize the potential vulner-ability which the young animal faces. That is why we vaccinate so often, it is imperative that the young puppies receive the vaccines up to four or five months because, regardless of the maternal immunity received, the puppy’s immune system still needs to be stimulated.

COMMONLY ADMINISTERED VACCINATIONS Distemper......................Parvo Virus....................Corona Adeno Virus...................Rabies.............................Parainfluenza Leptospirosis.................Bordatella......................Lyme

INTERNAL PARASITESIn our area the two most commonly diagnosed internal parasites are roundworms and tapeworms. There are a multitude of other internal parasites which our animals are susceptible to but, they are found less frequently. Clinical signs can include, failure to thrive, poor coat, poor utilization of nutrients in food, diarrhea, vomiting and even intestinal obstruction. The most common way to see worms is by checking their stool. Tapeworms are long and flat while roundworms are short and round.

ROUNDWORMThese worms are highly adaptable in puppies and kittens.. They can encyst in the mother’s muscles, recognize the hormonal changes associated with pregnancy and travel across the placenta into the developing fetus and into the milk sacks. Infection can also occur by ingesting contaminated stools. A fecal exam can confirm the presence of eggs. The deworming medications commonly prescribed are safe and work well. Remember: Good sanitation is the best preventive medicine.

TAPEWORMThese worm are an entirely different sort of worm. The life cycle revolves around the flea. The tapeworm larvae are In the flea, when our pets groom themselves and swallow an Infected flea, the adrift worm will develop In the Inte ifinis. The medication for eliminating the tapeworm is a prescrip-tion item only. Many of the over the counter dewormers are misleading. They say aides the removal of tapeworms.

HEART WORMHeart worm is a blood parasite of mammals. The life cycle involves mosquitoes. The mosquito carries the larva which is transmitted into the skin of a host animal. The larvae migrate through the skin and into the bloodstream, eventually leading to the pulmonary artery of the heart. The time from infection until the adult worms are mature and able to reproduce takes six months. The medication is also a prescription only item.

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PROTOZOAL PARASITESCommonly seen parasites are glardia and coccidia, these are a public health concern because they can potentially infect people. Transmission occurs by Ingestion of fecal material contaminated with the parasites. These parasites can be seen on examination of your pet’s stool. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ON THESE PARASITES PLEASE CONTACT YOUR VETERINARIAN FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ON EXTERNAL PARASITESOur young pets appear to be more susceptible to some commonly seen external parasites, although they can and will take a foothold on any of our pets. The ones below are especially common.

FLEASFleas are by far the most common and disturbing, there are no easy answers. Our understanding of the flea life cycle has grown and become clear enough to be able to make some general recommendations. ALWAYS READ PRODUCT LABELS CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY. USING INAPPROPRIATE PRODUCTS ON ANIMALS CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS ILLNESS AND EVEN DEATH. The flea life cycle includes, eggs, larvae, pupae, and adult, the adult portion of the life cycle is spent almost entirely on the dog or cat where it feeds, breeds, and lays eggs. The egg rolls off the host and continues its development in the environment, some pets may develop skin allergies, itching, scal-ing, and even dermatitis, which is associated with the flea bite. The degree to which animals react to the bites is directly proportional to the flea burden, there are several products available for use, dips, powders, shampoo’s, and now once a month drops behind the head and tail. Be aware no matter how well you protect your pets, if the yard they are kept in is infested with fleas you are on an uphill battle. There is now a product available through your vet that can be applied to your pet that will sterilize the fleas and thus they cannot reproduce.

EAR MITESEar mites are more often seen in cats but, dogs can also become hosts. The entire life cycle of the mite is spent in the ear canal. Ear mite infections have a characteristic discharge containing adult mites and their eggs. Two treatments are available: topical medication which is administered daily for up to one month or injectable medication.

SKIN MITESSkin mites can be of various species. Some are a public health concern because humans are susceptible to infestations. The most common mite is a Sarcoptes Scabeii, found on the neck, head, and ears. It is associated with extreme itching. Often there is significant hair loss. It can be extremely difficult to get a positive diagnosis because the mites live so deeply in the, skin. Skin scraping is the usual diagnostic tool. Demodes is the second most common mite, this is usually associated with patches of hair loss, often the head and neck, but does not cause itching. It is usually treated with topical medication or through a series of dips. Stress on the animal can cause mite infestations.

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TICKSFor those pets that have a high tick burden, we have traditionally recommended dips to aid in repelling them. New products in the form of collars are being introduced which may prove ef-fective in preventing the tick from attaching. The new collars contain Amitraz. Lyme disease is a growing concern and there is now a vaccination available for your dog. No one likes to deal with ticks. They attach themselves to places where pets cannot readily get to and sucks blood from the host. If you find a tick, there are several ways to get rid of them. Apply Vaseline to their protruding end, they breathe here, once their air is cut off they will back out of the host. They also have tick removers available at pet stores. Make sure you remove the head as it can cause an infection.

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HEALTH AND NUTRITION

PUPPIESIn general, puppies up to five or six months of age should eat two or three meals daily of a high quality growth food. High quality food will provide your pet with the nutritional needs they will require, fresh water is an absolute must. Feed your dog, dog food, not yours, eating human food creates bad habits and a picky eater, not to mention possible health problems resulting from improper nutrition. This diet should continue to he followed until the pup is 12-18 months old, if you have a rapid growing breed and have concerns about the growth rate, consult your Vet.

THE ADULT DOGAs you live with your pet, observe them, touch them, note their habits and patterns, you will be amazed at how well you will know your pet. Pay special attention as they age to changes in appetite, water con-sumption, exercise tolerance, general overall condition, and attitude, these observations are immensely important to your vet and may help in saving his or her life. As you dog ages, their needs change, these dogs should continue to be fed a high quality food with nutritional needs for their age group. Is your dog a couch potato or a field trial hunter? Feed accordingly, there are a variety of foods available, lite diets, special diets, hi-protein diets, find which one best suits your pet and continue feeding them until the next stage in their age. Do not keep switching brands on them, it is hard on their digestive system. Each year we recommend a physical exam for your pet, it is a marvelous opportunity to ask questions regarding health, nutrition, what is new on the market, and any other concerns you may have. Write down your questions so you won’t forget anything.

HOUSE TRAINING & CRATE TRAININGWe take advantage of our dogs not to wanting to “mess” in their sleep areas. So, at night when it is time for bed we crate the puppy, place them in the bedroom of the person responsible for taking them out. Put chew toys or play toys in the crate with the pup, the crate is not a punishment nor should it ever he used as such. Dogs are den animals and when it comes time to sleep they look for shelter, den, cave, or a hole. They do not like to sleep out in the middle of everything, this is too vulnerable a place, thus the den. Crate training and house training go hand in hand, during the day slowly introduce the crate to the pup by placing treats inside every 10 to 15 minuets. Praise them when they enter the crate, the next step is to give a command to go into the crate, go to bed, go place, then give a goodie inside the crate. It won’t take long for them to figure this out. The next step is to give a command that it is OK to leave the crate. Once inside, close the door briefly praising all the time, open the door and give the command OK letting them come out. Do not expect them to stay inside for a long period, gradually in-crease the time inside. Soon they will be crate trained, you can use the crate to assist in house training your pup. When you cannot keep an eye on the pup, place them in the crate, if you have a secure place outside,not too hot or cold, they can go outside to play. Before Letting them in to play or letting out of the crate, take them out to relieve themselves, if they relieve themselves, they will be good for 15 to 25 minuets. Remember, puppies need to go A LOT. If your puppy has an accident in your home, IT IS YOUR FAULT, take them out often to ensure no mistakes. When you take them out to relieve themselves, give a command to do so, such as, get busy or go to the bathroom. As soon as they do, PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE. As soon as the puppy wakes up, take them out, after eating, take them out, after playing, take

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them out, take them out anyway, after they drink, take them out. The more often you take them out the less likely they will have an accident, we do not recommend paper training as it only leads to confu-sion. Do you want them to eliminate inside your four walls or not? Why say “yes” here and “no” here but, you want them to go outside so it is “yes” again? They do not understand this, with a little patience from you and taking them out often, your pup will soon be house trained.

CANINE HIP DYSPLASIACanine Hip Dysplasia (CHD) is the most common, heritable orthopedic problem seen, it afflicts virtu-ally all breeds of dogs but is especially problematic in the large and giant breeds. Clinically, the disease manifests itself in one of two ways, a severe form that typically affects the younger animal is usually characterized by marked pain and lameness. A more chronic form is the gradual onset, clinical signs such as mild intermittent pain, stiffness and restricted range of motion in the hips, as the dog ages. In many cases, the chronic form may be clinically silent, dog owners and veterinarians have long sought a reliable method to accurately predict the likelihood of a dog developing Canine Hip Dysplasia and pass-ing that genetic trait to any offspring. It was generally recognized that the traditional diagnostic methods of hip evaluation were associated with disappointing progress in reducing the frequency of Canine Hip Dysplasia. The PENN HIP Method was developed to address this problem. This new method resulted in a diagnostic method capable of estimating the susceptibility for Canine Hip Dysplasia in dogs as young as 16 weeks. The PENN HIP Method has shown distinct advantages over other diagnostic methods that recommend final evaluation be preformed when the dog is two years of age or older

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To Neuter Or Not To Neuter...Those of us with responsibility for the health of canine athletes need to continually read and evaluate new scientific studies to ensure that we are taking the most appropriate care of our performance dogs. This article provides evidence through a number of recent studies to suggest that veterinarians and own-ers with canine athletes should re-visit the standard protocol in which all dogs that are not intended for breeding are spayed and neutered at or before 6 months of age.

Orthopedic ConsiderationsA study by Salmeri Et Al in 1991 found that bitches spayed at 7 weeks grew significantly taller than those spayed at 7 months, and that those spayed at 7 months had significantly delayed closure of the growth plates than those not spayed (or presumably spayed after the growth plates had closed). A study of 1444 Golden Retrievers per-formed in 1998 and 1999 also found bitches and dogs spayed and neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered at more than a year of age. The sex hormones promote the closure of the growth plates, so the bones of dogs or bitches neutered or spayed before puberty continue to grow. Dogs that have been spayed or neutered well before puberty can frequently be identified by their longer limbs, lighter bone structure, narrow chests and narrow skulls. This abnormal growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particu-larly the lengths (and therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others. For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months when a dog gets spayed or neutered, but the tibia, which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age continues to grow, then an abnormal angle may develop at the stifle. In addition, with the extra growth, the lower leg below the stifle becomes heavier (because it is longer), causing increased stresses on the cranial cruciate ligament. These structural alterations may be the reason why at least one recent study has shown that spayed and neutered dogs have a higher incidence of CCL rupture. Another recent study showed that dogs spayed or neutered before 5 1/2 months had a significantly higher incidence of hip dysplasia than those spayed or neutered after 5 1 /2 months of age. Breeders of purebred dogs should be concerned about these two studies and particularly the latter, because they might make incorrect breeding decisions if they consider the hip status of pups they bred that were spayed or neutered early.

Cancer ConsiderationsThere is a slightly increased risk of mammary cancer if a female dog has one heat cycle. But my experi-ence indicates that fewer canine athletes develop mammary cancer as compared to those that damage their cranial cruciate ligaments. In addition, only about 30 % of mammary cancers are malignant and, as in humans, when caught and surgically removed early the prognosis is very good. Since canine athletes are handled frequently and generally receive prompt veterinary care, mammary cancer is not quite the spec-ter it has been in the past. A retrospective study of cardiac tumors in dogs showed that there was a 5 times greater risk of hemangiosarcoma, one of the three most common cancers in dogs, in spayed bitch-es than intact bitches and a 2.4 times greater risk of hemangiosar¬coma in neutered dogs as compared to intact males. A study of 3218 dogs demonstrated that dogs that were neu¬tered before a year of age had a significantly increased chance of developing bone cancer, a cancer that is much more life-threaten-ing than mammary cancer, and that affects both genders. A separate study showed that neu¬tered dogs had a two-fold higher risk of developing bone cancer. Despite the common belief that neutering dogs helps prevent prostate cancer, at least one study suggests that neutering provides no benefit.

Behavioral ConsiderationsThe study that identified a higher incidence of cranial cruciate ligament rupture in spayed or neutered dogs also identified an increased incidence of sexual behaviors in males and females that were neutered early. Further, the study that identified a higher incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs neutered or spayed before 5 1/2 months also showed that early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias and undesirable sexual behaviors. A recent report of the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation reported significantly more behavioral problems in spayed and neutered bitches and dogs. The most commonly observed behavioral problem in spayed females was fearful behavior and the most common problem in males was aggression. Yet another study showed that unneutered males were significantly less likely than neutered males to suffer cognitive impairment when they were older, females were not evaluated in that study.

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Other Health ConsiderationsA number of studies have shown that there is an increase in the incidence of female urinary incontinence in dogs spayed early. Interestingly, neutering also has been associated with an increased likelihood of ure-thral sphincter incontinence in males. This problem is an inconvenience, and not usually life-threatening, but nonetheless one that requires the dog to be medicated for life. A health survey of several thousand Golden Retrievers showed that spayed or neutered dogs were more likely to develop hypothyroidism. This study is consistent with the results of another study in which neutering and spaying was determined to be the most significant gender-associated risk factor for development of hypothyroidism. Infectious diseases were more common in dogs that were spayed or neutered at 24 weeks or less as opposed to those undergoing gonadectomy at more than 24 weeks. Finally, the AKC-CHF report demonstrated a higher incidence of adverse reactions to vaccines in neutered dogs as compared to intact.

For these reasons, I have significant concerns with spaying or neutering dogs before puberty, particularly for the canine athlete. And frankly, if something were healthier for the canine athlete, would we not also want that for pet dogs as well? But of course, there is the pet overpopulation problem, how can we prevent the production of unwanted dogs while still leaving the gonads to produce the hormones that are so important to canine growth and development? The answer is to perform vasectomies in males and tubal ligation in females, to be followed alter maturity by ovariohysterectomy in females to prevent mammary cancer and pyometra. One possible disadvantage is that vasectomy does not prevent some unwanted behaviors associated with males such as marking and humping. On the other hand, it has been my experience that females and neutered males actively participate in these behaviors too. Really, training is the best solution for these issues. Another possible disadvantage is finding a veterinarian who is experi-enced in performing these procedures. Nonetheless, some do, and if the procedures were in,,., • greater demand, more veterinarians would learn them.

I believe it is important that we assess each situation individually. If a pet dog is going to live with an intel-ligent, well-informed family that understands the problem of pet overpopulation and can be trusted to keep the dog under their control at all times and to not breed it, I do not recommend spaying or neuter-ing before 14 months of age. In the case of dogs that might be going to less vigilant families, vasectomy and tubal ligation will allow proper growth while preventing unwanted pregnancies.

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DOG SAFETY IN THE HOMEIt is best to be prepared for an accident or emergency before it happens. A little work in advance will provide your dog with the proper care no matter what happens.

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

Pets name:

Sex:

Date of Birth:

License Number:

Vets Name:

Vets Address:

Vets Phone Number:

Diet:

Allergies:

Poison Control Center Number: Place this information in a readily available place such as the refrigerator or at the phone.

BASIC FIRST AID KIT Muzzle Cotton Batting Tweezers Scissors Adhesive Tape Soap Gauze Pads Bottled Water Ice Pack Vet Wrap Alcohol Iodine Sponge Tick Remover Blanket

Keep a dog first aid kit in your car and at home, learn how to apply a muzzle before a crisis. Injured ani-mals, even your own, may bite if you try to administer first aid it is also much easier to administer first aid to a well trained dog who is accustomed to being examined.

DEADLY PLANTSThese common plants are poisonous. Your dog will need to see a Vet immediately if any of these plants or flowers are eaten. Autumn Crocus Iris Azaleas Jack-in-the-Pulp Bleeding Heart Larkspur Buttercups Lily of the Valley Castor Bean Mistletoe Daffodil Narcissus Dutchman’s Breeches Oleander Elderberry Poinsettia Foxglove Rhubarb Golden Chain Yew HyacinthMany bulb plants are deadly to animals if they eat the bulb. Don’t leave a digging dog in a yard with these.

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POISONOUS PRODUCTSThere are many household products that are dangerous to our pets, if your pet ingests harmful chemicals, con-tact a poison control center or a veterinarian immediately. 1) Keep items with warning labels away from you pet. 2) Keep cabinet doors closed or locked. 3) Lock up prescription and nonprescription drugs, vitamins, antifreeze, bleach, cleaners, polish, oil, waxes, detergents, rat poison, insecticides. 4)Teach children that these are harmful to themselves as well as to their pets.

OUTSIDE YOUR HOMELeash your pet, it is hard to control a distracted or scared dog without a leash. Respect your neighbors, if your pet eliminates in their yard or in the park, pick it up. We want to continue being able to walk the streets and going to the parks, if we do not respect this, like many national parks, we will not be allowed to take our pets there. Besides who wants to step in some dog’s mess anyway, it is your dog and your responsibility, not someone else’s.

THE BENEFITS OF A TRAINED DOGSits on command • Comes when called • Leaves guests alone • Leaves you alone when eating

Does not jump on guests • Does not take over the house • Knows you are the boss Won’t strain on a leash, walking you • Chews on their toys not your • Does not bark endlessly

Will not chase, cars, cats, dogs, etc. • Not a nuisance to neighbors They love you for telling them what YOU want, because they really do want to please you.

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COMMANDS

English German French Czech Dutch Hungarian Heel Fuss (Fooss) Au pied (Ohaye) K Noze Follow La’Bhoz Sit Setz Assis (Ahsee) Sedni Plaats UI Stay Blelb Pas Bouger (Pah boojay) Stuy (Vstam) Blif Ott Maradsz Sostans Down Platz Coucher (Cooshay) Lehni Af Feksik Reste (Rest) Come Heir Ici (Esee) Kernne (Kuffimne) Here Gyere’de Stand Steh (Shtay) Debout (Deboo) Zustan Stue A’ll Retrieve Bring (Bnrfing) Apporter (Aport) Aport Aport Hozd Jump Hop (Hup) Saute (Soot) Aller Vpred Hop Jop Go Out Voraus En Avant (OnnAvauhnm) Elore Track Such (Suuk) Pistage (Piss tahshh) Hledey Kersed Stoba Guard Pass allf Garde (Guard) Pozor Pas Op Figyelj Bite Packen, Stell Attaque Drz Fogd Out Aus (Ows) Halte (Alt) Pust Loos Ereszd Donner (DonAye) Speak Gib Laut Aboie (Ahbwaa) Stekey Gib Laut Ugass-Koszonj Narcotics Rauschgift Hledej Oznac Szagold Gift Drogy Search Voran Cherche (Sherch) Revir Revir Furkessez Revir Kennel Zwinger Kotec Kennel Go Outside Helyedre Geh Raus Go Ahead Geh Voran Volno/Prat Elore Geh Weter Prat Menj Ki Get In Geh Rhein Poydsern Gyere Be What is going on Was Ist Los Co Ye To Mi Baj Good Boy Zou Brav Bon Garcon (Bon Barscon) Hodny Okos Correction Pfui (Fooey) Fuy Pfui Pyuy Don’t Do That Las Das Sine Fuy Nem Szabad OK In Achtung Vyborne Genau Jol Van Eat Food Nim Foota Vemsi Egyel Helper Stand Still Bleiben Sie Ruhing Ruce Vzhuru Madadj CsondbenArticle Search Verlorem Hledey, Oznac KeresdLeave It Pas Touche (Pa-too-shay) Crazy Dog Blearta Hund Bad Dog Brouza Hund Bad Girl Zozu liebe Not For You Nix Du Denk Machs What Are You Doing? Vas Du Denk Machs Inferior Dies Es Schlecht Quiet Ruhigsie Slow Lungsem Fast Schnell Go Gaytsu, Gehen Closer Dik-By Further Voruit

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PUPPIES OR ADULTS TERMS OF SALE 1. This Guarantee is in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied and seller’s sole obligation in the event of failure of such guarantee will be to replace said dog. Under no circumstances shall the seller be obligated to refund buyer’s purchase price, buyer’s sole remedy to be a replacement dog. 2. Said dog is guaranteed by seller to be healthy, free of parasites and crippling dysplasia (grades 4 & 5) 3. If the puppy has any health problem within the first 72 hours, bring the puppies back to Von Fal-coner’s veterinary service. Our veterinary service is Ty McConnell D.V.M. 831-438-0751 this doctor will treat your puppy or adult dog and examine any health problem. If the puppies need to stay here longer until they’re healthy we will board them free of charge until he/she is healed. If the dog needs to be replaced due to a genetic problem, we will take care of the exchange. I understand Von Falconer Canine doesn’t give cash refunds. Once the dog or puppy is purchased. If we do not have the same color or sex available you will have to wait for the time it takes to replace the dog or puppy. If you choose to run up a Bill from another Veterinary clinic this expense is not the responsibility of Von Falconer Canine Training Facility. 4. There will be no refunds after the dog is purchased. (Only puppy or adult dog replacement can be made). 5. Buyer understands that the Registration Papers may take up to one year to receive. 6. Temperament will be guaranteed if we train dog and monitor for fourteen months of puppy’s life. 7. This dog will not be spayed or neutered until it is 2 years old. If owner neuters or spays this dog, contract on this dog will be void.

X Date

WAIVER OF CONTRACT & LIABILITYI understand that any mishandling or improper care by myself or anyone appointed by me to care for, handle or train (name of dog) by any other than Von Falconer instructors, releases Von Falconer International, Mary Gangloff, Eric Falconer of Von Falconer K-9 at 750 Comstock Lane, Santa Cruz or any appointed Von Falconer International instructor from any liability. Also that I am required to attend 8 hours of training with the dog to learn proper handling. Any violation of the above conditions will terminate contract and guarantee will not be honored.

X Date

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GUARANTEE

FULLY TRAINEDAll police, family, and executive service dogs purchased are guaranteed to he mentally and physically sound upon delivery. After 72 hours, have the dog tested by a certified credible agency. (This time delay is to allow the dog to settle into the new environment) upon successful completion you have a two year replacement guarantee, from date of purchase, for debilitating hip/elbow dysplasia, not caused by improper care, handling or training. There are no cash refunds.

PUPPIESYou have 72 hours after arrival to have the puppy checked by the Veterinarian of your choice. All pup-pies come with health records. If within two years from the date of purchase the dog develops de-bilitating hip/elbow dysplasia that is not caused by improper care, handling or training, the dog will be replaced at no additional charge. There are no cash refunds.

TEENSAfter 72 hours have the dog tested from a certified credible agency, this time delay is to allow the dog to settle into the new surroundings. Upon successful completion you have a two year replacement guarantee, from the date of purchase, for debilitating hip/elbow dysplasia, not caused by improper care, handling or training. There are no cash refunds. These dogs come with prelim x-rays and health records.

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PRICES

Female Male Puppies $1,500.00 $2,000.00 (and up) Teens $3,500.00 $3,500.00 Green Service $6,500.00 $6,500.00 Fully Trained/Patrol Dogs $18,000.00 $20,000.00

Due to the European vs U.S. Dollar Currency Exchange Rates Prices Are Subject to Change

PAYMENTS

Civilian importing 50% non refundable deposit. Balance due upon conformation of arrival.

Police agencies - Please contact up to establish a proposal.

Puppies, Teens, Green, Fully Trained. (Not special import orders) 50% non refundable deposit, balance due two weeks prior to a shipment date

We accept: Checks, Visa, Master Card, Discover, and American Express.

Shipping and crates are extra. The cost of shipping varies according to your location.

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FAMILY AND EXECUTIVE PROTECTION DOGS

In order for an adult dog to be a family and an executive protection dog they must pass the criteria listed below.• Must be 18 months to three years of age. • Must be a German Shepherd, Malinois, Dutch Shepherd. • Must be in excellent health and certified by a licensed veterinarian. • Hips and elbows xray. (Certified by a recognized animal orthopedic agency.) • Must be social. • Have high drive to chase ball or toy inside building or outside, also when same object is thrown out of sight.

DOGS MUST BITE IN THE FOLLOWING SITUATIONSON UNDERCOVER SLEEVE OR BODYSUIT.

Inside building low light A) Confined area, closets, hallways, etc. B) On stairs. C) On slippery floors. D) A running person. E) A person attacking handler.

OutsideA) Under gun fire. B) A person sitting in a vehicle (back seat) C) A running person. D) A person attacking handler.

SEARCH

• Must locate and bite person hiding in wooded area at least 1/4 acre. • Must locate and bite person hiding in building at least 2500 sq. feet.

Titles accepted. KNPV, Ring, EPO, Schutzhund.

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New Puppies

Puppy’s First Night to First Year

Note: The purpose of the puppy program is to condition the puppy to learn, and that learning and doing things are fun. The program aims at preventing problems rather than correcting problems later. This purpose of “puppy program” must be fully understood. Therefore, DO NOT attempt to program any puppy until you are familiar with Clarence Pfaffenberger’s “The New Knowledge of Dog Behavior”.

Day 0: Puppies whelped

Day 3: Start taking puppies outside on a clean blanket for a couple of minutes a day, then take them inside again.

The First critical period, Days 1-21Newborn puppies are undeveloped. They do not hear or see. Their senses of smell and touch are functioning. The puppies should be handled a little bit, like for weighing every day. Subject the puppies to small amount of stress, e.g. different under covers, cold temperatures, also, they can be conditioned to certain smells at this age. EEG (Electroencephalograph) tracings show that the puppies waking brain-wave pattern is identical to their sleeping brain-wave pattern. This means that they do not have true consciousness and they will remain so until the 20th day of their life. While their “conscious” brain cannot yet be programmed, this is not so with certain reflex pathways in their spinal cords (work researched since Pfaffenberger’s book). The first reflex which can be conditioned is the pannus (or cutaneous) muscle reflex. Conditioning of this reflex, so that it becomes abolished, or inactive, or non-responsive to human touch, begins it critical period at Day 14 and finishes at Day 28. We call this “The Critical Period of Touch Conditioning”. Cutaneous muscle, under the skin, all over the body, will twitch (startle response) when skin is touched, throughout life, by human beings of whichever sex do not take part in touch conditioning. In adult dogs (over 4 months), we see this as a dog which will not stand still and be willingly touched (examined) by any men, or by any women, whichever it lacked in its condition-ing in this period of 14-28 days. This is the dog (or bitch) which has to be shown “only under female judges” or “won’t let a man touch him/her”. No type of later “training” will reliably bring a touch-shy dog out of this too frequently seen behavior fault. So do not fail to program your puppies for both male and female touch! This is imperative for pets, show trials, guides, police, etc. Take the puppies outside on a clean blanket for a couple of minutes each day.

Day 9 - Day 12: Eyes open during this period, but puppies cannot focus, nor is there any conscious awareness of anything “seen”.

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New Puppies

Day 11 - 13: Ear canals begin to open for function, but are not “hooked up” for conscious interpreta-tion of sounds. No sound conditioning is possible until day 23.

Day 14: Begin touch conditioning, this is done by having a man and a woman each handle each puppy for 2-3 minutes twice daily. Handle head, muzzle, neck, body, legs, and tail, touch and rub back against hair gently. Remember to wash hands first!

Day 15-21: week 3: The puppy goes through a lot of physical changes. The baby teeth erupt at about 15 days. Do touch conditioning and expose the puppy to mild stress. Take the puppies outside every day.

Day 20: On this day all puppies brains are slowly (some faster than others) awakening. Begin observing continuously. Note which of each sex “wakes up” first. Mark these two, for example by cutting a small patch of hair on their backs, or marking with nail polish.

Day 21: CONSCIOUS LIFE BEGINS NOW. Touch conditioning. When you do your touch conditioning on this most exciting day, watch the faces! For the first time they react consciously to your presence. You have looked at the puppies many times, but today you are seeing them as never before.

The Second critical period, Days 22-49Day 22-28, week 4: This is the single most important week in a puppy’s lifetime. The puppy is now aware of self-environment. The puppy learns he is a dog. He learns to accept discipline, he learns sub-mission. He moves around on wobbly steps and should curiosity and begin exploring the environment. NOTE: Any puppy intended for conditioning as a compulsive retriever must be weaned absolutely by the end of this week. This is very important for the future obedience dog.

Continue touch conditioning every day this week.

This is the puppy’s first week of conscious life as we know it: they should NOT be disturbed or trau-matized in any way except for the two brief daily exercise periods of touch conditioning. Any traumatic experience during this week can have far-reaching, lifelong, unpleasant results. During this week, you should organize the gathering of “the puppy toys”. These include objects made of ALL of the following: rubber, vinyl, plastic (squeak toys), metal (band-aid rollers, 6” lengths of conduit which later become utility obedience articles-, ice cream tin lids bent in half, etc.), glass (small brown vitamin-pill bottles, etc. with lids removed), fabric (notably 2 long “footy” socks each having two knots tied, one at either end. These are later rolled into balls and become 2 of your most important tracking articles in your early tracking training. Leather - use 6 strips of fresh, new cowhide, 6” long by 1” wide. These also become vital later on in both tracking and obedience, as well as search and rescue, and red cross work. Rawhide - these are 100 % edible treated beef-hide items; the ones shaped like potato crisps and called “pup-chips” are the ones to provide at this time. These provide the ideal teething substance and are instinc-tively more satisfying to puppies than are any other articles. Do NOT include wooden articles at this stage.

Do not exclude anything from this collection, and replace anything that gets lost. This is being done for several very important reasons, which you will appreciate more and more as you begin serious train-ing, and you find that while other dogs must learn to retrieve, to find by scent, to tolerate metal in their mouths, etc.- you have a dog with a custom-built mind, who does these things automatically. Virtually anything can be incorporated into a puppy program once we know the critical period.

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During this period the puppy should be guarded against trauma of any kind. Make this period a stable period in the puppy’s life. The puppy can be moved to different areas temporarily to be conditioned to different surfaces, but do not change the puppy’s permanent area, and do not change the schedule.

Day 28: Last day of touch conditioning.

Week 4, Day 29-35: This is also a very important week. Begin sound conditioning. This is the abolition of the startle response, which will otherwise occur whenever loud or sudden noises are heard. I should not have to point out the vital importance of this. Remember that dogs do not inherit gun shyness.

4-6 loud bangs daily, when puppies are sleeping, eating, playing but NOT when puppies are looking at you or coming towards you.

42, then review by testing for sound startle once weekly. The program should include all types of sounds to which the pup will be subjected to while working in its adult job. Use guns, cap-pistols, saucepan lids; always expose them to the sound of a stock whip being cracked. Use tape recordings of crowds, traffic, babies crying, trains, heavy machinery, etc. Ideally, the pups should placed individually in a sound proof booth when they are subjected to the tape recordings. The dam should be out of the puppies’ range of vision and hearing while sound conditioning is being done. Do not omit any type of these sounds. This is one of the most important parts of the “programmed puppy”. Introduce a stable male dog as “daddy” to teach the puppies a different perspective from the start. Introduce puppies to obstacle course, e.g. tunnel, tires, covered balance walk, etc.

Day 35: Puppies are 5 weeks old. They have better control of their bodies, they can walk over obsta-cles, walk up and down stairs. They should recognize familiar persons, and show curiosity about other people, other animals, and new surroundings. Continue sound conditioning. Begin reinforcing the “fol-lowing response”.

Week 5, Day 36-42: Reinforce the “following response” as follows. Take each pup separately to a large, open, grassy area. Handler places pup on grass and slowly walks away without speaking, or look-ing back. Go 10 feet, stop, face pup and wait quietly till the pup begins a distress cry “I’m lost”. Then, clap hands and move body back and forth till the puppy sees you and approaches. Hold the pups head in your hands for 3-4 secs. Then walk slowly away again. Repeat over and over until the puppy follows whenever you move off. Limit this to 5 minutes daily per pup - up to week 7 (day 49). Note: do not reinforce “following” in any areas in which persons other than yourself can be seen or heard by the puppies. The “following” response will occur towards you in a much reduced form if other humans or animals are present. The importance of this response will not become obvious until much later in the puppy’s behavioral development

Continue sound conditioning.

Introduce other people, children, wheelchairs, cats, and all else now.

Day 42: Puppies are 6 weeks old. Test for any residue of sound startle. Last day of sound conditioning. Reinforce “following”.

New Puppies

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Week 6, day 42-49: Puppy proof the environment!*Begin daily car trips with the puppy NOW! Even very short trips will effectively condition the puppy’s sensory reactions to car travel. *Man - dog socialization must never begin later than this week. Also work on establishment of your authority as the “alpha”. *Begin “bag-work” - using a long, knotted sock. *Begin “play-retrieve” Isolation conditioning begins NOW and is done daily through week 9. *Location conditioning begins now and continues till the end of last critical period. *Practice on ob-stacle course.

Day 42: Socialize. Short car trip. Play with long sock. Play-retrieve. Isolate briefly. Go to new location. Reinforce “following”. Make puppy go through tunnel to follow. Day 43: Socialize. Car trip. Play with long sock. Play-retrieve. lsolate briefly. Go to a new location. Rein-force “following”. Make puppy go through tunnel to follow. Day 44: Socialize. Car trip. Play with long sock. Play-retrieve. lsolate briefly. Go to a new location. Rein-force “following”. Help the puppy walk on the balance walk. Day 45: Socialize. Car trip. Play with long sock. Play-retrieve. lsolate briefly. Go to a new location. Rein-force “following”. Help the puppy walk on the balance walk. Day 46: Socialize. Car trip. Play with long sock. Play-retrieve. lsolate briefly. Go to a new location. Rein-force “following”. Help the puppy walk on the balance walk. Day 47: Socialize. Car trip. Play with long sock. Play-retrieve. lsolate briefly. Go to a new location. Rein-force “following”. Sit in a swing and swing with the puppy. Call the puppy over a small obstacle. Day 48: Socialize. Car trip. Play with long sock. Play-retrieve. lsolate briefly. Go to a new location. Rein-force “following”. Sit in a swing and swing with the puppy. Call the puppy over a small obstacle.

Day 49: 7 weeks old.

The puppy can go to his/her new home. Socialize. Car trip. Play with long sock. Play-retrieve. Isolate briefly. Go to a new location. Last day for reinforcing “following”. 1st vaccination. Note: Vaccination using Edmonston-strain measles virus should be given at 7 weeks. This is assuming that the bitch was vacci-nated within 12 months of whelping. Test for any residual startle to sound. *First swim. If weather is OK, swim outside, if weather is bad, use the bath-tub. DO IT!

The Third critical period, Days 50-84

Week 7, day 50-56: The puppy has the learning ability of an adult dog from 7 weeks onwards. Start house training, and crate training. Start conditioning the puppy to grooming, and to wearing a collar and leash. Start puppy obedience, using a flat-strap padded puppy collar. 5 minutes only per session.

All week do the following: *Handling and restraining the puppy. *Obedience (habitual) training, follow on your left side off leash, sit.

New Puppies

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New Puppies

*Man-dog socialization. *Dog-dog socialization. *Location conditioning in different places. *lsolation conditioning, start in the crate. *Play retrieve and bag work. *Practice gaiting and show-posing everyday. *Practice obstacle course work. INCLUDE NIGHT WORK!Note: Begin collecting your “set of 12 articles”, i.e. those required in the “reversed incentive” system of tracking training. A set of 12 objects, all known to the dog, is accumulated and includes one special or favorite article - usually one of the puppy’s toys. It also includes 4 black leather gloves and 18 utility scent discrimination articles (6 leather, 6 metal, 6 wood).

Day 56, 8 weeks old: Test for sound startle. Swim (5-10 minutes in still water).

Week 8, day 57-63: This is a fear period when traumatic experiences have a profound effect. Keep the puppy in stable circumstances, and keep the puppy safe from trauma. *Continue house training *Do handling and grooming *Do puppy obedience, using the flat collar. Do attention training, sit, stand, down. *Man-dog and dog-dog socialization. *Location conditioning and longer isolation conditioning. *Retrieving now includes a wide variety of objects. Include all the “puppy toys” in the set of retrieved objects. *Bag work. Introduce a piece of Hessian (burlap). INCLUDE NIGHT WORK!!! *Take the puppy into traffic. *Take the puppy into crowds.

Day 63, 9 weeks old: Test for sound startle. Swim.

Week 9, day 64-70: *Puppy obedience training sessions can be increased to 15 minutes. Still use flat collar. Introduce the finish, introduce the go-out *Take puppy for walks in the neighborhood. *Continue location conditioning and continue with longer periods of isolation. *Practice retrieves, bag exercises; test for sound startle. *Practice show stance and gaiting. *Practice obstacle course. *Do some dominance exercises. Handle the puppy a lot. INCLUDE WORK AT NIGHT, AND IN TRAFFIC AND IN CROWDS!

Day 70,10 weeks old: Test for sound startle. Swim in still water, or surf.

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New Puppies

Week 10, day 71-77: *Take the puppy into crowds and traffic; work at night often. *Continue with man-dog and dog-dog socialization *puppy obedience training *retrieving, bag-work *location training: do elevators, many different places *isolation training, longer periods *posing and gaiting *obstacle course *handling and grooming *walks in the neighborhood

Day 77:11 weeks old: Test for sound startle. Swim.

Week 11, day 78-84:The puppy receives the first polyvalent vaccination this week. Continue exactly as in previous week. This week you must decide whether or not your puppy is going to undergo “bite-inhibition” conditioning. This is normally done between week 12 and week 16, as follows: The puppy must have free periods to engage in play fighting with one or more puppies of the same approximate age. When they “attack” each other, they learn to inhibit or soften their bites. Do NOT omit this unless you are skilled in handling and living with a Schutzhund dog. Puppies which do not undergo bite inhibi-tion grow up to be very hard biters. This is very useful for dogs that are intended for the Schutzhund sport or for service. These dogs will have to be played with using an object such as a burlap sack,or other pulling and biting object, because they are too rough for play using one’s hands or unprotected arms for the dog to grasp in play. NOW is when you must decide on this part of your puppy’s program.

The Fourth critical period, week 12-16, Days 85-112

Week 12, day 85-91: If puppy is to undergo bite-inhibition, place him/her in yard or pen with peers of approximately similar age for at least 2 hours daily. *Continue obedience training to include introductions to all the AKC obedience exercises. *Do longer isolation periods, socialization, location conditioning; crowds and night work. *Do retrieves, bag work, show posing and gaiting. *Swim *Practice obstacle course. *Take puppy traveling and include overnight stays. The puppy is working off-lead now if you have been following the program.

Day 91:13 weeks old: Work in crowds and traffic at night. Test for sound startle. Swim.

Week 13, day 92-98*Bite-inhibition. *Socialization (man and dog). If you stop now, your puppy may become desocialized. *Bag-work; play-retrieves; location and isolation conditioning continues. *Puppy obedience training session. *Show standing and gaiting. *Do crowds, traffic, and night work. Do not let up on any of these programs. You are your at last 3 weeks.

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Day 98: 14 weeks old: Test for sound startle. Swim.

Week 14,day 99-105*Bite-inhibition. *Socialization (man and dog). Bite-inhibition can be combined with dog-dog socialization, only if the same-age peers are being used in both. *Location, and isolation conditioning. Retrieves and bag-work. *Posing and gaiting. “Obedience training, now you can start increasing the demands on attention.

Day 105: 15 weeks old: Test for sound startle. Swim.

Week 15,day 105-112*Bite-inhibition. Review all parts of the program. Test responses. Expose the puppy to as much as possible.

Day 112:16 weeks old: CELEBRATE!The puppy receives the second polyvalent vaccination today (distemper, hepatitis, leptospiroses, and par influenza). The dog gets a yearly booster for the rest of his/her life.

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Postscript: If you have not followed your program, you can now prepare to begin months or even years of “remedial” or “corrective” training. If you have progress into any type of advanced obedience, guide dog work, hunting, herding, guard, Schutzhund work - or just know that you have a companion animal which is steady, fearless, and reliable among men, women, and children, in crowds, traffic storms, gunfire, etc and around other dogs.

If you are going to proceed with formal obedience training, you are now ready to begin in earnest,to learn to communicate with your programmed dog.

From birth to 16 weeks puppies follow the same development. After 4 months, the larger breeds de-velop slower than smaller breeds.

4-6 months. Teething. This puts stress on some puppies. Some puppies are oblivious to the teething. Others seem to get painful gums. Be careful and show and tell rather than correcting a puppy dur-ing this period. Puppies tend to chew a lot during this period,so provide lots of safe chew toys. Feed 2 meals a day from now on throughout the dog’s life. The puppy should receive a rabies vaccination.

4-8 months. Some time between 4-8 months fear periods may appear with the flight instinct dominating the puppy’s behavior. A fear period may last up to two weeks. Handle onsets of fear calmly. DO NOT under any circumstances “comfort” the puppy. Do not make a big issue out of the puppy’s fear. Try to make the puppy investigate, or at least ignore the object that he/she found scary. Allow the puppy to work it out. Walk past the object many times, so the puppy gets used to it again.

6-14 months. Some breeds are mature at 10 months. Larger breeds tend to take longer, and could take up to 2-3 years to fully mature. During this period,the puppy could have more fear periods of new situ-ations. These fear periods may be correlated with growing periods. Allow the puppy to work it out. Do not push, but continue training. The training is a confidence builder in itself. If you followed the whole puppy program there will be considerable fewer, if any, instances of fear periods. Teach a 30 minute Down-Stay.

Between 1-2 years. There will be tests for dominance. The dog particularly the males, attain a new level of assertion. The first serious dog fights occur. Use obedience training to assert yourself, particularly the 30 minute Down-Stay. If you have a submissive dog,the obedience training is even more important as a confidence builder. However, if you have followed the puppy program from Day 1,you should be able to assert yourself over the dog with just a look and a voice reprimand.

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DOG BEHAVIOR

Before we can begin any handling, it will be necessary to know a little about the dog. How do you recognize certain behavior? How do you tell when he’s playing? When is he going to fight or when is he going to run? Why does he act the way he does?

There are 2 areas which influence dog behavior - instinct and environment: Instinct is behavior which is specific to the species. It is evident in the species just as is shape. Instinct is not learned so much as it is passed down.

Behavior, influenced by environment, is that which is a learned trait, adapted through training, socializa-tion or any other external input or impression.

For example: The searching for birds in the sky is instinctual for bird dogs as is the sniffing of the ground instinctual for hounds. On the other hand, dogs who walk on their hind feet and jump rope, as seen in circus trained dogs, are demonstrating an environmental influence. A knowledge of instinctual behavior will aid in your association with any dog.

Territorial ImperativeThe concept of space in the animal kingdom is universal. The lion trainer moves his big cats about the cage by this concept. In the dog, the space concept is evident continually and needs complete compre-hension by the handler to complement his knowledge and speed learning.

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The outermost limits of the dog space is his “home range”, this area may be shared with others of the species and it is only lightly marked. In the wild this would be the outer hunting limits. In our modern dog society, it might be just a few doors away or several blocks.

Within the home range is a more protected area, this is the “territorial area”, this is the home turf, home ground. This is well marked and defended, it is shared with others of the pack, but seldom is an outsider allowed to penetrate the border without confrontation. Each member of the pack shares re-sponsibility in the protection of the territory.

The “intimate zone” is a personal area around each individual, this “personal area” is penetrated only by personal relations. The mate, or juveniles of the pack, has access to this area, but seldom do other adults of the same sex, socialization has caused a wide variance in the “intimate zone” rules and they vary as to the dominance level of the dog and his position within the pack as well as the influence of domestication.

“Critical areas” are the inner personal zones, penetration of this area usually elicits a fight response. This inner space violation can result in grave injury to the violator, some dogs have a large critical space while others have almost none, again due to socialization and domestication.

There is a zone from the critical space area to an area between the home range and territorial border, this “flight zone” will be followed if intrusion occurs. Flight will continue until the critical space is vio-lated, then “flight” will turn to “fight”.

In some animals such as the grizzly bear, there is a little difference between the “flight zone” and the “critical zone”. On entering the flight zone, the bear will turn and move away, however, one step closer might violate his critical space, he will then turn and give chase.

The lion trainer moves in to the lion’s flight zone, which causes the lion to back away. Once the lion has moved to where the lion trainer wants him, the trainer steps back out of the flight zone, stopping the lion’s retreat.

When duties require the dog handler to enter unfamiliar areas and they are suddenly confronted with a dog, how do they know if he is in the flight zone, territory, intimate or critical space?

If you’ve ventured into a fenced area, you can be sure you’re penetrating the territory, if you are not un-der a charge by the dog, you probably have not violated his critical space, however one more step may.

You can sometimes tell what your situation is by the posture assumed by a dog, generally, this will give a good indication of your predicament. However, caution is called for, although a dog’s body language can be read with a good deal of accuracy, there are some exceptions.

The dog who is raised alone, in a cage with little socialization, may not give “correct signs”, they may also be very slight and missed in the excitement.

Oddly enough, the body language of man and dog are similar under stress, both animals posture or try to make themselves look larger, this piloerection, when observed in dogs, is displayed by raised hair on the rump and shoulders. The neck is arched and the head held high, the legs are straight and stiff with the dog up on his toes. This give an impression of height, the tail goes up and stiffens, the tip may wag stiffly at high frequency.

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During intense threats, the neck may be lowered as the dog points to his adversary, he may also raise one leg and urinate, them scrape the ground like a pawing bull

Heavy eye contact will usually cause the dog to back off or charge, if his weight shifts backwards, his tail drops a little or his ears drop a little, he’s probably bluffing. When the muscles of the face pull back stretching the lips, pulling the eyes and ears back, the dog is giving signs of submission. Submission is also indicated by a dropped or tucked tail, hair hackled and raised up on the neck and back, and an obvious lack of eye contact.

The opposite is the facial muscle drawn forward, lips, eyes and ears pulled into this alert position with heavy eye contact. The lips are raised to display the canine teeth, tail position is high, stiff and flagging. The tip moves in a rapid motion, while the rest is stiff and high, as if flagging someone.

These are general instinctive signs and the dog may display any or all of them in combination. A balance of aggressive and submissive signs cannot always be measured adequately to determine a level of domi-nance. A wolf in the wild will display a fairly exacting form, while the domestic dog’s body language may have been modified by human domestication and socialization. Experience will determine your ability to read the dog and extricate yourself from such an encounter safely, or reasonably so.

Returning to your precarious position over the fence facing a dog on his home territory is a good time to bring up one additional instinctual response particular to the dog. This is the “chase reflex”, the “chase reflex” is a response to flight. If you choose to dash for the fence, you have a 99% chance of releasing this “chase reflex” and the not-so-brave dog will become omnipotent and charge.

Remember, you must read the dog as a whole, just because he is displaying submission signs with his ears and tail, do not disregard the forward body position, short opening in the lips and other signs of aggression. You must read him accurately. Is he avoiding eye contact or is his stare hard, solid and without fear?

Body language is used to increase or maintain social distances by displays or threats or an actual attack. It is also used to elicit play and contact from loved ones or litter mates, by a slight advance or retreat from position, you will cause a visible change in the body language. If on your advance the tail and ears drop and body weight shifts backwards, the dog is probably bluffing. However, when you turn your back, the fear biter may charge in, get a quick nip, then dart away to a safe zone.

The simultaneous ambivalent behavior must be recognized as a mixture of both aggression and submis-sion. One end may be displayed aggression while the other indicates play or friendliness, this can be caused by a paradox between a desire to be friendly, but a responsibility to protect his territory.

In most cases, if the tail is held stiff and high, it is a sign of aggression or a display of dominance. It makes some difference though if the tail is wagging or flagging, a widely swiping, wagging tail indicate low ag-gression, high alertness such as spotting game or play solicitation.

At the other end of the scale, defecation/urination is a universal canine sign of fear, a tucked tail, ears and facial muscles drawn back, rolling over exposing the stomach and genitals also indicate fear and submission.

Submissive and dominance signs are dependent on the dog’s personality and where he is, a dog will demonstrate less dominance in someone else’s well-marked territory, but will become very brave and dominant in his own, particularly when he’s supported by a pack member, the pack member can be a man or a dog.

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Smell each other

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A dog that is challenging his owner for the position of pack leader may exhibit some or all of the offensive threat signals, especially holding the ears up and forward, starring directly at the owner, and standing tall with the tail held high. Other dominant behaviors include nipping of skin or clothes, mounting or riding up on people, guarding or stealing food or other objects, or elimination (marking) within the house except during the house training of puppies

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Position 2 Position 3

Position 2

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To get an idea of a high drive dog, we have to picture in our minds a hunting dog such as a Lab-rador Retriever retrieving a downed bird for his master, or an Australian cattle dog taking a herd of cattle back to their corral. These dogs do what they were bred to do, and that is work, they work hard all day and will spend a relaxing evening at home with their masters, because their energy has been expended.

Now take the same two dogs out of this working environment and move them both into an at-home living style, where the dogs’ owners work all day and deal with their families all evening, rarely giving the dogs any attention. Neither of these owners or dogs will have many relaxing evenings at home, because the high energy levels of these dogs will eventually result in a long list of behavioral problems.

Owning a high energy or high drive dog has its good points and bad points, owning a dog that is always ready to work can be a good thing for a person who is very active and spends a lot of time with their dog. Someone who finds ways to help the dog release energy, but cooping them up can cause problems.

High drive European-bred working dogs such as German Shepherds, Malinois, and Dutch Shep-herds are being brought into the US by serious working dog breeders, police departments, and working dog trainers because their hardiness, sound temperaments, physical structure and high drives make them suitable for the work they are required to do. But it is becoming more and more common to find owners who have very little knowledge of the requirements in owning such a dog, as a result, these owners are paying the price finding many drawbacks to owning a dog like this.

Remember, all dog breeds were developed with a specific purpose in mind, acquiring a dog just for the way it looks or for the image that it creates without taking the breed’s characteristics into account can lead to problems.

A dog with very high drive can be very hard to live with, destructive behavior may occur be-cause the dog needs to release his pent up energy somehow. Destructive chewing is the most common way a dog releases energy, digging is also a way dog might release energy. Also you may observe bursts of energy where the dog runs in what appears to be a mad frenzy around the house, jumping over furniture and knocking over anything in its path. Dogs with a lot of stored up energy may also bark too much, jump fences, or mouth or bite human body parts.

Prevention is the best solution, breeders of high drive dogs should carefully screen buyers to determine if they will be able to offer the dog a suitable lifestyle. The owners of these dogs should have a fenced in yard and plenty time to be with their dog, as well as the physical ability to handle such a dog properly. They should also have sufficient knowledge of the breed, a wise seller will discuss the possibility of a more suitable breed for the buyer, or even discourage dog ownership of any kind for those buyers who lack the lifestyle to properly care for a dog.

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Problem Solving

For owners of high drive dogs that exhibit behavior problems, success depends on the owner, not the dog, daily exercises like long walks are required to calm an energetic dog. Dogs with high drive will also show signs of high prey and chase instincts lots of play with balls, kongs, fris-bees and other chase toys will help to burn up energy. Involvement in obedience classes where the stress is associated with learning will also help to use up the dog’s energy, while at the same time, learning to control the dog will allow owners to enjoy their dogs more.

Some training facilities offer agility and tracking classes for those who are interested in improv-ing their dog’s athletic skill and scenting ability, both of these abilities will allow the dog to burn off energy and are very enjoyable for both the dog and owner.

The ideal owner of a high drive dog paints a picture something like this The owner gets up early before work to take the dog for a walk. The dog is enrolled in an obedience class where the whole family attends and watches one member handle the dog and everyone learns how to control the dog through both experience and observation. The children get to play with the dog in the backyard, throwing toys for the dog to retrieve, the dog is honing its skill and is also becoming more and more obedient. Because of the attention and the care taken to insure the dog’s exercise, when playtime is over the dog does not create a problem with excess energy, everyone is happy and content, including the dog.

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I have found the e-collar to be a valuable and useful tool in the training of police service dogs, while I am an advocate of e-collars, they cannot be used on all dogs. I see the use of food, play, verbal cues and praise, as well as the more traditional collars and leashes, as a more primary tool. Since e-collars can be easily misused and can quickly create serious problems, I recommend anyone interested to seek a trainer who is knowledgeable and learn how to use the e-collar properly.

The key is to use the e-collar correctly, as with most things, there is a right way and a wrong way to use this valuable tool. Too many times a handler or even a trainer buys an e-collar be-cause they feel their dog is out of control responding to commands only when they feel like it. So the handler slaps an e-collar on his dog and turns him loose, then for example he gives the recall command, and when the dog does not respond, he improperly uses the e-collar. With the collar set with the stimulation to high, he tries to recall the dog with stimulation.

This process will only teach the dog one thing how to beat the pain. The dog will normally re-spond in one of three ways one, he bolts from the spot and runs as quickly and as far away as he can. If the collar has automatic shut-off, 10 seconds for example, the dog learns that if he runs away for 10.1 seconds, the stimulation turns off. A second response may be to freeze on the spot until the stimulation shuts off, in both cases, the dog learns that if he grits his teeth for 10 seconds, the stimulation goes away.

The third probable response is the dog come running back to his owner. Terrific, huh? Not necessarily. When the dog gets back to his owner, the stimulation turns off. Dogs are extremely place-oriented. The dog may associate the spot by his handler with safety, and we have just cre-ated a ranging problem.

So, it is very important that we know how to properly use the electronic collar.

First we must be sure the dog understands the command we want him to respond to, you must make sure the dog completely understands the command before correcting him for disobedi-ence. You must remember that most of the dogs we receive for police service work we know very little about, so if the previous handler took some shortcuts in the initial training or founda-tion training, the dog may not be sure what we are asking him to do.

If the dog is not sure of the command, the training method may become punishment training. If punishment training is your sole training program, this will create a dog that performs inconsis-tently at best.

Therefore we must first familiarize the dog with the e-collar. After you are sure the dog under-stands the command completely, you are ready to use stimulation. You must first find the proper level of stimulation. You look for a twitch in the eye, a momentary stop of tail wagging or some other such telltale sign the dog felt the stimulation. If the dog vocalizes or shows obvious pain, the level is too high.

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It is important that you use a training collar that has variable levels of stimulation and operates in the continuous stimulation mode.

After determining the correct stimulation level you are ready to teach the dog how to turn the stimulation off, you first put a line on your dog and stand within a couple of feet of the dog. You then apply the stimulation and immediately follow with the “down” command, you keep the stimulation on until the dog is in the down position.

In the next stage, the dog learns to turn the stimulation off himself, after some repetition the dog will go down upon feeling the low-level of stimulation. He won’t even wait for the com-mand, now you know the dog understands how to turn off the stimulation. It is very important the dog understands this, as it makes it much easier for the dog to learn how to avoid stimula-tion altogether.

In the next stage, you give the command “down” with no stimulation at first, followed by stimu-lation only if the dog does not respond to the command. At this stage you give the command only once, the dog will gain confidence once he understands he can avoid the stimulation by responding to the command the first time it is given.

Once you have taught the down command, you can use the same process to teach any other disciplines you need.

It takes genetics, training, and proper nutrition to create a high quality police service dog. You must choose your vendors, dogs, and trainers carefully so that you can be sure that you are get-ting quality dogs and training.

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Breed HistoryIt is said that the Dutch, Belgian, and German Shepherd Dogs resemble each other and are closely related, the differences, especially between the Dutch and Belgian, are very small. Some-times people say that the difference is artificial and they really belong to the same breed.

The Belgian Shepherd dog comes from the Northern provinces of Belgium which borders the province of Nord-Brabant in the Netherlands, it is said that the Shepherds from the Nether-lands and Belgium had crossed the borders and a significant relationship developed through the centuries. At present there is a greater difference between the Dutch and Belgian Shepherd, but at one point they may have been varieties of the same breed, now breeders speak more of the differences than the resemblances.

At this time the most notable difference between the Dutch and Belgian Shepherd is the color, at one point in time there were fawn Dutch Shepherds along with the many different color brindles seen today. This is shown in the Kennel Club Belge stud book 1933 to 1937, there is a preference for a black mask, but not a necessity.

White CrowAt the beginning of this century most Dutch Shepherd dogs were predominantly white. In that period the first standard was drafted in which was written that dogs that were white or mostly white were ruled out from breeding. This decision, taken in 1909 was hasty it decreased the number of dogs for breeding making the base too small which caused problems to the construc-tion of the breed. The dark colored dogs were the white crows! During the development of the breed, the German Shepherd, the Lakenois, and Tervuren were used. As of today there is still much white seen on their feet, faces, chests and tails.

Short HairThe short hair Dutch Shepherd is an active, alert and courageous dog. He is intelligent and is a quick learner, he is generally good friends in a family with children and gets along well with other pets, but tends to have a special person it gets along with. Years ago the Dutch Shepherd was said to be “sharp”, meaning he may bite quickly. The average Dutch Shepherd now is more toler-ant but has not lost its courage.

The Dutch Shepherd has proven to be a great utility dog and they are often trained as Police dogs. At present they are becoming more popular in the KNPV in Holland. In the United States they have been found to be excellent Police dogs and are showing up in Schutzhund and French Ring Sport. Most Dutch Shepherds found in the KNPV have short hair and are not FCI regis-tered.

The Long HairThe long hair has a little different background and a different, more moderate character. There were not many long haired Dutch Shepherds in the Netherlands, in fact in 1937 the long hair was said to be extinct. Two long hairs were found and without much history of their lineage, many surprises were found in the off-spring. There was a strict selection of dogs bred and after a number of years in-breeding problems developed. They tried crossbreeding with the short haired Dutch Shepherds, but this brought undesirable qualities. In 1987 the long hair was bred to a beautiful Belgian Tervuren male with good health, coat, body structure and character. The off -spring were bred back to the long haired Dutch Shepherds and the quality of the long hair became better.

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Breed History

On the evening of April 22, 1936, there sped through the Shepherd Dog world the shocking report that Captain von Stephanitz had died unexpectedly. It is true that in February and March he had been indisposed, but he was so far restored to health again that he was able to resume his literary tasks. He sat at his desk and had even finished a cynological work when death sud-denly overtook him. It was a strange caprice of fate that called home Captain von Stephanitz on April 22nd. For that was the day on which was founded the former Verein for Deutsches Schaferhunde, our present Section (German Shepherd Dog Section of the Reichsverband f.d. Deutsche Hundewesen). Captain von Stephanitz had always hoped to die “in the service of the SV”, unfortunately that was not granted. A year before he was obliged for reasons of health to give up the direction of affairs and some months later to lay down his office. Anyone who after-wards observed him as judge or at his duty as Kormeister (breed inspector) could believe that the disturbance to his health was relieved but the illness was deep-seated and severe, as most of us had known. And so the end came quickly and unexpectedly, the deceased had attained the biblical age span and had experienced the greatest happiness of laboring humanity which comes when a man develops his life’s work to the highest pitch and sees it recognized upon all sides.

Captain von Stephanitz observed the conditions of German dogdom during the final decade of the nineteenth century. At this time associations had been founded for most of the German breeds which had set pure breeding and the betterment of the race as their aim. There was lacking, however, an organization to promote the very breed which Captain von Stephanitz con-sidered the best in origin and working characteristics, namely the German Shepherd. He called together some like-minded fanciers and on April 22, 1899, founded the Verein for Deutsches Schaferhunde. At the organization meeting he was chosen the leader of the Verein and remained president until July 1, 1935. He possessed the best qualifications for the work which can be imagined. As a cavalry officer he was well versed in the critical examination of horses, its theory of the mechanics of movement and the different working breeds of horses was known to him down to the smallest detail and had only to be applied to dogs.

Furthermore, he had a natural eye for breed questions which, coupled with a practical breeder’s point of view, provided the vision and foresight of which the breed had need. Proof of this are the breed standard of the German Shepherd Dog set up during the first period after the estab-lishment of the Verein and the outline for its breeding which were laid down in such compre-hensive and many sided form that their validity has been recognized even to the present day. Through his practical judging operations, the deceased carried out in practice the theoretically accepted rules in his long years of activity in the Verein. At first a few, later an increasing number of coworkers were so trained and influenced by him that they were able to absorb the stan-dards set up by their master for breeding and race and could in their turn likewise carry them out in practice.

To these activities devoted to race and breeding questions the deceased brought a second unusual qualification for his office. This was his great gift for organization, from the beginning he had so organized his Verein and established it on a basis conformable to rule that this work also

History of the German Shepherd

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needed only completion but no essential alteration. When today we cast a glance backwards and see what the deceased already considered and partly foresaw over thirty years ago we are astonished at his work and his foresight and gratefully thank the author of all these things.

Under these favorable circumstances success could not be lacking, the German Shepherd Dog, which until then had been like a rose blushing unseen, became well-known through Herr von Stephanitz and through its excellent qualities was esteemed by an ever greater number of fanci-ers. Membership in the Verein rose from year to year as new breeders were added, and the number of Shepherd Dogs at shows took a continuously upward line. It was not long before the German Shepherd Dog outstripped all other breeds and took the lead in all canine affairs. German Shepherd Dog fanciers were not limited to Germany. Foreign countries also gave at-tention to this German breed, first it was introduced into the countries adjoining Germany, but soon crossed the seas to England and America and now in the latest period has extended to the Far East, so that one can truthfully say it has circled the globe. It is idle to dispute in that regard whether the splendid qualities of the breed caused this wide popularity or whether the efforts of Herr von Stephanitz accomplished this result. Both naturally played some part but neither would have attained such tremendous success without the other and consequently to our founder and president of many years is due the renown of “his dog” not only in Germany but also throughout the whole world and “his child, the SV” he made into the greatest canine organization in the world.

The care of the deceased for the German Shepherd Dog did not concern itself only with the questions of breeding and organization of the Verein without considering ways and means to maintain and improve the qualities of the dog. Herr von Stephanitz early recognized that to re-tain the natural character of the breed the best means was work, and that dogs confined to the kennel must soon lose their good qualities. Because the true old-time work of our dogs, service with the flocks, became impossible for the overwhelming majority owing to the tremendous spread of the breed, since opportunities for work with the flocks were lacking, this true Mentor of the breed concluded to open up other fields of work.

He introduced during the early years training contests in which the dogs were tested for obe-dience and activity. From these important divisions of work developed very early, herr von Stephanitz pleaded for the use of dogs by the police and other authorities. At first his efforts were opposed and laughed at, gradually he prevailed by his unflagging efforts and succeeded in interesting the various authorities in the use of dogs for service, and gradually the introduction of service dogs was accomplished. When we view today our expanded system of dogs on duty, which the younger fanciers now take for granted, we must admire the achievement of Herr von Stephanitz here also. We older fanciers remember well enough the difficult negotiations and struggles which had to be carried on in behalf of the service dog and know that because of his pioneer work in this field, the deceased must be regarded as the Father of the service dog system in Germany.

It was clearly proper that the largest specialty club should also be called to play an authorita-tive role in the general affairs of dogdom. As so frequently happens in life to those whose la-bor has achieved great success, on the other hand, it was attached and vilified. Envy and malice played their part here also in rendering the task of Herr von Stephanitz more difficult. But in his case his opponents had caught the wrong man; and while in defense he often struck hard to further the success of the point of view which he believed in. Here also he won the victory. In

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the Deutsche Kerte!! fur Hundewesen, of which the SV was among the charter members, Herr von Stephanitz had a decisive influence. His executive ability bore fruit here also, and likewise in today’s Reichsverband fur das Deutsche Hundewesen he was a valued collaborator whose word carried weight.

A special quality of the deceased which we ought to remember was his extensive literary activ-ity. The numerous essays which today play a big part in canine literature were crowned by that great work, “The German Shepherd Dog in Word and Picture,” which appeared in eight edi-tions. In his searching and comprehensive ways he included everything related to the German Shepherd Dog: from the origin and relationship of shepherd and herding dogs through species and uses, breeding, rearing and handling, judging, education, and housing, up to show and training fixtures, buying and selling and shipping by rail. The work, replete with numerous illustrations, and written in an exceptionally striking style, is of importance not only to Shepherd Dog fanci-ers but is of great value to all dog lovers. It has received on all sides the honorable title of the “Canine Bible”. An English edition made the work available to the many friends of our breed in England and America.

A remarkable chance ordained that the death of Herr von Stephanitz almost coincided with the year’s national championship show in Cologne. The undersigned was commissioned to open the proceedings of the dog congress on the day before the show. Under the fresh impact of the fatal news he could not but begin the opening speech with the announcement of Herr von Stepha-nitz’s death. Of its own accord the assembled crowd rose to its feet and listened in silence to the sorrowful news.

On the first day of the show the judging was interrupted at four o’clock in the afternoon and the exhibitors and their dogs were assembled in the judging ring for the Open Dog class.

The undersigned delivered a short speech: “Members of the Section for German Shepherd Dogs: I herewith officially announce that on April 22nd of this year the founder and president for many years of our Section, Captain Max von Stephanitz, retired, died suddenly. In token of the value of his extraordinary service to our Section and our breed we are interrupting our work for a minute of silent commemoration. We raise our hands in the German salutation and salute our dead captain.” After the moment of silence had passed, the undersigned ordered the dogs present to “speak”. Loud and clear their voices sounded over the show grounds in a last greeting to the creator of the breed.

On Monday, the 27th of April, Captain von Stephanitz was escorted to his last rest. The funeral ceremony took place at the crematory at Berlin-Wilmersdorf. At the head of the coffin lay a helmet and sword, while the foot was adorned by a bronze Shepherd dog. The coffin was framed by many wreaths. After the undersigned had made the funeral speech the coffin was lowered to the strains of the old soldier song “Ich hatt einin Kameraden” (I had a Comrade) Germany had lost one of her greatest dog authorities!

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Stop Your Pet From DiggingDigging is a natural behavior in all dogs, perhaps he is isn’t getting exercise or he just want to hide his bone for future use. This is natural, but when it comes to digging up sprinkler systems or digging up your bed or sofa, digging under the fence or digging up your plants, this must be corrected. In house digging is a common trait with young dogs, we must know how to fix them in the first year of the dog’s life.On leash training in the house with a long lead is one way. I use the long lead on a puppy or young dog so the dog can be corrected. You must set the dog up for a mistake and watch. You will have 3 seconds to correct it when the dog or puppy makes the mistake. That is why a long line, even if it is a very light line, is what you need to make these corrections. House and yard manners are a must.

Outside DiggingIf your dog likes a spot and will not stop digging, I would suggest pouring black or cayenne pep-per into the hole, and even add jalapeno peppers. Once your dog sticks his or her nose in it, she or he won’t go there again. Then you can fill the hole with rocks and dirt and place chicken wire across the area.If you have a notorious digger, follow the dog around and catch them in the act, use a can filled with small rocks or pennies and throw them at him/her, not to hit them but to distract them, them give them the right toy to have.

Escape ArtistFor an escape artist, bury chicken wire at least 2 feet beneath your entire fence, this will stop the digging out from under the fence. With a gated area you will have to put a cement footing across this part.

A Bored Dog Can DigGive your dog something else to do when they are in the yard, stuff toys with fragrant treats and hide them around your yard. Fill a Kong toy with peanut butter or canned cheese and hide them too, make sure your dog has plenty to do while your are away at work. Some dogs just start digging and barking because they are bored.

Show The Dog Where They Can DigYou can also build a sandbox and fill with beach sand and bury a toy, show your dog she/he can dig there and let him dig out his toy. Praise them when they find the toy, give your dog a place that is okay to dig in.

Hot Summer Temperatures and DiggingIf you live where it is hot, a dog will naturally dig down to cool ground to cool off. If this is the case, you will have to bring the dog in and place the crate in a cool spot with a fan or air con-ditioner around the dog. Do not leave any dog out in very hot weather, they can die of a heat stroke just like a person.Do not leave a dog in a crate in a very hot space or in a car during the summer, it is important to take extra care of our pets in hot weather. (Have a cool location and have water available at all times.)

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Coprophagy (Stool Eating)By Holly Nash, DVM, MSVeterinary Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

Question. What are the causes and cures of stool eating?Answer. Coprophagy (pronounced kä - präf’ - je) comes from the Greek copro which means feces and phagy which means eat, and that is what it is – eating feces. A habit of dogs we all find disgusting, but as we say, dogs will be dogs. Some dogs especially like feces from herbivores like rabbits, deer, and horses. Others love to raid the cat’s litter box, still others only eat dog feces if it is frozen.

Why do dogs eat feces?A lot of theories have been suggested as to why dogs eat feces, are they missing something in their diet? Generally not, dogs who eat their feces usually do not have a dietary deficiency. Some medical problems, however, can contribute to coprophagy including severe disorders of the pan-creas (pancreatic insufficiency) or intestine, severe malnutrition from massive parasitic infesta-tions, or starvation, these cases are rare.Some dogs, especially those in kennel situations, may eat feces because they are anxious or stressed, one researcher suggests that dogs who have been punished by their owners for def-ecating inappropriately start to think any defecation is wrong, so they try to eliminate the evidence.Another theory is that coprophagy is a trait passed down through the ages, dogs’ cousins, the wolves and coyotes, may often eat feces if food is in short supply. Feces from herbivores (animals that eat plants for food) contain many of the B vitamins, some researchers suggest that wolves (and some dogs) may eat feces to replenish their vitamin supply.In some instances, coprophagy may be a behavior learned from watching other animals. It may also become a habit in the course of play and puppies having to try out the taste of everything.There is a stage of life in which coprophagy is common and expected, can you think of what it is? Bitches and queens normally eat the feces of their offspring, this is presumed to occur in an attempt to hide the presence of the litter from predators.Finally, some dogs may eat feces just because it tastes good (to them).

How do we prevent coprophagia from occurring?The best way to prevent the problem is to keep yards and kennels free of feces, some owners find it successful to use something to make the feces taste horrible. Products such as For-bid (for cats or dogs) and Drs. Foster and Smith Dis-Taste (for dogs) are added to the food of the animal whose feces are being eaten (it could be the food of the dog with coprophagy if he eats his own stool; or the food of the cat, if the dog with coprophagy eats the cat’s feces). The prod-uct is digested by the animal, and results in giving the feces a very bad taste. Some people try putting Tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper (chili powder) on the feces (not the food!). Unfortu-nately, some dogs have acquired quite a taste for Tabasco, these methods work best if the behav-ior has just started, once coprophagy has become a habit, it is very difficult to break.

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Dogs should be on a leash when walking, so you have control over the dog in case a luscious pile of feces is found along the way. Sometimes, the only way to prevent coprophagy is to fit the dog with a wire muzzle. The dog will be able to sniff, pant, and do most things dogs do, but the dog will not be able to eat with the muzzle on, DO NOT LEAVE A MUZZLED DOG UNAT-TENDED.Adding toys and other diversions to the environment may be helpful, we need to find something that is more fun for the dog than eating feces. A dog may find a Kong toy laced with peanut but-ter a better alternative, also give the dog lots of exercise to help it ultimately relax.In situations in which the behavior may be linked to stress, the cause of stress should be elimi-nated or at least reduced. In some instances of extreme anxiety, or if the behavior becomes obsessive-compulsive, medication may be necessary to try to break the cycle.One researcher recommends checking the dog’s diet to make sure he is getting enough B vita-mins and is not getting an excess of carbohydrates. Some dogs will improve if they are fed more often, so you may want to increase the number of meals (but keep the total daily intake about the same). There have been anecdotal reports that adding Prozyme to the diet may aid in elimi-nating this problem.For dogs attracted to litter boxes, you may need to be quite creative, using covered litter boxes and placing the opening towards a wall may help. Some people put the litter box up high, others put the litter box in a closet and secure the closet door so that the opening is big enough for the cat but will not allow the dog to enter. Keep in mind that if we make the litter box too dif-ficult to reach, the cat may not go to it either.Above all, do not punish the dog for eating feces, this may reinforce the behavior. General work on obedience is sometimes helpful, if the dog knows what is expected of him and looks to you for cues, he may be less anxious and less likely to start or continue the behavior.

What are the health risks of coprophagy?Many parasites can be transmitted through eating stool, generally, herbivores have parasites specific to them; these parasites will not cause disease in carnivores. But dogs eating the feces of other dogs or cats can infect themselves repeatedly with parasites such as giardia, coccidia, and if the feces are around for 2-3 weeks or more, roundworms and whipworms. Such dogs should have regular fecal examinations and dewormings with the appropriate medications depending on the parasites found.

SummaryWe are not sure why dogs eat their own feces or the feces of other animals, we do know that if a dog starts this behavior, the sooner we implement prevention measures, the better the chance of success.

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Pica (Eating Dirt, Rocks, Etc.)There is a medical condition called “Pica” which caused a dog to eat non-food materials. There are various causes for this condition; some believe the dog is actually suffering from some nu-tritional deficiency, others think this could have a behavioral cause and is done due to stress or boredom.It would be a good idea to have your dog evaluated by the vet, to find the cause of this symp-tom and to be treated if necessary.

Section: OverviewPica is the term used to describe the craving and ingestion of nonfood items. One form of pica is coprophagia, which is the ingestion of feces.

Causes • Behavioral disorders • Primary gastrointestinal maldigestive and malabsorptive disorders (exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, severe inflammatory bowel disease, intestinal lymphosarcoma) • Endocrine disorders(hyperadrenocorticism, diabetes mellitus) cause polyphagia (increased appetite) • Iron deficiency anemia

What to Watch For • Ingestion of nonfood items such as rocks, feces and grass. • Vomiting • Diarrhea • Abdominal pain • Collapse • Chronic bad breath

Diagnostic TestsA complete blood count (CBC), biochemical profile and urinalysis are performed to assess gen-eral organ function and to rule out underlying diseases such as a low red blood cell count seen with iron deficiency anemia,.Low total proteins seen with malabsorptive disorders, elevated blood sugar seen with diabetes mellitus.Trypsinogen-like immunoreactivity (TLI) should always be performed to rule out exocrine pan-creatic insufficiency (especially in the German shepherd dog).Abdominal radiographs (X-rays) may be helpful in ruling out gastrointestinal foreign bodies and blockages secondary to pica.Endoscopic examination may facilitate visualizing what has been ingested, removing it if its pres-ence is causing associated clinical signs, or diagnosing an underlying diseases that causes pica (such as inflammatory bowel disease, intestinal lymphosarcoma).

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TreatmentAvoidance of the offending material is the most effective therapy.Treat the specific disease if an underlying cause can be identified (such as pancreatic enzyme supplementation for exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, or corticosteroids and dietary changes for inflammatory bowel disease).Administer prescribed psychoactive drugs if your veterinarian if it is feels that pica is related to a behavioral disorder.

Home CareComplete avoidance is the most effective prevention and should be instituted if at allpossible.Keep your dog indoors and leash-walk to prevent eating rocks and feces.Store plastic away so your dog has no access to them.Apply a bitter taste to objects to discourage their consumption.

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HOW TO ENJOY THE DOG PARKIT TAKES ALL OF US

Like any place were dogs and people play there will be some who aren’t going to play by the rules. Some people think that they rule the dog park, won’t discipline their dogs, pick up the poop, or act like there are others present.Take steps to make it enjoyable Put the rules in writingIf there is a sign stating all the rules there will not be an excuse for breaking them.

PUPPY VISITSIt is important to educate your puppy early as to the ways of the world. If a puppy has a chance to get use to other dogs at a young age they will be socialized and won’t feel threatened by the other dogs.

JUST IN CASEIn case a dog gets aggressive you should carry an extra choke chain. Some people don’t leave their dogs collars on at the park.If you have a dog that keeps being aggressive you should let them know that kind of behavior will not be tolerated.]

NO TREATSBRING WATERBring your own water and water bowl as you don’t know what kind of germs other dogs may be carrying.

BE A RESPONSIBLE GUESTSomeone may be new to the park so let them know the rules regarding picking up their dogs poop and aggressive behavior.

SAFTEY IN NUMBERSIf you are a regular at the park try to get to know some of the other owners so if there is a problem you will have backup.

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If you have any questions contact:Von Falconer k-9 at (831) 427-3811

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24hrBasic

Agitator/DecoyCourse

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Hereditary Traits

Courage Absence of fear towards objects or in new situations

Confidence Acceptance of safety feeling safe in all situations

Hardness Resiliency toward unpleasant experiences, ability to over come unpleasant situations.

Softness Inability to overcome unpleasant situations.

Sharpness Tendency to react aggressively to stimuli.

Hereditary traits can never be completely changed by training or behavior modification.

Instinctual Drives Prey Drive to hunt and pursue prey, bite and catch prey. Includes tracking, air scenting and retrieving.

Defense Drive to flee from real or imagined danger or drive to attack real or imagined-danger. The drive to survive.

Fight Drive to measure physical prowess over rivals.

Play Drive for physical contact with pack members. These are the major drives we look for when choosing service dogs. These drives can be modified to fit human needs by training and behavior modification, for service work. ( i.e. law enforcement, search rescue etc.) If any of these drives are weak or non-existent in a dog it should not be used for service work.

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Training Terms

Trainability Dogs desire to follow the wishes of the pack leader. (handler)

Protection Dogs desire to defend the pack. (family or handler)

Pack Drive Dogs desire for emotional contact with the pack.

Rank Dogs attempt to achieve higher rank in the pack (growling or biting handler when under stress)

Homing Dogs desire to return to pack. (handler recall)

Territorial aggression Dogs drive, to warn intruders by barking, growling or biting to stay out of territory. (vehicle or yard)

Sound Nerve Referred to when the dog has a good balance of Hereditary Traits and Instinctual Drives.

Only 30% percent of a dogs temperament and drive is environmentally affected by humans. ( i.e. training ) The other 70% percent is affected by the instinct the dog is born with.

When we train dogs for service work we use their natural instincts, by modifying them to fit our needs. For example to chase and hunt humans instead of animals.

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Muzzle fighting techniques with dogs that are comfortable in the muzzle.

First and foremost you must remember that we are taking the dog’s primary weapon away from him, his/her teeth. It is your job to make him feel he is winning the fight at all times even though he can’t use his/her teeth.

Present your back to the dog at every opportunity, so the dog will start learning to hit center mass and the back area in general. Moving away from the dog, tap your chest to get the dog to target high, when the dog is in the air, turn and present your back. Be sure you keep moving away from the dog to prevent injury to the dog when it makes the hit. After the first hit you can face the dog to fight it, lean back and move away from the dog at the same time pushing and fighting with the dog. Keep moving away from the dog. Remember dogs determine who wins a fight by who gives up ground.

When the handler gets control of his/her dog. The agitator must runaway fast, and always run out of sight, so the dog feels it has won the fight Never lean over the top of the dog, this is bad body language and the dog may feel over powered. This also prevents the agitator from being injured by a hit in the face from the dog.

When fighting the dog, do not grab the dogs head or muzzle this is to prevent you from accidentally sticking your fingers inside the muzzle and getting injured. Hold your arms in close to your body, and do not fling your hands and arms around during the fight. This helps prevent the dog from becoming arm fixated.

Remember the agitators job is to make the dog feel he/she is winning the fight, and to keep the dog from being injured during tie muzzle fight, by jamming its neck or receiving some other type of injury.

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Basic Agitator/Decoy information when working on young or new patrol dogs

and specific problems in older dogs

Agitator/Decoy should talk to handler prior to training of dog. A. What goal are we trying to achieve? B. What are we going to do to achieve goal? C. What has dog been showing in previous training sessions? D. What do we want to do next?

Agitator/Decoy should know A. What drive is the dog working in? B. Where does handler want to go with dog? C. How to shift out of point A D. What areas of training is the dog lacking in?

Three zones you should be aware of when agitating A. Suspicion 1. No real affect on dog. 2. Dog realizes you are there and pays attention. B. Reaction 1. Dog comes forward 2. Dog begins to react to your presence C. Avoidance 1. Too close to dog 2. Dog will start to shut down 3. Dog may flee 4. NEVER PUT A DOG INTO AVOIDANCE

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Avoidance vs. Reaction A. As you progress in work the dog’s avoidance will decrease and eventually disappear. B. At the same time the reaction zone will enlarge until as soon as the dog is suspicious the dog will react. C. Your goal is to increase reaction zone and decrease avoidance zone. D. Isolate problem areas Make the problem the center of the training session with that particular dog a. Start session with easy task, something the dog knows well, to loosen the dog up. b. Stress problem area in middle of training session c. Always end session with something the dog does well d. Your goal - dog is not stressed going into or coming out of isolated problem E. Duration of training and training tips All training sessions should be short, and should end when dog is up and doing his best. a. Implant one idea at a time b. Short simple sessions working on one facet of a finished product c. Break training down into sections to solve problems areas, later putting them all together to complete the training.

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INTENSITY / BITE TIMING

INTENSITY

CHART

TIME0

1 2

3

When do you give the dog the bite?

When the dog has peaked in his intensity

1- Dog’s intensity peaks2- Dog’s intensity plateau’s3- Dog’s intensity drops off

With time and training dog’s intensity will come quicker and plateau higher

Should you miss the peak, you can load the dog back up to his peak for the bite

It is the decoy’s job to know when the dog has peaked, and to give him his bit right away

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ZONES

There are threes zones you should be aware of when agitating a dog

Suspicion - no real affect on dog - he realizes you are there & pays attention

Reaction - dog comes forward - begins to your react to your presence

Avoidance - to close - dog will start to shut down - dog may flee * NEVER PUT A DOG INTO AVOIDANCE

X = DOG

X -3 -2 -1

- As you progress in work the dog’s avoidance zone will grad-ually decrease & eventually be gone thus no more

- The reaction zone will enlarge until as soon as the dog is suspi-cious he will react & go for it

GOALIncrease Reaction ZoneDecrease Reaction Zone

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COMMUNICATING DURING TRAINING

BEFORE I WORK WITH A NEW DOG, I TRY AND TAKE THE. TIME TO FIND OUT A LITTLE BIT ABOUT THE DOG AND HANDLER. THIS WAY I KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT, AND WHAT GOAL TO HELP THEM ACHIEVE.

* TRAINER AND HANDLER SHOULD DISCUSS:

1- WHAT ARE WE DOING WITH THIS DOG?

2- WHAT HAS THE DOG BEEN SHOWING US?

3- WHAT DO WE WANT TO DO NEXT?

* TRAINER SHOULD KNOW:

1- WHAT DRIVE DOG IS IN

2- WHERE YOU WANT TO GO WITH YOUR DOG

3- HOW TO GET THE DOG FROM A TO B

* HANDLER SHOULD WARN TRAINER ABOUT DOGS LACKING AREAS:

- PREVENTS INJURIES FROM UNEXPECTED MOVE FROM DOG

- PREPARES TRAINER FOR YOUR DOG

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TRAINING TIPS

- AVOID EGO HANDLER AGITATORS/TRACK LAYERS “LET’S SEE WHAT HIS DOG IS REALLY MADE OF”

- ENSURE TRAINING IS FUN MAKE ALL TIME QUALITY TIME

- BE CONSISTANT IS EVERYTHING YOU DO, YOUR DOG READS YOU AND INCONSISTENCY CONFUSES HIM. IE: COMMANDS, VOICE TONES, PRAISE, CORRECTIONS.

“ISOLATE” PROBLEM AREAS, MAKE THE PROBLEM THE CENTRE OF YOUR TRAINING SESSION.

1- START WITH EASY TASK...SOMETHING THE DOG KNOWS WELL TO LOOSEN HIM UP, AND MAKE YOU BOTH HAPPY 2- PROBLEM STRESS AREA IN MIDDLE OF SESSION 3- ALWAYS END WITH SOMETHING THE DOG LOVES TO DO

OUTCOME:DOG IS NOT STRESSED GOING INTO ISOLATED PROBLEM OR COMING OUT. DOG REMEMBERS EASY TASKS AND HAS ONLY ONE (CENTRE) NEW THING TO REMEMBER

- DURATION OF SESSIONS - 1 HOUR? - 15 MINUTES?

TAKE INTO ACCOUNT: 1- DOG’S MOOD2- YOUR MOOD3- STRESS OF TRAINING EXERCISE4- HOW THE DOG IS DOING TODAY

READ YOUR DOG’S MOOD AT BEGINNING OF SESSION. SOME DAYS ARE JUST NOT DAYS TO DO OBEDIENCE. DO SOMETHING ELSE OR PUT THE DOG AWAY.

* YOU WILL NOT BENEFIT OR TEACH THE DOG ANYTHING BY MAKING HIM WORK UNDER NEGATIVITY

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TRAINING TIPS

ALL TRAINING SESSIONS SHOULD BE KEPT SHORT, AND SHOULD END WHILE DOG IS STILL “UP”

IMPLANT ONE IDEA AT A TIME, AND BREAK THE EXERCISES DOWN TO COMPONENTS

MODULAR TRAINING

SHORT SIMPLE SESSIONS WORKING ON ONE FACET OF A FINISHED PRODUCT.

BREAK TRAINING INTO MODULES TO SOLVE PROBLEM AREAS, THEN PUTTING IT TOGETHER LATER TO COMPLETE IE: ARTICLES ON TRACK BANK INDICATION OF SUSPECT

CONFLICT TRAINING

CONSTANTLY CHANGE TRAINING SO DOG DOES NOT BECOME “PATTERN TRAINED” INTO AN INCORRECT RESPONSE

IE: THE DECOY ALWAYS AT THE END CF THE TRACK THE “STAND STILL” 2 SECOND DELAY, THEN “OUT”

AT THE END OF EACH TRAINING SESSION EVALUATE YOUR TRAINING, ISOLATE YOUR PROBLEM AREAS, AND ASK YOUR-SELF...

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BASIC TRAINING

“CHOKE OFF”

By using the “choke off” the dog never wins the sleeve, in this training method the dog always wins the fight with the man. The handler does the “choke off” (the handler is the alpha male in the pack), so the dog is being choked off by the handler (pack leader) and the man just simply escapes, from the dogs point of view the man “gave ground”. The sleeve does not even enter into the matter. This helps teach the dog that his fight is with the man, not the sleeve. The “choke off” also helps in training so you do not have to give the “out” command too often. By doing a “choke off” the pack leader/handler is controlling the dog, not the agita-tor. This method always leaves the dog “wanting more,” which builds drive.

WHY WE USE THE “FAKE CHOKE OFF”:

The “fake choke off” is used to make the dog think he is going to loose his bite. This makes the dog bite and hit harder, or sometimes the dog will adjust his bite and take a deeper full mouth bite. The dog may become handler sensitive if too many “choke offs” are done. Using the “fake choke of:” conflicts the training so the .dog never really knows when the real “choke off” is going to come. The han-dler sensitive dog will spit the bite to avoid the “choke off” at the slightest touch by the handler around the collar.

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COMMANDS AND VOICE TONES

THREE COMPONENTS OF A COMMAND:

The word itself (command).The tone of voice. (MOST IMPORTANT PART OF COMMAND). Method of enforcement.

TONES OF VOICE:

TONE–TO–USE:

COMMAND: Monotone, barkCORRECTION: Low, growlingPRAISE: High, happyPERMISSIVE: High to lowAGITATION: Whispering, suspicious, excited

METHOD OF ENFORCEMENT:

1. Build for success2. Never give a command you can not back up with enforcement within second. This means both, praise, and corrective enforcement,3. Maintain a praise to correction ratio of 5 to 1. Fives times the praise for every correction.

WHY THE “CHOKE OFF” IS USED:

The “choke off” is used so the dog has to keep fighting for his bite or toy (detector dogs). It makes the dog want to bite the toy more next time. It also builds fight drive, making him fight harder to keep it (bite), building bite strength. It also builds prey drive (detector dog). In the past we would let the dog have the sleeve for his reward after a bite. This has taught the dog that he won the sleeve not the man.

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TRAINING EVALUATION QUESTIONS

TO ISOLATE PROBLEM AREAS ASK YOURSELF...

- WHAT WAS THE PURPOSE/GOAL OF THIS EXERCISE?

- DID WE ACHIEVE WHAT WE SET OUT TO DO?

- WHY/WHY NOT?

- WHAT PARTS OF THE EXERCISE DID MY DOG HAVE DIFFICULTY WITH

- WHAT KIND OF EXCERCISES CAN I DO WITH MY DOG TO OVERCOME THIS PROBLEM?

- DID I AS A HANDLER DO ANYTHING THAT MAY HAVE CAUSED THE PROBLEM?

- DID THE TRAINER DO EVERYTHING CORRECTLY? (review the exercise together)

* WRITE DOWN YOUR ANSWERS AND IDEAS RIGHT AFTER EX-ERCISE FOR FUTURE TRAINING IDEAS WE FORGET VERY QUICK-LY HOW THINGS WENT AND DON’T APPLY THEM TO FUTURE TRAINING SESSIONS.

MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL:

- WHAT DID MY DOG DO WELL?

- WHAT DID I DO THAT WAS GOOD?

* DON’T BE EMBARRASSED TO ASK OTHER HANDLERS’ OPIN-IONS REMEMBER AGITATORS WORK LOTS OF DOGS AND HAVE LOTS OF EXPERIENCE AND IDEAS.

THESE QUESTIONS HELP YOU ISOLATE YOUR PROBLEM AREAS, AND CREATE GOALS FOR YOU AND YOUR DOG.

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PLANNING…OBJECTIVES…GOAL SETTING

YOU MUST ESTABLISH GOALS IN ORDER FOR YOUR TRAINING TO BE EFFECTIVE, AND LESS TIME CONSUMING

GOALS MUST BE LONG AND SHORT TERM

SHORT TERM - BEFORE GOING OUT ON FIELD FOR PROTECTION “WHAT IS IT I WANT TO ACCOMPLISH TODAY?”

ATTEMPT TO BE A VISIONARY TRAINER AS OPPOSED TO A REACTIONARY TRAINER...

REACTIONARY - PUTS FIRE OUT...TOO LATE - DEALS WITH PROBLEM WHEN IT HAPPENS

VISIONARY - ANTICIPATES WHAT IS COMING - PREPARES - HAS PLAN FOR ALL POSSIBLE REACTIONS OF DOG

YOU SHOULD HAVE: - VISION - MISSION - PLAN - IMPLEMENTATION

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Preparingfor

SchutzhundTrials

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GENERAL RULES

Trial Titles

Trial titles according to the S. V. rules:

Protection Dog Trial Step I (SchH I) Protection Dog Trial Step II (SchH II) Protection Dog Trial Step III (SchH III) Tracking Dog (FH)

Regulations

Requirements of, dog’s age entering a trial shall be as follows:

Protection Dog Trial A. 14 months Protection Dog Trial Step I 14 months Protection Dog Trial Step II 16 months Protection Dog Trial Step III 20 months Tracking Dog Trial 20 months

A one day SchH I trial with one judge only, 8 to 10 dogs can participate. At all other, trials the maximum entry shall be 8 dogs, by larger entries, the trial ,shall be extended a half to a full day or additional judges shall be required.

Dogs can only obtain one degree at a trial, if a dog obtains a title, he may not en-ter a trial for the next 6 weeks to strive for the next higher degree. After obtain-ing the SchH III title, a dog may be entered in trials at any time.

A dog can repeat in the same class with out a required waiting period, but not at the same trial or at another trial on the same day.

To qualify for SchH degree (A-III) all dogs entered must pass a temperament test, dogs not passing this test shall be disqualified from the trial.

Points and Ratings

In each category a maximum of 100 points can be made making a total of 300 points for all three categories.

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Category A Tracking 100 pointsCategory B Obedience 100 pointsCategory C Protection 100 points Total 300 points

A minimum score of 70 points in categories A and .B and a minimum of 80 points in category C is required to obtain a title or degree.

Ratings shall be as follows:

0 to 109 points - unsatisfactory 110 to 219 points - insufficient 220 to 239 points - satisfactory 240 to 269 points - good 270 to 285 points - very good 286 to 300 points -excellent.

When a tie score occurs the winner shall be determined by the highest score in the protection category (C). If the dogs are still at a tie score then the winner will be the one with the best scoring in the tracking category (A).

Participants Behavior During the Trial

At the beginning of the trial each handler shall when called, present himself in a sportly manner with his dog on leash (sitting at heel) in front of the presiding judge and give his and his dog’s name. The dog’s registration papers and title cards from former trials should be presented, if one enters his dog for the Tracking Trial (FH), he must have proof and present a certificate that his dog holds at least a SchH I degree.

A membership card must be presented if a trial is restricted to members only by the club holding the trials.

Each participant must follow the instructions of the judge and the trial chair man., the handler must manage his dog in a sportly manner.

Misbehavior can result in disqualification from the trial; this decision will be made by the presiding judge and is final. Pinch collars are not allowed during the trial, the handler should only praise his dog after the exercise is over. Excessive praise

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after each exercise is distracting and is faulty, additional help such as hand and foot movements or other gestures are not allowed. Points will be deducted for any of these violations.

Trial Chairman and His Duties

The trial chairman shall inform the judge at the beginning of the trial that permis-sion has been granted by the S. V. to the club to hold a trial on this date. He shall arrange for the tracking field, and track-layers; a suitable sport field for obedience and protection work; make available all necessary equipment for the agitator; and have four to six persons standing by to form a group whenever needed.

The trial chairman is also responsible for having all judge books and title certifi-cates for the trial.

He shall assist the presiding judge in all matters at all times.

PROTECTION DOG TRIAL STEP I (SchH I) CATEGORY A - TRACKING Points 100 Command: “find it” (such)

The track will be laid by the dog’s own handler, it will be approximately 400 to 500 paces long, a minimum or 20 minutes old, with 2 articles for the dog to find. The dog must be handled on a 30 foot tracking leash.

The track must have two angles which may be either to the right or to the left. The judge will determine the course of the track, the starting point will, be marked. After the handler has stood at the starting point a short time, he will then walk the course as indicated by the judge., He will drop the first article without breaking his stride. The second article will be at the end of the track, the track layer will continue a few paces in the same direction before returning from his track.

PROCEDURE

Before laying the track, the handler must show his two articles to the judge, only articles belonging to the handler can be used. They must be of neutral color and not larger than a wallet. Search packages are not accepted, the handler’s dog must be out of sight while the track is being laid. The track layer must not scuff his feet at any point or stop. The articles must be laid exactly on the track.

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The handler goes back to his dog to prepare him for tracking. When he is called he then presents himself and his dog to the judge, stating at this time if his dog will pick up the articles or refuses to pick them up. (A choice is given here, but the dog must perform as indicated, otherwise it will be considered a fault). When directed by the judge, the handler and his dog will go quietly to the starting area and begin. Sufficient time should be allow for the dog to pick up the scent and no force being used at any time during the tracking.

The dog will pick up the scent calmly with his nose close to the ground, as soon as the dog starts to track the handler stands still and lets the 30 foot tracking leash pass through his hands, only then will he follow his dog at this distance. As soon as the dog finds the first article,he should pick it up without command. Thereby the dog can stand, sit, or walk towards his handler, it is a fault for the dog to pick up the article and continue tracking. It is also a fault for the dog to lay down and then pick up the article. The dog trained to refuse to pick up, may stand, sit or lie down by the article. The handler drops his leash, goes to his dog, takes the article and holds it up to show that his dog has found it. Then the dog and the handler proceed as in the beginning to the end of the track. After completing the track the handler must show both his articles to the judge.

Scoring

A faulty start, going off, circling on the angles, constant encouragement, careless picking up or refusal, dropping of articles, causes deductions up to 4 points. Re peat starting, strong driveling, tracking with a high nose, impetuous tracking, uri-nating or defecating, seeking mice or other animals, deduction up to 8 points. For missing an article, 10 points will be deducted.

CATEGORY - OBEDIENCE Points: 100 Command: “heel” (fuss)

Heeling on leash and impartiality - 15 points

Starting from a standing position, the dog sitting at heel, on the command “heel” or “fuss”, the dog shall heel willingly beside his handler. The dog will always be on the left side of the handler, his shoulder at the handler’s knee and not forge ahead or lag behind. As directed by the judge, the exercise will be demonstrated at normal, slow and fast pace. It will include left, right and about turns, only when beginning from a stop or when changing the pace may a handler give the command

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“heel”. When the handler comes to a stop the dog has to sit automatically. The handler is not allowed to change his position in favor of the dog. The handler must hold the leash in his left hand and the leash must be slack. When indicated by the judge, the handler will proceed with his dog through a group of at least 4 persons. The handler must stop at least once within this group. The group of persons will be continually milling about.

At the beginning of the exercise the dog and handler will go at least 40 paces straight ahead without any stops or turns. A dog forging ahead, lagging behind, moving side ways, as well as the handlers help to favor the dog will be considered a fault.

Heeling off leash - 15 points Command: “heel” (fuss)

While the dog and handler are in progress of leaving the group, the judge will give the handler a signal to remove the leash from the dog while heeling. The handle may put the leash in his pocket or hang it around his neck. Then the dog and han-dler return back into the group again and proceed to repeat exactly the same exercises as in “heeling on leash”. While handler and dog are performing this exer-cise, two pistol shots will be fired (not while walking through the group). The dog should not take any notice of the shooting. IF THE DOG SHIES AWAY HE WILL BE DISMISSED FROM THE TRIAL.

If he becomes aggressive but still under control of his handler it should be consid-ered only as a fault. Only the dog that is completely stable to the shots will receive full points.

Note: Correct procedure must be followed in testing the dog with a gun.

The shots must be fired at a distance of 15 paces with, an interval of 10 seconds between shots. If a dog runs off, he will be dismissed immediately from the trial. If the judge is uncertain whether or not the dog is truly gun shy he can repeat the test. The gun test will only be performed during the heeling off leash and the long down under distraction.

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Sitting exercise - 10 points Command: “sit” (sitz)

From a starting position, the handler and his dog will heel off leash straight ahead. After at least 10 paces, he will tell his dog to sit and continue to walk without looking back or slowing down. The handler will go an additional 30 paces, stop, turn and face his dog. After a pause he returns to his dog and takes up his position at the dog’s right side. The dog must remain seated, if he lies down or stands up he will lose 5 points as a result.

Down in connection with recall - 10 pts. Command: “down” and “come” (platz and bier)

From a starting position, the handler and his dog on the command “heel” or “fuss” will walk straight ahead with the dog off leash. After 10 paces on the command “down” or “platz” the dog will lie down immediately. Without any further com-mand, stopping or looking back the handler will proceed another 30 paces, then stop and turn to face his dog. On the direction of the judge, the handler will call his dog. The dog must come quickly and willingly and sit in front of his handler. On the command “heel” the dog must sit on the correct side of the handler. If the dog stands or sits, even if the recall is correct 5 points are deducted.

Retrieve article belonging to handler, on flat ground - 10 points Command: “fetch” (bring)

From a sitting position beside his handler, off leash on the command “fetch” or “bring”, the dog will retrieve a personal article which has been thrown about 8 paces away. The dog’s retrieve should be quick. On his return he sits in front of his handler with the article in his mouth. After a moment the handler takes the article on the command “let go”. Then the dog returns to a sitting position at the handler’s side. If the dog drops the article or plays with it, up to 4 points can be deducted. If the handler moves, 3 points will be deducted. If the dog does not retrieve no points will be given. A dumbbell may be used as a substitute for a per-sonal article.

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Retrieve over high jump (1 meter = 39”) 20 points Command: “over” and “fetch” (hopp - bring)

The handler stands at a reasonable distance from the jump with his dog sitting beside him. The handler may throw either his own article or a dumbbell over the hurdle. On the command “over, fetch, hop, or bring”, the dog will jump the hurdle without touching it, retrieve, jump back over the hurdle and sit directly in front of his handler, holding the article in his mouth until the handler takes it on the com-mand “let go or aus”. On the command “heel or fuss” the dog will sit beside his handler.

Deductions will be as indicated:

-For lightly touching hurdle - 2 points -For stepping on hurdle - 3 points -For hitting hurdle hard, dropping, playing or mouthing article, up to - 4 points -Return jump refused, article retrieved - 10 points -Jump over refused, return jump correct, article retrieved - 10 points -Going and coming jumps correct, article not retrieved - 10 points -All jumps refused but article retrieved - no points -Going over completed, return jump refused, article not retrieved - no points

If any article is accidently thrown too far or carried by the wind,it may, with the judge’s permission, be thrown again with no loss of points.

If the dog drops the article the judge can repeat the exercise to determine if the dog is lazy or confused.

The handler must remain in his original position until the exercise is completed. All dogs have to jump the same hurdle.

Send dog away and down - 10 points Command: “go” and “down” (voran - platz)

On the advice from the judge the handler will walk with his dog off leash in the direction as indicated. After a few paces the handler will give his dog the command “go or voran” by raising his arm at the same time as signal, and come to a stop, while his dog proceeds in the given direction at a fast pace. The dog must go a minimum of 25 paces before the handler gives the command “down or platz”. The

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dog must lie down immediately. The handler may keep his arm raised until the dog is down. On a command from the judge, the handler will walk to his dog’s right side to finish the exercise.

PROCEDURE

Repetitious arm signals are not allowed. The dog must go in a straight direction as indicated. Points will be deducted for large deviation in direction, slow in going down, going down before a command or getting up before the exercise is completed.

Long down under distraction - 10 points Command: “down’ (platz)

At the start of the obedience of the first dog, the handler of the second dog will be advised to put his dog down about 50 paces off. The dog will be off leash and there must be no article of any kind,left with him. In sight of the dog, the handler walks straight away from the dog without looking back and stands about 50 paces away with his back to the dog. The dog must remain down while the other dog performs exercises 1 through 6. After this, the handler will be advised by the judge to pick up his dog. The handler will stand quietly until advised to pick up his dog, for any help the handler may give his dog or if the dog gets up too early (before the handler returns), points will be deducted. Part of the points can only be given if the dog remains down at least from exercise 1 through 3.

CATEGORY C - PROTECTION

Points: 100

Scoring

Search, find, and bark 3/2 - 5 points Attack on the handler - 30 points Pursuit (courage test) - 55 points Aggressiveness including courage and hardness - 10 points 100 points

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Search, find and bark - 5 points Command: “search” (voran)

The agitator is placed in hiding, about 40 paces away, in a location to give the dog a chance to search at least one time to the right or left. While the agitator takes up his hiding place the handler and the dog must be out of sight. When called by the judge, the handler will send his dog to search with the command “search or voran”. Upon finding the agitator the dog will bark, not bite. The handler remains about 25 paces away until advised to go and pick up his dog. Both have to leave the field and remain out of sight.

Attack on the handler - 30 points

Now the agitator takes a new hiding place about 50 paces away from the starting point. When called by the judge, the handler will walk with the dog on leash, in the direction as indicated. After about 25 paces, the handler will release his dog from the leash and without breaking stride continues to walk with his dog at heel. Sud-denly the agitator will attack the handler from the front. Contact between handler and agitator is not allowed. The dog must immediately attack the agitator and bite hard. At this point the dog will be hit with a stick by the agitator, on the less vital parts of the dog’s body. The handler may encourage his dog with words only. On a signal from the judge the agitator must stand still. The dog will be given the com-mand “out” or “let go”, the dog must break.

Pursuit (courage test) - 55 points

When the dog has released his hold in the previous exercise, the handler will hold him by the collar. The agitator will then run in a straight line away, making threat-ening motions. When the agitator has gone about 50 paces, the handler will send his dog after him. The handler remains where he released the dog. The judge will signal the agitator when the dog is about 30 paces away. The agitator then runs toward the dog, making extremely threatening motions, but may not hit the dog at this time. If the dog holds on to the agitator the attack should stop. The dog will be given the command “out or aus”. After the dog releases the agitator, the handler should wait 1/2 minute without influencing his dog in any way. Then when directed by the judge, the handler will approach the agitator and simulate a search. After which he puts-his dog on a leash, then steps on the right side of the agitator and transports him to the judge. If the dog refuses to let go after the command the handler will wait until directed by the judge to take his dog off.

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PROCEDURE

While approaching the hiding place of the , agitator the dog must remain heeling on the left side of the handler. The dog will lose up to 3 points by moving forward and leaving his handler’s side. After the attack the agitator does not have to stand still, but rather turn with the dog to protect himself, without being aggressive. Only the hard biting dog that will let go on single command can and will receive full points. The dog that bites hard, but does not re lease after several commands will lose up to 5 points., Commands other than “out” or “aus” are not allowed. Dogs that don’t break at all will lose 10 points. If the dog avoids the blows, he must renew the attack on his own. If a dog runs back to his handler, or does not remain by the agitator to observe him, such a dog can only receive a part of the points for “courage and hardness”. Only dogs that show a natural courage will receive full points.

Any dog, even though he may have passed the temperament test before the trial, can be dismissed by the judge during the trial if the dog shows signs of defective temperament.

PROTECTION DOG 2 (Sch II)

CATEGORY A - TRACKING Points: 100 Command: “find it” (such)

The track will be laid by a stranger. It will be approx. 600 to 700 paces long, at least 30 minutes old with two articles on a 30 foot tracking leash. The track must have two angles, either to the right or left. The judge will determine the course of the track. The starting point will be marked. ‘After the track layer has stood at the starting point for a short time, he will proceed to walk the course as indicated by the judge. He will drop the first article without breaking his stride. The second article, will be laid at the end of the track. The track layer will continue a few paces in the same direction before returning from the track.

PROCEDURE

Before laying the track, the track layer has to show both articles to the judge. Only articles with a scent of the track layer will be used. They should be of neutral color and not larger than a wallet. So-called “search packages” are not accept-

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able. During the laying of the track the handler and his dog will be out of sight. The odor of the track should not be changed by the track layer by standing still or scraping his feet across the ground. The articles should be laid directly on the track, not beside it.

The handler will now get his dog ready for tracking. When called upon, the handler will present himself and his dog to the judge and let the judge know whether his dog will pick up or point out the article. When directed by the judge, the handler will take his dog slowly and calmly to the start of the track. No force should be used at any time ‘while tracking. The handler should give his dog sufficient time to pick up the scent.

At this time, the dog should be calm and not be excited. As soon as the dog starts tracking, the handler will let the 30 foot leash pass through his hands and follow the dog at the end of the leash. When the dog-reaches the first article he should, without command of the handler, either pick it up or point it out as indicated to the judge before.

After picking up the article, the dog may either stand-stay, sit-stay or he may return to the handler. Any continuing on the track after picking up the article is a fault. The pointing out may be done standing, sitting, or laying. The handler will drop the leash and walk up to his dog immediately. By holding the article over his head, the handler will show to the judge that the dog found the article. Following this, the handler and his dog will continue on the track. When finished with the track, the handler will show both articles to the judge.

Scoring

A faulty start, driveling, circling on the angles, constant encouragement, care less picking up or refusal, dropping of articles, causes deductions of up to 4 points.

Repeat starting, strong driveling, tracking with a high nose, impetuous tracking, urinating or defecating, seeking mice or other animals, deductions up to 8 points.

For a wrongly picked up or pointed out article, 4 points will be deducted.

For missing an article, 10 points will be deducted.

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CATEGORY B - OBEDIENCE Points: 100 1. Heeling on leash and impartiality - 10 points Command. “heel” (Fuss)

From the basic position the dog should heel willingly on a loose leash. The dog should always be with his shoulder beside the left knee of the handler and he should not forge ahead, follow behind or stray off to the side. As directed by the judge, the exercise will be done in normal, fast, and slow motion. It will include right, left, and about turns. Only at the start and by changing the pace is the han-dler allowed to give the dog the command “heel” or “fuss”. When the handler comes to a stop, the dog will sit automatically without an additional command. The dog handler may not change his position and especially not step over to the out of position sitting dog. During heeling the leash should be held in the left hand and al-ways be loose. Under direction of the judge, the handler will heel his dog through a group of at least 4 moving people. The handler has to come to a halt at least twice while heeling through the group. At the start of the exercise, the handler and his dog will proceed for at least 50 paces at a straight line without any turns or halts.

Heeling off leash - 15 points Command: “heel” (Fuss)

Under the direction of the judge, the handler will take the leash off his dog while heeling. The handler will put the leash around his shoulder or in his pocket. Now he will repeat the exercise as described in phase 1. While the handler and his dog are going through the exercise (but not while moving through the group) two shots will be fired. The dog should behave impartial to the gun shots. If the dog is gun shy, he will be excused from any further examination. Should the dog show aggressiveness, but stays under control of the handler, it will only be considered a fault. Full points can only be given to the dog that is impartial to gun shots.

PROCEDURE

Special attention has to be given to the testing of the dog with the gun. The shots will be fired at a distance of 15 paces. Two shots. 10 seconds apart. If a dog should take off after a gun shot, he will be excused from further examinations. If the judge feels that a dog is gun shy, he may choose to further test the dog. The testing for gun shyness will only be done under the exercise “heeling off leash” and a “long down” under distraction.

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Sitting exercise (While moving) - 5 points Command: “Sit” (Sitz)

Out of the basic position, the handler walks his off-leash heeling dog straight ahead. After at least 10 paces, he will give his dog the command “sit”. The dog will sit immediately, without the handler changing his pace. After another 30 paces, the handler will turn around, facing the dog. After pausing for a little while, the: handler will return to ‘his dog. If the dog, instead of sitting, will lay down or stand, he will lose 3 points.

Down (while moving) in connection with recall - 10 points Continue and “down” (Platz) and “come” (Hier)

Again, the dog handler will heel his dog in a straight line. After at least 10 paces he will tell his dog “dawn”. The dog should dawn immediately, without the handler interrupting his pace. After another 30 paces, the handler will call his dog. The dog should come immediately, fast, and sit in front of his handler. When given the com-mand “heel”, the dog should sit on the left side of the handler.

If the dog should sit or stand, but does the rest of the exercise correct, he will lose 5 points.

Retrieving of a 1 kg (lbs) dumbbell on flat ground Command: “fetch” (bring) - 10 points

The handler will stand with his dog at heel and throw the dumbbell approximately 10 paces. After the command “fetch”, the dog should run and pick up the dumb-bell immediately and bring it back to the handler. The dog should sit close in front of the handler with the dumbbell in his mouth. After a little while, the handler will give the dog the command “out” or “aus” and take the dumb bell. When given the command “heel” or “fuss”, the dog should go to the left side of the handler and sit in the basic position.

Scoring

If the dog drops the dumbbell, plays around with it or chews on it, he will lose up to 4 points. If the dog handler changes his position during the exercise, he will lose up to 3 points. If the dog will not retrieve, he cannot receive any points for this exercise.

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Retrieve of a 1.5 lb. dumbbell over a 39 inch high jump Command: “over fetch” (Hopp bring) - 15 points

The handler will stand with his dog in a reasonable distance from the jump. ,32 He will throw the dumbbell over the jump. When given the command “fetch” or “over fetch”, the dog should go over the jump without touching it, pick up the dumb-bell, return over the jump and sit in front of his handler. When giver the command “out”, he should give the dumbbell to his handler.

Scoring

For lightly touching the jump two points, for lightly stepping on the jump up to 3 points, for heading the jump, dropping the article,: playing or chewing, up to 4 points may be deducted.

Jump, and retrieve correct - 15 points First jump correct, return jump refused, retrieve correct - 8 points First jump refused, return jump and retrieve correct - 8 points Both jumps, correct, refuse to retrieve - 8 points Both jumps and retrieve refused - no points First jump correct, return jump and retrieve refused - no points

If the dumbbell should land beside the jump, the handler may, after asking the judge, get the dumbbell and throw it again. He will not lose any points. If the dog drops the article, the judge may repeat the exercise to determine if the dog is lazy or confused. The handler should not move until the end of the exercise.

Retrieve over a 5 ft high jump of an article (or dumbbell) belonging to the handler Command: “over fetch” (Hopp bring) - 15 points

The dog handler will stand a reasonable distance from the jump with his dog. When given the command, the dog should jump over the high jump, pick up the article, return over the high jump, and sit in front of the handler.. He should hold the article until the handler gives the command “out” or “aus”. The dog will then be given the command “heel” or “fuss.”

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Scoring

For dropping the article, playing or chewing up to 4 points can be deducted.

Jump and retrieve correct - 15 points First jump correct, return jump refused, article retrieved - 8 points First jump refused, return jump and retrieve correct - 8 points First and return jump correct, retrieve refused - no points First, return jump and retrieve refused - no points First jump .correct, return jump and retrieve refused - 8 points

If the article or dumbbell should land be side the jump, the handler may, after ask-ing the judge, get the dumbbell and throw it again. He will not lose any points. If the dog drops the article, the judge may repeat the exercise to determine if the dog is lazy or confused. The handler should not move until the end of the exercise.

Go and down Command: “go - down” (Voraus Platz) 10 points

When directed by the judge, the handler will walk with his dog off leash in a point-ed out direction. After a few paces the handler will come to a halt. The dog will proceed at a fast pace for at least another 30 paces in the pointed out direction. When given the command “down” he should go down immediately. The handler may keep his arm up, pointing out the direction to his dog, until the dog is down. When directed by the judge, the handler will go to his dog.

PROCEDURE

Repeated raising of the arm is not allowed. The dog should go in a straight line, but a light drifting is not faulty. Changing directions, not going out far enough, laying down too soon, standing up of the dog causes deduction of points.

Down under distraction Command: “down” (Platt) - 10 points

At the start of the obedience of the first dog, the handler of the second dog will take his dog approximately 50 paces away, down his dog, leave his dog, walk ap-prox. 50 paces away and stand with his back to the dog. The dog should stay down without any influence by the handler, until the first dog went through exercises 1 through 6. After the exercise no. 6, the handler will pick up his dog.

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PROCEDURE

The handler will stand in a pointed out position with his back to the dog until told by the judge to get his dog. For any help the handler may give his dog or if the dog gets up too early, points will be de deducted. Parts of the points can only be given if the dog remains down during exercise 1 through 5.

CATEGORY C - PROTECTION Points: 100 Searching for the agitator - 5 points Command: “Search” (Voran)

The agitator has to be in a place to allow the dog to search to the left and right 5 to 6 times. While the agitator goes into hiding, the dog and ‘handler have to be out of sight. When the handler raises his arm and gives the dog the command, the dog should leave the handler immediately and search to the right and to the left. The handler is allowed to help his dog as often as necessary. Should the dog consider to search occasionally to the rear, it is not considered a fault. The handler should stay in the imaginary center line of the search area.

Finding and Barking - 5 plus 5 points

As soon as the dog reaches the agitator, the dog handler will stand still. The dog should now bark at the agitator.

Scoring

For continuous barking, the dog will get 5 points. If the dog only barks lightly, 2 points will be deducted, if he does not bark at all, 5 points will be deducted. If the non-barking dog stays with the agitator with out biting, he will get 5 out of the ten points. For lightly biting the agitator he will lose 2, for hard biting he will lose 4 points.

Escape and Defense Escape: 10 points Defense: 30 points

When instructed by the judge, the handler will go to the agitator, command him out of his hiding place and tell the dog to watch the agitator. He will then go and

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check the hiding place for anything the agitator might have left there. The judge will instruct the agitator to move away from the dog and try to escape. The dog should prevent this by biting hard. The agitator will stop moving immediately and stand still. The dog should now release his hold. When instructed by the judge, the agitator is going to attack the dog, he will use a stick but at this time he will not hit the dog. The dog should attack immediately. By biting hard, the dog should stop the agitator from fighting. After the dog gets a good hold of either the arm, jacket or coat, he should be hit a few times with the stick. The dog should only be hit on the side. Only after advice by the judge may the dog handler go to the agitator and the dog and search the agitator for weapons. The handler should not take the stick away from the agitator, but the stick should be carried so the dog will not see it until exercise 5. Before the handler searches the agitator, he will tell the dog to “down” and the dog should down immediately.

PROCEDURE

The agitator should wear the coat, the jacket or the arm as protection. As soon as the dog takes good hold, it is absolutely necessary that he hit the dog with a stick or a whip several times. The dog should not move back at any time. After being instructed by the judge, the dog handler should approach the hiding place up to a short distance. He will then tell the agitator to come out of the hiding place.

Transport - 5 points

Now follows the transport of the agitator for about 40 paces. The dog handler tells the agitator to go ahead and calls his dog to heel. The dog handler will follow with his dog about 5 steps behind.

Attack, courage test, combativeness - 40 points Attack and courage test

During the transport, the agitator will attack the handler. This attack should be on leash or holding the dog by the collar. The agitator walks away. After approx. 50 paces the agitator, will make a threatening motion and then run away. The handler will now release his dog and send him after the agitator. When the dog is about half way between the agitator and the handler, the judge will instruct the agitator to turn around. He should, while making threatening motions with the stick or the whip walk toward the dog, but he should not hit him. The dog should bite hard im-mediately. The dog handler should stay about 30 paces away. When commanded by

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the handler, the dog should release his hold. The handler will now stand motion-less for about 1/2 minute without helping the dog. If the dog bit hard, but when commanded to release will not let go, the handler, when directed by the judge, will go immediately to his dog. Now follows the side transport of the agitator back to the judge, who will be about 40 paces away. The handler will leave with his dog on leash.

Combativeness including courage and hardness - 10 points

The judge will have to watch the fighting instinct of the dog during all the exer-cises in order to evaluate the dog correctly. The pushing forward of the dog to-ward the agitator and hard biting are some signs of the dogs fighting instinct. If the dog shies away from being hit, he should immediately turn around and attack again. Should the dog during the courage test return to the handler or being close to the agitator without watching him, (sniffing around, running around, etc.) he can only get part of the points.

Full points for combativeness will only be given to dogs which are extremely cou-rageous.

PROCEDURE FOR THE ENTIRE CATEGORY “PROTECTION”

The agitator does not have to stand completely still, it is necessary to move in order to see the dog. But under no circumstances will he make agitating motions. He should always protect himself and only stand completely motionless if the dog stands waiting in front of him. Only the energetic attacking and hard biting dog, who will release immediately after one command, can get the full points. The dog that bites hard, but will only release after being told several times, will lose 3 points.

No other commands are being allowed. The dog that refuses to let go can lose up to 10 points.

Note:

If the dog passed the temperament test prior to the examination, but shows dur-ing the examination faulty temperament, the judge can excuse him.

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PROTECTION DOG 3 (S h III) CATEGORY A - TRACKING Points: 100 Command: “find it” (such)

The track will be laid by a stranger. It will be approx. 1200 to 1400 paces long, at least 50 minutes old with three articles. The track includes at least 4 angles, the judge will determine the course of the track. Every track should be different; for example, not every track should have the turns and the articles in the same dis-tance. The starting point will be marked. After the track layer has stood at the tracking point for a short time, he will proceed to walk the course as indicated by the judge.

He will drop the first article after about 100 paces, the second article halfway in the second or third angle, without breaking his stride and the third article will be dropped at the end of the trap. After dropping the last article, he will proceed for a few more paces and then walk away from the track.

The dog may track either freely or on a 30 ft. tracking leash. Both ways will be judged identically.

PROCEDURE

Before laying the track, the track layer has to show the articles to the judge. Only articles with the scent of the track layer will be used. They should be of neutral color and not larger than a wallet. So called “search packages” are not accept-able. During the laying of the track, the handler and his dog will be out of sight. The odor of the track should not be changed by the track layer by standing still or scraping his feet across the ground. The article should be laid directly on the track and not beside it. The handler will now get his dog ready for tracking. When called upon, the handler will present himself and his dog to the judge and let the judge know whether his dog will pick up or point out the articles. When directed by the judge, the handler will take his dog slowly and calmly to the start of the track. No force should be used at any time while tracking. The handler should give his dog sufficient time to pick up the scent.

At this time, the dog should be calm and not excited. As soon as the dog starts tracking, the handler will let the 30 ft. leash pass through his hands and follow the dog at the end of the leash. If the dog tracks free, the handler will still stay 30 ft. behind his dog. When the dog reaches the first article, he should without com-mand of the handler, either pick up or point out, as indicated to the judge before.

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After picking up the article, the dog may either stand-stay, sit-stay or he may return to the handler. Any continuing on the track after picking up the article is a fault. The pointing out may be done standing, sitting or laying. The handler will drop the leash and walk up to his dog immediately.

By holding the article over his head, the handler will show the judge that the dog found the article. Following this, the handler ‘and his dog will continue on the track, the handler will show all three articles to the judge.

Scoring

A faulty start, driveling, circling on the angles, constant encouragement, careless picking up or refusal, dropping of the articles, causes deductions of up to 4 points.

Repeat starting, strong driveling, tracking with a ,high nose, impetuous tracking, urinating or defecating, seeking mice or other animals, deductions up to 8 points.

For a wrongly picked up or pointed out article, 4 points will be deducted.

For missing an article, 7 points will be deducted.

CATEGORY B - OBEDIENCE Points: 100 Heeling off leash - 10 points Command: “heel” (Fuss)

The handler will report to the judge with his dog following off leash. The handler will carry the leash so it will be out of sight of the dog. From the basic position, the dog should heel willingly and happily. The dog should always be with his shoul-der beside the left knee of the handler and he should not forge ahead, follow behind or stray off to the side. As directed by the judge, the exercise will be done in normal, fast and slow motion. It will include right, left, and about turns. Only at the start and by changing the pace is the handler allowed to give the dog the command “heel”. When the handler comes to a stop, the dog will sit automatically without an additional command. The dog handler may not change his position and especially not step over to the out-of-position sitting dog. Under direction of the judge, the handler will heel his dog through a group of at least 4 moving people.

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The handler has to come to a halt at least twice while heeling through the group. At the start of the exercise, the handler and his dog will proceed for at least 50 paces at a straight line with out any turns or halts. While the handler and his dog are going through the exercise (but not while moving through the group) two shots will be fired.. The dog should behave impartial to the gun shots. If the dog is gun shy, he will be excused from any further examination. Should the dog show aggressiveness, but stays under control of the handler, it will only be considered a fault. Full points can only be given to the dog that is impartial to gun shots.

PROCEDURE

Special attention has to be given to the testing of the dog with the gun. The shots will be fired at a distance of 15 paces. Two shots 10 seconds apart. If a dog should take off after a gun shot, he will be excused from further examinations. If the judge feels that a dog is gun shy, he may choose to further test the dog. The testing for gun shyness will only be done under the exercise “heeling off leash” and a “long down” under distraction.

Sitting exercise (while moving) - 5 points Command: “Sit” (Sitz)

Out of the basic position, the handler walks his off-leash heeling dog straight ahead. After at least 10 paces, he will give his dog the command “sit”. The dog will sit immediately, without the handler changing his pace. After another 30 paces, the handler will turn around, facing the dog. After pausing for a little while, the handler will return to his dog. If the dog, instead of sitting, will lay down or stand, he will lose 3 points. .

Down (while moving) in connection with recall - 10 points Command: “down” (Platz) and “come” (Hier)

Again, the dog handler will heel his dog in a straight line. After at least 10 paces he will tell the dog “down”. The dog should down immediately, without the handler interrupting his pace. After another 30 paces, the handler will call his dog. The dog should come immediately, fast, and sit in front of the handler. When given the com-mand “heel”, the dog should sit on the left side of the handler.

If the dog should sit or stand, but does the rest of the exercise correct, he will lose 5 points.

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Stand-stay - 15 points Standing exercise (while moving) - 5 points Command: “stand” (Steh)

From the basic position the dog handler will walk with his dog off leash in a straight line. After about 10 steps, when told to “stand”, the dog should stand-stay immediately, without the dog handler turning around or changing his pace. After another 30 paces, the dog handler will turn around and face his dog. When directed by the judge, he will go back to his dog. The exercise is finished after the handler stands beside his dog with the dog sitting.

Standing exercise (while running) - 10 points Command: “stand” (Steh), “come” (Hier)

Out of the basic position the dog handler will run with his dog off leash in a straight line. After at least 10 steps, when told to “stand”, the dog should stand-stay immediately, without the dog handler turning around or changing his pace. After another 30 paces, the dog handler will turn around and face his dog. When directed by the judge he will call his dog. The dog should come fast and sit straight in front of the handler. When told to heel, he should go back to the basic position.

PROCEDURE

If the dog should sit or lay down after given the command “stand” he will lose up to 5 points. Any extraordinary help the handler will give his dog is faulty. The judge can deduct 1/2 point.

Retrieving of a 2 kg (4,5 lbs) dumbbell on flat ground Command: “fetch” (bring) - 10 points

The handler will stand with his dog at heel and throw the dumbbell approximately 10 paces. After the command “fetch”, the dog should run and pick up the dumb bell immediately and bring it back to the handler. The dog should sit close in front of the handler with the dumb bell in his mouth. After a little while, the handler will give the dog the command “out” and take the dumbbell. When given the command “heel”, the dog should go to the left side of the handler and sit in the basic position.

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Scoring

If the dog drops the dumbbell, plays around with it or chews on it, he will lose up to 4 points. If the ‘dog handler changes his position during the exercise, he will lose up to 3 points. If the dog will not retrieve, he cannot receive any points for this exercise.

Retrieve of a 1.5 lbs dumbbell over a 39 inch high jump Command: “over fetch” (Hopp bring) - 15 points

The handler will stand with his dog in a reasonable distance from the jump. He, will throw the dumbbell over the jump. When given the command “fetch” or “over fetch”, the dog should go over the jump without touching it, pick up the dumb bell, return over the jump and sit in front of his handler. When given the command “out”, he should give the dumb bell to his handler.

Scoring

For lightly touching the jump two points, for lightly stepping on the jump up to 3 points, for heading the jump, dropping the article, playing or chewing, up to 4 points may be deducted.

Jump and retrieve correct - 15 points First jump correct, return jump refused, retrieve correct - 8 points First jump refused, return jump and retrieve correct - 8 points Both jumps correct, refuse to retrieve - 8 points Both jumps and retrieve refused - no points First jump correct, return jump and retrieve refused - no points

If the dumbbell should land beside the jump, the handler may, after asking the judge, get the dumbbell and throw it again. He will not lose any points. If the dog drops the article, the judge may repeat the exercise to determine if the dog is lazy or confused. The handler should not move until the end of the exercise.

Retrieve over a 6 ft. high jump of an article (or dumbbell) belonging to the handler Command: “over fetch” (Hopp bring) - 15 points

The dog handler will stand at a reason able distance from the jump with his dog. When given the command, the dog should jump over the high jump, pick up the

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article, return over the high jump, and sit in front of the handler. He should hold the article until the handler gives the command “out”. The dog will then be given the command “heel”.

Scoring

For dropping the article, playing or chewing up to 4 points can be deducted.

Jump and retrieve correct - 15 points First jump correct, return jump refused, article retrieved - 8 points First jump refused, return jump and retrieve correct - 8 points First and return jump correct, retrieve refused - 8 points First, return jump and retrieve refused - no points First jump correct, return jump and retrieve refused - no points

If the article or dumbbell should land be side the jump, the handler may, after ask-ing the judge, get the dumbbell and throw it again. He will not lose any points. If the dog drops the article, the judge may repeat the exercise to determine if the dog is lazy or confused. The handler should not move until the end of the exercise.

Go-ahead and down Command: “go - down” (Voraus - Platz) - 10 points

When directed by the judge, the handler will walk with his dog off leash in a pointed out direction. After a few paces the handler will raise his arm and will give his dog the command “go”. After a few short steps the handler will come to a halt. The dog will proceed at a fast pace for at least another 30 paces in the pointed out direction. When given the command “down” he should go down immediately. The handler may keep his arm up, pointing out the direction to his dog, until the dog is down. When directed by the judge, the handler will go to his dog.

PROCEDURE

Repeated raising of the arm is not allowed. The dog should go in a straight line, but a slight drifting is not faulty. Changing direction, not going out far enough, laying down too soon, standing up of the dog causes deductions of points.

Down under distraction Command: “down” (Platz) - 10 points

At the start of the obedience of the first dog, the handler of the second dog will

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take his dog approx 50 paces away, down his dog and leave his dog. The handler will leave his dog and go at least 50 paces from his dog out of sight.

PROCEDURE

The handler has to stay out of the sight of his dog and be quiet until instructed by the judge to pick up his dog. Making any kind of noises during this time to help his dog is faulty. The dog can only receive parts of the points if he stays down during exercise 1 through 5.

CATEGORY C - PROTECTION Points: 100 Searching for the agitator - 5 points Command: “Search” (Voran)

The agitator has to be in a place to allow the dog to search to the left and right 5 to 6 times. While the agitator goes into hiding, the dog and handler have to be out of sight. When the handler raises his arm and gives the dog the command, the dog should leave the handler immediately and search to the right and to the left. The handler is allowed to help his dog as often as necessary. Should the dog consider to search occasionally to the rear, it is not considered a fault. The handler should stay in the imaginary center line of the search area.

Finding and Barking - 5 plus 5 points

As soon as the dog reaches the agitator, the dog handler will stand still. The dog should now bark at the agitator.

Scoring

For continuous barking, the dog will get 5 points. If the dog only barks lightly, 2 points will be deducted, if he does not bark at all, 5 points will be deducted. If the non-barking dog stays with, the agitator without biting he will get 5 out of the ten points. For lightly biting the agitator, he will lose. 2, for hard biting he will lose 4 points.

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Escape and Defense Escape: 10 points Defense: 30 points

When instructed by the judge the handler will go to the agitator, command him out of his hiding place and tell the dog to watch the agitator. He will then go and check the hiding place for anything the agitator might have left there. The judge will instruct the agitator to move away from the dog and try to escape. The dog should prevent this by biting hard. The agitator will stop moving immediately and stand still. The dog should now release his hold. When instructed by the judge, the agitator is going to attack the dog; he will use a stick but at this time he will not hit the dog. The dog should attack immediately. By biting hard, the dog should stop the agitator from fighting.

After the dog got a good hold of either the arm, jacket or coat, he should be hit a few times with a stick. The dog should only be hit on the side or wither. Only after advice by the judge may the dog handler go to the agitator and the and search the agitator for weapons. The handler should not take the stick away from the agitator, but the stick should be carried so the dog will not see it until exercise 5. Before the handler searches the agitator, he will the dog to “down” and the dog should down immediately.

PROCEDURE

The agitator should wear the coat, the jacket or the arm as protection. As soon as the dog takes good hold, it is absolutely necessary that he hit the dog with a stick or a whip several times. The dog should no move back at any time. After being inaruced by the judge, the dog handler should approach the hiding place, up the a short distance. He will then tell the agitator to come out of the hiding place.

Transport - 5 points

Now follows the transport of the agitate for about 50 paces. The dog handler to the agitator to go ahead and tells his dog to heel. The dog handler will folly with his dog about 5 steps behind.

Attack and test of courage - 30 points

After the transport, the agitator will attack the dog handler. This attack should be stopped by the dog immediately by biting hard. After the attack, any weapon

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should be taken away from the agitator. Now follows a side transport to the judge. The handler will leave with his free heeling dog the area and go into hiding. In a distance of about 100 paces, the judge will direct the agitator into a hiding place. The dog handler will be advised to go to a position from which his dog has to catch up with the escapee. When directed by the judge, the agitator will leave his hiding place and when spoken to will run away. The dog handler will give his dog the command to stop the agitator. The dog should use the shortest way to catch the agitator. When the dog gets to within about 30 paces, the agitator will turn around and try to chase the dog away. Without being influenced by this, the dog should bite hard and hold the agitator.

The handler may approach up to a distance of 40 paces. The agitator will now stat-ic still, after which the dog should re lease his hold. The agitator will once more try to attack the dog at which point he will use the stick to scare the dog. After the dog has gotten a good hold he should be hit twice on insensitive areas of his body. Now the agitator will stand still and the dog will release. The handler will stand still for approx. 1 minute without giving his dog any help whatsoever. When directed by the judge, he will go to his dog and take any weapon away from the agitator. If the dog bites but will not release, the handler will go to his dog imme-diately and take him off. After this follows a side transport to the judge, who will be approx. 40 to 50 paces away. The handler will leave with his free heeling dog the examination area.

Combativeness including courage and hardness

The judge will have to watch the fighting instinct of the dog during all the exer-cises in order to evaluate the dog correctly. The pushing forward of the dog to-ward the agitator and hard biting are some signs of the dogs fighting instinct. If the dog shies away from being hit, he should immediately turn around and attack again. Should the dog during the courage test return to the handler, or being close to the agitator without watching him, (sniffing around, running around, etc.) he can only get part of the points.

Full points for combativeness will only be given to dogs which are extremely courageous.

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PROCEDURE FOR THE ENTIRE CATEGORY “PROTECTION”

The agitator does not have to stand completely still, if it is necessary to move in order to see the dog. But under no circumstances will he make agitating motions. He should always protect himself and only stand completely motionless if the dog stands waiting in front of him. Only the energetic attacking and hard biting dog, who will release immediately after one command, can get the full points. The dog that bites hard, but will only release after being told several times, will lose 5 points. No other command are allowed. Dogs that refuse to let go can lose up to 10 points.

Note:If the dog passed the temperament test prior to the examination, but shows dur-ing examination faulty temperament, the judge can excuse him.

TRACKING DOG EXAMINATION (FH)

Requirements for admission.

Any participating dog must have at least a protection (Schutzhunde) I degree. This eliminates the necessity of the dog repeating the obedience and protection work, therefore the dog will only be scored on his tracking ability.

Achievement in tracking - 100 points Command: “find it” (such)

The track will be at least 1500 steps long and at least 3 hours old, it will have six angles and will have three misleading tracks. Four articles will be dropped during different points of the track. So-called “search packages” will not be allowed. The dog will have to find the articles and pick them up or point them out as indicated by the handler to the judge before the exercise begins. It is up to the dog handler to let the dog track free or on a thirty foot tracking leash. The lint is not allowed to drag behind the dog.

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PROCEDURE

The laying of the track

The track layer has to be a stranger to the dog. The judge will hand the track layer a sketch of the tracking area. The judge will sketch the route of the track-ing sign prominent markers, such as a lone tree, telephone post or large rock, etc. The track layer will show the four articles to the judge before laying the track It is necessary that the track layer lay the four articles with him before laying the track. The articles should be no larger than a wallet and should be of neutral color. At the start of the track the track layer will trample the ground for an area of one square yard, he should then stand for approximately one minute after which he will proceed, at a normal pace, to lay the track. The start of the track should be marked with an indicator. If possible, the start of the track should be at a house or cabin, because this is realistic. The articles have to be dropped on the track at dif-ferent intervals. The first article should be no closer than 250 paces from the start of the track. The fourth and last article will be dropped at the end of the track. Dropping the article at or close to a corner is not allowed. The articles should be dropped right on the track, not beside it. The track layer will mark the sketch with a cross wherever he drops an article. The track should be laid over varied types of ground and over a well used roadway. The track should be laid as it would be laid in a real situation, any kind of a pattern should be avoided. Thirty minutes after the track is laid a second person, strange to the dog, will be instructed by the judge to cross the track at three different places.

The dog on the track

The dog should take good scent at the start of the track, if possible, with out any influence from the handler. Under no circumstances should the direction of the track be indicated to the dog by the handler. If the handler should feel that his dog did not take good scent he will be allowed to start over again if the dog has not gone more than 15 steps, for this he will lose 4 or 5 points. The track should be worked out so that the handler should follow his dog at a walking pace. The judge and the track layer should follow at a distance of approximately 50 paces. If the dog finds an article, he should point it out or pick it up immediately. The pointing out may be done sitting, lying or standing. The handler must go to his dog imme-diately and take the article. The handler will praise his dog and continue on the track immediately. If the dog should find an article not belonging to the track layer,

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he should ignore it. If the dog should follow one of the misleading tracks for more than 25 paces, the tracking should be stopped immediately.

Scoring

The dog can only receive the full 100 points if he worked out the track in a nice steady pace and found all four articles. All corners must be worked in a sure and confident way. The dog should not be influenced by the misleading tracks. Seven points will be lost for every missed article. To both pick up and point out is faulty. Four points will be lost for every mistakenly picked up or pointed out article.

ACHIEVING THE TRACKING DOG TITLE (FH)

The tracing degree (FH) can only be awarded to the dog who receives a minimum of 70 points. The following scoring will be awarded.

0 to 35 points - unsatisfactory 36 to. 69 points - insufficient 70 to 79 points - satisfactory 80 to 89 points - good 90 to 95 points - very good 96 to 100 - excellent

POLICE DOG EXAMINATION (DPO) GENERAL

Contents The DPO consists of;Police dog examination DPO I Police dog examination DPO II

Minimum age. The minimum age for participating dogs isFor DPO I - 14 months For DPO II - 18 months Between the examinations DPO I and DPO II at least six weeks must have passed.

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Requirements for tracking dog examination (FHP) The police dogs that would like to participate in the tracking dog examinations ac-cording to the rules of the VDH have to have at least DPO I completed.

Minimum requirements for passing The dog will receive the title DPO I if he gets a minimum of 70% in cat-egories A, B and C. The dog will receive the title DPO II if he gets a minimum of 707 in cat-egories A, B and C.

Requirements to participate in DPO II In order to participate in DPO II examination the dog will have to have acquired a minimum of 70% in categories A and B and 80% in category C in the DPO I examination.

Scoring

The dog can-receive the following score in the DPO examinations

0 to 239 points - unsatisfactory 240 to 279 points - insufficient 280 to 319 points - satisfactory 320 to 359 points - good 360 to 379 points - very good 380 to 400 points - excellent

Actions of the dog Every time the dog handler comes to a halt the dog should sit automatically unless the exercise asks for a different position.

Given measurements One pace equals 80 centimeters or approximately three feet.

Reasons for disqualification Dogs that are gun shy or show other faults in temperament will be disqualified from the examination. Every participating dog must be tested under gun fire.

Selection and actions of the track layer It is very hard to have the same type of track for each dog. The actions of the dog will depend largely on the way the track layer lays the track so it is very important to use an experienced track layer.

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Laying of the track should be supervised by a very experienced person. It asked of a track layer that he be especially careful to:Lay as similar as possible tracks for each dog. Does not put the different tracks too close together so that the dog tracking on one track will not be bothered by the next track. To lay the tracks in normal steps. Articles should not be laid in holes or on mounds. May only use articles that are well scented. Will talk to no person other than the judge about the track. Should give the judge a sketch of the track.

Selection and protection articles of the agitator The performance of a dog during protection work depends on the actions of the agitator. This fact must be realized and considered. For this reason special care must be taken to: Select a good agitator The agitator: Should be protected well but the protection clothing should not be vis-ible to the dog. Will act the same with each dog regardless of how the dog acts. Before the examination will talk to the judge and perform according to the judge’s directions. When more than one agitator is used, the same agitator must perform the same exercise with each; participating dog. During the courage tests the agitator may hit the dog only on the less vital parts of his body. Will stand quietly after the exercise. Must stand as still as possible during the barking exercises but must keep the dog in sight. Will be impartial and act the same with every dog. Will not shake the dogs unrealistically.

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POLICE DOG EXAMINATION DP I Total points - 400 CATEGORY A - NOSE WORK Points 100

Tracking - 80 pointsThe track must 400 to 600 paces long and at least 30 minutes old. It will have two articles belonging to the track layer. Approximately 20 minutes after the track has been laid a misleading track will be laid across the third angle of the track. The precise laying of the track will be directed by the judge. After the track layer has stood at the starting point for a short while he will lay the track as indicated by the judge. The dog can work the track free or on a 30 foot tracking leash.

The articles (for example; clothespins, cloth, leather, rubber or cotton pieces, ciga-rette boxes or match boxes, etc.) The articles have to be dropped on the track. The first article is dropped half way through the second leg and the second article at the end of the track.

If several dogs participate in the examination, the same type of articles should be used.

Before he starts the tracking the dog handler must indicate to the judge whether his dog will pick up or point out the article.

In order to avoid any kind of a patter the judge will decide where to drop the articles. The dog should concentrate intensely or the track and keep his nose low ‘to the ground. It is left up to the dog handler how he starts and works out the track. Searching for articles - 20 points The handler will place three articles in an area of approximately 50 X 100 ft with the dog out of sight. The dog must 80 find the articles in less than ten minutes. The articles should be the same type of ar-ticles as used in tracking.

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Scoring

100 points divided as follows: Tracking

-Starting and scent tracking - 5 points - Working out the three legs of the track - 15 pts each - 45 points -Working out the two corners - 5 pts each - 10 points -Pointing out or picking up the articles - 10 pts each - 20 points TOTAL - 80 points

Search for articles -Searching - 8 points -Finding the articles 4 pts each - 12 points TOTAL - 20 points

CATEGORY B - OBEDIENCE Points 100

Unless told otherwise the dog should come to a sitting position beside the han-dler every time he comes to a stop without any extra command. This also applies to the protection work.

Heeling on leash - 20 points When given the command “heel” the dog should follow willingly and happily on the left side and close to the left knee of the dog handler.

The leash can be held in either the left or the right hand. Both arms should be moved in a normal fashion. Changing of the leash from one hand to another during the exercise is not allowed. The handler should talk in a normal tone to his dog.

The heeling on leash will be shown in normal, slow and fast paces. During each speed a left, right and an about turn will be shown.

Following this, the handler, with his dog on leash will show the exercises sit, stand and down. For every one of the exercises, the dog handler must walk at least ten paces in a straight line. No turns will be shown while doing these exercises. The sitting exercise will be automatic, the stand and down exercises will be done with either voice or hand signal commands. Now the handler will walk twice through a moving group of from three to five people who will be in a line approximately

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three paces apart. The handler will halt and the dog will come to a sitting position between the handler and at least one of the persons at least one time. This person can move in the position he is standing but he cannot continue walking.

A second command is only allowed when changing speeds, any other influence by the dog handler will cost a deduction of points. The dog will also lose points for forging ahead, staying behind or sniffing around.

Heeling off leash and gun test - 20 points After finishing the above exercise, the dog handler will move out of the ground take his dog off leash and put it away. After taking the leash off, the dog a handler will perform the exercises previously done on leash. After he leaves the group and while he is doing the leash heeling at a normal pace, two shots will be fired at a distance of approximately 15 paces to test the temperament of the dog. While the guns are fired, the handler: must move, with his dog, towards: the person who has fired the gun. If the dog should prove to be gun shy, he will be excused from the examinations. .If the dog reacts hard by barking or becoming aggressive it will not be faulty as long as the dog stay’s under the influence of his handler without extra commands.

Walking, stand, down and return - 15 points

After the exercise “sit” the handler will walk with his dog off leash for at least 10 paces in a straight line and tells the dog to stand while he continues for another 20 paces then turns around and faces his dog. After approximately five seconds, he commands his dog, either verbally or with a hand signal, to lay down.

After doing this, the handler returns to his dog, pauses and tells his dog to heel, then walks approximately ten paces. Until the command “heel” the dog must re-main dawn quietly.

Bringing an article from the ground - 10 points The dog sits off leash beside his handler who will throw an article approximately 10 paces away. After a short pause, the handler commands his dog to retrieve the article. The dog should pick the article up immediately, come straight back to his handler and sit straight and close in front of him.

After a short while, the handler will reach for the article with both of his hands. Only when told to let go shout the dog release the article. When give the com-mand “heel” the dog should go immediately to the basic position. When the han-

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dler takes the article from the dog he should hold it at belt height a close to the body, he must remain in that position until the dog has return to the basic posi-tion. The handler should remain still throughout the entire exercise.

Jump over a 39” high jump with a stand - 15 points The handler will walk with his dog, of: leash and at heel to a position a real( able distance from the jump. When he comes to a halt the dog should sit immediately. When given the command the dog should clear the jump, without touching it, the handler will then tell his dog to stand. The dog will stay it that position until picked up by the handler.

Climbing a 5 foot high jump and retrieving an article - 10 points The handler will bring his dog to a position a reasonable distance from the jump, he will then take an article from his pocket and throw it over the high jump. When given the command “over” the dog should scale the jump, on the command “fetch” he should retrieve the article and return, over the jump, to his handler. The handler will then finish the exercise as described in exercise 4.

Down under distraction - 10 points At the start of the obedience of the first dog, the handler of the second dog, will take his dog to a place indicated by the judge and down him. He will then, without leaving any articles behind, tell his dog to stay and leave him. After approximately 50 paces the handler will come to a halt and remain there with his back to his dog. With out any influence by the handler, the dog should stay quietly until the work-ing dog has finished exercise 5. When instructed by the judge, the handler will pick up his dog. The exercise is finished when the handler has returned to his dog and told him: to sit. The handler will then put his dog on leash and leave the examination area.

Scoring

If the dog sits, stands, moves around, rolling around or barks he will lose points. If he moves away from his position for more than 5 steps he cannot receive any points for this exercise.

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CATEGORY C - PROTECTION Points 20

The search area should be approximately 125 by 250 paces. It should contain plenty of hiding places.

The agitator should wear protective clothing which looks as normal as possible to the dog. He should also carry a stick. A regular or heavy protection suit, jacket arm should not be used because it gives an unnatural appearance.

During the exercises 3a and 4b special attention should be given and the moment that the dog takes good hold the fight stops and any unnatural shaking and throw-ing around of the dog is not allowed. Long biting and continuous hitting of the dog is unnatural and unrealistic. During the exercise 3a, when the dog is hit twice, the fight should stop. If the judge has any doubts about the dog he can have the exer-cise repeated.

Searching holding and barking with a hiding person search and release - 75 points Search - 25 points The handler and his dog are out of sight. At a distance of about 220 paces the agitator will be directed by a judge into hiding. The distance should be adequate enough to allow the dog to search to the left and right 5 or 6 times. When di-rected by the judge, the handler will start the search with his dog. When given the command, the dog should leave the handler immediately and search to the left and to the right. The side searches should be at least 40 to 50 paces deep and 20 to 30 paces wide. Occasional searches to the rear are not faulty. The handler should stay in the imaginary center line of the search area. The handler should talk to his dog as quietly as possible but may command his dog as often as he wishes. In police work it may be preferred, while doing this exercise, rather than verbally calling the dog, to use a dog whistle. The handler may also use hand signals.

Finding and barking with call off - 35 points As soon as the dog finds the hiding agitator, he should indicate it by barking during which time he must stay out of the agitator’s reach. The handler should take the shortest route possible to where his dog has found the agitator. As soon as the handler sights the agitator he should walk to within 10 to 15 paces and come to a halt, He should then tell the agitator to stand he will then call his dog to him then down him. The dog should watch the agitator alertly, some barking is not faulty. This also applies to exercise

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Searching the agitator and release - 15 points It is only now that the agitator will be told to step out of the hiding place He will then be searched, during which he will remain quiet. After the search the handler will check the hiding place for articles or weapons. The handler will then return to his dog and release the agitator since there was no reason for detention.

Actions of the dog while lying in wait, catching a fugitive, holding, bark-ing, call off, search and transport. 65 points

Actions of the dog while lying in wait - 15 points The handler, with his dog off leash lies in wait, the handler may hold his dog by the collar. A suspicious looking person comes into sight approximately 80 to 100 steps away. The handler will direct his dog’s attention toward the suspicious person and will call “halt, police, or I’ll send my dog.” The person will ignore the call and run away. After the suspicious person runs a short distance, the judge will direct the handler to send his dog.

Catching, holding and barking with a call off - 40 points After the dog has closed the distance to approximately 40 paces, the agitator will stop running and turn around, facing the dog. The agitator is not allowed to step out of the dog’s way. The dog should now stay about 6 steps away and bark until the handler gets to a position about 10 to 15 steps away at which time the han-dler will call the dog back.

Search and transport - 10 points The handler will now tell his dog to down and stay. The dog should watch the agitator attentively while the handler searches him. After the search the handler will tell the agitator that he is under arrest and will step to the agitator’s right side, call his dog to heel and transport the agitator approximately 20 steps to the judge. The judge will give the agitator a stick.

Attack on the handler, search and transport - 60 points Attack out of a hiding place - 45 points Search and transport - 15 points

While walking with his dog, heeling off leash, in the direction indicated by the judge the handler will be attacked by a person stepping out of a hiding place. The dog must immediately stop the attack without any influence from the handler. While the dog holds the agitator, the agitator will hit the dog twice on the less

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vital parts of the body to test the hardness of the dog. The fight will stop when indicated by the judge. The dog should release immediately and not bite again,-barking is not faulty. Now the handler will the agitator to stand still and raise his arms above his head, he will then call his dog and tell him to down. After search-ing and taking any weapons away from the agitator, the handler will step back and allow him to take his hands dawn. The handler will then call his dog and transport the agitator back to the judge walking with dog approximately 10 steps behind the agitator.

As soon as the agitator gets to within 3 steps of the judge the handler will com-mand him to halt, walk up and report the end of the exercise.

Depending on the training methods of the different departments, when reporting back to the judge, the dog may sit or down beside his handler. After finishing the exercise, the handler will leave the examination area with his dog on leash.

POLICE DOG EXAMINATION II (DP II) Total points - 400 CATEGORY A - TRACKING Points 100

The track as indicated by the judge will be 600 to 800 paces long, at least 60 min-utes old and consist of 3 corners with 4 articles and must be crossed at least twice by a misleading track laid 30 minutes after the original track was laid.

After the track layer has stood at the start of the track for a short while, he will lay the track as indicated. The tracking any be done free or on a 30 foot tracking leash.

The articles (such as clothes pins, cloth, leather, rubber, cigarette or match boxes) should not be dropped within the first 90 steps of the track and never too close to a corner. The last article will mark the end’ of the track. The handler will be ad-vised which article is at the end of the track so he will know when he has reached the end. If several dogs participate in the examination, the same type of articles should be used for each dog.

Before he starts the tracking the handler must indicate to the judge whether his dog will pick up or point out the article. The scoring on the articles is as follows: Articles 1, 2, and 3 each - 7 points Article 4 - 9 points

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In order to avoid any kind of a pattern, the judge will decide where to put the articles. The dog should concentrate intensely on the track and keep his nose low to the ground.

How he starts and works out the track is left up to the dog handler.

OBEDIENCE - Points 100

Unless told otherwise the dog must come to a sitting position every time the handler comes to a stop without an extra command. This also applies to the protection dog.

Heeling on leash - 10 points When given the command heel the dog should follow willingly and happily on the left side and close to the left knee of the handler. The leash can be held in either the left or the right hand, both arms should be moved in a normal manner. Changing of the leash from one hand to the other during the exercise is not al-lowed. The handler should talk in a normal tone to his dog.

The heeling on leash will be shown in normal, slow and fast paces. During each speed, a left, right and about turn will be shown.

A second command is only allowed when changing speeds, any other influence by the dog handler will cost a deduction of points. The dog will also lose points for forging ahead, lagging behind or sniffing around.

Now the handler will walk twice through a moving group of from 3 to 5 persons during which time he must come to a halt at least once with his dog sitting be-tween him and one of the persons in the group. The person may not hove away from the position but may move within that position.

Heeling off leash and gun test - 20 points After finishing the above exercise, the dog handler will move out of the group, take his dog off leash and put the leash away. After the dog is off leash, when re-quested by the judge, 2 shots will be fired about 15 paces away from the dog. The dog should be impartial to gun shots. If the dog proves to be gun shy he will be excused from the examination. If the dog reacts hard by turning his head in the direction of the shots, it will not be considered a fault as long as the dog remains in his handler’s control. After this the exercise heeling off leash, will be shown in a normal, slow and fast pace. During each speed a right, left and about turn should

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be shown. Now the following exercises will have to be shown in a normal and a fast pace. A sit, which will be automatic, a stand and a down which will be done with a verbal or visual command. Be tween the different exercises the handler will make right or left about turns. This is not a walking sit or stand, the handler will stay with his dog.

A second command is only allowed when changing speeds, any other influence by the dog handler will cost a deduction of points. The dog will also lose points for forging ahead, lagging behind or sniffing around.

Walking stand with a down, a sit and a return - 20 points The handler will walk with his dog heeling off leash for 20 paces in a straight line, then tell the dog to stand while he continues to walk for another 20 paces. The handler will turn around and face his dog. When instructed by the judge he will give his dog, either verbally or through a hand signal, the command “down”. Then when instructed by the judge, he will tell his dog to “sit”, after which he will be advised by the judge to pick up his dog.

Bringing an article from the ground 10 points The article may be a shoe which the handler will get from the judge and which he must hand back to the judge after completing the exercise. The dog sits off leash beside his handler who will throw the article approximately 10 paces away. After the short toss the handler will tell his dog to retrieve the article. The dog should pick up the article immediately, come straight back to his handler and sit straight and close in front. After a short pause the handler will reach for the article with both hands. The dog should release the article only after being told to let go. When given the command “heel” the dog should go immediately to the basic posi-tion. When the handler takes the article from the dog he should hold it at belt height and close to the body. He must remain in that position until the dog has returned to heel position. The handler should remain still throughout the entire exercise.

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Jumping and climbing obstacles - 30 points Free jump over a 39” high and 60” wide wire mesh fence, with the standing of the dog on the other side and a pick up by the handler - 8 points Free jump over a 39” high and 60” wide hedge with the bringing of an object such as a wallet, key case, pocket knife, cigarette or match box - 10 points Climbing of a 6’ high and 60” wide wooden jump, with stand on the other side and a return jump - 12 points

The different obstacles should be in this order, the wire mesh fence, the hedge and the wooden jump should be side by side with approximately 3 steps between them.

PROCEDURE

(Exercise a)After the handler comes to a halt in front of the first jump, at a reasonable dis-tance the dog should, when commanded, go over the jump without touching it. When on the other side, the handler will command his dog to stand away then pick up his dog.

(Exercise b) After the handler has come to a halt at a reasonable distance from the hedge he will take the article, which he has carried in his pocket and throw it over the jump. When commanded, the dog should go over the jump, pick up the article, return over the jump and sit in front of his handler. The finish of the exercise is the same as in exercise number 4.

(Exercise c) The handler will come to a halt with his dog heeling free at a reasonable distance in front of the high jump. The dog will

PROCEDURE

(Exercise a)After the handler comes to a halt in front of the first jump, at a reasonable dis-tance the dog should, when commanded, go over the jump without touching it. When on the other side, the handler will command his dog to stand away then pick up his dog.

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(Exercise b)After the handler has come to a halt at a reasonable distance from the hedge he will take the article, which he has carried in his pocket and throw it over the jump. When commanded, the dog should go over the jump, pick up the article, return over the jump and sit in front of his handler. The finish of the exercise is the same as in exercise number 4.

(Exercise c)The handler will come to a halt with his dog heeling free at a reasonable distance in front of the high jump. The dog will scale the wall, when commanded. When on the other side, on command, the dog will stand-stay until given the command to re turn over the jump. The dog will then sit close in front of his handler and when commanded will return to the basic position.

After finishing the exercise, the handler will walk with his dog heeling off leash to the judge and report the exercise completed. He will then put his dog on a leash and leave the examination area.

Long down - 10 points

The handler will put a muzzle on his dog and take his dog to a place indicated by the judge. He will put the dog down, leave him And run out of sight. The dog should remain quiet. Sitting; standing, crawling around or barking is faulty. If the dog moves away for more than 3 steps he will lose all the points of this exercise. After about 10 minutes, when advised by the judge, the handler will pick up his dog. The handler will walk back to his dog and shall stand , beside him.

The exercise is completed when the judge asks the handler to have his dog come to a sit. The handler will put his dog on leash.

If several dogs participate in the examinations this exercise will be done with the dogs lying in a line approximately 6 paces apart.

Catching, holding and barking with a call off. - 35 points After the dog has closed the distance to approximately 40 paces the agitator will stop running and turn around, facing the dog. The agitator is not allowed to step out of the dog’s way. The dog should now stay about 6 steps away and bark until the handler gets to a position of about 10 to 15 steps away at which time the han-dler will call the dog back.

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Search and transport - 10 points The handler will now tell his dog to down and stay. The dog should watch the agi-tator attentively while the handler searches him. After the search the handler will tell the agitator that he is under arrest and he will transport the agitator back to the judge walking approximately 15 steps behind the agitator.

Attack on the handler, search and arrest - 35 points Attack on the handler - 20 pointsDuring the transport another person, seemingly harmless, will appear between the agitator and the handler. The person will get close to the handler and attack him without any warning. The dog should stop this attack immediately by biting hard.

After the dog has a good hold the attacking person should hit the dog twice in the less vital parts of the body to test the hardness of the dog. The dog should not stop fighting. If he tries to avoid the blows, he should immediately resume the at-tack. After the second blow the judge will advise the agitator to stop the fight.

Now the handler will tell the agitator to stand still and command his dog to re-lease and to down.

Search and arrest - 15 points The dog should stay close to the agitator, the handler will search the agitator and by holding his right hand (in reality-handcuffing) arrest him. This the dog should watch alertly. He should under no circumstances walk away from the handler and agitator. Any repeated biting is faulty.

Catching and courage test - 55 points With a transport of both criminals Catching and courage test - 50 pointsThe first arrested during the attack on the handler turns around wondering if he should get involved in the fight but decides to try to escape by first walking and then running away. After the handler is in control of the attacking person, when advised by the judge, he will send his dog after the escapee. The dog should chase the escapee using the shortest route possible. As soon as the dog gets to within 40 feet, the escapee will turn around and try to scare the dog. This will be done by waving the unprotected arm and by throwing small stones. Without being in-fluenced by this the dog should bite the attacking person hard. Meanwhile the handler, transporting the other person on his left side, will approach the fleeing suspect as quickly as possible and call off his dog. He will step to within 10 to 15 steps and call his dog back to him.

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Transport and finish - 5 points Now both of the arrested persons will be transported to the judge. The last ar-rested will walk 10 to 15 steps in front of the handler. The dog will walk between his handler and the other suspect. The dog should watch both suspects attentively. Snubbing, biting, barking and inattentiveness of the dog id faulty. To show a good finish of the complete protection work the handler will command the suspect in front of him to halt when he gets close to the judge. The agitator, with his dog, and the other suspect will then close up and report to the judge the arrest of 2 per-sons. The judge will now release the suspect. The handler puts his dog on leash and leaves the area.

Documents

750 Comstock Lane • Santa Cruz, CA 95060 · Coming to training classes the first and second year of your dog’s life is so important. When a dog is 2 years old, he is like an