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Tucked into the southwestern corner of the Yucatn Peninsula like a forgotten stepdaughter,

Campeche is home to vast stretches of tangled jungle, some of the regions least visited andmost imposing Maya ruins, forgotten pastoral villages, bird-choked coastal lagoons and an

inspiring colonial-era capital city. Its the least touristed of the Yucatns states, and in that

lies its provincial, lost-land charm.

In the northeastern Chenes region and other remote corners, women still don huipiles

(colorfully embroidered tunics), and Yucatec is widely spoken. The backroads of this north-

ern region bring you to forgotten underground wonderworlds, the massive restored Edzn

archaeological site and a handful of smaller, less-traveled Maya ruins.

This is also the wildest corner of the Peninsula, and the Reser va de la Bisfera Calakmul

is Mexicos largest reserve. Here you can spot toucans, monkeys and even the occasional

big jungle cat. And beyond the cacophonous roar of the howlers and hiccuping frogs rise

massive Maya ruined cities such as Calakmul and Becn. Along the coast, the Laguna de

Trminos is great for birding, and beach bums revel in the solitude on forgotten beaches.

The southern coast of Campeche was affected by an oil spill in October 2007, a nd boom-

towns such as Ciudad del Carmen are changing the spirit (and environment) of the region.

Nevertheless, the age-old grace of the campechanos (residents of Campeche) abides. And

the walled city of Campeche, without a doubt the best-preserved colonial capital on the

peninsula, remains the cultural epicenter of the region, offering a great jumping-off point

for your adventure into the offbeat hinterland.

Campeche State CAMPECHE%981 / pop 211,671Campeche is a colonial fairyland, its walledcity center a tight enclave of perfectly re-stored pastel buildings, narrow cobblestonestreets, fortified ramparts and well-preservedmansions. Added to Unescos list of WorldHeritage sites in 1999, the state capital hasbeen so painstakingly restored you wonderif its a real city. Nearly 2000 structures havebeen renovated. But leave the citys wallsand youll find a real Mexican provincialcapital complete with a frenetic market, aquiet malecn(waterfront boulevard) andold fishing docks.

Relatively few tourists visit the city, mean-ing the town retains its authenticity itsnot a tourist trap, at least not yet. And thebig-hearted and proud campechanos arelikely to show you an unobtrusive and re-served hospitality not seen in other regionalcapitals such as Chetumal or Mrida.

Besides the numerous mansions built bywealthy Spanish families during Campechesheyday in the 18th and 19th centuries, twosegments of the citys wall have also survived,as have no fewer than seven of the baluartes(bastions or bulwarks) that were built into it.Two perfectly preserved colonial forts guardthe citys outskirts, one of them housing theMuseo de la Arquitectura Maya, an archaeo-logical museum with world-class pieces.

The citys central location on the Gulf ofMexico makes it the perfect jumping-off pointfor adventures to the Chenes sites, Edzn andneighboring beaches. Come back at night to

enjoy the gauzy light of the illuminated churchand other central landmarks.

HISTORYOnce a Maya trading village called Ah KimPech (Lord Sun Sheep-Tick), Campeche wasfirst briefly approached by the Spaniards in1517. Resistance by the Maya prevented theSpaniards from fully conquering the region fornearly a quarter-century. Colonial Campechewas founded in 1531, but later abandoneddue to Maya hostility. By 1540, however, theconquistadors had gained sufficient control,under the leadership of Francisco de Montejo(the Younger), to found a permanent settle-ment. They named the settlement Villa de SanFrancisco de Campeche.

The settlement soon flourished as the majorport of the Yucatn Peninsula, but this made itsubject to pirate attacks (see boxed text, p207).After a particularly appalling attack in 1663left the city in ruins, the king of Spain orderedconstruction of Campeches famous bastions,putting an end to the periodic carnage.

Today the economy of the city is largelydriven by fishing and, increasingly, tourism,

which to some extent have funded the down-town areas renovation.

ORIENTATIONThough the bastions still stand, the walls havebeen mostly razed and replaced by AvenidaCircuito Baluartes, which rings the city center(Centro Histrico) as the walls once did. In theclassic colonial plan, the center is surroundedby barrios (neighborhoods), each with its ownchurch and square. Particularly charming areSan Romn, Guadalupe and Santa Ana.

The streets in the central grid follow a num-bered sequence: inland-oriented streets have

odd numbers and perpendicular ones even.A multilane boulevard with bicycle and pe-destrian paths extends along Campeches shore-line, from the Fuerte de San Miguel (San MiguelFort) in the southwest to Fuerte de San Jos(San Jos Fort) in the northeast. Graced by a se-ries of monuments, the boulevard is commonlyreferred to as La Costera or themalecn,thoughthe stretch closest to the city center is officiallynamed Avenida Adolfo Ruiz Cortnez.

INFORMATIONInternet AccessAll of the hostels and quite a few hotels pro-

vide online services, and cibers abound inthe Centro Histrico.

LaundrySame-day laundry service is available at thefollowing locations.Kler Lavandera(Calle 16 No 305; per kilogram M$10;h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat)Lavandera Antigua(Calle 57; per kilogram M$15;h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) Between Calles 12 and 14.

Medical ServicesIn an emergency, call one of the following.Cruz Roja(Red Cross;%815-2411; cnr Av Las Palmas &Ah Kim Pech) Some 3km northeast of downtown.Emergency (%066)Hospital Dr Manuel Campos (%811-1709; Av CircuitoBaluartes Norte) Between Calles 14 and 16. POPULATION: 754,730 AREA: 56,798 SQ KM

HIGHLIGHTS

Feel the burn as you haul yourself up the massive pyramid at Calakmul(p222), heavy-nosedtoucans soaring past toward their treetop jungle hideaways

Stroll through history as you cruise the colonial-

era streets of Campeche (p204), with theirpastel-hued edifices and arching ramparts

Stop to test out your Yucatec in Maya strong-

holds along the old route to Mrida, visiting

Hochob(p217) and the Chenes sites (p217)along the way

Find your little patch of foggy-bottomed

paradise on one of the regions lost beaches

around Playa Varadero(p219)

Head out for an afternoon birding mission on

the Laguna de Trminos(p219)

the Chenes SitesHochob &

TrminosLaguna de

Playa Varadero

Calakmul

Campeche

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MoneyCampeche has numerous banks with ATMs,open 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday, 9am to2pm Saturday.

PostCentral post office(cnr Av 16 de Septiembre & Calle 53;h8:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri)

Tourist InformationCoordinacin Municipal de Turismo (%811-3989;www.ayuntamientodecampeche.gob.mx; Calle 55 No 3;h9am-9pm) Next to the cathedral, the municipal tourist

office is the more useful of the two information centers.Secretara de Turismo(%816-6767; Plaza MochCouoh;h9am-9pm) Service is inconsistent here thoughstaff will gladly hand you some brochures.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIESPlaza PrincipalShaded by spreading carob trees, and ringedby tiled benches with broad footpaths radiat-ing from a belle poque kiosk, Campechesappealingly modest central square started lifein 1531 as a military camp. Over the years itbecame the focus of the towns civic, politicaland religious activities and remains the coreof public life. Campechanoscome here to chat,smooch, have their shoes shined or cool offwith a dish of ice cream after the heat of theday. The plaza is seen at its best on weekend

evenings, when its closed to traffic and con-certs are staged (see p211).The plaza is surrounded by suitably fine

buildings. On the northern (seaward) side

stands a replica of the old government center,now housing the modern Biblioteca de Campeche(State Library;h9am-2:30pm & 3-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat). The impressive porticoed buildingon the opposite side housed an earlier versionof the city hall; it is now occupied by shopsand restaurants.

CATEDRAL DE NUESTRA SEORA DE LA

PURSIMA CONCEPCINDominating the Plaza Principals east side isthe two-towered cathedral(admission free;h7am-noon & 4-6pm). The limestone structure has stoodon this spot for more than three centuries,and it still fills beyond capacity most Sundays.Statues of St Peter and St Paul occupy nichesin the baroque faade; the sober, single-naveinterior is lined with colonial-era paintings.

CENTRO CULTURAL CASA NMERO 6During the pre-revolutionary era, when themansion was occupied by an upper-classcampechano family, Nmero 6 (Calle 57 No 6; ad-

mission M$5;h9am-9pm)was a prestigious plazaaddress. Wandering the premises, youll get anidea of how the citys high society lived backthen. The front sitting room is furnished withCuban pieces of the period. Inside are exhibi-tion spaces and a good bookstore.

BaluartesAfter a particularly blistering pirate assault in1663 (see p207), the remaining inhabitants ofCampeche set about erecting protective wallsaround their city. Built largely by indigenouslabor with limestone extracted from nearbycaves, the barrier took more than 50 years to

complete. Stretching more than 2.5km aroundthe urban core and rising to a height of 8m,the hexagonal wall was linked by eight bul-warks. The seven that remain display a treas-ure trove of historical paraphernalia, artifactsand indigenous handicrafts. You can climbatop the bulwarks and stroll sections of thewall for sweeping views of the port.

Two main entrances connected the walledcompound with the outside world. The Puertadel Mar(Sea Gate; cnr Calles 8 & 59)provided accessfrom the sea, opening onto a wharf wheresmall craft delivered goods from ships an-chored further out. (The shallow waters werelater reclaimed so the gate is now severalblocks from the waterfront.) The Puerta deTierra(Land Gate; Calle 18; admission free;h9am-9pm),on the opposite side, was opened in 1732

as the principal ingress from the suburbs.It is now the venue for a sound-and-lightshow (p211).

Designed to protect the Puerta del Mar, theBaluarte de Nuestra Seora de la Soledadwas thelargest of the bastions completed in the late1600s. Appropriately, it was named for thepatron saint of sailors. This bulwark containsthe fascinating Museo de la Arquitectura Maya

(Calle 8; admission M$27, free Sun;h8am-7:30pm Tue-Sun),the one must-see museum in Campeche. Itprovides an excellent overview of the sitesaround Campeche state and the key archi-tectural styles associated with them. Five hallsdisplay stelae taken from various sites, ac-companied by graphic representations of theircarved inscriptions with brief commentariesin flawless English.

Completed in 1704 the last of the bul-warks to be built the Baluarte de Santiago(cnrCalles 8 & 49; admission M$10;h9am-9pm)houses theJardn Botnico Xmuch Haltn, a botanical gar-den with numerous endemic plants. Unless

youre really into plants, its not worth theentrance fee.Named after Spains King Carlos II, the

Baluarte de San Carloshouses the Museo de laCiudad(Calle 8; admission M$27;h8am-7:30pm Tue-Sun).This small but worthwhile museum chrono-logically illustrates the citys tempestuous his-tory via well-displayed objects: specimens ofdyewood, muskets, a figurehead from a shipsprow and the like. The dungeon downstairs al-ludes to the buildings use as a military prisonduring the 1700s.

Directly behind Iglesia de San Juan de Dios,the Baluarte de San Pedro(cnr Avs Circuito Este & Circuito

Baluartes Norte; admission free;h

9am-9pm) served apostpiracy defensive function when it repelleda punitive raid from Mrida in 1824. Carvedin stone above the entry is the symbol of SanPedro: two keys to heaven and the papal tiara.Climb the steep ramp to the roof and lookbetween the battlements to see San Juanscupola. Downstairs, the Museo y Galera de ArtePopular (Museum & Gallery of Folk Art; admission free;h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)displays beau-tiful indigenous handicrafts.

Once the primary defensive bastion for theadjacent Puerta de la Tierra, the Baluarte de SanFrancisco(Calle 18; admission to both San Francisco & San JuanM$20;h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)housesa small arms museum. Down the street is theBaluarte de San Juan(Calle 18; admission with San Franciscoticket free;h8am-7:30pm Tue-Sun), the smallest of the

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seven, containing a permanent exhibition onthe history of the bulwarks. And theBaluarte deSanta Rosa(cnr Calles 14 & Circuito Baluartes Sur; admissionfree;h10am-3pm & 6-9pm), a couple of blocks to thenorthwest, has Campeches art gallery.

Ex-Templo de San JosFaced with flamboyant blue-and-yellow tiles,the Ex-Templo de San Jos (former San Jos church; cnrCalles 10 & 63; admission M$15;h9am-3pm & 3:45-8:30pmTue-Sun)is a wonder to behold; note the light-house, complete with weather vane, atop theright spire. Built in the early 18th century byJesuits who ran it as an institute of higher

learning until they were booted out of Spanishdomains in 1767, it now serves as an exhibitionspace. It belongs to the Instituto Campechano,the university to which its attached.

Museo Arqueolgico de Campeche &Fuerte de San MiguelCampeches largest colonial fort, facing theGulf of Mexico some 4km southwest of thecity center, is now home to the excellent MuseoArqueolgico de Campeche (Campeche ArchaeologicalMuseum; admission M$34;h9am-7:30pm Tue-Sun). Hereyou can admire findings from the sites ofCalakmul and Edzn, and from Isla de Jaina,

an island north of town once used as a burialsite for Maya aristocracy.Stunning jade jewelry and exquisite vases,

masks and plates are thematically arranged

in 10 exhibit halls. The star attractions arethe jade burial masks from Calakmul. Alsodisplayed are stelae, seashell necklaces andclay figurines.

Equipped with a dry moat and workingdrawbridge, the fort itself is a thing of beauty.The roof deck, ringed by 20 cannons, affordswonderful harbor views.

Buses marked Lerma or Playa departfrom the market and travel counterclockwisearound the Circuito before heading downthe malecn. The access road to the fort is4km southwest of the Plaza Moch-Couoh.Hike 700m up the hill (bear left at the fork).Otherwise, take a taxi (M$35) or the tranva(trolley; see p208).

Fuerte Museo San Jos del AltoSan Miguels northern counterpart, built inthe late 18th century, sits atop the Cerro deBellavista. From the parapets you can seewhere the town ends and the mangroves begin.Cross a drawbridge over a moat to enter theneatly restored fortress. Inside, a museum(AvFrancisco Morazn; admission M$27, Sun free;h8am-7pmTue-Sun)illustrates the ports maritime historythrough ship models, weaponry and otherparaphernalia, including a beautiful ebony

rudder carved in the shape of a hound.To get there, catch a local, green Josefa,Bellavista or Morelos bus from the side ofthe market.

RIBALD TALES: THE MARAUDING PIRATES OF CAMPECHE

Where theres wealth, there are pirates. This was no less true in the 1500s as it is today. And

Campeche, which was a thriving chicle, timber and dyewood port in the mid-16th century, was

the wealthiest place around.

Such riches did not escape the notice of pirates, who first attacked Campeche only six years

after the towns founding. For two centuries, they terrorized the growing city. Ships were attacked,

the port was invaded, citizens robbed, women raped and buildings burned typical pirate stuff.

The bu ccaneers hall of s hame cou nted the infamous John Hawkins, Diego the M ulatto, Barbillas

and the notorious Pegleg (Pata de Palo) himself. In their most gruesome assault, in early 1663,the various pirate hordes set aside rivalries to converge as a single flotilla upon the city, mas-

sacring Campeches citizens.

This tragedy finally spurred the Spanish monarchy to take preventive action, but it was an other

five years before work on the 3.5m-thick ramparts began. By 1686 a 2.5km hexagon incorporating

eight strategically placed bastions surrounded the city. A segment of the ramparts extended out

to sea so that ships literally had to sail into a fortress to gain access to the city.

With Campeche nearly impregnable, pirates turned to other ports and ships at sea. In 1717

the brilliant naval strategist Felipe de Aranda began a campaign against the buccaneers, and

eventually made this area of the Gulf safe from piracy. Of course, all that wealth from chicle and

timber was being created using indigenous slaves, leading one to question: who were the real

pirates, anyway?

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y Maya (2km)Centro de Espaolde Campeche (2km);

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Mrida (toll road, 177km)

Parador Gastronmico

Universidad AutnomaSan Romn (350m);To Iglesia de

Miguel (3.5km);Fuerte de San

Las Maanitas (2km);To Clubs & Discos (1km);

Mrida (long route, 235km); Ciudad del Carmen (toll road, 237km)

Cenadura Portales (650m)San Francisco (650m);

To Plazuela de

Isla de Jaina (32km);Los Piratas/Estadio Nelson Barrera (3km);

de Cocteleros (2km);

To Plaza Cuatro de Octubre (1.2km);

Terminal (400m)To 2nd-class Bus

To Main Bus Terminal (2km); Airport (5.5km); Edzn (60km);

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23

45

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6

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INFORMATION1

544529

TRANSPORT

SHOPPING

ENTERTAINMENT

DRINKING

23

26

2827

2524

22212019

18

12

171615

1413

1110

EATING

4443

4241

4039383736

SLEEPING30

3534333231

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

52

53

51

5049

48

47

46

Central Post Office..................Coordinacin Municipal de Turismo................................Hospital Dr Manuel Campos....Inegi........................................

Kler Lavendera........................Lavandera Antigua..................Secretara de Turismo............... A3

A3

B4C3

C2

B2D3

B2Banco Santander Mexicano......Banamex ................................. C3

Sur Champotn Terminal................. C4Mundo Natural................................. B3Xtampak Tours................................. B3

Puerta de Tierra.............................(see 26)

Payless Car Rental..........................(see 35)Maya Rent a Car............................(see 34)Local Bus Stop..................................

Mercado Principal............................Bazar Artesanal.................................

Iguana Azul......................................Claustro del Instituto de Campeche..

Saln Rincon Colonial......................Lafitte's..........................................(see 34)La Casa Vieja....................................

Taquera Los Patitos.........................

Ex-Templo de San Jos.....................

Tranva de la Ciudad.........................Puerta del Mar..................................Puerta de Tierra................................

Pedro Sinz de Baranda Monument..Old Baseball Stadium........................Novia del Mar...................................Museo y Galera de Arte Pop ular.....Museo de la Ciudad.........................Museo de la Arquitectura Maya.......

Jardn Botnico Xmuch Haltn.......(see 13)Instituto Campechano......................

C1

C4

B3B3

B2B2

D4A3B2A3

A3

Pursma Concepcin......................Catedral de Nuestra Seora de la

Centro Cultural Casa Nmero 6........

Biblioteca de Campeche....................Baluarte de Santiago.........................Baluarte de Santa Rosa.....................Baluarte de San Pedro....................(see 22)Baluarte de San Juan.........................Baluarte de San Francisco.................Baluarte de San Carlos....................(see 21) Soledad......................................(see 20)Baluarte de Nuestra Seora de la

A4

A3B3C3

B2C2

B5C4

Mercado Principal...........................(see 52)Marganzo.........................................Lonchera Las Maanitas..................

Chef Color.......................................Caf La Parroquia.............................

Monkey Hostel.................................Hotel Reforma..................................Hotel Plaza Campeche.....................Hotel Maya Campeche.....................Hotel Lpez......................................

D2B3

C3C3

B3B3C2C4B3

Hotel del Paseo................................Hotel del Mar...................................Hotel Colonial..................................Hotel Castelmar................................Hotel Amrica...................................Hostal La Parroquia........................(see 41)Hostal del Pirata............................... C4

B3

A3B2C3

B3

D4

C4

C3

C1

B3

C4

B3

B3

Monument to the City Gates............

23

45

78

6

9

INFORMATION1

544529

TRANSPORT

SHOPPING

ENTERTAINMENT

DRINKING

23

26

2827

2524

22212019

18

12

171615

1413

1110

EATING

4443

4241

4039383736

SLEEPING30

3534333231

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

52

53

51

5049

48

47

46

Central Post Office..................Coordinacin Municipal de Turismo................................Hospital Dr Manuel Campos....Inegi........................................

Kler Lavendera........................Lavandera Antigua..................Secretara de Turismo............... A3

A3

B4C3

C2

B2D3

B2Banco Santander Mexicano......Banamex ................................. C3

Sur Champotn Terminal................. C4Mundo Natural................................. B3Xtampak Tours................................. B3

Puerta de Tierra.............................(see 26)

Payless Car Rental..........................(see 35)Maya Rent a Car............................(see 34)Local Bus Stop..................................

Mercado Principal............................Bazar Artesanal.................................

Iguana Azul......................................Claustro del Instituto de Campeche..

Saln Rincon Colonial......................Lafitte's..........................................(see 34)La Casa Vieja....................................

Taquera Los Patitos.........................

Ex-Templo de San Jos.....................

Tranva de la Ciudad.........................Puerta del Mar..................................Puerta de Tierra................................

Pedro Sinz de Baranda Monument..Old Baseball Stadium........................Novia del Mar...................................Museo y Galera de Arte Pop ular.....Museo de la Ciudad.........................Museo de la Arquitectura Maya.......

Jardn Botnico Xmuch Haltn.......(see 13)Instituto Campechano......................

C1

C4

B3B3

B2B2

D4A3B2A3

A3

Pursma Concepcin......................Catedral de Nuestra Seora de la

Centro Cultural Casa Nmero 6........

Biblioteca de Campeche....................Baluarte de Santiago.........................Baluarte de Santa Rosa.....................Baluarte de San Pedro....................(see 22)Baluarte de San Juan.........................Baluarte de San Francisco.................Baluarte de San Carlos....................(see 21) Soledad......................................(see 20)Baluarte de Nuestra Seora de la

A4

A3B3C3

B2C2

B5C4

Mercado Principal...........................(see 52)Marganzo.........................................Lonchera Las Maanitas..................

Chef Color.......................................Caf La Parroquia.............................

Monkey Hostel.................................Hotel Reforma..................................Hotel Plaza Campeche.....................Hotel Maya Campeche.....................Hotel Lpez......................................

D2B3

C3C3

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MalecnA popular path for joggers, cyclists, strollingfriends and cooing sweethearts, the malecn,Campeches waterfront promenade, makes abreezy sunrise ramble or sunset bike ride.

A series of monuments along the 2.5kmstretch allude to various personages and eventsin the citys history. Southwest of the PlazaMoch-Couoh stands a statue of Campeche

native Justo Sierra Mndez, a key player in themodernization of Mexicos educational system.Northeast up the malecnis a sculpturerepre-senting the citys two forts, San Miguel andSan Jos. In front of the Plaza Moch-Couohis a monumentof the walled citys four gates. Ablock past the Hotel del Mar is a monumentalsculpture of native son Pedro Sinz de Baranda,who played a key role in defeating the Spanishat their last stronghold in Veracruz, thus end-ing the War of Independence. Just beyond theCentro de Convenciones Campeche, the girlgazing out to sea is the Novia del Mar. Accordingto a poignant local legend, the campechanafell

in love with a foreign pirate and awaits his re-turn. About 1km further north, the Plaza Cuatrode Octubre(October 4 Plaza) commemoratesthe date of the citys founding, depicting thefateful meeting of a Maya cacique (chief, whowas evidently lost, since it took Montejo tofound the city), the conquistador Franciscode Montejo and a priest. At the malecnsnorthern end is the seafood restaurant com-plex known as the Parador Gastrnomico deCockteleros (p210).

While there are no real beaches to speakof in town, by the time you get down to LasMaanitas (p210), just over 2km to the south-

west, the water is clear enough for swimming.

COURSESUniversidad Autnoma de Campeche Centro deEspaol y Maya(CEM; etzna.uacam.mx/cem/principal.htm;Av Agustin Melgar), one block east of the malecn,offers four- to eight-week summer languagecourses. Homestays can be arranged. Drop byto sit in on classes or check the notice boardfor Spanish teachers.

TOURSMonkey Hostel, Hostal La Parroquia andHostal del Pirata will all arrange tours and/or shuttle services to the Maya sites. Hostaldel Pirata also offers kayaking tours of Islade Jaina and the Reserva de la Bisfera

Los Petenes (M$300 per person), as well astarpon-fishing expeditions.Tranva de la Ciudad (adult M$80, child under 10yrfree;hhourly 9am-1pm & 5-9pm) Three different toursby motorized tranvadepart from Calle 10 beside the PlazaPrincipal daily; all last about 45 minutes. On the sameschedule, the trolley called El Guapo goes to the Fuertede San Miguel or its twin on the north side of town, theFuerte de San Jos. (Note that the fort tours do not leave

time to visit the museums within them.) Buy tram ticketsand check schedules at the booth just inside the plazafrom the trolley stop.Xtampak Tours (%811-6473; xtampak_7@yahoo.com.mx; Calle 57 No 14;h8am-4pm & 5:30-8:30pm)Offers comprehensive city tours at 9am and 4pm daily(M$250 per person, four hours), as well as archaeologicaltours to Edzn (M$180), the Chenes sites (M$750) andeastern Campeche. You pay extra (M$700) for a bilingualguide, who can lead groups of up to seven people. Over-night packages are available to Calakmul and Ro Bec.

FESTIVALS & EVENTSCarnavalCampeche pulls out all the stops for Carnaval in

February, with at least a week of festivities leading up toSbado de Bando (Carnaval Saturday, date varies), wheneveryone dresses up in outrageous costumes and paradesdown the malecn. The official conclusion is a week later,when a pirate effigy is torched and hurled into the sea,followed by much revelry in front of the Concha Acstica(bandshell) in the Barrio de San Romn.Feria de San Romn September 14. This festival honorsthe beloved Cristo Negro (Black Christ) of the Iglesia de SanRomn. Fireworks and Ferris wheels take over the zone,

just southwest of the center, along with beauty contests,boxing matches and a music-and-dance competition thatbrings in traditional ensembles from around the peninsula.Da de Nuestra Seora de Guadalupe December 12.Pilgrimages from throughout the peninsula travel to theIglesia de Guadalupe, 1.5km east of the Plaza Principaland Mexicos second-most-visited shrine, next to theVirgin of Guadalupe.Festival del Centro HistricoHeld throughout Decem-ber with a jazz festival toward the end of the month.Coincides with Da de Nuestra Seora de Guadalupe onDecember 12.

SLEEPINGBudgetCampeches three hostels all offer laundryservices, free internet and complimentarybreakfast, plus bicycle rentals and tours ofarchaeological sites.

oMonkey Hostel (%811-6605; www.hostalcampeche.com; cnr Calles 10 & 57; dm M$80, r without bath-room M$200;i)You cant beat the view of the

plaza and cathedral from Campeches longest-established and most popular hostel. The in-ternational social scene is enhanced by cozycommon areas with bar, hammocks and well-worn sofas, and friendly bilingual staff. Thebeds are firm, but they dont have individualfans, which can make for a hot night.

Hostal del Pirata (%811-1757; piratehostel@hotmail.com; Calle 59 No 47; dm M$90, r with/without bathroom

M$230/210;i)A block from the Puerta deTierra, this Hostelling International (HI) affili-ate is ensconced in Campeches historic center,and the building itself is a 17th-century relic.Though it hasnt attained the Monkeys popu-larity, the Piratas neatly kept premises may ap-peal to more fastidious travelers. Occupying amodern annex, dorms and semiprivate roomsshare modest facilities with cramped showers.The beds border on mashed-potato firmness,but you get your own fan.

Hostal La Parroquia (%816-2530; www.hostalparroquia.com; Calle 55; dm M$90, d/q without bathroomM$200/300;i) Half a block from the Plaza

Principal, Campeches newest hostel residesin a magnificent late-1500s mansion. Roomswith original stone walls and exposed woodenbeams flank a grand hallway that opens onto apleasant patio with small kitchen and adjacentlawn for sunbathing. Of the three hostels,it offers the best complimentary breakfastscheme: fresh fruit, toast and coffee at thecaf next door.

Hotel Reforma(%816-4464; Calle 8 No 257; s M$120-250, d M$300;a)Just off the Plaza Principal, thisancient hotel in a 400-year-old building has allthe potential in the world. As is, its a ratherbizarre place. Enormous upstairs rooms have

modern tiled bathrooms, high ceilings andgreat balconies, if you can handle the trafficnoise. The threadbare sheets leave somethingto be desired. Rates vary with inclusion of TV,hot water and/or air-con; the complex schemeis posted over the reception desk.

Hotel Colonial(%816-2222; Calle 14 No 122; s M$170,d M$180-200;a)Time stands still within thisstubbornly low-tech establishment, a budgettravelers haven for six decades. Indeed, littleseems to have changed since it was occupiedby kings lieutenant Miguel de Castro in thecolonial era. Zealously maintained roomssurround a tranquil tiled courtyard withwicker-backed rockers and a central aljibe(rainwater cistern).

Hotel Maya Campeche (%816-8053, 800-561-8730; www.mayacampechehotel.com.mx; Calle 57 No 40;

s/d M$380/440;ai) This small, boutique-style hotel in the heart of the walled city hasa romantic, pseudo-colonial atmosphereand at-times taciturn staff. Fifteen roomsand painted wall motifs face a narrowcourtyard.

MidrangeHotel Amrica (%816-4576; www.hotelamerica

campeche.com; Calle 10 No 252; s/d/tr M$420/480/540;a)A large central hotel, the Amrica has animpressive interior, with arcaded corridorssurrounding a handsome courtyard wherea complimentary breakfast is served. The48 drab, all-business rooms clash with thecharm and warmth of the common areas,but are clean and simply utilitarian.oHotel Lpez (%/fax 816-3344; www.hotel

lopezcampeche.com; Calle 12 No 189; d/tr/q M$490/540/590;

as) This elegant hotel is the best buyin the midrange category, though it lacksthe charm of other colonial-styled digs.Comfortably appointed rooms open onto

art-deco balconies around oval courtyardsand exuberant gardens. Theres a lovelynew dip pool out back, where you can chillout while checking your emails with thewi-fi hookup.

Hotel del Paseo (%811-0100; www.hoteldelpaseo.com; Calle 8 No 215; s/d/tr/q M$500/570/680/770;a)Named for its proximity to the pleasantpaseo (promenade) that connects the his-toric center with the Barrio San Romn, thismodern option has an interior promenadetoo, with street lamps, shops and a bar, allbeneath your balcony.

Hotel Castelmar (%811-1204; www.castelmarhotel.com; Calle 61 No 2; s/d/ste M$750/850/1050;a)

Oncean army barracks, the Castelmar has beenoperating as a hotel for 100 years now. Arecent remodeling job upped the casualrefinement of this small hotel. Oversizedcrucifixes and other colonial-era-inspiredornaments add to the charm, as do theamazingly thick walls. Just try to scream nobody will hear you.

Top EndHotel Plaza Campeche (%811-9900; www.hotelplazacampeche.com; cnr Calle 10 & Circuito Baluartes; rM$890, junior ste M$2120;ais) Just outsidethe historic center on the lovely Parque delIV Centenario, the Plaza caters to businesstravelers. It aims for Euro elegance with fauxFrench furniture, a sumptuous dining room

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and attentive bellhops. The spacious roomshave soothing color schemes.

Hotel del Mar(%811-9191; www.delmarhotel.com.mx;Av Adolfo Ruiz Cortnez 51; r with city/sea view M$950/1320;

ais) The Miami-style Hotel del Mar,on the malecn,exudes luxury and a beachyglow. Rooms with sea views have balconies.Theres a popular downstairs bar.

EATINGTaquera Los Patitos (Calle 8 No 289; tortas & trancasM$6-14;h7:30am-3pm) Chow down with thelongshoremen at this friendly hole-in-the-wall, where overseer Doa Hilaria fills tortas(sandwiches in rolls) and trancas(baguettesstuffed with roast pork) with a variety ofscrumptious fillings, such as shark-and-eggsalad and salpicn de res(shredded beef salad).Dont miss the exotic fruit juices.

Lonchera Las Maanitas (Calle 49B No 3; snacks &soups M$9-25, mains M$70-120;h6pm-midnight Thu-Tue)At the Portales de San Martn, a block northof Avenida Circuito Baluartes Norte, this

place serving regional snacks under the ar-cades of the plaza is a popular gathering placefor families and friends. The festive mood isbuoyed by a steady stream ofpanuchos(tortil-las filled with black beans), tamales and bowlsof turkey soup.

Las Maanitas (cnr Avenidas Resurgimiento & LopezMateos; panuchos M$9, mains M$70-120;hnoon-1am)With great ocean views some 2km southwestof downtown, this place is perfect for sunsetcocktails or a casual lunch or dinner. It servesbasically the same menu as the city-centerlocation (Lonchera Las Maanitas), but theatmosphere burns two degrees hotter.

Mundo Natural(cnr Calles 8 & 61; juices M$18, salads

M$20;h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat;v) Thisopen-air natural foods bar opposite thePalacio de Gobierno prepares fresh juice com-bos, hefty salads and sandwichnes(very largedouble- or triple-decker sandwiches that aresliced into snack-sized sections).

Cenadura Portales (%811-1491; Calle 10, Portalesde San Francisco 86; trancas M$20, soups M$25;h6pm-midnight) A relaxed place outside the walls,alongside the delightful Plazuela de SanFrancisco in the barrio of the same name. Itspecializes in regional dishes. On warm eve-nings, an ice-cold goblet of coconut horchata(a rice-based drink) really hits the spot.

Chef Color (%811-4455; cnr Calles 55 & 12; full/halflunch platter M$25-40;h10am-6pm) This CentralAmericanstyle eatery serves up large plattersof toothsome fare from a steam table. The listofguisados(main courses) might include po-tato croquettes and Cuban-inspired ropa vieja

(old clothes, shredded beef in salsa) accom-panied by fried plantains, beans and rice.

Caf La Parroquia(%

816-2550; Calle 55 No 8; breakfastcombos M$30-40, lunch specials M$35;h24hr)Any time ofday or night your table awaits at this classiccoffee house with a dozen ceiling fans, attentivewaiters in white coats, and continuous Televisabroadcasts. Not just tourists but local geezers inguayaberas (short-sleeved sports shirts) hangout here for hours on end. In addition to thebreakfast packages and daily lunch specials(served 10:30am to 6pm), theres a full list of re-gional faves such aspollo en escabeche(chickenmarinated in vinaigrette-style sauce).

Marganzo (%813-8981; Calle 8 No 267; mainsM$40-150;h7am-11pm)OK, so we told you toavoid the tourist joints, but this touristy spotis worth its mustard. Very sweet waitressesstart you off with complimentary shreddedmanta ray, octopus salad, salsa, garlic creamand chips. From there, dig through the ex-tensive menu, which offers everything frominternational fare to a regional tasting menu(M$140). Theres live music and dances atnight, and a pretty decent wine list (this beingthe provinces and all).

DRINKINGLa Casa Vieja(%811-8016; Calle 10 No 319A;h8:30am-12:30am)Theres no better setting for an eveningcocktail than La Casa Viejas colonnaded bal-cony overlooking the Plaza Principal. Seekdinner elsewhere, however; the restaurant isaimed primarily at the tour-bus trade.

Saln Rincon Colonial(%816-8376; Calle 59 No 60;hnoon-8pm) With ceiling fans high over an

airy hall and a solid wood bar amply stockedwith rum, this Cuban-style drinking estab-lishment appropriately served as a locationfor Original Sin,a 2001 movie with AntonioBanderas that was set in Havana. Just acrossthe way from the Puerta de Tierra, the classicbar was until recently a male-only enclave.The botanas(drinking snacks) are exception-ally fine; you get a different selection witheach round.

Lafittes (%811-9191; www.delmarhotel.com.mx;Hotel del Mar, Av Ruiz Cortnes 51;htill 2am)Hotel delMars downstairs bar is one of Campechesmore popular nightspots. Waitstaff here dress

like pirates.

ENTERTAINMENTTheres invariably someone performing onthe Plaza Principal every Saturday and Sundayevening from around 6:30pm, be it a rock-and-roll band, pop-star impersonator, tradi-tional dance troupe or a folk trio. On Sunday,the Banda del Estado (State Band) kicks offthe program, performing Campeche classics,show music, marches and other rousing fare.Try to arrive early for a good seat.

Also on weekends, tables are set up from6pm to 10pm in front of the cathedral andlibrary for la lotera (a bingolike game;see above).

Puerta de Tierra (tickets M$50;h8pm Tue, Fri & Sat)Incidents from Campeches pirate past are

SKIP THE TOURIST TRAPS & DIG INTO TRADITIONAL CAMPECHANO CUISINE

Travelers who take thei r eati ng ser iously will find pl enty of good opti ons i n Campe che, bu t steer

clear of the numerous tourist-oriented restaurants, which generally serve dull, overpriced fare.

Such places are recognizable as theyre empty when not occupied by tour groups.

On Saturday and Sunday the best place to sample Campeche cuisine is the Plaza Principal.

Before sundown, stalls set up around the plaza to offer an impressive variety of home-cooked

fare at reasonable prices. You can sample regional specialties such as pibipollo (chicken tamalestraditionally cooked underground), brazo de reina (tamales with chopped chaya greens mixed

into the dough) and pan de cazn(layers of shark and tortillas laced with a tomato-based sauce),

plus various desserts and cold teas.

Though startli ngly rustic compared with Campeches spruced- up center, the main market,

Mercado Principal (Circuito de Baluartes Este;h7am-5pm), across the street from the Baluarte deSan Pedro, offers some terrific snacks. At the Calle 53 entrance, regional-style tamales are dis-

pensed from big pots in the morning. Inside, take a battered stool at Taquera El Amigo Carlos

Ruelas and order a tranca a baguette stuffed with lechn (roast pork) and an ice-cold glass

of agua de lima(sweet lemon drink). In the adjacent circular market building a number of cocina

economica(basic eatery) stalls ring the interior rotunda.

oParador Gastrnomico de Cockteleros(Av Pedro Sainz de Baranda; shrimp cocktails M$40-100,fish M$50-90;h9am-6:30pm),on the north end of the malecn, 2.5km from the Plaza Principal, isthe place to partake of the bountiful seafood netted daily from the Gulf. About 20 thatched-roof

restaurants all serve pretty much the same thing: shellfish cocktails and fried fish. Ask to see the

days catch and make your selection; a medium-sized fish goes for about M$50. Most places give

you free starters such as fried shrimp or crab legs.

LA LOTERA

Twenty-three, melons47, volcano 41, rocking chair78, rosetwo, dove.

Its Saturday night in Campeche, and the tables in front of the cathedral are already full for

the ritual game of la lotera, held every Saturday and Sunday evening from 6pm to 10pm. The

litany of icons is chanted through a cheap microphone by a woman in a huipil (colorfully em-

broidered tunic), as she picks up numbered balls from the spinner cage and places them upon

a panel of 90 pictures.

A bingo-like game of European origin that uses numbered images, la lotera has been played

on the peninsula since the 19th century. John L Stephens Incidents of Travel in Yucatan has agood description of the game as he observed it played at a fiesta in Mrida in 1841. The action

now may not be as heated as he describes, but the old folks can get pretty excited when one

of them finishes a row.

At a peso per card, most anyone can afford to play a card or four. Players usually mark the

images on their cards with bottle caps from a plastic container on the table. A variation on bingo

is that markers can be placed in a variety of patterns: in addition to the usual rows, players

can arrange their five markers in the form of a V, a pair of scissors, or several kinds of crosses.

The first person to form one of these patterns takes the pot, which can get pretty hefty as the

evening progresses.

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re-enacted several nights a week in the LandGate. Its a Disneyesque extravaganza withlots of cannon blasts and flashing lights. Thetale is told in four languages.

Universidad Autnoma de Campeche (Av AgustinMelgar) Has revolving art exhibits, plays andart-house movies (M$25) at the Cine TeatroUniversitario Joaqun Lanz.

Catch a free weekday concert, dance or

folklore exhibit at the Claustro del Instituto deCampeche (Calle 12).

NightclubsFor Campeches hottest nightlife, head 1kmsouth from the city center along the malecnpast the Torres del Cristal. Here youll f ind abunch of great bars, cafs and discos. Localsrecommend Margaritas House, popular withthe older karaoke set; the hip lounge Rooms;Caf Sol for an easy-going Friends night;and Millennium disco if you want to get alittle raucous.

Iguana Azul (%816-3978; Calle 55 No 11;h6pm-

2am Mon-Sat) Toward the weekend this casualrestaurant across from Caf La Parroquiahosts local cover bands and jazz combos inits colonial courtyard.

SportsLos Piratas (%816-6071; www.piratasdecampeche.com.mx; tickets M$50-80)Campeches Mexican BaseballLeague team plays every other week duringthe March-to-July season at the EstadioNelson Barrera on the north end of town.Tickets can be purchased at the old baseballstadium on Calle 57, across from the Baluartede Nuestra Seora de la Soledad.

SHOPPINGBazar Artesanal(Plaza Ah Kim Pech;h10am-10pm)Thestate-run Folk Art Bazaar, down by the malecnnear the Centro de Convenciones Campeche,offers one-stop shopping for regional crafts.One section of the market is reserved for dem-onstrations of traditional craft techniques.Prices are set no bargaining.

Mercado Principal(Av Circuito Baluartes Este;h7am-

5pm) Prowl around the main market and sur-vey the spices and herbs, exotic fruit, honeyand chilies. Bonetera Bazar Puebla has a goodselection of huipilesandguayaberas.

GETTING THERE & AWAYAirThe airport is 6km southeast of the center.Aeromxico (%823-4044, 800-021-4010) flies toMexico City at least twice daily.

BusCampeches main bus terminal (%816-2802; AvPatricio Trueba 237), usually called the ADO or

1st-class terminal, is about 2.5km south ofPlaza Principal via Avenida Central. Busesprovide 1st-class and deluxe service toMrida, Cancn, Chetumal (via Xpujil),Palenque, Veracruz and Mexico City, as wellas 2nd-class service to Sabancuy (M$75),Hecelchakn (M$23), Candelaria (M$114)and points in Tabasco.

The 2nd-class terminal (%816-2802; AvGobernadores 289), often referred to as the oldADO station, is 1.5km east of the MercadoPrincipal. Second-class buses to Hopelchn,Bolonchn, Xpujil and Bcal (M$35) departfrom here.

To get to the new terminal, catch any LasFlores, Solidaridad or Casa de Justicia busby the post office. To the 2nd-class terminal,catch a Terminal Sur or Ex-ADO bus fromthe same point.

The Sur Champotn terminal across fromthe Alameda has rural buses to Champotnand Edzn.

The destinations in the table (opposite) are

from the 1st-class terminal unless otherwisenoted.

Car & MotorcycleIf youre heading for either Edzn, the longroute to Mrida or the fast toll road goingsouth, take Calle 61 to Avenida Centraland follow signs for the airport and eitherEdzn or the cuota(toll road). For the non-toll route south, just head down the malecn.For the short route to Mrida go north onthe malecn.

Coming to Campeche from the south via thecuota,turn left at the roundabout signed for

the universidad,and follow that road straightto the coast. Turn right up the malecnandyou will arrive instantly oriented.

In addition to some outlets at the airport,several car-rental agencies can be founddowntown. Rates are generally higher thanin Mrida or Cancn.Maya Rent A Car(%811-9191; Hotel del Mar, Av RuizCortnez 51)Payless Car Rental(%816-4214; Hotel del Paseo,Calle 10 No 288, interior 3)

GETTING AROUNDLocal buses originate at the market or across

Avenida Circuito Baluartes from it and goat least partway around the Circuito beforeheading to their final destinations. The fareis M$4.50.

Taxis charge a set rate of M$25 (M$35 afterdark) for rides within the city; by the hourtheyre around M$100. Tickets for authorizedtaxis from the airport to the center (M$80) aresold from a booth in the terminal. To requesta taxi, call%815-5555 or%816-6666.

Consider renting a bicycle for a ride alongthe malecn or through the streets of theCentro Histrico. All of Campeches hostelsrent bicycles at reasonable rates.

Drivers should note that even-numberedstreets in the Centro Histrico take priority,as indicated by the red (stop) or black (go)arrows at every intersection.

CAMPECHE TO MRIDAVIA HIGHWAY 180The ruta corta (short route) is the fastestway between the two cities, and its theroute more traveled by buses. Hwy 261, thelonger alternative via Kabah and Uxmal, iscovered by buses out of Campeches 2nd-class terminal.

HECELCHAKN%996 / pop 9974Bicycle taxis with canvas canopies noise-lessly navigate the tranquil central plazasof Hecelchakn, a delightful village 60kmnortheast of Campeche that is known forits culinary pleasures and excellent smallmuseum. Hecelchakns inhabitants, whichinclude a Mennonite community, are pri-marily devoted to agriculture, while a feware employed in the clothing maquiladora(low-paying, for-export factory).

A tourist information office(%827-0071), insidethe Casa de Cultura on the left side of thechurch, opens up occasionally.

Dating from the 16th century, the Iglesia deSan Francisco de Asison the main plaza seemsmassive for a town this size. The formerFranciscan monastery is worth entering toadmire the wood-beam ceiling and strikingiconography of the altar, with flaming heartsflanking a crucifix.

The Museo Arqueolgico del Camino Real(admis-sion M$27;h9:30am-5:30pm Wed-Mon, 9:30am-4pm Tue),on the north corner of the plaza, contains asmall but compelling collection of ceramic

art excavated from Isla de Jaina, a tiny islanddue west of Hecelchakn that flourished as acommercial center during the 7th century.Portraying ballplayers, weavers, warriorsand priests, the extraordinary figurines ondisplay here paint a vivid portrait of ancientMaya life. Theres also a collection of stelaein the courtyard.

Residents of the capital customarily makethe trip up just for Hecelchakns famoussnacks. In the mornings, outside the church,little pavilionsserve up cochinita pibil(barbe-cued suckling pig wrapped in banana leaves)and relleno negro(turkey stuffed with chopped

pork and laced with a rich, dark chili sauce)in tacos or baguettes, along with horchata(arice-based drink) and agua de cebada(a barleybeverage served with a spoon).

BUS SERVICES FROM CAMPECHE

Destination Fare (M$) Duration (hr) Departures

Bolonchn de Rejn 50 3 5 daily from 2nd-class terminalCancn 340 7 7 ADO direct dailyChetumal via Xpujil 260 6 1 ADO at noon daily, buses from 2nd-class terminal

at 8:15am & 10pmCiudad del Carmen 120-160 3 ADO roughly hourly, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at noonHopelchn 37 1 hourly until 5pm from 2nd-class terminalMrida via Bcal 105-125 2 ADO approx every 30min, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at 6:30pmMrida via Uxmal 90-140 4 5 Sur from 2nd-class terminalMexico City 900-1060 17 6 ADO daily, 1 deluxe ADO GLPalenque 220-270 6 3 ADO daily, 1 OCC, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at 11:30pm

San Cristbal de Las Casas 360-410 9 1 OCC daily, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at 11:30pmVillahermosa 230-330 6 multiple ADO daily, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at 4:30pmXpujil 130-170 5 1 ADO at noon daily, 5 Sur from 2nd-class terminal

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Hotel Margarita (%827-0472; Calle 20 No 80; s/d/tr with fan M$120/140/160, with air-con M$210/250/270;

a), on the main drag about 200m from theplaza, is a family establishment no booze orfriends of guests allowed. Theres an internetcaf next door.

ATS buses from Campeches 2nd-classterminal stop here en route to Mrida everyhalf-hour till around 10pm (M$20, one hour).In addition, blue colectivos(shared vans) shut-tle passengers between Campeches MercadoPrincipal and Hecelchakns plaza every 15minutes for M$22.

BCALBcal, about 90km north of Campeche just be-fore you enter the state of Yucatn, is a centerof the Yucatns panama-hat trade. Aboutone-third of the adult population makes theirliving weaving jipijapas, as the soft, pliable

hats are known locally. The finest hats aredestined for export to connoisseurs in foreigncities. The tranquil town clearly identifies withits stock-in-trade, as is made obvious by thecenterpiece of its plaza.

For more on jipijapas, see boxed text(above). To find out where jipijapas arecrafted and sold in town, hail a bicycle taxi(M$10) on Bcals plaza and ask the rider forhis recommendation. The workshop of SenorValdemero, opposite the secundaria (highschool) about 1km south from the plaza, isone of numerous recommendable options.

In early May the Fiesta de Flor del Jipiis cel-

ebrated with dancing and bullfights.From Campeches 2nd-class terminal, ATSbuses bound for Mrida stop in Bcals mainplaza (M$45, two hours).

The rest of the route between here andMrida is covered in the Yucatn State chap-ter (see p166).

CAMPECHE TO MRIDAVIA HIGHWAY 261A perfect day trip from Campeche, or a nicebackroad drive on your way to Mrida, thisroute takes you past traditional Maya villagesto many of the states best archaeologicalsites. Its often referred to as the Ruta Chenes(Chenes Route), for the chenes (wells) thatgive the region its name. All of Campechesarchaeological sites are open daily from 8amto 5pm.

EDZN

If you only have the time or inclination tovisit just one archaeological site in northernCampeche, Edzn(%555-150-2591; admission M$37)should be your top pick. Get there early toavoid the crowds, and remember that Sundayis free for Mexican nationals, so the sitegets overcrowded.

Edzns massive complexes were built by ahighly stratified society that flourished fromapproximately 600 BC to the dawn of thecolonial era. During that period the peopleof Edzn built more than 20 complexes in amlange of architectural styles, installing aningenious network of water collection and

irrigation systems. After its demise in the15th century, the site remained unknownuntil its rediscovery by campesinos (agricul-tural workers) in 1906.

Edzn means House of the Itzes, in ref-erence to a predominant governing clan ofChontal Maya origin. Edzns rulers recordedsignificant events on stone stelae. Around 30stelae have been discovered adorning the sitesprincipal temples, a handful are on display un-derneath apalapa(thatched palm-leaf-roofedstructure) just beyond the ticket office.

A path from thepalapaleads about 400m

through vegetation and then through theAnexo de los Cuchillos beside the Plataforma delos Cuchillos(Platform of the Knives), a residen-tial complex highlighted by Puuc architecturalfeatures. The name is derived from an offeringof silica knives found within.

Crossing a sacb(stone-paved avenue), youarrive at the main attraction, the Plaza Principal.Measuring 160m long and 100m wide, thePlaza Principal is surrounded by temples. Onyour right as you enter from the north is theNohochn (Big House), a massive, elongatedstructure topped by four long halls likely usedfor administrative tasks, such as the collection

of tributes and the dispensation of justice.Across the plaza is the Gran Acrpolis, araised platform holding several structures,

including Edzns major temple, the 31m-highEdificio de los Cinco Pisos(Five-Story Building).The current structure is the last of four re-models and was done primarily in the Puucstyle. It rises five levels from its base to theroofcomb and contains many vaulted rooms.A great central staircase of 65 steps, some withwell-preserved glyphs along their bases, goesright to the top. Climbers are rewarded with

sweeping views of the whole complex andsurrounding jungle canopy.Southeast of Plaza Principal is the Templo

de Los Mascarones(Temple of the Masks), witha pair of reddish stucco masks underneath aprotectivepalapa.Personifying the gods of therising and setting sun, these extraordinarilywell-preserved faces display dental mutilation,crossed eyes and huge earrings, features as-sociated with the Maya aristocracy.

Theres a fairly tasteful sound-and-light show(M$110) Friday and Saturday nights beginningat 8pm.

Cabaas Ecoturisticas Usahasil(%981-829-4842;cabanas M$150)

, 1km north of the Edzn turnoffon Hwy 120 in Poblado No-Yaxche, is the onlyplace to stay near the ruins. A public-relations

BCALS UNDERGROUND DISCOVER THE ROOTS OF THE JIPIJAPA HAT

While on the surface Bcal may look like a somnolent Campeche town, underground are people

laboring away at the traditional craft of hat making. Called jipijapas by the inhabitants of Bcal,

the soft, pliable hats that constitute its principal industry have been woven by townsfolk from

the fibers of the huano palm tree since the mid-19th century, when the plants were imported

from Guatemala by a Catholic priest.

The sta lk of the p lant i s cut into s trands to make the fi bers; the qua lity of the h at depen ds on

the fineness of the cut. The work is done in humid limestone caves that provide just the right

atmosphere for shaping the fibers, keeping them moist and pliable. Theres at least one cave onevery block, generally reached by a hole in the ground in someones backyard. Though often

no bigger than a bedroom, the caves may be occupied by a half-dozen Maya-speaking weavers

at a time. Once exposed to the relatively dry air outside, the panama hat is surprisingly resilient

and resistant to crushing. Prices for the hats range from around M$200 for coarsely woven hats

to more than M$900 for very fine work.

(450m)To Exit

(400m)To Entrance

Los EstelasTemplo de

Sacb

RelievesEscalinata con

MascaronesTemplo de Los

NoroesteCinco Pisos

del Sur Pelota

Juego de Pelota la Luna

Suroeste

Puuc

Cuchillos

los Cuchillos

Pequea Acrpolis

Gran Acrpolis

Patio

Templo del

Temazcal Templo del

Casa de

Edificio de los

Templo de la

Plataforma Norte del

Juego deTemplo

Plaza Principal

Nohochn

Plataforma de

Anexo de los

EDZN 0 200 m (Approx)0 0.1 miles

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schlock would call it rustic We call it theonly place to stay in the area. There are a fewroadside stands serving food directly oppositethe Cabaas entrance.

Getting There & AwayFrom Campeche, dilapidated buses leavefrom outside the Sur Champotn terminal at7am and 11:15am, returning from the site at

1pm and 4pm (M$20, one hour). Most dropyou 200m from the site entrance; ask beforeboarding. Schedules vary, so check the daybefore you travel.

Xtampa k Tours (%981-811-6473; xtampak_7@yahoo.com.mx; Calle 57 No 14, Campeche;h8am-4pm &5:30-8:30pm)provides an hourly shuttle servicefrom Campeche to Edzn (M$180, minimumtwo passengers) as well as guided tours ofthe site.

Leaving the site by car, you can either gonorth on Hwy 120 to pick up Hwy 261 eastto Hopelchn, or alternatively head towardDzibalchn and the Chenes site of Hochob by

going south to Pich, then east to Chencoh, 54kmfrom Edzn over a decent but little-used road.

HOPELCHN%996 / pop 6500The municipal center for the Chenes region,Hopelchn (Maya for Place of the Five Wells)

makes a pleasant base for visiting the variousarchaeological sites in the vicinity while alsoproviding a glimpse of everyday life in a smallCampeche town.

A tourist information office(%822-0089; Calle 20;h8am-3pm)in the Casa de Cultura, two blocksnorth of the main plaza, is staffed by Englishspeakers. To get online, visit Cyber 23(Calle 23),a block west of the bus station.

On a typical morning here, Maya campes-inosand Mennonites congregate under box-shaped laurels as bicycle taxis glide past.Opposite the central plaza, the Parroquia deSan Antonio de Padua, dating from the 16th cen-tury, features an intricate retablo(altarpiece),with a gallery of saints and angels amid lav-ishly carved pillars. Herbalists, midwives andshamans practice traditional Maya medicineat the Consejo Local de Mdicos Indigenas(Colmich,Calle 8), five blocks east of the plaza.

Hotel Arcos (%100-8782; Calle 23 s/n; s/d/trM$130/190/260;a), next door to the bus ter-minal, is a convenient no-frills option. The

rooms are immaculately clean, and you canadd air-con and TV for M$100. You canalso sling your hammock from the hooks onthe wall.

For a good caldo de pollo(chicken soup),try the stalls on Plaza Chica, open morningsfrom 7am and evenings till 1am.

Getting There & AwayThe terminal is served by 2nd-class Surbuses, with daily departures to/arrivals fromCampeche (M$37, 1 hours, hourly), Mrida

via Bolonchn (M$70, 1 hours, f ive serv-ices), and Xpujil (M$90, three hours, one at8pm). In addition, blue colectivosrun continu-ously between Campeches 2nd-class terminal(M$35) and Hopelchn, stopping at villages

along the way.Drivers can strike southward to Dzibalchnand Xpujil, stopping along the way to check outthe Maya ruins at El Tabasqueo, Dzibilnocacand Hochob. Travelers heading for banklessXpujil: theres a Bancomer with ATM next tothe Palacio Municipal on the smaller plaza.Xpujil-bound drivers should fill up in town.

AROUND HOPELCHNTohcok is a walkable 3km northwest ofHopelchn. Of the 40-odd structures foundat this site(admission free), the only one that hasbeen significantly excavated displays features

of the Puuc and Chenes styles. The custodiancan point out a chultn(Maya undergroundcistern), one of around 45 in the zone.

Some of the most significant caves in the pe-ninsula are found 31km north of Hopelchn,shortly before you reach the town of Bolonchnde Rejn. The local Maya have long known ofthe existence of the Grutas de Xtacumbilxunaan(admission M$50;h10am-5pm Tue-Sun;c), a seriesof underground cenotes in this water-scarceregion. In 1844 the caves were discovered bythe intrepid John L Stephens and FrederickCatherwood, who depicted the Maya descend-ing an incredibly high rope-and-log staircase

to replenish their water supply. Today thecenote is dry but Xtacumbilxunaan (shtaa-koom-beel-shoo-nahn) is open for explora-tion and admiration of the vast caverns andincredible limestone formations within. Alight-and-sound extravaganza accompaniesthe tour; skip the headphones and verbal com-mentary in six languages (something aboutthe legend of the hidden lady for whom thecaves are named). While the lighting help-fully picks out some of the more spectacularstalactites and stalagmites, the soundtrackonly detracts from the experience. Instead,listen to the sounds of mot-mots echoing offthe walls as you descend.

Sur buses traveling between Hopelchn andMrida will drop you at the cave entrance beforeBolonchn (M$15, 25 minutes). In addition,

colectivosdepart for Bolonchn from the northside of Hopelchns plaza, passing nearby thecaves. Check with the driver for return times.

Hwy 261 continues north into Yucatnstate to Uxmal, with a side road leading tothe ruins along the Ruta Puuc.

CHENES SITESNortheastern Campeche state is dotted with

more than 30 sites in the distinct Chenes style,recognizable by the monster motifs arounddoorways in the center of long, low buildingsof three sections, and temples atop pyramidalbases. Most of the year youll have these sitesto yourself. The three small sites describedbelow make for an interesting single-day tripif you have your own vehicle or you can takea tour from Campeche with Xtampak Tours(%981-811-6473; xtampak_7@yahoo.com.mx; Calle 57 No14, Campeche;h8am-4pm & 5:30-8:30pm).

Supposedly named after a local landownerfrom Tabasco,El Tabasqueo(admission free;h8am-5pm)boasts a temple-palace (Estructura 1) witha striking monster-mouth doorway, flanked bystacks of eight Chac masks with hooked snouts.Estructura 2 is a solid freestanding tower,an oddity in Maya architecture. To reach ElTabasqueo, go 30km south from Hopelchn.Just beyond the village of Pakchn, theres aneasy-to-miss sign at a turnoff on the right; fol-low this rock-and-gravel road 2km to the site.

Approximately 60km south of Hopelchnnear the village of Chencoh, Hochob (admis-sion M$27;h8am-5pm), the place where corn isharvested, is among the most beautiful andterrifying of Chenes-style sites. Considereda classic example of the Chenes style, thePalacio Principal (Estructura 2, though sign-posted as Estructura 1) is on the north sideof the main plaza. Its faced with an elaboratedoorway representing Itzamn, lord creatorof the ancient Maya, as an open-jawed rat-tlesnake. Facing Estructura 2 across the plaza,Estructura 5 has a pair of raised temples oneither end of a long series of rooms; the better-preserved temple on the east side retains partof its perforated roofcomb.

To reach Hochob, turn right (south) about500m west of Dzibalchn and drive the 10kmto Chencoh, then the remaining 4km over apaved, though much deteriorated, road to thesite. The small complex stands on a platformat the top of a snaking trail of circular steps.

Though it only has one significant structure,Dzibilnocac (admission free;h8am-5pm)possesses an

THE MENNONITES OF CAMPECHE

Campeche is in the midst of a quiet invasion by an unlikely community the Mennonites. Seeing

them waiting in bus stations, hanging about the main plazas of villages, crowding pickup trucks

or sharing a caguamaof Sol (liter bottle of Mexican beer) in front of a store, you may wonder if

youve somehow stumbled onto the set of Little House on the Prairie . Clad in black coveralls and

long-sleeved flannel shirts in the midday heat, the men tower over their Maya neighbors. Thewomen wear dark floral-print dresses and straw hats with broad ribbons.

Tracing th eir ori gins to 16th-century Reformist G ermany, th e Mennon ites have inhabited some

northern Mexican states since the 1920s. Drawn by cheap land, they first migrated down to

Hopelchn, Campeche, in 1983 and since then have established agricultural communities around

Dzibalchn, Hecelchakn and Edzn. Once theyve settled in, the Mennonites work relentlessly,

growing corn, melons and other crops, raising cattle and producing cheese for the domestic

market. They live in campos(self-contained communities with their own schools and churches),

and speak among themselves in a form of Low German.

Mennonite men customarily fraternize and conduct business with the Mexicans and many

converse fluently in colloquial Spanish (the women only speak with their own). Though they are

generally accepted by the local community, some campechanos (residents of Campeche) have

expressed resentment at the Mennonite invasion, complaining that the Menonas buy ejido

(communal) lands for less than theyre worth and have the capital to purchase expensive farm

machinery while campechanoshave to scrape by with lesser means.

The film Luz Silenciosa (Silent Light) by Mexican director Carlos Reygadas looks at life in Mexicos

Mennonite communities. It won the coveted Jury Prize at Cannes in 2007.

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eerie grandeur that merits a visit. Unlike themany hilltop sites chosen for Chenes struc-tures, Dzibilnocac (big painted turtle is onetranslation) is on a flat plain, like a large openpark. As Stephens and Catherwood observedback in 1842, the many scattered hillocks inthe zone, still unexcavated today, attest to thepresence of a large city. The single clearly dis-cernible structure is A1, a palatial complexupon a 76m platform with a trio of raisedtemples atop rounded pyramidal bases. Thebest preserved of the three, on the east end, hasfantastically elaborate monster-mask reliefs oneach of its four sides and the typically piled-upChac masks on three of the four corners.

Dzibilnocac is located beside the village ofIturbide (also called Vicente Guerrero), 20kmnortheast of Dzibalchn. From Campeches2nd-class terminal, there are nine buses dailyto Iturbide via Hopelchn (M$60, three hours),but theres no place to stay here so youll needto make it back to Hopelchn by nightfall.

The rest of the route between here andMrida is covered in the Yucatn State chap-ter (see p167).

SOUTHWESTERN COASTThis lonely coast gets very little tourism.

Heading down from Campeche city you passsmall fishing villages and deserted white-sand beaches, finally hitting the Laguna de

Trminos, a vast mangrove-fringed lagoonhome to riots of migratory birds and a primesea-turtle nesting spot.

First-class ADO buses cover the three-hourjourney between Campeche city and Ciudaddel Carmen, while both ADO and 2nd-classATS buses service points in-between.

CHAMPOTNpop 27,325Champotn, at the mouth of the river ofthe same name, has great historical sig-nificance as the landing place of the firstSpanish exploratory expedition from Cuba,led by Francisco Hernndez de Crdoba, in1517. Probably seeking a source of water

along the river, the Spaniards were as-sailed by warriors under the command ofthe caciqueMoch Couoh, forcing them toretreat. Hernndez de Crdoba died shortlyafter his return to Cuba from wounds he re-ceived at Champotn, which from then onwas known as the Baha de la Mala Pelea(Bay of the Bad Fight).

Now considered a truck stop betweenCiudad del Carmen and Campeche,Champotn sustains itself mainly on fish-ing, and perhaps the best reason to stop is tosample its abundant seafood. Try CockteleraLas Brisas del Boxito (Av Colosio;h8am-6pm & 8pm-

1am), an open-air tent south of the town centerserving an outstanding sopa de mariscos(sea-food soup) packed with octopus, shrimp and

conch. Another good bet is the string of coctel-eras(seafood shacks, specializing in shellfishcocktails) under thatched roofs about 2kmnorth of town.

Two roads head south from Campeche toChampotn: a meandering coastal route (free)and a direct toll road (M$53).

From Champotn, Hwy 261 leads 84kmsouth to Escrcega.

CHAMPOTN TO SABANCUYFrom Champotn, Hwy 180 continues south-west along the coast. This sparsely developedstretch of seafront is fringed with usually de-serted beachesthat are ideal for shell-searchingexpeditions, pelican watching and an occa-sional dip in the shallow aquamarine waters.There are a few rest stops along the way, in-cluding at Playa Varadero, about 60km south ofChampotn, with cold beer and a few thatchedshelters suitable for hanging hammocks, aprivilege that will cost around M$5.

LAGUNA DE TRMINOSThe largest lagoon in the Gulf of Mexico area,the Laguna de Trminos comprises a net-work of estuaries, dunes, swamps and pondsthat together form a uniquely importantcoastal habitat.

Red, white and black mangroves fringe thelagoon, and the area is an important nestingground for six species of marine turtle andnumerous migratory birds. Encompassingnot only wildlife habitat but also the statessecond-largest city and Mexicos principaloil-production center, the lagoons ecosystemremains threatened by various environmental

dangers, and in 1994 it was designated a Floraand Fauna Protection Area. The areas fragileecosystem was dealt a heavy blow when oilfrom a damaged rig in the Gulf of Mexicocame ashore in October 2007, arriving atseveral beaches in Campeche and Tabasco.The extent of environmental damage fromthe 11,700-barrel spill was not known atpress time.

Hemmed in by a narrow strip of land thatis traversed by Hwy 180, the lagoon can beexplored from various points along the way.

Sabancuy

pop 6290One base for exploring the lagoon is Sabancuy,a truly picturesque fishing village on thelower side of an estuary that branches off the

lagoons northeastern end. Sabancuy is 2kmfrom the coast, across the estuary via twobridges. You enter onto the villages cute littlewaterfront plaza, the focus of activity.

Facing the estuary, 15km from town bymotorboat, are the extensive ruins of the oldHacienda de Tixchel, a cattle ranch and sugarplantation from the late colonial period. Theruins are maintained by Sabancuys fishermen,

who provide transport there. To hire a boat tothe hacienda (M$400), its best to reserve inadvance: phone Dr Jos de Jess Ambrosio Reyes (%982-825-0128) , or go to the Farmacia de Jess,one block up from the plaza on the right sideof the church.

About six blocks from the waterfront, theminimally managed Hotel Aguilar Salas(%982-731-5258; cnr Aldama & Manuel Lpez; r with/without air-conM$230/190;as)has a faded faade but mod-ern rooms inside with pretty tiled floors andwood shutters. Rooms in back, overlookingthe pool, are the best.

A pair of good seafood eateries can befound at Sabancuys beach, right across thehighway from the bridge. El Crucero(meals M$30-70;h8am-5pm), the humbler of the two, whipsup an exceptional caldo de pescado(fresh fishin a cilantro broth), as well as fried snapper ingarlic or chili sauce.

Sabancuy is easily reached by bus fromCampeche (M$75, two hours, five daily 1st-class ADO) or Ciudad del Carmen (M$50, 1hours, five daily ADO).

Sabancuy to Ciudad del CarmenAnother 39km down Hwy 180, at the thresholdof the Canal Grande where the Laguna de

Trminos drains into the sea, you reach IslaAguada, a primitive fishing community with agas station and an old lighthouse. Tiny man-grove islands dot the lagoon here, and birderscan arrange an excursion to the Isla de Pjaros,where thousands of herons, gulls and magnifi-cent frigate birds converge at sunset. Inquire atthe Comisara(%938-109-3983), near Parque BenitoJurez, to hire a motorboat out to the island; atwo-hour excursion for up to eight people costsM$800. Hotel Playa Punta Perla (%938-382-1063;r M$320;asc) faces a stretch of desertedwhite-sand beach on Isla Aguadas Gulf side.With cheerfully painted two-level blocks amidpalm-lined grounds, and fresh shrimp and oys-ters from the lagoon served under the shadeofpalapas,its the sort of place that fills up atEaster and stays empty the rest of the year.

TRADITIONAL HARVEST: THE SWEET HISTORY OF MAYA HONEY

The Yucatns flowers yield a sweet, mellifluou s harvest, and bees have held an exalted place

throughout its honeyed history. At the time of the conquest, records show that the Maya produced

vast amounts of honey and Yucatecan villages paid tribute to the Spanish in honey, which was

valued more for its curative properties than as a sweetener. Bees were important in the Maya

pantheon: bee motifs appear in the surviving Maya codices, and the image of Ah Mucenkab, god

of bees, is carved into the friezes of Chichn Itz, Tulum and Sayil.

Mexico remains the worlds No 4 producer of honey, and the nectar of the Yucatn is especially

coveted for its blend of flavors and aromas, a result of the diversity of the regions flowers. Manycampesinos(agricultural workers) keep bees to supplement their agricultural output. However, the

stingless variety known to the ancient Maya has long since been supplanted by European bees,

which in turn are being pushed aside by the more aggressive African bees, notorious among

handlers for their nasty sting.

One Maya womens cooperative in the village of Ich-Ek, near Hopelchn, wants to preserve

the ancient heritage. Koolel Kab(Women Who Work with Bees;%996-822-0073) produces honey withindigenous melipona bees, which take up residence in hollow trees. Using techniques much like

those of their ancestors, the women place sections of tree trunk under a shelter, capping each

end of the trunk with mud. An average trunk yields 12L of honey, which is marketed chiefly for

its medicinal properties as throat lozenges, eye drops, soaps and skin creams.

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From Isla Aguada, the 3.2km Puente LaUnidad (M$47) spans the strait for access toIsla del Carmen and Ciudad del Carmen, a46km drive further west.

CIUDAD DEL CARMEN%938 / pop 154,200Campeche states second-biggest city occupiesthe western end of a narrow island between the

Gulf of Mexico and the Laguna de Trminos.Though its self-proclaimed title, Pearl of theGulf, is open to dispute, Ciudad del Carmenis very much a bustling, prosperous seasidetown, with freighters anchored in the harborand salty breezes caressing the malecn.

With the discovery of oil in the 1980s, in-vestment poured in, the population swelled,and the 3.8km-long Puente Zacatal (ZacatalCauseway) was completed in 1994, linking thecity with the rest of Mexico.

Though Ciudad del Carmen rarely seesforeign tourists, it does have a renownedand colorful Carnaval celebration, whichmakes for a fabulous experience. Anotherexciting event is the Festival de Nuestra Seorade Carmen, which kicks off July 16 whenthe ports patron saint is taken on a cruisearound the harbor, and continues till theend of the month.

Orientation & InformationCiudad del Carmen takes up the westernpart of Isla del Carmen, with the centerof town at its western extremity and themain plaza and malecn facing the channelthat connects the lagoon to the Gulf. Nearthe southwestern corner of the island, thePuente Zacatal extends westward 3.8km

across the strait toward Tabasco.Cyber Caf Inbox (Calle 33 No 10; internet per hr M$10;h8am-9:30pm) Check email and make inexpensivelong-distance phone calls here.Municipal Tourism Office(%384-2413; Calle 20 s/n,cnr Calle 31;h8am-4pm) Small module inside the cityhall with a few brochures.

Sights & ActivitiesParque Zaragoza, the central plaza, has a hand-some 19th-century kiosk. On its north sideis the c 1856 Santuario de la Virgen del Carmen,which pays homage to the patron saint ofsailors. Vestiges of Carmens earlier pros-

perity remain in the 19th-century mansionsofchicle barons along Calles 22 and 24, goingsouth from the plaza.

Playa Norteon the Gulf of Mexico has shal-low green waters rolling in lazily to a flat,expansive beach with coarse sand. After theheat of the day, join the crowds promenadingthrough the plaza, buy a bag of enamoradas(cream-filled pastries) and enjoy the sunsetserenade as grackles settle into the huge lau-rels on the plaza.

SleepingRates tend to be higher here than elsewhereon the pPeninsula.

Hotel Zacarias (%382-0121; Calle 24 No 58; s/dM$210/270)Its right across from the cathedralon the main square, which means its a cinchto find this joint. The rooms are bare-bonesbut clean, and many have balconies overlook-ing the plaza, a nice way to pass a few hoursof people-watching.

Hotel Playa Dorado (%382-4450; Av Paseo del Mar 8;r M$310;as)At Playa del Norte, this olderlodging has a homey, well-kept feel and a largeswimming pool out back. Unfortunately, sincePemex erected offices between the propertyand the beachfront, the balconies have losttheir appeal.

Hotel Las Villas (%384-1154; Calle 28 No 116; s/dM$410/470;a)There are 10 rooms in this cutelittle hotel right off the west side of the plaza.The spacious rooms have large beds withbrand-new comforters and spick-and-spanbathrooms, perfect for your inner Don Limpio(Mr Clean). Go for an upstairs room to avoidthe noise. Theres a cozy caf upstairs.

EatingAt the foot of the Puente Zacatal, the zonecalled La Puntilla has a string of fine seafoodrestaurants.

La Fuente (%382-0666; Calle 20 No 203; tamalesM$13, snacks M$25;c) Almost meriting a visitto Carmen in itself, this classic waterfrontcaf is a busy gathering place for families anddomino players. Its an excellent spot to sam-ple regional snacks such as tamales torteados(tamales dyed orange by achiote seeds, servedwith red sauce and a bowl of red onions) orhugepibipollo(chicken tamales traditionallycooked underground).

El ltimo Recurso(%384-1275; Calle 28 No 118; setlunch M$40;h6am-9pm)Near the central plaza,this workingmans lunch hall has daily stick-

to-your-ribs specials, such as lentil potage(Monday) and pollo en pipian (chicken insquash-seed sauce, Saturday). Fire things up

with the house salsa habanera(habanero chilisalsa), served in covered jars.

Restaurante El Marino (%384-1583; Calle 20 No2; fish M$100-150;h10am-7pm) This large open-air hall affords terrific views of the bridgeas a backdrop for fresh snapper fillets orcrab, served in empanadas or whole withgarlic sauce.

Getting There & AwayInterjet(%01 800-011-2345; www.interjet.com.mx)hasflights to/from Toluca daily (except Saturday)for under M$500 one way.

Both 1st-class ADO and 2nd-class Sur busesuse Ciudad del Carmens modern terminal(%382-0680; Av Perifrica s/n), a 15-minute taxi ride(M$25, after dark M$30) east of the mainplaza. Some key destinations:Campeche(M$130 to M$160, three hours, hourly 1st-class ADO buses, one deluxe ADO-GL bus)Mrida(M$250 to M$290, five hours, 11 ADO buses, twoADO-GL buses)Mexico City(M$680 to M$820, 13 hours, six ADO

buses, two ADO-GL buses)Villahermosa (M$110 to M$170, three hours, an ADObus every 45 minutes until 11pm, four ADO-GL buses)

ATASTA PENINSULAWest of Ciudad del Carmen across the PuenteZacatal is this lushly tropical peninsula. Ascarcely visited ecological wonderland, itstretches along a thin strip between the Gulfand a network of small mangrove-fringed la-goons that feed into the Laguna de Trminos.Various waterfront seafood shacks preparecrab and shrimp pulled out of the lagoon.Atasta Mangle Tours(%938-286-7026), about 1km

east of the village of Atasta, offers two-hourboat excursions for up to eight people foraround M$700. Howler monkeys, manateesand river turtles may be spotted along the

journey through the estuarine waterway. Ifyou have your own kayak, Atasta MangleTours may take you to areas that make greatexploring. Youll need one of its guides toprevent you from getting lost.

ESCRCEGA TO XPUJILHwy 186 heads nearly due east across south-central Campeche state, climbing gradually

from east of the ugly truck-stop town ofEscrcega to a broad, jungly plateau anddescending again to finally reach Chetumal,

in Quintana Roo. The highway passes nearseveral fascinating Maya sites including his-

torically significant Calakmul and throughthe ecologically diverse and archaeologi-cally rich Reserva de la Bisfera Calakmul.The largest settlement on the road betweenEscrcega and Chetu